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Comments
I have a 2001 GTP and I have been having this problem like you had. Blower won't work unless on 5 and sometimes it takes 10-15 secs to come on.. hear a clicking under steering column, AUTO headlights have to be turned on manually at night, and I have also been having problems with my mileage computer screen going out related to this. Have you figured out the root of the problem? If so please let me know what I can do to get this fixed otherwise I am going to probably get charged over $100 for repairs.
thx
Problem: If both temp controls are set to the same temp in dual mode, or if a temp is set at the drivers control in single-control mode, the temperature of the air exiting from the drivers vents is substantially warmer than that exiting from the passenger vents.
Actions taken: Drivers blend door motor and the exterior temperature sensor have both been replaced with no improvement noted. The driver side blend door can be manually moved through its full travel with no resistance noted. Running the diagnostics program through the climate control panel shows no current codes.
Question: Any suggestions on how to resolve this problem will be greatly appreciated.
Ray
1. No OBD current codes are indicated when accessing the diagnostics
through the climate control panel. A history code of 105 shows because I
removed and replaced the driver-side blend door motor.
2. With the driver-side blend door motor removed I could detect no
binding when physically moving the blend door from full-heat to full-cold
position. However, when the blend door was physically moved to the full
cold position the temperature out of the driver-side vents was 40 degrees (the same as out of the passenger side) in single mode operation.
3. Changing the driver-side temperature control from full heat to full
cold positions appears to cause the driver-side blend door motor to move
through its full travel (that is, from the full heat index marking on the
motor to the full cold index marking). However, the driver-side outlet
temperature is approximately 15 degrees warmer than the passenger outlet
temperature when the temp control is in the max cold position.
4. Replacing the driver-side blend door motor and the exterior temp
sensor did not correct the problem.
It appears to me that for some reason the driver-side blend door is not
being moved to the full cold position when the motor is installed and the
temp control is set at max cold even though the motor appears to move to the
full-close index mark.
Is it possible the a/c & heater controller is commanding the blend-door
motor to a position just off the full cold position even though the motor
appears to be at the index mark?
Because of item 2. above, I am convinced the blend-door motor is not moving
the door to the full cold position even though the shaft position index on
the motor appears to indicate otherwise.
Is it possible to adjust the blend door shaft positionslightly so the motor
will definitely move the door to the full cold position when the temp
control is set to max cold?
Ray
Another small problem I have is that my automatic lights do not work all the time.. They wont work for like a month or so, then all of a sudden, one day they will work, and will continue to work for a few weeks or months, then out of the blue they will stop working agian...i tried replacing the headlight switch assembly just because it was cheap and i figured i didnt have anything to lose, but it didnt solve anything...anyone know what that one would be?
Has anyone ever replied to you with a solution to this problem??
THANX!! SuthrnGntlman
The next issue, is still with the blower. With the lights set to come on automatically like most cars are today, if the switch is off, the lights will come on. The second that you turn the blower switch to 1-4 the lights will go off, and only come back on by going to off or 5. Somehow this is all tied together. Any ideas from the experts on this panel. Thanks.
Just wondering if you ever found a resolution to this problem. I'm having the same problem with my 2000 GT. Thanks
Dave
As another side note, I'm wondering if it's worthwhile replacing the interior temperature sensor. I've already replaced the exterior ambient sensor, as that was way off; that is working fine now. Just trying to get my HVAC system back into original working order.
Thanks
Ray
My blower worked on the high speed also for a while, now it is dead, and it is cold in Boston. What was your solution for the problem? Thanks in advance.
Kevin
kejgib@comcast.net
I also had a car starter installed (a viper) and I thought that it was the problem because everything would work when I started the car with the remote, until I depressed the brake (which disengaged the remote starter) and then everything would die. So, I had it removed, and it still didn't fix the problem. So I scheduled an appointment with my local GM dealer to have it looked at.... Guess what happened.... The DAY I took it in, everything started to work properly.... just my luck. They kept it for two days trying to get it to act up, but nothing. After an $80 bill, no remote starter, and a big headache I am left with a working blower and HUD, but no guarantees that this spring, or when I get the car starter installed again that it will work properly still.
So anyway, I am very curious if you have a remote starter installed? That still may be the problem. Please let me know.
I've read all 197 post here and found a lot of good information, but haven't yet seen a post for my particularly problem.
I have a 2004 Grand Prix GT with only 40 K miles. About 9 mo ago I started having problems with the CCS fan not coming on, but no problems with AC or heating when it did blow. Most of the time it worked and when it didn't I found that just opening and closing the door would cause it to start working again (jarring a connection I presumed). Also, my wife who could reach under the console found that moving the wires leading into the console would sometimes work which I didn't understand since they don't lead to the CCS. As it worked most of the time, I (we) put up with it, but over time the problem kept getting more and more frequent.
Finally, last month the fan got to where it would not come on at all. So, figuring maybe a loose wire I took all panels off, but didn't find any loose wires (at least going to the motor and what I guess is a relay or resistor of some sort behind the motor and up against the firewall. I also check all the fuses under the hood and dash side panel and all were ok. So while exploring online we continued to drive the car.
Now all of a sudden it is working again and has been ok for at least 2 day now, so I can figure out what the H is going on, but obviously it must have something to do with the fan.
I should mention that the 2004 has a variable fan speed dial and not the 5 settings that are mentioned for other earlier model Grand Prixs, but I can count 13 click on the dial as I go from low to the highest setting. It's just that there are no numbers on the dial itself.
Before I go taking out the fan and replacing the resistor pack, I am hoping that someone can give me some suggestions as to what might be causing my problem that I could easily check out.
In addition to answering on this forum page, please forward my home address at jmole@charter, so that I not miss it if I don't get back to this page.
Thanks very much in advance.
John
jmole@charter.net
Thanks,
John
jmole@charter.net
My 2000 Grand Prix blows air out through upper, lower, and defrost vents when I have it set for full face. It isn't blowing as cold as usual either but I do hear the compressor turning on so I know the AC is actually working. I have changed out my climate controller and I still have the same problem. Is there a way to reset the controller or do you think the problem is elsewhere?? It used to switch from full face to all vents for just a little while and then it would switch back but now it won't switch to full face at all and it gets hot inside being from Florida. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, if I push the defrost button it does switch to full defrost and then when I switch back to full face it goes back to all three vents. It is not a controller issue since I have replaced that.
As for the actuators, they are located on each side of the air routing box. They have an index mark on them so you can see them rotating as you adjust the temperature control. If they move through the entire range as you rotate the temperature control, they are working correctly.
Thanks
Keith
Have you found out the problem? I'm having the same issue with my 2004 gtp some times you shut the hood and it turns on.
I found this out by tapping lightly on the resistor with the fan set to on, but when the fan was not working. After a few taps the fan will restart, but after a few days I have the problem again.
So, I took the resistor off (there are two plastic rivets holding it on which can be snapped by twisting the resistor). The resistor can be replaced with metal screws and there are two holes in the body of the resistor for this purpose.
My local auto parts dealer wanted $110 for the resistor so I decided to take it apart and see if the internals were burnt. Everything looked ok, but I found that there was a thermal compound (about consistency of modeling clay) on top of a small chip and which breaks apart when the two half of the casing are taken apart.
Thinking this might be analogous to the thermal grease used to ensure good heat transfer from the CPU to the cooling fins and fan, I repacked the material to ensure good contact with the chip and reinstalled it. This seemed to work ok most of the time, but I still have the problem intermittently.
By now, I'm getting tired of having to mess around with it and will be ordering a new resistor which I found at Autozone for $96.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-91tag?itemIdentifier=906413_16939_0_
My old resistor looks exactly like this one.
I found other sites that list the RU359 as a replacement for my grand prix for around $62, but it looks different.
See http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywo- rds=Standard+Motor+Products+RU359+Blower+Motor+Resistor&x=20&y=19
If you are adventurous and want to save a few bucks you could try it as a replacement, but I think I'm going to follow my mechanics advice and reinstall one that looks identical to the original.
Hope all this helps.
John
We have a 1997 Grand Prix (3.8l) that has an issue where the control for directing air flow does not change the actual air flow direction. It is stuck split between the defroster and floor, so it is tolerable, but I'd sure like to get it fixed for my wife. Does anyone know if these controls are vacuum operated and if that is where I should be looking, or if I am looking at replacing the entire control panel for this?
The fan control works fine, the temperature adjustment works fine, and the push buttons for A/C and rear defrost work fine, it is ONLY the adjustment for air flow that is not working.
Thanks in advance,
Mark in chilly Wisconsin.