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Pontiac Grand Prix Traction Control/STS/ABS

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  • lm04lm04 Posts: 2
    I have had the issue for months now. I have brought my car the the dealership where they could not diagnose the problem but offer a repair suggestion of $1000 plus to fix so I brought to another repair shop that finally got a reading off my car and said it was my sensor so I replaced both sensors but the problem still exists. I am amazed to see so many people have the same issue as I do. The 8 of VIN number is 41264723 and my car has $71K miles on it. I woudlliek to know if htere are any recalls on my car.

    Thank you
  • Good morning,
    At this time, you don't have any open recalls on your Grand Prix. Also, just for your own information, you do still have an Emissions Select Component Warranty that is good until 12/15/2012 or 80,142 MI, whichever comes first.

    I'm sorry to hear that the replacement of the sensors did not remedy the issue you're having with the traction control. When were you in at your dealership? We'd be happy to give them a call and follow up with them about your visit. Please send us an email with more information (include your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, a link to this post as my coworker Christina who answers incoming emails will need the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership).

    Best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • I am having the same problem with my 2004 grand am, I have spent over 800.00 on the brake system and i am still having the same problem, when my light doesn't come on, my brake peddle shakes, then goes all the way to the ground, then i hear a loud noise. But when the abs light comes on, i dont have a problem with the car.. Does anyone have any idea whats going on? I have taken the car to 3 different dealers
  • :cry: hi sorry to be asking this, but there seems to be a problem with my car.. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT and when it shifts down into overdrive, it drives fine, but when I give it just the slightest bit of gas it acts like it is running out of gas, but if i give it more gas to kick it out of overdrive it runs like a dream what could this be.. also my stereo has quit working, along with my ON*star thru the car itself, I can bypass the stereo speakers in the car and the radio works, but the onstar dont, any help would be greatly appriciated(spelling)
    :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:
  • tav19tav19 Posts: 1
    I replaced the harnesses for the speed sensors in both front wheel assemblies. This is a common fix and most garages will fix everything else, I.e. hubs, shafts, etc. before replacing these harnesses. All my ABS/traction contro/stability system issues disappeared as soon as the harnesses were replaced. Found the fix after much searching on the internet
  • davidt11davidt11 Posts: 1
    I have replaced the electronic brake control module on my 2004 grand prix GT with on from a 1999 grand prix se. Will that work or will I have to get a new one please let me know, thanks.
  • maddi24maddi24 Posts: 1
    My women has a 2000 grand prix, 3800 v6 and the LR (left rear) wss (wheel speed sensor) was not reading. i have replaced it and everything seemed to go well, but now the abs light doesnt go off. i have cleared the codes with my scanner and the low track light comes off then turns back off again. any ideas whats going on. ????
  • I have a 2002 Grand Prix GTP with the aftermentioned ABS light & TCS lights on. I searched for hours looking for a proper way of diagnosing this issue. Came upon this site, went though 17 pages, & no one has the proper way of diagnosing. Even the GM reps won't help you. They all say, send me your vin etc, etc. Even the dealers are hit & miss with the repair. People just don't know how to diagnose any more. If the scanner doesn't tell them exactly the problem, they don't have a clue. I gave up looking on the internet for the answer & decided to look for myself
    I am old school. It does not have to be difficult. It's nothing more than nuts, bolts & wires. It's not that hard. But you do need a digital multi meter to diagnose it.
    Each wheel has a AC gernerator that is used to tell the ABS brake module what that wheel is doing. These sensors are nothing more than just a coil of wires with an input & out put lead. Either they work properly, are open( broken wire) or are shorted to ground. Unplug each one & check the tresistance in them. If you have one that is different than the others----- youve found a problem Resistances values need to be 800-1600 ohms.
    Once you've confirmed the sensors are all good & the lights are still on, there are other issues. You need to check the wiring from each wheel sensor to the ABS module. Again very easy. Plug all the wheel sensors back in, & then unplug the main plug at the ABS module. Remeber each wheel has it's own set of 2 wires that tell the module what's going on.
    With the pin end of the plug facing you you want to check the wiring to each wheel. There are VERY small numbers moulded into the corners of the plug. Looking at the pin end of the plug the numbers start at 1 in the upper right side ending in 11 upper left side. The last row starts with 20 in the lower right & ends at 30 in the lower left.
    #2 & #3 pins Right rear wheel
    #4 & #5 Right front wheel
    #20 & #21 Left Front wheel
    #22 & #23 Left rear wheel.
    Again check the resistance for each wheel at these pins. They should all be very close to the values you got at the wheel sensors alone. If there is a reading that is out of place, then the problem is in the harness, now you have to find it, but at least you know which area to be looking for.
    If all your wheel sensors are good, & all your harnesses are good then you need to be looking at the ABS module itself. I'm sure theres a way of diagnosing this also WITHOUT a scanner ACCURATELY, but I didn't have to go that far because I found the issue in the left front wiring harness under the rad. A wire had broken. Repaired it, lights are out.
    If you have any questions, I'll be happy to try & help you out, so you won't get it royally from your friendly local GM dealer or corner garage that BOTH don't know how to diagnose something.
  • dlbuehlerdlbuehler Posts: 2
    Also make sure your post connection at the ABS control module is clean and no corrosion. I ran all the continuity tests and everything checked out. Was about ready to have the control module replaced when I noticed some corrosion in the bottom of the connection box on the ABS unit. Went to O'reilly's and for $7.95 bought a can of electrical connector cleaner. Scrapped lightly with a small screw driver and spraying down to remove the corrosion, let it all dry and then used dielectric grease on the pins. Put back together and so far so good. Thanks 'liteweight' for the trouble shooting info on the wires coming out of the ABS box or I would not have found this.
  • I had the same problem with my Grand Prix where the hub was replaced to fix the ABS/TCS warning light issue and both ABS and TCS engaging. The fix cost $760. My car is a 2007 Grand Prix with 75,000 miles on it. I did write GM about it in regards to compensation and they offered $175 in store credits. I've owned a 2006 Buick Ranier which was an absolute lemon. I also own 2011 Traverse (under warranty) that's having the same fuel guage problems that the Buick had. I've owned 15 GM vehicles over the course of 33 years and the Traverse and Grand Prix will be the last GMs I ever own.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    schatzee48,
    Thank you for your support for GM over the last few decades - it is certainly appreciated. I see that you mentioned a current vehicle concern (the fuel gauge on your Traverse) and wanted to check in to see how the repair progress was going. Has your dealership been able to resolve it or are they currently working on this for you?
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • fkesonfkeson Posts: 1
    Honestly, I don't have time to read all of this thread. Here is my issue:
    Just purchased this car with 95,200 miles on it. Rubbing noise coming from brake area, ABS wants to kick in when going at slow speeds and in the midst of making a turn, the Check ABS light is coming on and the car seems to be stalling.. It will crank fine but then the next time it wont and you can smell gas, like it is getting to much fuel... remember when the older cars would get flooded out? That smell.. I can't have my 17 year old driving a car that is potentially dangerous. WHAT IS THE PROB? Warranty is most likely not an option for us so repairs need to be accurately diagnosed and cost effective! Lastly, we have checked the wheel bearings and they seem fine.
    Thanks, Fairlyn :confuse: :mad:
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    Well I have the same problem as most of you with the ABS and Traction Control lights coming on.
    I was able to contact Christina at GM, who seems like a very helpful person, but unfortunately she could only offer me a contact for customer service here in Canada. I contacted them and they were absolutely no help at all. I did put a meter on the pins on the connector that connects to the EBC and I got very similar readings. So my next step is to take the readings at the wheel sensors.
    It's been too hot here lately so I will wait for a cooler day to jack the car up and remove the wheels to check the readings at the wheel sensors. don't really know what else to do.
    I have a friend with a scanner and of course no codes show up.
  • eddie71eddie71 Posts: 10
    The wire harness that the wheel speed sensor plugs into have a very high failure rate. I changed mine out a few weeks ago & solved my same issue. Harness was had from NAPA auto parts for around $35. I also seen the same part on Amazon. You need a scanner that can do "ABS" codes thats why you are not coming up with any code.
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    was that NAPA in the US or Canada? where did you splice the new cable in.

    Thanks for the help.
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Hello lightweight, i really appreciate your detailed explanation on how to check where the problem is. I managed to put a meter across the points as you described above but only on the connector for the module itself. All the readings were very close to each other so I'm thinking that even if there was a bad sensor it would have showed up on the meter? My problem is very intermittent so I'm not sure it would show up because the lights never stay on all the time. When they do come on once I shut the car off and re start it the lights are gone. This is why I really think it's a bad wire in the harness somewhere. I really have reservations taking it to a Dealer or even a Garage as they will just start changing parts and this could become very costly.
    Did you end up replacing the harness or did you just repair where you found the break in the wire? I'm thinking I will try and replace the left side harness as this seems to be the side that is causing the problem for most people. Just wondering what is involved in re routing the new harness? Looks like it could be quite a job? And where would I splice in the new harness? Probably close to the module just before the connector? If this don't work the only other option I see that makes sense to me is to pull the fuse for the ABS and run the car without ABS. Not sure if that will work either but I'm hoping someone here has tried?

    Thanks For The Help

    Al
  • eddie71eddie71 Posts: 10
    US Napa. Mine was the passenger side. Keep removing the cable & it will go into a large loom right behind the radiator. With your head on the ground looking up into the engine bay it is right in front of you. Leave some wire & cut it off there. The new cable comes with butt connectors but I chose to solder & heat shrink the connection.
  • eddie71eddie71 Posts: 10
    Replace the harness. not involved at all, 10 minute job. Follow old harness to end & cut off there leaving some to attach new harness. Very easy fix. Good luck
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    Thanks Eddie, looks like Napa here in Canada only have the one for the passenger side. I wonder if this will work on the drivers side maybe just different color wires? Another question, when I follow the old harness to the end will it not take me up to the control module? Or does it actually stop at the rad. and continue from there in another harness?

    Thanks Again
  • liteweightliteweight Posts: 4
    edited July 2012
    Hi Al
    Correct diagnosing has become a lost art in most stealerships, & garages today. The mechanics rely all too often on just replacing parts till they find the problem through trial & error (if they ever do). This is how they are trained today. The end result is the customer lands up flipping the bills on the mechanics quessing game for parts & labor replacing parts that don't require replacing.
    The customer relations hotline at corporate levels are a freakin joke. Their job is to nothing more than relay phone numbers to their internal network of dealers.
    Good to see you've taken the incentive into doing it yourself. The meter readings your getting are telling you there is contact in each circuit WHILE your testing, but remember all you need is a break in a wire that is making contact through a single strand of wire. What you'll need to do is flex the wires in the most common fail points, you'll see where they bend, while having an audible meter attached to that circuit. The most common areas of faults are in the front.
    I have access to a wiring diagram for these cars if your interested. Just gotta fiqure a way of sending it to you since I can't find a way of attaching a file here.
    Let me know

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    Thanks Liteweight, I'll let you know if I need the diagram. I'm in the mist of tracking down the harness now but looks like no stock up here at Napa so I'll have to order it. I had a quick look from underneath as Eddie mentioned but it looks like I need to remove the spash pan to see anything. I can see where all the harnesses meet from the top of the engin though. It's just in front of the rad., the engin side of the rad., it looks like I could splice it there but not sure there is enough room to do it properly?
  • brenfelb3brenfelb3 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that I just bought 4 months ago.... it's had nothing but problems since! Now the ABS/TCS light that was just coming off and on for a month or so, is on all the time now. It feels like the wheels are sticking when I turn. With so many people have the same issue (by the looks at this forum), why hasn't GM issued a recall? There's obviously a problem here!

    Thanks.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Good morning brenfelb3,

    I am unable to speak to the details of how product quality decisions (like recalls) are made. If you would like for us to look into the ABS/TCS concern you're currently having with your vehicle, please send us more information at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, contact information, the last 8 of your VIN, and the name of your dealership).

    Kind regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • brenfelb3
    Save yourself the aggrivation & money you will be pouring out of your pocket to a GM dealership & read post #163 & 176. I have yet to this date heard ANY POSITIVE responses from ANYONE who went the gm customer service route. Most are greeted with a huge bill & a car that is not repaired

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    edited July 2012
    I recieved the 2 cables last night. I installed the one on the passanger side this morning and decided to test the car with just one side done. After driving around a bit today everything seems OK. No warning lights.
    Just keeping my fingers crossed that it's all good now, pretty sure it is as the lights were coming on pretty steady the last few days.
    Thanks Liteweight and Eddie, I hopefully managed to repair this GM Defect for less than it would have cost me for a scan at the dealer.

    One Note for anyone else that is doing this, If you order the harnesses from Dorman the clips are larger than the OE so they wont fit. I had to salvage the clips from the old cable.

    Thanks Again guys
    Al
  • Glad it worked out for you Al. How did you seal your splice??? You want to keep moisture out of it, specially if subject to salt conditions.

    liteweight
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    I used the connectors that Dorman sent with the cables.
    Crimped both ends and then heat shrink to seal. Looks questionable but I think it should be OK. If I have problems with that side again I will solder and heat shrink both wires.
  • lm04lm04 Posts: 2
    Hello:

    I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix and have the same issues but I have no experience in auto repair and the last mechanic I went to replaced my Hub assembly as he said that is what the computer codes were saying they thought it was a bad sensor. This was not correct and I continue to have the issue. My question is do you think an inexperienced person can fix?
  • algp2005algp2005 Posts: 10
    Hmm, to be honest I think only you can answer that question. But why not jack up the car, remove the passenger side wheel and have a look to see if it's something you want to tackel yourself.
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