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Buick LeSabre Starting/Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • mistynd123mistynd123 Member Posts: 1
    recently i just bought a 93 buick lesabre and it has94,000 miles. I am having problems with it starting. and the check engine light comes on, and sometimes by putting it in nuetral will get it to start, but that doesnt always work. also by pushing it, then turning the ignition on it will start but not always. Also it will stop while i am driving it usually it will start right back up but not always. weve already had the fuel tank censor changed, and the fuel lines changed and theres still a problem.
    ive read online about alot of cars with the same problem but i cant find a solution.
    My husbands mom used to own another 93 lesabre also and has the same problems. any help would be appreciated
  • jlhe2ndjlhe2nd Member Posts: 4
    Have your mechanic test the computer. That's what was our ultimate problem, and because it was so intermittent, it mimicked other stuff. But make sure that they can return it if that isn't the problem. It's around 300 to replace. There was another part (see my post for what they looked at) that was bad, so it was the combination of the two.

    Best of luck, Clifford has gone to live with a new family, so I don't have him anymore.
  • Michael8087Michael8087 Member Posts: 4
    My Buick 1994, 179,000I was having the same problems it would start and you might get out some where the wont start I have tried the ignition switch 50 time then would start. Ma by start good for a few day then same problem. I was told to have new key made so at $21.45 it took care of the starting problem.

    I have heater problems. always have it will blow cold air then after while warm hot air then go right back to cold. I in stiled new thermostat cleaned out heater core and same problems. The fan works fine. I am about fed up with it see or trade.
  • nikkiro74nikkiro74 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 97 Buick LeSabre Custom that I bought a couple of months ago. It needed a new engine, and I had one installed shortly afterwards, new oil put in, the whole nine yards. It's been running fine up until a couple of days ago. Suddenly it started knocking and cutting off, the engine light won't go out, I bought new plugs and had them installed but the engine light still won't go out! What else could be wrong with my car? I checked the oil, and it has oil, it has water, so those are not the problem. Please help!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Do you have the automatic digital readout temperature control? It might be an actuator that's got a cracked gear on the heater box; the actuators are electric motors with gears that move the vanes inside the heater. They crack. Often it occurs when someone replaces a battery and disconnects the power for a while without turn the heater OFF while the key is ON so it "parks."

    How is your coolant level inside the radiator? My first guess would be an air bubble in the heater core. If the radiator is staying completely full... when the car is completely hot after driving a long time, run the motor up to 2500 for 10 seconds in neutral, repeat 4 more times. That is supposed to push air out of the heater.

    Also, sometimes people get an air bubble into the radiator so to fill completely, have someone run the motor at above idle while the cap is off and you'll see the level drop. When that happens fill the radiator full and put the cap back on. Then they can slow the motor back down.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >It needed a new engine,

    Go back to where you bought it. It must have had a warranty since it was new.

    My thought would be a sensor or something major has happened because of the knocking. If it's a spark knock that might be sensor; otherwise, it's a problem. It needs to be diagnosed and just putting parts on hoping is going to be expensive.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • rginscrginsc Member Posts: 1
    Help….I have a 2002 Buick LeSabre Custom with a 3.8 engine. After you have driven the car for a while and you stop and then try and start the car again it will not start. The lights come on but it will not turn over. If you let the car sit for about two hours the car will start. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    My first guess is a faulty starter relay or starter solenoid.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Check connections from battery to starter. I always tighten them to move them to make sure the corrosion is broken between contacts. Tighten the little contacts on the solenoid on the starter. Check the ground on the floor pan under the rear seat and tighten it.

    Another check is to use something like a light hammer or heavy screwdriver to tap the starter housing when it doesn't start. Sometimes this causes the solenoid contact to make connection through the damage or sticking. It verifies the starter is the problem. I got a rebuilt from a local AC/Delco rebuilder. I felt much better with that than getting a rebuilt from the competitive box stores where cheapest cost is best for them.

    The neighbor helping me with my older Buick even used a battery charger/jumper unit and directly connected to the post on the starter to verify that it wouldn't turn.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • cfd110cfd110 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 lesabre 6cyl. Car will start but when you drop it into gear it dies and won't start for awhile. Any idea what it could be? It will turn over but not catch.
  • cfd110cfd110 Member Posts: 3
    My 1991 will start, warm it up try to put it in gear and car dies. Then it will turn over but won't start. Any ideas as to what the problem is?3800 v6 engine
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    One possibility is that the solenoid that handles the transmission lockup is jammed.
  • luvmytoyzluvmytoyz Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I have an 02 Buick LeSabre Custom, 3.8l. with 65,000mi.,and not showing a code. The problem I'm having is once it gets up to operating temperature it has a tendency to stall. It will start again but cranks a few seconds and sometimes you have to feather the pedal to get it started. It starts right up when cold. Once in a while if turn the wheel all the way when backing out of the driveway it stalls, but that's when cold.
    If someone out there can help I'd appreciate it cause it's only getting worse.
    TY
  • 17thabn17thabn Member Posts: 10
    Check or replace fuel pressure regulator,then go to crankshaft positioning sensor,then the cam shaft sensor.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I would start with the fuel pump. It would be nice to drive it with a fuel pressure gauge connected and lying against the windshield so you can see the pressure. If it drops when the car gets ready to stall, it's your fuel pump. It's kind of young for a fuel pump; has it been driven lots with low fuel which is rumored to let the pumps run hotter?

    When it dies, turn the key off and on for a couple of seconds and listen to the sound of the pump. Repeat a couple of times to build up pressure. See if it start faster. The feathering could be fuel pressure. Also could be MAF sensor -- I believe I recall one person having that symptom. You can disconnect the MAF sensor. It also can be removed for cleaning--don't touch the wires buried inside the plastic. Just spray with MAF cleaner or use an artist's brush to dust them. Lots of MAFs have same part number; so if you have another GM with same part, you can switch the two for a while and see if the symptom moves.

    The fellow who lives next to me inherited his father's Monte Carlo. It has 65K on a 95 and fuel pump went out. It was his second car and he always kept a minimum of fuel in it.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • nikkiro74nikkiro74 Member Posts: 3
    My car cranks and then stops. It even cuts off while I'm driving whereas I throw it in neutral and crank it back up and will run, but here's the glitch:
    1. We took it to AutoZone and was told it could either be the vacuum line or the oxygen sensor. We fixed that problem.

    2. We tuned it up, new oil, new filter and everything, but it's still doing the same thing.

    3. We then told one technician at O'Reilly's what was going on and he said it might be the ignition coil. What is that, and what does it cost to fix?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Don't throw parts at the problem based on a counter person's ideas at a parts store. While they have lots of parts experience, they sell them; they don't diagnose. How many miles? What's been done to it?

    It can be crankshaft position sensor.

    It can be fuel pump. Try checking fuel pressure with a gauge while driving it. Some lose pressure as they heat up when running and cut out due to pressure dropping.

    It can be the ignition module that's under the coils. It's doubtful it's just one of the 3 coils; you'd have rough running when one isn't working up to par. You can try disconnecting the power cables to it and reconnecting them. If it stays off long enough, you can pull a spark plug wire and have a spare plug ready to put in it and lay on metal part of motor while someone cranks to see if you get a nice blue spark. Or just lay the plug wire there--it should give a good loud spark.

    It can be a vacuum line that has rotted or cracked. Check them all very carefully around the upper intake manifold. You can spray carburetor cleaner around the manifold and the vacuum lines while the motor is running. If there's a leak, when it sucks in the carb cleaner, the idle will change. Voila, you found a leak.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • luvmytoyzluvmytoyz Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the idea's. Took the vacuum hose off the FPR, there was fuel all over. Put the one my brother bought for his Monte Carlo and the Buick run fine.
    You think for as many years GM's been building these 3.8's they'de have them refined by now. As much as I hate to say it, at least the Japanese usually fix a problem when they find one.
    TY's Again
  • nikkiro74nikkiro74 Member Posts: 3
    It had almost 147K miles on it, before a new engine was installed 2 months ago, so the mileage is not on the motor. The car was running beautifully up until about 2 weeks ago, when it started doing these weird things.
  • 17thabn17thabn Member Posts: 10
    Glad I could help,the fpr's are the cheap ones GM put on them to get em out the
    door,they don't last long at all.The fuel pumps usually go out around 80,000 miles.
    Then the crankcase sensor!
  • folderqueenfolderqueen Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Buick LeSabre. The check engine light has been on for a while, and I was told that the MAF sensor needs replacing, but it would be o.k. to drive it for a while. This last week, the heater quit working, and it has been running hot (not in the red but once, but the gauge is a lot further to the right than it should be). Then the other day it started jerking and acting like it was going to die when I was driving, but it never did die. When I let it coast, it doesn't do that, but when I put my foot on the gas it does. I have added coolant twice even though it didn't look like it needed it, but I had been smelling coolant for a while when I turned the engine off. Could these all be related to the MAF sensor needing replacing?
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    It sounds like two separate problems to me--the coolant/heater/overheating problem sounds like a leaking heater core--feel the carpet in the front passenger floorboard to check for a leak.
  • folderqueenfolderqueen Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the information. I had someone stand behind the car while I started it, to look and see if anything was coming out of the tailpipe. He saw something clear come out for about 2 seconds when I pressed on the gas. When I put my hand by the tailpipe, my hand was damp, but it didn't have any odor, so not sure if that is something unusual or not.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The exhaust usually has CO2 and H2O in it. The water vapor will condense on your hand so that's normal. If you got a cloud of water vapor after the car sat for a few minutes that might mean there's coolant getting into the combustion chambers. You're not getting that.

    From what you post it sounds like you are not smelling the coolant smell inside the car coming from the heater blower air stream. The windshield is NOT clouding up when you drive the car with water vapor coming from the heater core seeping inside the car. So that's not happening.

    The coolant smell, based on what I believe you mean, is outside the car coming from the engine compartment after the car is shut off. When you drive the car, the temperature of the coolan increases and eventually builds up pressure in the cooling system. The radiator cap controls that pressure amount. The extra pressure enables the car to run higher than 212 deg. F. for cooling purposes.

    If you are smelling coolant after the car is shut off, that probably means a seep while the car is still pressurized. The high pressure relaxes after 10-15 minutes and the seep under the hood would stop.

    Do you see any coolant on the ground under the motor after the car has been driven, warmed up thoroughly, and then shut off?

    A water pump sometimes seeps when it's failing.

    There is a small plastic pipe about 3 inches long that turns 90 deg sideways that comes out of the side of the metal intake manifold above the water pump that sometimes can seep around either end.

    There is a possibility of a seep in the radiator or one of the rubber hoses, especially at the ends where they are clamped on. Sometmes the clamp is bad, sometimes, the hose.

    A worse case is that there might be a seepage inside the plastic upper intake manifold on top of the motor (after you take off the gray beauty cover). The replacement upper costs about $100 for the part.

    You don't say how many miles are on the car. If the DExcool antifreeze has never been changed, that might make a manifold leak more likely.

    What you need to watch is coolant level. When the car has cooled about 30 minutes or so, use a towel to remove the radiator cap and check coolant level inside the radiator. Fill it there, if needed. Keep the reservoir up to a mark for cold or where it is and mark it with a pencil when the car is cold so you can compare a few days later when the car is cold again if the car has used coolant. Always check inside the radiator to be sure it stays full.

    Take a flashlight and look all around the motor on the end where the serpentine belt is and the radiator and hoses for leaks.

    Let me know what you find.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • folderqueenfolderqueen Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the information also. The car has 130,000 miles and I did have the radiator flushed and filled when it had about 110,000 miles or so. I have been checking the radiator level frequently and making sure that I don't need to add any. I did add some twice this week, but not sure that it really needed it, but I did notice after the car was shut off that there was something dripping for a few minutes around where the radiator is. The most worrisome problem for me is the way that the car started acting like it was going to die when I drove it on Friday, but it never did. It has been difficult to start at times lately, mainly when it is hot outside, but I don't like the way that it feels when I am driving it (kind of jerking or hesitating) and I think I smell a smell when I turn the car off that shouldn't be there, so I'm taking it into the shop tomorrow and see what they can find. I just hope that it does not cost an exorbitant amount to get it fixed because then I don't know what I'm going to do. Besides this, the window on the passenger side in the front won't roll up, but that's the least of my worries right now.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The leak at radiator could be a hose connection or the radiator itself. If you saw coolant that may be your leak.

    The MAF sensor can cause strange symptoms. Often they show at idle and people remove the connector and start the motor and if it runs better, then the MAF may be to blame. The two fine wires can be cleaned with spray cleaners inside the MAF after removing it with two screws that are torx heads if I recall.

    I would check the Fuel Pressure REgulator on the front of top of the motor with small rubber vacuum hoses going to it about the starting. A few of those go bad and leak gasoline into the vacuum hose. So pulling off the vacuum hose and finding liquid gasoline inside is a bad sign that it has failed.

    The rough runniing and bad starting also can be the fuel pump in the tank has worn and lost pressure. That can lead to bad running, stalls, and restarts after a few miinutes. Some strange symptoms that are like other things as well. The fuel pump is accessed through a plate on the floor of the trunk behind the rear seat. It is not an easy job and requires skill and knowledge. The earlier fuel pumps had to be dropped under the car to get the out of the tank. At 130,000 you might be ready fora fuel pump. Rumor has it that if a car is run low on fuel often it wears the fuel pump and heats it up; neighbor had a 95 MonteCarlo go at 65,000 miles because he always ran it low as a second car that had been his dad's.

    Did anyone have the car connected to a scanner at an Advance Auto Parts of Autozone to see what codes it read? Don't buy parts based on that. Those are hints?

    The window regulators from a supplier for 00 and 01 were poorly made and fail often at a connection of wire to plastic slider. They are available repaired on the internet or Ebay where you send it in and in a few days they return it. You have to be able to take off the door panel to get it out of the door. They hold the glass up with something while the part's out.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • folderqueenfolderqueen Member Posts: 7
    Well, I took my car to the shop this morning and the verdict is that it has a blown head gasket. Will cost $1300 to repair. Right now I'm trying to decide if it is worth getting it fixed as I've heard that once one blows even if it's repaired, your car continues to have problems. But I just hate to get into another car payment when I just paid the car off 2 months ago. There's always something.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I'd take the car to another shop before I accept that diagnosis. You didn't say the shop found the right symptoms for head gasket rather than intake manifold leaking.

    Did you have bubbling into the reservoir from the hot exhaust gases being pushed into the coolant and escaping through the reservoir?

    Did they check in the radiator neck with a hydrocarbon sensor like used for emissions testing to verify exhaust gases were present in the coolant?

    A blown head gasket on a 3800 is _extremely_ rare, unlike many other cars.

    What is more common is for the intake manifold gaskets to leak or the upper plastic portion to break down where the hot egr gases go through and allow coolant to leak into the air intake that goes to the cylinders. That coolant being sucked in may be causing a miss, depending on how much is sucked in.

    Check the oil on the dipstick to see if it's milky looking. If so that's coolant getting into the oil through the lower gasket under the bottom intake which is metal.

    Again have a shop that knows 3800s check. I can lead you to many forums about the Bonnevilles, LeSabres, and other cars and blown head gasket is an extremely rare find. At worst have a dealer check the problem. You may have to pay to diagnose, but you don't have to have it fixed there.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Dude, check the year on the car. And ditch the personal attacks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    >at least the Japanese usually fix a problem when they find one.

    I think you're on the wrong tact here. Do you mean transmissions like in Hondas? I can give you the link to the Odyssey discussion specifically on transmission failures. Or the Accords? Or Civics? Maybe we could talk about brakes wearing out early and often on the rears of same brand.

    Or the shifting and vibration problems with the 6,4,3 VCM Accords. Some of them are bad. They have to use a radio sound to try to cancel out the noise. I don't have that problem in my 3800 in my full-sized Buicks.

    or talk about the Camry with the transmission software and design problem of their 2007 transmission in their V6s. They designed the shift controls inadequately and finally compensated by varying the software. The 4-cyl also had problems of some kind. People are still asking about the patch for the programming. Then there are the rattles. This is supposed to be the car that is the example for the US cars in a few people's minds. But there have been problems through Lexus, Avalon, and Camry with transmission and engine adaptation. Do some searches here on Edmunds. I believe brake wear at low mileage has also been meantioned.

    It pays to read the threads for the cars set out as examples--usually they aren't. One difference is that they have had more money to throw at problems out of profits than GM has had because of GM's high labor and management costs. That has hurt GM attempting to leave behind problematic 80s and 90s vehicles.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • buicksucksbuicksucks Member Posts: 2
    93 lasabre stalls when stopping but starts right back up...what could be causing this?
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    Lots of possibilities. One that comes to mind immediately is a defective solenoid on the lockup torque converter. Another is a defective fuel pump or a clogged fuel filter. When it's running, does it idle and accelerate smoothly, or does it jerk or stutter?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I agree with these possibilities.

    He could try putting the car in neutral when coming to a stop where it's most likely to stall and see if that avoids the stall.

    It also can be a weak fuel pump.

    It can be a crankshaft position sensor, but those usually give trouble at other times as well.

    It might be a MAF sensor. Those are easy to clean with a spray for MAF sensors or air intake cleaning. The little wires collect dirt. But those wires break easily. I spray and then touch the wires with the hairs of a camel hair artists brush.

    I very likely could be a sticking EGR valve. The connector at the EGR valve could be disconnected when it's likely to be stalling and see if that avoids the stall. The EGR could be sticking on adding EGR gases to the intake causing the stall. By the time the car is cranked the vibration has edged the EGR closed like it should be. Those took can be removed and cleaned, but don't get liquid cleaner up into the area where the control motors are.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • buicksucksbuicksucks Member Posts: 2
  • alex77alex77 Member Posts: 1
    The problem im having with my car is, the check engine light come on and off. when it on the car rides ruff.when it off it will ride fine for a while then it will cut off. someone told me it was the catlic converter, but that was taken off. what could it be?
  • sandyisandyi Member Posts: 2
    I just went out and bought new spark plugs and wires to put on for $100.00. I have put $4,000.00 into my car this month and like it perfect. I replace all bulbs and do some work on it so I figured I could do this. I have no idea where to start. Do you think I can do it? I am a 57 year old women who does get takin to the cleaners at the dealership all the time. I need to know what to pull. Thank you. Sandyi
  • sandyisandyi Member Posts: 2
    Never mind. Got them. Thank you very much .
  • sysanalystsysanalyst Member Posts: 2
    Hello all. Have a 2000 LeSabre Custom with 65K miles. Owned vehicle since new. Highway cruising at a steady 55 MPH steady speed, then accelerate to 70MPH, the engine bucks a bit, but will smooth out after a short time. No check engine light, no pending codes, fuel economy has decreased about 5 MPG. Now the replacement list; Intake Manifold, TPS, Plugs, Wires, Coils, EGR valve, Oxygen Sensor, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, MAP sensor, and Catalytic Converter (it was bad - the elements were loose). Cleaned MAF, cleaned Injectors (while Intake was being replaced). Checked fuel pressure; idle 45 PSI, idle with regulator hose off, 55 PSI, accelerating to 3500 RPM, 55 PSI. Compression check; all cylinders between 200 and 210 PSI - compression builds quickly. Engine oil changed at 3K mile intervals (Mobil 1 10W30) and drinks 1/2 quart between changes. Any ideas? Wish the PCM/ECM would give me a hint. Perhaps ignition module? Knock sensor? Please help me save a few bucks here and get this old ride back in shape. Thank you.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Sounds typical of wires or plugs. Your wires could be up to 10 years old, if the car were built in 1999. So that should be the first change. Use AC plugs and used AC wires or Belden OEM quality wires.

    You might check the wires with a grounded screwdriver moved over them while running to see if you attract a leaking spark. But I'd just replace the mess of them for $40 or so at NAPA with AAA discount or AC/Delco wires at other volume suppliers.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • sysanalystsysanalyst Member Posts: 2
    Already replaced wires, coils, plugs with AC Delco. No change. Leaning toward fuel injection/pump problems.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    The ESC unit under the coils might be at fault. Check and clean the connections to it.

    You've changed the EGR already.

    You might try driving with a fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield (duct tape) to see if something unusual is happening to the pressures at certain times. Fuel pumps can be fickle.

    Your handle is systems analyst. I presume you are computer literate. Consider buying the program and connectors for your laptop to follow what the computer and sensors are doing while driving when that occurs. Or someone you know may already have a setup. Or you can buy a Tech II.

    How did the spark plugs look that you removed? I hope you numbered each one and kept them... Were they white porcelain with slight grey tones on it?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • korfholekorfhole Member Posts: 1
    i was recenlty given a 95 lesabre that had a few problems. 1st was reapairing an oil leak from a bad oil sensor. now the car runs and drives great at first startup. the car will start right up and drive anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes. car has 105,000 miles. after it starts running bad and stalling, it is very difficult to keep the thing running. i finaly got it home tonight after dying maybe 6 times in about 4 blocks. after i got home a started it and it kept running but with a mis, making the car very shaky when in drive or reverse. i let it sit for a good hour or two and it started right up and ran fine. got it to auto zone but they couldnt check the codes. checked fuel regulator no gas in vac line. and ideas about when the car get hot?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    Are you saying the miss wasn't there before repairing the oil leak?

    Assuming it was, my first guess would be spark plugs and wires. It should have the correct AC/Delco plugs or NGK equivalent (NGK makes the Delco plugs I'm told).

    You can check to see if the wires give sparks with spraying water on them in the dark from a mister bottle for plants, e.g. Or run a well-insulated screwdriver along the wires and the weak spots will jump to the metal, but make sure you have one with a good insulating handle.

    Coils and the plate under them are another possibility. Coils break down when hot. Also they get corrosion on the contacts they sit down onto that are part of the ESC plate. If you can get a test the computer from a place that has the right cables... why didn't AutoZone get a test? is yours one of the 1.5 type connectors that require the right cable?

    Corrosion on the coils and plate under them or a coil breaking down might show if it gives a miss that's primarily on two cylinders served by a coil.

    BUT 1994 and 1995 H-bodies (Bonnevilles too) seem to have a higher failure ont he computer itself. The ragged running sounds like a neighbor's car that needed a new junkyard computer.

    But breaking down with higher temp sounds like a coil. If you like recycling yards, you might pick up replacement coils and try switching them in--but inspect yours first along with the connector at the end of the plate under them for good connections. Take it off and clean. it.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • holyhammerrholyhammerr Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93' Buick Lesabre it stalls on me while driving usually once to twice a day, and gradually got worse. Most of the time you could wait a few mins and start it right back up, but the last time it set over a half hour before it would start back up. It usually stalls while im slowing down, but the last time was while i was merging on the interstate. It drives smooth when it is running though, ive heard several possible things it could be but nothing from an acually mechanic, Anyone have any clue what is wrong with my car?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    There are several smaller things to check. Do not throw parts at the car.

    Because it stalls while slowing down, I would check the EGR. I don't recall if it's electric or vacuum on that year without checking an old factory service manual from my 93 I used to have (150 K miles-my wife made me trade it for another leSabre). If it is vacuum, pull off the vacuum hose, and plug it with a golf tee or a pencil or a wooden skewer stick from the kitchen. Then drive it a while. Dirt may be preventing the EGR from closing completely once in a while. The EGR doesn't work until the motor warms up; does it ever stall while the engine is less than full temp on the gauge? But EGR usually closes when the car shuts off completely. That gives a quick restart.

    Another is the MAF sensor. Do not replace with off brand. Rather get cleaner for air intake or MAF cleaner at store and spray the tiny wires to clean them. Do not touch them. I used a camel hair artists brush to clean while they were wet with the solvent.

    Or the crankshaft position sensor behind the harmonic balancer may be failing. Often they act up when hot. Splashing cold water on them if the car stalls will help them cool and the car starts. That's worth carrying a milk jug of water to test if it stalls again.Locate the sensor while the car's cool, then you'll know where to splash the water if it stalls. But crankshaft position sensors should fail just driving as well rather than only when slowing down.

    Also check connections on the end of the ESC under the coils. Someone reported a poor ground connection which occasionally failed. Pull the connector and clean and check all the contacts.

    Another wear item is the ignition switch contacts which are actually down on the top of the steering column near the base. It's operated by a rod from the switch at the top. The contacts inside wear and burn with use and years. The ignition contact may break contact while other contacts supplying power to other things stay connected. But you are saying that it doesn't restart fairly easily...

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • holyhammerrholyhammerr Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the advice, no the car only stalls while its warmed up a bit. It was confusing me because the check engine light never came on. I looked at it the other day and it sounds like there might be a vacume leak, not sure yet, but ill keep u posted.
  • smokenuryzsmokenuryz Member Posts: 1
    1992 Buick LeSabre serpentine belt broke, was replaced, now car won't start ~ OBD code 58, fuel enable circuit. Car never had remote keyless entry, owner has 1 door key and 1 ignition key (Passkey). How to reset circuit? Is there a procedure to follow if you don't have the remote transmitter? Thanks
  • ljam05ljam05 Member Posts: 1
    My son has a 97 LeSabre. Its starting to really rot out (Buffalo winters are brutal). Twice now, the car died while he was driving it. One time it was raining the other it was dry for a week. Both times it died, it wouldn't start. Everything worked except the power windows. All the lights, radio, blower, everything worked. The car cranked strong, just would fire. Both times we waited several hours and the car started right up and was fine. I checked all the fuses and cleaned the battery terminals. I'm at a loss when it comes to electrical problems. Anyone have any ideas?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    > The car cranked strong, just would fire.

    Did you mean, "...just would NOT fire?" If so, I'd starting thinking about corrosion from Buffalo salt and moisture. Check the connection on the front of the coil ignition control (the slab the coils mount on). There's a connector at the front that a few people have commented gives trouble especially the ground wire on it.

    If you could determine when it won't start if there is spark that would help. Pull off a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on the metal of the motor and see if you get spark while cranking.

    You _might_ have a crankshaft position sensor giving trouble. It controls giving a pulse to fire the plugs and injectors, but it should have a back up pulse it uses.

    You can see if the injectors are firing by touching one while cranking and feel the click as it squirts. Try it when the car's running so you know what it feels like--or you can disconnect the electric wire at one and put the ends of a 194 little running light bulb into the socket and watch the light flash when the injector is fired while cranking.

    But I'm guessing you need to check the positive battery cables. Cut back into the plastic connectors to see the copper wiring. Separate the two big cables which are clamped against each other by one bolt onto the batter. Look for corrosion between where there's a lead spacer. Those are replaceable. Check the other end of the cable from the positive that goes to the relay center on the firewall. It provides positive power to lots of relays and large fuses there. One person reported a bad wire at that end and replaced the whole thing for $40-50 if I recall. Probably could be repaired.

    Check the buss grounds that are under the carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. They are under the carpet at the door sill right where you feet come into the car with lots of snow and rain dripping on them. There can even be salt in the snow. The ground buss has electrical tape all around it making it look like a bundle until you open it.

    image

    image

    These are not my pictures but are from somewhere on the web. But they show the corrosion on the buss grounds.

    You might have a fuel pressure problem, but you need to have a pressure gauge to check that. Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    > The car cranked strong, just would fire.

    Did you mean, "...just would NOT fire?" If so, I'd starting thinking about corrosion from Buffalo salt and moisture. Check the connection on the front of the coil ignition control (the slab the coils mount on). There's a connector at the front that a few people have commented gives trouble especially the ground wire on it.

    If you could determine when it won't start if there is spark that would help. Pull off a plug wire and put an old spark plug in it and lay it on the metal of the motor and see if you get spark while cranking.

    You _might_ have a crankshaft position sensor giving trouble. It controls giving a pulse to fire the plugs and injectors, but it should have a back up pulse it uses.

    You can see if the injectors are firing by touching one while cranking and feel the click as it squirts. Try it when the car's running so you know what it feels like--or you can disconnect the electric wire at one and put the ends of a 194 little running light bulb into the socket and watch the light flash when the injector is fired while cranking.

    But I'm guessing you need to check the positive battery cables. Cut back into the plastic connectors to see the copper wiring. Separate the two big cables which are clamped against each other by one bolt onto the batter. Look for corrosion between where there's a lead spacer. Those are replaceable. Check the other end of the cable from the positive that goes to the relay center on the firewall. It provides positive power to lots of relays and large fuses there. One person reported a bad wire at that end and replaced the whole thing for $40-50 if I recall. Probably could be repaired.

    Check the buss grounds that are under the carpet on the driver's side and passenger side. They are under the carpet at the door sill right where you feet come into the car with lots of snow and rain dripping on them. There can even be salt in the snow. The ground buss has electrical tape all around it making it look like a bundle until you open it.

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/100_1930.jpg

    http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k110/imidazol97/bussbar.jpg

    These are not my pictures but are from somewhere on the web. But they show the corrosion on the buss grounds.

    You might have a fuel pressure problem, but you need to have a pressure gauge to check that. Has the fuel pump in the tank ever been replaced?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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