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Lincoln LS General Care & Maintenance
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I just did my 100K overhaul with new Bosch +2 Platinum plugs, fuel filter, cabin air, oil/filter change, tire rotation, changed all 4 rotors and brakes out inside of about 5 hours. What a marathon - but the car performs just a bit better.
Now - I've just got to fix the right rear window - as the little white plug must have come out because the window doesn't go down with the regulator and then will come crashing down. It also won't go back up the whole way. Ah - the only REAL problem I've had with this car...
Where is the fuel filter? I bought the fuel filter several months ago.
Joe
Craig
So - they were really reasonable. The pads however - I ordered the fronts from fastpartsnetwork and they were quite a bit.
The fuel filter is EASY to change. It's best to remove the front wheel - driver's side front. Then if you have mud flaps - remove that flap. Then on the bottom of the large plastic wheel well liner - near the rear edge and under the body are a couple of those darn clips that you need pliers to pull out the center. Then there is one in the back - straight in, and 2 on top. Then you have to kinda push the liner back and down to get it out. I believe a 5/16 or 8mm socket will loosen the bolt holding the filter. First carefully remove the white plastic clips (flat screw driver) and pry the hoses away from the filter. Then loosen the filter from the body and remove. The mount can be fun to remove and replace the filter - just a little patience!
Get ready to be bathed in gasoline! Its a $1.32 shower at least!
Hope that helps.
If you are doing the work yourself, also remove the caliper sliding pins, clean, lubricate, and reinstall. My lower left pin was frozen. I pulled back the rubber booth, sprayed some WD40 on it, let it sit 10 minutes, used a crescent wrench to rotate the pin, used C-clamp to push it in a little, and a screw driver and a mallet to pull it out. It was all rusted. Used sand paper and wired brush to clean both the pin and the guide hole.
I bought Brembo rotors for both front and rear. They were like $55 for front and $45 for rear each. These were made in Italy. The ones for my Explorer were made in Mexico. Front pads are Napa's cermic type about $50. NO BRAKE DUST!! I am very impressed. For rear, I bought Napa's $25 pads. I will see how well the rear pads stay dust free.
The LS has 112K miles on it and this was the first brake job.
Joe
Thanks,
Joe
Joe
I am replacing my caliper on my 01 LS and have a choice of Phenolic or metal piston in the caliper. I didnt' know they made phenolic pistons, and that would cure the piston corrosion problems if they are strong enough to live. Any one with any experience with this? Thanks.
Ah, I'll give it a shot -
"Vrrrroooo ohm -ohppfff bubbubbubbaaaa arggarrgg clickaclicka schploot"
Is that close?
As for the cause I'd say COPs or fuel pump.
Yeah, I should only have my own radio show with my brother!
akirby is usually right about these things, so check those out. Course if it's fuel line, cheapest possible is fuel filter. Other than that, I dunno. Good luck and thanks for havin sense of humor.
Seriously, you will probably need to have the engine scanned for any codes. Even if the check engine light doesn't come on, diagnostics can be done. Like Akirby, I would be suspicious of fuel pressure. That could be filter, fuel pressure regulator, or fuel pump. A bad COP could also cause the problem. They can stress test the COPS and pinpoint if they are the problem.
There are SO many things that can cause this, I wouldn't recommend just throwing parts at it. Mine had a problem last week and it was caused by an insect getting caught in the mass air flow sensor.
I'm thinking about getting an '02 Lincoln LS V8 from Carmax (Stock# 4308961 in Waukesha, WI for those who want to look it up). It has 57K miles on it, and it's $14,998.
I liked this car ever since it came out, but I've been reading reviews since I'm thinking about getting one, and they have definitely been very mixed. I've seen a lot of people saying they've had a lot of repair/maintenance issues, and that the car is expensive to maintain, in which case I don't know if I want to get it...
Also, I read that many improvements were made starting in '03, and that the '00-'02 LS V8s had some transmission problems...
I was just wondering if I could get some reviews from some actual owners...
Do you get a warranty from CarMax?
I have 53K miles on it and had the tranny rebuilt at 20K (under warranty), but tranny is acting up again at 53K.
Heated driver seat doesn't work, airbag light is on, lug nuts are annoying, paint has bubbled in a few spots... but the car is fun to drive. Would I buy another... maybe not, but compared to the cost of the comparable bimmer, these cars are a deal provided you like to work on cars.
Craig
What do you think you would choose between an '02 LS and an '02 Acura TL Type S?
LS is not a nimble car. My 2001 E430 at 3750 pounds feels like it is a 3200 pound car. The LS at same weight feels heavy.
The LS has an excellent driving position and highway manners. the seats are comfortable, both road and wind noise are low.
I think you can do better with the price. $14-15K seems high for a 02 LS V-8. Track a few LS's on E-bay to see what the going prices are and add $800-$1000 for shipping.
Don't feel bad if this LS slips away as there are tons of good used cars out there.
Joe
After reading Edmunds' long-term test of their '00 Lincoln LS (http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/LongTerm/articleId=44682#9), I'm not so sure anymore... They said they had a lot of problems, especially with the transmission... Have you guys read this? Is it valid? I haven't read anything nearly as bad about the '02 TL Type S as some of the things I have read about the first-gen LS... Granted, the long-term test was on an '00, and the one I'm looking at is an '02, but did they make any changes in that first generation?
The 00 was the very first model year and had some teething problems. The 02s were much, much better and even had a few more (unadvertised) hp due to a new airbox. You may have to replace the COPs and the valve cover gaskets plus the front sway bar. Some have had to replace front ball joints but not a lot.
It's not perfect but the handling more than makes up for a few repairs (yours may have already had those repairs). Do a panic stop from 70 and notice how it just squats down and stops - no nose dive at all.
He also gave me suggestions on a transmission service and replacing spark plugs. I'm holding off until next month for the spark plugs to give me a little breathing room.
All said and done, here's his estimate on the 1 day project:
90K Service - $625
Transmission Service - $199
Total Estimate - $825
Is that seemingly appropriate for the services I'm getting on my baby?
1 Inter-MED serv kit
1 Rad Flush & Treatment
1 Battery Pads
1 Fuel Injector Flush
1 Anti-Freeze
1 Element ASY Air Cleaner
1 Filter ASY - Fuel
2 Retainer - Quick Connect.
GBK Brake thickness OK Disc over 5MM Drum over 2MM
Inspect Air Filter - Fluids Under Hood
-Free 35 Multi Point Inspec
Initial Tire Inspection OK
Perform Transmission/Transaxle Flush with MOC machine
You should also have the brake fluid replaced if it's been in there more than 2-3 years. It's hygroscopic and absorbs water over time which can rust the brake system if left in.
There's a new stabilizer bar design so Ford will only sell you that plus bushings for it - about $700 I think. My mechanic got hold of some bushings he says are for the old design but that was 6 months ago and I havent had him put them in yet.
Supposedly the worn bushings are not a safety issue. But it's strange that they wont sell the old bushings. Strange and a BIG PAIN.