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Dodge-Plymouth Neon Routine Care & Maintenance

arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
edited April 2014 in Dodge
Was curious if anyone has a comparison on the
Champion RC9YC vs Autolite 3923 spark plug for a SOHC Neon?

Which plug makes the Neon more responsive?

Thanks :D

Comments

  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I have had three Neons. I stii have two, a 96 with 176,000 mile on the orignal engine. And a 04 sxt. In several attempts to get more HP or MPG the Champion plugs proved they were a better plug for the Neon. Good luck

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I have had three Neons. I still have two, a 96 with 176,000 mile on the orignal engine. And a 04 sxt. In several attempts to get more HP or MPG the Champion plugs proved they were a better plug for the Neon. Good luck

    Farout
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    I just put in a set of Autolite 3923's and my Neon is more responsive than when it had Champion RC9YC's in it. Perhaps my Champion's were a little worn after 13K? That's pretty low mileage for a set of plugs.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    As a rule i generally change plugs myself. I have changed then as early as 18,000 or the longest is our 2004 which has 34,000 on it now, and is still getting 29 to 31mpg. I most likely will change them by 36,000. The plugs are fairly easy to change, and it sure beats $55.00 at the dealer. Good luck.

    Farout
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    I did a little research on OEM spark plugs for Dodge/Chrysler products and it used to be Autolite. Why did they ever switch to Champion? I believe in the ABC's (Anything But Champion). They come gapped at .040 and the recommended gap is .035 so a little adjustment and they are fine. I agree with changing them yourself because one time I brought my car in for a tune up, the mechanic installed Bosch plugs (yuck). Car didn't like them.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    I have had Chrysler products from 1971 and have only seen Champion. I have had good service from them, I think I will stick with what the car was made for. Good Luck.

    Farout
  • moondoggy1moondoggy1 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had to change there timing belt on the 2.0 liter sohc engine .if so did you have trouble getting the crank balancer off.if so how did you do it? I`ve tried heating it up with a propaine bottle torch but I don`t think it was hot enough to do the job. any idea`s???? :):)
  • alix3alix3 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2001 plymouth neon, and i recently had an oil change and my car seemed to be working fine, but now my engine light comes on and i dont know what to do or why it does this. It use to come on before i had my oil changed and went away, and in the past went on for like a day and never came back on.
    can anyone help me? :)
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    Take your car to Autozone and have them pull the code up for your "check engine" light. They don't charge you for it. :D
  • missrubimissrubi Member Posts: 2
    Hi Everyone!
    New here and my 2000 Neon ES just ht 72K and is starting to have some minor issues. I just had 4 new tires put on (3rd set) and this time I was told that the factory settings "aren't there anymore" and I need to have 3 camber kits installed and "soon." So said the tire man. He said if I don't have these installed, it will wear the tires prematurely. As an aside, and I will be going back, since the tires and allignment, now when the car hits 60-65, the wheel shakes something fierce. Do I really need these camber kits? He wants $80 each just for the parts. If I do need them, I'll get them elsewhere and take them to my regular mechanic. He is good, fair and reasonable but usually keeps the car for a couple of days so I try to find out as much as possible before hand. He also just recently recommended new water pump and timing belt as preventative maintenance. Also, at 42K th eengine light started going and staying on and dealer said it needed 02 sensor, which they replaced. It was still under the extended warranty so it wasn't expensive. At 70K it went on again and stayed on. A couple of weeks later, I had the air filter replaced and the light went off. A month later it went on again. Then I had the battery replaced and it went off for a couple of weeks. Back on again 2 weeks later. I saw some posts re: 02 sensors and faulty warnings. I know this is a lot, but I like my car and am in no hurry for another car payment. So any advice is helpful. I am on the road a lot and except for many dents (not due to my driving) it has run pretty well. I get regular oil changes and tune ups.
    Thanks for reading!
  • miss_grn_eyzmiss_grn_eyz Member Posts: 1
    i dont understand why my car is over heating. i bought it form a used car dealer ship, they are a new company. it is a 1997 plymouth neon. the first week i had the car it began over heating. there was water shooting out of the over flow tank. the dealers mechanic is looking at it, they put a new thermistat on it, sitll over heating. they ruled out head gasket because the oil is perfect. what is going on? does anyone have any thoughts? thanks
  • illinidadillinidad Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to work on my son's 99 neon sport, on which he has added a ground effects package. Does anyone know a safe jacking point for a floor jack?
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    illinidad: I saw the body shop lift our 2004 Neon with one jack, just about one foot injust even with each front tire. The back was done from the back about the same way. I know this is not all it could be, but maybe it will help a little.

    Farout
  • illinidadillinidad Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I found the points you mentioned. Not the most ideal, but they will have to do
  • josortojosorto Member Posts: 4
    I am a owner of a Plymouth neon 2000, and i want to know if i can use regular gasoline in my car?
  • josortojosorto Member Posts: 4
    Can anybody tell me if i can use regular gasoline in my plymouth neon 2000??
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    Do you have an owners manual? I would imagine it would have that info.
  • josortojosorto Member Posts: 4
    The problem is that i dont have the owners manual, i was looking in the internet and i cant find the answer, thats why i make the question. I'm from Honduras, the cars only use Premium Gasoline here (dont know why), and this gasoline type is expensive here ($4.20 per galon), i want to save some money. Thats why i need to know if i can use regular in my Neon. :cry:
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    You might try the Chrysler site for owners. Perhaps you can order or download a manual.

    http://www.chrysler.com/owners/index.html
  • tridurvitridurvi Member Posts: 4
    I drive a 2002 Dodge Neon (2.0L) and the owner's manual says to use 87 octane.
  • iyz408iyz408 Member Posts: 5
    Im not sure if you still have this problem but mine does the exact same thing. I put a new water pump in it and did all the usual to correct this problem but it still overheats!!!I have a 1995 NEON with 100,000 miles on it.I(f you find a solution to the problem please let me know.Thanxs :lemon:
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Your thermostst is sitcking or is stuck! Easy to replace should cost about $30. to $40 at the dealer done for you.

    farout
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Member Posts: 253
    Borrow a heat temp gun off someone and check the inlet hose and outlet hose to your radiator. The temperature difference should be 10 to 15 deg F. when the engine is at operating temperature. If the temp difference is greater then 20 Deg F the radiator "may" be defective. It also could be a flow problem, but you stated you changed the water pump. Did you also replace the thermostat at the same time. You can check the thermostat two ways. Either remove it and place it in a pan of water. Heat the water up with a thermometer testing the water temperature while waiting for the thermostat to open. The temperature should be around 185 degs F. It should also be stamped on the thermostat. Or take the heat gun and let the engine warm up and check the temp just before and after the thermostat. Two inches either side is ok. With the thermostat closed the temp difference should be great. With it open it should be about the same, maybe two deg different. But you should definitly notice the temp at which the before and after temps become the same. That is the temp at which the thermostat opened. And make sure the cooling fan is coming on when it is supposed to. It should be about when the radiator temp hits 210 deg when the is A/C off. If the A/C is on the fan should always be on. Good luck. I have 2002 neon SXT. It is the best little car I ever bought.
  • dgjokadgjoka Member Posts: 1
    My brother in law is having a REALLY difficult time trying to get access to the water pump, does anyone know of how to do get to it. Its a 2000 dodge neon. Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
  • iyz408iyz408 Member Posts: 5
    I had to do the same thing to my 1995 neon and I had no choice but to take it to a shop. They had to lift the motor up in order to get to my water pump. :confuse:
  • arcadefreak36arcadefreak36 Member Posts: 49
    As answered in the previous response. I had brought my 99 in for a timing belt change and the water pump is included in the change and when doing so I had a broken motor mount. So in plain english unless you have an engine hoist you'll need to bring it in to a shop. :)
  • josortojosorto Member Posts: 4
  • neely2005neely2005 Member Posts: 70
    I have a 2002 Neon and the Owners Manual says to ONLY use Regular (87 Octane) Gasoline. I asked my mechanic @ the Chrysler dealership about this and he said that it is because the computer is only caliberated for 87 octane as anything with a Higher Octane Burns Hotter.
  • justfishing2justfishing2 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 99 Neon with 75,000mi. It idles rough when started but smooths out after running few minutes. It has new plugs and wires. No codes. Oh its a 2L DOHC
  • dmartinezdmartinez Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Plymouth Neon, automatic, DOHC engine with 86,000miles currently on it. I got it used about 3 years ago with about 60,000miles on it. I know the car was beat up a little by the previous owner, since the previous owner was my sister. The maintance on the other hand was kept up to date, my dad changing everything when it was needed, oil every 3,000miles, etc. Well have three years of owning the car and taking car of it like it was my baby, things started to go wrong. First started with slight problems with my transmission slipping and over reving. Then in June 2006, i was driving on the highway when my service engine soon light flashed and then the whole car just stut down. I got it to the side of the road where i shut the car off, waited ten minutes, then tried it again. The car wouldnt do anything. I got out of the car to call my dad when i noticed antifreeze all over the road. My dad then came and had my car towed. We later learned that my water pump had busted causing a chain reaction problem. Basically, my timing belt had been shredded to pieces causing me to have 3 out of 4 cylinders bend. After alot of searching and with not alot of money to work with, i decided to have them replace the heads. My car seemed fine after it was fixed. Then about 3 or 4 months later, my service engine soon light turned on again. I got worried, by my friend told me that its probably just my O2 sensor. Then about a month or 2 later, my transmission starts to slip real bad and i started to get unexplainable squeeks from my front end and noises like a belt was wet but only on cold mornings when i used the heater. Then about a couple days ago, my car's battery light turned on and it became hard to steer. I immediately went home, where my dad told me to check to see if all my belts were on. When i did i noticed that my powersteering belt was off. Im a little upset because this is my first car ever and all these problems seem to be happening at the worst times. I planned on taking my car with me when me and my husband move to CO but it seems like my car will never make it. Can anyone tell me what might have made all these problems happen and are they connected to one another? I know that neons are prone to problems, but is this an isolated problem or what? Can anyone tell me the real reason my service engine soon light is on? Can it be because of the heads being redone? Is it worth fixing it everytime it breaks or should i consider getting a new one? Please help!
  • redpathredpath Member Posts: 3
    I too have bought this particular car too. It's worth the work to it as it is very good on gas and well sorta sporty yet great for a first family kind of car. I have found I have had little problems here and there. Nothing I would get rid of the car over. The power steering belt might just have been an over sight of a machanic. Most cars the belts are in sync with the charging of your battery through the alternator. If one belt is off or even rubs itself off you could have had you battery light come on.
    If you look for transmission fluid at your local automotive store they usually have some substances their that will greatly improve the slippage. of your transmission. Mine sounded awful one day and I was severely short on funds to pay for a rebuild of the transmission. Here I am and it's been just over a year and no notice of it as a problem. But if it even starts to seem like it's slipping I get this stuff for it. It only costs about $5.00 and I get it usally about every two months. I do drive my car alot to work and back too. Maybe you can check into it and save some major bucks. It seems to me it just has more to do with fluids in the transmission than actual wearing down of the parts. Hope this helps.P.S. I do all the minor work on my Neon and my hhusband doesn't touch it. Get yourself a Haines book for your car too it will help you learn better. I have to read it three times before I start the work to make double sure I know what I need to do before doing it. You will feel better about doing it yourself too. RedPath
  • dmartinezdmartinez Member Posts: 3
  • taztang68taztang68 Member Posts: 2
    I just had the fuel service done, and an overall inspection of our 96 Neon highline, and when I got it back, it almost felt like I had 4-wheel drive on it when I hit the brakes (brakes shuddered when held down.) Started being noisy, but didn't/don't squeel, it's more like a "rough road" kinda sound. (front brakes got hot, but weren't smelling)
    Today, it started to make the godawfullest noise, first only when I hit the brakes, later just when the wheels were turning, like it was rubbing metal to metal, and it didn't feel like I had ANY breaks when I got it home.............. Any suggestions I can take to the dealership tomorrow (other than some I can't print, and probably shouldn't tell them about)?

    Thanks!
  • alkijimalkijim Member Posts: 6
  • alkijimalkijim Member Posts: 6
    How in the heck do I get the timing belt cover off? The bolts to the motor mount are so long they won's come out so the timing belt cover can be removed.
  • mcmanusmcmanus Member Posts: 121
    Just "inherited" this car from stepson for his brother's eventual use with $118,000 miles on it. I don't have an owner's manual, service records, and just vague accounts of what service might have been done on it. The car doesn't get run routinely and so I had to recently replace the battery. The only other real problem with the car is the A/C barely works. This is my first experience with a Chrysler product and know nothing about the local dealership.

    My questions: What's on schedule to be done? Roughly how long do these cars run before major issues? What would you recommend having done?

    thanks
  • rojo4rojo4 Member Posts: 1
    I am in the process of completing the timing belt replacement on my 2000 neon. The removal of the balancer was one of the first challenges as I did not think mine was going to ever come off either.. You will need a 3 arm gear puller. The first one I used was too big and would keep slipping off the balancer. The second one I used looks too small to do the job but it fit correctly and worked fine.There is suppose to be a special tool to place in the crankshaft to protect the threads.Some people use the balancer bolt but I had no luck with that. I made my own out of a bolt slightly smaller diameter than the one that holds the balancer on. Cut the head off and grind down the threads on the bolt so it won't damage the threads in the crank. It should bottom out in the crank, cut to length about even with the balancer face ( aprox. 4") . You will attach the puller on the inside part of the balancer , where it is about 21/2 " dia..You will see the "slots" where the puller arms should go.Tighten as much as possible. If it does not loosen, tap the puller with a hammer about 10 times. Tighten again....repeat this process until it loosens. You might want to tap gently on the face of the balancer pryor to using the puller. Just be carful not to mushroom the bolt hole. This should work for you. Just be aware this is a tough, tedious undertaking as you will find you will need a couple of specific tools and working space is TIGHT.( be sure to have a 3/8 drive 15mm socket, a long 3/8 extension and swivel... Be prepared to buy additional parts which will be expensive ...belt tensioner assembly and serpintine belt pulley assembly, also replace water pump while you are in there. I plan on posting a more detailed account on my experience soon. along with ways to save BIG $$$.
  • lucinda9973lucinda9973 Member Posts: 4
    Does anyone know if it is the serpintine or the timming belt?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    timing belts don't squeal----if it did you'd be in big trouble (squealing means slipping).

    You might need to tighten up whatever belt is making noise and if it is glazed (polished and smooth on the interior surface of the belt) you need to replace it right away--because it will continue to slip and encourage over-tightening.
  • scrubsjimscrubsjim Member Posts: 2
    after finding oil in my spark plug shafts more in 1 & 2, i bought the kit and a Haynes book....GO haynes!! and got to work, I am not mechanically inclined,,,,,to qoute "Bones McCoy " I'm a Nurse not a Mechanic.
  • lakeg41lakeg41 Member Posts: 9
    THIS INFO IS VERY LATE FOR YOU ,BUT MAYBE SOMEONE MAY GET SOMETHING FROM THIS . I FOUND THAT IN ORDER TO CHANGE TIMING BELT AND WATER PUMP (IT IS FOOLISH NOT TO BOTH AT SAME TIME) YOU DO NEED TO RAISE THE ENGINE . THIS VERY SIMPLE TO DO IF YOU HAVE A GARAGE TYPE OF FLOOR JACK. YOU MUST USE A BLOCK OF WOOD ON JACK & THEN JACK UP THE ENGINE AT THE OIL PAN . BEFORE YOU DO THIS HOWEVER YOU MUST LOOSEN THE MOTOR MOUNT BOLTS .THERE IS A BOLT ON THE UPPER MOUNT WHICH IS ABOUT 6 " LONG AND CANNOT BE REMOVED UNTIL THE ENGINE IS RAISED ,YOU MUST LOOSEN BEFORE THE ENGINE IS RAISED HOWEVER . THIS TRICK HELPED ME TO DO THE TIMG BELT ON MY 2000 NEON AND MY WIFES PT CRUISER . THEY ARE SIMILAR BUT THE PT IS A LOT HARDER TO ACCESS WORK AREA .THE BEST BET IS TO EITHER BUY A REPAIR MANUAL FROM HAUNES OR CHILTON ,OR JUST GO THE LIBRARY FOR ONE . THE BOOKS WILL BE A GREAT HELP . JOB WILL TAKE THE AVERAGE PERSON ABOUT 4 - 5 HOURS . ACCORDING TO A SHOP MANUAL 2.5 ,WHICH I FIND NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE !!
  • akjefferyakjeffery Member Posts: 9
    Okay every one I need help on this one. First of does the heating and cooling have anything to do with my emmisions?
    Second off my check engine light is on and I have been told that it is a heating and cooling sensor. I can not find this sensor that they are talking about any one have any ideas?? I have checked all the fuses inside the car and they are good. :confuse: :confuse:
  • okko1okko1 Member Posts: 327
    what is the code of the check engine light? if you have that most public libraries have access to mitchel component locator. you can also find a number of repair manuals. :)
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