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Thanks
I have a 99 neon coupe sport that does the same thing as your symptoms describe. I have learned in the past that when you replace a thermostat it best to get it from the dealership of any make of car. I done that but I dont know why a OEM thermostat works better. I have flushed the radiator. Checked all the fluid levels (oil) included. I am the second owner of the car, I bought it from a family member. It has 208000+ miles on it. There are no leaks. As I type this and after reading some other posts. I am going back to check the radiator cap. I know you said your car is a 97 model, but we both have the same symptoms. I would like to thank you in advance for any advice you might have to help solve my problem.
I read this as well before I posted my symptoms and reading it again and see it was from you. I am going to try this as well....wow... Just didn't pay attention to the posts. And you are saying because of a corroded connection from battery to body of the car would make the engine over heat? I will definitely check this out...Thanks again in advance.
I've been having the same problem with my 99 neon- did you try the battery clean up that wiggdoff suggested ... & if so did it work?
#74 Re: 1997 Dodge Neon Overheating [beauds] by gvalley1 Aug 29, 2011 (11:36 am)
Hi I've been having the same problem with my 99 neon- did you try the battery clean up that wiggdoff suggested ... & if so did it work?
View/reply at: Re: 1997 Dodge Neon Overheating [beauds]
All connections to battery are clean, posts and the ground to the body of the car, but it seem strange a corroded connection to the body of the car would make keep spiking up and down between halfway of the temp gauge and to hot. I think I am going to try a complete coolant system flush. Hopefully that will work, but if there some reason that corroded connection will make it run hot then I will look at it again and hopefully check the connection to the starter, but it really don't seem logical.
PLEASE any advice or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!
I'm always suspicious of Neon overheats, so that's why I mentioned this. But sounds like you're ahead of me on this one!
Getting frustrated!
I replaced the radiator and it seem to be working just great. I have a 99 neon sport, I am just going to keep an eye on it
What I actually discovered is that the sensor is in a bad location and difficult to get to. In order to work on these new front wheel drive cars you actually need to remove some parts to get to the parts you need to replace. In the proces the wiring is also often removed. The problem is is this causes wear to the wiring.
In this case the plug that goes into the temperature sending unit. The plug often needs to be untwisted because often it is twisted to plug it in properly. The problem with twisting it is that it causes wear to the wires connected to it so that the insulation gets damaged and the bare wires touch one another. My plug was actually twisted around so bad that all 3 wires going into the plug were wrapped around each other sending or not sending a false signal to the pcm or the computer for the car.
I called the dealer and they could not supply me with a new plug so I carefully untwisted it so the wires would not break. Now I Could get another plug from the junkyard if I found one good enough to replace it or I could supply it with new insulation to the wires because they were just bare and undamaged. So I Chose to try to insulate it as the most time and cost effective solution. Now we are dealing with a sensor with uses vey little voltage. Actually not voltage at all but ohms. It doesn't use enough electricity to be measured in voltage only ohms. So there would be no danger from arcing like it would if it was in the ignition system which uses thousands of volts.
Since the wires were so small and close together it would be nearly impossible to use electrical tape to insulate them. What I needed was something to coat them. I had some gasket maker in a tube. I squeezed enough of that to the cover the bare sections of wire and to creat a durable repair. I then waited about 20 hours for it to dry. It fully cures in 24 but you can use it immediately if you have to in the case of gaskets but in this case I waited 20 hours because I wanted it to be nice and firm when I plugged it in.
End of story is the car no longer overheats, the check engine light is out, The temperature gauge is not erratic. The car starts right away when it is cold or hot and the car runs propelry at idle. This sensor is very important for the rest of the engine management system and it controlled all those symptoms listed above. Thank you for listening.
THANKS!
if you send it to my email put neon pic so i know what it is for
as for the head gaskets
thinking this is the same thing as the olds bumpers that fell off
two metals that dont get along together
same thing for the ground wires
all the relays are the same trade the fan for the horn beep the horn if it works its good for the horn anyway in case it was over heating it
thanks for the Forum
the car i have is 96 neon with only 51000 miles on it
just had the head planed today it did not take all the pits out of it
now i wish they still made copper paint like they used to
john
Had heating trouble after I replaced a bad head and this solved it cost nothing but time