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Ford Windstar Electrical Problems

terrykemmterrykemm Member Posts: 1
edited March 2019 in Ford
When I close the tailgate or side door the delay relay does not always work. Sometimes the interior lights will go out and other times they will not. Any ideas of a resolution for this?

Thanks
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Comments

  • clevoclevo Member Posts: 5
    This message thread may be of some help

    Windstar - door ajar & interior lights problem
  • dmnifongdmnifong Member Posts: 2
    Take wd40 or crc or simmillar and spray it into the place that looks like a horozonatal v that is where the latch method is located then slam the sliding door 3 or 4 times. This will probably fix your problem. My windstar does the same thing and this solves the problem then I have to redo it every week or so. If that does not work then try the same thing on the two latches on your back gate.
  • 88fan88fan Member Posts: 2
    About a month ago I hit a bump in the road. When I hit the bump, my radio and entertainment center(VCR combo) quit working. I checked the fuses and #6 was blown. When I replace it, it immediately blows. I have tried a larger amp fuse and have went all the way to a 30 amp which is double what was in it before. Has anyone experienced this before? Any help would be appreciated.
  • stuckistucki Member Posts: 1
    After parking the Windstar the tail lights remain on. If I get back in and pump the brake they will go off. However, many times I will get out and forget to check the tail lights, the result being a dead battery after a couple of hours. Has anyone suffered this problem and if so what is the fix?

    Thanks much, Le
  • billyd2billyd2 Member Posts: 1
    I have exactly this problem, right now as I type. Were you able to resolve this? thanks
    Bill D
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    I used a little WD-40 (like) lubricant on the moving parts and brake sensor on the brake pedal.

    That fixed the problem.
  • billy22billy22 Member Posts: 1
    I tried checking the fuses under the dash and none are busted additionally, I checked both tail light bulbs and they are still good. Does anyone have any ideas?
  • bri2canbri2can Member Posts: 1
    when you find out let me know i have the same problem with a 99 also my interior light flashes as well
  • jtalley337jtalley337 Member Posts: 2
    My windstar just passed 140,000 miles and at the same time all this happened:
    ABS light - ON
    Parking Light - ON
    OD off light - flashing
    Spedometer - not working
    Odometer - not working displays ------

    Does anybody have any ideas? As I said, all of this came on or quit working at the same time.

    Let me know. Thanks.
  • smcsloansmcsloan Member Posts: 1
    i am frustrated!!!!! i bought a manual for this van , and it doesn't help me. both low beams are out. changed them. it worked. two weeks later same thing. changed again. still not working. checked fuses , replaced headlight switch. nothing. the first time , my hi beams worked. now they only work if i hold it in "flash" position. someone said to check wires. where would i do that at? i am 30 yr old widowed mom of three. so i am on limited income. is this worth my time to fix? any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated. thank you
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Master Cylinder leak!
  • shawncushingshawncushing Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find out about your situation? Our 2002 Windstar is just above 125,000 and while driving home at night we had:

    Battery light on
    ABS brake light on
    Airbag light on
    brake light on
    radio went on & off
    head lights, brake lights, signal lights went off
    And the van started to hesitate as we were 1 mile from home.

    Would like any information. Thanks
  • dchalkdchalk Member Posts: 3
    Our 03 Windstar Limited @ 72K miles is experiencing a lot of electrical issues. The most bothersome right now is that the outside temperature gauge is acting up again. A reputable garage replaced the sensor and it worked for for a few weeks and now is acting up again. When it is 75 degree F out, it may show a temp of -11 degrees. We also get the annoying reset chime. This usually occurs after the battery goes dead and we have to drive the car in a circle to reset compass.

    I took it back to garage and they gave up. They think it is a bad module but are reluctant to spend any more time or money on this repair.

    Any ideas as to what is causing this erroneous reading? The compass is working fine BTW!!
  • klkkidsklkkids Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 Windstar, basic model. I have a problem with the ground wire to the starter, but only occasionally. Periodically, it will act as if the battery is dead when I attempt to start my van. If I manipulate this ground wire attachment to the starter with a wrench, it works fine for a period, then needs to be messed with again. I have tried cleaning the connection attachments/wires. Does anyone know what I can do to fix this? Would changing the battery ground wire help? Thank you.
  • poolecarspoolecars Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Windstar, the interior lights flash on and off whenever we are driving. My power sliding door on the driver's side will not shut on auto no more, it keeps opening back up when it tries to close. another problem the dealer cannot fix.
  • christineb66christineb66 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem and discovered that it was a blown fuse. Check the owner's manual, but I think the location number is 10, and I believe is a 15A fuse. If you replace it and it blows out again, you have an electrical problem that needs to be looked at by a mechanic.
  • vipaymivipaymi Member Posts: 1
    I bought a windstar 1991 and the windows from the door won't go down. If anyone knows a reason for that we will apreciate the tip to fix them :cry:
  • mykgmykg Member Posts: 1
    I disconnected the negative battery terminal, placed a test light between the terminal and the loose cable and the light came on. Indicating a possible short, I believe. I removed/replaced fuses until the light went out to isolated the faulty circuit and found that the fuse where the previous owner tied in the radio was the potential culprit. After pulling the radios power lead and replacing the fuse, the test light blinked and I could hear a clicking sound under the dash at the same frequency as the blinking test light. It was fuse #29 - Interior lighting, etc. Does anybody have any ideas about what my next step(s) should be, please? Thanks.
  • jnmtpcjnmtpc Member Posts: 1
    I believe that your problem may be in the headlight switch on the steering wheel. ie: the combo hi-low and turn signals. This part could be expensive so I would rule out other problems before changing it. This may require removal of the steering wheel to change on some model cars. It would be unusual to have bad wiring although it is possible. Checking the wiring is a lengthy process and can become quite expensive. i recommend bringing the car to a DEALER with a good rep. This will cost you about $100. to diagnose the problem but they will pinpoint it and tell you how much it will cost to fix it before they start the work. As for your question; "Is it worth fixing?" only you can answer that. It is entirely up to you.
  • king12king12 Member Posts: 2
    there might me a short circuit or something might be groundsing out you should fix the problem and not use a bigger amps fuse this could cause your car to go on fire the fuse prevent a fire if the line is overloaded with a bigger fuse it could melt the wires then cause a fire
  • hrozariohrozario Member Posts: 9
    Hello Folks,
    I started my Ford 1995 windstar and there was a wiff of smoke coming from behind the steering wheel maybe from the starter switch assembly. I turned it off and waited for the smoke to dissipate (5 minutes). Then I started the vehicle and made it home (45 minute drive) Later the van turns over well with a healthy battery but the engine does not fire. Just like a no gas situation. The starter tries but the engine just does not run. What should I investigate?

    Please also note that I had recently changed my starter solenoid after what seemed like a dead battery situation only that all the lights worked well and strong. The vehicle worked well for a week after the solenoid change before the smoking issue above.
  • fatottofatotto Member Posts: 1
    my 97 3.8 windstar started this bad idle low rpm when stopped in gear, like at stop sign or light and kept stalling.it got worse as it warmed up. i took it to my mechanic he said its :mad: to expensive to start changing parts, found no codes,he said take it home and try changing wires, clean fuel injectors,look for vac leaks,intake leaks. so i started looking, found this valve on front of manifold there are two of them, one had a blown diaphragm. they are on a intake manifold called split port induction.i think it only came on engine years 96,97,98. so i did a mickey mouse repair job and it worked very good. i found this part on ebay . intake control valve not idle control valve thats another part on the thottle body. its a dealer part at around $270.00.i have not ordered the part ($70). soon i hope.
  • van7188van7188 Member Posts: 8
    My 2000 windstar just passed 80,000 miles and at the same time all this happened:
    ABS light - ON
    Parking Light - ON
    OD off light - flashing
    Spedometer - not working
    Odometer - not working displays ------
    The 10amp fuse that controls all of this keeps blowing. I had a service tech unplug part of my wire harness under the air filter box from a square aluminum box. This fixed the problem for about 5 miles! So i left the wire unplugged from the box and took the van to another service tech that blamed a leak from the master cylinder. he fixed the leak left the wire unplugged and the fuse quit blowing and all gages started working again. the problem that remains is now because the wire is still unplugged i have no horn or cruise control and when I plug the wire back in to the box i blow the fuse again.
    Does anybody have any ideas?
    Let me know. Thanks.
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    The leaking brake fluid make have damaged the wiring, repair or replace this wiring.

    Good Luck.
  • christineb66christineb66 Member Posts: 2
    Absolutely - I had the same problem. There's likely a fuse that's blown in the fusebox in the engine (pop the hood and it should be on your right side, assuming the engine set up is the same as my 2002). Can't remember the location of the fuse off the top of my head, but it was one of the blue fuses in my box. Pull the cover off the fuse box and look down at them. You should be able to see if the elements are either blown, or look corroded. Just pop it out, take it to the autoparts store for a replacement. Once you replace that fuse, you shouldn't have any more problems.
  • rs4cdrs4cd Member Posts: 1
    ....this is becoming quite dangerous. On many occasions this past 6 months the vehicle is stalling while driving. There are occasional shutters that the van makes. My first reaction was Water in the Fuel line or Spark Plug. My mechanic(s) have run Diagnostic Tests (5 in all) and are unable to locate the problem. I have spent over $700 in diagnostic tests (Ugh). Also while driving at night, the headlight will dim and then brighten back up. This does not happen at the same time as the shuttering (or at least I don't think so). When the van stalls out, it will do so unannounced at any given speed in any given traffic condition. I usually pull off to the side of the road, turn everything off and have no problem starting the vehicle back up. My mechanic suggests that we start with changing out the basics and working our way up. This could get quite expensive for something that sounds easy to find. Suggestions??
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Member Posts: 3,855
    Yikes, $700 in diagnostic tests and all you get out of it is: start with changing out the basics and working our way up (whatever that means).

    Has it been to a Ford dealer for a diagnosis?
  • sal26sal26 Member Posts: 3
    New member hi! Big DIY guy wondering how to fix my pass side rear view turn signal light and how to find the keypad code without going to the $100.00 hr dealer. Lastly how easy is it to find performance parts for subtle modifications ie. brakes, cold air intake, suspention Any suggestions?
  • sal26sal26 Member Posts: 3
  • sal26sal26 Member Posts: 3
    Picked up this van and love it so far. A few questions to anyone that can help. The right turn signal indicator on the rearview went out recently easy fix or do I have to take it to the dreaded dealer? 2. How can I get the keypad code without using the dealer? Lastly any modifications avail ie. suspention, cold air intake, brakes?
  • smercersmercer Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 was doing that too but I got an idle control valve and it fixed that problem. Right now though it has other issues. The backup lights will not come on. The fuse is not blown. The van also is starting to buck, and the interior lights are flashing on and off. Anybody help me figure out this problem.
  • kweltykwelty Member Posts: 10
    I had this happening about a year ago. My husband decided it was the brake pedal sticking a bit and not coming up completely to switch them off. I don't remember exactly what he did that fixed it, but it stopped. I will ask him and post back. Knowing him, he got out some WD-40 and lubricated something. I don't remember purchasing a part. Hope this helps.
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    A little WD-40 on the brake light switch also fixed the problem on my 2000 SEL.
  • kweltykwelty Member Posts: 10
    No WD-40 was used to fix mine after all! He is home now and said the bracket holding the brake light switch was bent a little and he just straightened out. While it was bent it wasn't letting it "switch off"
  • tomemietomemie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. The right front turn indicator stops working at night. It works fine during daylight hours. What could be the cause of this?
  • jjsbgjjsbg Member Posts: 3
    We are having so many of the exact same problems as outlined here.

    The interior dome lights coming on at will even when the switch is in the off position.
    The “Liftgate ajar” light coming on even when the liftgate is closed.
    The “right side door opening at will” or refusing to close, and having to be kept locked to keep this from occurring.
    The Battery going completely dead even after brand new batteries have been put in.

    We have had it into Ford so many times in the last few weeks, and had to have it towed there again this morning (fourth time in two weeks). Has anyone been able to find out what is causing their problems, that might help?
  • jjsbgjjsbg Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find out what your problem was with the interior lights and the power sliding door??? We are having so many of the exact same problems as outlined here.

    The interior dome lights coming on at will even when the switch is in the off position.
    The “Liftgate ajar” light coming on even when the liftgate is closed.
    The “right side door opening at will” or refusing to close, and having to be kept locked to keep this from occurring.
    The Battery going completely dead even after brand new batteries have been put in.

    We have had it into Ford so many times in the last few weeks, and had to have it towed there again this morning (fourth time in two weeks). Did you find out anything? They told us yesterday they cannot find anything wrong, have tested all the "modules??".
  • smaymosmaymo Member Posts: 1
    In my 2002 Windstar I am getting a message to check left front headlamp. I found that the lowbeam does not work but the high did. I replaced the headlamp with a new one and I still have the same problem. I have a new 15A fuse which I was going to put in and see if that made a difference, But, I cannot seem to figure out how to take the cover of the fusebox off. Anyhelp would be appreciated. I don't think replacing the fuse will work as it would seem that the high beam wouldn't work either. Anyone else have this problem?
  • hrozariohrozario Member Posts: 9
    Well, after starting my concerns I have just about given up. I resolved the issue with the vehicle not starting because it was an ignition switch problem. I know sometime back there was a recall on these switches. I have 2 of these Fix Or Repair Daily vehicles abd I firmly believe that Ford dealers do nothing if they find there is no immediate problem. Even if there is a call to change out a part. I am concerned that someone if not already will be hurt or worse killed.

    My van still acts up with the internal dome lights,door ajar warning and the annoying ding ding ding as if the door was open.

    I wonder why there is no class action suit against Ford for such poor vehicles. I am sure there are many more Windstar owners facing problems with the vans.
  • hrozariohrozario Member Posts: 9
    Taking off the fuse box seems complicated but it is real easy. Lie on your back and get under the dash of the drivers side. You can see it clearly above you. All you have to do is tug on it firmly holding the sides. The is a litle tool inside to hold fuses for removal and installation.

    The book and the position of each fuse however did not make sense. I was really confused by the diagram and what I saw. There is no orienataion and any way I looked at it, it seemed different from the book. Good luck.

    Owner of a Fix Or Repair Daily
  • hrozariohrozario Member Posts: 9
    Lack of good sleep!
    Sorry could not help it.

    Seriously, Are you in a colder region? Could temperature have something to do with it?

    Can't think of anything else. Maybe standby a wooden stake, silver bullets in your gun and some holy water.
  • a1mike1aa1mike1a Member Posts: 9
    My 02 windstar keeps killing batteries. A new battery will last about a month or so before it is dead. The alternator is new. A test light between the neg. post and the neg. wire shows a draw. Pulling fuses one at a time has no effect. The theft light blinks all night long running down the battery.
    Any ideas how to turn off the theft light?
  • firststrikefirststrike Member Posts: 1
    ">I put in new alt. in 2000 windstar. Battery tested to 12.5 v rather than 13.25 v . Figured alt would charge it from there. Checked directionals, headlights upper and lower beams. All was OK. Gave to wife and after a few hrs running around town, she brings it to me and lights were dim, left blinker would not shut off, emergency flashers would't work, high beams wouldn't come on, lights won't shut off, tail lights and brake lights were out. After shutting engine off it would not turn over from dead battery.
    Would low battery voltage cause this and should I have new alternator checked since the dim head lights are a symptom of a bad alt.? none of these issues were present prior to new alternator.
  • mbuttrammbuttram Member Posts: 1
    okay this is my problem...I have a 2003 windstar, yesterday it ran just fine, nothing wrong, this morning my husband tries to go to work, he turns the key and all we get is this clatter noise, along with our emergency blinkers and our headlights flashing, so he wakes me I try to start it...the same thing happens after trying it several more times, I notice that before I completely turn the key I get this faint kind of woosh noise followed by a click, then the clatter noise (I describe it as a baseball card in a bicycle tire) changed to this loud clicking noise almost like that of a electric charge not connecting, this is accompanied again by the emergency blinkers going off and the headlights flashing even though the both of those are in the off posistion. Now it cant be the battery cause the electric windows work also the stereo and all the dash lights, all the lights and that such work...please help...we are supposed to leave to drive from here in southern california to Southern oregon today!!!
  • van7188van7188 Member Posts: 8
    mine did the exact same thing a couple of weeks ago.change your battery and everything should be fine. thats how this van responds when your battery goes bad.
  • jskeenenjskeenen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Windstar and having the same issues of the brake/tail lights remain on after the vehicle is turned off. I have to pump the brake pedal several times to get them to turn off.

    What did u do to fix the problem? Thanks.
  • svorheessvorhees Member Posts: 1
    My interior lights kept coming on also and my technician had me spray WD40 on all door latches, one on each door and 2 on hatch. This cured the light problem.
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    Some WD-40 on your brake light switch (under the dash) connected to your brake pedal will fix this.
  • gcastorgcastor Member Posts: 2
    My 1998 Ford Winstar has all the same issues as everyone else's! Dinging dingers, dome lights staying on, transmission was rebuilt because of metal shavings, strut issues, you name it. The newest is......... The right blinker when turned on makes a sound as "zapping" noise as if shorting out AND whether it is related or not, the battery light comes on, lights dim, fan blower gets low. We charge the battery but it just does it again. When you rev the engine the light will go off but then comes back on. Any ideas?????
  • jjsbgjjsbg Member Posts: 3
    we ended up replacing the battery and that did not resolve the problem. Then Ford dealership decided that there was a Di-ode?? in the alternator that was bad, so they replaced the alternator. Thank goodness for warranties, but the warranty did not cover the 12 hours in diagnostics that it took to find this elusive di-ode. But, for now, the car is starting without a problem. The inside lights and right sliding door are still having a will of their own, but we will try the WD-40 that one other poster mentioned here. Never again will we buy a Ford. This has been a nightmare.
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