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Ford Windstar Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • jennetjennet Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2002 Ford Windstar SE, I just recently started having problems with it. My front windows stopped working so I replaced the driver side one with a new window motor, it worked for about 5 months then stopped working again, when u push the window button it makes a clicking noise under the dashboard, now my air doesn't work, after that my radio went out and now my rear windows don't work.the engine light stays on, I took it to Advance Auto and they checked it and said it needed oxygen sensors so I replaced all 4 of them with new parts and it still stays on, every once in a while my brake light comes on, I cant afford to buy another car, can someone plz help me.
  • gunner623gunner623 Member Posts: 2
    I've seen many posts on here about elictrical problems I've heard from people I talk to that some or all of these problems can be caused by the front or rear body control module if your batttery is drained and have to get it jumped by other vehicle or give someone else a jump start that the body control module can go bad there are two of them a front and a rear and a friend that does body work said one time that the headlight dimmerr switch caused it to shoot fuses for interior lights I have not tried either of these solutions this is only suggestions to fix or a possible lead to fix problems
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    edited October 2011
    First off. The window problem, just happens..

    Regardless, the clicking you hear is not under the dashboard its behind the radio. Basically it is an actuator with a bunch of gears that adjusts a trap door that controls the amount of heat/ac coming out through your vents. The "AC BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR" as it is called is known to fail.
    The clicking you are hearing are gears in that actuator not catching...

    There are directions on how to fix that on this website..
    http://www.lifeasbob.com/CategoryView,category,Cars%2B,%2BWindstar.aspx

    Scroll down to where it says NO HEAT..

    The check Engine light is most likely the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR which can be found in the air box where the engine air filter is located.

    Try cleaning it...
    http://www.berrysweb.com/clean_your_maf.htm

    If not research the specific codes that ADVANCE AUTO PARTS is pulling up with their device!

    Your brake light coming on is probably due to low fluid, also you should have had the cruise control deactivation switch recall repair completed...

    Check to see if you have open recalls
    http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/RecallsPage
  • notamechanic7notamechanic7 Member Posts: 5
    So, is my problem the scds or the rem? About 1 1/2 years ago we replaced the altenator. About 10 months ago we replaced the starter and then the battery only to find out that the wiring harness wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box had been bent right as it goes into the fuse box and caused a short. I bought the wiring harness and replace it myself about 2 days after spending all that money for a mechanic to replace the starter and the battery. Drove fine, other than than having to replace the power steering pump and pully and charge the a/c.
    Now, last week, I went to put some rack & pinion conditioner in the power steering and realized I was out. I closed the hood and finished the yard work, but while I was mowing the back yard, my wife went to the store and I had left the cap off the power steering fluid. What a mess, but now I had room to put a bottle of conditioner in it.
    That helped for a couple of days till my wife called and said that the van died. The lights flickered and the a/c stopped working and it completely died when she stopped at the bank. She waited a few minutes and it started so she drove it back to our church. This was on Tuesday.
    On Wednesday, after Church, I got in it, started it, high rpms idling, left the parking lot, kept a/c and radio off, headlight on, gauge lights started to dim, still running high rpms. about a mile down the road the gauge lights were really dim and then the headlights and taillights went out. I made the right turn, then the left onto my street. Drove about 1/8 more mile and the engine finaly quit and I coasted into my driveway. The gauge lights were very dim, but would not go off even when the key was out and I opened the door. No locks or lights worked so I had to manually lock the doors.
    Any ideas? 106,000 miles, but we have babied this thing.
  • herschel13herschel13 Member Posts: 1
    We are having the exact same problem with our 2002 Windstar SE. Our van only has 65,000 miles. I picked her van up 30 minutes after it broke down and was able to start it and drive home. Took it home and it sat in the garage for 3 months. Went to start it, everything was dead. I disconnected the battery completely from the car and charged the battery. Van has been driving good for the last 2 weeks, however passenger window still will not roll down and engine light did come on a couple of days ago. Still hear the clicking noise in the drivers side window when pushing the buttons. I don't want to put this in the shop until I can really clarify what the issue is. Please let me know if you find anything out.
  • notamechanic7notamechanic7 Member Posts: 5
    Well, I just got mine back from the shop yesterday. It was the alternator, or so they say. They checked the battery and it was still good. I told them to make sure they did not bend the wiring harness connector at the fuse box. I got the previous alternator at Oreilly's with the lifetime warranty so I only payed for labor. I had them check all electrical connections on the wiring harness because I did that myself about 10 months ago. This van seems to be very sensitive with the electronics. Make sure your alternator is in tip-top shape or it will kill your battery again and cause other electrical issues. I am still going to replace the REM and the sensor that others have talked about.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    edited October 2011
    Our alternator goes out basically 1-1/2 year intervals as well. I replaced the harness that goes to the (battery/starter/alternator/fuse box/ground) . I also got a brand new battery and Alternator (not re-manufactured) with a lifetime warranty.
    at the same time a little while ago

    Our 2001 SEL has 221,000 miles and counting..

    Oh and a major fail on your part!!

    FORD WINDSTARS TAKE ATF (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID) in the POWER STEERING.

    SO IF YOU HAVE POWER STEERING FLUID running in it, PLAN on purchasing a new RACK AND PINON
  • notamechanic7notamechanic7 Member Posts: 5
    Luckily, when I went to get power steering fluid when I purchased the new power steering pump and wheel, the guy at Oreilly's told me that it takes Automatic Transmission Fluid. Thanks goodness there are a few people that work there that know what they are doing. I have never had to put power steering fluid (I mean ATF) in it, but I'm wondering what they do when they top off my fluids at the Qik-Lube when they change my oil? Do they know what they are doing? I think I will start doing most of the routine maintenance from now on. I've learned more than I've ever wanted to know about cars from this Windstar than any other vehicle that I've owned.
    It was almost 1 1/2 years ago when we replaced the alternator last, so you are saying this is what I probably have to look forward to every 1 1/2 years? Great!
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    LOL, good thing you didnt put P/S in that. I had thought I one point that my P/S system was shot.

    I drained out the P/S reservoir and put new Ford ATF (whatever was recommend in the manual.). Anyways it initially would growl and be hard to turn. Topping off as I was turning the wheel back and forth, it hasn't given me problems.

    Anyways...

    My rear windows stopped working. The passenger window broke AGAIN after it was fixed a few years ago. (we owned another 01' Windstar where the Passenger window did not function either)

    The door lock actuators have basically crapped out, the front cheaper and easier to replace. The back actuators are a PITA to replace.

    Overall we got 220k miles out of that van and it is still there....

    Problems I have had with this van that i DIY (Living in Florida)
    Sensors
    IAC
    MAF
    DPFE
    ------
    Upper Intake Bolts/Seals
    Clogged EGR metering ports
    Intermittent working windows.
    Failing Door Lock Actuators
    ABS/BRAKE light, failure of ABS module
    Failure of Sway Bar Links (Clunk when turning at low speeds)
    AC Blend Door Actuator
    Door Ajar Warning (initially thought it was sensor, turned out to be a shorted wire in the door wiring harness)

    Spark Plugs
    Coil Pack

    Multiple
    Alternators
    Batteries

    New Battery Wire Harness

    Rock in Rad/AC fan assembly

    Pigtail tail light and turning signal connections
    ---
    Other common problems lie with Failure of Transmission....
  • frazzled5frazzled5 Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 2002 Windstar last fall. Had all 3 recalls done on the vehicle. Had no issues before I had the recalls done. Now engine light, ABS and brake lights continually come on and have replaced batteries and alternator. Just curious if everyone's issues started after they had the recalls done on their vehicle.
  • oyokidude1oyokidude1 Member Posts: 20
    I don't think ford techs are scheming, and causing problems. I doubt they think an owner would bring a $900-$4,500 van back to the dealership for repairs. I know for a fact an issue lies with the ABS MODULE ...
    .
    Remember you said you just purchased it..
    LET THE PROBLEMS BEGIN =D

    I live in the South so I don't have these axle snappings or rust problems...

    visit
    www.fordwindstarrecall.info
    and read about the ABS module failure. Also report this Brake issue to http://www.nhtsa.gov/
  • aerostarfanaerostarfan Member Posts: 1
    We just purchased our 2002 Windstar last fall too! and have replaced the alternator 3 times in 18,000 miles. All but one of the recall fixes had been done when we bought it, then the last was done. Other than eating alternators, it's a great ride but sadly, though it's been only 1K miles since alternator replacement #3, it appears the downward spiral leading to alternator death has begun again, since warning lights have started turning on and off randomly during driving.

    Here's how the breakdown goes every time: for several weeks the warning lights get intermittently wonky (brake, seat belt and ABS warning lights come on and off randomly), next there will be incidents of gauges swinging wildly, A/C turning off, electric doors/windows failing, and then soon afterwards the engine (in the middle of driving just fine) starts to sputter, then dies, with the alternator dead and battery drained. After each alternator replacement, my regular mechanic then 2 different dealer mechanics said they checked every electrical wire circuit, connection, etc., and found nothing wrong - just sent us on our way with an "all fixed."

    I know many would have dumped this van already, but we can't afford to replace it and need a way to transport elderly parents and pets who don't fit into our little Kia sedan. At this point, though, even with 11K miles left on the dealer's repair warranty, it's a safety issue to have elderly and pets on board if/when it breaks down again.

    For now I'm driving with a battery/alternator tester plugged in at all times, hoping at least I'll KNOW when the alternator fries and can get to a safe place before the engine dies. The tester shines green (good) at first, then changes to green and yellow (low) after a few minutes of driving. It may be unrelated, but there is sometimes bad radio interference for awhile after the AC fan is turned on, and lately the AC takes about 10 minutes to blow cold air.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for fixes we can try before we get rid of this van? I don't even feel right selling it, because I'm sure that's what the previous owners did, passing their misery on to us when we bought it. I don't want to do that to someone else.

    Thanks in advance!
  • notamechanic7notamechanic7 Member Posts: 5
    Well, I understand your misery. Our van is paid off, but we can't afford a new vehicle with 3 boys, 1 car payment and mortgage. This van is how my wife gets the kids to school and child care. Sometimes she takes their cousins to school.
    As of now, the van is running great. Like you said, it rides and handles well. My wife loves it other than the electrical issues.
    We just got a new alternator installed.
    I only have a few suggestions:
    1. Make sure the wire going from the battery to the fuse box goes under the air filter box. This was the beginning of my misery. This caused the short which drained my first battery and killed the alternator. They recharged the battery and put in a new alternator, but the battery did not last long.
    2. Along with the new alternator, get a new battery.
    3. Replace the Rear Electronic Module.
    4. Replace the wiring harness if you notice any part of it that may seem burned. This is a short and will drain your battery and kill your alternator. Remember to put mechanics grease on all electric terminals.
    5. Check the timing and any other routine maintenance items (again, I'm not a mechanic).

    Every couple of days I am checking the battery because this seems to be where my problems stem from. If your Windstar is fully loaded like mine, then there are many things that can drain the battery. I hope this helps and you can do many of these things on your own. My wiring harness was from the Ford dealer and cost me $120, I put it on myself in about 30 minutes. I put a new starter on before that, but only to find that the battery was dead (mechanic told me it was the starter). This started the downward spiral of the alternator. The battery was dead because the wiring harness was bent at the fuse box instead of coming out straight and going under the air filter box.
    Sorry for the rambling.
  • yohan27yohan27 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Windstar SEL, the driver's side power sliding door and the rear heater both stopped working shortly after I bought it in 2008. Sometimes if we hit a bump or go through a car wash they will both start working again all the sudden. In winter time the air bag light comes on. Sometimes a warning comes on to check charging system and the lights will dim so I turn the van off and restart it and it works again. Lately its draining overnight and at first I thought it was because the passenger power sliding door wasnt closing all the way but even when we make sure its closed it will still drain overnight. Is this all one problem or multiple problems? Dont really have the money to pay 400 in diagnostic work which is what the ford dealer told me it would cost just to find out whats wrong. :confuse:
  • notamechanic7notamechanic7 Member Posts: 5
    I don't know where you are from, but here, Auto Zone and Oreilly's both do free diagnostics. Any good mechanic would check your battery for dead cells and see if your alternator is working for a minimum charge or even free if you ask. If it is the alternator, try to get it at Oreilly's with the life-time warranty. Also, check the REM or rear electronic module. This seems to be a problem as well. Go over the wiring harness very closely looking for any signs of arching. This was the start of all my problems. 2 alternators, 2 batteries, diode (or whatever), and a starter later and I am hoping I finally got to the bottom of it. Good luck and keep us posted.
  • yohan27yohan27 Member Posts: 2
    I should have said, I had the battery and alternator both checked and they said both were functioning perfectly, dont know about REM ill have to check that out.
  • frazzled5frazzled5 Member Posts: 2
    We had the same problem with the battery draining overnight. We've replaced the battery and the alternator but it was still doing it. We've had the ABS module and wiring harness looked at because the ABS and brake lights kept coming on. Everything checked out fine.

    Our local mechanic has resolved this issue for us by installing a battery kill switch, like they use to use on hot rods. Our mechanic did not disturb the original battery cables, he ran separate cables off of the battery for the kill switch. When you are ready to park the van for the night, shut everything off (lights, radio, heater), turn the van off and then turn the kill switch key. The next morning, turn the kill switch key on and the van fires right up. We have been testing this for a week now and have not had any problems with it.

    No more headaches of having to constantly jump start it. It may be a work around for the real issue but it was a lot cheaper than continually replacing batteries and alternators.

    If you need more information on it let us know and we will see if our mechanic would talk to your mechanic but can't promise anything.
  • lwong82dlwong82d Member Posts: 4
    I also had some electrical problems with my 2004 Windstar. Something was draining the battery over night. I sent it in to the local mechanic, and after two weeks, he tells us what he found. For one thing, there is a computer set under the steering wheel that he reset and caused my locks, AC, and windows to begin working, as some of the windows had stopped. But the computer behind the instrument gauge, as my gauges would crazily spin, even after I turned the engine off, held the fuse that drained my battery. He says that there is a device in the van that runs 90 min after the van is turned off and enters into sleep mode, so he kept having to wait until that shut off before testing. He said there is a fuse, very tiny, that was draining the battery. When he removed it, EVERYTHING (except for one thing) worked normally. They tested over and over, test drove it, checked the battery for a few days, and nothing went wrong. This fuse...they could NOT find any specification in the manual or internet or anywhere that explains exactly what the fuse was for, but he said that without the fuse, the only thing that did not work was the chime that came on when you leave your headlights on and the engine is off. So we agreed to just leave the fuse out and see how it goes over the months. I get my van back today. But he said that if I want the fuse replaced that I would need a new instrument cluster...which would be very expensive he says. My dad, who is a bit savvy with working on his own vehicles but lives 800 miles away says that seems suspicious and to check with Ford parts and see if they can replace the fuse without buying a new cluster. So I'm doing some searches about this. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
  • lwong82dlwong82d Member Posts: 4
    Just to correct myself, my van is a 2003, and it was fuse 16 in the fuse box under the dashboard. But now I know what else not having it there does not work...the gauge lights.

    And my AC is not working...just blowing air, and my locks will lock everything except the driver side as it will lock and then pop up. I have to lock it manually. And one of my rear side windows still won't open. So I will have to call the mechanic on Monday and see where that goes. Otherwise, it's running good now.
  • fredtechfredtech Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2011
    frazzed5, by using the kill switch, your vehicle's PCM Keep Alive Memory (KAM) is being erased every time the power supply to the vehicle is cut off. When the ignition key is turned off, the vehicle's computers still require voltage to keep their memory alive. The drain on the battery is minimal. The PCM's OBDII monitors will have to be reset or test complete every time you do this. Any DTCs (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) stored will also be erased. DTCs are very helpful in diagnosing performance problems your vehicle may develope. You also lose freeze frame information that shows the precise data that the PCM was receiving when the malfuction occurred. Your mechanic is sacrificing much of value to fix your electrical problem. You may want to ask him about this.
  • eric77777eric77777 Member Posts: 1
    Hi everybody!
    Seems I'm not the only one with this hobby : OWNING A WINDSTAR!!! What happens is this light on dash is always on, shape of a lightbulb with a ! ... and ABS, Brake light, and engine light come on randomly. Front wipers only work if I click them to the last two speeds (fast and berserk!) Headlights on ''ON'' position, left has high beam while right beam is simply on, and if I push the beam lever forward (always High beam) the left one will turn off while the right one goes high, as if they're one position away one from the other. Power locks also have a problem (driver door won't lock and none work if keys are not in ignition)..

    The other day, all warning lights came on and stayed on after starting the van but the rest of dash stayed off and all gauges stayed down (RPM, Speed, Gas, Temperature...) front beams werent working but the 'daylights' were on.

    Can someone help me with where to look, if you've had or worked on similar problems ?!

    Thank you so much and good luck with yours!
  • windcarewindcare Member Posts: 1
    Did that switch fix the problem? I've been having problems for a month; dome lights flashing while driving and the battery dieing over night and more recently over 8 hours since it's Chicago cold weather. Bought a new battery and my mechanic does not want to deal with it anymore. Flipped the switch so the dome lights won't come on anymore but the bottom lights in the rear (by the sliding doors) come on and stay on when they want to. My guess this is what's taking out the battery. Please help!
  • van7188van7188 Member Posts: 8
    edited December 2011
    For your dash it sounds like a blown fuse. This used to happen to my van when the master cylinder was leaking on to the wire harness. What i did was unplug the wire coming out of the master cylander and change the fuse. Ford did a recall for the issue a little over a year ago. They replaced the master cylinder and the fuse didn't blow again for about a month. Then it started blowing again, so I just unplugged that wire permanently and no problems since. For the dome light mine does this one too. I traced the problem to the right rear passenger slide door. The back latch doesn't lock in properly so when you hit bumps e.t.c. the dome lights come on. I tried wd40 e.t.c. to get the latch to work properly with no success. So I took out the rear side light bulbs and turned the over head dome switch in front and rear off.I probably should replace the latch but I think im just going to trade the Ford in and buy a Dodge or Chevy even though I could get the friends and family discount from Ford. Just tired of the issues and Fords rust way too soon. Hope this helps you.
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    First off, I would like to thank the admin of this site for it's existence & I would extend a special thanks to those members that contributed to all those fine articles, pictures & research on the problems.
    Now I have read most every article on the various problems & it seems that I have a problem related to the ABS/Brake light prblem but mine is quite different than what has been posted in that althopugh these lights are on 100% of the time there is Nothing & I mean nothing wrong with my brakes( I have had the recall done) It was after that the the lights started coming on. now they just stay on. And because I still have brakes as the factory intended makes me think sensors right away. I also have a fewe of the other problems but I am just supplying info that I have personally about the Brakes. Last winter I was on my way to work and was in a left turn lane on a snowy Jan.day, & the left turn light gave me the right of way & as ther were 2 lanes turning, I was in the right, when some idiot tried to jump out from the oncome lanes to make a righ. This put him right in the path of my grill. I jammed on the brake & before I could repond to the act of realeasing the lockup, the ABS took over & I was able to steer out of his way. What made this even more interesting is that this personslmmed his brakes & stopped dead in front of me instead of carrying on. When I came to a stop, my bumper was about a foot awat from his drivers door. I gave thanks to Ford's ABS & gave no more thought to these two idiot lights on the Dash. My "Beast" is an 02 SEL with just over 100,000 klicks. I just love her& unless she burns to the ground, I will drive her until one of us is dead. I have never been a Ford Gal but I just love this Van. It is really to bad that something that is as beautiful & comfortable as these are should have so many problems. If the gremlins such as rear windows & door lock etc do not inconvienence me, then I will just keep on trukin'. hehehe. Not much choice as I am on a pension & no big bucks for repairs & I am too honest to attempt to sell her without telling future buyers about these problems. Any way people THANK-YOU :D;) :shades:
  • dkroondkroon Member Posts: 2
    one day i went to start my van and the key turned all around went and bought new one still did same thing the ignition switch rod is broke it appears you have to take steering wheel off cant seem to get it off help with that please thanks :(:(
  • frances73frances73 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2003 windstar once i start driving i hear 5 dings 5 times no lights come on and is a different ding from the turn signal on or the keys or the door. please help
  • jccdjccd Member Posts: 2
    there is a module mounted to the bottom of your master cylinder that is get soak with brake flood or water. they sale an adapter to go on here to keep this from happening. this will take care of your problem
  • jccdjccd Member Posts: 2
    There is a module plugged into the bottom of your master cyl. the dealership will sell you a extension cable to use that will fix these problems. the module on there now is getting wet and shorting out
  • felmcnelfelmcnel Member Posts: 2
    From the sounds of it is the Rem. This is the same problem we are having in the 2003 model and the casings on everything are good. On the downside, it seems that the drain has also destroyed our battery.
  • felmcnelfelmcnel Member Posts: 2
    Ok so here is the deal with the 2003 ford windstars. First, you need to go to the ford website and look up recalls. Enter your vin in. Apparently for the 2003 ford windstar there is a recall for the scds and the abs module. Both of which could be causing the drain on the battery. The other night when my van was completely drained, there was smoke emitting from the engine even though I know for a fact the engine is fine because we jumped it and it started right up. However, it seems that this problem has also destroyed my battery causing it to leak. Beware of this issue, take your van in for the recall before doing anything else to it.
  • snoopymattsnoopymatt Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    While driving to work the other day, I noticed (almost immediately) that there was a CHECK TRACTION CONTROL message on my 2000 Windstar SEL. I have NEVER seen this in my almost 12 years of driving this vehicle. I pressed the Traction button on and off. Then, the message screen and odometer went blank. Along the 16 mile trip to work (going about 60 mph) warning lights appeard on the dash ( I think ABS, check engine, etc). About 15 miles into the trip, the radio went dead. I realized the turn signals were dead. Then the van sputtered....I thought it died completely but I was able to idle in the berm (accelerator did nothing). I idled 1 mile into work. I parked it and tried to start 30 seconds later. It DID turn over (but not strong)....would not start.

    I called Ford and was going to have it towed. About 3 hours later, right before called for a tow, I decided to start the van.....I started like nothing happened!!!!

    Worked fine the entire weekend and so far this week.

    The ONLY thing I notice that isn't right.....the Windshield Wipers are not moving as fast as they used to in HIGH speed....also, the Fan (for heater and A/C) is not blowing as fast as it used to (you drive a vehicle for 12 years....you know the sounds and what is and is not normal).

    The day it died, we had a snowstorm and I was driving in snow and slush. I also got snow on my keys.

    Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any suggestions before I take to Ford? Will Ford be able to look back at "history" and see if there were error codes?

    Thanks!
  • eddiefalero1eddiefalero1 Member Posts: 9
    sounds like the slush made its way into the compartment where your BAC is at by rear passenger behind the taillights and it shorted out the brain. this will cause your alternator to go bas and also kill cells in your battery. happens to me every heavy rainfall. replace the module twice then seald that bad boy up... no more problems.
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    What are REM & BAC? And where are they? :confuse: :confuse:
  • tiwindstartiwindstar Member Posts: 1
    This sounds very familiar because a similiar situation happened to me in the rain.

    The dash lights flashed on and off twice, then an ABS and Airbag light illuminated before all the dash lights and headlights went out. The van sputtered as if it were dying and as I pulled off the road it died. I got a jumpstart and it died 150 feet later. I got another jumpstart and drove it home (5 miles). After returning home I shut it off and restarted it with no problem or jumper cables. I used an expensive handheld professional code reader/diagnostic tool to try and find the problem or codes, and while using the tool got an extreme low battery indication. It died and required a jumpstart. I checked the battery voltage while it was running and it was low (9V). I disconnected the battery cables and it died; an indicator of a bad alternator.

    Now for the fix. I replaced the alternator and have had no other problems.
  • lawpainlawpain Member Posts: 1
    I just had this very same problem in my 2000 winstar. The backup lights are now working again, and the bucking is gone by replacing the ignition wires. However, after fixing that issue they shop had to take out the relay switch because the interior lights were drawing on the battery. Still haven't quite figured out the entire problem.
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    This what is happening on a fairly regular basis. I have replaced the Battery & the Altenator (non Ford). This was done after the van finally left me flat on the side of the road (I have an 02 SEL) @ which time I found out that the Alt had crapped out but a few months later the Batter packed it in. I am a pensioner and really cannot afford to have the dealership spend days to track down these little idiosyncosies(sp???), so does anyone have any idea where ot look. It is annoying & tiring to have to stop the car every time the battery light comes on, pull over & shut the van dow & restart it. If I drive with it like that before long the lights start to dim & there is a definate problem but I can't figure it out. Iknow that the ABS & Serv. Brake light being on I just ignore because I knowe that it is a sensor problem as I know for absolute sure that the ABS brakes work! Found this out the hard way. lol Anyway if anyone can help me with the "Check Charging system" light, I really be grateful.
  • bulldog67bulldog67 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    What I gleaned from your post is that your battery has enough gumption to turn your engine over and start. Sounds like the battery is good. I know you said you changed the alternator. you may want to check ALL the connections for tightness and corrosion. The ground strap is overlooked so many times its legendary. Check both ends of it. Everyone checks the battery end because its convenient, but what about the other end? Additionally, you mentioned sensor problems. Without knowing exactly what is causing the ABS light to come on, you may want to consider that it is a symptom that correlates with the alternator problem or it may be an actual brake problem, or it may be a sensor(s) problem that is hidden by another problem. More than one thing can be acting up. Process of elimination, hang tough. The cars nowadays depend on a solid electrical system to run properly. Loose that and the fun begins. Good Luck!
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    Thanks Bulldog, but Battery is brand new as is the cables & alt. From what I have read on this particular Ford, this is a common problem on these wonderful (not sarcastic) old Vans. In my case I have had it in and out of the shop & on different scopes & gauges with no results but like my mech say it cvould take months to find which sesor is bad. I know for sure that the ABS is full functioning as it should as I found out the hard way this past winter in a miserable rainy day when I had an idiot pull out in front of me & when I layed on the brakes the ABS acually WORKED. There is some relay in the charging system that I need to investigate when I have some extra cash but for now I just pull off the road when my "check charging system" light comes on & shut "The Beast" down & wait 60 sec, restart & go merrily on my way. Thankfully I am one old Broad that knows a thing or two about vehicles as I have been a car nut(&bike)almost all my life, so I will just keep any ear out & if I get any difinitive answers will post them here. This is my first Ford but it won't be my last. I only wish I could find so nice moulded running boards fo the 02 Windstars? :shades: :D:D
  • 2doorvan2doorvan Member Posts: 1
    Okay, I have read a boatload of these messages but they seem a bit scattered so I am asking this in hopes of someone giving me a straightforward answer. I awhile back, my heater in the front would come one but only cold air. I checked the metal hoses and read all over internet. Found that issue and fixed it. Then the rear vents blew only hot air when even teh AC was on. I was told it was the switch in the dash board. I changed it. No difference, so I put the orginal one back in. Then, I went to the rear and changed out the actuator. No difference. So I took it out and for now, it blows only cold air. I'll fixthat later but that makes it not the actuator's fault. So now I have a new problem. I am driving the van around with the AC on. At the stop light, the odometer fades and comes back, fades and comes back. The radio stops for a second. I drive the car wherever I am going, including 60 miles away and no problem as far as the engine cutting out. But once theer, it's a crapshoot whether it will start or not. I carry a jump box with me everywhere thank goodness. So, when I leave the house in the morning, I do not use the AC. I get to work and can get it to start up for the drive home. If I turn on AC, I know it will be dead by the time I get home. Oh, and the windshield wipers would start without using the switch. I took the alternator to a shop and they tested it and it comes out fine. When it is in the car and the tester is hooked up to battery, it shows regular charging then drops to 9V. I need help so my wife will stop going nuts and threatenig to sell the van. Other than this recent crud, it is a good van. Someone said maybe PCmM because it could be voltage regulation and my alternator is not internal. Thanks!
  • marshallmillermarshallmiller Member Posts: 2
  • marshallmillermarshallmiller Member Posts: 2
    Recently my wife was driving "ole reliable" when it shut off, she waited 10 started it and drove about 5 miles and it quite again. just stopped no fan, no radio, nothing (but no noise at all). when it was towed home, I popped the hood and started charging the battery (which was dead). has soon as I started I heard a noise from in the car....... #1 relay interior chattering, so I pulled it, then #2 chattered, pulled it #3 chattered.... all the way through #4 then it stopped. allowed charger to charge the battery(after I diconnected it) and reinstalled the relays. after battery was charged hooked it up, same damn thing. I did recently have the ground repaired between the fuel pump and pcm, but other then that flawless. any ideas?
  • tomchitomchi Member Posts: 9
    Currently on my fourth battery. Symptoms were blinking of interior lights and failure of lights to go off after vehicle parked. In addition, I once made a 75 mile drive with the instrument gauges going absolutely crazy. Ford dealer later reported only 8 volts on the instrument bus. In addition, if the rear blower control on the dash is left on after parking for the night, the battery will be dead the next morning. Oh, and I still see periodic flickering of the odometer readout but so far battery number 4 is OK.
  • tomchitomchi Member Posts: 9
    The right sliding door is powered. Periodically, it will fail locked and a passenger is trapped until the door is opened manually. I discovered that the door control has amnesia and has to be retrained by opening and closing it often.
  • bdoncabdonca Member Posts: 1
    I purchased an 03 Windstar Limited as a second vehicle about four years ago. Every now and then the interior lights would start flashing on and off – by themselves! Very strange. Once the vehicle was shut off and restarted the lights stopped flashing. I did notice that the flashing interior light syndrome always seemed to occur when it was raining or very damp. Temperature did not seem to be a factor. Since the occasional flashing on and off of the interior was lights seemed a relatively minor issue, we chalked it up to the ghost of old Henry Ford just having a little fun with us.

    It did occur to me, however, that the cause of the problem had to be a door switch or sensor that was being affected by moisture and/or and an accumulation of dirt. This could produce a signal that the vehicle’s onboard computer might interpret as an open door. The most likely candidates were the multiple contacts on the power sliding side doors. These contacts, there are 7 on a Windstar Limited, are open to the elements and can easily become damp and/or dirty. So, the next several times that the interior lights began to flash on and off, I simple cleaned the sliding door contacts. A little isopropyl alcohol on a clean cloth and the careful cleaning of each of the contacts usually kept old Henry’s ghost at bay for a month or two.

    Recently, however, this minor annoyance turned into a major electrical issue. Out of the blue the battery kept discharging. When this first happened, I noticed that the interior lights had remained on. After charging the battery, at which point the engine started without hesitation, I shut the engine off, exited the vehicle, and locked the doors. The interior lights, however, did not shut off. Even when I turned the interior lights off using the timer wheel on the dash, the interior lights stayed on until I used the remote to lock the doors. I discovered later, when again the battery had almost completely discharged, that although the dome lights were off, the foot lights had remained on.

    The alternator had recently been replaced but once the engine was started the battery recharged. So, the charging system itself was not an issue. Being that the battery is original (yes, it’s 10 years old) I did suspect that it may be on its last legs. I removed the battery, cleaned the posts and terminals, recharged it and performed a load test. The battery tested good. I also again thoroughly cleaned all of the sliding door electrical contacts. The battery is no longer discharging and the interior lights function exactly as they should.

    The Bottom Line

    I suspect that most of the problems associated with the Windstar’s electrical systems may indeed be the result of misinformation being provided to the vehicles on-board monitoring systems by poor sliding side door electrical contacts. So here’s what I suggest for those folks who are experiencing the flashing interior light syndrome and/or a battery that keeps discharging:

    1 - Remove the battery from the vehicle
    2 - Leave the battery out of the vehicle for at least 2 hours. This should clear any false codes or light settings that may have been prompted by poor sliding door connections.
    3 - Thoroughly clean the battery posts and battery cable terminals
    4 - Charge the battery (If possible have it load tested as well)
    5 - Clean all of the sliding door electrical contacts (both the spring loaded contacts in the doors and the stationary contacts on the door pillars).
    6 - Reinstall the battery
    7 - Start the engine and check voltage across the battery posts (should be at least 13.2 volts or higher)
    8 - You will need to reset the information display (language, units of measure, fuel mileage, outside temp, etc.) as your original settings will have lost when the battery was removed.

    No guarantee folks but this worked on my Windstar. Good luck.

    BD
  • mikem604mikem604 Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    I just had the same problem this week: 3 power door locks were inop, (drivers door power lock worked), gas gauge went wacky, interior lights would not shut off with out using cluster dimmer, all rear lights, rear ac fan controls all stopped working. I checked all fuses and grounds, all were ok.

    I installed a 2000 windstar Rem YF2T-13b524-AA I did NOT have to get this reprogrammed either as many people had said i would have to.
    This was a $30.00 part at a local U-Pull it Bone yard

    Original Rem was a 2F2T-13b524-AA . Im Very disappointed of this typed of failure as i only have 106000 Miles on it and could have caused a major accident as there was no indication my brake lights or signals were not working.
    I think the key to interchanging rems may be make sure the donor has all the same features as yours or those features may not work.
  • killeenvkilleenv Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Windstar. Every Morning we have to boost it. we can turn it off right away and it will start again. We replaced the battery 3 times and it killed them too in 4 days. as long as we start it every 4 hours it starts no problem, We've turn off all electrical, not using the automatic doors, radio or interior lights. Still dead after 4 hours. We recently replaced the wiper motor and coil pack and this problem started after we did so. No check engine light comes on, no warning at all and once running there are no problems at all even says that the charging system is running fine. Removed the automatic start that was installed that our Mechanic said might be the problem didn't help.

    Have any idea that might help find the problem
  • fystywindstarfystywindstar Member Posts: 24
    I solved almost all my problem but most importantly the charginging problem by replacing the battery as well as the altenator. But be sure to replace with non Ford parts. I used Puralator for the alt. I have had this done for almost a year now & I have had no more electrical problems. I still have a lot of sensor problems but as long as the systems they monitor are working, I am not concerned as it is too expensive to search out & replace these sensors. (ABS for example) :)
  • childwildchildwild Member Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    I have a 2002 Ford Windstar and ever time l plug my trailer, or camper to it.Then turn on the running light, then put a blinker on. Then all the lights on what my car is pluged into, blinks. I hooked up another truck to it. And didnt do anything.
    Cant find what. Any answer thanks jon
  • jonnypaganjonnypagan Member Posts: 3
    He everyone, I have a 2001 SEL and have been having alot of the same problems that alot of otheres have. I took mine into the local Ford store and found that most of these electrical problems have started because the Powertrain Control Module seal had broken allowing moisture to get into it causes alot of warning lights and run rough etc.....
    We had Ford reseal it and all has been well now for a few weeks. Something to perhaps check into yourselves.
    Like alot of you I cannot afford to go buy another vehicle and my wife and I both love the practicality of the Windstar.
    Hope this helps someone else out.
  • br_princessbr_princess Member Posts: 1
    How much did they charge for labor?
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