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Regardless, the clicking you hear is not under the dashboard its behind the radio. Basically it is an actuator with a bunch of gears that adjusts a trap door that controls the amount of heat/ac coming out through your vents. The "AC BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR" as it is called is known to fail.
The clicking you are hearing are gears in that actuator not catching...
There are directions on how to fix that on this website..
http://www.lifeasbob.com/CategoryView,category,Cars%2B,%2BWindstar.aspx
Scroll down to where it says NO HEAT..
The check Engine light is most likely the MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR which can be found in the air box where the engine air filter is located.
Try cleaning it...
http://www.berrysweb.com/clean_your_maf.htm
If not research the specific codes that ADVANCE AUTO PARTS is pulling up with their device!
Your brake light coming on is probably due to low fluid, also you should have had the cruise control deactivation switch recall repair completed...
Check to see if you have open recalls
http://owner.ford.com/servlet/ContentServer?pagename=Owner/Page/RecallsPage
Now, last week, I went to put some rack & pinion conditioner in the power steering and realized I was out. I closed the hood and finished the yard work, but while I was mowing the back yard, my wife went to the store and I had left the cap off the power steering fluid. What a mess, but now I had room to put a bottle of conditioner in it.
That helped for a couple of days till my wife called and said that the van died. The lights flickered and the a/c stopped working and it completely died when she stopped at the bank. She waited a few minutes and it started so she drove it back to our church. This was on Tuesday.
On Wednesday, after Church, I got in it, started it, high rpms idling, left the parking lot, kept a/c and radio off, headlight on, gauge lights started to dim, still running high rpms. about a mile down the road the gauge lights were really dim and then the headlights and taillights went out. I made the right turn, then the left onto my street. Drove about 1/8 more mile and the engine finaly quit and I coasted into my driveway. The gauge lights were very dim, but would not go off even when the key was out and I opened the door. No locks or lights worked so I had to manually lock the doors.
Any ideas? 106,000 miles, but we have babied this thing.
at the same time a little while ago
Our 2001 SEL has 221,000 miles and counting..
Oh and a major fail on your part!!
FORD WINDSTARS TAKE ATF (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID) in the POWER STEERING.
SO IF YOU HAVE POWER STEERING FLUID running in it, PLAN on purchasing a new RACK AND PINON
It was almost 1 1/2 years ago when we replaced the alternator last, so you are saying this is what I probably have to look forward to every 1 1/2 years? Great!
I drained out the P/S reservoir and put new Ford ATF (whatever was recommend in the manual.). Anyways it initially would growl and be hard to turn. Topping off as I was turning the wheel back and forth, it hasn't given me problems.
Anyways...
My rear windows stopped working. The passenger window broke AGAIN after it was fixed a few years ago. (we owned another 01' Windstar where the Passenger window did not function either)
The door lock actuators have basically crapped out, the front cheaper and easier to replace. The back actuators are a PITA to replace.
Overall we got 220k miles out of that van and it is still there....
Problems I have had with this van that i DIY (Living in Florida)
Sensors
IAC
MAF
DPFE
------
Upper Intake Bolts/Seals
Clogged EGR metering ports
Intermittent working windows.
Failing Door Lock Actuators
ABS/BRAKE light, failure of ABS module
Failure of Sway Bar Links (Clunk when turning at low speeds)
AC Blend Door Actuator
Door Ajar Warning (initially thought it was sensor, turned out to be a shorted wire in the door wiring harness)
Spark Plugs
Coil Pack
Multiple
Alternators
Batteries
New Battery Wire Harness
Rock in Rad/AC fan assembly
Pigtail tail light and turning signal connections
---
Other common problems lie with Failure of Transmission....
.
Remember you said you just purchased it..
LET THE PROBLEMS BEGIN =D
I live in the South so I don't have these axle snappings or rust problems...
visit
www.fordwindstarrecall.info
and read about the ABS module failure. Also report this Brake issue to http://www.nhtsa.gov/
Here's how the breakdown goes every time: for several weeks the warning lights get intermittently wonky (brake, seat belt and ABS warning lights come on and off randomly), next there will be incidents of gauges swinging wildly, A/C turning off, electric doors/windows failing, and then soon afterwards the engine (in the middle of driving just fine) starts to sputter, then dies, with the alternator dead and battery drained. After each alternator replacement, my regular mechanic then 2 different dealer mechanics said they checked every electrical wire circuit, connection, etc., and found nothing wrong - just sent us on our way with an "all fixed."
I know many would have dumped this van already, but we can't afford to replace it and need a way to transport elderly parents and pets who don't fit into our little Kia sedan. At this point, though, even with 11K miles left on the dealer's repair warranty, it's a safety issue to have elderly and pets on board if/when it breaks down again.
For now I'm driving with a battery/alternator tester plugged in at all times, hoping at least I'll KNOW when the alternator fries and can get to a safe place before the engine dies. The tester shines green (good) at first, then changes to green and yellow (low) after a few minutes of driving. It may be unrelated, but there is sometimes bad radio interference for awhile after the AC fan is turned on, and lately the AC takes about 10 minutes to blow cold air.
Does anyone have any suggestions for fixes we can try before we get rid of this van? I don't even feel right selling it, because I'm sure that's what the previous owners did, passing their misery on to us when we bought it. I don't want to do that to someone else.
Thanks in advance!
As of now, the van is running great. Like you said, it rides and handles well. My wife loves it other than the electrical issues.
We just got a new alternator installed.
I only have a few suggestions:
1. Make sure the wire going from the battery to the fuse box goes under the air filter box. This was the beginning of my misery. This caused the short which drained my first battery and killed the alternator. They recharged the battery and put in a new alternator, but the battery did not last long.
2. Along with the new alternator, get a new battery.
3. Replace the Rear Electronic Module.
4. Replace the wiring harness if you notice any part of it that may seem burned. This is a short and will drain your battery and kill your alternator. Remember to put mechanics grease on all electric terminals.
5. Check the timing and any other routine maintenance items (again, I'm not a mechanic).
Every couple of days I am checking the battery because this seems to be where my problems stem from. If your Windstar is fully loaded like mine, then there are many things that can drain the battery. I hope this helps and you can do many of these things on your own. My wiring harness was from the Ford dealer and cost me $120, I put it on myself in about 30 minutes. I put a new starter on before that, but only to find that the battery was dead (mechanic told me it was the starter). This started the downward spiral of the alternator. The battery was dead because the wiring harness was bent at the fuse box instead of coming out straight and going under the air filter box.
Sorry for the rambling.
Our local mechanic has resolved this issue for us by installing a battery kill switch, like they use to use on hot rods. Our mechanic did not disturb the original battery cables, he ran separate cables off of the battery for the kill switch. When you are ready to park the van for the night, shut everything off (lights, radio, heater), turn the van off and then turn the kill switch key. The next morning, turn the kill switch key on and the van fires right up. We have been testing this for a week now and have not had any problems with it.
No more headaches of having to constantly jump start it. It may be a work around for the real issue but it was a lot cheaper than continually replacing batteries and alternators.
If you need more information on it let us know and we will see if our mechanic would talk to your mechanic but can't promise anything.
And my AC is not working...just blowing air, and my locks will lock everything except the driver side as it will lock and then pop up. I have to lock it manually. And one of my rear side windows still won't open. So I will have to call the mechanic on Monday and see where that goes. Otherwise, it's running good now.
Seems I'm not the only one with this hobby : OWNING A WINDSTAR!!! What happens is this light on dash is always on, shape of a lightbulb with a ! ... and ABS, Brake light, and engine light come on randomly. Front wipers only work if I click them to the last two speeds (fast and berserk!) Headlights on ''ON'' position, left has high beam while right beam is simply on, and if I push the beam lever forward (always High beam) the left one will turn off while the right one goes high, as if they're one position away one from the other. Power locks also have a problem (driver door won't lock and none work if keys are not in ignition)..
The other day, all warning lights came on and stayed on after starting the van but the rest of dash stayed off and all gauges stayed down (RPM, Speed, Gas, Temperature...) front beams werent working but the 'daylights' were on.
Can someone help me with where to look, if you've had or worked on similar problems ?!
Thank you so much and good luck with yours!
Now I have read most every article on the various problems & it seems that I have a problem related to the ABS/Brake light prblem but mine is quite different than what has been posted in that althopugh these lights are on 100% of the time there is Nothing & I mean nothing wrong with my brakes( I have had the recall done) It was after that the the lights started coming on. now they just stay on. And because I still have brakes as the factory intended makes me think sensors right away. I also have a fewe of the other problems but I am just supplying info that I have personally about the Brakes. Last winter I was on my way to work and was in a left turn lane on a snowy Jan.day, & the left turn light gave me the right of way & as ther were 2 lanes turning, I was in the right, when some idiot tried to jump out from the oncome lanes to make a righ. This put him right in the path of my grill. I jammed on the brake & before I could repond to the act of realeasing the lockup, the ABS took over & I was able to steer out of his way. What made this even more interesting is that this personslmmed his brakes & stopped dead in front of me instead of carrying on. When I came to a stop, my bumper was about a foot awat from his drivers door. I gave thanks to Ford's ABS & gave no more thought to these two idiot lights on the Dash. My "Beast" is an 02 SEL with just over 100,000 klicks. I just love her& unless she burns to the ground, I will drive her until one of us is dead. I have never been a Ford Gal but I just love this Van. It is really to bad that something that is as beautiful & comfortable as these are should have so many problems. If the gremlins such as rear windows & door lock etc do not inconvienence me, then I will just keep on trukin'. hehehe. Not much choice as I am on a pension & no big bucks for repairs & I am too honest to attempt to sell her without telling future buyers about these problems. Any way people THANK-YOU :shades:
While driving to work the other day, I noticed (almost immediately) that there was a CHECK TRACTION CONTROL message on my 2000 Windstar SEL. I have NEVER seen this in my almost 12 years of driving this vehicle. I pressed the Traction button on and off. Then, the message screen and odometer went blank. Along the 16 mile trip to work (going about 60 mph) warning lights appeard on the dash ( I think ABS, check engine, etc). About 15 miles into the trip, the radio went dead. I realized the turn signals were dead. Then the van sputtered....I thought it died completely but I was able to idle in the berm (accelerator did nothing). I idled 1 mile into work. I parked it and tried to start 30 seconds later. It DID turn over (but not strong)....would not start.
I called Ford and was going to have it towed. About 3 hours later, right before called for a tow, I decided to start the van.....I started like nothing happened!!!!
Worked fine the entire weekend and so far this week.
The ONLY thing I notice that isn't right.....the Windshield Wipers are not moving as fast as they used to in HIGH speed....also, the Fan (for heater and A/C) is not blowing as fast as it used to (you drive a vehicle for 12 years....you know the sounds and what is and is not normal).
The day it died, we had a snowstorm and I was driving in snow and slush. I also got snow on my keys.
Does this sound familiar to anyone? Any suggestions before I take to Ford? Will Ford be able to look back at "history" and see if there were error codes?
Thanks!
The dash lights flashed on and off twice, then an ABS and Airbag light illuminated before all the dash lights and headlights went out. The van sputtered as if it were dying and as I pulled off the road it died. I got a jumpstart and it died 150 feet later. I got another jumpstart and drove it home (5 miles). After returning home I shut it off and restarted it with no problem or jumper cables. I used an expensive handheld professional code reader/diagnostic tool to try and find the problem or codes, and while using the tool got an extreme low battery indication. It died and required a jumpstart. I checked the battery voltage while it was running and it was low (9V). I disconnected the battery cables and it died; an indicator of a bad alternator.
Now for the fix. I replaced the alternator and have had no other problems.
It did occur to me, however, that the cause of the problem had to be a door switch or sensor that was being affected by moisture and/or and an accumulation of dirt. This could produce a signal that the vehicle’s onboard computer might interpret as an open door. The most likely candidates were the multiple contacts on the power sliding side doors. These contacts, there are 7 on a Windstar Limited, are open to the elements and can easily become damp and/or dirty. So, the next several times that the interior lights began to flash on and off, I simple cleaned the sliding door contacts. A little isopropyl alcohol on a clean cloth and the careful cleaning of each of the contacts usually kept old Henry’s ghost at bay for a month or two.
Recently, however, this minor annoyance turned into a major electrical issue. Out of the blue the battery kept discharging. When this first happened, I noticed that the interior lights had remained on. After charging the battery, at which point the engine started without hesitation, I shut the engine off, exited the vehicle, and locked the doors. The interior lights, however, did not shut off. Even when I turned the interior lights off using the timer wheel on the dash, the interior lights stayed on until I used the remote to lock the doors. I discovered later, when again the battery had almost completely discharged, that although the dome lights were off, the foot lights had remained on.
The alternator had recently been replaced but once the engine was started the battery recharged. So, the charging system itself was not an issue. Being that the battery is original (yes, it’s 10 years old) I did suspect that it may be on its last legs. I removed the battery, cleaned the posts and terminals, recharged it and performed a load test. The battery tested good. I also again thoroughly cleaned all of the sliding door electrical contacts. The battery is no longer discharging and the interior lights function exactly as they should.
The Bottom Line
I suspect that most of the problems associated with the Windstar’s electrical systems may indeed be the result of misinformation being provided to the vehicles on-board monitoring systems by poor sliding side door electrical contacts. So here’s what I suggest for those folks who are experiencing the flashing interior light syndrome and/or a battery that keeps discharging:
1 - Remove the battery from the vehicle
2 - Leave the battery out of the vehicle for at least 2 hours. This should clear any false codes or light settings that may have been prompted by poor sliding door connections.
3 - Thoroughly clean the battery posts and battery cable terminals
4 - Charge the battery (If possible have it load tested as well)
5 - Clean all of the sliding door electrical contacts (both the spring loaded contacts in the doors and the stationary contacts on the door pillars).
6 - Reinstall the battery
7 - Start the engine and check voltage across the battery posts (should be at least 13.2 volts or higher)
8 - You will need to reset the information display (language, units of measure, fuel mileage, outside temp, etc.) as your original settings will have lost when the battery was removed.
No guarantee folks but this worked on my Windstar. Good luck.
BD
I installed a 2000 windstar Rem YF2T-13b524-AA I did NOT have to get this reprogrammed either as many people had said i would have to.
This was a $30.00 part at a local U-Pull it Bone yard
Original Rem was a 2F2T-13b524-AA . Im Very disappointed of this typed of failure as i only have 106000 Miles on it and could have caused a major accident as there was no indication my brake lights or signals were not working.
I think the key to interchanging rems may be make sure the donor has all the same features as yours or those features may not work.
Have any idea that might help find the problem
Cant find what. Any answer thanks jon
We had Ford reseal it and all has been well now for a few weeks. Something to perhaps check into yourselves.
Like alot of you I cannot afford to go buy another vehicle and my wife and I both love the practicality of the Windstar.
Hope this helps someone else out.