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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems

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Comments

  • jmilnerjmilner Member Posts: 1
    Hi Friends,
    I, like the rest of you made the mistake of buying a Chrysler. My rear brake caliper stuck on the way back to Ohio in the Virginia, W.V. mountains on a sat. afternoon. I'm at about 38K, second set of brakes, but bought an expensive extended warranty. We called Chrysler, and they couldn't care less. They didn't even know about their warranty. I had 7 people in my van, and they endangered us with their careless attitude. The worst part is I took it to a Chrysler dealer at Mrytle Beach and told them the caliper was bad. They proceded to replace the brake shims, charge me $100 and told me it was ok. LET'S NOT WASTE ANY MORE TIME, WHO KNOWS HOW TO SUE THESE CLOWNS?
  • gbrittgbritt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan and the left side sliding door is locked and will not open by electronic button and you cannot force the lock up to manually open! I have disconnected battery for several minutes - nothing changed. Any suggestions?
  • 3boys1girl3boys1girl Member Posts: 3
    We bought and 08 in May of '08. Took it back after about 1 1/2 months for it's first 3,000 mile oil change. Told I could not take it home radiator was leaking. Seven days later it was fixed. Doors never closed on an incline many visits for that. At 6,000 miles needed new front brakes and rotors. Chrysler paid. Nav system has never worked right. Freezes up and you can't work anything including radio until turned off and "resets"itself. Four nav systems later it is still happing. Air conditioning didn't work blew hot air. Told hose was too short and needed to be replaced. They finally recalled that one! Then another set of rotors and brakes for the back! chrysler wouldn't pay this time! Car had less than 12,000 miles by the time all of this happened. Car now have 38,000 miles on it and is falling apart literally! three sets of front brakes and two sets of rotors. Two sets of back brakes and rotors. Car sounds like it is whistling air when on the highway. Told me they can't hear it. Car makes creaking sound when accelerating and driving they think it could be tie rods or wheel hub. The other day I had to have it towed to the dealer because it smelled like it was burning and started to chug. They said it was a bad radiator cap! Today I have a loud grinding noise as I drive. What's next? I think it will be the transmission. New shifted right but they said nothing was wrong. Jolts if you slow down but don't stop and then press on the gas again. I would dump it if I could. My mom had an '08 carvan and has not had a single problem I have. Guess I should of bought the caravan or the odessy!
  • noni4noni4 Member Posts: 6
    I hear you... I haven't had the radiator problem, but still have problems with the Nav. system. Most of the time just give up on trying to find things, I had two radio's replaced with the system as you say, sometimes doesn't even come on and waits to re-set. I've said from the beginning that the air didn't work correctly and I was told by the mechanic it was fine, I did not get a re-call on that one. I came across the front strut and brake problem early also, I think about 10,000 miles, the warranty covered that but shortly after I took it back for who knows what and the Technician told me, "whoever put those new struts on did a shabby job," I actually laughed and said, "Tony, your guys put them on." I also have the trans problem now, I get the jolting and now I have the reving sound. Oh also, I had the smoking of the rear brakes and it was the calibur that was stuck. Yeah, fear this car!!! :lemon:
  • bbjohnbbjohn Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a used 2008 T&C Tourning with 15,000 miles. My wife heard break noise on the drive home from the dealer. We took it back in and they said we need pads/rotors for both front and rear. We took it in at 6pm and they also said the battery was dead the next morning so the replaced the battery as well. All of this is being replaced at no charge to me so that is good.

    Question - are they replacing the pads/rotors with the same junk or do the have some new parts that actually work?

    Ugh, I just got rid of my 2002 olds minivan. I had basically zero problems in 100,000 miles and now I am going to this Chrysler and it appears I am in for lots of problems over the next 5 years...
  • noni4noni4 Member Posts: 6
    The problem that I came accross is the brakes themselves. They are some kind of ceramic and the grind down quickly. I have already put in three sets of brakes and I just turned 50,000 miles. I have trans problems now, seems to be stuck in third and won't shift to overdrive. Then of course, since I live in the midwest and all that rain, I ALWAYS have a pounding underneath my car when driving even in the mist type. My panels on the exterior are becoming loose AGAIN :confuse: seems I'm told that's the way they are, never seen it on other cars. The automatic seat on exit no longer works, who knows why. I'm taking it in soon along with a burly guy..

    Good luck on your purchase, I don't wish any of this on anyone else. I hope Chrysler has some redeeming qualities.
  • jimryanjimryan Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem intermittently. We just keep trying. Usually within 3 times it starts. If you find the solution please update the forum.
  • 3boys1girl3boys1girl Member Posts: 3
    My T&C has hit a new low, FLAMES shooting out of the front passanger side tire! Four kids and myself in the car! Finally Chrysler is going to investigate my car.
  • mumuv3mumuv3 Member Posts: 1
    My drivers window (03 chrysler town and country) has not worked for some time. I have opened the motor in the past and cleaned out inside and moved the coiled wires which I read on another post. This worked for several months. At one point it was stuck down again and i hit the door to try to get it to work. This caused all windows to stop working- even with their own switches. My vehicle was due for inspection so I just took it in for repair. They said they replaced the drivers window switch which fixed all other windows except the drivers door- which they want to replace the window motor in. Wouldn't the windows have worked with their own switches if I had caused damage to the drivers switch? I'm thinking they probably changed a fuse and charged me for a switch. ????
  • micheller1micheller1 Member Posts: 1
    I too have experienced many of the problems listed on this forum: Everything electric would just stop working, brake problems (front pads and rotors, back pads) all before 22K miles, the loud ticking noise from the exhaust (I guess maybe it is the catalytic converter.....I was told that was a "normal" noise), and the sliding doors that kept popping open. On the up side, the electrical and door problems seem to have been resolved. I am taking it in again this week (I am around 28,000 miles) because my van is becoming increasingly noisy when I drive it. A very loud reverberation/hum shows up around 35mph, and gets noisier with increased speeds. Now I am scared it is the aforementioned bearings problem. I also had some trouble this winter with the vehicle lurching. I thought maybe it was moisture in the fuel lines, since I live in a cold climate and tend to let my tank get pretty empty before refuelling, but now I am worried it could be the transmission problem others have experienced. I have also noticed when I try to shift into drive, sometimes it is stiff/tight, and I have trouble getting it to go down to that final position of the gear shift on the dash. Anyone else familiar with that?
  • jlhaah1jlhaah1 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact problem. About four days ago, noticed that the passenger window would not go down. A couple of days later, it started working again. Now last evening, the van would only give me a clicking sound when tried to start it. So you think it's the battery? Is it a bad battery or is something not charging the battery as it should? I haven't gotten a battery light inside.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Clicking sound when trying to start is usually battery or starter.

    How old is your battery? Where are you located? 5+ year old battery plus hot weather could mean it's time for a new one, though I've usually gotten 7-8 years of service out of an OEM battery.
  • cfransencfransen Member Posts: 6
    Our pinging noise we had when we turned off our engine to our Chrysler 2008 T&C was a result of a bad catalytic converter and/or resonator as per a Chrysler service bulletin through dealer connect/service/tech connect/case #K82543424.

    I had to find this info on my own. I was stopping everyone who owned a Chrysler T&C asking about the clicking noise. I even had a lady who was going to go to the dealer with her T&C that didn't click to show them that they don't all do that. It was a horrific 13 months of researching etc.

    Hope you can get yours fixed.
    Charlene Fransen
  • plasticman3plasticman3 Member Posts: 1
    Like many of T & C owners, I have gone through several sets of brakes and rotors. Chrysler finally woke up and is giving a partial refund for the repair work done under 36000 miles. Now, the rear airconditioner line assembly is leaking and it cost me over $400.00 to get it repaired. I have sent the bills to Chrysler asking for a rebate. Will let you know how I make out. Also, I have never been happy with the way the transmission shifts when the engine is cold. Dealer said it is normal due to some new design in the "torque convertor". Sounds like B. S. to me.
  • itoyltitoylt Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 T&C. I have had electric problems for the last seven months which has gotten worse. Initially it started out with the panel lights flickering, then the reading lamp going on and now the car not starting. At first the car wouldnt start then after the second or third attempt it would start then for a day it wouldnt start and now it is completely dead.All this time they would continue to diagnose however it has never corrected the problem. Now the dealership replaced what they call a module which they though for sure was the probelm however today they told me that that didnt work. They think a mouse might have gotten into the engine and chewed a wire. Sounds kind of strange since this problem has been happening for the last seven months. I just need them to fix it. I have a young son that is sick and we need to get him to medical appts and I need a car that works. Cant beleive I continue to pay my car payments and I have no car to drive. This sounds like the Toyota problem.......... last time I buy a Chrysler. I never had this problem with the Dodge
  • 3boys1girl3boys1girl Member Posts: 3
    So they investigated my car after the fire. The dealer called and said that the investigator found nothing wrong with the vehicle but after a test drive felt that it was not safe to drive! Then they asked me to have it towed off their lot. It has been 5 weeks and still no car to drive. Took it to a second dealer to find the problem and no luck. They can replicate the problem including fire, but can't seem to fix it! Chryslers solution was to replace the brakes and rotors. Done and still having same problem. If it wouldn't mess up my credit I would just stop making payments and let them come and get it!
  • bluecat25bluecat25 Member Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    I have been dealing with the power door locks not working off and on for about 3 years. When it first started, I could pull the fuse closest to the front of the driver's side (the IOD fuse, look in the lid of the fuse box.) Leave it out for a few minutes then put it back in. Your door locks will probably start working. When I first started doing this, the locks might work another 6 months - 1 year without having to do it again. Unfortunately, now my driver's window is not powering down, and when I pull the fuse it will reset the locks, but only for a very short time. I have been resetting them daily. So, I'm now trying to find a new solution. I hate to buy the new control module because everyone who has done so says it fixes nothing. Good luck everybody! I think this is a recall issue.
  • minivan_mamaminivan_mama Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2008 T&C that we leased in Nov. 2008. After about 6 months I had to have the shifter assembly replaced because it would get stuck in gear and/or park. At 17k miles I had to replace my front brake pads (naturally I'd paid my mechanic neighbor cash to have it done literally *days* before the notice came out). This summer I had to have the a/c fixed (I think that was a recall issue maybe) and at the same time they fixed a few other issues that were also recalls (wiring harness and radiator cap, I believe). At 22k miles I had to have my rear brake pads replaced. Now they squeak and squeal like you wouldn't believe, but whatever. There's a bulge in my rear bumper that gets worse when it's hot (something I noticed, but didn't really think about until I saw another complaint about it here). NOW, I'm having an issue with my power steering pump (or so they say). My whole front end grinds and groans whenever I'm turning. It started out not that bad and would go away after a few minutes. I called the dealer to schedule an appointment and was told it would take at least a day to fix it, in the meantime I was out of luck getting a loaner (even though it's still under warranty). Tried another dealer and was told the same thing about a loaner. The service manager at the 2nd dealer actually said to me that he works for the dealer, not Chrysler and he doesn't stand behind any product that Chrysler makes (and they sell!!). At that time I spoke with the dealership manager, who also told me very politely that I was going to have to pay for a rental car myself while they fixed my warranty issue because Chrysler would not reimburse them the cost of the rental (about $25 for a day). Maybe it's a coincidence that they actually have an Enterprise Rental desk in their service dept. Frustrated, I called Chrysler Headquarters and filed a complaint. They had me go to yet another dealer to get a problem code, so they could process my request for a loaner car. The 3rd dealer told me my van was fine to drive and they'd call me when my part came in. Spoke to CHQ again, who told me they were still investigating and would get back to me. In the meantime, my van now makes the grinding/growling noise constantly, it's been almost a month since I first called about the problem and I still haven't heard anything from CHQ. I'm going with the attitude that I'll drive it until the wheels fall off, or they come up with a loaner car for me. At this point, I'm fairly certain the problem is now more than just a pump, but at least I have a record that I was there for them to check it out and was told it was ok to drive (now I'm not so sure...).

    Up until this last problem, I LOVED my van (even with all the other issues) and had every intention of buying it when the lease expired. But after the crappy customer service regarding this last issue, I'm done with Chrysler. I cannot believe that Chrysler would be so willing to throw away a loyal customer (we've owned and/or leased 4 Dodges, and now this POS) over giving me a loaner car for 24 hours. The whole reason I leased the darn thing was so I wouldn't have to deal with problems like this. This is our "family" car and without it, we cannot go anywhere as a family. Heck, I can't even legally take my kids to school. Maybe I'm being a little pigheaded about getting a loaner, but come on! if I wanted to pay for a rental car every time my van needed service, I wouldn't have leased a car with a warranty. If it was a problem that could be fixed in a few hours (say between the time school starts and finishes) I also wouldn't have a problem waiting in their oh-so-comfortable (/sarcasm off) waiting room. But this whole lack of responsibility over what amounts to about $25 (for a rental for a day, or how about they just give me a freaking demo or something?!?) on the part of the original dealer and manufacturer is ridiculous.

    I wish I could go after them for the lemon law, but since all the problems are with different components, I have no recourse. I'll finish out my lease term, turn it in and then fight tooth and nail if they try to charge me that damn disposition fee...
  • stanoskistanoski Member Posts: 76
    I feel your pain MINIVAN MAMA as most of us on this list do. In less than 5 years I have had to have done: New rack and pinion (probably the cause of your grinding noise as it was mine) tie rods and bushings, both power window controls, one power sliding door control, new radiator, new alternator, several batteries, AC repairs, stereo repairs, dashboard repairs, brakes and the list goes on and on. The last time round my van was in the shop for 11 days waiting on parts. If I didnt have an extra car, Id be SOL!

    There is also a rattling sound under my van that is probably from the exhaust but no one has been able to find it yet and is common on these vans. Not sure if you have this too or not? Warrantee doesnt fix "rattles" or so it seems. Gets worse when hot and goes for about 15 seconds after you stop. No love lost when I trade mine in, extended warrantee up in less than 5k miles. That gosh I bought that or my T&C would have bankrupted me.

    Probaby heading for a Honda or Toyota next time round. NEVER another Crysler T&C!!!!

    MiniVanDaddy
  • ocnjocnj Member Posts: 1
    My 09 Town & Country has been in the shop four times in the past 9 weeks. This past visit was due to loose heat reflectors. The service manager told me that they became loose "somehow" so they raised the engine and fastened the heat reflectors. Can someone explain to me heat reflectors and raising the engine to fasten? I am a bit worried as to the safty of this vehicle.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Heat reflectors, or heat shields, are used to protect sensitive or combustible parts of the vehicle from heat that comes from the exhaust system or the engine itself. The most common place you'll see this is above the catalytic converter, between it and the passenger compartment. Catalytic converters need to be at high temperatures for them to work properly, so the heat shield serves to keep the floor of the vehicle cooler and, in an extreme case, keep the carpeting from catching fire (though this is probably an extreme case).

    It is also common to use heat shields around exhaust headers or pipes in order to protect nearby wiring and also to try and lower the temperatures in the engine compartment.

    These heat shield are usually tack-welded or riveted together and similarly attached. It is not unusual for these welds or rivets to break loose which allows the heat shield to rattle. "Raising the engine" to refasten them may be needed depending on the location of the attachment points.
  • minivan_mamaminivan_mama Member Posts: 2
  • amypzamypz Member Posts: 1
    I have already had my van in for at least 4 recalls. All of which my van had the problem. One problem they could not find which was the side doors coming open by themselves or detecting an obstacle and it not being there. Not fixed and cant find it. My back wiper just broke apart while using it....they dont believe that happened and it's not replaced yet, they said it had to be ordered and "coded" so I do not have to pay for it.

    Today it's making awful noises....one when shifting from park to reverse, etc. It's not grinding but a weird noise like something winding down. Next it always sounded like a airplane landing when I went to stop now it's worse and making a high pitch noise and some other funky noise. They say it's probably the brakes and roters and have to pay $100.00....better than full price but that is not fair. I'm hoping that when I take it in tomorrow with my list of issues I can get out of the $100.00. I dont want to be irrate but the van has been a nightmare from day one!
    Anyone have luck getting out of paying?
  • madison29madison29 Member Posts: 3
    There is a TSB for you door problem. They have to flash your van and it will fix your problem.
  • britsysbritsys Member Posts: 8
  • x1bowx1bow Member Posts: 2
    I have 2008 T&C. have p0441 code. Have checked for loose fuel cap, looked at vacuum lines and all seems well. Is there a cannister on this engine and if so where is it located ? How do test the purge solenoid? Any other common causes?
    Thanks
  • x1bowx1bow Member Posts: 2
  • frjamesfrjames Member Posts: 1
    How much of a problem is it to remove the door panel?
  • leadonneleadonne Member Posts: 1
    Passenger window via the passenger switch only went down about four inches, then nothing. Driver switch didn't do anything to the passenger window. Then went to YOU TUBE and saw a video. Open the passenger door, hold down the switch and close door while holding down the switch. BAM, it worked. Why????
    Window still stops working with the door closed, but open it and hold the switch in the position you want to go, it will work. WHY?
    Whats wrong with my window? Anyone got any ideals.
    Thanks
    Butch
  • nlowellnlowell Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 Town and Country limited minivan. The right front power window has stopped working fortunately, it has stopped working in the up position. The left one is working, and for awhile the right one would work by using the controls on the left side and sometimes the one one the right door. It seemed to have lot's of zip when it would work, so I don't think it is the motor, but what do I know. Any ideas!
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Look at posts 230, 239, and 245 in this thread.
  • nlowellnlowell Member Posts: 6
    How do you find post's 230,239 and 245 ?
  • lockedout1lockedout1 Member Posts: 1
    where is the home link buttons located, it might be the cause of the problems that i have with the sliding doors which i can only open manually. wwent to dealer and the want to charge me up ungodly
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Use the "Go To Msg #" dialog box at the top of the thread.

    Or, use the page selection icons near the bottom.
  • jsanchez5jsanchez5 Member Posts: 1
    ok i have a 2001 dodge grand caravan sport and im replacing the bumpers(front and back). i found a guy who is parting out a 01 TC for real cheap. i want to know if the front bumper will fit on my van? i dont care if its a chrysler. the bumper is only $50. and thats the cheapest ive found it anywhere :( :sick:
  • del84del84 Member Posts: 1
    I fixed mine the same way. The wire was broken in two spots so make sure you check really good when you have it disassembled. :D
  • bluecat25bluecat25 Member Posts: 5
    Update on this. Found a site that says Service Bulletin 08-040-04 is supposed to fix this problem. I am about to try it out so I will let everyone know.
  • bluecat25bluecat25 Member Posts: 5
    Update. The Service Bulletin 08-040-04 worked. The technician originally said it was only if the alarm went off when your tailgate goes up, but I told him to keep reading. It affects the door locks too. They ended up putting in this update and an additional one to make the remote work after the first update was installed. It cost me $73 for both updates and was worth every penny.
  • mrmotley313mrmotley313 Member Posts: 1
    This info was very helpful, i did carefully take the panel off and took the motor itself to O'Reilly and come to find out there were 2 problems i was having. 1 the contacts were dirty, once i got them cleaned the 2nd issue i had was the threading was bad. No i know all i need now is a motor.

    Thanks!!!
  • dnp6066dnp6066 Member Posts: 1
    Where did you have the service bulletin installed? The dealer wanted to do a diagnostic and an upgrade at $70.00 each.
  • bpg1bpg1 Member Posts: 1
    I have had a similar issue with my '09 with 75k miles. I brought it back to the dealer, they didn't hear it but thought it was the exhaust so replaced the entire exhaust. I brought it home yesterday and heard the noise again this morning. I called back but they said they can't do much for me until it gets more consistent or reproducible. Did yours come back?
  • bluecat25bluecat25 Member Posts: 5
    This is too late to help dnp6066, buti paid the $72 to have the update installed. To my knowledge they did not do a diagnostic. I had the service bulletin number, and that was all they needed.
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    edited January 2012
    I must use the key to open the driver and passenger doors. When i use either of the 2 remotes I get the electronic sound for first click on front doors but no unlock. The second remote click makes the same motor sound but only unlocks sliders and hatch. Also only sliders and hatch lock automatically after acceleration. Key works fine on doors but still have to use remote to disarm alarm. Also have to manually lock both front doors when exiting.
    I guess I will have to pull the door panels to see whats up.
    Suggestions?
  • mmmbuzzmmmbuzz Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problem... drivers side slider is permanently locked, plus the passenger side lock only works manually. Both front doors and the rear door lock function normally. I tried to reset by removing the IOD fuse per a post on anther forum but it had no effect. gbritt did you get your's fixed? If so, please share what the solution was/is, thanks!
  • bluecat25bluecat25 Member Posts: 5
    Go to message 256 and follow the replies. The update 04-080-04 worked for my town and country. They also installed an additional update. I dont know what that number is. I originally had to argue with them because the update title is something about the gate. They did end up installing it and it worked like a charm. Haven't had any problems since. I found this fix online originally from a mechanic if you want to google some more. Good luck!
  • jbrickerjbricker Member Posts: 1
    :confuse: I just got a new computer put in my 2001 town and country along with engine wiring harness, and water pump. the day I brought it home I noticed the dash light weren't working (except for the mielage, A/c) how can this be fixed? could this have something to do with the new ecm? HELP
  • cameocameocameocameo Member Posts: 2
    Our 2008 Chrysler Town & Country made a pinging noise after we turned off the engine. It got to be embarrassing, and I was surprised that Chrysler did not do a recall, because this problem does not look good for them. We just had an after market resonator put on the car to replace the one that came with the car.... and voila..... the noise is gone, and the motor sounds much smoother as well. It was well worth the $200. Hope this helps everyone.
  • cameocameocameocameo Member Posts: 2
    Our 2008 Chrysler Town & Country made a pinging noise after we turned off the engine. It got to be embarrassing, and I was surprised that Chrysler did not do a recall, because this problem does not look good for them. We just had an after market resonator put on the car to replace the one that came with the car.... and voila..... the noise is gone, and the motor sounds much smoother as well. It was well worth the $200. Hope this helps everyone.
  • nlowellnlowell Member Posts: 6
    My T&C 2002 rear doors will not cloce with the buttons on the colume. They will close using the overhead controls on the conslole over the dash. Got any ideas as to what is wrong? Neal
  • chuckiebtoochuckiebtoo Member Posts: 4
    ....doesn't work. When activated, the manual pull stem "moves", but doesn't lock or unlock. The other functions...door opening/closing....work fine (if the door is manually unlocked).

    Anything I can do (lubrication?) to get that door lock to power-operate?

    Chuck
    02 T&C, 151K
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