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Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Caravan Door & Window Problems

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Comments

  • einsteinineeinsteinine Member Posts: 1
    I bought a '93 Voyager @65K miles, and used it *hard* for 5 years. I had a heavy duty hitch and towed a 2 ton trailer more than 20 times from Nashville to Knoxville, TN at 75 to 85 mph with no significant problems (one trip in 100 degree weather with constant A/C use, the trans overheated, and I changed the oil and kept driving). I killed the trans on a farm using the van to haul a manure spreader with a 2 ton load. The spreader has a cam on the drive wheel to work the unload chains, and this cam jerks the hitch back and forth constantly. Not thinking too clearly, I beat the trans to death with this fore and aft jerking. I had the trans rebuilt. THIS IS A MISTAKE! The housing journals were toasted, and the rebuilt trans died very shortly. I got a Jasper rebuilt trans ($2000 installed) which lasted until I sold the van with 230K miles. Good, hard-working van.

    I bought a T&C 2 years ago with 170K miles from a friend. I put about 30K miles on it with no problems.
    Last month I was rear ended by a GMC 1T pickup doing 60mph to my 15mph. Van is totaled. PROBLEM: The driver seat back collapsed with the rear impact. Since I had no support, I was yanked backward enough that my weight bent the upper part of the steering wheel about 6 inches backward. The impact over-extended my elbows, sprained my wrists and shoulders, and exacerbated the arthritis pain in my neck and lower back (I am 70 years old, but in good shape). Question: Is there a history of broken driver seat backs in Chrysler products? Good van to the end, but that seat problem is causing a lot of grief.
  • avgoustiavgousti Member Posts: 3
    Any idea where to get replacement fuses? Or do you know the rating of these fuses? Mine have the number 104M on the part. Searched on the net but no luck yet.

    Dinos
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2005 stow n go dodge caravan that is having lock issues. My front 2 doors (driver-passanger) doors and the 2 sliding doors are not locking with the powerlock switch. Ever other power electronic is working in my car except these 4 doors. The locks won't even work with the car control lock on the key chain. Does anyone know what is could be or where i need to look to make it work. I have checked all my fuses and they all look good and pushed in tight but i can't figure it out thanks :cry:
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    ave you tried to go to a kragen aoto store. i got alot of my fuses from there and it was about 5 dollors and up
  • scrappypalscrappypal Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 T&C, and the rear lift gate lock appears to be jammed. When I hit the automatic unlock button or remote, you can hear the mechanism trying, but it will not unlock. The key will not turn in the lock either...I have tried doing both together, but still no luck.
    Tonight I tried to get the panels off the inside of the rear lift gate, but was not able to get down to the lock to take a closer look....">link title
    Any suggestions?????????? <a href="
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2005 stow n go dodge caravan that is having lock issues. My front 2 doors (driver-passanger) doors and the 2 sliding doors are not locking with the powerlock switch. Ever other power electronic is working in my car except these 4 doors. The locks won't even work with the car control lock on the key chain. Does anyone know what is could be or where i need to look to make it work. I have checked all my fuses and they all look good and pushed in tight but i can't figure it out thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    My '98 GC has a similar problem. I find that if I just try to lift the latch, it will never open and feels like it is locked, though it has more resistance than when it is truly locked. The electric system unlocks it occasionally, but usually I must use the key (and it does not feel like it unlocks, but does). I have to press firmly on the gate while lifting on the handle in order for it to unlatch.

    I have a feeling that giving the mechanism a good spraying with lithium grease would help tremendously, but I have not taken this step yet, nor have I taken apart the paneling to do so.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    I was having the same problem with my 2005 Chrysler town & Country LX. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they reset it using the computer.
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    how much did they charge you for it? what was the exact problem?
  • memartinezmemartinez Member Posts: 2
    i just had the same problem and when i took the vehicle to the dealer i was told there was a problem with the computer in the vehicle and they had to update the software so the locking system would work again. i asked the dealer if there is a problem with the cars computer and updated software was needed not sure why chrysler is not paying for the updates?? i am not sure i was being told the truth. it cost $100.00 to fix the problem. i also have a 2005 touring model. not sure if computer not working properly why then only the locks effected??i have had 2 recalls with this van for other issues and i wonder if this locking issuing will become a recall. this could be safety hazard in an accident where i cannot reach the side doors quickly enough to get my children out of the vehicle in the event of an accident.
  • kiwitex71kiwitex71 Member Posts: 1
    I seem to have a similar problem w/ my 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT. Several times for no apparent reason my key remote will not lock/unlock my doors? If I keep tapping the lock button, the lights flash and horn beeps letting me know they are locked, so I know the remote is working. I tried to find the fuse in the fuse box - but it isn't listed on the cover!!! So I find that if I pull ALL the fuses and reseat them - the locks work! Can someone tell me what fuse is for the locks? I think memartinez needs to go and get a refund.
  • wcs6wcs6 Member Posts: 2
    Did you have your airbag recall performed prior to this problem? I just had my recall service performed and the very next day my locks quit. We have an 05 T&C.
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    My locks quit working again the day after I posted the dealer fixed it using computer.. I too had the airbag sensors replaced the day before this occured. Trying to get cancer surgery and worried about my door locks was bad. LOL I hope someone figurse it out real fast. Goos luck all.
  • 2005tandc2005tandc Member Posts: 1
    Interesting ... I just had the same problem ... inside electric switches and remote on the key didn't work ... lights would blink, locks wouldn't work ... dealer "diagnosed and reprogrammed the body control module" ...$54.40 Also had them do the airbag sensor replacement recall work at the same time, so that wasn't the cause of the lock failure ... :(
  • keith1517keith1517 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I have an'01 Grand Caravan I have a couple of questions about. First, when we lower the driver's side window, we have to wait several minutes to raise it. The used car dealer I bought it from three years ago replaced the switch when this was happening before. Does that sound like a reasonable solution. Second, the van has 109000 miles on it. The trans fluid has been neglected and needs replacing, but I'm not sure when it was done last. Like an idiot I listened to the tech at a major used car chain where I bought it. He told me it was maintenance free. Manuals all say otherwise. To the best of my knowledge, this is the fluid that was replaced at 35000 miles. Should I drop the pan and change the fluid and filter, or leave it alone. No leaks, shifts normally. Also, did Chrysler ever fix their transmission issues. I don't see too many posts about vans of my vintage, but lots on the mid to late 90's vans. Thanks for your help.

    KEith
  • misterunitmisterunit Member Posts: 3
    Solution: On my 2005 GC SXT, reseating the one fuse labeled IOD fixed the issue. This fuse was located at the front right as you stand in front of the vehicle, yellow 20A. Yes, I did just have my airbag recall done last weekend as well, and just noticed this issue yesterday. Good luck!
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    I went out and took my iod yellow 20 fuse out and then blew on it and put it back in and know my car doors and locks are working.

    question: do we think the fuses is going bad or is it the connection to the fuse?
    Stacey :)
  • buzsolobuzsolo Member Posts: 2
    ..we have the same 2005 Town & Country Touring Van with ~ 67,000 miles. About 2 weeks ago I came to this site for advice on this exact same problem. Our door locks stopped working. The lights would flash but that was it. It does appear that everyone is having pretty much the same issue (ie: dealer needs to reset the computer, update software, etc..). I've also seen where this is costing people ~$100. Well.... for some reason, this morning when we were out shopping with our two kids (and the lock issue was really bugging us)... I thought - "why don't I just try to disconnect & reconnect the battery and perhaps this will reset the computer". THIS WORKED!!!!!!!!!!! Hopefully this will save many of you some money!!!! Funny thing - the only other thing I know how to repair on a car is replacing the air filter. I'm not a mechanic at all and this worked. Good Luck!
  • wcs6wcs6 Member Posts: 2
    This is helpful. I hope everybody gets a chance to read this thread before they go pay a dealer $$$ for the computer hook up. I am going to print this off and take it to my dealer and see if I can get my money back for the computer reset fee. Good luck to everyone else. Chrysler definately has a problem that they are not paying attention to.
  • buzsolobuzsolo Member Posts: 2
    ....yeah. Trust me. The way I figured out that this was an easy fix was through these posts and through my conversations with the dealer. The dealer wanted a $96 "investigation" fee to look into the problem - and then - if it was needed, repair the problem then this amount would be applied towards the repair costs. Well.... Once I saw that most people were paying about $100 (and one recently paid ~ $46) I thought to myself that it must be a pretty simple 5 minute issue to deal with. Any repair charge less than the dealer fee tells me that the "shop" was glad to have you in that day. Some people are also "pulling out and replacing - or blowing off - the fuse" - Well in my opinion and from what it sounds like... this simply resets the whole same d*mn thing. Either way appears to work just fine.............Now..... let's don't begin to talk about the brakes...... Otherwise ... a great van. Buz Solo .....one more item - Last week in researching this, I did call me dealer and asked if I could request a computer refresh and not be charged the "investiation fee". They did tell me they could do this but the work would not be guaranteed. yeah....my van is ok now.... no thanks.
  • john197john197 Member Posts: 1
    The electric window on drivers side of my 2001LXI stopped working. Any one have any suggestions on Why or how to correct?
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Member Posts: 421
    We have an 01 DGC EX we bought used from a Chrysler dealer back in Sep. 2003 w/37K. We had window problems right after purchase with both front windows not going up or down when using the switch. Come to find out, we needed a window motor and regulator for each window. (Was covered under warranty.) As for your trans. fluid. I'm not sure witch would be best for you. A trans. flush, draining all 14 qts. of trans. fluid out and replacing it with fresh new fluid. A trans. filter change, drain only 2 qts. out of the trans. and replacing the filter and 2 qts. drained. I would only go to a daimlerchrysler dealer to have the trans. serviced, since they are the only ones that sale the fluid for your trans. Put the wrong trans. fluid in and your trans. will die over time. :shades:
  • mark3885mark3885 Member Posts: 4
    I pulled the fuse that you suggested and the locks worked again. But the next day I noticed that the locks won't automatically lock after driving away from a stop. Has this happened to anyone else? I will pull the fuse again but I think the results will be the same.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    The auto-lock feature is programmable (on or off), with the factory-set default being "on." I am not sure how to switch it from on to off and vice versa, but it is something that can be done.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • mark3885mark3885 Member Posts: 4
    maybe as easy as disconnecting the battery? or pulling the right fuse? I'll get the 9 volt hookup to the cig lighter to save the presets on the radio. If that doesn't work I'll disable the 9 volt too.
  • misterunitmisterunit Member Posts: 3
    There is a procedure listed in the manual for turning the car on (not starting it) 4 times, then hitting the drivers lock button to enable/disable the locking feature. Might try it, as I did initially a few times before 'finding' that super-secret fuse.
  • mark3885mark3885 Member Posts: 4
    Today I unhooked the battery and turned the key 4 times ,then reconnected the battery. The auto lock feature would still not lock the doors when I drove away. I'll try the 4 times then hit the drivers lock button. Now it seems like I read that in the owners manual.
  • mark3885mark3885 Member Posts: 4
    where is the super secret fuse? the yellow 20A?
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    I want to thank whoever figured out the fuse deal. I just tried it and it worked for me too. I had 2 dealers check it and it cost me $40 with one and nothing with the other. I'm gonna go try to get my $40 back. This 2005 Town & Country LX is a good van tho. thanks again whoever
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    I have done the fuse but i have noticed that ever couple of days I have to keep pulling it to reset [non-permissible content removed] to work. is anyone else having this problem? If so do we think the fuse is going bad or is it the connection?
    :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,788
    Mark, I think you will need to keep the battery connected while performing the procedure.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    When I pulled my fuse, I noticed it looked corroded , all but the tip. I cleaned the corrosion and replaced it. I have had no problem since. Good luck
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    I Pulled the fuse and put it back but everyday i am having to do this otherwise my locks don't work. Is anyone else having this problem? Has anyone just replaced there whole fuse yet and if so does it still happen?

    Stacey
  • rbruntrbrunt Member Posts: 2
    I've pulled this fuse out a couple times as well and after a short time, my locks stop working. My lock button on remote and drivers side door do not allow to lock / unlock the doors. It's pretty annoying. I haven't found a labeled fuse that deals with door locks which would be too helpful. I will try replacing the fuse altogether but the fuse doesn't look bad. Any ideas or help would be appreciated. Thanks. 2005 Dodge Grand Carivan SXT. I'm starting to think this should be another recall item?
  • rbruntrbrunt Member Posts: 2
    I was hoping someone had the answer to this as I've pulled and replaced my fuse 4 times so far which does fix the locks until I get in and drive somewhere and then they quit working again. This is getting ridiculous. I'm very disappointed in the quality of these Dodge Caravans. We've also had problems with the automatic doors. argh..
    I don't think you should see these problems in a 2 year old van. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    I emailed Chrysler about this problem. I also stated that it sounds like recall time. Let's see if they even respond. Jim
  • hkannalhkannal Member Posts: 8
    I got online tonight searching for help as I have had my 2005 Town and Country Touring in for this lock matter 6 times!@!! We would take out the fuse and clean it off and put it back in and it would work for a couple of days, then it got to where that didn't work. We then replaced the fuse. This worked for about 1-2 weeks. Then, taking the fuse out would not work at all. So, we finally took it to the dealership. They said it was the BCM, but this was very unusual. So, they replaced it. It worked for about a day. They wanted to see it again (trip #3 as the BCM part always has to be ordered). We switch all 3 carseats over to my husband's car (VERY tight fit!!) and take it back in. They said it was the BCM again. We said they need to find what is causing the BCM to blow and fix it. They need to order it again! Another week goes by (it has now been a few months) and the part is in, so we switch car seats yet another time and take the van in. They replace it and it fails them as soon as they test it. They said they talked with Engineering and THEY said a new BCM is needed (not a rebuilt-we were never told we were getting rebuilts!!). AGAIN we said they need to find the cause for the BCM's to be blowing. Engineering was supposedly overnighting the new part. 8 days later I called them and they found the part there (magically!). So, we brought it in for the 6th time! This time the service manager and my husband were brought back to test it before we left with the van. It worked. My husband drove it from the dealership about 15 minutes and parked it. I went over to it about 2 hours later and the doors were not locked, so I tried to lock them and they don't work!!!!!! I called the dealership immediately and they said they really don't know what to do. They need to see it again and talk with Engineering. I left a message for the service manager today that I would be willing to bring it in to them one more time and leave with a loner so they will keep it until it is fixed. This was early this afternoon and he did not call me back. I am at a complete loss. The next nearest dealership is almost an hour away. OH did I mention that I purchased the extended warranty and paid the $50 deductable the first time, but have never been offered a loaner vehicle as they have never kept it overnight. On the one hand I am glad to see I am not the only one with this problem, but unfortunately, no one seems to have an answer! Thanks for letting me rant!
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    It has been several days now and still no reply from Chrysler about this problem.. Sure seems strange that a problem that is affecting so many people doesn't get solved. I think maybe we should contact our representives and just maybe we can get some action.
  • belldochertybelldocherty Member Posts: 1
    Add me to your list. My 2005 T&C locks stopped working yesterday. They don't work after while driving in excess of 15 mph like they should, nor do they work from the remote or the door controls. I have 53,000 on my van & bought it brand new. Of course, I was told "not under warranty". In addition to this, I've already had to replace the power steering resorvoir (sp), front brakes & rotors at 40,000, new tires this summer, new rear brakes this summer AND a new EGR valve replacement. NOW THIS!
  • jungleviperjungleviper Member Posts: 2
    I've had the same problem at about 55,000 miles. I've had it to the dealer, and they could do nothing. I replaced the BCM, and nothing. This really NEEDS to be a recall. Also the EGR valve issue. I had to replace that as well! What do we all need to do to get this recalled???
  • jungleviperjungleviper Member Posts: 2
    I just called Chrysler to complain about this issue. If we want them to do a recall I think everyone needs to call Chrysler and complain. The phone number is 1-800-853-1403. You'll need the last 8 digits of your VIN.
  • ezjimezjim Member Posts: 9
    Chrysler has me on hold while they research this problem. I was just told that they won't do anything about the door locks. He said they are out of warranty. Now this is BullCrap. He asked if there was anything else he could help me with. I told him " I don't talk to paid off flunkys. Then I hung up on the idiot.
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    how many people have called chrysler about the lock problem. i am thinking if we can get enough people to complain then they have to do something besides tell us that they aren't in warranty anymore. :mad:
  • hkannalhkannal Member Posts: 8
    I will definately call! I talked to my dealership again, and my van is going in for the 7th time for the locks. I told them they need to give me a loaner and keep the van until it is fixed. I cannot keep switching carseats and re-arranging my schedule over and over for this. They agreed to my terms. The problem is, everyone at this dealership (except the guy who is seeing it Monday) has worked on it and they have no clue. And, from reading everyone's responses here, I think Chrysler in general doesn't know what the problem or how to fix it is. My other concern is that since it appears that most of us have had this problem after the air bag recall was done, are our air bags working properly. What all is controlled by the BCM? This being the Body Control Module, and holding all the software, the only function cannot be to work the 4 front locks. And, it is interesting that everyone seems to be having this problem after about 50,000 miles. I'm copying several of these threads and taking them with me to the dealership in the hopes they can help them to think to look at something else. I'll keep you up to date!!! (everyone)
    Thanks!
  • hkannalhkannal Member Posts: 8
    Update on my van. It's at the dealership right now. They had it all day and called me to say that the now need to replace the Master Control Switch. Supposedly the part will be in tomorrow and I get to keep the rental van until then. They also are supposed to be giving me a list of all the things that the BCM controls. Hopefully this will work. I'm not too optimistic, but am glad that at least it is a new part that they are replacing. I will update ya'll as to whether or not this works. Let's hope this is the solution we have all been looking for!!
  • poobearhunnypoobearhunny Member Posts: 9
    well keep us all updated so that if we need to all go to the dealership and get the same thing done then we can. We need to figure it out and then make them recall it so we all can get everything fixed for free. thanks
  • hkannalhkannal Member Posts: 8
    Well, I picked up my van today. The part they replaced was the Power Lock Switch in the driver's door. I had high hopes. Everything was working fine for a few hours, but now the sliding door on the driver's side doesn't lock or unlock with power button. All others are, though so this is a significant improvement. And I didn't find this until after dealership hours, so I will call them tomorrow. What a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]!!! I love my van and really this is the only problem I've had, but boy, I have been dealing with this forever!!! I'll keep you informed.

    One question for everyone, though... if you manually open or close your sliding doors, are they pretty heavy? Mine are, but I thought that was normal, beings how they have a motor and all. The rental I had for the last 2 days was a 2007 Caravan with power sliding doors and they were about 1/2 as heavy. I kept slamming them by accident since I was used to really putting some muscle into opening or shutting them. Kind of wonder if this may be a connection to the locks not working. I know, I'm probably grasping at straws, here.
    Thanks!
  • gtfiremangtfireman Member Posts: 2
    Hello all.
    I came to this site like many of you to get some questions answered about my power sliding doors.
    The passenger power sliding door stopped working about 2 months ago. Sometimes it would work then nothing...
    Well yesterday I opened the door and was surprised to see sparks flying down near the track at the bottom of the door.
    After some inspecting, I have found a wire that has been cut in two and making contact with the body of the van causing the sparks. Could this be the problem with my sliding door? The answer is yes. I just installed a new plastic wire track and everything works fine. $56.70 later... This is an 2005 model should this be happening already? Its a bad design. All the engineers have to do is wrap the exposed wires in another plastic wire loom...
    Problem solved. If anybody else is having problems with your power sliding door check your wires. :) ">
    Jody
  • hkannalhkannal Member Posts: 8
    OK here's the scoop... The lock in the driver's side sliding door was bad. To replace this, they have to take the door apart. While it was apart they found the gear for the motor for the sliding door was bad (this is why it has been so heavy to open/close). They replaced this also. So far my locks are working properly and the door is SO much easier to open and close. They have ordered another gear for the other door as it is heavy, too. Funny thing is, I think these doors haven't worked right since I bought it as I don't ever remember it being this easy to open the doors and I purchased this van new with 5 miles on it!! I don't know if there is any connection with the door gears and the locks or not. Hope this has helped some people.
  • dmzweberdmzweber Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my driver's side sliding door. The dealership called to tell me we have to replace gear/motor also. They said they took the whole door apart and found it to be electrical problem. They've quoted me $800.00 for the part. The service rep. said he's never seen this happen before. Did you pay nearly this much?
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