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to complete MOBIL 1 synthetic. Seems to shift
the automatic better. For those with tranny problems, the Escape uses a re-vamped and hopefully strengthened version of the Mazda CD4E
auto-tranny. Apparently the early Mazda versions weren't dependable, self-destructing at 70-80K miles. According to what I've been able to find out, Ford made it stronger for use in the Escape.
However, this does not compensate those of you who've had trans. failure early-on within 15-50K
miles. At present I've got 62K miles with no apparent problems. However, I've convinced myself that pro-active service is better breakdown, so, I've doing a complete trans-flush
every 20K miles which for me is about every 15 months. But I'm not deluding myself into thinking that trans. failure cannot happen to me.,
it can, but at least I can attempt to mitigate potential problems.
The rough idle can be any combinination of things, and since I'm not a mechanic I don't want to mislead anyone. Two things that were done early on were :
- Cruise Control cable replaced ~15K miles.
- Idle Air Contol Motor or module replaced ~25K
miles. This was changed out d/t engine dying
at start-up or at low-idle. This is an endemic
problem with early V6 Escapes and a new IAC is
probably needed every 30-50K or until Ford gets
it right. The problem may also be coil-packs as
previously posted which are a problem as well.
As yet, none of mine have cratered. Both IAC
and coil-packs can be bought at parts-centers
as opposed to the dealer which will be 30-50%
higher at least.
- Of course the infamous PCM-reflash was done on
mine too. Oddly enough since then my mileage
has dropped from 19 city to 17 city since the
re-flash, but I can't convince the Ford dealer
that it's related, which it may not be.
Mercon V is semi syn. Escape/Trib trannies are not compatible with syn. oil.
Anyway, my initial reaction to buying a new car was WOW! I have wanted an SUV for quite a while. This is going to be great, NOT!! My husband went to pick up our new tags about 3 weeks after we bought the car and when he got to the dealer he shut the car off, got out and locked the doors, however, when he stopped to listen he realized that the car was still running without the key in the ignition!! Thank goodness he was already at the dealer because he couldn't unlock the door. He went in and told the dealership and they couldn't believe it either. This was the first incident. I believe they had the car a few days at this point, it's a blur. Then about 2 - 3 weeks later we started having an intermittent starting problem. Two or three trips back to the dealeship later, the problem seemed to be fixed but low and behold it started happening more frequently again around Sept 2004.
Along with this continued problem, we started experiencing a stalling problem when the car was put in reverse. The dealership has replaced the throttle position sensor, the mass air flow meter and also the tranmission. This SUV has about 20k miles. Also, I had some rust on the rear liftgate handle so that has been re-painted. The car was in the shop about 3 weeks. The day after getting it back from the shop, we had the intermittent starting problem again. Within less than 2 weeks of getting the car back from having the transmission replaced, the car stalled when put into reverse. This is a lot of crap!!! LEMON!!! All response are welcome.
I am sorry you had to experience this, and I had a somewhat similar situation with a Volkswagen about four years ago.
How has the dealer treated you? Volkswagen was awful and would not even give me a loaner car for the warranty work on my new car! I decided, based on the dealers treatment, that I would not buy a Volkswagen until they got their act together.
I would have to say that the issues that you have experienced are not typical of a new Tribute purchase. I would give the dealer the opportunity to make things right (great deal on a new car perhaps), or take my business elsewhere.
Bottomline, is that this can happen to any car out there, it is how the dealer handles these issues when they come up, and whether or not they take care of it. I wish you the best of luck! If you do decide to look elsewhere, I recommend Nissan or Subaru..
I first thought about flywheel, etc., but we took it to dealer, and as usual, they could not hear the noise. If you are inside the car with radio on, you cannot hear it.
Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and related fix. Thanks.
I had to go to dealer today. I went to start the damn thing and I could hear a wistling noise so I opened the hood and there was some kind of oil shot all over the inside of the engine compartment. I think the power steering hose blew off but what else is new! Dealer is looking into making a deal with us to trade in the crappy one for a new one....will see what they say. I don't count on anything from the dealership. The miss's is hopping.
Really? I've been actively reading and posting in Escape forums for three years now and this is the first I've heard of a power steering hose "exploding". Maybe the second one if you posted it before and I just missed it.
FYI, we have already begun the process regarding the lemon law. A letter has already been sent to Mazda. We are now waiting for their response. I was told this could take up to 18 months to resolve completely. Hope it doesn't.
Actually the dealer is nice enough, they just don't know how to fix our problems. They always have a loaner car for us and are honest when it comes to how long we should expect to be without our car. I think their inability to fix the problems is reason enough to take my business to some other manufacturer. I guess if they come back with an offer I can't refuse, then I'll consider staying with them, but some of the other postings in this message board scare me about future trouble(s) I may encounter. The dealer has never even suggested that we might be able to trade it in. I ask them what else can I do but bring it in to be checked over again and again.
I know that this can happen to with car, so I am not holding out for a great experience with another make/model. I am going in with a bad attitude/outlook and expecting the worse. This way when it turns out OK, I'll be a satisfied consumer. Ha Ha.
Seriously, thanks for the positive input. I appreciate it.
Kibbles
Did your problems start early on? About how many miles?
Kibbles
Yeah we did. Two weeks after I bought the vehicle, we had taken a trip to Vancouver and back, and about a week later I noticed the oil light flickering on and off. That was when they had to replace the engine because they say the oil pump wasn't working at normal operating temperature. After that it's all downhill. Headlights, Coolant reservoir, Power Steering Pump and hoses twice now, rear hatch lift's 3 times now, Rims re-cut and polished due to chipping of clear coat. tie rods, rear wiper motor, sunroof button box due to button not working. Brake pads replaced very early. If you need to replace your brake pads and your sick of the brake dust all over your rims get ceramic pads. They work like a charm.
3 days ago was the last time the power steering hose's broke. It's was -34 C outside with windchill it was -48 C. I wasn't the only one that this has happened to. There was 7 Tribute's at my Mazda Dealer. All with the same problem. There was also a pile of Protege's.
The dealer tells us that it's the cold that brakes the hoses. I said to them that they shouldn't be selling these vehicle's here when the temperature will always get down this low in the Canadian Prairies. They had no response. What else is new.
So all of the above has happened in the span of 2 years. I hope that answers your question
The dealer has not recreated the problem, because it occurs only when it is very hot and I've driven for an hour or so. Whenever it happens, I call the service dept. and insist they log my call in my car's service records.
I can't offer anything else, but to let you know that even though I've had some problems with my Tribute, I have decided to keep it when the lease is up.
This looks like engine coolant temperature sensor to me. It is well known problem for many make and model.
I suppose if it was wrong the trannie may have cratered by now, but maybe not. In any case, the
Mobil 1 seems to be doing the job o.k.
FYI to All: At 63K my brake booster went nuts, hissing and groaning. Be aware that this may happen with advancing mileage to any car. The diaphragm went bad inside the housing. The dealer wants $172.59, however, my mechanic-buddy will pick one up for $119.00 and I'll install it with him. Rebuilt ones are available from a parts-house for ~$90.00, but there is a core charge of $40.00 until the bad one is brought-in.
It started with a barely audible hiss that my daughter heard, but I didn't (a function of aging). It progressively got worse over a week period, until it was diagnosed by my friend as the problem. If the work was done at a dealer then it would cost ~$260.00+ for parts and labor.
I've known this transmission from my 97 Mazda 626. Also dipsticks in my 05 Escape and Trib says Mercon. And transmission was not updated since 2001 in terms of oil.
I can't seem to find a reference to that. Do you have a link?
tidester, host
However, if you focus on Taurus and Escape forums over the internet, you can find it.
Basically there were two types of dipstick issues; one is shorter dipstick (on taurus)which makes you believe your engine has less oil than what it should have...
The second one is dipstick shows wrong oil type (Taurus and early Escapes).Some G3 and G4 Tauruses came with Mercon dipstick that was suppose to be Mercon V. And some escapes came with a dipstick marked with Mercon V instead of Mercon.
Escape tranmissions are modified mazda 626 transmissions (I believe CDNE4 or some thing like that) and they are absolutely not compatible with Mercon V. This can be verified by any Ford dealer.
tidester, host
http://www.txchange.com/merconv.htm
They gotta go witht the service manual which says Mercon.
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/nafl/auto/content/atf.shtm
You're starting to scare me now... Does this mean that Ford may owe me a transmission if it's verifiable that the wrong dipstick was used ? I'm
calling Ford Customer Service immediately to check....
Called Ford. They monitored the conversation and according to them it's the first time that they've heard of this particular issue. They can
find no official documentation on this issue.
I was advised by the customer care rep. to continue doing what I've been doing on the transmission. However, it doesn't make it right yet. I'd like a little more surety that this is not a real problem.
According to Ford transmission mechanics on another website that-dare-not-speak-its-name, Mercon III (or just plain "Mercon") is the correct fluid for all Escape/Tribute transmissions. Manual right, dipstick wrong. Maybe that's why the word "dipstick" earned such a bad rap?
substantiation for the purported claim. You may be right, about the DDD's, don't know yet.
Currently I'm running Mobil 1 synthetic ATF which I just put in several weeks ago, ~10.5 quarts were exchanged. This brew is supposedly compatible with any transmission /fluid. I have to admit that the trannie has not been acting out of the ordinary after 3.5 yrs. and 63K miles, but only time will tell. I've been judicious about the flushes and maintenance.
To be frank, if it was a screw-up at the factory, then :
1.) I'm owed a decent, cogent explanation from
Ford.
2.) I may be owed a new trannie, if this can be
subtantiated.
3.) If substantiation occurs and Ford does not
comply, then a lawsuit will be forthcoming,
probably with a settlement.
My premise is simple, if Ford messed-up then Ford
should pay period. However, I still like my Escape. I'll keep y'all posted... this may take awhile.
Even tought they screwed up, you won't be able to prove it. They even may claim that you changed the dipstick...
Beyond that, nothing has been damaged yet or at least you don't know...
You might wanna get it replaced with Mercon asap thought...
we're playing phone-tag at the moment. He does have some answer for me, either yea or nay, I'm not sure. I'll let y'all know what and when I find out something or whether it will be pat-answer.
I have an 03 Tribute DX (5 speeds), 36k miles, and overall I'm satisfied with it.
The only problem I have with it, since I bought it, is a knocking sound coming from the front right side of the car. It's as if I try to start the car in the 3rd speed.
Funny is that this noise can be heard every morning, but only when I start driving the car. It lasts for 1-2 seconds, after that is gone for the whole day.
I keep my car in the garage. First thing is to put the car in reverse and drive it backwards out of the garage to the front of the house. Then I start moving forward and this is when the noise can be heard.
Went three times to the dealer. First time they changed something at the stabilizer. Then they could not find anything wrong. They said they can't reproduce the problem. But my wife, me and some friends all noticed this problem, so I'm sure there must be something.
Anybody has a similar problem?
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
or has been no problem with my maintenance schedule, fluid used, etc., then don't worry about it.
Wijoco: You are right, without litigation involved
Ford would do nothing. Plus all manufacturers are getting real sticky about records and paper back-up and I don;t have all the paperwork to back me up, so I'm really SOL. I'll just keep tooling along and keep the vehicle for as long as necessary or needed. I still like the way it drives/handles/true-roominess for four (4), but the gas-mileage is not that great. Currently, I've got 63K+, and it seems to be running/shifting fine for now.
Just had the rear-brakes cleaned and adjusted with a brake-fluid flush. According to mechanic rear-brakes have about 1/2 wear left on them. Front ceramic-enhance brakes perform well and do not dust-up the wheeels like the OEM pads did. After two (2) OEM pad-changes I decided to go after-market and try the cermic-enhanced pads. It's been worth it and the pads were actually cheaper than OEM's. The aftermarket rotors are turnable too unlike the OEM rotors. I would like to add a Gibson or Magna-Flow exhaust system, but do not know if I'll have the vehicle long enough to justify the cost. I may trade for a pick-up by this time next year. I do between 18-19K miles per year, so I'm raking-up miles pretty fast. Like I say, I don't anticipate anything happening to the Escape mechanically, but you can never tell. All machines are prone to wear and breakage.
The exterior is in great shape, if I do say so myself, with a couple of wax-jobs a year with
frequent washes. Luckily it's warm enough with few exceptions to wash vehicles year-round here.
I have a 2004 Escape with 29K miles. The car stalls when it is put in Reverse, and sometimes in Park.
I have been to the dealer 4 times already. I have had the PCM module reprogrammed twice already, the accelerator plug (recall) changed, and one other fix. I just picked the car up yesterday and I've stalled 4 times since then.
A friendly FORD mechanic told me that this is something that is happening often. Not sure what to do. I am over the 2yr/18k lemon law option, FORD customer relations has suggested that I work with the dealer. I am at my wits end here.
I have owned 2 Toyotas with no major problems (190K and 130K) and upgraded to an SUV because of my growing family and the lure of new car reliability. BOY was I fooled...
1st problem noticed around 10K Km
1st Problem - ABS Indicator - intermittent on/off. Also intermittent brake pedal vibration.
2nd problem noticed shortly after 1st:
2nd Problem - Oil Leak - steady droplet flow.
Brought vehicle in for service before Christmas, whereby they stated that a speed sensor needed to be replaced for 1st problem and new oil pump for 2nd problem. A month later, still waiting to get problem fixed.
Vehicle is in the shop as I type, so can update later as to whether the problems were fixed.
As a side note, not impressed with the level (or lack there of) of service from the Erin Mills Mazda dealer. Vehicle was brought in yesterday for all day service, yet nothing was done since 2 out of 5 mechanics did not show.
Update and impressions to follow.
It sound complete nonsense that these repairs take 2 months. First repair at most 1 hour, second repair I guess around 3 hours. Parts can be ordered over night as well.