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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis General Maintenance
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Comments
That being said, cars run hotter now than before. Therefore, on an engine understressed like the Grand Marquis, I'd go with 5,000 miles. On my wife's little Corolla, we still do it every 3,000 miles.
Oh yeah - I used 5w30 in summer, - 5w20 is too thin.
Which comes to another point Transmission fluid, I won't change it for the entire life of the vehicle, why because I never have in the past and the transmission lasted everytime to about 120,000 miles, so why start? You're going to say to make it last longer, but I don't need it to last any longer than that because I'll be in new wheels by that time.
i bought a 99 merc GM with 59k last fall. since the beginning every once in a while it would have trouble starting. starter was fine ,it would sound weak upon starting like the gas isnt getting in there properly. after a few months on several occasions it would not wanna start, i would have to turn the key a second time and hold it for it to finally start. i heard it might be the fuel pressure regulator but since the prob was intermitten, and she always started, i kept putting it off. today i jump in and take off and i feel it slightly bucking and hesitating and after about 15 minutes the check engine light came on. i turned around and headed for autozone to get a read on the code and they tell me its a misfire. in my haste i didnt realize to ask the guy which cylinder was giveing ther misfire code, if any at all. is it possible for it to give a misfire code without specifying a cylinder and if so could that be related to the hard start issue i have been experiencing? where should i start first? paying back the irs has left me with little in the bank so im tryin to figure out the smartest and most economical way to go about this so any help would be greatly appreciated... thank you
oh btw, she has almost 63 k on her now and last month i changed the oil/filter, fuel filter & air filter, if that helps at all
I have a 92 MGM that has a rotted oil pan, and requires replacement to remain operational. I know to perform this replacement, we will need to lift the motor. Is there a set of step by step instructions for this replacement available online? I have a new oil pan and gasket, and big engine hoist, and we took the hood off tonight, so we are ready to go. I expect we need to drop the exhaust, disconnect all coolant lines, and scads of other items. Having some detailed instructions would be great though, and we do not have a service manual. Can anyone point me in the direction of an online resource?
Thanks!
Rob
2. Remove air inlet tube and drain cooling system. Remove cooling fan and shroud.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Disconnect fuel lines.
4. Remove upper radiator hose, wiper module and support bracket.
5. Discharge A/C system, then disconnect A/C compressor outlet hose. Remove bolt securing hose assembly to RH coil bracket.
6. Remove engine electrical harness 42-pin connector from bracket on brake vacuum booster.
7. Disconnect engine electrical connector, then disconnect transmission harness electrical connector.
8. Disconnect throttle valve cable at throttle body.
9. Disconnect heater outlet hose.
10. Remove RH cylinder head ground strap attaching nut, then remove upper stud and lower bolt securing heater hose to cylinder head.
11. Remove blower motor resistor, then the RH engine mount to lower engine bracket attaching bolt.
12. Disconnect exhaust system from manifolds.
13. Lower exhaust and secure to crossmember with wire.
14. Position a suitable jack and block of wood below oil pan, rearward of drain plug.
15. Raise engine approximately four inches, then insert two wood blocks, approximately 2.5-2.75 inches thick, under each engine mount.
16. Lower engine onto wood blocks and remove jack from below oil pan.
17. Loosen 16 retaining bolts and remove oil pan. It may be necessary to loosen, without removing, the two nuts on rear transmission mount and raise extension housing of transmission slightly to remove oil pan.
18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.
Thanks!
Rob
Still working on this 92 MGM oil pan swap. Motor mount bolts were 13 mm and we used a flex socket to get to them. We have the motor up on wood blocks over the motor mounts and the trans jacked up a bit. The oil plan is detached but we cannot extract it as the bell housing of the trans is in the way. We would like to avoid removing the trans. Should we pull the oil pan out the front? We may be able to get the motor a touch higher if we remove the wiper motor, but we dont think it will buy us enough clearance. Is this a neccessary step? Any more tips?
Thanks!
Rob
It has 126 thousand on it,,Runs like a top but I don't know if they have ever been replaced???
Winter is coming so I would like to get them replaced as soon as possible...
gap is 1.32-1.42 mm (0.052-0.056 in)
I just bought it and I don't know if I should Tune it up before winter.
can I do it my self, I have tools to do the job.
Thanks
Sam,
The seller probably did the necessary to have it run very well so as to market it.
Motorcraft shows a variety of plugs for that engine actually, depending on what type you want and also depending on something called a "W engine code" which I don't know about. For that code they list a very similar number to the one from Alldata---AGSF32PM
SP493 seems to be a platinum plug for the Non W code engines.
Ford changes their plug numbers so often that by the time he reads this, there will be a new # :P
Cal
On the positive side, might be a comfy enough smooth-road, straight-line, long distance commuter.
Cal
Checked on the level from pump to pump.
True, most of the driveline is the same, however compare the different hp ratings of the engines, tire size, and axle ratio.
If mpg is important, lean towards the 2.73 & the standard 4.6L engine.
Speculation: The car with 17's may also be equipped with the "handling package" or sometimes called the "touring" option.
The "handling package" usually included, larger diameter tires, heavier duty stabilizers, air shocks in rear, heavy duty shocks in front, dual exhaust, high output alternator, plus other improvements i.e. 3.27 or 3.55 axle ratio.
I am told the ride of the car with the "handling package" is not as fluffy as the standard suspension which would more likely have the economy axle ratio, but it corners like a locomotive.
My car currently has 145000 mile and the car runs good but the gear seems to shift when I speed going up hill or whenever a speed like a clicking sound. The lights on the radio has gone out and want to bring it back. What is the average cost to replace the rear differential fluid? What kind of services do I need to do? :confuse: