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Ford Crown Victoria/Mercury Grand Marquis General Maintenance

2

Comments

  • serge99piserge99pi Member Posts: 4
    this weekend put new idle air sensor, fuel filter I thought the sensor i put before might of been bad it starts better but still takes lots of gas 13 per gal and when i drive 30-40 miles per hr sometimes it shakes just little when my foot is on gas sometimes when i am standing at the light it will start shaking more but then i go forward and it drives perfect.Hooked it up to tester it showed nothing is wrong put out check eng than it came back it was little orange scanner they use at autozone,I hope it is nothing seruios spark plugs were changed also.PLEASE GIVE ADVICE WILL TRY ANYTHING !
  • hottmomma315hottmomma315 Member Posts: 1
    My 94 Crown Vic just started making knocking noises and a ping type of noise every few seconds and when accerlated it shakes and acts like it isn't getting enough power. All fluids have been checked. What do u think could be the problem?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Would be helpful to know how many miles are on the CV. If in excess of 110k, don't overlook the coil on plugs, plug wiring, and mass air sensor.
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Could be a lot of things, especially at it's age. But I would start with the ignition/timing system first.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Member Posts: 72
    I get my oil changed every 5000 miles, unlike the recommended 3000. My uncle worked for ford before buyout and told me that it was a waist of my money to change the oil every 3000 miles. He said it simply didn't get dirty enough to cause enough friction to do damage, so ford knows we only have to change it every 5000 but i think they have a scheme to get the dealerships more money for changing oil more often. what do you think?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    It may go without saying, but hopefully you also change filters when you change oil. Otherwise, it's like putting a new diaper on a dirty bottom. :blush:
  • jsylvesterjsylvester Member Posts: 572
    Your uncle is right - modern oil is far superior to what it was when you had to change it every 3,000 miles. Not to mention, cars run cleaner, so less contaminants get into the oil.

    That being said, cars run hotter now than before. Therefore, on an engine understressed like the Grand Marquis, I'd go with 5,000 miles. On my wife's little Corolla, we still do it every 3,000 miles.

    Oh yeah - I used 5w30 in summer, - 5w20 is too thin.
  • confused1096confused1096 Member Posts: 3
    I'd replace the fuel filter (about $9) and if that does not work have a shop check the fuel system.
  • confused1096confused1096 Member Posts: 3
    I've always done around 3000. That's how I was taught growing up. Maybe I'm wasting money but the flip side is I've had a lot of cars live past the 200,000 mile mark.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Member Posts: 72
    I definately change my filters.
    Which comes to another point Transmission fluid, I won't change it for the entire life of the vehicle, why because I never have in the past and the transmission lasted everytime to about 120,000 miles, so why start? You're going to say to make it last longer, but I don't need it to last any longer than that because I'll be in new wheels by that time.
  • fordenvyfordenvy Member Posts: 72
    I just heard today that 5000 miles isn't going to be recommended by Ford on their new models anymore. Now it's going to be every 7500 miles.
  • gotdustgotdust Member Posts: 3
    my 93 crown vic has a loose steering wheel its the actual steering wheel on inside of car, its just kinda wiggly and i know there is a way to tighten it up could someone explain the process to me? thanks
  • jjohiojjohio Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem with my 2004 grand marquis.It has 35,000 miles.I have tried installing washers on mounting bolts.Removing steering wheel and welding beads on top and bottom of shaft hole on steering wheel.neither helped fix problem.it became so bad i wouldn't drive the vehical.I removed the steering column and had my local dealer rebuild it. cost me about $200 which wasnt too bad.The coulmn was tight when i reinstalled it.Although it is starting to work loose again. I was hopeing ford would have a TSB, or I would find something on the internet on how to fix it.
  • thumper8thumper8 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 99 Grand Marquis. I am not terribly familiar with the Ford 4.6 and need to ask a dumb question: How do I get to the plug wires on this darn car?
  • ronald1ronald1 Member Posts: 11
    Your engine has an ignition coil setting on top of each sparkplug. The plug wires are small 12 volt wires that should last the life of the vehicle.
  • jerrygw3jerrygw3 Member Posts: 4
    where is the fuel pump inertia switch located. 2004 crown victoria 4.6 engine.
  • mr_merc99mr_merc99 Member Posts: 1
    hello,
    i bought a 99 merc GM with 59k last fall. since the beginning every once in a while it would have trouble starting. starter was fine ,it would sound weak upon starting like the gas isnt getting in there properly. after a few months on several occasions it would not wanna start, i would have to turn the key a second time and hold it for it to finally start. i heard it might be the fuel pressure regulator but since the prob was intermitten, and she always started, i kept putting it off. today i jump in and take off and i feel it slightly bucking and hesitating and after about 15 minutes the check engine light came on. i turned around and headed for autozone to get a read on the code and they tell me its a misfire. in my haste i didnt realize to ask the guy which cylinder was giveing ther misfire code, if any at all. is it possible for it to give a misfire code without specifying a cylinder and if so could that be related to the hard start issue i have been experiencing? where should i start first? paying back the irs has left me with little in the bank so im tryin to figure out the smartest and most economical way to go about this so any help would be greatly appreciated... thank you

    oh btw, she has almost 63 k on her now and last month i changed the oil/filter, fuel filter & air filter, if that helps at all
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Assuming the plug wires are original and almost 10 years old, bite the bullet and replace ALL of them. They are like shoe laces. Miles on them is not as detrimental as age. The plugs should last another 40K.
  • maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good evening folks,

    I have a 92 MGM that has a rotted oil pan, and requires replacement to remain operational. I know to perform this replacement, we will need to lift the motor. Is there a set of step by step instructions for this replacement available online? I have a new oil pan and gasket, and big engine hoist, and we took the hood off tonight, so we are ready to go. I expect we need to drop the exhaust, disconnect all coolant lines, and scads of other items. Having some detailed instructions would be great though, and we do not have a service manual. Can anyone point me in the direction of an online resource?

    Thanks!
    Rob
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    1. Disconnect ground and positive battery cables.
    2. Remove air inlet tube and drain cooling system. Remove cooling fan and shroud.
    3. Relieve fuel system pressure as described under MAINTENANCE PROCEDURES/FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Disconnect fuel lines.
    4. Remove upper radiator hose, wiper module and support bracket.
    5. Discharge A/C system, then disconnect A/C compressor outlet hose. Remove bolt securing hose assembly to RH coil bracket.
    6. Remove engine electrical harness 42-pin connector from bracket on brake vacuum booster.
    7. Disconnect engine electrical connector, then disconnect transmission harness electrical connector.
    8. Disconnect throttle valve cable at throttle body.
    9. Disconnect heater outlet hose.
    10. Remove RH cylinder head ground strap attaching nut, then remove upper stud and lower bolt securing heater hose to cylinder head.
    11. Remove blower motor resistor, then the RH engine mount to lower engine bracket attaching bolt.
    12. Disconnect exhaust system from manifolds.
    13. Lower exhaust and secure to crossmember with wire.
    14. Position a suitable jack and block of wood below oil pan, rearward of drain plug.
    15. Raise engine approximately four inches, then insert two wood blocks, approximately 2.5-2.75 inches thick, under each engine mount.
    16. Lower engine onto wood blocks and remove jack from below oil pan.
    17. Loosen 16 retaining bolts and remove oil pan. It may be necessary to loosen, without removing, the two nuts on rear transmission mount and raise extension housing of transmission slightly to remove oil pan.
    18. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten to specifications.
  • maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks!!! On the motor mount step, we are having trouble finding the appropriate socket for the through bolts. Are they hex or something? Would anyone know the size? Once we get those two bolts out, the motor should lift up!

    Thanks!
    Rob
  • maytag87maytag87 Member Posts: 37
    Good evening folks,

    Still working on this 92 MGM oil pan swap. Motor mount bolts were 13 mm and we used a flex socket to get to them. We have the motor up on wood blocks over the motor mounts and the trans jacked up a bit. The oil plan is detached but we cannot extract it as the bell housing of the trans is in the way. We would like to avoid removing the trans. Should we pull the oil pan out the front? We may be able to get the motor a touch higher if we remove the wiper motor, but we dont think it will buy us enough clearance. Is this a neccessary step? Any more tips?

    Thanks!
    Rob
  • menteckimentecki Member Posts: 1
    What are the best spark plugs to put in my 2004 P-71 Crown victoria Cop Car ???

    It has 126 thousand on it,,Runs like a top but I don't know if they have ever been replaced???

    Winter is coming so I would like to get them replaced as soon as possible...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Use AWSF-32P

    gap is 1.32-1.42 mm (0.052-0.056 in)
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Replace the wires as well as the plugs.
  • cobrasscobrass Member Posts: 5
    would that work on a 96 grand marquis Ls ?
    I just bought it and I don't know if I should Tune it up before winter.
    can I do it my self, I have tools to do the job.

    Thanks
    Sam,
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    You bought a very nice motor car, but if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

    The seller probably did the necessary to have it run very well so as to market it.
  • martykyjmartykyj Member Posts: 7
    AWSF-32P are no longer used. Ford is notorious for changing plugs. The plug was replaced with SP493. You would find that out when purchasing the plugs because the auto parts store would let you know that the AWSF was replaced.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay thanks for the update marty! I presume the parts books are updated.
  • martykyjmartykyj Member Posts: 7
    That's how I found out that the plugs were changed. It's best to tell the auto parts store the year and model of your car and that you want the platinum~Motorcraft plugs, they will tell you what the plug requirement is or call the Ford dealership. This forum is so so when it comes to specs. You were already given outdated info. The plugs in question fit my "99" GM but I don't know what the spec is for your year. "What's the best plug" to use relies on an opinion answer so I use what the manufacturer recommends. On my car the plugs are good for 100k.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The info came right out of Alldata, which mechanics use but when I look at the Motorcraft site, that number has been superceded.

    Motorcraft shows a variety of plugs for that engine actually, depending on what type you want and also depending on something called a "W engine code" which I don't know about. For that code they list a very similar number to the one from Alldata---AGSF32PM

    SP493 seems to be a platinum plug for the Non W code engines.

    Ford changes their plug numbers so often that by the time he reads this, there will be a new # :P
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    My 01 MGM started missing at 94K miles and I installed the Bosch double platinum plugs I bought at Walmart. That was 22K miles ago and it has been running great ever since then.
  • calpetecalpete Member Posts: 7
    My local dealer has an '08 CV with the commercial pkg. for sale. It's a bare bones car but seems to have all the essentials, which is all I need. Has the heavy duty package which inludes HD shocks, suspension (springs?), stabilizer bar, etc. Has the 2.73 rear axle & conventional engine. Anybody with any experience with one of these have an opinion? Thanks.

    Cal
  • martykyjmartykyj Member Posts: 7
    The 8th digit on the VIN designates the engine code. If it's a "F" them the motor is a 5.0L OHV V8 if it's a "W" then it's a 4.6L OHC V8. I can only repeat what the dealer told me. My 4.6 L engine takes the SP493 spark plug. The local auto parts store checked their computer for AGSF-32P and it cross referenced it to the SP493. The difference between the plugs has something to do with a full thread vs. a half thread. I didn't get into it with the dealer about the thread size. To add more to the confusion, my owners manual lists AWSF32P. That's why I stick to what the Ford dealer told me. If the person that has the cop car wants to know what plug to use, I recommend he contact the Ford dealership and go from there.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    The specs indicate a car that will corner like a locomotive while feeling tiny bumps & crack lines in the road. It will be slower on the take off, but higher in the gas mileage. Keep it out of mountainous territory.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    sounds like your basic NY taxicab. I'd sit on a pillow if I were you, and don't expect to win any drag races.

    On the positive side, might be a comfy enough smooth-road, straight-line, long distance commuter.
  • calpetecalpete Member Posts: 7
    Is 2.73 the standard CV/GM ratio? Am interested in good economy, not speed. Thanks.

    Cal
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    The 2.73 the standard ratio on the CV/GM unless you get the HPP (Handling and Performance Package). I have a 2001 GM LS with the 2.73 and it is plenty adequate. The only other mod I have is a K&N air filter, which has been on for 115K miles and I routinely get 27-29 MPG on the highway. It has been a wonderful car and amazingly still has the original battery, which will be 8 years old next March.
  • martykyjmartykyj Member Posts: 7
    What is the method you use to check the miles per gallon you are getting?
  • ronslakie1ronslakie1 Member Posts: 57
    I have used both the trip computer and actual gas used at fill-up. I have found the car trip computer to be quite accurate. In town driving is in the 17-20 MPG range.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Tire pressure @ 35 psi, highway speed @ 60 mph, last September from Utah to Oregon, = 31.5 mpg, but the car was a 95 T Bird with the 4.6L engine.

    Checked on the level from pump to pump. :)
  • calpetecalpete Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the reply. But I'm wondering why you say it'll get better gas mileage than the standard car. It has the 4.6L engine & the 2.73 rear axle ratio which I assume is standard. What am I missing here? Want good mileage but am also considering a regular MGM which appears to have the same drivetrain setup. Thanks.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    It has been my experience that the 2.73 is the "Economy" axle ratio compared to the standard 3.55 or thereabouts.

    True, most of the driveline is the same, however compare the different hp ratings of the engines, tire size, and axle ratio.

    If mpg is important, lean towards the 2.73 & the standard 4.6L engine.
  • calpetecalpete Member Posts: 7
    In one of the Edmunds customer reviews of the '09 MGM the writer states that he doesn't like, indeed hates, the ride of his '09 compared to his '03 MGM. He attributed the problem to the 17 inch wheels compared to the older 16 inch. He says they changed the wheel size but did nothing else to the suspension to accomodate the larger wheels. The car wanders at high speed compared to his '03. This concerns me since the car I'm considering also has the 17 in. wheels. Do you have an opinion on the 17 inchers & their impact on ride & handling? Thanks.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    My lack of experience with 17's over 16's = no opinion.

    Speculation: The car with 17's may also be equipped with the "handling package" or sometimes called the "touring" option.

    The "handling package" usually included, larger diameter tires, heavier duty stabilizers, air shocks in rear, heavy duty shocks in front, dual exhaust, high output alternator, plus other improvements i.e. 3.27 or 3.55 axle ratio.

    I am told the ride of the car with the "handling package" is not as fluffy as the standard suspension which would more likely have the economy axle ratio, but it corners like a locomotive.
  • bob4374bob4374 Member Posts: 3
    I was wondering if anyone knows if my 2006 Grand Marquis flex fuel has those long two piece spark plugs that fall apart inside of the engine like the trucks have? I'm about to change the plugs in it and I don't want to have any fun and costly suprises
  • yonsei93yonsei93 Member Posts: 22
    Hi,
    My car currently has 145000 mile and the car runs good but the gear seems to shift when I speed going up hill or whenever a speed like a clicking sound. The lights on the radio has gone out and want to bring it back. What is the average cost to replace the rear differential fluid? What kind of services do I need to do? :confuse:
  • zkongzkong Member Posts: 1
    2004 GM. Had CEL on once in Michigan winter, after snow, light salt dust on damp road surface. Went back home, disconnect battery, wait for a while, reconnect the battery, never see it again until next winter. Now at 78000 miles, total twice. My guess is that a sensor temporary malfunction due to weather condition. If it were keept on, then I'd take it to a dealer.
  • fredupafredupa Member Posts: 1
    ONE OF CYLINDERS NOT WORKING I THINK IS CYLINDER # 1 CAN SOMEONE TELL WHAT IS IT AND WHAT CAN I DO TO FIX IT 2000 CROWN VIC THANK YOU
  • martykyjmartykyj Member Posts: 7
    Its not too serious. Go to an auto parts store that offers a free diognostic tool that will verify which cylinder is not fireing. Once that is determined, it could either be the spark plug or the ignition coil that is attached to that particular plug. Each plug has its own ignition coil. If the plugs have not been change in the last 100k miles then it's definately time for a change. The ignition coil is about 35-40$. If you have a garage do the work, the cost for the coil is about $80. If you are not sure of what I'm conveying then you best have the garage do it. That is if the problem is a cylinder is not fireing. Good luck.
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