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Oldsmobile Intrigue Transmission / Suspension Problems

2

Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I don't remember what year or how many miles you have on the Intrigue but if you are over 100k miles, you'll be lucky to get over $2000 on trade. No dealer in their right mind will give fair book value for an out of production, low demand car.

    If everything else is working in the car fine, I would fix the car. You are looking at $2200 in repairs and payments to get free which is not a lot of money. Hopefully you can get another year out of the Intrigue without a major problem which will make the repair worthwhile. then you can save for a down payment on a new car if something else major happens.

    I have not heard of any other issues with the transmission.
  • tres_74tres_74 Member Posts: 16
    Sorry for the late response...

    I have a 1999 Olds Intrigue GX with 128,000 miles on it.

    And this is the only thing, besides general maintenance and wear and tear, that has given problems for this car. A good drive otherwise.

    I would prefer to keep it and drive all I can out of it, especially because, like you mention, no car dealership will give me what it's really worth, even if I have it fixed. Usually in the past experiences I've had, they'll usually give you MAYBE $500-$1000 for the trade-in if it's that old. And Intrigues seem to be for sale EVERYWHERE around here too, so not really a hot commodity.

    I really appreciate your honesty, thanks for your help!

    ~Tracy
  • playaplayaplayaplaya Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Olds Intrigue with 133,000miles. There has been an oil leak but Im not sure if it has anything to do with this problem. The car just stop moving one day at a stop light. As soon as I push the gas it said "NO" and we were stuck at the light. It was making a LOUD, VERY LOUD grinding sound. None of the gears work, not P,R,N,D,2,or 1. I have to put on parking brake for car to stay still. What should I do, salvage and move on or fix??? some said it might just be the drive shaft?? :cry: :confuse:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    My suggestion is run it into the ground. You should get another 50k miles out of this car. Of course you have to do some repairs but what I found is if you do some searching on the internet, most of the problems are known with the Intrigue. Minus a full blown transmission, most of the repairs are fairly reasonable and some you can do yourself if you are handy under the hood.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I would definitely get it diagnosed. Depending on the diagnosis, cost of the repair and your personal finances, you can decide if it is worth it or start shopping around. If it is not an expensive repair, get it fixed but start saving for another car.
  • tres_74tres_74 Member Posts: 16
    Well a couple weeks ago we took the car in to a small-town tranny shop who'd had rave reviews no matter where we turned - - and $1200 and a fully rebuilt transmission later, my car runs as my husband put it, "like an animal". It runs great, there must have been a lot of tranny issues that I just got used to because they came on gradually or something because it runs 200% better than it has in a LOOONNNNG time.

    I'll have this car paid off by the end of this year, and I fully intend on just running it til it doesn't run anymore. After all, from my experiences with this car as well as what I've read online, the tranny is about the only major issue with this car and that's been taken care of. I've got a 1 year warranty on this rebuilt tranny so that's even better.

    Thanks for all your advice and help. (And yes, thankfully my husband is able to do most everything as far as car repairs.)

    ~Tracy :)
  • carsrfun2carsrfun2 Member Posts: 3
    I would say you either have a problem with the Alternator or the ignition control Module (ICM) !!! It could be a misfire I have a 99 GLS 3.5 V6 and have had a 2 sensors replaced and the alternator!! Take it to a reputable mechinc I recomend ASE Master Techs!! Or Napa/ chevron shops!!
  • carsrfun2carsrfun2 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 intrigue with the 3.5L engine and I have a problem between 35-45 mph where it shifts really hard( you can feel it it almost feels like it misses 3rd. If you floor it, it will shift again at 60 mph really hard! Then I have a problem with a very high idol sometimes it idols as high has 3,000 RPM. Any ideas or any one have the same problem??
  • mtrammtram Member Posts: 6
    I had the voltage on the battery and alternator check and it checked out fine. Also had a new starter and battery cables put in a week ago. After talking to several shops, my next try is the ignition control module. I'm told that the starting and going dead issue are two symptoms of the ICM going bad. Is there a way to check the ICM to be certain it is that before I pour more $$$ in to this car?

    The problem I was having with the hard shifting is fixed. I had new plugs and wires put in and the car is running great with more power than ever. if the dang thing would crank and not go dead while driving I may get another 100K miles. The crazy thing is...it's so random. It may crank on the first try for 3-4 days then not crank.
  • 99intrigue99intrigue Member Posts: 2
    My Olds had the same problem for a couple of years. I recently found out it is the "Crankshaft Position Sensor". That part of my car is fixed... I have 127k miles and just now having to replace motor mounts and possibly a transmission.

    Just checking this site to see if anyone is having the transmission problem with the 3.5 ??. :confuse:
  • 99intrigue99intrigue Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem on and off for a couple of years. I lately found out it is the "Crankshaft Position Sensor". At a local parts store around $60.
    My 3.5 is still shifting hard, transmission :confuse:
    I checked my trans fluid and it has the metal color on my rag.
    Anyone have any ideas?
  • mick1mick1 Member Posts: 84
    I had the CPS fixed in 1 week, check engine light went on and the computer stored a code. How many years has the tranny been giving you problems? Wait for the engine to blow and you won't need a tranny repair.
  • gur1gur1 Member Posts: 1
    GM Transmision Intermittent Hard Shifting, Clunking, Jerking

    GM 4T65E - 4 speed automatic transmissions found in many
    1997 and newer vehicles equipped with the 3800 engine and
    most 2000 and newer vehicles with the 3400 and 3500 engines.

    Description:
    Everything is fine when you just started engine.
    (It’s just fine when cold)
    Sometimes after a long drive, stop and go traffic, or when accelerate really fast. All of the sudden you’ll notice "hard shifts" where car slightly jerks when it shifts. Shutting off the car for few (10 minutes) will make this condition go away until you drive a few more miles or the vehicle warms up and the hard shifting will return. (Notice Check Engine light remains OFF)

    This is perhaps one of the most common problems with this transmission. It has been a problem since the release in 1997 and can happen for no reason at all even with clean fluid and very low mileage.

    Solution:
    Replacing Pressure Control Solenoid or EPC will most likely correct this condition and again is probably the most common problem found in any year of this transmission.

    Details:
    The EPC solenoid controls line pressure and has a spool valve which oscillates back and forth to regulate transmission line pressure based on commanded pcm signals dependant on lots of various inputs from the vehicle. The spool valve in the solenoid will bind up and cause loss of pressure control from the pcm. The pcm constantly monitors shift timing in milliseconds and if this is not within programmed parameters after a few shift cycles the pcm triggers trouble code P1811 which is Max Adapt/Long Shift. This code will not set the Engine Light but will dissable all adaptive shifts and will max out line pressure in the transmission which causes the harsh shifts...

    Other solution is using premium engine oil to keep systems running cooler.

    I have 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with 155.000 Km. when it started happening.

    Valvoline engine oil worked-out as an alternative solution to replacing EPC the Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid
  • intrigued2ownintrigued2own Member Posts: 1
    I'm not replying to brag, just to inform people on here in alternative way. I have a 1998 Intrigue I had bought new which currently has 202k with the original 3800 Series II engine/transmission. Never had any issues with either one or any electrical issues. I have had to replace the alternator and radiator one time at around 150k. I'm very meticulous with the maintenance schedules on my car and have always performed them ahead of the manual schedules. I believe that the schedules in the manual are drawn out way longer than they should be. I have also lived in the Midwest and the south and don't think any maintenance performed ahead of schedule is overkill. Every oil change has only had "Mobile 1" pure synthetic @ 2k and I have had the transmission fluid and filter changed every 30k. My transmission is the 4T70E which has never returned a code. :D

    On a side note: If you're thinking of ever changing from Dex-Cool to green, I advise against it. What will happen is the green will eventually start to pit the metals inside the engine. My engine has always had the Dex-Cool and it's never caused any of the problems other people report. This could be due to the fact that I have always performed every maintenance task in at least half the recommended scheduled time. I completely understand that not every Intrigue has the same reliability, however if maintenance schedules were performed in half the time (or at least earlier) than the manual suggests, perhaps many owners issues may be avoided. Just some food for thought. :)
  • bold_1bold_1 Member Posts: 31
    Intrigedtown, I recently had Jiffy lube change the coolant and put Gold Plus in there. The mechanic crossed out Dex Cool on the Sticker next to the reservoir and wrote gold plus. Do you know if this is harmful?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Oil change with synthetic at every 2000 miles????? Big time waste of money.

    The issue is not Dex Cool but the poorly designed upper intake manifold gasket in the 3.8L engine. Very common issue on all GM small block V6. finally came out with a re-designed gasket in 2003.

    Many of the issues folks are having with the Intrigue has nothing to do with the maintenance schedule. Blinking headlights caused by a poorly designed alternator; poorly designed intermediate steering shaft; upper intake manifold failure (3.8L); problems with crankshaft position sensor; faulty ignition switch; excessive oil consumption; Secondary air pump; and it goes on and on.

    Maybe there are poorly designed parts in the vehicle instead of lack of maintenance that has caused many of the problems. Just some food for thought. :)
  • jman33163jman33163 Member Posts: 3
    hello
    my father has a 2000 olds intrigue with over 200,000 miles on it. the transmission does not have a whine or make any other noises, shifts smoothly, not hard or jerky, but does not shift into overdrive any longer. this just started last week, which was about a week after (with help from others on this forum) cleaning the throttle body, maf senser, air filter and replacing the crank position sensor. don't think they should be related but mention just in case. has anyone had this problem? or know of a fix for it? i know the car has lots of miles and owes him nothing :) but he wants to keep it for a daily driver and keep miles off of his 95 vette and moms 04 caddy deville. thanks for any help you can provide for this problem. the info on this sight was very helpful in repairing the above mentioned problem with the crank sensor.
    jman
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Here's a discussion on your exact problem. Good luck.

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=758495&highlight=over- drive
  • jman33163jman33163 Member Posts: 3
    thank you dtownfb :) that is exactly what it is doing. doesn't sound good :( thank you so much for the link.

    jman
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Unfortunately this transmission is not one of GM's best. It seems like it is hit or miss. I consider myself very lucky as i have 151k on my 2000 Intrigue and so far no issue with the tranny. Other items, yes but not the transmission.
  • jman33163jman33163 Member Posts: 3
    yeah, i have been reading of all kinds of issues with this tranny while researching this problem. still though, hard to argue with more than 200,000 miles (i believe it is around 227,000).

    i called and told him the bad news but, he hasn't decided what he is going to do with it. he may run it till it blows the tranny up or may fix it. he was dissapointed it wasn't going to be an easy fix though :mad:

    thanks again for the link! :shades:

    jman
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    227,000 miles is nothing to sneeze at. That is the most miles I have heard from an Intrigue with original equipment.
  • carsrfun2carsrfun2 Member Posts: 3
    I wouldn't put in anthing in, but Dex- Cool because it may damage parts in the long run. I have two GM's One Intrigue and one Rendvous and have always put dex-cool in them and have had no probelms. I also have chrysler and will only put Mopar coolent in it.
  • marykinsmarykins Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 6 cyl. 3800 which I absolutely love. I am wondering if any other Intrigue owners out have experienced a LOUD - high pitched squealing sound in, around or under the center console? It lasts only about 30 seconds upon start up. This noise is horrific, almost SCREACHING at me, then stops as suddenly as it starts. It does not seem to have any disabling effects, but is VERY unnerving!! I am so worried that something MAJOR is about to go out and leave me stranded.

    Any CLUES?
  • markb432markb432 Member Posts: 1
    Yes, my 2002 GL with the 3.5 does the same thing. I've been too lazy to et mine fixed. If you search this site you will find several other reports. Searching for "whinning" results in some hits. Here is one I found.

    Engine Whine by mfd37
    I've got a 2002 Intrigue and had a whine that lasted for about 30-45 seconds when the car was started cold and then it was never consistant enough to pinpoint. I took it to the dealer and they immediately identified it as a "second stage air intake motor". Seems the motor was binding and causing the whine. It was replaced under warranty and hasn't been a problem since.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    markb432 has got it right. This motor is only necessary at startup for emissions purposes. It shouldn't affect driving but you could fail the emissions portion of the annual inspection. Common problem with the Intrigues.

    Is the Service engine soon light on in your Intrigue?
  • marykinsmarykins Member Posts: 2
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    I'm not certain, but I don't think the 98/3.8 engine has the secondary air pump. See models below from TSB 04-06-04-037.

    Models:
    2000-2002 Buick Regal
    2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
    2000-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
    2000-2002 Pontiac Grand Prix
    with 3.5L or 3.8L Engine (VINs H, K - RPOs LX5, L36)
  • surfmansurfman Member Posts: 11
    I have a '99 Intrigue GLS with the 3800 series engine with 69,400 miles on it. Have used Mobil 1 from first oil change on and have changed the coolant regularly. Had the tranny fluid changed at the recommended intervals. However, I have exactly the same intermittant hard shifting as described by gur1 in post 65 of 80. Question is this: how do you change the PCS and/or EPC? Is this something I can do by dropping the pan, draining the fluid, and changing the filter? If not, what can I expect to pay (ballpark number) for this service? If I am able to perform this, can somone provide me instructions on how to do it. Thanks to all who can help. My wife got a new car so this is now mine for driving to work. I love driving this car and want to keep it for a long time.

    Dave
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Here is the very brief procedure from Alldata for a 2002. I think the hard part is getting access to the PCS. It's through the side access cover, not the bottom. My van needed a new one. It was $600 (USD) about 4 years ago. I've seen a couple of posts for W body cars that were a little more. The standard labor for this repair is 4.6 hours. You can do the math if you get the parts cost and the local labor rate. Don't forget to add the infamous shop supplies, environmental fees, boat payment, etc...

    1. Remove the case side cover.
    2. Disconnect the pressure control solenoid electrical connector.
    3. Remove the retaining clip (314E).
    4. Remove the pressure control solenoid (322).
  • surfmansurfman Member Posts: 11
    indrqb,

    Thanks for the info. Do you or anyone else have drawings, photos, sketches, etc. for the replacement of the PCS. This would help me out alot. Also, where (which side) on the vehicle is this side cover located and is it easy to access? Thanks in advance for your help.

    Dave
  • indrgbindrgb Member Posts: 115
    Sorry, I do not. I think it's on the drivers side facing the left front wheel. I think it's somewhat hard to get to that's why GM's labor rate is 4 1/2 hours for an experienced tranny technician.
  • rosscmrosscm Member Posts: 13
    I went in to change the break pads and said "Oh, and flush the transmission" This was just for the sake of regular maintenance. The car was running like a dream and only had 40000miles on it. Big mistake. I am not sure what I should have said but what I wanted was for them to stick the clear hose down the tranny dipstick hole like they do at Valvoline and pump out the old stuff until it runs pink and clear in the tube. What they did was change the filter and the gasket. I looked at my bill, started to say something then thought, maybe its a good thing. Within a week my car was bucking into first. At five weeks I was in an intersection and the car just made a mush sound when I tried to accelerate. I got into a parking lot and got mush in drive and reverse. I towed it to a transmission shop and they said it was *%&^ed. I was shocked when they said this. I am not a mechnic. 1900$ later I have a rebuilt transmission on a car with less than 42k miles
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    I hate flushing. You can never trust the bozo doing it, procedure, pressures clealiness and fluid type .

    That said, had you checked the fluid after you got it home.
  • tdrawbridgetdrawbridge Member Posts: 5
    My sister bought her 2000 Intrigue about 6 years ago and had some problems with it from the get-go. I just put the car back on the road and sent it to a specialist at a shop that works specifically with electrical problems. I went back to have it inspected, by the same folks who worked on it, and I failed, b/c my check engine light popped up sometime in the time I drove the car to the shop and they turned it on for the inspection. Is there any way to turn the light off so I can get an inspection sticker??

    Also, the folks that worked on my car were supposed to have fixed my blinkers, but didn't. They will work fine one second, then not work at all. Its not the lamps or the connection, any idea what it could be??
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    From what I understand about the "check engine" light is the code can be cleared but the car needs several "starts" before teh system is reset. Of course, the check engine light is on for a reason and if you get the code read, we can probably help isolate the problem.
  • tdrawbridgetdrawbridge Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply. To be honest, I don't really understand what this whole "code" issue is I don't understand. How bad is emissions problems usually? The blinker works randomly in both the front and rear blinkers, but then will turn off on both of them. The actual blinking action, in the front light bulbs they will light up solidly, but will not actually blink. They don't blink on the interior either when not blinking on the outside. I can't figure it out and am very nervous about driving with blinkers that don't always work.

    any suggestions?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    When a sensor is operating outside of it's range, it throws a "code". You see it as the "Service Engine Soon" light on your dashboard. These sensors monitor your car and makes sure everything is working like it is suppose to. There are literally over a thousand codes. Sometimes you get lucky and you can erase the code and it does not come back. Does not happen often. The problem may not affect your driving but unfortunately in most states, they will pass your vehicle with the check engine light on.

    Luckily we have so many people on this forum who have first hand experience with most of these codes that if you know the number of the code, they can help you diagnose the problem.

    As far as the blinking problem, here are a couple of links to another Intrigue forum. These people had similar problems that you are having.

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=228733&highlight=prob- lem+with+blinkers

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=620417&highlight=prob- lem+with+blinkers

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=759308&highlight=prob- lem+with+blinkers
  • rdealrdeal Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a wiring schematic for a 2000 Olds Intrigue, Referring to the tranny wiring. Need a diagram if anyone has one to share.
  • ronny6ronny6 Member Posts: 2
    The trans slips in drive first gear then shifts into second and up normally.
    However, when manually placing the shifter in first or second then manually shiftilng into drive it works ok. Is this a sensor problem or the lilke? RON
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The issues I have heard most about pertaining to this transmission is the torque converter. It normally happens in shifting from 3rd to 4th. The simplest thing you can try is changing the transmission fluid.
  • ronny6ronny6 Member Posts: 2
    It's only FIRST gear slip in drive from a stop but not in manual FIRST. That's why I don't think it's the torque. (It's not from 3rd to 4th.) And we have changed the trans fluid. Any other suggestions/thoughts??
  • papampapam Member Posts: 1
    After having my Mazda totaled, I am looking for a replacement car to get two teens through their driver's test. Want to get 4-5 years from this car. It has 55K miles on it and looks brand new. Driver's door control panel for windows looks like it has been removed/replaced. How good is this car really? The reviews seems too good to be true. Driving it was good, except for a small bump-clunk when turning (left most of the time). Could feel it through steering wheel but also could feel it through the brake. Am I getting a good car or a bucket of potential problems?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The window motors are a common failure on this car. The bump-clunk could be a couple of things: wheel bearing, tie rod or the infamous intermediate steering shaft (ISS). many have fixed the ISS by greasing the steering shaft connection under the dash. If you are handy, you can fix the wheel bearing yourself. The tie rod is a mechanic's job.

    The Intrigue is a hit or miss vehicle. There are many well known issues that may or may not affect your Intrigue: flickering lights (alternator), ISS, ignition switch, mass air flow filter, crank shaft sensor, cam shaft sensor, fuel pressure regulator, secondary air pump, window motors, overheating issues, torque converter control sensor, etc. Again not all Intrigues will have these problems.

    One thing to remember the Intrigues with the 3.5 L engine has 215 hp. That is a lot of power for teenagers learning to drive. Just something to consider. IF the owner has shown they have kept up with maintenance and the price is right, it may be a good value.
  • jimpapkejimpapke Member Posts: 1
    I have a GM 4t65e auto transmission. It started "clunking"into the gears when in traffic. It is a rebuilt transmission as of 40k miles ago. Took it to AAMCO. the mechanic there brought it inside, firmly stepped on the break put it in gear and revv'd the engine several times. the wheels were shuddering. He then took of the pan cover and showed me a good size metal chunk that was in the pan, the fluid was otherwise clear, smelled fine. They then said that they'll have to take the transmission apart and replace the soft parts. Should cost in the neighborhood of $1500. Does anyone out there think I'm getting ripped off? :sick:
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Get a second opinion and go to an independent transmission shop.
  • daddyoscottdaddyoscott Member Posts: 3
    I just received the zz performance shift kit and am going to install with new Dexron VI fluid. I've seen positive comments about this kit and hope it helps with the shifting firmness. Any I should do during this proceedure other than follow the directions?
  • ejap3000ejap3000 Member Posts: 1
    hi, i have the same problem code with my car and was wondering what wire did you cut to get it to act right and is it working good now. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks
  • tcarroll00tcarroll00 Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone, I am new to the site. I have spent hours looking at old posts and while theyre all very helpful, I still havent seen what my problem is.

    A little history: Its a 2000 GX, It has about 145,000 miles on it. I've replaced the radiator, water pump (twice), reservoir tank, Mass airflow sensor, wheel and hub assembly and other random stuff.

    While driving (stop and go) when coming to a stop I'd swear that my car is gonna stall but it (always) catches itself and brings the RPMs back up. Then upon taking off again there is violent jerking. I am positive its the torque converter, but I am having so many problems and I have taken it everywhere from autozone to GM. I was told that my torque converter is stuck "open?" or on.

    I have intentions on getting my transmission replaced (rebuilt) , I will be getting the final verdict on it soon.

    I love this car and have no plans on abandoning it, even though my camry ran like a dream it just didnt have the umph to get into traffic. Any input would help.

    A few other questions....

    are the spark plugs a pain to replace? and how long should a spark plug cycle last?

    and why is it so common for my car to burn through like a quart of oil a month or so?

    I do not have a manual, but reading around i have seen that there is something that controls my idle and sometimes can get gunked up? (like an air intake thing).

    Thank you all for your time, and im looking forward to any reply.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The common problem with the torque converters in these cars are normally 3rd to 4th gear shift after acceleration. I haven't heard of the torque converter causing a near stall while braking. Are you having any other issues with shifting while driving? I've read many people swear by Lucas oil treatment for transmissions and have had luck with this helping the torque converter. Before doing a rebuild, try replacing the transmission fluid and adding a bottle of Lucas transmission treatment. Never tried it but some people have had luck with it.

    Do you have any "check engine" lights on? If so, get the car scanned and post the codes.

    The front spark plugs are easy to change, the rear 3 are PITA. Others have reported needing an extended socket wrench. some have reported removing the engine mounts and "tilting" the engine to give more clearance. I took a quick look and saw this was too much for me to handle and had my mechanic replace my spark plugs. He commented they were tough to reach and the bill reflected as much. the spark plugs are 100k plugs.

    The 3.5L engine is derived from the 4.0L Northstar engine (also used in the Aurora). This engine burns oil. i was burning about a quart every 1500-2000 miles. There are many discussion about this on the internet. Most are too detailed for interests but no one has found a solution.
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