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If you could find the places on the internet giving you instructions, you can display and reset the error codes from the buttons on the dash.
If you can't do this, you call pull the negative battery cable for a minute and this will reset the error codes. Then, have your freon hoses all hooked up before you restart the car, and you might be able to turn the AC system on and suck in enough freon before it resets the code. Might have to do this a couple of times to get enough freon in to stop setting the codes. Of course, this assumes you only have a leak and the rest of the AC system works ok.
No idea about the fan.
what is this??? its scary so far has only happened at home in my garage door is open every time but I wonder if it will happen in the parking lot at work or store whatever car only has 58K miles on it.
Help!!!!!
-The connector that feeds power to the fan fails. It doesn't make good contact or something, overheats, and basically somewhat melts. This contact is under the hood, near the firewall, on the passenger side.
-On some years, the controller module that controls the fan speed fails in a certain way. When it fails, it will turn the fan on, even if the ignition is totally turned off. This module is inside, behind the glove compartment, on top of the air box.
After completely dismantleing the interior and removing the Instrument panel I've traced my problem to an actautor but cannot get it to make the tick, tick, tick sound again. I want to replace it but having trouble removing the old one and cannot find a parts store that carries the part. I'm afraid there is an electrical connector disconnected that is preventing me from getting it to make the ticking sound but if I put it all back together without replacing the actuator, bingo. Any sugesstions, when I connect enough connectors to get the blower to work it blows air out of the right vents.
Thank you
There are 2 or 3 sensors in the AC lines that sense high pressure, low pressure, high temp (not exactly sure of these, but these are generally what is being checked). These conditions are usually set when the freon is low. If any of these sensors detect out-of-range conditions, they send a signal to the 'computer', and the computer will NOT allow the AC to be turned on. And it turns the display to Econ, AC off.
Fix your AC system.
The "tick, tick, tick, sound has stopped.
I'm thinking it must be the adl module or the wires to it but I have no idea where its located. I looked at one at autozone so I would know what it looked like and have the dash wide open and don't see it. Any ideas?
It's my bosses car and it's sat five years because his normal shop had given up on it. Spose I could get a raise if I figured it out? Yeah right.
It might be the dash control unit (about $250???), but I bet its a servo or jammed door.
Your Cadillac can display error codes that have been set. Without having to get a code reader plugged in. It can be set into diagnoistic mode and you can scroll thru all the codes that are set. If the air temp door are not functioning correctly, it probably is setting a code. And knowing the code will tell you more about what is wrong.
Go here to read how to get into diagnostic mode and how to scroll thru them.
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/cadidiag.html#2000
Go here to get more info about specific codes.
http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html#rea
I want to know if you have solved your problem and how. I have been told that I will need to replace the BCM (does this stand for Blower Control Module?). I will be taking this vehicle in for repairs at my local Cadillac dealer and shop, and I don't want this problem to be shrouded in mystery. Two years ago, when this happened, same dealer suggested pulling the negative off the battery to 'reset' the Computer. That does work, but only for a few minutes now as the time it does work has been steadily decreasing over these last two years from a day or two to only a few minutes - then shuts down again, displaying that dreaded 'c' on the panels.
Thanks if you can help! Sandy