Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

fredrikt · June 2005

Take a spray bottle and mix some fabric softener and spray it on the seats or take a damp cloth, pour some fabric softener on it, and rub it over the seats. This usually helps with the static electricity!

rchlslmn · June 2005

I purchased a used 01 escape last june with 26k thinking that it would be a good family car. The car has currently less than 36k miles. In January the check engine light came on and I had to replace the CPU (central processing unit). (Yes, I do know that there is recall out on this part - recall was performed - did not fix the problem). In March of this year the check engine light came on again and this time ford said the culprit was a faulty ignition coil (they only had me pay for the part - said they had seen a few of these come in due to all the rains in southern cali this year.) Two days ago my check fuel cap light came on, today my check engine light came on - has anyone else had these repetitive engine lights?? Any suggestions?

rcinmd · June 2005

I have sheep on my seats...... not sure wet sheep would smell very good. I have used sheepskins for many years, and never had the problem with static associated with them. I am still thinking it is the tire compound with the Continentals.
As for the other sundry creaks, either all my spraying of the suspension and weatherstripping has helped, or the high temps have reduced them. I will apply more lubricant to the suspension joints and seals soon.

The vehicle is running well, if a bit leisurely. The shifting action of the 5 speed has greatly smoothed out, and frankly is nicer than my Accord's was. Clutch action is as well smooth as compared to new. I test drove a Mazda6 5 door stick prior to buying the Tribute, and it, too, had a very abrupt clutch take up, so maybe that is typical of new Mazda products. The AC is not as freezing cold as the Accord's was, or my friend's Hyundai Elantra, but that is somewhat typical of Mazda from what I understand. Or maybe it is typical of Ford in this instance.

pdc2 · June 2005

reply to 3026.

I have an escape 02 XLT v 6 and had one stalling experience without any warning lights etc, about June 02. Saw the message .1567 and enclosure therein; brought a copy of the quoted TSB to my dealer and had the engine tested and PCM reprogrammed. No further engine stalling to date.
The same TSB may be relevant in your case.

escapenut · June 2005

On my way to work yesterday when the the instrument panel lit-up like a Christmas Tree with every conceivable lamp flashing or staying on. '01V6 XLT
conked-out at the next stoplight. I was able to start it briefly to pull into a store
parking-lot. I had it towed to a reputable neighborhood auto-shop. The tech.
diagnosed it as a bad alternator within five-minutes after testing several things.
Alternator (remanufactured) - $242.00
Labor - $157.00 (had to get to alternator from underneath vehicle, take apart
lower control arm, fender-well splach shield and various other
parts).
Total = $469.00 (including tow).
Looks to be a valid way to change the alternator per my ALLDATA subscription
that I checked out. Rather expensive, but it was 2.0 standard labor rate hours,
d/t dissembly of front parts to remove and install it. That was just about correct
too. Not like the some of the old alternators sitting up near the top that you can
to more easilly. Runs great now that it's done, no flashing panel lights or
electrical glitches. The only forewarning-sign I had was that my radio went dead
about 2-minutes before I got to stoplight, which I though was strange. Then
the instrument panel lights went kaflooey, next everything shuts-down. Not too
good of a feeling being totally shut-down in morning traffic.
If it's any consolation the shop-owner says that he has not seem too many failures
on the Ford alternators. He did say he changes GM alternators, ~10-times more often than Ford. Just so happened that mine was the the Ford-one to fail that day
or week... I'm not disappointed, becasue most alternator failures I've had have
occurred 70-90K range on most any car I've owned previously.

teech · June 2005

I've had difficulty in fueling my 05 Escape. Something was obstruction the fueling tube into the tank and would cause the pump nozzle to click off, regardless of rate of delivery or how far I inserted the pump nozzle. The Ford service dept. said when they blew out the tube, they found spider webs. Apparently Ford has a service code for that and recommended I install a spider screen. How would it be possible for a spider to construct a web there and obstruct the flow of gas and oxygen?

f111d · June 2005

What ashame, these service departments get worst than better! I sure hope you told the service manager he's been sniffing to many fumes?
I bet it's the same thing that it's was with the Contours/Mystiques, the one-way roll-over flapper valve at the end of the filler tube sticks. Must have been a big supply of them left over?
My 98 Mystique every now then does after a sudden warm up in the spring. It's a long story, but I found a piece of 3/16" diameter semi-ridged nylon tubing that about 8 inches long than needed where it contacts the flapper at the end of the filler pipe. Couple easy strokes pull out the tubing and fill away.
It's great to find a sight like the CEG -contour.org where a bunch of car buffs sharing info. Especially early in the site's history Ford/Visteon engineers participated in helping us.
Unfortunately the CEO Nasser put a stop to that and then stopped production to build your Escape.
I'm lookin for another such site and then I'll buy that car. Of course my 98 Mystique LS built 07/97 I'll be keeping it at least anyother l0 years, waiting for the manufactures to use common sense and offer CR diesel in a drivers chassis car. Tests where conducted a couple years ago in Europe on CR diesel 2.7liter v-6 220 hp 345 ft.lbs. torque @1900 43+mpg at stead 70 mph. It was planned for a Jag model. I lost track of what happened.

Paul

oskwi · June 2005

Well, I have currently am renting a 2005 XLT V-6 and I really enjoy the drive. I haven't driven any type of SUV before so it's a pleasure to be a little higher than a sedan!

I've noticed some transmission problems with some of the older Escapes and was wondering what types of problems anyone is experiencing regarding the 2004's and 2005's. I can't complain about the gas mileage either...I got over 110 miles per 1/4 tank so far...mixed city and highway driving with the air conditioning on...it's 90+ here (Buffalo) today with VERY high humidity. (I can't give a more precise MPG figure since I've only had the car since this morning, BUT I was figuring I'd be lucky to get 50 miles or so per 1/4 tank...)

Any info. would be appreciated. I just may go trade my Mazda for a smaller SUV...PLUS with a move down to Louisville in a few weeks, a Ford product may make for an easier transition for a "northener"

(Louisville has two huge Ford plants that I know of)

Thanks in advance for any information.

fredrikt · June 2005

I installed the trailer hitch hardware to my 2004 Escape which was pretty easy (about 3 hours). Now I need to install the wire harness. The end that connects to a trailer was easy enough, but does anybody know where the little white plastic connector is supposed to be connected to the car?

dc_driver · June 2005

I find this really hard to believe.. My Tribute has done this twice at the same gas station several months ago (cut-off early). I did some research on other Escape/Tribute sites and it turns out that this happens to quite a few owners. I switched to a different gas station and have not had the problem since. Not sure what the problem is, but the problem does not seem to be consistent.

heyjude1 · June 2005

I also own a 01 Tribute and it has clutch problems.... it shudders in first gear, mostly when the engine is cold. This has happened for a few years and I have had a new clutch replaced when it was under warrenty. BUT it still shudders and now the service department at the dealer says that it is caused by the clutch wearing out. NOT! They say that it is not necessary to replace the clutch right away, but to wait til it totally wears out!!! We are going to insist that it is covered by warrenty, but who knows!!!

mycar5 · June 2005

Help! Ever since I bought my 2001 Tribute (bought it new), I've had an intermittent problem that occurs more and more frequently now and whenever I bring it in to a mechanic (as recently as this month), they can't replicate the problem. The problem? It won't start. Not a battery problem, apparently not a starter problem...suspect it's electrical or something to do with the security thing (I have to admit I don't know much about cars though). When it happens (with no predictable pattern of occurence), the lights on the dashboard light up, there is no turnover noise, just a slightly buzzing sound. It has always eventually restarted under these scenarios: 1) I leave the car, lock it up, come back in about 15 or 20 minutes and it starts (this method works best); 2) only once has it re-started when I've shifted it back and forth between Neutral and Park and tried started it each time (didn't work immediately, but did after a couple tries); 3) stayed in the car and tried to start it every few minutes, shifting between Neutral and Park, unlocking and locking the doors, tried the other key I own (this has worked twice, but it definitely took the longest).

This problem is driving me nuts enough to get rid of it, but no one will want to buy it with this crazy problem. Please advise if you have this problem or any ideas about what it might be. Thank you so much!!

weiss1 · June 2005

I have 2003 Tribute ( which I love) that blows a puff of blue smoke at start up. It doesnt do it every time but I am concerned. I has 19885 miles on it and the oil has been changed every 3000 miles. The car does not get driven but twice a week. I am going to call Mazda this week. Has anybody noticed this on their Tributes?

tnn · June 2005

Does anyone else have this engine pinging problem?
My new 2005 Escape XLT engines pings using 87 octane gas. It will ping under the slightest load and going up slight inclines. I've had it back to the dealer at least 3 times, they've decarbonized the engine twice but it has not fixed the problem.
Then they say they cannot duplicate the problem.
The Escape has 10K mileage so far.
Going to 89 octane will reduce the pinging buy won't make it go away.
Manual recommends 87 octane.

Thanks for any comments.

snowman · June 2005

Duratec engines don't have history of pinging. The best bet for you to have your MAF sensor, coolant temperature sensor and PCM checked. THese are the main 3 components may cause ping. Carbonization should not be an issue for an engine with 10K miles on it.Also, you may have defective plug wires too. The dealer you are visiting doesn't seem like giving you enough attention. Try to visit different dealer.

tnn · June 2005

thanks, sounds like there may be hope.

cal0kie · June 2005

Let's just say all the proper maintenance was done and that I do not abuse the transmission, I have and don't, but what I am mostly interested in is if anyone has had the same experience and or knows if maybe the transmission shop misdiagnosed the problem.

In brief; I live in the foothills of the Sierras so I do go up and down some pretty good inclines on a regular basis and I had just noticed that there was a whirring type noise as I was headed up the hill to my house. I made a mental note that I better get it to the ship the following day but alas it was too late since the next morning on the way to work it started revving without engaging. I checked the fluid and it was clean and full, no leaks and really no clunking, grinding or breaking type noise leading up to the failure. I had it towed to a Monroe transmission who estimated the cost would probably be around $2.6k at the max. This was on Tuesday and they thought they could have it done on Friday. Well, Friday came and about 3pm when I was going to go pick it up they said that it was not passing their driving test after reinstalling and that they would not have it ready till Monday/Tuesday the next week. Ok I am thinking, better to take some time and get it right. Tuesday I go to pick it up and it cost, guess how much? $2.6k and you know how you sometimes just start to get a feeling that you are not being told the whole story? Well, I trying to get the guy to explain what caused the failure and they were very vague saying this or that "may" or "could" cause a failure. And then he also said (and this is where I started to feel they made an initial misdiagnoses) is that a solenoid was bad and that he was worried the mechanics would have to remove the whole tranny again to replace which he said they didn't and it was easy to replace.

So, I am wondering if perhaps the solenoid was not what caused the failure and whether the transmission shop rebuilt my transmission when it didn't really have to, at my expense (I believe they rebuilt it and on Friday when they tested it still didn't work and that's when they determined the solenoid was bad). Does anyone know what the symptoms are for a solenoid failure on this make and model is? Any experiences such as this? Am I way off base? If not any recourse?

Thanks for listening and I appreciate any feedback.

escapenut · June 2005

In my car-repair experiences over the years, you'll never get a shop to totally admit that they were wrong. In some cases yes, but as a whole no. Kind of sad that the shops that misdiagnose something end up costing consumers, I would guess, millions every year. My guess is, and I'm not a mechanic, is that it probably could've been the solenoid or possibly a cheaper fix. I'm not saying that the shop is disreputable, just that they may have gotten this one wrong this time.
As an example, my alternator gave-out a few weeks back. I had my Escape towed to a shop which is(was) purported to be a good shop (in business 20 yrs.).
They replaced the alternator (turned out to be more than they bargained for) just fine, but in so doing my inner CV joint was messed-up by them, for which they did take repsonsibility. They sent the half-shaft out to reuild it, and re-installed it. Done deal, right ? CV shaft seems o.k., but I've got a strange noise (sounds like knuckles cracking) when I accelerate from a stop either from the suspension, or from the re-built half-shaft. The shop can't figure it out, but swares it's not the re-built half-shaft. They sprayed WD-40 all over the suspension components, didn't do any good (I knew it probably wouldn't) thinking the noise would go away. It hasn't, but hasn't gotten worse to date. The owner-mechanic and his lead-mechanic have heard the noise too, test-driven my Escape and simply cannot figure out where the noise is emanating from (or so they say). They're nice enough and they say that they want to get it right, but have not made a 2nd effort to diagnose it and get it right. Things happen, and anywhere you take your vehicle is a gamble. I will not be taking my vehicle back there unless they can eliminate the noise that they created when they did the original alternator replacement.

rib · June 2005

My cruise control doesn't turn on. Is there a fuse to this system? anybody experienced this problem?

rib · June 2005

brake booster

escapenut · June 2005

rib,

You may want to check the cruise-control cable. Mine was replaced under warranty (~$20.00 part) about 3-yrs. ago when it broke or something. Not sure how long it took to replace, but I believe it was less than 1/2 hr. according to the service ticket. Could be a fuse or relay in the engine compartment too. There's
a kick-panel with fuses on the driver's-side footwell I believe and in the engine compartment both.

vjoe_udo · June 2005

my brother's zx2 escort has this same problem.
It turned out the battery connector has some problem so it wasn't conducting
very well. He replaced the part and it has started fine after that.
The big cable that is hooked up to the battery terminal and the connector is
what I'm talking about.

cmuniz · June 2005

I am no mechanic, but have been told by a trusted mechanic friend that most problems on today's transmissions are electrical, not mechanical. Most are controlled by computers with all kinds of sensors, etc.....a transmission shop would be the last place I would take it. The dealer would be a better bet until you got an estimate you didn't like, then go someplace else for a second opinion. Good luck. Hope it all works out well.

chris456 · June 2005

I have a 2001 Ford Escape with 55,000 miles on it that needs new brake pads. Like many others, I am not that impressed with the amount of dust created by the OEM pads.

I would like to buy something like Raybestos quiet stop ceramic pads which are supposed to provide good stopping power with low dust:
http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm

I inspected my brakes about 6 months ago and the rotors looked fine to me, so I would rather keep my existing rotors if possble. Will switching to ceramic pads kill the Ford OEM rotors?

escapenut · June 2005

I switched to ceramic-enhanced pads and new rotors when I did my 2nd brake job and haven't looked back. I did change out the rotors with the same make as the pad. I was told by the Ford service-writer when my 1st brake job was done at 29K
miles (for ~$500.00) that the OEM rotors were essentially 'disposable' or non-turnable at that point. A lot of manufacturers are going to these type of parts. I wonder why Ford makes the 'dusting' pads and disposable rotors, when GM makes pads that don't dust (at least for their trucks) and turnable rotors. Ford and other manufacturers seem to be doing this to either save money up-front on engineering costs or parts costs, not sure.

If it were me, I'd not use the Ford OEM rotors or try to turn them, because it may cause a wierd wear pattern with the new pads. I'd go ahead and spring for the
new rotors eventhough the overall cost will be bit more. Raybestos is an excellent brand for both pads and rotors and are used by a lot of shops nationwide
as aftermarket match to OEM.

reid1083 · June 2005

I am new to this site so I am not sure I am doing this right but this was the closest thing I could find to what I was looking for. I am a 2001 Ford Escape and I am having a lot of trouble with it. It seems like every time I am driving it hesitates. I just paid $400 to get a new cam and crank sensor and it is still happening. I also just had a new computer put in it. I am trying to see if anyone else has had this problem.

weiss1 · June 2005

Where is the cabin air filter on the 2003 Tribute? Not a mention of it in the owners manual. Thanks

weiss1 · June 2005

I took the tribute to Mazda and they found a pinched ( almost closed ) PCV line and replaced it under warranty.

02escape · June 2005

did you notice the problem only happens with a certain key? the microchip inside the key may need to be reprogrammed, you can do this yourself, it takes you step by step in the manual

mphxaz · June 2005

It's under the hood on the passenger side. Go back to message # 2803 in this forum for detailed instructions to replace the cabin air filter on a Tribute / Escape (just ignore the title of message #2803, the text of the message has the instructions). If you don't want to pay the extra for a filter at the dealer, FRAM air filter # CA 4303 fits and works just fine and can be had for 4 to 6 bucks ...

sandyprom · June 2005

:sick: :sick: I have Escape V6 2003 mileague at 90,000 kms. It was manufactured in Philippines. My car starts to have a lot of problems with engine and I mostly go for the car services weekly. The sales guy told me that it is the manufacturing process go wrong so we need to change some certain parts of engine and other things else. Does anyone have any information on this, your help is highly appreciated.

clarsen · July 2005

I also have a 2001 Tribute and it died yesterday on the freeway at 75 mph just as you described in your message. The dealer doesn't have a clue.

What have you learned?

weiss1 · July 2005

Thanks for your help. Followed the directions and it went perfectly. My Tribute had no filter in it!! Is this common or was it missed at the factory? The Fram CA4303 worked fine. Thanks Again.

mphxaz · July 2005

It's normal. From what I've read, neither the Escape or the Tribute (or Mariner) come with the cabin air filter installed. It's appears to be an after sale item for the dealers. Glad it worked out for you! Have a Great Independence Day Holiday!

kam327 · July 2005

Anyone have any issues with what they consider to be excessive pedal vibrations on their new Tribute? I have some that I didn't notice on the test drive but after driving it all weekend I've noticed. The brakes seem to shake a little on heavy breaking, almost like there's a warped rotor. I'm hoping it's just a matter of breaking them in some more (only about 400 miles on the Tribute). If not, it should be easily repeatable for the dealer mechanics and covered under warranty so I'm not too worried about that but interested if anyone else had that problem.

But I also notice quite of bit of engine vibration coming through the accelerator pedal, mostly under heavy engine load such as right before the upshift while passing on the highway, though I'm not sure if it's typical for this type of vehicle as I have been driving a silky smooth Contour V6 for the last 5 years. I am a little worried that there is a loose or broken engine mount or other drivetrain component that is causing the vibration and that it will be very hard to trace by the dealer.

omcman · July 2005

I have a 2005 Escape and the window sticker indicates 4 wheel disc brakes. I received a letter from Ford indicating there was a printing error on the sticker. One of the selling points for me was the braking system. Has anyone out there received this letter and does anyone have any suggestions? Ford told me I did not pay for 4 wheel disc's so tough luck!!

kam327 · July 2005

With the 2005 Tributes all V6's have 4-wheel discs and all 4 cylinders have rear drums. I assume it's the same for the Escapes.

escapenut · July 2005

As I understand it Ford is not putting discs on the rear axle d/t costs for 2005. However, Mazda Tributes V6's are all equipped with 4-wheel discs, not sure about the 4-cylinders. Auto makers refer to this as decontenting or taking out minor luxury features for cost-savings. On my '01 V6 Escape XLT I've got discs at the front and drums on the rear. I've still got ~30-40% wear on my brake shoes at 73K miles. Not sure if you could get that from the rear-discs. Plus rear-discs may dust-up like the Ford OEM front discs do. Not good in my book. I replaced my pads with ceramic-enhanced ones and have not had the 'dusting' issue at all since.
The quality of the braking system has not been affected except positively I believe.

A friend has a 2005 Mazda Tribute with the front-rear disc set-up. The quality of the braking is very good and the new style calipers and pads don't dust-up on his
Mazda either.

ramzey28 · July 2005

Tribute I has disc on front and drum on the back. Tribute S has disc on all four's. All escape's have disc on the front and drums on the back. My 2005 tribute I does still have excess brake dust on the front (compared to other vehicles I have owned), I don't think it is as bad as the escape but that could be due to the alloy rim design (spacing).

kam327 · July 2005

I've noticed several 2005 Escapes in the last couple of days with discs on the front AND rear wheels. Is it possible they are putting 4-wheel discs on some Escapes but not others, like the Tributes? Or is the issue that the sticker indicated that ABS would be on all four wheels but turns out it's not?

chuck1ch · July 2005

I believe 4WD have 4 wheel disc and 2WD have front disc only.

ramzey28 · July 2005

Ford's website does not mention having 4 disc brakes on 2005. I have a Tribute 4wd but have drums on the back due to being the "I" model. But if someone is seeing differently, not sure what to make of it.

explorerx4 · July 2005

just take a look through the rear wheels. if it looks pretty much the same as fronts, then there are disks in the back.

snowman · July 2005

To have 4 wheel disc braking system, you must have V6 engine. Like, XLT has 4 wheel disc system as Mazda S.

Escape XLS and Mazda I, have front disc rear Drum regardless of having AWD system.

rhouser2 · July 2005

the only way to get 4 wheel disc brakes on as escape is to buy a v6 AWD model. all other escapes are disc/drum. this also applies to the mariner. all 2005 tributes with the v6 are 4 wheel disc, all other tributes are disc drum.

mergz · July 2005

I have a 2002 Escape which I just had serviced for a a number of repairs. When I got in, started the car and put my foot on the brake it made a loud clicking noise. It has never done this before, so I got the service agent to take a look at it. He said it was the solenoid for the shift lock and all Escapes make the same noise much as you noted in your message # 2394. As god as my witness, my Escape did not make that noise prior to taking it to the dealer, and it is annoying as hell !!!! Is there any way to make the noise stop and if so how do I go about doing it.

chunky709 · July 2005

constant squeak
same here
had to have hatch lock re adj. works fine now

mkl2209 · July 2005

Has anyone had any experience using EBC aftermarket brake equipment (rotors and pads) on a Tribute? I have a 2002 ES V-6 4WD. Thanks! (I'm tired of the brake dust and "no-turn-em" rotors!)

mkl2209 · July 2005

My 2002 Tribute ES V-6 4WD sometimes momentarily "stumbles" at 55-60 mph or so. This is an occasional thing that only lasts a second- no stalling, etc. The dealer has found nothing. Any thoughts?

baggs32 · July 2005

Not that I know of. I'm pretty sure it's not legal to disable that feature because some kid could easily put the vehicle in gear and cause some real damage without it.

Is it really that annoying though? I hardly notice it and I think you should only hear it when in "Park". Are you hearing it all the time? With the stereo volume set low I don't even think I can hear it at all come to think of it.

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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