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Good Luck!
Replace the plug (pig-tail) with a new kit...about $40 plus your labor...use crimp connectors.
Jack
Jack
Larrym13
I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana, that is currently saying its overheating, after many weeks of replacing things and searching we finally figured out that my fans are not always turning on. Some days they wont even turn on at all, we are almost 100% sure that this is the soul problem now, we have replaced the relays and it still has not helped the problem, I was wondering if anyone knew how to run a switch to bypass the relays into the inside so I would be able to turn on the fans manually?
The vehicle DOES NOT overheat while driving at a constant speed, just in stop-and-go traffic. When the fans turn on, the vehicle IMMEDIATELY cools off, so when air is going into the engine it cools itself off. When I first turn the engine on, it takes about 20 minutes of idling for it to get to the red-line overheat area. If the fan comes on, it will cool off tremendously, leading me to believe that the problem is simply no air getting to the engine.
Any ideas how to safely wire a switch or some contraption to make the fans turn on manually? Also, that would be a good way to test the fans and see whether or not they are even good themselves anymore.
EDIT: Also, SOMETIMES the fans will turn on when I turn the A/C on, but that is also sporadic. I tried the "disconnect the coolant temp sensor" trick I read to get the fans to turn on, that didn't work.
Read more at http://www.pontiacforum.com/pontiac/showthread.php?t=24586&kcplink=1
Sometimes I'll turn the key to start the car and I won't get anything. No starter, no clicks, no nothing. The only that happens is everything electrical turns on. I'll have to let it sit for awhile (maybe 5 - 10 minutes) and then it will usually start right up like nothing was wrong.
I think I can even hear my fuel pump or maybe some switch associated with the 120v adapter clicking away along with the interior lights being on.
Any ideas? Thanks!
Hope this helps.
Try spraying the wiper shafts with WD-40, then turn the wipers on an intermittent setting. When the wipers start to cycle, use your hand to gently "help" the wipers move back and forth; this will work the WD-40 down the shafts and get them lubricated. You will probably have to repeat this procedure (spray the shafts, "help" the wipers move) several times before they resume working the way they should.
Hope this helps!
Good luck
Did you fix the display on your radio ? Mine has a couple lights out too. I didn't know what that involves but could probably do it. I repaired car radios thru the 70's & 80's for a living.
I replaced the lights with Radio Shack =The Source (Canada) with these lights
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102815&cp=2032058.2032232- .2032295&parentPage=family
It was not easy to do and took me a couple of hours. I used a 40 watt pencil type soldering iron and a medical Magnification light with adjustable arm.
Please,please change all 3 at the same time as I changed 2 and the 3rd. burn't hours after.
Let me know how it goes!
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=446329
The primary one is that the indicator lights are completely wacked. When I signal, the lights flash quickly as though one was burn out, but they are not. When I step on the brakes, the flashing slows, but the brake lights flash too.
Any ideas ? Is there a central control module that handles indicator & brake lights that can be replaced ?
I found a solution: went to my local pull-a-part and found a newer model (about 04 or newer) pulled those lamps off and replaced the old ones. It has completely solved that problem.
However, the window motors suck and need replaced - has to do with the "de-engineered" system that lifts the window. I'm fairly certain that a lot of cleaning and a little grease in the grooves might resolve this matter.
The starter problem that I am currently having is kind of weird. It worked perfectly for the entire time I owned it. Recently, it would give my wife issues: not engage the flywheel. She called it "just spinning and grinding". I took the starter to Auto Zone and it tested fine. Bought another one and it does something similar. I checked all the teeth on the flywheel and they are all there and not worn. It seems to me that the starter simply does not completely engage the flywheel. Was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and if they found a solution.
I see that you had your window repaired but that the repair didn't last - was this done at a GM dealership or at another shop? When was the repair performed? We'd be happy to check into this further if the work was performed with a GM dealership - let us know via email at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name, Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and mileage, and the name of your dealership).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
the battery is good and fully charged. I rechecked the connections to the starter. Checked all the fuses, Both under hood and dash mounted and they all appeared ok I am at a loss. Has any one else experienced this or does anyone have any ideas on what could have caused this total power loss?
Thanks,
bix
http://www.aztekfanclub.com/SMF/index.php?action=printpage;topic=2145.0
starter fusible link, relay main fuse blown, is there power to the starter?
to the positive side of the starter along with the cable from the battery? Also does the fuseable link do more than protect the starter circuit? I will look very thourouly for a blown main fuse. I have been thinking that there's just one thing that has caused all the power to the vehicle to go out. I'll write again with my findings. Thanks for your suggestions.
bix
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
bix
HOWEVER....the engineers do not just fail on the lights, fuel pump, and the windows. They really messed with the stupid 3400 engine. If you start having overheating problems, I know the proper solution: junk it. It costs way too much to replace the engine, and repairs are never forever. It seems the water grooves and the oil grooves run side by side. After several years, the thin sliver of steel that separates them wears out, allowing oil to infiltrate the cooling system, and vice-versa. The only sure way to repair this is to replace the engine. That is about $1500 to $2000, depending on who you get to rob you.
All I can say is that the Montana was a good little van, took me all over the country, until the overheating thing started. Then, it was a short 4 months until I finally sold her to the local pull-a-part. Anyway, happy mechanic-ing.
Thanks,
Bix