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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

1596062646580

Comments

  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Yes, we do too. Dealer said the same thing to us twice. Tried 89 octane and it didn't do a thing. Ironically cheapo gas from a local chain seems to nearly get rid of the pinging. I worry what else it's doing though. :surprise:

    Some other brands like Shell and BP work OK most of the time too. Sunoco, Citgo, and Exxon all make it come back every time.
  • tnntnn Member Posts: 4
    As of 9-29, still having pinging problems.
    Should the MAF sensor, coolant temp sensor and PCM be checked when the dealer says they're not picking up an computer codes?
    The dealer say's the computer already checks those 3 items so they're ok according to him.
    Does that sound right?

    I'm frustrated that a new car is pinging.

    Thanks
  • wcw1wcw1 Member Posts: 44
    Original message

    I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with 40,000 miles. The power steering pump starting making crunching noises. The noises get worse if the car idles and gets hot. Mazda wants to charge me $700.00 to replace the pump. I had the fluid flushed and that helped a little. I have been unable to find a power steering pump anywhere so I can do the repair myself or have a garage do it. The idea of paying Mazda $700.00 upsets me. Any ideas appreciated.

    New message

    Well I put off the repair for quite a while. Through the winter there was no noise and I finally got a pump online from Showcase Mazda and recently had it installed by a well known mechanic in my area. It was a very difficult install. It appears nothing is easy on a Tribute. The problem is that the crunching noises are still there. I took the car back to the local Mazda dealer, mainly a Lincoln Mercury dealer, and they again told me I need a new power steering pump. I then advised them the power steering pump was brand new and at that point they had no idea what was causing the problem and offered no suggestions.

    So I am throwing the question out to see if anyone here has had a similar problem or any ideas as to what I can do. It almost sounds like something needs lubricating but I don't know what. The problem has not gotten any worse but is very annoying. Is there anything in the steering column that could be a problem.

    Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  • wcw1wcw1 Member Posts: 44
    Just had a dead battery develop over night on my 01 Tribute. The problem is that when the battery is dead you cannot shift the transmission out of park. So I could not move the car to be able get jumper cables on the battery. After taking the battery out of my other car and getting the Tribute started I was on my way to get a new battery and the Tribute just stalled in the middle of a busy intersection. I automatically put the car in Park to try and restart, thinking the battery had probably charged up enough to start. Big mistake, as my Tribute would not start and I could not get the transmission out of park to push the car out of the intersection. This seems to me to be a serious safety issue and a real pain in the rear. There is apparently no way to over ride the transmission being locked in park with a dead battery. Fortunately, I had brought my jumper cables and a passing motorist stopped and gave me a jump. Be warned about this stupid problem with the Tribute. I don't know how many model years have this problem but I think it is a dangerous situation.
  • gstewartgstewart Member Posts: 2
    Kids were climbing around in the front seat and we suspect they pushed some buttons and somehow shorted something out. There is battery left, and we even tried jumping, but no cranking can be heard. The car is stuck in park and we can't get it into neutral. The wipers are slow, and turning on a fan or other item causes a slow turning electrical motor sound.
  • gstewartgstewart Member Posts: 2
    Update - We I tried jumping it and now it clicks when trying to start, and in that state you can move it to neutral.
  • mitcheahmitcheah Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 05 Tribute for about a two months now. I love it except for one thing - it whirs when accelerating. It isn't real loud (you can turn the radio up to drown it out) but it is annoying. Anyone else experience this? It's going to the dealer next week for maintenance and I'll mention it to them, but I was hoping someone knew what I was talking about!!
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    If this the original OEM battery, you're probably due for a brand-new battery. I replaced my battery on my '01 Escape almost exactly three (3) years after I bought the Escape. In Houston, the summer's tend to kill batteries regardless of brand, but three (3) years is about the max. life on one here. I got mine from a Ford dealership (Motorcraft) and they cut me a deal for $65.00 as opposed to their
    nearly $100.00 asking price. I figured it'd be better to stick with the Motorcraft as opposed to buying elsewhere for the price. However, good-quality aftermarket batteries are just as good as OEM. Wal-Mart had their brand for about $60.00, but the baettery-housing looked the same as Motorcraft's.
  • jchandrajchandra Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2005 Tribute V6 LX. When accelerating it sounds like a plane taking off. At first it was irritating, now I kind of like the sound.
    Also, the passenger side door rattles like crazy. I cannot seem to pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from. Nothing seems to be loose that I can see or feel.
    Other than that it has been Ok. My 2001 Tribute had some more problems, but I got rid of it after 4 years.
    Some how the quality feel is not there. It keeps reminding you that it is basically a Ford product disguised as a Mazda.
    Next time it will be another make.
  • gatorjmdgatorjmd Member Posts: 7
    Only play factory recorded CDs in your CD-6. Read the manual, that unit does not "like" home recorded CDs, ESPECIALLY those with labels.
  • 01owner01owner Member Posts: 3
    My 2001 had almost this same kind of noise but a friendly and very honest mechanic said that I was only low on power steering fluid. He said that Ford products were bad to do this and since Mazda is now basically a Ford, it was the same thing. Sure enough I went to my local Wal-Mart and spent $2 on a bottle of fluid, topped it off and voila, no more crunching.
  • 01owner01owner Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Tribute that idles out of control on a regular basis. While the car is in drive and I am stopped at a light, the RPM's will race up to 1500 ro 2000 and the car is almost jumping ready to pull off. When I shift into park, I had better be ready to turn the key off or I'm afraid the engine will be blown. The tachometer reaches between 3000 and 4000 before I get my hand down to the key to shut off the engine. After two or three repairs now the Mazda dealership tells me I need a throttle body. Has anyone else ever encountered this problem? The technician tells me he's never seen it before.
  • gatorjmdgatorjmd Member Posts: 7
    I hope you purchased transmission fliud. That is the correct fluid for the power steering unit in these vehicles per the manual. Do NOT use power steering fluid.
  • yustasyustas Member Posts: 31
    All cars with automatic transmissions provide a way to move them with dead battery, but they are different from car to car. Some have a small switch near shifter, which is covered by a plastic plug. In my Ford Taurus, and I assume in many Ford/Mazda products, one can move a shifter out of the neutral by turning the ignition key into the "off" position, which is between "lock" and "on". That will unlock steering and shifter.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    Well, the creak, creak, creaks in my '05 Tribute are back. Obviously temp related since the cooler weather has re-awakened them. I have saturated all suspension bits and pieces, so it is not that, even though there is very loud at times 'graunching' when coming to a halt, or when just rocking the vehicle. It is not the headliner, though that creaks when pushed. Not the top of the door panel which squeaked when pushed on until I sprayed silicone behind it. No, it is as though the unibody flexes just enough to cause rubbing, and sundry creaks all around. Maybe it is the same thing that plagues BMW X3s with their window creaks. I guess next I'll flood the window channels with something to see if that helps. The ultimate fix of course is to sell once the snow flies, and swear off any further Ford purchases. I could not believe how loose and noisy an older Ford Focus wagon was that I rode in recently. The Mazda 5 is once again under consideration, since I am sure it is vastly better built. And since I don't drive automatics, the 'bursting into flame' condition there should not impact me.
    Kind of sad. The Tribute has its attributes, but a solid structure is not one of them.
  • bob_mcbobbob_mcbob Member Posts: 9
    As I posted earlier in the thread, my '05 Tribute makes creaking noises, too. We have the dog cage option (muddy German Shepherd + leather = bad!) installed in the back, and the points where it meets the ceiling creak whenever I drive over a bump. The suspension has been making a squeaking noise like it's not oiled properly for some time, but it's recently been sounding more like a groaning. I occasionally hear it when I come to a stop, but it's mostly when I'm getting in and our of the car and shifting the weight distribution. I intend to have our dealer look at it when it'st taken in for the first oil change.

    I can deal with occasionally squeaks and creaks, but by far the most annoying issue is the loose door and centre panelling at the front of the car. The panelling on the front doors has a lot of give, and creaks (plastic crunching... I'm sure you know what I mean) when you press on it. The piece between the seats also has the same problem. It will actually move from side to side up to half a centimetre or more! I am quite tall, so my legs are always touching either the door or centrepiece, so I get a constant creaking from them. We have the GT model which has slightly different panelling at the front, so I'm not sure how the doors and centre differ from the regular base model.

    Interestingly, the panelling on the rear doors is rock solid, and I never hear anything from them. The impression I get from the front door/centre panneling is that it's not really attached properly. It isn't glued on where it meets the window assembly, so I can actually pull it back slightly. Basically, it doesn't feel very solid. I would REALLY like to know whether loose panelling is normal for this model. I did test drive the same model at the dealer, but it was a different car. I'm pretty sure I would have noticed the loose panelling at the time, but I really can't recall. If the panelling really is looser than it should be, I will definitely be taking it up with the dealer!
  • bri66bri66 Member Posts: 220
    AAA assured me last week that it was not the battery. $180 tow to my mechanic found out it was the battery. No longer member of AAA. 15 years a member and they claim OH well. One way money for AAA. Dash went crazy when trying to start with dead battery. Have Mach stereo in mine and CD's started ejecting out. Steering wheel locked. Thought I had a serious electrical problem, but only battery. No warning neither, it died quick. 100,000 miles strong on 2001 XLT. :sick:
  • 21marcel21marcel Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same problems that you are having with my 01 Tribute, 98k miles (I mean exactly). I went to AutoZone to get a diagnosis and found that there was a misfire on cylinder 2. I changed the Ignition Coil, Fuel injector, and the sparkplug with no success. I went to the dealer to take care of a Powertrain Control Module (PCM) recall ( to recalculate the acceleration and all that). My Tribute is running smoother, BUT the same problems are still there for me. It still hasn't gone away. So it wasn't the PCM.
    One of the main things that I noticed, when I changed out my spark plugs was that the spark plug on the misfire cylinder (Cylinder 2) smelled burnt compared to the other five ( I mean a distinctive burnt smell). I believe that my sparkplug malfunctioned (or burned), and this lead to a malfunctioning of the main electrical items that are connected to the spark plug (Ignition Coil, Wiring Harness, PCM, fuel injector). I ended up replacing the Ignition Coil, Fuel injector, and the sparkplug with no success. PCM reprogram(recall) helped smooth the problem, but didn't fix it. I was thinking about changing the wirning harness, until I saw mikebc780's reply.
    mikebc780 says " turned out to be a burnt valve, No. 4 cyl. with low compression. The fix was a new valve head, took 2 weeks to get all parts in. Was apprx. $1800 "
    If you fixed your problem, can you get back to me on what you were able to do to fix it? Thank you.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    Precisely the same suspension noises are occuring in my Tribute. As I stated, I have lubed profusely all moving components with both silicone spray, and with other spray lubricants. There has been no real improvement. As for the creaking, I am convinced that the primary cause is body flex. Sure, it's a box of sorts, with some large apertures, but my 1984 Vanagon camper, with an enormous pop top, has a body far more rigid.
  • treyscraptreyscrap Member Posts: 3
    Hey all,

    I just had a terrifying experience with my 1-day old Escape and I'm hoping you guys have some ideas. I was in a mall parking lot and the car started fine. I put it in reverse to back up and lightly hit the gas..fine so far. I went to brake and the car would not stop AT ALL. I was on a slight decline so it was going faster than usual. There were 3 people behind me now and the car was still moving. I came *very* close to squeezing those people between my bumper and the front end of the car behind me. I put the car in drive and it STILL kept reversing without the brakes working. I then flipped it into park and that's when it finally stopped with a big forward jerk. The only way to stop the car from rolling backwards was putting it in park. Thank God I didn't hit the people behind me. We're all so lucky for that.

    Now I am wedged perpendicular in the parking lot aisle blocking both sides of traffic on a busy Saturday afternoon. I shut off the car and started it again, this time going straight to drive. It again rolled backwards and the brakes didn't work. At this point two people helped me. I put it in neutral and they pushed it back into the parking space where I promptly shut it off and applied the parking brake. Also, the wheel was completely locked during all of this.

    After all that, the dealership I went through was closed today (on Saturday!) so I called the Ford road service number. It was towed to the dealership and I'll be dealing with it and the sales agent tomorrow. The sales guy was nice (I called him on his cell) and said he'd do anything to make this right.

    I bought this car YESTERDAY!!! I am so frustrated, mad, and still very scared because I almost seriously hurt three people. If this happened on the highway. my 3 year old and I would probably be dead.

    Should I take a chance and get a different Escape from the same dealer? I don't care if Henry Ford himself fixed this one, I'm not driving it! What do you guys think they'll say? What recourse do I have? Does the lemon law give you 3 days to return a car with "no questions asked"?

    Thanks for reading all this and I look forward to any advice for tomorrow's blow-out!!!

    Donna
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I could see the power brake failing, which would make the brake pedal very HARD and would require a lot of force on the brake pedal. So that's a possibillity. However, the part about putting it in drive and the car still going backwards---that makes no sense to me (mechanically speaking).

    IN theory, the engine can't overpower the brakes under any circumstances from a standing start.
    ]
    Anyway, first thing you need to determine is if the power brake booster has failed. If someone hops in the car Monday and everything's fine, you're going to have a tough time convincing anyone of anything.

    Hopefully the defect will be obvious.

    Yeah I'd try to get another Escape from them if they'd go for it. Did you have any witnesses IN the car?

    I don't think any lemon law lets you give a car back in 3 days, no.

    Be prepared to be very patient if no defect is found. Your story is rather amazing and not everyone may believe you if there is no evidence of a fault.
  • treyscraptreyscrap Member Posts: 3
    Hi there,

    Thanks for your quick reply. Yes, I had my mom in the car with me as a witness. She kept telling me that the car was rolling back even though I couldn't do anything about it.

    The thing that gets me is, when the tow truck driver put it in reverse to check it out, it drove fine. He said that when he put it in drive, it hesitated and then clunked forward into gear. The brakes were no problem then.

    I can't figure it out! I have driven various vehicle types over the years so I'm no stranger to the feel of an SUV. There was definitely something wrong with the car.

    If it is the power brake failing, would that also account for the locked wheel? What are the "symptoms" of a power break failure? Could it somehow correct itself by the time the tow driver got to it (approx. 1 hour later)?

    I'm disappointed because I really liked the Escape. Somehow now I don't feel so safe about it.

    Thanks again for your advice,
    Donna
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The only thing I can think of that includes all these symptoms is that the engine stalled...this would cause the power brake to lose power after a few pumps, the steering wheel to feel "locked" because you lost power steering and the car to continue to roll back even if you put it in drive.

    So I would say your engine stalled and you didn't realize it.

    Otherwise I have to say with all respect that all those symptoms would be, in my opinion, impossible.
  • treyscraptreyscrap Member Posts: 3
    Hmmm...I've never had a car stall on me so that could very well be the case. Have you heard of stalling problems with the '06 Escapes?

    Thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it could happen to any car really. Some little glitch in the fuel or maybe the engine was a little cold. It's possible say that if you start up a cold engine, and say the "fast idle" isn't set as high as it should be, and then you put it in reverse while turning the wheel, this could slow down the idle speed further and stall the engine.

    But yeah, I think that's what happened to you. It's the only thing that incorporates all your symptoms.

    Since your power steering pump is driven by the engine, when the engine stops, your power steering stops---and with today's modern wide tires, the steering becomes very hard to operate, especially if you are prepared for this.

    Also the power brake is fed by engine vacuum, and when the engine dies you only have a few pumps of the pedal before the vacuum reservoir is empty, and then you go to a very hard brake pedal that you really have to jump on with both feet.

    Also when the engine dies, the transmission's front fluid pump is no longer working, and so you can't go into any gear----the transmission is hydraulically operated so won't "apply" without pump pressure.

    So your problem might be nothing more than cold start stalling,which could certainly be attended to and fixed I would think.

    Maybe this whole thing is no big deal for the car. You should find a safe, empty parking lot and at very low speeds, switch off your engine (NOT ALL THE WAY OFF, just turn the key a little, because you don't want your steering to lock up), just so you can experience what this feels like and you can learn to control the car. Rule One: Keep looking in front of you. Your arms and feet don't need your eyes to find the steering wheel and the brake.

    In fact, you will find you CAN still confidently steer and stop a car when the engine stalls, but you need to really put yourself into it, like you were on an exercise machine. If you have to use both feet on the brake, do it. And of course use the e-brake if you can.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    You may want to keep track of the alternator, if it hasn't been changed out already.
    Same problems as you describe with the battery, but was alternator instead. Cost
    almost $500.00 including tow to auto-shop. The alternator itself is ~$270.00, and the labor is 2 - 3 hrs. because they have to drop the right CV shaft to pull the alternator. It was a real pain too. Plus the drive shaft was put back in wrong and it sprayed axle-grease all over the place. The shop paid for their mistake, other than a mystery suspension noise that is still there, but I've gotten used to it, so it
    doesn't bother me too much.
  • bob_mcbobbob_mcbob Member Posts: 9
    I agree with the stalling theory. It's something that happens so rarely that nobody expects it. I had a car (Ford Escort station wagon) stall in a parking lot once, and exactly the same thing happened. As I was backing out of a space with the power steering at full lock, the steering wheel and brake pedal suddenly stopped working, and the car drifted backwards. I am quite strong, and I could barely turn the wheel at all. I applied the parking brake, parked the car, and tried to figure out what was going on. It suddenly dawned on me that the car wasn't actually running - it took me about 15 seconds to realize this! It was the only time I've ever had a car stall on me.
  • buddman41buddman41 Member Posts: 1
    This happened twice to my 2002 Ford Escape. I was in drive not moving with my foot on the brake. All of a sudden the engine started to race making a loud noise. If I didn't have my foot on the brake I would have gone flying. The only way to stop it was to put the car in neutral and shut the car off. When I restarted the car it was fine. The first time it happened was about two months prior.
  • bri66bri66 Member Posts: 220
    Escapenut if you don't mind me asking, what do you own, how many miles, and have you replaced your battery yet? Wondering if I may have a failing alternator on it's way out. I think 4 years out of a battery is OK, but I just never had one go so quick. Thanks
  • nick54nick54 Member Posts: 1
    05 Escape - The keys continue to freeze in the ignition. Sometimes by pushing the gear shift into park several times and or moving it in and out of park it releases the keys. Brought it to the dealer twice and they have not been able to fix it. Any ideas??
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    I guess when you design a vehicle cheaply from the standpoint of component cost and assembly, the end result is something less than world class. That certainly applies to the interior of this trio of vehicles.
    The interior creaking and snapping will force me to get rid of the Tribute. I tried to go UAW, and it is not going to work.....unless someone can solve this riddle...
    I am now finding that even in colder temps, as long as the vehicle is in sunny conditions, heating the body, the interior is silent. But as soon as the weather is overcast, as it was Saturday, and again today, the chorus of nerve rattling sounds comes back. Yesterday, which was nice and sunny, the interior was quiet. Could this mean that the lower body cladding is the culprit? It's hard for me to believe it could be, but who knows. I have had others in the vehicle who confirm it is all around, on both sides.
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    In own a 2001 Escape XLT V6 FWD, with 80K mikes on the odo. I just replaced tires (all-4) with 255-65-16's that I got on special price. They fit, look good and ride even better, don't know why I waited so long to change them out. My other tires had ~39K miles on them and were super loud on the road. The tread pattern was not aggressive either.

    In answer to your question, I replaced my battery almost exactly 36 mos. after I purchased the vehicle, so July 2004. The average life-span of a battery in the Texas Gulf Coast area is about 30-36 mos.. The heat kills batteries here, big-time.
    When my alternator went it was quick, no warning lights, no nothing.... my radio went dead first, and then about 30-seconds later my dashboard lit-up like a Christmas-tree, then the vehicle went dead. I was on the way to work and called my emergency-service for a tow. I had it towed to closest shop that was reputable, and they diagnosed it within 10-minutes after arrival that it was the alternator. This happened about 4-months ago now. The shop had never replaced the alternator on an Escape before, so it was first for them. They followed the necessary procedure by pulling the wheel, CV-axle (or half-shaft) and getting the alternator from below. It cannot be gotten from the top d/t the alternator proximity. The vehicle was ready later that day with a re-built alternator. Total bill $495.00:

    Tow- $65.00 (I got a refund from the vehicle service)
    Alternator- $265.00
    Labor+Misc. shop b.s.- $165.00

    Was it worth it? Had to have the alternator, but the cost(s) particularly for re-built, are a bit high in my opinion. You can order alternators online from various sources, but you run the risk of it not being right, etc... for some reason. My best advice is get it tested if you're in doubt. Bad alternators can be diagnosed reasonably quickly. But don't discount that there may be an additional problem too.
  • kency95kency95 Member Posts: 1
    ok ok ok, heres the deal, my 02 tribute has been thumping, squeeking, crackling,this all is from the front drivers side wheel and my hubby has checked alot of things but didnt seem to know what was wrong. Has anyone had the same problems? I am so unhappy with all of this and can't seem to get the help I need. :sick:
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    Some things come to mind based on my own experience(s) or others I've heard about:

    - Bad CV-joint (clicking or craking sound when wheel is turned w/power on).
    - Bad Control Arm which contains the ball-joints and bushings.
    - Bad struts or connection points (make sure all of the nuts/bolts are tight).
    - Bad front-stabilizer bushings.
    - Bad strut-links (these caused thumping and cracking noises until they were
    changed).
  • tribfra2006tribfra2006 Member Posts: 3
    We recently purchased a 2006 Mazda Tribute and really like it except for the wind sounds. The wind sounds are heard primarily after 55mph and at the upper right rear of the vehicle. It was taken back to the dealer and their thoughts on the problem involved the luggage rack. Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • stigstig Member Posts: 4
    I read a post either on this site or one of the other Escape/Tribute sites, that mentioned this problem. If I recall correctly, check the cross-over bars on the luggage rack and make sure they are not installed backwards (front facing back). It is supposedly pretty hard to tell, so you need to take a close look.
    Hope this helps. :)
  • dearbornborndearbornborn Member Posts: 6
    They are pretty easy to tell which way they are supposed to face if you can remember what way you are facing. If you want realize how much noise they make...remove them entirely and take a drive on the freeway.
  • jchandrajchandra Member Posts: 12
    I have a 2005 Tribute LX V6 which I bought last Oct. Right from day one there was excessive road noise on the highway...over 100 KMH (55 MPH). I spent days analysing the source.

    The Continental Tires that came with the truck were in my opinion garbage. I spent $700CDN to buy 4 Yokohama Geolandar's. These are Japanese made....so you know that they are quality product. Right away the noise decreased by about 60%.

    The rest of the wind noise was being created by the Roof rack. I took off the 2 middle panels and left the 2 side ones on. Since I do not carry anything on the roof, they were just there for show. When I went back on the highway, there was hardly any noise left. Now even at 130 - 140 KMH, there is not much wind noise.

    Granted, it's not as quiet as my 2004 BMW 325i, but then again I paid 40% more for the car then this SUV.

    Try it, see if these things work for you. My wife on the other hand could not have cared less. She is just happy to drive anything. I on the other hand am a perfectionist....every little sound/creak makes me upset.

    Good luck with your problem
  • dex100dex100 Member Posts: 3
    I had a similar problem with my 2002 Tribute (automatic V6, 56K miles). Engine would not start if hot -- sometimes had to wait a full half-hour before engine cooled enough -- then it starts right up. Also had intermittent low speed stalling (even after the recall re-programming) and periodic hesitation when driving at freeway speeds. Dealer had vehicle for four days (with much discussion with Mazda) and finally settled on replacing the Crank Position Sensor. Have had it back for a week and no problems.
  • bmbsdbmbsd Member Posts: 2
    We have the same question. Did you ever receive a response?
  • tribfra2006tribfra2006 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the suggestion....it worked! That was the solution to our problem.
  • astropilastropil Member Posts: 7
    I noticed right after buying my 2004 Tribute that there was an aftershock after going over bumps. This caused the ride to be bouncy and harsh. This was a really annoying problem which I did not want to have with my new Mazda. What I finally realized was that the rather heavy exhaust system was hung at just a few points by single rubber hangers. When I bounced the tail pipe, I noticed that due to these single rubber hangers the whole exhaust system would continue to bounce and shake several times. This is what was causing the aftershock and bad ride. I solved the problem by wrapping the back two rubber hangers (around the metal brackets) with #12 electric cable. This keeps the exhaust from bouncing and led to a huge improvement in the ride. This problem is the same on Escapes, and any car with a poorly supported exhaust system. If you think your Tribute/Escape has a poor ride, give this a try.
  • chuck1chchuck1ch Member Posts: 15
    I replaced the fog light on a 2001 Tribute about 2 years ago. You do not have to remove the bumper. Taking the front tire off helps access. Traded it in recently so I cannot look at one to tell you how. Was not difficult. Sorry I could not be more help.
  • rcinmdrcinmd Member Posts: 139
    Problem: Incessent and growing interior creaks
    Solution: Sell it

    I've reached the end of my rope in putting up with and trying to get rid of the creaking gremlins inside my Tribute. I don't blame Mazda; I blame Ford for design and execution. Next go round, I am buying 'real' Japanese. No wonder when my Honda Accord was test driven by a private buyer, they came back and said it was like being in a limousine. To me, it what was expected of a car. And yes, it was Japanese-built, previous generation, unlike the current Accord which has its share of interior issues.
    Anyway, no matter how pretty the Tribute is or how competent it might be on the road, it reminds me daily how bad some vehicles can be. I want to be reminded how good vehicles can be.
    So, it's going into the paper. And if I really get anxious, it might be traded. Mazda is still on my list, Mazda 5 that is. Not to worry, I drive manuals, so I don't think spontaneous combustion will be a worry for me...
  • nitelitenitelite Member Posts: 4
    For the last three years we have had this problem once a year. It has just happened again. They replaced the sensor and on my way home it died 6 times again. I nearly it a tree when it died while turning. I have just filed a complaint with nhtsa.dot.gov. This is the office of Defects Investigation. I picked up my car yesterday and returned it yesterday. Haven't heard from the dealership yet. I have read so many complaints in this form you should go to the website I wrote and make our complaint official. My husband bought a Mazda B2200 in 1990 had for 10 years till drunk driver hit him. Never had a problem with it. Since we bought the tribute, three days after buying alternator had to be replaced and it has been in for the above problem 4 times in last three years. What a nightmare.
  • tonyfordtonyford Member Posts: 15
    The problem pertains to a 2003 Escape XLS 6 cylinder:

    I will have my climate control selector set for the dash vents. During acceleration the air flow will change by itself and the air will be directed to the defroster. Then, when de-accelerating the air flow returns to the dash vents. This will also happen if I have to the selector set to the floor vent, air will be directed to the defroster.

    What I have found out so far is that the defroster is the default mode of the climate control. If anything goes wrong with the control all air is directed to the defroster for saftey reasons (ice, fog on windshield).

    The direction of air flow is controled by vacuum. If there is a vacuum leak anywhere in the climate control system the symptoms I have stated will happen.

    I have been told to look for a few things, neither of them could I find on the vehicle. One a vacuum check valve device which directs air to the defroster in case the unit screws up as described above. Two, to look for the vacuum source and reservoir? where are these? More importantly to look for the vacuum junction block on the left side of plenum and check that the vacuum hoses are securely plugged in???

    I think I found the plenum under a plastic cover on the passenger side under the windshield, the same spot where you would change the cabin filter if you use one. I found no vacuum junction block anywhere in that area.

    Sometimes the air flow will change at anytime, but I can always make it happen during hard acceleration.

    Can someone direct me to the area where this check valve is located and where the vacuum junction box is located (if there is such a thing). I am not 100% sure if either of these two things are the source of my problem.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks..
  • wcw1wcw1 Member Posts: 44
    Finally got the problem fixed. It had nothing to do with the steering. I wrote in another later post that my battery died. The battery finally completely died. Turns out it was a bad alternator. The bearings in the alternator would make noise when they got hot. Picked up a tested used alternator for $40 and a mechanic I know put it in for $200. Whoever did the design had their head where the light does not shine. The front end has be partially disassembled to get to the alternator. No more crunching noise now. Mazda had me change the power steering pump which I had done myself. I wonder what Mazda would have done if I had them put on the power steering pump and it did not fix the problem. Stick it to me would be my guess.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Just to follow up on this, I took our '05 Limited to the dealer two weeks ago for scheduled maintenance, the hatch recall, and the engine pinging (second time for the pinging).

    Long story short, they test drove and did hear the pinging this time. A PCM update was loaded and we haven't heard the pinging since. I'll try to remember to report any updates as they come but hopefully you won't hear from me about this again. ;)
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    I feel your pain about the alternator. I replaced mine over 6-months ago to the tune of ~$500.00, including the tow. The alternator placement is a totally inept design in my opinion. The replacement alternator I got was a re-man'd model. In my case as well as your's the front-passenger half-shaft has to be removed and several other things to access the alternator. Because of the hassle with this, whatever vehicle I purchase next will have easier alternator removal/install. I really like the Excape/Tribute, but am not sure what Ford/Mazda engineers were thinking when they placed the alternator that low. I think that sometimes they believe that people will be getting rid of their cars before it comes time change key parts, etc.. So far, 81K miles, with re-built alternator, new-battery, new IAC, a few other things. The vehicle has not been as problematic for me as others in the posts listed. I will replacing the plugs again in about another 10K miles which is a major deal (at least on the back-side of the engine, underneath the intake-manifold). I'd buy another Escape, but am not sure knowing what I know now, if I would.
    Also, replaced the muffler itself with a Magnaflow high-performance one. I believe I picked-up an extra 10-15 HP, but have not dyno'd it yet. I left the resonator on the back-end. It has a nice, mellow, low-noise, rumble. Kinda cool. I replaced the stock-size 235-70-16's with 255-65-16's, and the tires fill the wheel-wells better with some room to spare too. I realize I changed my speedo somewhat by doing this, but not by much. I replaced the struts/shocks within a month of each other and can really notice a difference in handling and ride-quality. If you haven't done this and your mileage is getting up there, then this is a worthwhile investment if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a few more miles like me.
  • bmbsdbmbsd Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the response. We will give that a try.
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