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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

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  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Take a look here: YJ Carbs.
  • worthey5worthey5 Member Posts: 1
    One of our door straps broke and we have already ordered new straps for the doors. However, cannot find any information on the hing the strap is attached to. I am not talking about the hinge ON the door, but the "hinge" inside the door. In fact, it may be made of plastic? I have looked EVERYWHERE!!!! Any help? Thanks!
  • wlfdwlfd Member Posts: 1
    Does any one know how to fix the front end death shake in a 2003 Wrangler sport?
    My jeep starts, what I call the death shake, when I reach speeds between 58mph & 60mph. I have changed the shocks, stearing stablizer shock, and tires. I still have the death shake. Please help.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Most likely caused by wear in the track bar joints or those in the drag link.
    The condition is more common in lifted Jeeps though not confined to them.
  • drdetail66drdetail66 Member Posts: 2
    mine does the same thing now.. just started making that type of noise... did you ever find why yours was doing this as well.. thanks alot for your help
  • papsterpapster Member Posts: 1
    I need to replace the transfer case in my 94 yj. It is a 4 cyl auto. The repair books all say you have to remove the trans. Can you replace the case without removing the trans. Any help is appreciated.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I've never removed one from a YJ, but on the TJ (which is very similar) it comes off easily on its own.
  • kid2021kid2021 Member Posts: 6
    You can take the transfer case off without removing the trans. You might want to atleast support the trans and remove the cross member to make getting to the bolts a little easier. If not it still can be done.
  • carchercarcher Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem with the Jeep stalling and struggling to fire. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button, and the starter (w/solenoid). Now when I connect the battery, the starter motor begins turning. This happens without keys in the ignition, and the only way I have found to get it to stop turning is to disconnect the battery. Either way, the engine still won't fire. Any insight on where my problem could be would be much appreciated. :confuse:
  • willyb2willyb2 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1989 YJ. I come out in the morning and it starts right up, but idles high. When I start driving it the Jeep runs fine until I stop and the the jeep dies. As soon as it is warm itruns great.
  • lucas212lucas212 Member Posts: 2
    is it normal for me to be running around 2800 rpms at 60mph. it seems realy high. amy advise would be great.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It is possible. Depending on tire size, differential gearing ratio, etc, it could happen. I have a 2.5L, 4.88 gears, a 5 speed, and 33" tires. My RPM's aren't exactly low. :)

    2800 is just shy of where the 2.5 has the most power it seems (but that isn't saying a WHOLE lot. :)

    -Paul
  • tracy3999tracy3999 Member Posts: 10
    I have looked and asked everyone and everywere( not the jeep dealers yet) and can't find what im looking for!! I need new weatherstripping for the bottom of my back window!! It just goes along the bottom of the window so when you close the little back door the top window goes down so the rain doesn't get in.. I have a 2004 jeep wrangler tJ.. does anyone know were i can get this strip for my back window? It's not the the round rubber that goes in the window .. It's the thick piece that goes on the bottom of the window.. if you have any idea were i can purchase this it would be great!! Thanks.
  • lucas212lucas212 Member Posts: 2
    yeah thats just it this is a new jeep to me so im nit sure if anything has been switched out. I have 30" tires. is their anything i can do or switch out to make it better on the highway. Thanks Brian
  • kid2021kid2021 Member Posts: 6
    try jc whitney for the weather stripping. they have everything that I have needed for my 95 YJ that I could not find anywhere else. I'm sure they will be cheaper than the dealer as well
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I have looked and asked everyone and everywere( not the jeep dealers yet)........

    Why is it important to get a non-OE weatherstrip?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    Are we talking hard top or soft top here? If soft top, just get a new bar for the back window.

    BTW this should be in the Jeep Wrangler 97-2006 section not the YJ area.

    Try quadratec or JCWhitney.

    -Paul
  • tracy3999tracy3999 Member Posts: 10
    Thank you for trying to help me.. My jeep is a 2004 hard top.. TJ.. I have looked on many sites and i can't find this special weather stripping.. thanks
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    So we're talking hard top?

    I found some trim, but this may be for the side windows...

    http://www.jeepsareus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=JAU&Prod- uct_Code=lv51&Category_Code=Wrangler6

    http://www.jeepsareus.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=JAU&Prod- uct_Code=7921927589&Category_Code=Wrangler6

    You may be able to contact the people on that site to find exactly what you're looking to find.

    -Paul
  • tracy3999tracy3999 Member Posts: 10
    Oh.. no they aren't the right weather stripping.. Yes it is a hard top.. Its the piece that goes on the bottom of the back window.. so when you shut it the rubber goes over the back bottom door a little... Thank you so much for helping me.. I think you are on a roll.. lol.. Thank you again.. Tracy
  • doubleoakdoubleoak Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever fix the shake? I am having the same problem and I am beginning to think it may be my tires out of balance. It is starting to shake real bad around 50mph. I replaced the steering shock and turned my rotors on the front.
    I have a stock 2005 jeep wrangler unlimited.
  • lilchappylilchappy Member Posts: 3
    have 93 wrangler and speedometer stopped working. We changed censor twice and do not have a cable its harness. need to pass inspection could it be computer or anything else
  • fnj7729fnj7729 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me if it is worth the time and money to convert from a 2.5 I4 to the 4.0 I6?
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    It depends on you really. Some think it is a good upgrade. Others will say skip the 4.0 and just go to a V8.

    You MUST consider all the little things you have to do - transmission, transfer case (possibly), stronger axles. engine harness, radiator, hoses, motor mounts, etc. It is a lot more than just pulling the 2.5 out and putting something new in.

    -Paul
  • gblashkagblashka Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94 Wrangler SE that would not turn over so I had the battery and starter checked, turned out the battery was good and starter was bad. Replaced the starter and it still won't turn over. I checked to be sure everything was wired correctly and it is. So this brings me to my question. I'm down to replacing the ignition starter switch, but I can't figure out how to remove the steering column cover. I've removed the steering wheel and lock plate. The newer models have steering column covers in two pieces, but the '94 is one solid piece. The starter switch is right behind this cover and I need to slide it down somehow to get to the switch. If you have any idea on how to remove the steering column cover to get at the ignition starter switch please tell me. Spent the better part of two days trying to get to it. Thanks
  • 93cheep93cheep Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 yj that came with the 4 banger. I now run a 83 k5 blazer complete drivetrain. I am running an inline universal pump that is 5.5-9 psi. The problem that I am having is that iI have went though 4 fuel pumps in about 2 months. It is wired to the switch side of the SHUTDOWN AUTO CIRCUIT. Not sure if the voltage on it exceeds over the 12v and that is what is burning them up or not. Can you tell me if that circuit varies with the output of the alt?
  • mohrlingmohrling Member Posts: 9
    I've recently rebuilt my 1988 Jeep Wrangler from top to bottom. The carburetor was recently rebuilt and installed. Now, unfortunatly the the vacum lines are and other air/EGR/PCV lines may need replacing and verified. Is there any data or rescorces that are available you may reccommend? I've the Chiltons book on this but frankly it's a labarynth of hoses, check-valves and whatnot? Or is it back to the garage?

    Thanks!
  • mohrlingmohrling Member Posts: 9
    My '88 has a rubber windshield gasket. ">
  • drdetail66drdetail66 Member Posts: 2
    there is a guy on ebay that carries or can get the vacuum hoses and lines you need and he can also fax you the vacuum diagrams for your specific jeep and motor size... very good guy and fast to respond.... here is his ebay name airparkcjd look him up and he can help you
  • davedenndavedenn Member Posts: 26
    I have an 83 CJ7 Jeep that I have removed the trans from and replaced the clutch. Now that I am attempting to replace it in the engine, it refuses to go enough to engage the spline gear. I have manually turned the engine many times, but it still refuses to go that last inch and a half. It appears to be aligned but just won't go. I greased the spline as required, so that is probably not the problem. Any suggestions?

    Dave
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Well, you can start by removing the grease from the splines. It will trap dirt and prevent the clutch from operating smoothly. If you want to use anything, use a dry graphite of the type used for lubricating locks.

    If all you have done is to replace the clutch, then either the friction plate is not properly centered, or the pilot bearing has moved or is damaged.
    Also, if you've allowed the weight of the transmission to hang on the clutch while trying to install it, you might have warped the center of the friction plate.
  • davedenndavedenn Member Posts: 26
    When I removed the transmission, I cleaned the spline and shaft well with brake cleaner and wiped it down before applying the thin layer of grease from the small packet that came with the new clutch. We did not replace the pilot bearing (it appeared in good shape) so that should not be an issue. We checked the alignment tool for mating with the old clutch, and it appeared a good match. As for the hanging part, we are using two 3 ton floor jacks to support the transmission, transfer case, and bell housing. The difficulty is the weight of the transfer case. I am considering removing it so the transmission won't be so heavy, but have never do one before. The Chilton manual is a bit hazy on the subject, so I reluctant to remove it. I may check the alignment of the clutch because I am not sure whether my son (who aligned it) considered the centering when bolting it on.

    Thanks for your suggestions. if you have any about removing the transfer case, please let me know.

    Dave
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    By all means remove the transfer case; it will not only reduce weight but give a better balance too.

    Centering the friction plate requires finesse, it isn't just a case of 'if the tool fits it must be good'.
    Start by mounting the clutch assembly to the flywheel with the alignment tool in place, but only lightly tighten the clutch cover bolts. The friction plate should be free to move when a little sideways pressure is applied to the tool.
    Using the tool, push the friction plate all the way up, then all the way down. The exact center of alignment in the vertical plane will be half way between the two positions.
    Now move the plate from one side to the other to find the center of alignment in the horizontal plane.
    The tricky part is maintain the center position in one plane while aligning the other, but you'll soon get a feel for it after practicing it a few times.
    Finally, torque down the cover housing to the correct setting and, just as important, in the correct order.

    Despite the grease packet that came with your clutch, I stand by what I said.
    The grease will hold both dust from the friction material and dirt, neither of which will contribute to the smooth operation of the clutch.
    Use a graphite lubricant which either comes as a dry powder or as graphite flakes suspended in a liquid carrier which will evaporate after application.
    Available from most hardware stores, here's a link to both types at ACE Hardware.
  • davedenndavedenn Member Posts: 26
    Someone mentioned earlier that this site contains a jeep repair manual. Does anyone know how I access it? I am trying to get some details on how to replace the U-Joint on my 83 Jeep CJ7.


    Dave
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Try Online Repair Manuals.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • fkelleyfkelley Member Posts: 4
    how do you get the shifter rod off so you can work inside to see if shift forks are the issue? it will not shift and it looks like someone was in it once.I have no clue as to how to repair this anyone had past issues?
  • fkelleyfkelley Member Posts: 4
    I just had that issue replaced feul pump,and hoses. also dropped tank cleaned with kerosine . RUNS GREAT NOW!!!!!!
  • g24sheltong24shelton Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 Jeep Wrangler S 2.5 L. The problem I am having is when I start it will run real rough and idle will increase and decrease contiously. When i take off will be starving for fuel. When i run it on the road it will do good until I turn it off and will do the same thing. I have replaced the TPS and fuel filter. Anyone have anymore solutions. At this time not getting a check engine code
  • sbaker6612sbaker6612 Member Posts: 5
    So I'm replacing the clutch in my '93 Wrangler with 4.0 engine and am having issues with removing the transmission/transfer case. All the bolts etc. are out, but it is binding up on the block. I am using a transmission lift but imagine there is a "sweet spot" that gives the best balance fore and aft. Any ideas?
  • mohrlingmohrling Member Posts: 9
    Thanks!
  • sonofadockersonofadocker Member Posts: 12
    Afternoon - many many of the Jeep water pumps have an impellor ( moves the coolant) that is made a abs plastic. This, when the impellor starts to fail it does not hold its shape and move the coolant.
    please look at all the other suggestions - coolant hoses that collaspe when hot - old thermostat etc.

    but most jeep motors that i get that have blown head gaskets have BAD water pumps.
  • firemandelappfiremandelapp Member Posts: 1
    i have a jeep wrangler 1993.runs great but just recently after extend drive time it will stumble and stall after you let it sit for a while it starts right up and runs great.help
  • jeepers60jeepers60 Member Posts: 2
    When I turn the ignition to crank the 4.0L it spins but will not attempt to crank for up to 7-8 attempts. It will finally crank and when it does it runs fine, but I'm hesitant to venture out very far. You can kill it and it will restart after 2-3 attempts, if the restart is within minutes of killing it. When I turn the ignition on I get all of the check lights and instrument activity like normal. Does this sound like a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    It sounds like it's your selenoid that sits on your starter. The selenoid is what causes your starter to engage the flywheel when you turn the key.
  • jeepers60jeepers60 Member Posts: 2
    No, the starter is engaging and the engine is turning over but it won't crank for 7-8 attempts. It is like it is lacking fire or fuel. Like I stated the check engine light comes on when I turn on the ignition so I don't suspect the computer as the problem. The puzzling thing about this is when it finally cranks it runs just fine. I am a little uneasy to venture to far for fear that it may not crank on the 7th or 8th try one day. It has always cranked quickly and easily. Does this even resemble a fuel pump or fuel filter problem. Please advise.
  • gouchegouche Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1988 Yj getting ready to install a weber carb. with fuel regulator, then a new distributer, had a friend with same set-up but lost his number,I think if someone can send me some pictures of same set-up, I would be most greatful.@greggouche@aol.com
  • gouchegouche Member Posts: 2
    need pics of a weber carb. actually installed for view, so I can attempt to install,anybody with any pictures please,like a birds eye view, 360 degrees or other,thanks greggouche@aol.com for e-mail
  • davedenndavedenn Member Posts: 26
    I have an 83 CJ-7 that has a T-5 Warner trans. I am attempting to locate the clutch master cylinder that I have been told should be on the vehicle. I can't find it! Can anyone give me a clue where to look? The manual (Chilton) says it is under the hood, but I don't see anything that looks even vaguely like the picture of the thing.

    Thanks,

    Dave
  • dustie1dustie1 Member Posts: 17
    Is there any way to bypass the automatic kill switch, I would like to start my Jeep and keep it running. My Jeep is an automatic is the kill switch internal or external this is also 4 cyl as well. We need to bypass the auto kill switch so we can read the codes to see what's wrong with it. Any help would be great.
  • davedenndavedenn Member Posts: 26
    I have an 86 CJ7. The windshield wipers park rather high on the windshield instead of near the bottom. Is there an adjustment either on the motor or the wiper linkage that can be adjusted so they park near the bottom of the windshield?

    Thanks for all your help in the past, you're all great people!

    Dave
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