Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

redcurlz · December 2009

My father is deploying to Sudan, Africa in a couple weeks. He gave me his 79' CJ-7 to start restoring while he's away. This is a big deal for me. He wants me to take out the 3spd and put in a 727 wagoneer automatic to start. Any tips on how to start this?

I like to think i know enough about vehicles to get this job done but i think there needs to be some tranny mount conversions. Right? :confuse:

davedenn · December 2009

I need help. My grandson has a 73 CJ-7 that he has lost the ignition key to. Is there any way to remove the old ignition and replace it without the old key? Everything I have read (even the manual) and been told says that I need the key to replace the ignition in the column.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Dave

mac24 · December 2009

Everything I have read (even the manual).............

LOL...always the very last resort, RTFM!

Although the manual didn't help in this case, and I don't have specific knowledge of the CJ7 ignition switch, is it not possible to remove the switch from the column and take it to a locksmith to have a key cut.
It's something that can be easily done, although as it takes longer than just copying an existing key you can expect to pay a little more.

Get a couple of spares cut at the same time as well.

davedenn · December 2009

Mac24,

In response to your post, I did read the manual. It is where I discovered (and at online help sites like this one) that one needs the key to turn it to the "on" position to be able to remove the cylinder from the column. I am trying to find another way that may include disassembling the column. I did so to the point where I was unable to go any farther since the ignition cylinder seems to be preventing the column sleeve on the Jeep from coming off to expose the "guts." I might add that I have an 86 that seems to be almost identical to the 77, and it too requires the key to remove the ignition cylinder.

Thanks for your help.

Dave

mac24 · December 2009

In response to your post, I did read the manual.

No offence intended Dave; it was the way you wrote it that made me smile.

Is it possible to remove the complete column? If so then take that to the locksmith. If not then have the locksmith come to you.

That's not as fanciful as it seems as locksmiths regularly make housecalls as a normal part of their business.

davedenn · December 2009

Mac24,

No problem. The main issue is that my teenage grandson feels badly enough about losing the only key and now he has to spend most of his Christmas money (that he was saving for auto insurance, etc.) for a locksmith to come and make a new key. I was just hoping there was a less expensive way.

Dave

davedenn · December 2009

Thanks to all who responded to my request for help with my question about removing the column cylinder without the key. I figured it out. By removing the steering wheel, compressed plate, and turn signal switch, you can put a small screwdriver in the slot over the key cylinder, press the small lever, and the cylinder comes right out. I was able to get a new cylinder with keys for $40 at the local parts store and all is well with the world now.

Dave

sbaker6612 · January 2010

I have a '93 Wrangler with the 4.0 engine, headers, KN intake. My problem is that when the engine is approaching operating temperature after start-up (not immediately after) I get a decrease in idle speed almost to stalling then it pops back up to proper idle. This occurs occasionally, but is getting more frequent especially when it's cold. After it reaches operating temp, it seems to run normally. I have replaced: MAP sensor, MAT sensor, crank shaft position sensor, coolant temp sensor (it does not have a knock sensor that I can find). Any suggestions?

davedenn · January 2010

Has anyone heard of this? I recently replaced the turn signal switch inside the steering column on my 86 Jeep CJ7. I bought the Jeep last year from a fella who had replaced the stock steering wheel with an aftermarket one and the horn did not work. After I changed the signal switch, the horn works when I push in on the steering column! Very strange.

I have a suspicion that when I push down on the steering wheel, it is pushing the spring loaded retaining disk down to contact the horn button in the column, but I can't recreate the honking effect when the column is torn down. It may be a grounding issue at that point.

Any ideas why it works that way and not by pushing down on the horn button?

Dave :confuse: :confuse:

davedenn · January 2010

I have an 86 CJ7 that I bought last summer. The previous owner(s) had removed the OEM steering wheel and replaced it with a Grant. They had also removed the turn signal cancelling cam and button that activates the horn on the signal switch. As the switch was cracked, I replaced it with a new one and ordered a new canceling cam. When I reassembled the entire column according to my Chilton manual, the retaining plate that is held down by a retaining clip, pushes the canceling cam so far down onto the horn button on the signal switch that it activates the horn all the time. I fiddled with it for over an hour before I gave up and removed the canceling cam. Now, the horn works by pushing down on the steering wheel, but that is not what it was designed to do. Anyone out there with an idea on why the retaining plate pushes the cam down so far onto the spring loaded steering column shaft that it activates the horn? I am at my wits end.

Thanks for all your help,

Dave

wal_man07 · January 2010

Pretty new to jeeps but I noticed play in my lower column shaft under the hood. Got the lower bearing that is bad but not sure how to change it. Anybody know about this? :confuse:

davedenn · January 2010

I have an 86 CJ7 that has the old wind wings. The problem is that when I bought it, the driver's wind wing was broken at the top pivot point, so every time I open the wing, it flops out and catches the wind. Although it won't fall out, I am hesitant to use it that way. I checked my Chilton manual and it doesn't address the wind wings at all. I believe the top pivot is attached to the window frame and appears to be broken just where it extends down into the wing to create the pivot. Does anyone have any experience fixing this problem? Is the pivot post welded to the door frame or can it be removed and replaced?

Thanks for any suggestions or advice.

Dave

fkelley · February 2010

the window sould not come out. it is a replaceable unit it is one peice and its not bad to install.check 4wd hardware.com they haveit all.good luck,frank.

davedenn · February 2010

fkelly,

Are you saying that the windwing is one piece? It appears that the shaft that allows the top of the wing to pivot is broken off from the frame. Is the post (pivot point) originally attached to the wing or the frame?

I only ask because it appears that the top of the wing has a hole where the post would fit but is missing. It is difficult to tell (because of the rubber molding around the frame) if the pivot post was originally coming out of the frame or the wing.

Dave

willyb2 · February 2010

I am looking for an air control valve so I can pass emissions. The factory doesnt make them any more. The vakve is half plastic. Thething just fell apart on me.
Thanks

nickst · March 2010

I put my 95 wrangler on the lift, and am trying to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor... But the dam thing WON'T COME OUT...
Tried oil, heating it with a torch, prying it, pulling it and banging it with a hammer... not in that order.

Has anyone had similar problems removing their sensor?

Any advice is much appreciated. thanks.

Also, here is a picture of the existing sensor;
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Drivetrain/Jeep...

Coincedentally, the new sensor I bought which I was told would work in my jeep model looks like;
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-inf...

Don't know if the difference means it won't work for sure... But I'm not even to that point yet.

mac24 · March 2010

There are several air control valves in the emissions system, are either of these what you need?

YJ Air Control Valves

mac24 · March 2010

......the dam thing WON'T COME OUT...

I've never done one on a YJ, but assuming it's the same as the later models (the engines are similar) the difference between the sensors you have may be due to there being different sensors for the 4.0 auto and manual, and the 2.5.
Unfortunately those links don't work for me.

I'm assuming you have the 4.0 auto as the CPS on that one is located in a hole in the bellhousing, whereas the others are mounted externally, secured with two bolts and easily removed.
The answer to getting it out is not to worry about destroying the old sensor. Remove it in pieces if necessary. Drill it, grind it, use a Dremel for delicate cutting, even use a chisel if necessary. Also, it will help to have someone hold a shop-vac to it as you work to stop any debris dropping into the bellhousing.

Good luck.

nickst · March 2010

Thanks for the reply, but does this mean you have to drop the transmission or something to do all that kind of work?

Theres very little room to get at and work around the sensor.

mac24 · March 2010

It depends on what tools you have available to you. A right angle drill would be a great help.
However, it may well be necessary to either drop the transmission, or possibly move it back a few inches to gain access to the CPS from inside the bellhousing.

nick_edge · March 2010

hey,
i've got a 1993 wrangler and the clutch is starting to cause problems fairly regularly.
sometimes when i push the clutch in when the engine is running it doesn't let my put it into gear, or when driving, change from gear to gear. it's starting to become a hassle when driving around as i've ended pulling over a few times just to change gears.. then having to start again from first..
sometimes it helps if i pump the clutch a couple times, or if there are a few more revs.
i think it might be the clutch fluid leaking, but i'm not sure.

any help at all???

sbaker6612 · March 2010

Hello Nick,
I would check 3 spots as a first step for leakage: on firewall inside the cab by the clutch pedal, on the firewall in the engine bay by the master cylinder, and on the hydraulic line by the bleed valve. And, as long as you are under the car, check for leakage where the clutch hydraulic line goes into the bell housing. Or, you may simply be low on fluid.

If there is no sign of a leak, you may need either a new master cylinder (watch what you buy; I've replaced mine 4 times due to faulty manufacturing), or a new slave cyllinder. To replace the former is a piece of cake. For the later, it requires you to remove the transmission, so you may as well replace the clutch assembly at the same time.

Good luck,

Steve

mac24 · March 2010

i think it might be the clutch fluid leaking

I agree.

nickst · March 2010

A few days ago I posted about having problems removing the crankcase sensor from my 95 wrangler... Everyone said, hey it should come out no problem...

Well, this is what I was forced to do to try and get this dam 2" plastic sensor out...

Set up a come along on a scaffold to winch the dam thing out !!!!

After a few seconds, of 4000lbs torque...

So now I'm forced to try and drill the remaining half of the sensor out, which is EXTREMELY difficult due to the CS's positoning...

It seems nearly impossible to distinquish the remaining sensor piece from the aluminum of the bell housing...

MY QUESTION IS:
What does the Crankshaft Position Sit in? Whats underneath it?
Is it sitting in a solid chamber, or is it open underneath?
Can I drill right through the bottom without damaging anything underneath it - I mean obviously you don't want to go to far past the sensor below it - BUT if the bottom of the sensor is sensing something resting against the bottom of it, then drilling through would destroy the mechanisim... If it is sensing on the side of the sensor then drilling through the bottom would be safe...

Anyone following me on this?

I'm about to shoot myself in the head... or give up and ">buy a horse.

greenjeep87 · March 2010

i was off roading on the beach abit when reverse went forward then i smelt a burning and it started making a buzzing noise so i got it towed home and now its leaking fluid of some sort can any one tell me what happened would be a big help

mac24 · March 2010

Anyone following me on this?

The CPS senses from the bottom, which will be very close to the flexplate. So close that a new sensor will have a thin paper spacer stuck to the bottom and the paper must contact the flexplate when it's installed. When the flexplate rotates it will tear the paper off leaving the correct clearance.
The flexplate has slots in it which the CPS senses to register the position and speed of the flexplate as it spins.

It's important the the CPS sits square and snug in it's hole. If it's cocked over slightly or too far from the flexplate it won't read correctly.
As you're having difficulty distinguishing between the remains of the sensor and the bellhousing I'm concerned that you'll end up enlarging the mounting hole.
If you're unhappy now it will be a lot worse if you have to buy and install a new bellhousing as well.
You really need to be able to tap or punch out the remaining part of the CPS, and you can't do that while the flexplate is directly below it. I think your choices now are either to remove the engine, or to remove the transmission.
A third option may be to move the transmission back a couple of inches away from the flexplate, but you may still have access issues.

Whatever you decide, give the remains of the sensor a good soaking in PB Blaster or Kroil (not WD40) before you make the final extraction.

Good luck!

mac24 · March 2010

can any one tell me what happened

From the limited information given I can only guess that you've either damaged the transmission or the cooling system. The fluid could be either transmission fluid or coolant and the noise could either be the fan or the transmission.

Why don't you have a closer look at it so you can describe the color of the fluid and locate where it's coming from.

davedenn · March 2010

I need to adjust the brake pedal on my CJ7 'cause it pushes too low to the floor and won't come up in line with the clutch pedal. I have looked for an adjustment, but don't see one in the usual place. Is it possible to adjust the pedal so it starts higher and ends higher? It would seem logical that it would, I just don't see any way to do that without modifying the pedal (which seems a bit drastic under the circumstances).

My old '48 flat fender had an adjustment bolt behind the pedal that pushed it up, but I don't see one on this critter. By the way, I originally thought it was an issue with worn pads on the front, shoes on the back, or air in the line, but that turned out not to be the case.

Dave

fkelley · March 2010

I had to add a spring to top of pedal it is not hard to find a place to hook it

davedenn · March 2010

Fkelley,

Did you drill a hole in the pedal arm to attach the spring? Also, the pedal goes within an inch of the floor with the power boost, is there a way to limit it so it engages earlier and doesn't go so far down?

Dave

jeremy23 · May 2010

I have a 1998 jeep wrangler and when I put it in 1st gear it makes a loud bang that moves the entire vehicle does anyone know what it could be.

davedenn · May 2010

Have you checked the U-joints? That will happen if one or more of the bolts has sheered off or is missing and the bracket that holds the joint in place is loose and moving around. The drive line will hit the bottom of the floor pan or other areas and make a God-awful noise. I been there and done that!

Dave

jeremy23 · May 2010

I will check it out thank you.

jcninn · June 2010

so i blew out the rear end in my jeep (89) and i have now replaced it all.

drove it around and it sounds like something is loose

. i took off the u-joint and the pinion is loose i hit the bearing in and it moved in, so that was loose. and there was no play in the pinion but whn i turn the tires, the play was back. the yoke and seal were out when i spun it again. maybe thats why. other wise i think its because there arent enough pinion shims in it, maybe not. idk.any help???? thanks

sbaker6612 · July 2010

Any suggestions on replacement fuel injectors for the 4.0L HO engine?

Thanks

cwonavy1994 · August 2010

I have a 1994 jeep wrangler and the engine turns over but wont start. the engine light does not come on right a way. I have to turn the key on and off for about five mints. Or untill i hear a clicking noise under the hood then the light comes on and i can start it. I have this same problem... What's the answer???

davedenn · August 2010

I had a 93 with a similar problem. In fact I once had a 58 Edsel that experienced the same issue (since I was in high school and didn't have the money for a new one right away, I had to run two wires from either pole on the relay into the passenger compartment and short them out to start the bugger). It turned out to be the same problem with both vehicles. There is a ignition/starter relay in the engine compartment (usually mounted on the firewall) that get "messed up" and won't always allow the starter to turn the engine. Eventually, the thing will just die all the way and have to be replaced. The best way to diagnose this is to open the hood and have a friend listen for where the click is coming from. That should tell you if it is a starter relay or not. I hope this helps.

Dave

idaholtby · August 2010

Your problem sounds to be classic of bad capacitors in the ECM. When the capacitors go bad, it takes a few minutes for the ecm to fully power up when the ignition is powered on. The "clicking" you hear is the ASD and Fuel Pump relay energizing once the ECM has powered up. Don't fret, this is a 5$ repair if you can solder. I highly recommend checking out jeep sights such as jeepforumn.com as this topic is covered in depth. There are several threads with pictures on how to effect this repair.

skratka · September 2010

I started hearing similar bangs on my 06 (2 door) unlimited 30k miles. It seems to occur mostly when the wheel is turned and the jeep flexes (turning up a driveway, riding over a raised) manhole cover.
It sounds like a loud bang from the rear but cant tell where and I cant always recreate it.

Any ideas? Would there be any signs if I looked underneath?

thx

crkyolfrt · December 2010

Not sure where to post this but I thought a CJ5 forum would be a good place to start.

Anyone know the innards of a Warn winch? I have some technical questions that involves both electric and mechanical.

Or... if someone has a better suggestion which forum or other site to post this question, limme know and thanks.

mac24 · December 2010

Warn make a wide variety winches with many differing parts and designs.

The parts lists and repair manuals can usually be found with the aid of Google.

crkyolfrt · December 2010

Thanks but that hasn't been any help. I have technical questions regarding how the winch uses the 12 volts and how is direction change determined. (are both big terminals live when one or the other is in use? I am pretty sure I have ruled out the solenoid after a year of off and on testing) It is on a light duty Warn A2500. 2500lb.

It will go in one direction but very intermittent in the other. No apparent corrosion. Any wire connectors (there aren't any except for solenoid which checks out ok) look like new. If i power one terminal directly from a battery...too hard to explain here unless I know someone knows these winches..

mac24 · December 2010

...too hard to explain here unless I know someone knows these winches....

I have very specific knowledge of some of the heavier winches, but until now none about yours.
The manual and parts list is on the first page of a simple Google search and you'll find it here: Warn A2500

To answer your first question, unlike on some of the heavier duty models your winch motor has only two connections.
It therefore reverses direction by means of the solenoid reversing the polarity of the current supplied to it.
If you use a multi-meter on the winch terminals you'll see that the terminal showing positive when the winch is spooling in will become negative when you spool out, and the same reversal applies to the negative terminal.

The fact that the motor works correctly in one direction indicates it's basically sound, but there is the remote possibility that one of the brushes has a weak spring or is loose in its holder causing it to lift and break contact occasionally when turning in the least used direction.

Much more likely is an issue with the solenoid (I know you said you ruled it out), or the hand controller.

crkyolfrt · December 2010

good info here, thanks!

I do have that pdf thanks. I studied late into the night, and managed to find some info that i wasn't aware of. As u say, polarity is controlled thru the solenoid. But what I didn't know is that there is some form of shunt within the solenoid, and this somehow works as a brake. I wish i could find a schematic, i was on the trail but the guys were chatting back in yr 2000 and now their schematic of retrofitting 4 Ford solenoids to do the job that this solenoid (contactor is Warn's name) does. I also found out it is actually a forklift part. Thru the dlr it is about 150. But 104 was mentioned USDollars i think, 10 years ago. I think I will take it apart and see if there is anything obvious i can see to fix. If not (aND after confirming the brushes are free, thanks for that, and altho u said rare, I almost suspect that might be the case as I couldn't believe how much - what looked like carbon, debris i found in the winch when i took it apart. I never did find the brushes, not in any conventional shape i am used to looking for anyway)

One thing it does tho when i know it won't reverse for me, is it will wind out (it's on a snowplow blade) and instead of stopping when you let off the rocker handlbar mtd switch, it rolls all the way to the ground. That is what that shunt circuitry prevents when it's working the right way. But i wonder if a brush was sticking, maybe it too could allow the winch to spool out without braking. I think the shunt works electrically, countering bewteen directions, so if a brush was sticking, the shunt wouldn't work right?

What do you think this shunt consists of? I need the winch, it hasn't quit snowing here in 3 days and I am getting snowed in to the point the plow will be in over it's head. I have been manually lifting the blade but my back has been poorly lately and that isn't helping it much.

I also have a Champion I bought at a good price that i was thinking of putting on if need be but it requires a whole dif mount. But i wonder if i can use the control it came with, on my motor? You know what I got. Now the Champion has a handheld controller that has 4 wires, 2 red 2 black. One set goes to the battery and the other obviously to the two winch terminals. I guess this handheld is a big sw capable of high amps in lieu of solenoid use. I wonder if it will work on my winch tho by hooking the other set of red/blk to the two terminals on my winch? I didn't want to assume as I don't know if winches are all grded the same etc.

mac24 · December 2010

One thing it does tho when i know it won't reverse for me, is it will wind out (it's on a snowplow blade) and instead of stopping when you let off the rocker handlbar mtd switch, it rolls all the way to the ground. That is what that shunt circuitry prevents when it's working the right way

Yours is a very basic winch and AFAIK there's no electrical means of holding the load.
Heavier duty units have a brake for this purpose which can be overridden by the power of the motor to power out.
Unless yours is dramatically overloaded, the design of the gear mechanism ensures that the load can't overpower the gearing, and when under load it must be powered out.
If your blade continues to lower when the switch is released it means it's continuing down under power.
It's not the gears slipping because if they were worn then either it wouldn't raise up, or it would slip back down once it was raised.
The fault here is either a sticking solenoid/contactor or the remote switch doing the same thing.

Finally, if the motor casing was full of carbon debris it doesn't bode well for the length of life remaining in the motor.
The motor has no internal replaceable parts that I can see, and if the solenoid/contactor is as expensive as you say, it may be time to start looking for a new winch, or maybe try to find one that's mechanically broken but electricaly ok.

crkyolfrt · December 2010

Good to know thanks. But when it doesn't brake reeling out, just the weight of the plow (80lb?) pulls it down. And it make no motor noise, other than the mechanical sound of the reel unwinding and spinning the motor (not under power tho).

So this is a bit confusing.

Where is all the carbon from you think? i thought it was from brushes, but admit I am a bit out of my league with winches. Do you think my Champion switch will damage the Warn? I think that it will work. It will at least rule out either the solenoid and handlebar switch.

This winch has only had light duty its whole life. Snowplowing for 6 years, but has cycled in and out many times of course, but only a foot of line at a time. Only twice have i used it to winch something really heavy. Do u have any idea the life expectancy of a winch? I figure this one owes me still. A lot.

mac24 · December 2010

If the Champion switch is as you describe, then to change from 'in' to 'out' it must reverse the polarity of the connection.
If it's merely an on/off switch, then the Champion winch must change direction mechanically.
If it's the former than you should be able to use the Champion switch to bypass the solenoid/contactor on your Warn, as long as the Champion winch motor is rated the same as the Warn, i.e. as long as the switch cables are heavy duty enough.
It should certainly be ok to use without a load for test purposes anyway.

As for the Warn unspooling under an 80lb load, if it's not being powered down then either the gear teeth are slipping or the clutch is disengaging.

crkyolfrt · December 2010

"As for the Warn unspooling under an 80lb load, if it's not being powered down then either the gear teeth are slipping or the clutch is disengaging."

I agree.

I know the gears are not slipping, I know this for certain. But if the clutch is disengaging how come when it doesn't, it will wind back in no problem? Like I say, i know ahead of time every single it won't wind back in, because of thaat runon it does winding out. If it runson, it won't wind back in, biut if it stops proper with the brake and holds the blade, it will wind back in each and every time.

mac24 · December 2010

But if the clutch is disengaging how come when it doesn't, it will wind back in no problem?

Because when the clutch doesn't disengage of its own volition the winch works normally, therefore it can be powered in or out.
When the clutch is disengaged, either manually or through failure, then the motor is disconnected from the gearing and can neither power in or out.
Again, this is normal and as designed. The usual reason for manually disengaging the clutch is to be able to reel out a length of cable (many feet), to reach an attachment point.
The question you should be asking is "Why does it sometimes disengage of its own accord?"
The answer to that will be found when you strip down the gear end of the winch.
I think you'll either find wear or damage to parts #3 and #4, possibly a weak or broken clutch spring #16, or it may be that the drive shaft #14 and/or the parts it engages with have started to round out and it only engages intermittently

crkyolfrt · December 2010

Well, I have an update. I have successfully wired the Champion sw to work and got my road plowed.
But I still think the OEM solenoid has a shunt function that electrically brakes the winch. I know u said they only do that on big winches, but at this point it is the only thing that makes sense. It is working consistently now in and out, except that it free spools out like before when i knew it wouldn't reel back in. Except that now it reels back in every time.

The clutch lock (if u want to free spool) is on the right side of winch and has distinct clunk engage or disengage position. It locks readily and holds every time i manual swing the lever, so i am quite sure that internally the clutch is working. Unless there are two clutch mechanisms inside? One that works on the motor and this levered one? The schematic doesn't show that so i still feel there is some form of shunt circuit which prevents the wincch from unspooling with just the weight of the plow.
Also, swing that lever unlocks the drum and rolls out super easy...could use a finger, but when it is powered out, but free wheels to the grd, that is not easy, it requires a lot of force, as in the weight of that blade at least. As it is turning the motor. Once blade stops, tho, it is hard to pull out more. I will check that today come to think of it. Lasyt fall i had it apart and didn;'t see a problem with the driveshaft or that spring. If there is a shunt thing, what we know now is that the Champion does not have that built into its switch.

What is procedure to turn winch with a battery? I have tried and get inconsistent results. The other day I hooked battery to a grd bolt on frame, then pos to Ter#1 on the winch. It worked for a second and stopped, never to get it to do it again.

So i was skeptical the Champion sw would work. But it does. So what is normal procedure to manually power winch off the battery? Pos to one terminal and negative to the other terminal? And reverse that to reverse winch right?

I have taken the solenoid off and today I will take it apart and hopefully see some points that just need filing or something else obvious. I wish i knew how these shunt systems work. Do you?

Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles