Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (up to 1996)

24567

Comments

  • markcollmarkcoll Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for the info! Does it use the same gear oil as the manual states? Also, if if does go out, what would you recommend to replace it with?
    Thanks again.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    I don't know what was indicated in the manual, but at one time Jeep was incorrectly recommending the use of GL-5 spec., when it should have GL-3.

    However, in view of the cost and difficulty of repair, I'd use a full synthetic to be on the safe side, maybe RedLine.

    The transmission that replaced yours from '90-'00 was the AX15. After '00 it was the NV3500 or the NV3550. Any of those would be a good choice.
  • kid2021kid2021 Member Posts: 6
    I have a 95 wrangler with a 2.5. Every once in a while it will stick in second and sometimes it wont go into first of second. I have to double clutch like I'm driving a semi in order to keep it from grinding when I shift and down shift. So before I actually tear it apart any suggestions as to what it might be and what im in for. never touched a tranny before so this is all new for me...
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Assuming that the clutch disengages properly, it's almost certainly a synchromesh problem.

    Stripping and rebuilding a manual transmission (yours is an Asian AX5) isn't hard, but do try to have a workshop manual to guide you. If you're really lucky you'll just need the first and second synchro rings which cost about $20 each. However, if there's a lot of wear and tear an exchange rebuilt unit may be more economical.

    Good luck!
  • marmiamarmia Member Posts: 1
    Just picked up a 93 wrangler and on the ride home an idiot light shaped like an arrow or a house was flashing on every once in a while. Ant idea what this is a warning of?
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    That sounds like the "upshift indicator light" (I believe it is white) designed to help you get better gas milage by indicating when you may shift into a higher gear (a bit of a holdover from the first oil crisis). The light is a suggestion, not a requirement - shift when you think you should. I no longer pay much attention to my light, but I think it stlll works.
  • erickplerickpl Member Posts: 2,735
    That sounds exactly right. I solved the problem - I removed the light entirely and used it in my HVAC control that was missing a light! :)

    -Paul
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,349
    I simply adjusted my steering wheel so that the rim blocks the upshift light... :P

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Sticking a piece of electrical tape over it works well too! :shades:
  • pwagnerpwagner Member Posts: 1
    I have 1989 Jeep Wrangler and it won't pass emmisions testing! It is 6 cylinder 4 wheel drive, 170,000 miles, been off road a lot. Had lines checked and some replaced, carburator runs rough and has smoke and oil dripping from tailpipe and can't seem to find problem. Any suggestions?
  • boobahboobah Member Posts: 18
    You'd probably do best finding someone to set up the carb so it passes, and then set it back to where it runs properly. I've had to do that with my 87 Wrangler for years..either that or pay someone for a sticker..
  • brendalmitchbrendalmitch Member Posts: 1
    Hello - I have 1992 Jeep Wrangler - great condition with 82,000 miles but recently has been cutting out on me more and more - about 6 mos ago I added STP gas additive to the tank and it seemed to improve only 3 mos later to do it again and then it improved again until this past weekend when the STP additive is not working and its really coughing and quitting on me at stoplights - sometimes not starting again because it seems to have flooded - its frustrating because it doesn't do it all of the time!!!
  • patrick25patrick25 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1985 cj7 that has only 45,000 miles on it. The question I have , since the jeep has been stored for about 10 years what maintenance do you think i need to have done.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    .....what maintenance do you think i need to have done.

    All of it! ;)

    Ok, change all fluids, no exceptions (remember gas is a fluid too!).
    All rubber components will be suspect, especially brake hoses, wipers, coolant hoses, belts and tires.
    Change all filters, i.e. oil, air, and fuel.
    Renew all consumable ignition components, i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor arm, etc., etc.
    Get a new battery, grease the steering and suspension zerks, check the brakes, clean the carb (inside).

    Finally, expect some leaky seals and possibly some minor component failures in the first thousand miles or so. After that it should be good to go.

    Congratulations on your new Jeep! :)
  • patrick25patrick25 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your help! Looking forward to having fun with my new toy!
  • adel2foadel2fo Member Posts: 2
    In the last year I've noticed a fuel odor in, but mostly around the outside, of my Jeep. It's not constant, but it's there on a fairly regular basis. There's no visable sign of gas leaking, and I understand that it could be evaporating before I see it. I've had the evap canister checked, supposedly that's not the problem. Any suggestions on how to further troubleshoot this?
  • luke10luke10 Member Posts: 1
    I somehow happened to get an '89 wrangler for free from a neighbor. It's actually in decent shape and although it's got 134k miles, my friend said that it ran like a bear until he parked it in his yard and didn't start it for two years. I've scraped a lot of surface corrosion of the engine and I've charged the battery and tried to jump it but it only turns over very, very slowly a few times and then doesn't do much of anything. I'm thinking that there may be corrosion in the engine that's got things bound up and I wonder if anyone could give me a suggestion on how to get it started. I trust my friend about the condition of the engine so I don't think it's too far gone.
  • xscoutxscout Member Posts: 141
    I would not try to start the engine until you change the oil. After a few years who knows what you would be pumping through your engine. Remove all the plugs and put a shot of Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. Wait a bit and then "start" the engine with the plugs still out. It should turn VERY easily with no compression. Make sure the plugs are all clean and in good shape and then reinstall them. Also check the air intake for blockages as there are many small critters that may have made their home there. Finally after two years of just sitting I would be very surprised if any battery could still hold a charge well enough for a good start. You got a great deal!
  • smithjayne2002smithjayne2002 Member Posts: 1
    Found my car dead when I attempted to leave work this evening. It appeared that I might have left the lights on or something because it was completely reacting the same way it does when I've tried to start it and have drained the battery. A friend of mine came out and made numerous attempts to jump-start the car. It appeared to be getting some juice but would not start. The light under the dash came on but when I tried to turn it the ignition wouldn't crank and it made weird clicking noises. The noises continued on even after I ceased trying to start it. We couldn't get it going. The car was acting like a demonic machine from as the gauges were clicking and moving when the car keys weren't even in the ignition. Pushed in the hazard lights and some of the weirdest noises started coming out from behind the steering wheel. The car drove fine four hours earlier and I don't recall any noises sounding off when I got out of the car earlier indicating that I had left the lights on ... nor were there any check engine lights on. The battery is almost five years old and has some corrosion on it (not anything extreme. I'm not certain it's the battery ... it was really weird and appeared to be something electrical. Could the car react that way if it is either a dead or bad battery?
  • milkman7milkman7 Member Posts: 3
    I'm having the same problem Just bought a 1989 Islander tons of miles but body in great shape. Ran well when I bought it, but the next day idled real rough. Then started hard. I'm thinking about replacing carb. but not sure which carb. to replace it with. 4.0 liter, str8 six, any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • boobahboobah Member Posts: 18
    I have an 87 Wrangler...Jeeps from 87-89 are known for carbueration problems..my mechanic jerked me around for six months until he finally had to put a Weber carb in...never had a problem after that..got 207 K miles on it & the engine blew....rebuilt the engine and guess what...carb is still good!
  • stevenl2stevenl2 Member Posts: 1
    we are new to Jeeps. we just bought an '89 Wrangler Islander with 59k miles on it. The previous owners were the 2nd owner's and only put 9k miles on in the 12 years they owned it. It sat for the past two years. I got a good deal on it. Sent it to a shop to work out some kinks. Intake gaskets were replaced and a new ECM put in. Runs OK now except the idle really sucks and it stalls at stop signs constantly. the mechanic told me that carburetor was in bad shape. I've researched some on line and it appears a good substitute for this is by use of a Weber replacement kit. But, I'm having trouble identifying which engine I have. The registration says 4.2L. Just about everything I read on line suggests it is a 4.2L. But, when I take off the air filter I believe I am looking at a 1-barrel carb. All the Webers I've seen seem to be replacements for a 2v set up. Does it matter what's on there now? Can the Weber (for intance the K551-38) replace whatever's on there whether it's a 1v or a 2v?
    the engine code on the pass side of the block is hard to read but the last several digits appear to be 4CL25. I haven't found anything on line to tell me what that means.
    anyone's assistance or experience with this would be a great help.
    thanks!
    Steven in Oregon
  • kgabehurtkgabehurt Member Posts: 84
    Read this in the Sunday's question/answer auto section Chicago Tribune:

    Q The owner's manual for my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 3.7-liter V-6 gas engine recommends 5W-20 motor oil. The manual isn't clear whether synthetic oil can be used. Can it?

    A Chrysler says that under terms of its warranty synthetic oil can be used in only its diesel Grand Cherokee, not in any of its gas versions.

    You think this includes the Jeep Wrangler V-6 also? If so, why? I though all auto companies favored less friction via synthetic oils?
  • redrooster2redrooster2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a '93 YJ and I want to know everyone's opinion about the best, cheapest, and/or easiest full-length axle swap?

    Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • jdobbin14jdobbin14 Member Posts: 1
    I recently acquired a 1989 Jeep Wrangler 4.2L and took it to Merlin's to have a new exhaust put on. When they connected the air tube to the exhaust manifold they used high temp rubber hose, which of course melted and blew. I took it back to them and they did the same thing with the same outcome. What are you supposed to use to connect the air tube to the nipple on the exhaust manifold? Any ideas?
  • baffled4baffled4 Member Posts: 7
    Did you ever get your problem resolved? I am having the same problem with my 95 Jeep Wrangler. I have to wait for the auto shutdown and fuel pump relays to click, when the clicking stops the Jeep starts. The cold and wet rain make the waiting time longer.
    Thanks for your time.
  • middleageguymiddleageguy Member Posts: 42
    Have a 1989 YJ that my son at college (50 miles away) Turn signals were out and I replaced all questionable bulbs and replaced the fuse. Later noted in manual that backup lights are on same fuse. I tested and backup lights are also not working. Last year, my mechanic fixed backup lights by repairing the ground wire.

    Before I have my son drive back, should I have him change the backup bulbs? Any suggestions?
  • milkman7milkman7 Member Posts: 3
    I put the weber carb on and you were right runs like it is brand new can't believe the difference. But did create a new problem. It seems as though when re attaching the vacum hoses I missed the hose that engages the 4 wheel drive. Does anyone have a schematic of the system. Found nothing in Haynes book. Still waiting for the Chilton book to arrive. Again thanks boobah for the weber carb solution I couldn't be happier.
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    Does the "4-wheel drive" hose connect from the carburetor to the front axle? If so, then the hose may not be necessary. The vacuum-operated front axle disconnect can be circumvented by placing washers in the housing to keep the yoke connected all the time. This is not a problem because 4wd is connected only when the transfer case is connected. IIRC TJ's (and CJ's) do not have this disconnect system. It was used on YJ's in an attempt to decrease wear on the front differential, but was found to be unnecessary.
    There may be a post in the main Jeep Wrangler board relating to this fix, or you can search the web for the YJ front axle disconnect repair.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    should I have him change the backup bulbs? Any suggestions?

    I wouldn't bother if the bulbs are functioning.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    I'm not sure I understand the auto shutdown and fuel pump relays??? My 95 Jeep started having problems starting about two weeks ago. It used to start right away, but now I have to crank and crank, and crank it to get it to start. Once it starts, it runs fine. Funny thing is, when I shut it off, it will restart if I try it within about 10 seconds. I've replaced the fuel filter and added injector cleaner into the gas tank, but neither of those things has helped??? Any ideas or suggestions???

    Thanks!!!!
  • ken1026ken1026 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone answered your question? I'm having the same exact problem & I'm complaining lost. I would appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks
  • baffled4baffled4 Member Posts: 7
    Hi,
    Yes I finally got the answer I needed after changing ALL the sensors and relays. It was my computer, it's in the shop now waiting for a new one from Detroit. The way it was explained to me was that after having my key turned on long enough (only on a nice day that is) the computer finally made the connection it needed to start. But the mechanic first checked all the grounds and connections first, he explained to me computers rarely go bad, thats why it will take time to get one. I hope this helps you.
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    Hey baffled, if you don't mind me asking, what's that going to cost you. It appears that I have the same problem as you. Thanks....
  • baffled4baffled4 Member Posts: 7
    I just got my Jeep back yesterday. The mechanic told me he could get a used computer for $300. from a junk yard or a new one for $525. I got the new one. He did all the testing and installed it for me for $645. total. My Jeep starts right up. He told me the way he was positive it was the computer is because the check engine light didn't come on until after the relays clicked. The Jeep won't start unless the check engine light comes on. He told me the silicone around the computer was dry rotted, reason why it wouldn't start at all when it was damp or raining out. Feels great getting in and turning the key and it starts right up. Good Luck!!
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    Good for you!!! How long did it take to get the new one from Detroit? That must be what's wrong with mine. I really appreciate your responses. I may try to find one at a junk yard first though!!
  • baffled4baffled4 Member Posts: 7
    He ordered it Monday morning and had my Jeep back by Wednesday afternoon. Good luck with your Jeep. I missed mine when it was not running. :)
  • fyredanfyredan Member Posts: 17
    My transmission in my 95 Wrangler YJ is leaking small amounts into the cabin and I am trying to change the transmission shifter bushing, boot and gasket. My Chilton's manual says nothing about how to remove the shift lever to get to those parts. Can anyone give me directions and/or a diagram, please?
  • justin123321justin123321 Member Posts: 1
    My '87 YJ sat open during a day-long rain storm a few days back, and when I went to start it, the engine wouldn't turn over. The starter turns just fine, and the rest of the electrical equiptment works fine (starter and battery are new). But the engine doesnt even try to fire, rpms stay dead at zero even when the starter is turning. I let everything dry out and got the same result. I checked the spark plugs, just to make sure nothing inside was wet, and the first plug has a little bit of oil on the head. Other plugs were clean. If I have oil on the spark plug, then maybe the rain was just a coincidence, not the cause of the problem. Anybody have any ideas? I'd appreciate any help.
  • baffled4baffled4 Member Posts: 7
    Not sure if this will help, but my engine would crank but wouldn't start. Have your computer checked. One way to try it yourself is when you turn the key see if your check engine light goes on. Hope this helps.
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    I'm not sure what you mean by "sat open". Did you have the hood up or was your Jeep just sitting outside. In either case, you may want to take your distributor cap off and check for moisture inside it. Also check the rotor. It may be a good idea to replace them, they're not that expensive anyway. But of that doesn't produce results, then I suggest you look at what justin suggests. I had the same problem of it not starting, but it was all of the time. It would start once I got the check engine light to come on by turning the ignition key on and off several times. I finally had to replace the computer. $500.oo at the dealer or $250.00 for a reman at your local auto parts place. Good luck and I hope this helps....Jim
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    Hey fyredan, have you looked at Haynes(I think that's the name) repair manuals. They have info on about everything in them just like Chilton. Found one at my local library. I don't do much with tranny's. good luck!!!
  • rudywrudyw Member Posts: 1
    I have gas to injectors, plugs are firing and I have compression but the engine will not start. I have also replaced the Crank Shaft Postion sensor. Any ideas what to do next?
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    When you first turn on the ignition key to the start position, does the "check engine" light come on? It should. If it doesn't, then you have a bad computer module. If that's okay, then I assume you pulled a plug, grounded it, and saw visual spark to confirm that the plugs are firing. If both of these are confirmed, then the only other thing I can think of is water in your gas. I've had that problem before and it made my Jeep hard to start, but it did start. A way to check this would be to buy a can of starting fluid (ether). Take the air cleaner cover off and spray some into the opening and then try to start your Jeep. If it starts momentarily, then quits, you probably have some bad gas. If it won't fire at all, then I don't think you're getting spark, because ether will always fire. Hope this helps, good luck!!!
  • cmoilanencmoilanen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 wrangler with automatic transmission. It's been running at high rpms for the past couple of weeks -- between 3000-4000 before switching to a higher gear. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem might be?
  • mdunlapmdunlap Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Rio Grande, 4cyl, 5 speed. Act miles of 70,000. My clutch is dying quickly. I found a reasonable cost for replacement but I am to buy the necessary parts. Pressure plate, bearing and clutch are expected. My question is since my Jeep is 12 years old, what other components or problems may jump up? What can be anticipated for this clutch replacement other than the 3 items listed? I would rather be prepared and return unnecessary parts than run around like an idiot should I receive a call for the unexpected. Is $127.00 a fair price for the pressure plate, bearing and clutch?

    In addition, my synchronizer for 5th gear has been slightly grinding when shifting. Should I replace this? Should all sync be replaced? Is is worthwhile? Do you have a ballpark figure for the needed parts and labor to fix the sync?

    I know this is a lot of questions but I would like not to have someone put-it-to-me as deeply this time as some have tried and succeeded in doing in the past. thanks for your anticipated professional response, I do appreciate it. Mike
  • ceeotterceeotter Member Posts: 14
    I'm not sure if $127.00 is right for the parts. You may want to check around on the internet at Advance Auto or O'Reilly's and see what they charge for them. Just fair warning, my 95 Wrangler now has 221,000 miles on it and it runs great!! But, at around 120,000 I had to have the transmission and the clutch replaced. Apparently, they wear out around then, as some of my other friends that have them or had them had told me. And yes, part of this all started with the 5th gear syncronizer and reverse. I had totally lost 5th gear before I had the tranny replaced. The cost of replacing the transmission, clutch, changing the u-joints( all four of them), repacking the front gear box, and cleaning and replacing the differential was $1,950 and change. This was done by Certified Transmissions. Don't know if you have one where you're at, but my advice would be to find one. They quoted me $1875 for everything but the u-joints. After they had my Jeep inside and took the drive shafts off, they said that one u-joint had to be replaced, but I had them replace all of them just to be safe. That's why it was a bit higher. They do absolutely the best work on tranny's!!! As to your other question, most places won't touch just fixing the 5th gear. When I inquired about my 5th gear and reverse being fixed, no one would do it. Reason being, small shavings from the 5th gear or reverse could have moved into other parts of the transmission and therefore, could cause problems anytime and these places weren't willing to take responsibility for that happening. So, be prepared to have the entire transmission rebuilt or get a reman unless you're doing it yourself.. Good Luck
  • tecman101tecman101 Member Posts: 4
    It has a 2.5 multi port fuel injection engine with 130K miles. If it sits for a while I can turn it over and it will start. It will go into a high idle for about 10 seconds and then just die. I cant restart it again at this point. When it does run for 10 seconds, it seems to be running fine. At one time I thought I heard some relay chattering but then checked all relays and they seemed fine. When I run diagnostics I get #12 and #54 for codes. I don't find code 12 in any libraries. Can someone give me advice please?
  • yjbobyjbob Member Posts: 56
    From the Service Manual:
    "12" = "Battery Disconnect" - Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles. I have this code often because I disconnect the battery when I change the oil. I don't think it is significant.
    "54" = "No cam synch signal at PCM" - No fuel synch (camshaft signal) detected during engine cranking. I have never had this code, but I think the motor would not run at all if this signal were not detected. I am not sure, though.
  • crackofnooncrackofnoon Member Posts: 2
    Is it easier to tap out broken engine mount bolts on the passenger side with the engine dropped down and working painfully underneath or just pull the engine out?
    It's barely attached just resting on the distributer housing. Any advice or help appreciated
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles