Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

03escape · November 2006

Hi. I wanted to know if anyone else has had problems with their Escape starting. It turns over just fine, but as I'm starting it then it just stops. There is that "fuel reset" button and then waited about 30 mins and then it starts just fine - but this has happened twice this week. What's the problem? I love my Escape - except for this problem. Any others? Suggestions?

nitrous93 · November 2006

I would first start with your fuel fileter, very easy to change on escapes. It sounds like you got some bad gas, if the fuel fileter change doesn't solve this then you will have to diagnose it thru the fuel delivery system, if it is a fuel delivery problem: net is the fuel injectors, fuel pump, pump relay switch... but i would just change the fileter first. Good luck

escapenut · November 2006

I probably am not the first by any stretch for the Escape, but I just turned over 100K on my '01 Escape V6 XLT. Things on the inside have gotten a little looser and more rattly, but it starts fine and runs fine for now. Major work done includes:
- 3 Front-brake jobs, w/2 change of rotors.
- 1 Rear brake job.
- Replaced tires twice (2) past originals.
- Replaced alternator once.
- PCM reflashed 3-times for software upgrades, once under
warranty.
- Replaced battery once.
- Sub-woofer replaced under warranty.
- EGR sensor replaced under recall.
- Transmission flushed three (3) times.
- Radiator flushed three (3) times.
- Power steering flushed two (2) times.
- Brake system flushed three (3) times.
Religious oil changes (Mobil 1 5W-30) every 4K miles.
Changed to synthetic (Mobil 1) transmission fluid at ~45K miles and flushed twice with it.
At this point everything seems to be in working order (knock on all the hard-plastic in the Escape). Would I do it over again ? Probably. I made the best choice possible and got a heck'uv a deal at the time. The choices in '01 were less numerous and appelaing at the time. Would I buy another Escape ? Depends... I'd have to be convinced that an '07 or the upcoming '08 next year is that much better. The choices have gotten a lot more numerous and more appealing. My next purchase will have to integrate gas-mileage more heavily into the total equation. I don' think Ford can squeeze too many more mpg's from the 3.0 Duratec. Currently I'm averaging 17.0 City/21-22 Hwy. no matter what I do to save gas.

Karen_S · November 2006

A local television station is looking to interview consumers who own a Ford Escape who might have corrosion issues in the interior of the vehicle. The current customer is saying that there is corrosion underneath the dash (near the glove box). Please send an e-mail to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Friday, November 10, 2006 by 2:00 PM PST/5:00 EST containing your daytime contact information.

bob_mcbob · November 2006

I have a 2005 Tribute with about 31000km (about 19000 miles) on it I'm taking in for regular service next week, and I'm not sure which issues are worth bringing up with the dealer. Of course, there's the regular creaking/groaning/crappy plastic panels/etc., but I think I will probably try some of the fixes mentioned here rather than attempting to get them to fix it. There's other stuff I'd consider more serious, and I'd like to know if any of this is "normal" for the Escape/Tribute.

First, I've noticed that the car shudders when I put it into and out of gear (shift, wait a couple of seconds, shudder). I'm not sure if this always happened, but I've read it could be a problem with the transmission.

Also, a couple of brake-related issues. I sometimes get a lot of groaning/shuddering from the brakes when applying them lightly to come to a stop or start up on an incline. For instance, backing out of the driveway with the brakes applied to control speed. It is much more pronounced when the car has been in the rain. Also, I've been doing a lot of highway driving the past few months, and I've noticed that when braking from high speed, I get vibration sort of like a very toned down version of the ABS system. Basically, high speed braking is not very smooth.

Well, I guess there are a few other minor things. In cold weather, the driver-side window makes horrible screeching noises when it's operated. I told them about it last time and they said they tightened some bolts inside, but it didn't seem to make much difference. The rear of the car often groans when you step out of the front -- it's caused by the parking brake, and they "fixed" it last time only to have it return after a couple of months. Also, the windshield defogger obviously misses fairly large areas of the window at the sides (you can see the blowing pattern). The Mazda dealer says this is "normal", but it means a good portion of the windshield is obscured all Winter! And finally, I've noticed that the bolts and metal fittings under the front seats have a lot of rust on them, as well as some spots on the windshield wiper base.

Sorry for the long post. Please bear with me and comment on any of these items, even if they don't scream "YOUR CAR IS ABOUT TO BLOW UP"

zoom_ute · November 2006

please post your engine/drivetrain configuration.
Your issues are common with lots of other car models, even high-end ones like Acura and BMW.

Idle vibration could be due to tranny, or to low idle speed, or a bad engine mount.

brake vibration/poor high speed braking: warped rotors or deposits on rotors due to pad compound. Aftermarket pads might solve it.

for noisy windows, try using a silicone spray lube in the window track (lower window part-way, spray track, then raise/lower to work it in) this will also solve any "slow windows" you might have.

check attachment of rear parking brake cable. spray silicone lube onto spring perches.

for misted windows and rust, inspect to see if you have a cabin water leak, consider using a de-essicant product and/or removing the floor mats to dry them out in the winter if you track in lots of snow. Don't use the recirculate option, and check to see that it it functioning properly (ie not stuck in recirculate). inspect AC drains to make sure condensation is not entering the cabin. inspect climate control system air inlet/cowling to make sure water is not entering the cabin.

bob_mcbob · November 2006

Sorry, I completely forgot to post the model! It's the V6/AWD "GT" (i.e. with sunroof and fog lights).

I don't think I am getting any idle vibration. For the transmission, I didn't describe it correctly. It happens when shifting INTO gear and BETWEEN gears, but not when shifting into park. When I switch gears, there is an immediate shudder and another shudder a second or two later. Sometimes it is quite pronounced, and I heard a "ping" this morning. It is actually rather disconcerting, especially given the poor track record of the Escape/Tribute transmission.

I will definitely have them check the brakes. I don't have any trouble with braking distance or performance, it's just the noise and vibration.

I will try the silicone spray for the window. It is only the driver side window, and only when it is moved up or down in cold weather. It's obviously rubbing on something internally, which produces an incredibly loud and piercing screeching noise.

I don't know what causes the parking brake groaning, but the parking brake itself works fine. They seemed to be aware of the issue at the dealership last time we mentioned it, and whatever they did "fixed" it temporarily.

As for the window fogging, pretty much all cars here get fogged up a lot in the Winter, so it's not exactly a surprise. The issue is that the defogger doesn't cover the sides of the windshield. The dealer says it's adjusted to factory specs and that we should basically just live with it. I was thinking of trying an anti-fog product mentioned here, but I can't remember the name (Rain-X?).

Rust is not uncommon here because of humidity in the Summer, but I would expect metal fittings to last a little longer than this. I noticed it about 8 months after we got the Tribute. Our other car ('96 Escort) has rust on the same parts (the seat bolts and such underneath). Yay Ford...

Anyway, I really appreciate your reply, and I hope this will help with further clarification. Thanks!

mschmal · November 2006

I have seen new Fords with rusted components underneath the power seats. Apparently this is not actual rust, but something caused by lubrication that goes on the power seats. If both front seats are not power, check under the non power seat.

formulavee · November 2006

My wife has a 2004 Escape. When she releases the hand brake, the light stays illuminated. Is there a switch in the handle or anything like that to check? I don't want to pay a dealer to figure out a problem like this, yet my wife insists that it has to be fixed.

tveilleux · November 2006

I recently had the IAC valve on my 2002 V6 replaced for something similar. This is something you can do yourself since it right on top of the engine by the air intake hose.

explorerx4 · November 2006

it is not still under warranty? check your owner's manual for why the light is on. it may not be the emergency brake.

haragan · December 2006

I bought a new convenience 06' Mariner AWD and it makes this noise even when parked. It is like a grinding noise that transfer some vibration to the sterring wheel. I hear it all the time during acceleration, slowing down and when pressing the gas pedal when parked. I've taken it in to the dealership twice and they tell me that they've compared it to other similar models and they all make this noise.

It is becoming very irritating, specially for new car. Does anyone have any similar experiences with a new Mariner, Escape or Tribute?

bdyment · December 2006

Well, overall we are very pleased with our 2007 Limited. One complaint--the hardest, unpadded armrest-- in the recent history of auto design. I have some left elbow problems and this armrest sure doesn't help.

Bruce

doriansgirl · December 2006

I have a 2002 ford escape with 143000 miles. I have noticed recently that when I go over a bump or pothole in the road, I get a noise that's a cross between knocking and creaking. It's in the front axle, and I believe it to be mainly on the passenger side although it could possibly be accross the front. I'd like to know if anyone else has had these issues, and what it ended up being. I just replaced the tires so I don't want to drop a load of money to not fix it. Also, my front driver side speaker has blown. I never had this problem in my Camry. Anyone else experience this? Thanks!!

jonj1 · December 2006

when looking at the rotors there should be clips that look like washers on 2 of the wheel studs. remove these however you can. I usually cut them off with a pair of dikes(pliers). then if the rotors are stock on the hub still take a hammer and hit the rotor a few hard hits between the wheel studs. That should loosen them up. Do to the differant kinds of metal used there is often a type of electrolysis that forms almost welding them to the hub. it usually only take 2 or 3 good hits on the hub face of the rotor to free them up.

sparkyd · December 2006

Just happened across this site looking for a brake booster. I am glad to hear other people are having trouble with the seats in there Ford Escape. I had my 2005 about 5 or 6 months and my rear seat started fraying. At that time no one had ever sat in my back seat. I now have a dog I take with me in the back seat, however they frayed long before I got her. Like everyone is saying this will kill my trade in value. I went to the dealer with the problem and told them I knew upholstary was not covered under warranty but would they please look at it. They did and said they have a company that would look at it and maybe the dealership would warranty it after the company looked at it. Problem was that the company had shut down for 2 weeks for their daughters wedding. That was last year and like others due to my working schedule I never got to make an appointment to have them check it out. Now I am almost embarrased to ask. Maybe with copies of these messages in hand I will go to the dealer and ask again.

Thanks

Sparkyd

jasonlife · December 2006

I bought 2001 3.0 tribute last summer and there was no problem until the summer was over. I'm in cold area, Calgary Canada, by the way.

I'd noticed rough idle when cold start in the morning around October and it's getting worse(sometime stall) as the tempature went down. Once the engine tempature goes up to normal, no more rough idle.

I've also noticed that if I use "block heater" during the very cold days, rough idle is not so bad.

Finally, I got the engine check light on, so replaced spark plug, fuel filter, air filter, IAC valve and ECT senor by myself. Sadly, I still have the rough idle in the morning.

Are there anything I can do before I go to mechanic or dealer?

Please help....

cy01esc · December 2006

I am having the exact same problem with my '01 3.0l Escape.
As soon as the temp gets into the 30's (F) the idle goes to hell in the morning. Once it's warmed up it's fine.

I replaced the plugs about 2 weeks ago, but that did nothing. I haven't had the check engine light come on, yet, but I am dreading the morning it does.

I have also run a small heater (blowing warm air under the engine compartment) overnight and this does seem to help.

Wish I knew something to be of help to you. I'm just hoping someone out there has some idea of what our vehicles problems are.

mt2005 · December 2006

Hello,

I've been trying to figure out how to adjust the parking brake on my 2005 Tribute. I assume there is a screw to adjust under the center console. The problem I have is I'm having a difficult time trying to get the console off. Being that it's made out of plastic, I don't want to try and force it too much.

Thanks for any help.

chitown777 · December 2006

Underneath your car there is a row bar, I believe it's called. They are held by 2 clamps that have like a rubber insulation so that the clam and the bar don't grind. After years the rubber really dries out. It's best to change the 2 clamps. I lubricated them and the sound goes a ways for about a week or 2.

rwall10597 · December 2006

I had my master cylinder right before Thanksgiving. My brake warning light came on again the other day. I took it by the shop and they said the master cylinder was bad again. Luckily the second replacement won't cost me anything, but I'm concerned. The person at the shop indicated that Escapes tend to have trouble with replacement master cylinders, and they often take a few tries.

Has anyone else experienced this? Could it be a problem with the shop that I use?

schimms · December 2006

My 2005 Escape had it's fraying front seat covers replaced at 5000 miles. I now have 50,000 miles and the rear seats need to be replaced and the front ones could be replced again. Today I asked the service writer about it and they said they've never heard of any problems with the fabric seats. I am not surprised to hear that I am not alone. Are there more people with these seat problems?

tcline · December 2006

With the parking brake lever in the down position, look on the left side of it. There is a rubber strip between the lever and the plastic housing, peak down between the lever and the housing and you will see a screw head. I think its a 10mm. Use a deep socket to adjust it.

tcline · December 2006

Every now and again the stereo display will fade out/go dark and then come back on after a minute or so. I haven't played with it so I dont think it could be a loose wire or connection. Any ideas? Thanks

casche · January 2007

I also have a 2001 3.0 Tribute that is experiencing the same problem. When I start it in the morning it will barely idle and want to die. This is only on very cold days. After it warms up it is fine. I recently took it to a local mechanic and it was diagnosed with an upper intake leaking vacuum...I believe a plenum gasket. I am having the dealer where I bought this take a look at it next week, so I can take advantage of the extra mechanical warranty coverage I bought with this vehicle. I hope this helps...

ironheadbro · January 2007

Does anyone at the dealership know the "fix" for a transmission that "shudders" when shifting from 1st to 2nd running between 40-45 mpg at approx. 1500-2000 rpm?? I have a 2003 Tribute that exhibits this problem. I have the extended 100,000 mile warranty with about 70,000 miles currently on the vehicle. This problem is not consistent. Dealerships says bring it in and they will have a look (for a $100 charge for looking) If the problem happens when they are doing the test drive, I just have to pay my deductible and they will "fix-it" (What ever that means) If they can't reproduce the problem,,,,,,I'm out the $100 bucks and down the road I go.

bdyment · January 2007

What engine and transmission combination do you have?

You say the transmission shudders from 1st to 2nd between 40 and 45 mph. Don't you mean it shifts from 3rd to 4th at that speed range? If it is at 40+ you are winding the engine way too far for 1st to 2nd. What is probably happening is the torque converter is locking up at that speed range or you have just gone into overdrive--4th and the engine has lugged momentarily. I don't think it is serious.

lesliesoup · January 2007

I am having the exact same problem. I just had my second master cylinder replaced. Have you found out any more information, is it the shop or the Escape?

nitrous93 · January 2007

Hello.
Who ever you are taking your escape to, whether it be a Mom and pop auto repair or a dealership, you might want to change repair shops. i see this all the time, you might get a bad master cylinder once in a while, but to hear your repair shop saying, this happens to all escapes, and it usually takes a couple of times to get it right. :P BALONY!!! There was air in the Brake System, and he was too lazy to purge the System. That is why the Master Cylinder went bad. Please take it somewhere else. I hope this cleared up anything.

fordgirl5 · January 2007

I have replaced my master cylinder on my 01 escape for the third time since September 06. The first two were rebuilds, and both were leaking into the brake booster. The third one is brand new so hopefully this will be the cure. It was a defect in the rebuilds so they tell me...New run about $100 more than rebuilds.

fordgirl5 · January 2007

Check your master cylinder...same problem with my 01...E- light on. My master cylinder was leaking brake fluid into the brake booster. Had Master cylinder replaced three times in 4 months, first two were rebuilds, third is brand new...opt for new, the first time. E brake light comes on for a few different problems.

alandale · January 2007

Have 2004 Tribute ES v-6, 53,000 miles, only dealer maintained, all service completed, truck is perfect. 2 months ago (right after a front brake job/oil change) started to smell a mildew order from the vents when a/c first turned on. 6 days ago a/c stopped working (thats a problem being in Florida). Dealer said condenser is leaking/cracked that is why a/c is not working (ford quality part). Problem, condenser is behind the dash by the firewall, have to remove the entire dash. $1200 bucks to fix. Complained to dealer said will split it (definitely a manufacture defect!). Truck is brand new looking and drives like it is brand new, just out of warranty. Hopefully Mazda Corp. will cover the other half. :mad:

rcinmd · January 2007

I am having an issue with my '05 Tribute, 2.3 liter 4 cyl, 5 speed stick, regarding high engine speed following startup in cold temperatures.
After 3 'attempts' to address the issue by what now appears to be an incompetent service department at the Hagerstown, Maryland dealer, I am seeking any input I might obtain here on this forum

Note that this issue only appeared this past Fall, when temps began to drop. I did not have any problems during the first two winters I had the vehicle.

Here is what is going on...When I start up in the morning, or when heading home for lunch, as I shift from first to second, the rpms will jump to between 2500 and 3000. The same thing occurs in subsequent shifts, for perhaps 30 seconds or a bit longer. As soon as I depress the clutch, the engine races that high. The problem is clearly temperature-related, since it did not occur this past December in Florida. But the first morning back home, it did.

The dealership actually duplicated the problem, wonder of wonders, yet when they called Mazda USA, they claim they were told this is completely normal, which is of course a bunch of bull. When I asked if every Tribute, Escape, Mazda3, Mazda6, Ranger, Fusion, etc, etc did the same thing, I was told that they had been told by Mazda that it was something the 05 models did. Talk about pulling that out of his backside (note, I am being very euphemistic).

Any ideas? The dealer said there is no IAC valve on the 2.3, but I have not confirmed that. All I know is, I have never owned a fuel injected vehicle that did anything like this, and it is certainly not normal operation.

bob_mcbob · January 2007

Last time my dad was at the gas station, the pump auto shut-off kept triggering even though there was barely anything in the tank. I went to fill up this morning, and right after I started pumping, gas came shooting out of the tank all over the place. The only way I could avoid triggering the auto shut-off was to pump so slowly it took me 15 minutes to fill the tank. Even then it came back out two more times (let's just say my jeans don't smell so hot). I tried another pump, as well as inserting the nozzle from different angles, but it kept happening. I seem to recall reading a few complaints about this sort of thing before we got the Tribute, but I don't know what the fix was. So what's going on?

robcor151 · January 2007

My 2001 Tribute DX 4Cyl 5 Sp AWD is very hard to shift up or down.Over the past year or so its gotten worse.Shifter cables seem too slide easily as does the shifter itself.Could a bad clutch slave or master cylinder be the reason? It does not look like they are leaking.Anybody out there have a similar problem or anybody got any advice.I'd sure appreciate it before the tranny shop starts replacing parts!

ironheadbro · January 2007

I have an automatic trans and yes the "shuddering" occurs going from 2nd to 3rd gear.

dan101 · January 2007

I have a 2001 escape and it was shuddering at between 40-50 mph also. I took it to the dealer an it was a pin in the computer cost about $200.00 to fix. The part was roughly $12.00 the rest labor charges took about 30 minutes to fix.....

mario10 · January 2007

What is the part name?

genome1 · January 2007

I purchased a new 2 wheel drive 2005 Tribute 9 months ago. It now has about 14,000 km. An intermittent problem began 2 weeks ago. During braking to a stop (city driving, no ice or rough pavement), there is sudden resistance of the brake pedal combined with the sound of some sort of pump from the rear of the car PLUS a distinct acceleration forward; ie it feels as if the car is being pushed forward. Further pressure on the brakes does nothing. In order to stop the car from moving forward, I have to release the brake (which causes the car to surge forward) and immediately hit the brake pedal, which is now working properly and stops the car. The feeling of acceleration and the sound of the "pump" stops as soon as I release the brake and then hit it again. Since this has only happened when I'm braking behind a stopped car, I don't have time to check whether the tachometer is racing; I'm too concerned about rear-ending the vehicle ahead. The dealer has driven the car for a week and has not experienced the problem. He says the ABS system is working properly. I have never been in a situation where ABS has activated. My theories: (i) the ABS system is malfunctioning. Rather than shuddering the car to a stop with its intermittent braking, the ABS is seizing up.
(ii) the faulty accelerator cable problem that resulted in a 2004 Tribute recall exists in my 2005.
However, if the engine were revving, I would hear it from the front of the vehicle. The noise I hear that accompanies the acceleration comes from the rear and sounds like some sort of pump, not like the engine at all. I'm not crazy; my adult daughter was in the car with me once when it happened!

genome1 · January 2007

Have a look at my post 3530. Is this the same problem?

tveilleux · January 2007

I have had this problem for years on my 2002 4WD. I recently read (on this or perhaps another forum) that the problem can be cleared up with a transmission flush. I did this a month ago and the problem has not surfaced since.

The scheduled transmission fluid change is more often than what I am used to (every 25,000 miles?). However, I waited until about 50,000 to do the work, which is more in line with my previous vehicles.

ironheadbro · January 2007

Never thought that flushing a trans would clear up this problem. I'll give it a try.

stever · January 2007

Fluid change, flush or power flush?

I keep hear two sides to the power flush argument, but it's worth considering the pros and cons. Here's my usual example of the con:

amigo_john, "Isuzu Trooper" #8070, 30 Jun 2003 6:46 am

maltb · February 2007

I wouldn't reccomend flushing the transaxle. Flushing should really only be done on the cooler lines. Just drain and replace fluid in the transaxle.

mschmal · February 2007

According to www.fleet.ford.com, the 2002 Ford Escape 4x4 with the 6 cylinder gets a trans. fluid change very 150,000 miles! This is what is called a sealed for life trans.

I have heard horror stories from people trying to flush the trans at non dealerships as its supposedly not easy to do.

Mark.

socomfire · February 2007

I own a 05 Tribute, I have found many gas stations where I have to manually hold the nozzle in at strange angles and fill slower then normal to keep from shut-off triggering. It's not just you, it happens to me all the time

bob_mcbob · February 2007

Yeah, I definitely read reports of filling problems before we got the car, so I made sure ours was okay right after we got it. I haven't been able to take it in yet because our second car ('96 Ford Escort wagon) decided to pack it in the other day. We're getting by on quarter tanks because it's too cold to stand out there and do more (-30C windchill here all weekend)! A lot of gas station pumps won't even go slowly enough to get gas into the tank. You can hear it backing up and slowly coming back up the spout before it sprays out.

stormfront · February 2007

I'm seriously considering purchasing a 2005 mazda tribute GT (fully loaded v6) but i'm now feeling a little skeptical after reading some of the posts within this thread....

Should I continue with the mazda purchase? or go with a 2003 toyota highlander instead. Which I found for the same price.

2005 mazda tribute GT(v6) 39,000km
or
2003 toyota highlander base 78,000km

I've researched the heck out of these two vehicles and am most concerned with build quality and reliability.

any insights would be much appreciated.

bdyment · February 2007

What is the asking price of each vehicle? Probably asking more for the 2003 Highlander than the 2005 Tribute. We have owned A Ford Escape and 2004 Highlander V6. Both are reliable. I actually enjoy the Escape more. Smoother, better transmission. Of course the Highlander had a few more luxury features.

tveilleux · February 2007

Get on the Highlander forum via Edmunds and you will see as many post/problems with it as you see for the Tribute. The people who typically post on these forums are those with problems, not those who get on to say they are having no problems. The Edmunds Editors and Consumers ratings are nearly the same for both vehicles. For the same price I would go with the vehicle with 2 years less wear and tear. I have a 2002 4WD with all the bells and whistles and have had only a few problems (most have been the typical minor ones found on this forum) that were taken care of inexpensively. Overall I am very pleased with the vehicle, my wife likes it as well. It still looks and rides almost like new after 60,000 miles.

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