Toyota Land Cruiser

wishnhigh1 · September 2002

The Baby Land Cruiser is here!

The 2003 4 runner offers a new 240 horse/283 ft.lb V6 as standard, and the 4.7 liter(with 5 speed auto) as an option, and comes with downhill assist, uphill start assist, electronic brake force distribution, optional rear air suspension, torsen center differential with a full lock mode, and full time 4 wheel drive on the V8 model.

Finally, a less expensive and smaller land cruiser!!

payson · September 2002

Thanks for the advice.

The Land Cruiser is still at the dealer. They drove it for 3 days before they could get it to "act up". Without looking at the engine, they recommend a new transmission @ $5700. We are going to pick it up, and will try a few other things before resorting to that. We don't really trust this dealer, as he is not really a Toyota dealer, but primarily sells Chevrolet, and some Toyotas. Unfortunately we have to drive at least 2 hours to get to a large city. Can anyone recommend a dealer with a good service department in South Georgia, or North Florida?

idahodoug · September 2002

I've been at the LandCruiser thing for a long time, and even Toyota dealers know little about the Cruiser. Nothing against Toyota's excellent dealer body, but it has always been a limited production vehicle, and their rugged construction means they're rarely in for major work. You're really asking for a hosing at a dealer like you described - he's clueless.

For $5700, I'll fly both you and your wife to Cancun for a week, pay for my flight to your house, spend 2 hours with your Cruiser and STILL have enough left over for a nice 2 week vacation for my family over Christmas. You're talking about a $4 can of throttle body spray, an old toothbrush, a $3 bottle of liquid graphite, $12 worth of tranny fluid quarts, a piece of duct tape if that tube I mentioned is cracked, and a pair of wrenches and socket set.

If you've changed the tranny fluid at least once every 50,000 miles and the truck has not been abused beyond belief then your A442F transmission is just fine. You simply cannot kill it. That transmission was only used in '93 and '94 and was taken from a 30,000lb GVW city bus Toyota builds. It is a full-on commercial duty transmission that is quite literally 5 times as heavy as it needs to be in your 6000lb truck. So don't let anyone tell you the tranny's shot. In '95, Toyota beefed up another transmission, which replaced this behemoth until the 80 series ended. It was the A343, I believe.

My '93 has towed an overweight boat trailer all over the US, has 120,000 on it and shifts today just like it did the day I drove it off the showroom. It's always been a little clunky as that massive gearbox tries to masquerade as a smooth light duty passenger vehicle transmission and it often betrays its heritage.

I could go on, but you get the idea. Where will I be flying to, by the way?

IdahoDoug

olizer · September 2002

In regard to your lock problem - I've had a few alarms installed in my cars in the past. When ever I have a problem with one, after checking the "clicker" battery, I climb under the dash and check the after market connections. I have found that the "factory trained" alarm installers either wrap the connections together with tape or sometimes crimp them - but horribly. In other words check the wiring and ground.

lpc68 · September 2002

Is the 91 LC transmission as solid as the 93 and 94 that you mention?

thanks

idahodoug · September 2002

The 91-92 was an A440 according to a friend on another Cruiser list. I know less about it, but something about Toyota numerical systems. I suspect the A440 was the same basic H.D. transmission as the A442, reflecting its modification for the 4.5L engine that replaced the 4.0 starting in '93.

So, yes it is as solid.

IdahoDoug

bigfish3 · September 2002

I am considering purchasing my first Land Cruiser. My budget is within a 1999 or 2000. The question is, is the electronic brake force distribution, active traction control, and vehicle skid control worth going to the 2000. I have found a nice 1999 but am concerned about not getting the 2000 improvements. Or, are these really necessary? Any help on this decision would be greatly appreciated.

bigfish3 · September 2002

Can anyone help me with what I should pay over wholesale for a "good condition" '99 or '00 Land Cruiser with average mileage. I am a first time buyer and don't want to over pay but am willing to pay fair market value, whatever that is. Any help would be appreciated.

cliffy1 · September 2002

2000 was the first year that the Active-Trac system came out. I think it is well worth it. You might want to read up on this at the topic "Toyota 4WD Systems Explained" here in the SUV conference.

larrs · September 2002

Help please! My LX450 with 98K miles has the check engine light on. The Lexus dealer mechanic has diagnosed "defective convertors...incorrect convertor flow , need to replace convertors".
There are (2) convertors one at a cost of $400 and the other at $1400 ! ouch! Could it be something else ? Maybe (1) of the convertors not both ? An oxygen sensor ?

padevlin · September 2002

Have noticed upon inspection that Land Cruisers tires wear very unevenly. The outside edges of the tires seem to wear out about 2x quicker than the inside edges. Has anyone else noticed this and what could be the cause?

wishnhigh1 · September 2002

idahodoug · September 2002

What state are you in? Also, I'd ignore this ludicrous fix. Take it to a Toyota dealer and ask them what the error code is on the vehicle's OBD II diagnostic output. Many good independent mechanics also can tell you this. Replace BOTH cats? What a crock - they both went bad on the same day? Yeeesh.

Find out from another source what the code is without telling them what the other dealer says. If a cat is having problems, the best thing you could do is put a tank of premium Chevron gas in it and go for a 250 mile freeway drive to let the cats burn themselves clean again.....

As for tire wear, I have owned 3 LandCruisers and they were all incredibly easy on tires since they're all full time 4WD (power is distributed equally to all tires all the time). If the outside edges are worn, that would indicate aggressive driving and low tire pressures.

IdahoDoug

payson · September 2002

Thanks for the support, and advice. We are now located in Douglas,GA. We relocated from Utah a year ago. We picked up the cruiser on sat. My husband will be spending some "quality time" with it next week when he returns from his trip.

Olizer-Thanks also for the advice on the door locks, we will try it.

erinsquared · September 2002

Because of the expense of replacing the catalytic converters, definitely get the dealer to verify this being the problem by reading the OBDII codes as recommended by Idahodoug. If the converters need replacing, another alternative to using factory parts is to have a reputable muffler shop build you a custom replacement exhaust system. A good shop can build you an excellent system at a fraction of the cost of the factory parts.

ravick · September 2002

Padevlin, the most obvious cause is your alignment. The tires on my 200 LC, which I try to rotate every 5000 miles, were wearing out pretty evenly. At about 47K miles, I noticed uneven wear (excessive on outside) on the front passenger side tire. Interestingly, it turned out that the Toe on my driver side tire was off. The Camber and Caster were fine on both sides.

idahodoug · September 2002

I asked because California vehicles have a longer emission warranty. I don't buy this at all. I'm in an international Cruiser club for 91-97 models (80 series) and I have never heard of a cat needing replacement. Most club members have over 150,000 hard miles, a couple dozen over 200k and a few over 300k. Take it on a road trip afternoon. Then disconnect the battery or 30 minutes to reset the engine light.

IdahoDoug

larrs · September 2002

IdahoDoug/erinsquared,

Thanks for help. I reside in Illinois.When the light first started coming on I would disconnect the battery and imeddiately reconnect.The light would stay off for up to 200 miles but gradually would stay off for shorter and shorter number of miles. What does leaving it disconnected for 30 minutes do? Also..I'm not aware of Chevrons in the area.What about premium Mobil or Citgo? I have been using lowest grade...could that be contributing to the problem?
In the end if I go the custom exaust replacement route do I have to be concerned with the oxygen sensors functioning properly with cats that are not factory?

joeeblow1 · September 2002

A custom exhaust will net you nothing but a lighter wallet. The OEM exhaust will more than likely last the life of the vehicle. Aftermarket cats are available for much less money should you decide to replace them.

idahodoug · September 2002

If you've been putting crap gas in it since new, that would explain some crudding of the cats and oxygen sensors. If it's used mainly around town, then even more crudding. If you can't find a Chevron, then go to an auto parts store and purchase some Chevron Techron Concentrate (not just Techron). Put it in the tank and also do a long highway drive soon to help the cats burn themselves clean - that's the way they are designed to work. Don't use crap gas all the time - supplement a tank of premium national brand every 3rd tank or so.

IdahoDoug

stever · September 2002

I like Techron too (about the only additive I think isn't snake oil). I get mine in the gas like Idahodoug, and I think my throttle body stays cleaner longer than the same rig that other folks drive. ymmv.

Steve
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erinsquared · October 2002

Does the 4.7L engine on the Landcruiser have a timing belt or timing chain? What are the major services involved in a vehicle 1998-up LC with around 60k miles, 100k miles?

As for fuel mixtures, a friend of my is a chemical engineer in the oil industry with direct experience in this area lauded the merits of Techron in Chevron gas. Shell uses a similar formulation but in smaller concentrations in their gas - so they are a good second choice. Running a tank of premium (higher concentrations of additives) of either one should help keep your engine running clean.

cliffy1 · October 2002

I agree that this stuff is not snake oil. In fact, it is the same chemicals that Yammaha requires as an additive in its outboard motors. It is called Ring Free and prevents carbon build-up on the piston rings of a 2 stroke engine. I'm sure it serves much the same function in a 4 stroke.

cliffy1 · October 2002

mk85 · October 2002

I need some advice. I have a 97' LX450. When coming to a complete stop I feel a thump from the front end. This also happens when I release the brakes from a complete stop and press on the gas. What could it be struts???

joeeblow1 · October 2002

There are no struts on your rig. More than likely it's slop in the drivetrain from the 3 differentials. Each fulltime 80 has it to an extent.

Check the u-joints in the driveshafts for slop; otherwise, in the diffs you'll go.

lpc68 · October 2002

joeblow,

i've got that slop in my drivetrain ('91)

would you expand on your response to mk85? what could it be re the ujoints? and how would one fix them? what might have to be done to the diffs? and how extensive of a job is it?

thanks

idahodoug · October 2002

The 80 is known for having a bit of normal drivetrain slack that behaves as described. As Joe mentioned, some slack commonly appears in the front and rear drive shaft joints if they've not been properly greased (3 grease fittings on each shaft). Sometimes simply filling them with grease removes the problem. Otherwise, replacement of the cups on the joints is the fix.

If while under the truck in N on a level surface you cannot feel any rotational slack in the drive shaft (you'll also feel normal slack in the diff), then it could be the slack in the diff. This is normal and the cost to make it tight again is very high. It is from simply not changing the oil in the differentials on a regular basis.

The final place that slack manifests itself is the drive plates at the axle tips. The tip of the axle is splined and terminates into a matching splined hole visiblel with the wheel center cap removed, followed by the small grease cup. If it has been assembled without grease in these splines, fast wear and slack occurs.

None of these are more than an annoyance, however. This is a big, tough vehicle with a lot of extra metal in each moving part. So just get the stuff greased and change the fluids and keep going.

IdahoDoug

mk85 · October 2002

If i am driving and shift from drive to neutral and then come to a complete stop i do not feel the thump. So i am thinking it is the driveshaft since it is not engaged when it is in neutral. I have changed the differential fluid at 30,000 miles and just now again at 70,000 miles.

joeeblow1 · October 2002

That's not a proper test for driveshaft u-joints. I would install the center diff lock switch, and use it to isolate the thump. Lock center diff, remove front driveshaft, etc.

anleva · October 2002

I am thinking of buying a used 99/00 LC. Does it require Premium Fuel? What octane?

Thanks,

Andy

mk85 · October 2002

joe blow I do not have the center lock option on my LX450.

joeeblow1 · October 2002

I know. The switch is available from the dealer, and you can install it pretty easily. Details on Christo Slee's website (www.sleeoffroad.com).

seanslx450 · October 2002

mk85, I just installed the centre diff lock switch on my LX450. I got the switch from slee offroad. The install proceedure on slee is bang on except that the switch needs to go into the slot where the security alarm is located. The wiring harness for the diff lock switch is not long enough to reach the empty lower spaces. Most LCs don't have the security alarm so that upper space is available for them. Simply move the security alarm to the empty space below and to the left of the heater/AC controls. Do not take the wires apart on the alarm, just give a slight twist to the light and the sensor and pull them from the plate, put the security plate in the new space and reinstall the security light and sensor onto the plate. It is a very simple procedure and took about 20min. While you are at it, you may as well get the cup holder that goes into the cubby hole. It is also available at sleeoffroad or at your toyota dealer as it is a toyota part as well.
Regards,
Sean.

joeeblow1 · October 2002

Sean, I guess the PO must have ordered the extra long wiring loom option as I was able to install the center diff lock switch in one of the lower slots in my rig.

erinsquared · October 2002

I've often wondered this too and did a little research on my own. For gas hogs like these, a 20 cents/gallon difference could make a big difference on the wallet. The Sequoia is rated for 87 octane and the LC/Lx470 is rated for 91+ octane. These are basically the same engine: the same compression ratio, same mechanicals, hauling around the same load. The only published difference I can see is that the Sequoia has a slightly higher HP rating. This may be through fuel/ignition computer differences or an improved exhaust or just strictly marketing figures. My guess is that 87 octane may work for light duty around town cruising or highway cruising. Somebody could try it and listen for engine knock. For medium to heavy duty applications, the use of 91+ octane fuel would be best. I don't own one, so I can't try this out myself.
Does anyone use 87 octane in their LC/Lx470 in this group and experience engine knock?

joeeblow1 · October 2002

You won't notice engine knock as the ECU will simply retard the timing to compensate for the reduced octane. You will probably notice the power loss though.

hicaira · October 2002

Just what joeeblow said. We notice less power with lower octane gas. Use mid grade usually in ours but use premium when it is fully loaded. The power loss is real noticable in Winter with the lower grades. I think the Winter gas formula (in So. Cal) might have something to do with that.

Causes no harm to experiment with different grades as long as the gas you use has a detergent (like Techron (sp?)) in it. Premium fuels tend to have a higher detergent content.

HiC

idahodoug · October 2002

I lived in LA for 7 years and I don't think they use a winter formulation there with only a 10 degree average variation....

IdahoDoug

larrs · October 2002

Is there a good after market oil filter to use on an 96 LX450 ? With my 88 Camry I was always hearing..."make sure you use Toyotas filter because it has a check valve in it!".
Would like to get away from paying the premium price for Toyotas filter.
Greatly appreciate to hear someones advice / experience.

stever · October 2002

Larrs, this post (heck, the entire discussion) may be more info that you wanted:

bigorange30 "Oil Filters, whose is best, and Why?" Sep 29, 2002 7:24am

Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

idahodoug · October 2002

Stick with the Toyota OEM filter that was originally spec'd for the 4.5L straight six. Uncharacteristically, Toyota went to a generic single oil filter a year ago and it's not as good as previous filters. Call John Hocker in Parts at Sierra Toyota in AZ - Phoenix, I believe. I mail order them a dozen at a time from him and get a great price this way.

MK85 - Before bothering with anything else, particularly purchasing and installing a switch, simply have your drive shafts properly greased. This is often the problem on 80s - just dry shafts - and can also cause slight vibrations that the presence of grease will eliminate. Tell whoever does it that just a couple pumps with a hand grease gun on the grease fitting that feeds the slip joints is adequate. Over greasing these more than that can damage things by filling the slip joint grooves so that the shaft lengthens with a hydraulic effect, and this can do immediate damage if you hit a bump before the grease gets out of there.

The reason you didn't feel it in neutral is that what you feel drawing to a stop is the tranny downshifting and the shaft going from dragging to pushing the vehicle in the process with a high torque motor behind it. Clunk clunk. No big deal, actually.

IdahoDoug

wpiland1 · October 2002

Has anybody installed an upgraded DVD into the TLC Nav System? I am looking for the following: 1. A less expensive copy of the upgrade DVD, and 2. Hints on how to install it.
Thanks.

lpc68 · October 2002

i'm losing about a quart of oil every 3 months and it seems to be coming from the rear main seal. i can see that the valve cover gasket is seeping a bit of oil (it maybe more than a seep from the back of the cover but its hard to tell). it also seems to leak around the oil filter area and some hoses that i think are oil cooling hoses. several people have told me that i should fix each leak one at a time (as its not certain that the rear seal is the culprit) and see if each fix stops the leaking. i am thinking of starting with the valve cover gasket.

my question is this, if it is the rear seal and i fix the valve cover gasket, is there a danger that the increased pressure will accelerate the leaking in the rear seal? or any other seal or gasket for that matter? also, what exactly is adjusting the valve clearance and what benefit does that have? is it a difficult job?

does anyone have advise on how i should proceed?

thanks again in advance.

joeeblow1 · October 2002

Your '91 fj80 has the 3FE motor in which you adjust the valves like any other older, pushrod style motor (12mm wrench, screwdriver, and clearance check tool). I'm pretty sure the clearances are set with the motor cold, which means let it sit overnight before removing the throttle body and valve cover, etc.

Consider replacing the PCV valve if the rig is leaking from lots of places. I would replace everything that's leaking, but the rear main can be a real bear as the tranny and t-case are very heavy. Get some help if you're doing it yourself.

cliffy1 · October 2002

From what I have heard, the old I6 engine will almost always seep oil from the main seal. Loosing 1 quart over a 3 month period is actually not too bad. If all you are seeing is moisture at the seal, I wouldn't bother with fixing it but just keep an eye on the oil level. If (or when) it finally develops into a leak where oil is dripping from it, get it fixed now.

jblanch · October 2002

Here in Nebraska, used Land Cruisers don't come around very often for sale, especially in my small town. There is a '91 with 212k miles on it up for sale by a private seller. It seems to be in decent condition and I don't know if he has the 3rd row seats, as they aren't in the vehicle. TMV here on edmunds places its value at under $5000 max for a LC with all options and outstanding condition. The guy selling the LC is asking $9900!!!! Is he nuts?

I know most will recommend the '93 fzj80, but $5000 is right where I am looking for an older SUV, and this would be a dream to be able to get a TLC, as I have always wanted one. I don't know much about it other than the guy said it has a new exhaust system and new shocks. 212k miles seems really high, and I just put 240k on an old Cressida before it died, so the engine may not have much left in it. Could I reasonably offer $5000 for this vehicle?

tedplano · October 2002

What kind of situations might require locking the center differential on my landcruiser?

slik06 · October 2002

Any suggestions on fixing a 2000 LC in-dash six-disc player with "Error 3 ". The dealer wants $200 plus to "look at it". This error has popped up before an the unit has fixed itself but not this time. My Acura TL had the same problem. The Acura dealer blamed it on CD-R I burnt on my computer! Anybody have this problem??

idahodoug · October 2002

I wouldn't invest the amount of time and money into the rear main. I'd have the engine carefully steam cleaned after tightening the valve cover bolts, then put some BGK seal sweller (can't remember the product name) in the oil. This will often dramatically slow the leak by slightly swelling the seals and I've seen it work personally over a 6 month period. If you don't expect it to stop leaking in a day, then you'll be happy.

You may find the valve cover is the only leak and you'll dramatically reduce it for these small tasks.

On the price of the '91 with 212k - that's way high. And though the Cruiser is bulletproof, that's a lot of miles no matter how you cut it and I certainly wouldn't be giving top dollar for one like that when you can find one with half the miles.

IdahoDoug

Toyota Land Cruiser

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