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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • scoutguyscoutguy Member Posts: 3
    Ever since I owned an Escape the solenoid that opens and locks the lift gate has not worked correctly. If you tried to open the lift gate it would not open. By the time I arrived at the dealership it would open. Now it is out of warranty and they say tough luck. It will not open or lock unless I physically move it with my finger. I checked the voltage at the solenoid and it read one volt. If I check the fuse at the center console it reads 12 volts, as well as under the hood. Has anyone experienced this problem?
  • kam327kam327 Member Posts: 115
    Othello, thanks for finally responding to my 2 year old post.

    I just got an '08 Tribute V6 AWD last week and the engine vibrations coming through the accelerator pedal are similar to those on the '05 Tribute I was writing about back then. So I guess it's normal for this car.
  • kelbybabykelbybaby Member Posts: 1
    i have a '02 escape v6....just coming up on 92000 miles and have been told i need a new transmission.....hard shift into 4th gear and sometimes a rumble strip feeling
  • mikec15mikec15 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to open the rear lift gate when the electric lock is inoperable? :mad:
  • othelloothello Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to everyone who replied so far.

    The vibration in the gas pedal is present at all times. It gets a little worse under various circumstances. I'll check the tranny fluid level today, but I doubt I'll find it low.

    For some reason I find this kind of vibration particularly annoying in a new vehicle.

    For Kam327: Apparently you kept your '05 Tribute for 2 years and then traded it for the '08 Tribute. Did the '05 Tribute ever experience any drivetrain problems? I have to conclude you had a good experience with your vehicle despite the vibrations that you clearly noticed.

    At the moment I don't plan to keep this 08 Escape beyond the warrenty period, which since I only drive about 10,000 mi per year will be either 3 years or 5 years.

    I'd still like to know if any other Mariner/Escape/Tribute owners notice any vibration in the pedal. I've driven a lot of cars over the years, and only a few complete junkers have ever done this.
  • scoutguyscoutguy Member Posts: 3
    You have to unsnap the plastic cover on the bottom half of the gate, by the window. It will not come all the way off, because there are six screws on the bottom. You can't get to the screws until the gate is open. Reach your arm between the plastic cover and the gate. There is a solnoid there you will need to pull up or push down, I can't remember. Then the gate will open as normal. You can now remove the screws on the bottom to work on it.
  • funokafunoka Member Posts: 13
    This worked for me. I had the local guy on the corner do it vs. taking it to the dealer. Thanks!
  • funokafunoka Member Posts: 13
    This works for this problem! Any corner mechanic can do it, if you don't want to do it yourself, which I didn't.

    I am going on three weeks with no more starting problems!
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    Any help is appreciated. I have 73,000 miles, new brakes tires , rotors, etc.. front end. When I am driving and go over speed bumps or railroad tracks or turn the steering wheel back and forth real fast at around 15 MPH I get a popping noise in front end. I dont know if its either the Struts,some type of bushing or what. Someone please help as I am stumped on this one. :confuse:
  • toshusttoshust Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute and I had 170 000 kilomiters on it and the engine went on it. I have talked to a number of people and they say 2002-2004 Mazda Tributes have engine problems. I called Mazda Canada and the dealership where I get it serviced at and they said there is nothing they can do. I think its really disapointed that the Mazda Trubutes don't last that long. I well never buy another Mazda ever again if they can't even last 5 years. If anyone else has had this problem please let me know!
  • toshusttoshust Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute and I had 170 000 kilomiters on it and the engine went on it. I have talked to a number of people and they say 2002-2004 Mazda Tributes have engine problems. I called Mazda Canada and the dealership where I get it serviced at and they said there is nothing they can do. I think its really disapointed that the Mazda Trubutes don't last that long. I well never buy another Mazda ever again if they can't even last 5 years. If anyone else has had this problem please let me know! :lemon:
  • mk3richmondmk3richmond Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 Escape makes popping noises in the front end when stopped, or at low speeds and the wheel is rocked side to side. The steering also seems to bind and then release. I suspect the rack but am hoping it may be something that is not as costly. (I have 47,000 miles on this pos vehicle)
    Any similar experiences or ideas would be appreciated.
    Thank you
  • danblackclouddanblackcloud Member Posts: 1
    I just had my 2001 Escape in for the ABS recall. On the way to the dealership I heard a sound, like a wheel bearing going bad. When I got to the dealership I told them about the noise and they said they would check it out.... that it was probably nothing. They took it out for a test drive. When the Tech got back he told me that the 5 speed transmission had a catastrophic failure that the clutch had just disintegrated and Destroyed the center shaft, the two synchronizers and a grocery list of components and that I am looking at 2 to 6 thousand dollars in repairs if they can even get the parts. It seems Ford has discontinued this model transmission and getting replacement parts could be impossible. I just had the clutch replace 08-17-06. I don't beat the car in fact it is babied, because of be my first new car. Has anyone heard of this happening to other 4x4 5speed Transmissions in other Escapes or Tributes? :sick:
  • olcrankolcrank Member Posts: 5
    nitrous93 - You describe a popping? sound. Don't know for sure but my '01 and '03 escape both make noise up front on rough surfaces (large gravel or RR tracks) and the problem is....Front disc brake calipers. This may not be what you hear,but it's a very common noise, more like a baritone-can I say that?- rattle than a "popping". Brake calipers are located and suspended by pins and with age the pin/caliper clearance increases slightly causing the rattle. Could happen driving straight or only when turning on rough surfaces.IF this is the problem,lubing the pins may help (be sure not to lube the brake or rotor)or you can just put up w/it because unless the pin or caliper is cracked it's really not a problem.
  • ohfemailohfemail Member Posts: 3
    Two words....tie rods. Just had mine replaced on my '01. ;)
  • redmustangredmustang Member Posts: 1
    I PURCHASED A FORD ESCAPE 3 MONTHS AGO WITH LEATHER INTERIOR AND LOVED THE LEATHER SMELL UNTILL ABOUT 1 MONTH AGO WHEN A STRANGE SMELL STARTED TO ENTER INSIDE THE CABIN.IM SURE ITS ENTERING IN THE VENTS,IM CONSIDERING GETTING A CABIN AIR FILTER INSTALLED BUT IM NOT SURE IF THEY REALLY WORK?. IF ANYONE COULD HELP THAT WOULD BE GREAT.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds like AC mold - check out this thread:

    jwbet, "Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair" #1696, 7 Aug 2002 9:56 am

    Be sure to scroll down ten posts or so to Wwest's explanation too.
  • bayeclarkbayeclark Member Posts: 4
    A couple days ago, our 2002 Escape started running a little rough (basically idling or slow speeds) and the check engine light has come on. Does anyone know a likely cause? We have an appointment Monday to get it looked at.
  • ladyblueladyblue Member Posts: 326
    That happened to me with my PT Cruiser and it was the spark plugs and wires.

    Ladyblue
  • bayeclarkbayeclark Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, it turns out our problem was plug/coil
  • dave2461dave2461 Member Posts: 1
    I've been searching the archives for anything like my problem, and it seems I have a new one.

    First, it's an 01 LX V6 with 93K. I've had NO problems so far - oil, gas, and tires. GREAT vehicle. Oh, the driver's inside handle broke. 98 bucks at the dealer.

    Here's the problem. When I start the car, the O/D off light stays on. Switch in the end of the trans selector lever does nothing. Drove it on the highway yesterday, and the cruise control doesn't work. BUT - the cruise control off switch on the steering wheel now cycles the O/D on and off! Go figure! Dealer doesn't have a clue, and I can't locate the wiring diagram for the cruise/tranny/controls.

    Any guesses would be greatly appreciated! :mad:
  • willowoodfarmwillowoodfarm Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2008 Escape V6, 8900 miles, 120 days old, that stalls at speed. Sometimes you can restart in Neutral. We have been to the dealer 5 times and they finally are admitting they can make the problem happen. The first 3 times we had it in for this problem they thought we were crazy. Last week they said "we know what it is, "the fuel pump". Unless they got a bad fuel pump, they did not fix the problem. Now they say we know what is but are not sure what to do. I have absolutely no confidence in the dealer. He seems to be nothing more than a parts changer. We are located in a small town not in a metro area and just are not trusting these people. For example, the auto dimming rear view mirror does not work. They told us we did not have that option, but the window sticker says we do. They say the mechanic said we don't since he could not find any wires connected to the mirror. Guess what? There are wires connected to the mirror and the mirror works intermittantly. What should I do to get the problems corrected? They swear that they are talking to the zone office. This is the dealer I bought the Escape.
  • sylviahsylviah Member Posts: 7
    Need help - got a 2005 Escape and when the engine is cold the pedal gets stuck and ii is hard to give gas at start up. Once the engine gets warm that problem disappears. Any idea what the problem could be? Please help - thank's
  • sylviahsylviah Member Posts: 7
    I did it and the Accelerator pedal does not stick at all anymore. Thank you so much for that tip - however now my engine light is on and won't go off at all - everything sounds good - any advice on that one now? I appreciate it. :cry:
  • susie24susie24 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I just read your e-mail..I will paste what I wrote on the 2008 escape message board.It is presently being fixed. I'm still concerned of it happening again.

    Hi, I'm new here and I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right place but I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem. My son purchased a 2008 Limited Escape in August and has had problems with it since..At first it felt like there was no power and it was going to stall out .He brought it back to the dealers twice and they said the computer found no problem which was hard to believe.Recently, it has gotten worse where it did stall out on a busy intersection with our 6 month old grandson in the back seat.They almost got into an accident . My husband took it right back to the dealers and he almost got hit because it stalled on him..Finally, got a phone call from the service center saying there is a big problem the transmission slips into idle..(no kidding!!) My son doesn't want it back especially with a baby on board..Just wanted to know if anyone else here experienced this....Thanks, Sue
  • junebuggjunebugg Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Ford Escape and have been having similar problems. When I was stopped, and would push the accelerator to go, the car would sputter like it was going to stall and wasn't getting any gas. Sometimes it would finally go, other times it would stall out. I've almost gotten in to several accidents because of it. I took it to the Ford Dealer who told me it was the IAC motor- so I got that replaced. Took the car home and was still having the same problems. Took it back to the dealer, and this time I needed a new MAF motor- so they replaced that and it still didn't fix the car. I took it back again, and they told me they could not find anything that was wrong and would affect the drivability of my vehicle. I begged to differ. So, I took it somewhere else, and after keeping the Escape in the shop for a week, they were unable to duplicate the problem. I was still having that problem, when then the car decided to start stalling out when I would put it in reverse or drive. Took it back to the shop, paid to get another part replaced last Friday, it worked fine for a week, and then this weekend I was driving and it started sputtering again, died when shifting in to reverse or drive, and completly lost power and died when I was driving down the street! I got it restarted and made it home ok, but I'm done with Ford and my Escape. :lemon:
  • ren2ren2 Member Posts: 1
    If I may ask, what was the tip for the sticking accelerator pedal? I have an 06 Mazda Tribute that is doing the same thing. It does it when it is cool and once it gets warm seems fine. I asked my cousin to clean the throttle. He came back to me saying something about not being able to b/c of something being made out of plastic and it could melt it :/ Any tips greatly appreciated!
  • sylviahsylviah Member Posts: 7
    This is what we did to our Escape - took of the intake hose at the throttle body and sprayed throttle body cleaner inside the intake where the butterfly is. There was buildup on the butterfly and it is working great now. I sure hope that it will work for you :-)
  • cudearcudear Member Posts: 2
    I believe there is a recall on that. Year 2005, date 12/17/04..."Certain 2004-204 and 2001-2003 sport utility vehicles having rear liftgate components serviced with 2004 equivalent components fail to comply with the requirements of FMVSS no.206....etc"

    I literally just found this on about.com:auto repair. I was looking for a similar issue. My rear door works on and off with the weather, but never locks, alarm works, but hatch door is always openable, when it opens..sometimes it's like the handles broken on that too (see below). Sun roof switch replaced twice now needs a third...power steering control replaced, and temp control dial needs to be replaced and NOW my driver door outside handle does not open..one moment fine, next gone. I can open it from inside (what a pain in the NECK!) Anyone have any suggestions on this last problem? I have a 2001 escape. oh yea did I mention my airbag light flashes on and off..mostly on?
  • tribute_2002tribute_2002 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Tribute ES with 92K miles. For the most part I like it, but it is starting to become a nuisance.

    The last time I took my Tribute to the dealer (Phillips Mazda in Laguna Niguel, CA), to fix a recurring blinking airbag light (for the 4th time), they installed an ABS system modification/recall component that looks like an air tank in the engine compartment. After that a very loud squealing noise comes from the engine compartment at highway speeds when driving up steep grades or anytime I "press" the engine. It sounds sort of like a high pressure leak or a slipping belt.

    I've taken it back to the dealer 2x now. The first time they couldn't duplicate the noise, the second time I left it there a week while I was out of town. They said they were 99% sure it was the alternator & belt and told my wife it would be $900 to replace them!! I refused the work, of course, then they came up with a $300 figure for just the belt! I have a hard time believing the belt just started doing this after they installed that part.

    Anyone else heard of this problem. I'm taking it to my regular mechanic this week. Thanks!
  • butetbutet Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Mazda Tribute 2.3L that has been running fine up until about a week ago. I started hearing a slight engine knock. Engine is not low on oil, I don't find any leaks, and have no warning lights on. The knock is constant and does not get louder when you accelerate. The Tribute has 70000+ miles on it. I was wondering if anybody else has experienced this problem and what was wrong.
  • swdhc1swdhc1 Member Posts: 1
    2001 Mazda Tribute, I feel a vibration in the gas pedal while decelerating. I also hear the vibration, like a loud hum or could be discribes as a rough :confuse: whinning. The vibration is not extreme but noticeably different than normal. While accelerating the noise and pedal vibration goes away, or is at least far less. While stopped the noise and vibration are also not there, or is at least far less. I had suspected a hole in the exhaust but felt I would only hear not feel the problem. Any help would be appreciated.
  • good55good55 Member Posts: 2
    Anyone try to replace the plugs along the back of the V6 / 3L motor yet? The front 3 were the easiest I've ever done, but the back 3 are ridiculous. I think I have to actually remove the rear seats!! Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    To replace the back plugs on an escape/tribute 3.0 l v-6 you have to remove the upperintake, it is not as bad as everyone thinks, but you do have to also remove all the vacuum lines/hoses, the throttle cable that goes to the the t.body. You do not have to remove the throttle body. I have it down to a science, and only takes me about 45 minutes, The dealers want up to $400.00 to do this, The first time I did it, it took me about 3 hours, and since then I have done about 5 changes for my neigbors and I only charge $75.00 plus Parts. Do you live near Louisville, KY? Haha. Any more Info let me know!

    :shades:
  • bruce48127bruce48127 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Tribute 3.0L with 70K miles. I have been chasing a hard start problem for months.
    Sometimes it will fire within 1 or 2 seconds as it should, other times it will crank for 5 to 10 seconds half a dozen times (sometimes 8 or 10 times) before it fires. It runs great, just dosen't like to start about 25% of the time.
    First, yes I have replaced the IAC. As well as the battery, starter relay, cam sensor, and crank sensor. I have been to two Mazda dealers, one Ford dealer and two independents. Lots of guessing. There has never been any mil lights, codes or pending codes. It has been scanned at least a dozen times including koeo and koer.
    The Ford dealer thought it was in the PCM and said a Mazda dealer could replace it under warranty (the PCM is covered 8 years/80K miles). However the Mazda dealer replaced the relay, says it starts fine, then suggested "if the problem returns, replace the fuel pump". The problem never went away and the fuel pump tests fine. I believe none of them has fixed the problem, because they have not kept the vehicle long enough to verify the problem and then do a proper diagnosis.
    My gut feeling is that this is a contact/corrosion problem, because it is intermittent. This weekend I hope to work through Ford TSB 06-9-3 (connector terminal corrosion).
    Has anyone had a similar starting problem that was not the IAC?
    Bruce
  • grifftr3grifftr3 Member Posts: 1
    I was under the hood of our 2003 Escape v-6 auto and notice a vaccum hose that appears to be coming from the tranny area but is not connected on the top side.
    Flash-light and mirror in hand I looked and looked for a place to connect it but no luck.
    Any idea of where this is supposed to go (comes up just to left of battery when facing the engine from front.)

    thanks
    Griff
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    If you are talking about the one that is looped under the throttle body, that is a vent tube, it just vents air pressure from tranny it is perfectly normal . it does NOT hook to anything. Hope this helps!
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    You have either 1 or 2 problems. You need to replace Both the EGR "sniffer" and the EGR sensor. They are close to the firewall and come up from the exhaust close to your brake booster on the left side, but on the engine. they look like little flat electrical plug ins coming from a hard metal tube, with a rubber tube on them. The small one is around $30 and the big one is around $70. They get built up with carbon, just like your IAC and it wont let it idle right, and keeps dying. If you replace these unplug your battery for 15 minutes, so your computer can recalibrate the new parts, or else it will still do the same thing, and it still might, for about 30 to 50 miles. If that is not your problem, your second problem could be in the individual coil packs. There is no way of checking them correctly unless you are throwing a check engine light. They get hairline cracks in them and especially when it has been raining or very damp outside, is when they like to act up, because that moisture in the air finds its way to the cracks and breaks the electrical contact. They are expensive. $125.00 x 6. so your best bet is replace one, and if it still does it, put your old one back on and the new one on the next plug, etc... etc... process of elimination. Hopes this helps!
  • kalee71kalee71 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Tribute LX. I have a consistent problem in the cold weather. Car starts fine, idles normal for about 10 seconds the DROPS down and chugs along horribly. The entire car shakes and you hear all these noises under the hood and it feels as if it is going to stall or worse explode. The only resolution is to sit in car and keep foot on gas, to bring up RPMS. This (foot ongas)needs to be done UNTIL the car temperature gauge reads 1/4 pass the cold mark. After this i can ease off gas and only until the temp gauge reads normal (middle mark), is it able to be driven without shaking etc. This takes about 15 minutes from start till Im able to drive it. After it is normal , it drives and runs perfectly. Again, it only happens in cold weather. Spring and summer it was fine. My mechanic first thought it was IAC then ran tests and thought it something else - he cleaned fuel lines or something. They did NOT change the IAC. Needless to say after i picked it up, and started it again 4 hours later in cold weather it was NOT fixed. Problem not fixed. I cannot emphasize enough the shaking and sounds that come everytime I 'cold start" it. Any advice? I was hoping it isthe IAC? I wish they would have tried that? It seems not to be an expensive part. Any suggestios or tips/advice/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I am at my wits end with the mechanic.Thanks
  • nitrous93nitrous93 Member Posts: 17
    I would replace these 3 things, IAC, EGR Sensor, and EGR Valve. The EGR parts are towards the firewall on the mid right hand side of the upper intake, (in Back) One is cylinder shaped (plastic) and the other is shaped like a square(flat) Plastic, They have vaccuum lines running to them, one is hooked to a hard metal line, to your exhaust with a rubber hose. the other one goes in to your upper intake, both are electronic. One is around $20.00and the other is around $68.00 If these 3 things do not help it, the best thing to do is leave it at a mechanics shop when you know its gonna be cold, dont park inside shop(leave outside) overnight, and when it starts to do it, have him plug his computer in, and it will tell him what it is. Hopes this helps.

    Nitrous :shades:
  • copndaddycopndaddy Member Posts: 1
    I have the exact same issue with my G/F's 2001 Tribute V6.....it just starting this issue a few months ago...and it has never left her stranded....but it is very annoying to have to crank this thing over and over before she fires up. Once she starts, the idles and runs just fine...but if you let her sit for any length of time.....then try and start her up again...it takes several cranks before she will fire up....

    it simply acts like there is a very weak spark during start up.....like in the OLD days if you did not use a ballast resistor on the coil for normal operation...then use a direct 12v just during starting.....but tried to use the same voltage for starting and running.....

    is there any type of bypass that is suppose to offer a HOTTER spark during start-up vs constant running on these things??? if so, that is most likely the culprit in this case.....other than that...im stumped.....
  • coopchangcoopchang Member Posts: 7
    On four different occasions my Ford Escapr stalled with no power just after leaving my apartment. Started it right up & ran fine after. I took it to the dealership & they say no codes were tripped & basically told if it happens again & the check engine light goes on to have it towed in. This is very frustrating and the check engine light has never gone on. Any Ford mechanics have any advise? Thanks, John
  • idaryeidarye Member Posts: 2
    I have had a very similar problem with my '02 Tribute recently (rough idle for first few minutes after cold start). It would also miss at around 4000 rpm. First time I brought it in, they changed fuel filter (original one by the way), but that did not fix the issue. Second time, they cleaned the throttle body, and, voala, problem gone!

    So, it's a cheap fix and worth a shot. I did have a check engine light, and it was giving a too lean code.
  • kalee71kalee71 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for your response. My car has been at the mechanic's for over 1 week now. After running tests for a couple days on their own as well as along with a Ford rep (sister model), it was determined that the problem is with the fuel injectors. I believe 2 or 3 have to be replaced? I am waiting for them to finish and see if in fact this solves the problems. I was able to pick up codes prior to dropping it off - misfires on cylinders 5 and 6, and code for lean bank. Of course, when i dropped it off, the weather here became unseasonably very warm, and it started with NO PROBLEM and ran smooth as ever and the engine light disappeared. I hope this fuel injector replacement "fixes" the problems. I say problems because i have other issue when it rains also. after it rains and i start the car, i also get rough idle but it is different than other issue. i can drive it etc, it just a little rough shakes slightly, and as driving feels like the car is "dragging". After its running for about 15-20 minutes it's fine.
  • cotuitboycotuitboy Member Posts: 3
    I am experiencing the same issues, my new escape stalls while idling and also when slowing down approaching stops in the road. I am also experiencing 2 and 3 turn starts, but that is the least of my worries. The stalling is a major problem and am having the same issue with the dealers, not knowing what to do. I did find out that Escapes dating back a few years have had similar occurances and a service bulletin has been put out (TSB-07-5-6). I am going to the dealer again and specifying this TSB be looked into.
  • idaryeidarye Member Posts: 2
    yeah, my car had 6 error codes, they were all coming from the two 02 sensor banks and were saying it was running lean. The mechanic told me that Fords seem to get more carbon build-up in the throttle body for some reason, and Tributes have a Ford engine of course. I personally thought it had something to do with fuel injectors, but after he cleaned the throttle body, I have not had any problems (been over a week now). Before, the check engine light came right back on after they reset it.

    Anyway, hope it works out for you, but if it is still doing the same after this fix, have them clean the throttle body.
  • pjkkozpjkkoz Member Posts: 2
    kalee71, I was wondering if your problem has been solved, my wife's 2001 LX is doing exactly the same thing .The check engine light doe not go on. Did you check engine light light up? Thanks.
  • coolmom59coolmom59 Member Posts: 1
    Took my 05 Tribute to the Mazda dealer yesterday as it was making a whirring type noise (couldn't pinpoint when exactly) then the check engine light came on.

    3 different problems detected: 1) #2 cylinder showing misfire, sparkplug fouled out - needs coil replacement, new "o" rings, and replace spark plug $350 since intake has to come off. 2) power steering fluid is thin - needs to be flushed $100 (flushed or drained???) 3) Emerg. brake shoe is pinned up against rear rotor. It's self adjusting, but no adjustment is left. Need to adjust rear brakes $50 (yet he said there was no adjustment left??? Never did find out what was causing the noise.

    Any advice or comments? Thanks!
  • kalee71kalee71 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I actually got my tribute back a few days ago...just in time for the very cold weather here again..good test..the first morning there was a "hiccup" but it was fine - may have been simply because i let it sit for a couple days in very cold weather..after that (the last 3 days) it is started fine..the idle (rpms) stay at 1000 - no dropping down, no loud noises, NO SHAKING,and clunking, and feeling like it would stall. IT WORKS! It rides better than ever..smooth..i wonder if i always had a problem with the fuel injectors from the start..i always had an issue when drinving...prarticularly around 50MPH when it would sort of jump..people attested it to gear chnage..but it happened at different speeds, on highway and street driving and it was very "obnoxious"..it sometimes felt like something was going to "drop"...anyway that has stopped as well. As far as what was fixed.....3 fuel injectors were bad..one i think was actually leaking a bit...they went ahead and changed all 6 injectors, replaced two coils, new spark plugs, fuel filter. Total = appx 1k. but luckily i had extended warranty which covered about 70%..In answer to your question...my engine light did come on and then would go off after a few days..but then back on..To reiterate i was able to use one of those code readers which i picked up 2 misfire codes(on cylinders 5 and 6) as well as lean bank code. I've heard you can go to an autozone auto parts store, and they will read the codes for you (reads best when engine light is on, but you may still get codes)..then you can do search online on the codes you get.. A previous reader posted in this forum re: choke cleaning and ford engine etc..i've read that a lot too, and my mechanic did have a "ford" rep come and run tests as well. i also had choke cleaned just prior to this - they thought that would have fixed probloem initailly..of course it hadn't..Bottom line, it seems it can be a variety of things - from spark plugs, choke cleaning, fuel injectors, IAC, EGR etc..one by one they have to be checked i guess..check the inexpensive first :).. spark plugs, etc. I don't know how bad your tirbute is, if it was like mine. Just for kicks, next time it happens, open hood , locate IAC/AIC i forget name..research online for picture..it's right next to engine (to your right) --bright shiny silver cylinderish thing..as car is on..give it a couple "taps" with hammer or screwdriver handle. see if a change happens or if it kicks in..if it does..then thats your problem (IAC) and you'd be very lucky as that is inexpensive esp if u do it yourself. I hoped that was my problemn - it wasnt..but worth a shot to start. Every have a tune up? could be spark plugs..checkt hat next..good luck
  • pjkkozpjkkoz Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I just got mine back from the shop last night, my problem was a leaky intake manifold gasket. Hope your problem doesn't recurr if it does that's something else to check. thanks for your reply.
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