Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I just got an '08 Tribute V6 AWD last week and the engine vibrations coming through the accelerator pedal are similar to those on the '05 Tribute I was writing about back then. So I guess it's normal for this car.
The vibration in the gas pedal is present at all times. It gets a little worse under various circumstances. I'll check the tranny fluid level today, but I doubt I'll find it low.
For some reason I find this kind of vibration particularly annoying in a new vehicle.
For Kam327: Apparently you kept your '05 Tribute for 2 years and then traded it for the '08 Tribute. Did the '05 Tribute ever experience any drivetrain problems? I have to conclude you had a good experience with your vehicle despite the vibrations that you clearly noticed.
At the moment I don't plan to keep this 08 Escape beyond the warrenty period, which since I only drive about 10,000 mi per year will be either 3 years or 5 years.
I'd still like to know if any other Mariner/Escape/Tribute owners notice any vibration in the pedal. I've driven a lot of cars over the years, and only a few complete junkers have ever done this.
I am going on three weeks with no more starting problems!
Any similar experiences or ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you
jwbet, "Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair" #1696, 7 Aug 2002 9:56 am
Be sure to scroll down ten posts or so to Wwest's explanation too.
Ladyblue
First, it's an 01 LX V6 with 93K. I've had NO problems so far - oil, gas, and tires. GREAT vehicle. Oh, the driver's inside handle broke. 98 bucks at the dealer.
Here's the problem. When I start the car, the O/D off light stays on. Switch in the end of the trans selector lever does nothing. Drove it on the highway yesterday, and the cruise control doesn't work. BUT - the cruise control off switch on the steering wheel now cycles the O/D on and off! Go figure! Dealer doesn't have a clue, and I can't locate the wiring diagram for the cruise/tranny/controls.
Any guesses would be greatly appreciated! :mad:
Hi, I'm new here and I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right place but I would like to know if anyone else has had this problem. My son purchased a 2008 Limited Escape in August and has had problems with it since..At first it felt like there was no power and it was going to stall out .He brought it back to the dealers twice and they said the computer found no problem which was hard to believe.Recently, it has gotten worse where it did stall out on a busy intersection with our 6 month old grandson in the back seat.They almost got into an accident . My husband took it right back to the dealers and he almost got hit because it stalled on him..Finally, got a phone call from the service center saying there is a big problem the transmission slips into idle..(no kidding!!) My son doesn't want it back especially with a baby on board..Just wanted to know if anyone else here experienced this....Thanks, Sue
I literally just found this on about.com:auto repair. I was looking for a similar issue. My rear door works on and off with the weather, but never locks, alarm works, but hatch door is always openable, when it opens..sometimes it's like the handles broken on that too (see below). Sun roof switch replaced twice now needs a third...power steering control replaced, and temp control dial needs to be replaced and NOW my driver door outside handle does not open..one moment fine, next gone. I can open it from inside (what a pain in the NECK!) Anyone have any suggestions on this last problem? I have a 2001 escape. oh yea did I mention my airbag light flashes on and off..mostly on?
The last time I took my Tribute to the dealer (Phillips Mazda in Laguna Niguel, CA), to fix a recurring blinking airbag light (for the 4th time), they installed an ABS system modification/recall component that looks like an air tank in the engine compartment. After that a very loud squealing noise comes from the engine compartment at highway speeds when driving up steep grades or anytime I "press" the engine. It sounds sort of like a high pressure leak or a slipping belt.
I've taken it back to the dealer 2x now. The first time they couldn't duplicate the noise, the second time I left it there a week while I was out of town. They said they were 99% sure it was the alternator & belt and told my wife it would be $900 to replace them!! I refused the work, of course, then they came up with a $300 figure for just the belt! I have a hard time believing the belt just started doing this after they installed that part.
Anyone else heard of this problem. I'm taking it to my regular mechanic this week. Thanks!
:shades:
Sometimes it will fire within 1 or 2 seconds as it should, other times it will crank for 5 to 10 seconds half a dozen times (sometimes 8 or 10 times) before it fires. It runs great, just dosen't like to start about 25% of the time.
First, yes I have replaced the IAC. As well as the battery, starter relay, cam sensor, and crank sensor. I have been to two Mazda dealers, one Ford dealer and two independents. Lots of guessing. There has never been any mil lights, codes or pending codes. It has been scanned at least a dozen times including koeo and koer.
The Ford dealer thought it was in the PCM and said a Mazda dealer could replace it under warranty (the PCM is covered 8 years/80K miles). However the Mazda dealer replaced the relay, says it starts fine, then suggested "if the problem returns, replace the fuel pump". The problem never went away and the fuel pump tests fine. I believe none of them has fixed the problem, because they have not kept the vehicle long enough to verify the problem and then do a proper diagnosis.
My gut feeling is that this is a contact/corrosion problem, because it is intermittent. This weekend I hope to work through Ford TSB 06-9-3 (connector terminal corrosion).
Has anyone had a similar starting problem that was not the IAC?
Bruce
Flash-light and mirror in hand I looked and looked for a place to connect it but no luck.
Any idea of where this is supposed to go (comes up just to left of battery when facing the engine from front.)
thanks
Griff
Nitrous :shades:
it simply acts like there is a very weak spark during start up.....like in the OLD days if you did not use a ballast resistor on the coil for normal operation...then use a direct 12v just during starting.....but tried to use the same voltage for starting and running.....
is there any type of bypass that is suppose to offer a HOTTER spark during start-up vs constant running on these things??? if so, that is most likely the culprit in this case.....other than that...im stumped.....
So, it's a cheap fix and worth a shot. I did have a check engine light, and it was giving a too lean code.
Anyway, hope it works out for you, but if it is still doing the same after this fix, have them clean the throttle body.
3 different problems detected: 1) #2 cylinder showing misfire, sparkplug fouled out - needs coil replacement, new "o" rings, and replace spark plug $350 since intake has to come off. 2) power steering fluid is thin - needs to be flushed $100 (flushed or drained???) 3) Emerg. brake shoe is pinned up against rear rotor. It's self adjusting, but no adjustment is left. Need to adjust rear brakes $50 (yet he said there was no adjustment left??? Never did find out what was causing the noise.
Any advice or comments? Thanks!
I actually got my tribute back a few days ago...just in time for the very cold weather here again..good test..the first morning there was a "hiccup" but it was fine - may have been simply because i let it sit for a couple days in very cold weather..after that (the last 3 days) it is started fine..the idle (rpms) stay at 1000 - no dropping down, no loud noises, NO SHAKING,and clunking, and feeling like it would stall. IT WORKS! It rides better than ever..smooth..i wonder if i always had a problem with the fuel injectors from the start..i always had an issue when drinving...prarticularly around 50MPH when it would sort of jump..people attested it to gear chnage..but it happened at different speeds, on highway and street driving and it was very "obnoxious"..it sometimes felt like something was going to "drop"...anyway that has stopped as well. As far as what was fixed.....3 fuel injectors were bad..one i think was actually leaking a bit...they went ahead and changed all 6 injectors, replaced two coils, new spark plugs, fuel filter. Total = appx 1k. but luckily i had extended warranty which covered about 70%..In answer to your question...my engine light did come on and then would go off after a few days..but then back on..To reiterate i was able to use one of those code readers which i picked up 2 misfire codes(on cylinders 5 and 6) as well as lean bank code. I've heard you can go to an autozone auto parts store, and they will read the codes for you (reads best when engine light is on, but you may still get codes)..then you can do search online on the codes you get.. A previous reader posted in this forum re: choke cleaning and ford engine etc..i've read that a lot too, and my mechanic did have a "ford" rep come and run tests as well. i also had choke cleaned just prior to this - they thought that would have fixed probloem initailly..of course it hadn't..Bottom line, it seems it can be a variety of things - from spark plugs, choke cleaning, fuel injectors, IAC, EGR etc..one by one they have to be checked i guess..check the inexpensive first .. spark plugs, etc. I don't know how bad your tirbute is, if it was like mine. Just for kicks, next time it happens, open hood , locate IAC/AIC i forget name..research online for picture..it's right next to engine (to your right) --bright shiny silver cylinderish thing..as car is on..give it a couple "taps" with hammer or screwdriver handle. see if a change happens or if it kicks in..if it does..then thats your problem (IAC) and you'd be very lucky as that is inexpensive esp if u do it yourself. I hoped that was my problemn - it wasnt..but worth a shot to start. Every have a tune up? could be spark plugs..checkt hat next..good luck