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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    If you're not interested in going offroad, forget about the 80 series Land Cruiser. Parts are more expensive, and it's geared more towards offroad use.

    I can tell you that the 3rd generation 4Runner has a very stiff ride, but the 3.4l V6 should provide good performance in hills versus the fzj80.
  • scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    Just bought a 98' landcruiser with 58000 miles. Was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to post some of the maintenance schedule for the vehicle. My didn't come with the supplemental owners manual for maintenance. Thanks in advance.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Try The Edmunds Maintenance Guide for starters.


    Steve, Host

  • scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    ...but I was wondering how Edmunds came up with this info? Was it from the maintenance manual or is a general template that is used for every vehicle? (as most maintenance schedules are very similar)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My understanding is that the maintenance recommendations come straight from the manufacturer (we have a big data section here).

    Usually "additional procedures" recommended but not required by the manufacturer are included too (via a link at bottom of the maintenance page).

    Steve, Host
  • rnb2rnb2 Member Posts: 17
    First, thank you to all those who have answered my questions so far. I've pretty much decided on the LC subject to a last day's think. This is a difficult decision for me, for a number of reasons, and I really appreciate dealing with potential remorse before I make the purchase.

    1) I have read that the head lamps on the LC are dimmer than one might wish. Is this an issue on the 2003? If it is, is there a solution as in different bulbs?

    2) Tires. In my region (MA) every dealer automatically orders the 18" tire option. I always thought that for snow or dirt, smaller was better. The LC I am contemplating has 18 inch Bridgestone "Duallers"[?]. Are these what I really want for winter driving? If not, is it worth replacing tires or wheels/tires? My preference is for control (dry or wet) over ride smoothness.

    3) As you may observe from the preceding question, I like tight riding cars. My test drives, while not as thorough as I would have liked, gave me the feeling that the LC is as stiff as the LX set to sport. Am I close?

    4) My local Toyota dealer has a much better reputation for service than it does for sales (the same color coded team always works on your car, fast, efficient, no frills but nice). I don't care about coffee in an office with the service manager. Does it sound reasonable that the service could actually be good, as good as Lexus? Does the fact that I will have bought the car from a different dealer affect my service?

    5) As I have said, I need a vehicle to use when the BMW M5 is too small, or when I don't want to risk it. Moving, kids, stuff and dogs, I care less for leather and wood and more for performance and quality. The LC seems an excellent vehicle and, frankly, I feel a truck should look like what it is. I would appreciate any comments, or opinions, or even encouragement.

    Again, thanks.
  • londonfinlondonfin Member Posts: 31
    I am also in MA and am looking at LC as well as Lexus LX and GX. Just starting to look and would welcome any thoughts if you have looked at all three, as well as what you might have seen or heard about any local dealers. I have no info on any as I have never owned a Toyo or Lexus. I too don't need too fancy but want reliability and safety as well as something bigger than my ML320. FWIW, I have put 4 snows on my ML and is has been great this winter and I have replaced the headlight bulbs with much brighter ones from a firm in the UK (learned about it from the ML board). Feel free to e-mail me directly at jimjpsc@hotmail.com and I can give you details.
  • njpaguynjpaguy Member Posts: 55
    After my (now former) servicing dealer didn't do the work they charged me for at 60K miles, I bought the TLC service manuals to proceed on my own. But I have a few questions which aren't clearly answered. 1) At what mileage should the timing belt be replaced? 2) What about the drive belt? 3) How often should the spark plugs get changed? (Dealer thinks they may be iridiums, good for 100K miles, but doesn't really know... 4) How often should brake fluid be changed? Thanks to all (in advance) for your help. njpaguy@mindspring.com
  • aggiebartaggiebart Member Posts: 37
    Since I just put a Kazuma TRD supercharger in my 97 rig. We have some serious power. 300 horses and torque to spare. And it does not look like a soccer mom's ride. If you can get ahold of a supercharger for you 95-97 LC I highly recommend it. I got mine from a dealer close out for lets just say...CHEAP. You have to use Super Unleaded but who cares, when you get 12 mpg it just does not matter.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    If anything, getting 12MPG means I would pay more attention to what gas costs. If you got 30MPG, then it wouldn't matter what you pay.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    Anyone know what the approximate life expectancy of the stock shocks are? I live in San Diego and the roads are not in the best of shape; genius burocracy thought it a better idea to build a ball-park than maintain streets and water pipes. I've done mainly around-town and highway driving and it seems like the ride has become harder. I've got an appointment to throw some new shocks on tomorrow, but I'm wondering if it's necessary, or if it's in my head. Anyone with comparable miles (80,000)had shocks replaced? At how many miles?

    Scott
  • intmed99intmed99 Member Posts: 485
    I have read that the TLC's shocks are HEAVY DUTY. Of course, i have no idea what that means. However, Toyota shocks are made by Tokico, which is a respectable shock company. If the TLC shocks are MONOTUBE (high-pressure) and of high quality, then they should last a very long time...maybe even the life of the vehicle. Now, if they're TWIN-TUBE (low-pressure), which is what is found on 4Runners, then they may wear out.

    So, try and find out what kind of shocks are on your Toyota BEFORE replacing them...because if they're monotubes, then you're just wasting your money.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    They are mono-tubes. They do wear out. My '91 FJ-80 were replaced at about 120,000 miles and they were completely shot. I didn't notice as they wore out gradually. When replaced, the ride was vastly improved and I felt like an idiot for not noticing sooner. Any tech guy have any feedback on this subject?
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    I would say it is necessary to replace the shocks at 80k. I have a '99 with 65k and just replaced the shocks and added a lift and man what a difference. From a shock stand point the ride is lot less rough than with my warn out stock shocks. And the vehicle does not continue to bounce over big bumps on the highway like a cadillac, i guess it is called floating. Now it hits the bump, the new shocks absorb the bump and there is absolutely no floating.

    fj100
  • rleongrleong Member Posts: 41
    njpaguy:

    I got 2000 LC and I'm looking for some services manuals. Should I buy the ones from the Toyota dealer or can I get always with the ones at the auto part stores?

    Where did you buy the service manuals and how much did you pay?

    Thanks,
    Ray
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Factory repair manuals are expensive, but they are the way to go. Check Specter's website for a price point (http://www.sor.com/sor/index.tam).

    It looks like yours is split into 2 volumes.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sometimes stuff like that shows up on eBay.

    Steve, Host
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Steve, It would be nice to get a heads-up when a change is made to the board.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Heads Up!

    change is coming
    change is good

    You wouldn't want to drive around in a 1969 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 all the time would you? Wait... bad example.

    :-)

    Steve, Host
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    The point is that the URL in my favorites no longer worked. And yes, I wouldn't mind driving around in a '69 fj40 all the time.
  • tedplanotedplano Member Posts: 31
    Cliffy, What is MSRP on 7yr/0 deductible Platinum warranty for a landcruiser?
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    You really want to know? Its high. Very high. MSRP is $2050 for the 7/100 and $1500 for the 7/75.
  • tedplanotedplano Member Posts: 31
    Thanks, Just wanted to compare to what I actually paid.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    On a TLC, shock life is likely to be well into the hundred thou range. I changed my 80 series at 110k and found the ones I took off were still smooth, solid and operated well. The new ones I put on hardly made a difference and were a waste. This on a vehicle that regularly tows, has air bladders on the rear axle to handle the tow load, and gets offroaded as well. The Tokico shocks are stout and have been on Cruisers for over a decade. Fortunately, they're also cheap as they're real shocks instead of a strut design, so no big deal I guess.

    DougM
  • njpaguynjpaguy Member Posts: 55
    Forget auto store manuals. In your Toyota maintenance book included with the truck, they list a 800 number to call for service manuals. Spoke with a friend at a dealer to order them first, but he said the 800 number was cheaper...and he usually saves me a great deal on parts.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    Changed shocks to Bilstein's today at 80,000...truck handles much nicer. Had several mechanics tell me that the stock Tokico shocks are pretty lousy. Whether it's racing or off-road, Bilstein seems to be the shock of choice. Can't say that the shocks we're completely shot at 80,000, but the ride sure is nicer. Also changed all four brake pads. Amazed I got 80,000 out of the original pads. FJ-80 ate breaks.
  • lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    a while ago i posted a message asking if anyone knew the difference between the 80 amp alt vs the 90 amp alt for my 91 LC. the toyota dealer i got serviced at didnt know. justed wanted to let the board know, if interested, that the brackets are different on the two amps and the 90 amp alt didnt fit on my truck. held my truck up in service for two days while they ordered the right part.
  • lpc68lpc68 Member Posts: 45
    my power steering pump is leaking at the back and i remember reading on the board that it was not necessary to replace the whole pump, just the seals.

    has anyone done this?

    How may hours should it take?

    as always, thanks in advance!
  • scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    If you don't mind me asking...what did the Bilstein shocks cost? I recently purchased a 98' with 60,000 miles (I just did the front brakes though).
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    $68.00/per Bilstein says they're out of stock nationwide, but individual deals still have stock.
  • cadriencadrien Member Posts: 21
    issue with water on the floor is finally resolved. turns out the water was coming in through a body seam behind the dash. Guess that is one more place water can enter on an fj80. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I'd disagree with that diagnosis and the fix. First, I'm in an 80 Series Cruiser club (members over 300 around the globe) and have NEVER heard of a seam problem on the cowl. Only plugged drains have caused leaks. This body is built by ARACO, not Toyota, because Toyota wanted the absolute best in build quality (see sticker on inner door). Second, why did it not leak since new? An open seam would have leaked from the day it left the factory (and flunked ARACO's 100% water integrity test, BTW)

    I'll stick by my "clogged sunroof drain" theory and either the dealer gave you the seam thing so they sounded like a hero (unclogging a drain isn't glamorous enough?), or they caulked a seam that had nothing to do with it and you're going to have a leak again.

    I hope it's gone, but...

    IdahoDoug
  • mitrismitris Member Posts: 14
    First, thanks for all of the good advice the, with help from this board I ended up buying a 2000 TLC with 54000 miles for close to wholesale.

    I only got one key, the "master" key. Got the code from original dealer. Local service told me that I can get one valet key for $60.00 but reccomends getting an extra of the master for $300.00 as well as if it is ever lost computer must be replaced to match the chip. I hate to spend 300.00 on a key but I plan on having this for a while and it seems better than 1000. for computer. Thoughts?
  • ironside7ironside7 Member Posts: 38
    Has anyone purchased and installed the "Xenon" headlamps that you can find all over Ebay? If so, has there been any improvement in the strength of the headlamps? My TLC's headlamps are a little dim and I am looking for an improvement.

    Thanks
  • rnb2rnb2 Member Posts: 17
    I want to thank those on this board who helped me make a decision. I took delivery of a 2003 yesterday.

    One problem however, the dead pedal came off. The salesman blames his prep people for not being careful. I suspect the original install was bad. In any event, I drove an hour each way today to get it looked at. The replacement part will arrive next week. A fascinating part, instead of being screwed down, this piece clicks in (probably for faster assembly). I'm willing to write it off as minor, although the problem could have been detected easily prior to delivery. I just hope that this is a fluke and that the rest of the vehicle is of legendary build quality.

    I'm not quite used to being called a sociopathic type looking for a way to intimidate others. My brother e-mailed me the following link <http://tnr.com/doc.mhtml?i=20030120&s=easterbrook012003> to a review of the Bradsher book. I know the beast guzzles gas, but I was under the impression that it was reasonably safe on road. I also didn't realize that front wheel drive was the safest drive system. :-). But seriously, is this vehicle not very competent on pavement. I mean, I drove an Odyssey which didn't feel any more stable. I know its not a sports car, but I wasn't planning of driving it like one.

    Anyway, what is the roll over story on the land cruiser. Anyone care to prevent
     a case of buyer's remorse.
  • londonfinlondonfin Member Posts: 31
    rnb2: If you don't mind, i have a few questions as I am also in Mass and looking at buying a 2003 LC. Which dealer did you decide on? Were any particularly good or bad? And how much over/under invoice did you pay? Just looking for advice as a potential Toyaota newbie and I hate to get stuck with a bad deal(er) as I have in the past with my Ford. Thanks so much!
  • mitrismitris Member Posts: 14
    Just interested in what you paid for your 2000 TLC and if you went with the extended warranty or not. If you did what co. you used? Also interested in what you did with the Key situation. Thx
  • 9411794117 Member Posts: 39
    ...for about $5K off list per carsdirect.com
  • 9411794117 Member Posts: 39
    Overall, SUV's are the safest "type" of vehicle for the occupants. Toyota City's ARACO produces the highest quality SUV's in the world. I didn't really see myself in that article but of course my mileage is poor.

    The guvmint is working on rollover ratings that are dynamic. The current "tilt test" puts a car on a platter and lifts up one end until it rolls. The Corvette does great on this test but, in real life, has a very high rollover rate. Obviously, the TLC is prone to roll over but driver behavior plays a significant role.
  • rnb2rnb2 Member Posts: 17
    94177 is correct, you should be able to get one about $5000 off sticker around Boston. Be aware, though, that in this region, every Land Cruiser is equipped with each and every option, plus everything that the dealer could find to add at the port (roof rack, towing package, bug deflector, mats, etc). Sticker will be between $58.5K and $59.5K.

    I liked the dealer where I bought the car, but they did let me drive out with a broken dead pedal. I want to see how they handle the small fix, and the embarrassment they should feel, before I say anything.
  • londonfinlondonfin Member Posts: 31
    Thanks for the help. Please let me know when you are ready as I would welcome any feedback about where to go or not go as far as dealers! Did you look at the Lexus LX470 at all? Trying to decide if there is a real difference. (Also looking at GX 470)
  • scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    Key companies now are able to clear the key register in the 16 bit Toyota ECM. This means that you no longer need to replace the ECM if all keys are lost. Of course I'm sure they'll gouge you on the price to re-program the key register.

    I've been looking myself for spare keys for my 98LC. Finding quotes at around $45-$50.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Just found this board. Great! Re: prices. I got a 2002 (new) mid-July of last year. Everything on it, nav sys, wood trim, roof rack, running boards, black pearl badging. Paid $49,999. Have an 80 (modified) so I had to mod this one too. OME shocks and springs. BFG 285/75 ATs, PIAA Super White bulbs. These were "must do" mods for me. I couldn't stand the ultra mushy ride, too small tires and low height. OME mod lifts it about 1.5", which is less than the 3.5" or so on the 80. Hope this is of some help others
  • steenh1steenh1 Member Posts: 28
    I'll be in the market for a used LC in a few months. Seems to be great info on this board. I'm debating 97 LC or LX450 or paying the difference for a 98/99. I have noticed that in Atlanta, 97 LC's seem to cost more than 97 LX450's with comparable mileage? Any reason for that...
    Also, there seems to be about a $5k increase to go to a 98/99 with comparable mileage. Any insight into the reliability between the 97 w/ I6 and the 98 with V8 would be appreciated.
    One last question. Does the 97 come automatically with center dif lock, or is that an option I need to make sure is on the vehicle?

    Thanks for your help.
  • rnb2rnb2 Member Posts: 17
    I just heard today that the replacement dead pedal has arrived (a day late) and I will go to have it replaced tomorrow. The service manager indicated that he was doing me a favor replacing it, as his technician said the problem was fixed. I asked if the pedal was supposed to move and make cracking noises when I rested my foot on it. You'd think that this early in a relationship, the dealer would be embarrassed that they had done a poor pre delivery inspection, would be embarrassed for making me come back twice for a fix, and would fall over themselves to be helpful. Not yet.

    I did, in fact, look at both the LX470 and the GX470. The LX, without DVD or nightvision ran $10,000 more than the LC (after negotiations). The leather, wood and stereo didn't mean that much to me. I'm pretty sure I can manage without hill descent control ;-). I didn't think the adjustable suspension would improve the truck's handling, which means something to me. The LC rides just fine, and does not need to be softer. Besides, I fear that the suspension is just one more thing that could go wrong. I needed something to travel with kids and dogs, and throw stuff in the back. I'll save the kid gloves for my M5.

    On the other hand, maybe there is something to Lexus service. And the warranty is certainly better on the Lexus.

    As to the GX, $52K will probably get one fully loaded. There is more head room, (the GX is actually taller than the LX. It feels a little narrower than the LX. The rear door is certainly interesting, opening as it does to the right (this would make it difficult to access the back if you wanted to attach, say, a rear bike rack. I liked the GX, but it was the same price as the LC - but if I had it to do over again, I don't know, You might also want to look at the 4 Runner if you don't need the rear seats. The V6 would be fine for most people, and you'll save $15,000 over the LC (but this one has much less headroom than the GX.

    To make a confession, I have been wondering whether I got the right car. Granted the LC fits in the garage, where a Yukon XL wouldn't, but did I need a truck in the first place. I I did, maybe I should have gotten one that holds more. If I didn't, a mini van or a small snow car (like a WRX for instance) would have been cheaper. After all, not caring if the car gets beat up, is almost as good as having a car that will go anywhere. The load limit is about 1500 pounds, and with the dogs in the back, I worry that with a roof carrier, it will be easy to make the car unstable.
    Perhaps someone can help me with the following questions.

    1) What is the best way to load two labs and luggage? I have even thought about letting the dogs sit on the third row seat, with duffel bags in the foot well and behind the seat.

    2) Recommendations on bike and luggage racks. Weathertek or Yakima hitch mounted ski racks? Does a luggage rack up top have a noticeable effect on stability?

    3) Tires? Are the Dualler H/Ts (18") that came with the truck, good in the snow. I am in MA, what tires are recommended winter and which in summer?

    Londonfin, I'm still thinking about my opinions on dealers. Hope some of the above helps. I
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    fzj80/lx450 came without a center diff lock button, but it can be added. The center diff is locked automatically in low range.
  • tuition06tuition06 Member Posts: 20
    does anyone have any experience with the kumho brand of tires. they are 50% less then michelins. are the tire rack reviews reliable and objective? thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I recommend the Tires, tires, tires discussion too; lots of knowledgeable tire fans hang out there.

    Steve, Host
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Pretty sure center diff lock would always be engaged when you put it into low range on the '97. (I know that's the case on '94s) You may be thinking about the optional locking f/r differential locks? As noted in an earlier post, you can get a switch that will allow you to go into low range without locking the center diff. I have a '94 80 and 2002 100 series LC. Prior to 2000, in the 100 series you could get a locking rear diff in addition to the locking center diff. In 2000 they went to the "traction control" setup which uses the ABS brakes to add and take away traction depending on wheel slip etc, so no locking rear diff, but you still get the center locking diff. Locking center diffs are standard on 80 series, but not the locking f/r diffs. I may not have these various combinations completely accurate, but believe these are the main differences in the differential lock set ups on the 80s and 100s. If you plan to to a lot of off roading and would like to lift your vehicle, the 80 may be the better choice because you can lift it more than a 100. I don't know of any widely available lift modifications for the 100 except that provided by OME. Does any one else know if this is true or not?
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