Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Toyota Land Cruiser

15758606263101

Comments

  • bryan28bryan28 Member Posts: 59
    I too have the clunk and was told by one Toyota mechanic that it was normal.... I am not happy with this answer and would like to hear what your shop says. I too can make the clunk go away by popping it into neutral at the stop, and it seams to happen less when I have a heavy load in the truck or if I stop gradually. If I were you I would grease the slip yoke first but you only have so little miles it should be up to spec already. The break issue stated by mjfloyd1 is interesting too, when I pull the rear wheel off on the left side the disk is loose about the lugs whereas on the right side the disk is tight with no play. As I see it when the wheel is re installed the lug nut pressure will hold the wheel and the disk tight so no issue but I wanted to mention it just in case this is your situation too. In summary my feeling is that not every TLC has the clunk and it must be caused by some common "little" issue that a good mechanic will find... Good luck and please post your findings. Bryan
  • lmccullochlmcculloch Member Posts: 2
    rcman13---

    Just had the same thing happen to me. As you'll notice, there is a gang of switches on the driver's side and it is bought as a module. I had a similar problem with the switch and the entire unit had to be replaced at $250.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    So what years/features are to be avoided with solid axle TLCs? Are there any specific issues to watch out for? I know Land Rovers inside and out but nearly nothing about Land Crushers.

    Comments? I'm hoping for an early to mid 90s model.

    Thanks!
  • molarfj100molarfj100 Member Posts: 1
    Today we picked up our first LC. 03'ThunderCloud with most options and NAV. Test drove the Limited Sequoia but decided on LC despite 11k difference. I got a super deal I think, $700 below invoice. Was offered the extended toyota warranty at $950, but told him that I would think about it. Would you get it? Anyway, very happy with the vehicle and it even fits my garage.
  • dchyornydchyorny Member Posts: 47
    Could anyone tell me when the 2004 TLC is coming out. I'm new to the Land Cruiser Forum.
    thanks.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Check out Christo's 80 series newbie guide:
    http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbie100.htm

    The one line answer is that '93 to '97 rigs are recommended, but look for head gasket failure on '95 to '97.
  • adacruiseradacruiser Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased 03 LC. Manual says I have to take to dealership to disable autolock feature (autolocks when moved out of park with ignition running). Isn't there a "code" I can enter myself to disable. Thanks.
  • albivalbiv Member Posts: 35
    Well I lubricated the driveshaft slip yoke (both of them) as well as the u-joints and I have not heard the clunk yet. They needed grease becasue it took about 10 squirts of the grease gun before the shaft stared telescoping. I did however experience a new noise/thump and wanted to find out if anyone has experienced the same thing. When coming to a complete stop, just before the car stops there is a thump, albeit a small one barely noticeable just before the LC stops. It almost feels like a transmission downshift into 1st gear except I ran the LC only in first gear and experienced it as well so I know it's not a downshift. It doesn't happen in reverse nor does it happen when the 2nd gear start button is engaged. Maybe this is normal and I'm just a head case (my head is going clump/thump) but I would like to know if anyone else has this anomaly on their truck.

    Thanks
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    If you saw the shaft moving after greasing the zerks, you need to let some grease out. You're endangering the health of your transfer case by not allowing the driveshaft to compress.

    Drivetrain thump is very common.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    I thought I had read here that you should apply grease until the shaft just starts to telescope, although I have been hesitant to do that to mine, so I just gave it 4 or 5 pumps. Any clarification of this?
  • adacruiseradacruiser Member Posts: 2
    Just purchased 03 LC. Manual says I have to take to dealership to disable autolock feature (autolocks when moved out of park with ignition running). Isn't there a "code" I can enter myself to disable. Thanks.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Well I survived the weekend and got a replacement alternator - is $333 a fir price - seems expensive to me, whats the new price?
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    Hey, I had my '91 LC alternator rebuilt for like $75 bucks. Look up alternator reduilds in the phone book. This was in Raleigh, NC like 5 years ago.

    Regards,

    fj100
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    A replacement alternator is $300-$400 but what needs replacing? The only "moving" parts are the bearings and brushes, and you might as well replace the diodes too. I don't know why any capable alternator shop couldn't do this job.

    Can anyone explain the difference between an 80 and a 100 for me? I'm in the market for solid axles, coil springs and hopefully lockers. I want around a '93 to '95. What's my best choice?

    I drive a Rover now and use it extensively offroad. I want to replace my wife's ride with something bigger and cushier but with "similar" capability. We're in snow and snot half the year and 4WD is really important here. She loves the taught, solid feel of the Rover and I'm hoping to find that in the TLC as well. I want something that will last nearly forever.

    Comments? Remember this is HER ride, so it has to be user-friendly. But I want it as simple as possible and I want it to be tough. I'm considering another Rover for her, but my kids are big enough now they don't fit the back seat well. The added wheelbase of the TLC seems to fit the ticket, as does its offroad ability.
  • steenh1steenh1 Member Posts: 28
    Wanted to thank all of you for the valuable information. Haven't posted, but have been reading for a while as I searched for a deal. Got a '99 with all the bells and whistles, 80k with all maint records for $22.5k Seemed like a steal compared to the others I looked at. Shooting for 200k at least.

    Only problem I have is the cup-holder cover has come off... screws loosened. Noticed that in a lot of the test drives I've taken. The way the hinge works, I don't see any way to screw it back on without taking the console apart. Any quick tricks to getting that done?

    Thanks again.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    You can pop off the cover around the gearshift , which is held in place by 4 clips. The cupholder is attached to that cover. It is still a really tight fit to tighten the screws, but it can be done. Try to get ahold of a manual that shows where the clips are- it makes all the difference in the world to prevent damage to the trim.
  • bryan28bryan28 Member Posts: 59
    I had the same problem with the cup holder... The console cover around the shifters just snaps off with out too much trouble and then you have good access to the cup holder. The trouble I had was the screws and springs at the hinges were small and tough to get aligned etc. but after +/-hour I had it back in and working. Look around the opening after removing the holder and if your lucky you will find the screws down there.

    As far as the 100 vs 80 question, the 80 is the front and rear solid axle but only 6 cyl., the 100 is the one for your wife IMO, it has the IFS for better ride and the 8cyl for quiet effortless power. The 80 is built like a tank and has quite a following but in my opinion is under powered and noisy when accelerating. Both have center and rear locker options. 100 came out in 98, I bought a 99 and love it. Good luck.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Then the 80 is the next closest thing to my underpowered and built like a tank Land Rover!

    ;)
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Hey, been busy with other stuff for awhile, nice to see you over here. The key change on the 80 series after the 4.5L 6 came with a raft of upgrades in '93 happened in 95. For 95 through the end of the run, it got a smoother but lighter duty auto tranny, airbags, and a smaller radiator.

    I feel the ideal year for value and features would be a '94 with factory lockers and the third seat package. Look at Christo's site for things to check, of course. And don't worry about the 4.5 being underpowered compared to your Rover. Toyota's ad for this new engine in Australia back then was that the new LandCruiser 6 had more torque at idle than the Rover V8's peak. Rover threatened legal action, but was rebuffed.

    If you like the way your Rover drives, you'll LOVE the way the 80 drives. Get some used steel Toyota Sequioa wheels for winter use up there. Plenty of those around.

    IdahoDoug
  • tuition06tuition06 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 97 LX 450. It has only the center locking differential. The lowest traction situation I would be in in central New Jersey will be heavy snowfalls like last winter. Under what conditions would I want to use "L". I presume the center diff is only locked when it is in "L". I have been told in earlier posts that the high range full time 4WD will handle any snowfall. Thanks.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Yeah it's nice to be poking around over here too... I sort of suspected one of the model years would feel "familiar" and it sounds like the '94 is it. You know me, I want it tough and solid... no "lighter-duty" transmissions in my garage.

    Now I'm also considering upgrading my wife's ride another direction. If not the TLC then I'm thinking a Mercedes E420. Those things are built like urban tanks and they're big enough to carry plenty of kids. I sort of hate the baggage that comes along with a Mercedes (snooty/rich) but for the money you're buying a lot of solid engineering.

    We went up on Byron glacier climbing last Thursday. Take a look here:

    http://www.nanuq.net/Troop215/byronglacier2003/byronglacier2003.h- - tm
  • scifiscifi Member Posts: 54
    homygosh...that IS God's country. I know where I'm going to spend my early falls (now...if I can only convince the wife and kids)...

    Ice is blue for much the same reason that water is blue — it absorbs a bit more of the red-frequency part of light that shines on it than it does the blue.

    Poke a hole in snow or ice and look down it. You'll see blue-green light because the emerging light has bounced around through many snow-particle passages. At each snow collision, the snow absorbs more red than blue. Eventually, the reflected light is noticeably blue. The white light fades to blue as it bops its way out. The deeper the ice hole, the bluer the returning light.
  • steenh1steenh1 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks for the advice. I'll tackle it this weekend. Spent the weekend in the mountains, putting the truck to the test. What a great time.

    Thanks again.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Yeah, even the newer tranny is overbuilt, but the 93/94 have one that may be the all time champ of "overkill". When Toyota built the 4.5, they didn't have an auto strong enough for the torque, so elected to use a commercial duty gearbox out of a city bus they call the Coaster. It has a GVW of 30,000lbs, so the box has a pleasantly agricultural feel to it you'll like. Even makes commercial sounds due to the fact that first gear is a straight cut gear for ultimate durability (vs quieter helicals) and you'll recognize the offline whine followed by a shift to a quiet gear just like a real city bus.

    Last weekend, I went up to explore a route for possible connection to a remote trail south of Banff, BC. We were unable to make a connection due to a dusting of snow that made route finding difficult. But we had two grizzly encounters that scared the crap out of us (no sidearms allowed in Canada!), and that made it memorable.

    Later,
    Doug
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Yep that's a familiar sound... my transfer box is straight-cut gear driven and it has a nice whine to it too. I dunno what I'd do if my truck ever stopped whining!

    Your outing sounds about perfect! I haven't run across any bears in a couple months... must be getting fat and happy for winter. We were up Byron glacier last week and never even saw any wolves! I think I posted a link to some pics a few messages back.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Spent about 45 minutes this evening putting fresh power steering fluid in the 80 series today. At 125k it was certainly due, though most vehicles go their entire lives without this change. The fluid was quite dark even though I'd recently sucked the reservoir dry and refilled it with fresh. Fun part was having my 5yo daughter turning the steering wheel to pump the old fluid out (engine off, brake on). She was beaming when Mommy came out to do the pump in of fresh fluid - need the engine running for that. You'll love working on yours. Good luck to you in finding a well maintained example.

    IdahoDoug
  • bryan28bryan28 Member Posts: 59
    It feels like my breaks are grabbing more than usual. I have to think about the pressure I apply so my passengers don't lunge forward at a stop. Is there a common cause for this phenomenon? It feels like the fronts are grabbing but not sure. No locking up or abs activation just touchy. It's a '99 TLC stock 61k miles. Thanks for any advice.

    Nanuq, What a picture of the ice, very dramatic. I now have a new must see item on my list. Thanks!

    Bryan
  • wawrzyng1wawrzyng1 Member Posts: 16
    I just heard from the local Toyota dealer that the rear main engine oil seal must be changed.
    I have a 1996 LX450 with 96K. The cost will be $980.
    This same dealership changed two other seals within the past 3-4months to stop oil leaks. I did not notice any leaks until recently since they
    changed the other seals.

    Any thoughts, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • saupe130saupe130 Member Posts: 36
    A piece of cardboard under the engine in the garage will work to keep oil off the floor. Seriously, how bad is it leaking? Can you even notice a reduction on the dipstick between changes? If not, I'd wait until some other major maintenance was due and have it fixed then. Also, check the PCV system for proper operation. Sometimes this can get plugged up causing excess pressure in the crankcase and causing leaks that otherwise would not be apparent. Had an Isuzu Trooper (what a piece of junk) that lost a lot of oil this way till I figured it out.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    That seems very expensive. I have a 1991 Fj80 and was also told that an oil seal would be needed - but the figure was less. Why so expensive - that doesnt seem good design. In my case I am just watching the oil more closely to avoid a large cheque.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    You know, by having it fixed you risk losing a valuable diagnostic tool. As the owner of a Land Rover I am intimately familiar with the old adage "When it stops leaking it's empty".

    Seriously, a drop of oil on the garage floor means nearly nothing. Land Rover North America went to huge lengths to control leaks before penetrating the North American market... the rest of the world just doesn't care about it like we do. In the big scheme of things, you'd get a lot more enjoyment out of spending that Grover on a ski weekend somewhere.

    Just my $.02 -Bob
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    It may seem intimidating if you've not replaced a rear main seal before, but you could save mucho dinero doing it yourself. Even after buying the required tools, service manual, and the part. $1k seems quite steep. Ask them how many labor hours they are budgeting and how they are going to tackle the problem.
  • culigmculigm Member Posts: 4
    Just traded my '98 LC for a new '03 model. Couple of weeks after driving the new LC, I noticed on the telescoping steering a grinding noise when turning, especially during acceleration. Has anyone else noticed this?

    Also, my '98 seemed much quieter than the '03 (even after undercoating '03 LC with sound proofing undercoat). Could it be the 18" Bridgestone Dueler H/T's? (I had Yokohama Geolander's on my '98 LC). Or, is it maybe the front wheel wells that seem to be much less enclosed/insulated than my '98?

    Any thoughts and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I've had a few people tell me my 80 series rear main was leaking because of a wetness in that area. However, it is simply the greasable driveshaft tossing a bit of grease there regularly. No big deal. I know a lot of 80 owners who've succumbed to this incorrect diagnosis and only realized it after dropping a grand and still having the wetness. Check it out - the shaft's joint is directly in line with that area, eh? Malarky.

    IdahoDoug
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Another common "problem" with Rover rear mains... if the valve cover gaskets weep a little you sometimes get a slight leak down the back of the block... to the rear main area.
  • albivalbiv Member Posts: 35
    I have a '03 LC and have not experienced the grinding noise you mention. I've noticed that depending on the road surface the interior noise level goes up and down. Not sure if it's the tires, but I'd rather have Michelins than Bridgestones.
  • culigmculigm Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the feedback. I had my friendly mechanic take a look at the noise, and he said it was most likely an air bubble in my power steering line. He said it was more of a pulsating resistance during steering (and then only for about 20 degrees of steering wheel rotation). I'll have Toyota check it out and give an update.

    Also, Michelins would definitely be my preference over Bridgestones (even my '98's OEM Dunlops seemed better than what I got on '03). I don't understand Toyota's philosophy in putting such low grade tires on LC's. They are ranked 59th out of 67 tires (see following link : http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/highwayas.jsp).

    Thanks again,
    Marc
  • albivalbiv Member Posts: 35
    Wy wife's 2000 RX300 AWD also had the same tires and although we didn't have any problems with them they were somewhat noisy as well. Better than the Goodyears which originally came with the RX. The Goodyears were causing the RX to vibrate at highway speeds. When I took it back to Lexus they said that the Goodyears should only go on the FWD RX not the AWD and they swapped them for the Bridgestones. Wasn't Toyota using Michelin's as OEM on the previous LC's?
  • firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    Ok. . I realize that this question was asked before, but there was never a definitive answer. I own a 99 TLC

    1. Does the 98-03 TLC timing belt have ‘Zero Clearance’ or Not. In other words, if I continue to drive and it breaks, will severe engine damage occur?

    More specifically I would like to hear from owners that actually have changed theirs.

    Thanks
  • ironside7ironside7 Member Posts: 38
    I have a 98 TLC and when the temperature drops below about 50 degrees F, there is a buzzing noise the emanates from the center of my dash, right near the windshield, as I accelerate through first gear. The noise goes away after first gear. Also, the noise goes away almost completely when I've had the heat on for a while.

    Has anyone else encountered this issue and if so, how was it fixed. My initial reaction was that it is the speedometer or tachometer cable, but I'm not sure.

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • fj100fj100 Member Posts: 97
    1. Yes the engine is zero clearance or interference type engine, if the belt breaks the pistons will destroy the valve train. A new engine is $12k.

    I have not had mine changed yet, I am at 77k miles on a '99. The recommended change interval is 80k or 90k.

    fj100
  • buddyboy2buddyboy2 Member Posts: 2
    I have '98 with 92,000 miles. Had timing belt replaced at recommended 90K by Houston dealer. Labor $296, Belt $60, Antifreeze $13.95. Total $369.95. Have water pump checked while they're in there.
  • culigmculigm Member Posts: 4
    Well, took the '03 TLC to Toyota today to check out the buzzing/slight-vibrating noise in the steering wheel. After Toyota technician drove it, he didn't have an answer, so he took a brand new '04 for a test drive in the dealer lot and said it was making exact same noise. Therefore, technician said it was "normal"!?? I asked him if he was kidding me. He said no, and this was due to '03s and '04s having rack and pinion steering where all the older TLC's were ball type.

    So, the technician said he would call Toyota on Monday to confirm his analysis and meanwhile said this was just an annoyance I'll have to live with.

    I will not jump to negative conclusion on Toyota or the new LC, but I am very dubious of the whole thing (especially since my '98 LC went 5 years without as much as a bulb going out on it - superb vehicle).

    If anyone else has this noise/slight-vibration on '03 (or '04) please reply so I can stop losing sleep over this.

    Thanks in advance,
    Marc
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    New ones are rack & pinion? Sorry to hear that.
  • culigmculigm Member Posts: 4
    Yes, after some homework, I found that all '98-'04 TLC's are Rack & Pinion. Previous years ('92-'97)were Re-circulating ball. So, it appears that a Toyota mechanic (22yrs. at the same Toyota shop) was somewhat (very) confused. I can't wait to resurrect the subject where I insisted my '98 was Rack & Pinion and he told me I was wrong.

    Anyhow, to be continued....
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Since I have had my 99 LC (4 months), I have been using primarily low octane fuel, which is 86 where I live. I have not noticed a problem with pinging or performance until I was pulling some stumps out of the ground around the house on Saturday. Under a full load, in 4Lo with rear diff locked, the engine would ping heavily. The guy I bought the vehicle from said he only used regular unleaded since he had been driving it (last 30,000 miles). I am not sure about before that.
    The engine now has 121,000 miles on it. I think it is asking for better fuel from now on. BTW, the highest grade fuel we have here is 90 octane, due to the altitude (3500 + feet).
    As far as stump pulling goes, traction was still a problem. 3/4 tires just dug in. I, however, was not stuck, and easily climbed right out.
  • firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    Thank you Buddyboy and fj100. I will wait until i hit 90K with the 99 TLC with no worries of breakage (I hope). I suspect at that time i should CHANGE the water pump and not just inspect it.
  • pharden2pharden2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Land cruiser w/ the Nav. I understand that to update the Nav system you have to purchase a new DVD from Toyota. Has anyone done this and how is the upgrade done?
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    Anyone seen a 2004 yet?

    I stopped by a dealer last week and a salesman said "maybe in a week." They still had a couple of 03's.

    Bob.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Hank. I only run premium in my '02 and I think it makes a difference. Just got back from a 4 week cross country drive and got spoiled with the 93 Octane Shell et al, and 94 Octane Sunoco in the east. Noticeable improvement in mileage too. Got almost 21 mpg with some 10% methanol Shell 93 octane in MO. And only 1.60/gal! Wish we had that kind of gas and that kind of price here in CA
Sign In or Register to comment.