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Thanks.
Comments?
FYI: the front brake pads were down to the metal 25,000 after the previous change. "
I would say no to the K&N filter and yes to the Mobil One 5w30 synthetic oil.
K&N filters let in far too much particulate matter past the stock oem filter. For long term reliability and cleanliness for me that is unacceptable. This is documentable and comparable. You can do before and after oil analysis looking at specifically silicon (levels) migration into the oil.
The Mobil One 5w30 can be seen in light of it is a superior oil but at what price/cost? To me, I have been doing 15k intervals for app 660k and above in TLC's. The easiest way to see the dramatic cost reduction is to do a per mile lubricated % comparison! Depending on your interval and numbers it can be quite dramatic. To start you off 4 dollars qt x 7 qt=28 + 4 dollars (oem oil filter=$ 32./15000= .0021333 cents per mile lubricated.
Insofar as brake pads I have heard as little as 12,000 miles needing new pads. On my fj80's it has ranged from 30-50k. I have switched over to TRD front pads but haven't gotten the longevity results. They do dust more but the stopping power is SOTP increased!
I have an annoying buzzing in my dash too, BTW. Intermittent, near the windshield, in front of the driver. Chasing these things can be like stepping on a bubble in the carpet though: the process of eliminating one may create others. Not that that ever stopped me from trying....
HiC
After re-reading a post from someone about replacing the dash light, I realized I hadn't removed the steering column cover, probably why I couldn't get the cluster out of there.
Any help will be apreciated, thanks.
I am also thinking about switching to aftermarket shocks to get better handling and stability, but will they also make the ride very harsh?
Grantchstr, since I switched to Mobil synthetic, the oil change interval went from 4K to 8K. I remember reading it from the Mobil website that you can basically double your old oil change schedule by going synthetic, because it will take longer for synthetic oil to break down or something like that
My dead dino oil gets changed at 7,500 mile intervals (per the manual)... ah, it's best not to get me started on dumping good oil down the drain :-). Check out the oil wars in Synthetic motor oil and Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2.
Steve, Host
Yes this is true! I also realize the almost absolute resistance to going to longer synthetic oil change intervals. If you do change 5k with conventional oil, 10k with synthetic is not a stretch at all. While there are some conventional oils that rival group three hydro cracked synthetic oils, it is probably best to overcome one hurdle at a time.
In my own case, I had 5 TLC's all with 15k synthetic oil changes(Mobil One 5w-30) and absolutely no ill effect. I still have two of the five. On some 91,94.96,97,there was an valve inspection requirement at 60k. All were said to be within factory specifications with little to almost no wear. (these were serviced by dealer mechanics) If you are inclined to switch to synthetic, a good graphic comparison will be in the oil analysis. However, the cost effectiveness breaks down due to the 18-25 dollars for oil analysis. Suffice to say that you can also do oil analysis on conventional oils. But as you can see in the above sentence, it is easy to see that while one should do analysis on conventional oils probably more than on synthetic, 18-25 is not economically good when you can get an oil change for approximately that much. There are web sites that document oil analysis results of different synthetic as well as conventional oils, and of course different cars mileages etc.. I would read those sites and only do the individual analysis if you are highly skeptical or suspect a trend line problem.
This is a great resource you guys have. Many thanks.
The rational can be short! Or it can be long! Cue me in and I will respond accordingly!
The problem with things like this is that you have to take it on faith. Alot of prople spend alot of unnecessary money on products that are supposed to prevent rare bad things from happening that probably don't work at all. Companies love to exploit these kind of fears. Just ask yourself the question: have I ever had conventional oil, changed at proper intervals result in an avoidable oil-related failure?
(check out I don't like SUVs, why do you? sometime to understand the reference; we have great fun in there. Right Ruking?)
Steve, Host
Here is the link to the 18,000 mile Mobil One testing.
http://neptune.spacebears.com/index.html
I have! But in truth, it is a different discussion.
Also it is totally true that conventional oil changes done at normal intervals will lubricate just fine! I would consider giving up synthetic oil when conventional oil can run 10-15k between intervals, and more importantly fulfill the specifications by my oem examples!
In fact 12,000 miles is the OEM "proper interval" for one of my cars. It is also 10k for another. In so far as 3-5k intervals with conventional oil and synthetic intervals of 15k I say do the math. I did it for the synthetic. What you will find is for example 1. that if you do it yourself you will be under your car 2-4 times less 2. save time. If you get it done at a dealer or quicky lube you will save 3. shop time (actual dollars) and the 4. 2-5 r/t's to the place. You will also use (in one of my examples, 7 qt vs 21-35 qts)5. LESS oil and less filters. While this may or may not happen, 6. Synthetic oil has a far less tendency to sludge than conventional oil.
But really, not to worry, if your vehicle does sludge up, a hot solvent power Bosch cleaning procedure will pull the sludge out at 125-250 per treatment! Gee, this costs more than if synthetic oil were used in the first place, but that is an editorial comment! Also for sure, the major consideration, the up front price for synthetic is higher than off the shelf conventional oil. I read in passing that it costs roughly the same or slightly more to process synthetic oil.
My oil starts to get black at app 14.5k! At that time the motor is down app 1/4 to 1/2qt. I have observed this in four 80's that I have owned.
Color however as you know is not always a good indicator of whether an oil needs changing. It would be interesting for off the shelf engine oil to go through engine oil analysis at 1k intervals so one can graphically compare it with synthetic oil.
I also use Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 (in a diesel machine, but is backward compatible with the SL/SJ standards. The oil gets black as soon as it is changed. Of course depending on your habits and mileage, so far it is good to go usually till 20,000. I change it at 15k to be "safe"
I, for one would be interested in your experience with Toyo Open Country A/T's. For 160-225 per tire for Michelin's, indeed you get a fine but pricey tire. My dealer is quoting me 500 or 125 per tire out the door.
hello, I was hoping to find a spare one someplace that I could keep or to find out where I could download a copy. I'd like to have one showing the list of options, features etc. If you are going to throw yours away or know where to find one, kindly let me know - thanks.
Eric
I had asked (thanks vava) if the 04 camera might be retrofittable to an '03. Asked the local dealer parts guy for parts. He didn't know if the addition was readily possible, he called somebody and came back saying that you'd have to change the entire Nav Sys Multidisplay affair at a cost of $5000 or so. If that's true, not so good. But haven't given up yet, might be as simple as plugging it in and changing the ECU. I always take what these guys say with a grain (or a pound) of salt...
thanks
Eric
What's up with that? Do I need an additional electric brake controller or not?
thanks
Eric
If I can find someone with a scaner I will scan a copy of my 03 LC brochure for you. Please tell me your email address. You may email me directly instead of posting it here.
E9999, if you want an original brochure, you might be able to find one on eBay.
Vavavavolvo, some Sienna owners thought they were maintaining their engines and got sludge/gel (surely you heard about that stink). I don't trust the color or smell of used oil to mean much of anything - if you have concerns your best best is to get an analysis done.
Steve, Host
Just be aware that the six plastic covers are very expensive!! Back in 2001 I paid $39.90($6.65 each) for mine :-( The part number for mine was: 75557-60010. If you can make some kind of cover for the holes, you could save some money.
Now here is a wild idea that I haven't seen discussed before. Everyone knows that synthetics "last longer" yet people are reluctant to extend the drain interval because dirt still gets into the oil and synthetics get dirty just as fast as petroleum based. SO, what about extending the interval but changing the filter only at say 5K? That way you invest $5 and drain out the trapped dirt, but the $4 per quart synthetic is left in for another 5K or so. (Naturally you would add some make up oil to replace what was in the filter.) Years ago people would do a variation of this and change the filter at only every other oil change. (Of course, the interval was then 1K miles.)
I'm of an age to remember the filter replacement every other oil change and I did plenty at 6,000 mile intervals.
The problem with just swapping filters is the mess, unless you have some sort of bypass gizmo I suppose.
For more grins, research the comments that the molecular tails on synthetic oil break off just as fast as the ones in dino. That entertained me for a few days several years ago :-)
Steve, Host
"I understand the rationale for Mobil synthetic holding up longer and getting you your long intervals between the oil change - but do you change the filter at all during that time period?"
The filter change is pretty easy - just unscrew and replace, no?
Another point about synthetic oil surely is the fact that engine wear is reduced so one should be able to get many more miles out of the engine?
All of the covers over the bolts are just snapped on. If you look at the rack were it is attached to the roof, you can see very faint lines in the front covers over the bolts. You can use a screw driver to work them off, if you cover the tip with black tape and use rags to protect the paint. Just work slow and be careful! The other covers can be worked off just as easy with the screw driver. When you get the covers off you will see two bolts in each hole that hold the rack on.
Hope that helps. If you need more help let me know.
I guess it depends on the filter location; part of the mess is unscrewing a filter that's full of oil, and the engine oil may still drip out until you can put the new filter on.
Another point about synthetic oil surely is the fact that engine wear is reduced so one should be able to get many more miles out of the engine?
That may be a factor if your engine is attached to a F-16 fighter jet. For the typical automobile, I think it's way overkill. Of course, the most miles I've ever driven on any one car was 114,000 over 17 years. That was a Toyota too <g>.
ymmv :-)
Steve, Host
I'm condsidering two at the moment, a '93 with 154K miles for $10K and a '94 for $11.5K with 135K miles. Carfax checked out fine on both of them.
What does the group think of the prices on both vehicles?
Thanks, I'd appreciate any insight you can provide.
BG
Those prices seem reasonable to me. You can usually add 1500-2500 for each newer model year from what I've seen. That's why I kept looking at newer and newer vehicles. I started looking at an 84 and ended up with a 99.
You were correct in recommending 4WD test but it should be emphasized that the lockers MUST NOT be engaged on dry pavement but only on an off-road scenario with deep mud and / or sand.
Thanks!
When was the last time you used the lockers? Did you hear any nose from the differential, and could you tell if it was locked but the light continued to flash? The only way I have been able to lock mine is by turning slowly in a tightening circle. This, of course, requires having the rear diff locked before getting stuck. My manual states that the rear locking differential (mine's a 99 and only has a rear locker) should only be used to get unstuck, and to not try to engage it by spinning the wheels, so there is a little confusion there.
It sounds like the switch itself is working, but perhaps the gear or solenoid which actually engages the pinion is not working. I'm not sure if this is easily removed and tested or not.
Have you serviced your diffs lately (fluid change)?