Toyota Land Cruiser

ironside7 · January 2004

As a follow-up to my earlier message regarding the removal of a dashboard in a 100 series, the buzz that I mentioned (emanating from the center of the dash)only happens in cold weather (55 degrees or below) and gets better (but doesn't totally abate) as the temperature of the cabin increases. My follow-up question is whether this noise could be the heat shield problem found on the 1998 models (I have a 98). Thus, for those who had faulty heat shields replaced on their 98 (HiC?), did the noise from these shields sound like it was coming from inside the dash? IMO, it sounds like my problem is something other than the heat shields.

Thanks.

ruking1 · January 2004

" requested that the K&N filters and Mobil synthetic be put in at my recent oil change - but my indy said that the addition cost (at least double or triple) would be way way over the fuel efficiency dollars saved.
Comments?

FYI: the front brake pads were down to the metal 25,000 after the previous change. "

I would say no to the K&N filter and yes to the Mobil One 5w30 synthetic oil.

K&N filters let in far too much particulate matter past the stock oem filter. For long term reliability and cleanliness for me that is unacceptable. This is documentable and comparable. You can do before and after oil analysis looking at specifically silicon (levels) migration into the oil.

The Mobil One 5w30 can be seen in light of it is a superior oil but at what price/cost? To me, I have been doing 15k intervals for app 660k and above in TLC's. The easiest way to see the dramatic cost reduction is to do a per mile lubricated % comparison! Depending on your interval and numbers it can be quite dramatic. To start you off 4 dollars qt x 7 qt=28 + 4 dollars (oem oil filter=$ 32./15000= .0021333 cents per mile lubricated.

Insofar as brake pads I have heard as little as 12,000 miles needing new pads. On my fj80's it has ranged from 30-50k. I have switched over to TRD front pads but haven't gotten the longevity results. They do dust more but the stopping power is SOTP increased!

hicaira · January 2004

If it is the heat shields you will be able to tell quite simply: roll down your window and if the sound is louder outside than inside, then that may be it. If fact, IIRC, I couldn't hear the heat shield rattle with the windows up.

I have an annoying buzzing in my dash too, BTW. Intermittent, near the windshield, in front of the driver. Chasing these things can be like stepping on a bubble in the carpet though: the process of eliminating one may create others. Not that that ever stopped me from trying....

HiC

hank14 · January 2004

What about those annoying squeaks from the dash and door trim, especially when off road or on bumpy roads? Is there an easy fix? Has anyone tried any lubricant spray, Armor-All, or placing felt between the trim and solid surfaces? I noticed when I took the instrument cluster off, there was felt used between the plastic, I suppose to dampen or prevent noises?

After re-reading a post from someone about replacing the dash light, I realized I hadn't removed the steering column cover, probably why I couldn't get the cluster out of there.

tlcman · January 2004

Does any one know of a good block heater to heat a 94 FZJ80 4.5 I-6? I have been looking around for some and even contacted the local dealership, and Sleeoffroad and they didnt give me any usefull sources...
Any help will be apreciated, thanks.

grantchstr · January 2004

Can I get a block heater for a Fj80?

grantchstr · January 2004

From your report it would appear that the Mobil synthetic doesnt require as frequent oil changes as regular oil - is this true? I change oil every 5,000 or so with regular oil.

lzhou1147 · January 2004

Are there any real advantages by using platinum spark plugs? I dont live in snow area.

I am also thinking about switching to aftermarket shocks to get better handling and stability, but will they also make the ride very harsh?

Grantchstr, since I switched to Mobil synthetic, the oil change interval went from 4K to 8K. I remember reading it from the Mobil website that you can basically double your old oil change schedule by going synthetic, because it will take longer for synthetic oil to break down or something like that

stever · January 2004

I don't think K&N advertises fuel efficiency on their web site (although some of the testimonials may). Check out K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? if you want more.

My dead dino oil gets changed at 7,500 mile intervals (per the manual)... ah, it's best not to get me started on dumping good oil down the drain :-). Check out the oil wars in Synthetic motor oil and Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2.

Steve, Host

ruking1 · January 2004

"From your report it would appear that the Mobil synthetic doesn't require as frequent oil changes as regular oil - is this true? I change oil every 5,000 or so with regular oil. "

Yes this is true! I also realize the almost absolute resistance to going to longer synthetic oil change intervals. If you do change 5k with conventional oil, 10k with synthetic is not a stretch at all. While there are some conventional oils that rival group three hydro cracked synthetic oils, it is probably best to overcome one hurdle at a time.

In my own case, I had 5 TLC's all with 15k synthetic oil changes(Mobil One 5w-30) and absolutely no ill effect. I still have two of the five. On some 91,94.96,97,there was an valve inspection requirement at 60k. All were said to be within factory specifications with little to almost no wear. (these were serviced by dealer mechanics) If you are inclined to switch to synthetic, a good graphic comparison will be in the oil analysis. However, the cost effectiveness breaks down due to the 18-25 dollars for oil analysis. Suffice to say that you can also do oil analysis on conventional oils. But as you can see in the above sentence, it is easy to see that while one should do analysis on conventional oils probably more than on synthetic, 18-25 is not economically good when you can get an oil change for approximately that much. There are web sites that document oil analysis results of different synthetic as well as conventional oils, and of course different cars mileages etc.. I would read those sites and only do the individual analysis if you are highly skeptical or suspect a trend line problem.

grantchstr · January 2004

Thanks for the advice you give from time to time.
This is a great resource you guys have. Many thanks.

grantchstr · January 2004

I understand the rationale for Mobil synthetic holding up longer and getting you your long intervals between the oil change - but do you change the filter at all during that time period?

ruking1 · January 2004

The answer is no!

The rational can be short!

Or it can be long! Cue me in and I will respond accordingly!

vavavavolvo · January 2004

Has anyone had a car die or become severely damaged from oil failure...apart than gross neglect of oil/filter change intervals? I have been driving for thirty years and never have. I have never heard of one either. What grantchstr is asking is the all important question, namely, the engine still produces crud that probably should be removed long before the lubricants in the synthetic oil wear out. So what are you going to do?...drain the oil, change the filter and put the old black oil back in because you have some lab analysis that shows the lubricants are still ok? Ridiculous. I'll stick with tried and true oil change intervals to get the crap out. And with normal intervals regular oil is probably just fine as a lubricant. If somebody is enamored with synthetic based on lab reports, then go ahead pay the extra bucks if you sleep better at night. For me I sleep better if my oil isn't black and full of crap.
The problem with things like this is that you have to take it on faith. Alot of prople spend alot of unnecessary money on products that are supposed to prevent rare bad things from happening that probably don't work at all. Companies love to exploit these kind of fears. Just ask yourself the question: have I ever had conventional oil, changed at proper intervals result in an avoidable oil-related failure?

stever · January 2004

Thanks Grantchstr... I'm not sure that Ruking would agree with you, LOL. More like unsolicited opinions :-)

(check out I don't like SUVs, why do you? sometime to understand the reference; we have great fun in there. Right Ruking?)

Steve, Host

ruking1 · January 2004

"Thanks Grantchstr... I'm not sure that Ruking would agree with you, LOL. More like unsolicited opinions :-)"

Here is the link to the 18,000 mile Mobil One testing.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/index.html

ruking1 · January 2004

""Just ask yourself the question: have I ever had conventional oil, changed at proper intervals result in an avoidable oil-related failure? "

I have! But in truth, it is a different discussion.

Also it is totally true that conventional oil changes done at normal intervals will lubricate just fine! I would consider giving up synthetic oil when conventional oil can run 10-15k between intervals, and more importantly fulfill the specifications by my oem examples!

In fact 12,000 miles is the OEM "proper interval" for one of my cars. It is also 10k for another. In so far as 3-5k intervals with conventional oil and synthetic intervals of 15k I say do the math. I did it for the synthetic.

What you will find is for example 1. that if you do it yourself you will be under your car 2-4 times less 2. save time. If you get it done at a dealer or quicky lube you will save 3. shop time (actual dollars) and the 4. 2-5 r/t's to the place. You will also use (in one of my examples, 7 qt vs 21-35 qts)5. LESS oil and less filters. While this may or may not happen, 6. Synthetic oil has a far less tendency to sludge than conventional oil.

But really, not to worry, if your vehicle does sludge up, a hot solvent power Bosch cleaning procedure will pull the sludge out at 125-250 per treatment! Gee, this costs more than if synthetic oil were used in the first place, but that is an editorial comment!

Also for sure, the major consideration, the up front price for synthetic is higher than off the shelf conventional oil. I read in passing that it costs roughly the same or slightly more to process synthetic oil.

vavavavolvo · January 2004

I have never heard of a well-cared for vehicle "sludging up". If it happened to you maybe you ought to re-examine the idea of seeing how many miles you can get between oil changes with either regular or synthetic. Those OEM oil change intervals should be treated with skepticism, not accepted as gospel. I think these longer OEM intervals we have been seeing are simply a sales tactic...one manufacturer does it (I think GM may have started it with its Northstar engine) and everybody else follows to get customers. What does the manufacturer care if your engine/valves/bearings/rings have extra wear after warranty is out...it is actually in their interest because they stand to sell more parts, more service, maybe more cars. I wouldn't fall for that. One thing is for sure...and you can trust your own eyes on this...at about 5 or 6000 miles, the oil is black. Now ask yourself, what is making it black and do I think it is equivalent to oil without all that crap in it? If you want to avoid oil related problems then put your calculator down, get off your butt and change your oil when it turns black.

tlcman · January 2004

Does any one know of a block heater for an FZJ80 4.5 I-6?!?!

ruking1 · January 2004

For sure the conventional "sludge up" with 3k intervals did cause me to change to synthetic!

My oil starts to get black at app 14.5k!

At that time the motor is down app 1/4 to 1/2qt. I have observed this in four 80's that I have owned.

Color however as you know is not always a good indicator of whether an oil needs changing. It would be interesting for off the shelf engine oil to go through engine oil analysis at 1k intervals so one can graphically compare it with synthetic oil.

I also use Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 (in a diesel machine, but is backward compatible with the SL/SJ standards. The oil gets black as soon as it is changed. Of course depending on your habits and mileage, so far it is good to go usually till 20,000. I change it at 15k to be "safe"

gregory28 · January 2004

After spending almost $800-$900 for Michelins every 45-50K miles on 2 separate occasions, I decide to get a set of Toyo replacements for almost half the price. I feel no difference in the ride and am glad to have saved the money. Too soon to tell if I'll get the same amount of miles.

ruking1 · January 2004

"After spending almost $800-$900 for Michelins every 45-50K miles on 2 separate occasions, I decide to get a set of Toyo replacements for almost half the price. I feel no difference in the ride and am glad to have saved the money. Too soon to tell if I'll get the same amount of miles. "

I, for one would be interested in your experience with Toyo Open Country A/T's. For 160-225 per tire for Michelin's, indeed you get a fine but pricey tire. My dealer is quoting me 500 or 125 per tire out the door.

e9999 · January 2004

Rleong:
hello, I was hoping to find a spare one someplace that I could keep or to find out where I could download a copy. I'd like to have one showing the list of options, features etc. If you are going to throw yours away or know where to find one, kindly let me know - thanks.
Eric

e9999 · January 2004

hmmm...
I had asked (thanks vava) if the 04 camera might be retrofittable to an '03. Asked the local dealer parts guy for parts. He didn't know if the addition was readily possible, he called somebody and came back saying that you'd have to change the entire Nav Sys Multidisplay affair at a cost of $5000 or so. If that's true, not so good. But haven't given up yet, might be as simple as plugging it in and changing the ECU. I always take what these guys say with a grain (or a pound) of salt...
thanks
Eric

e9999 · January 2004

Odd... the wiring diagram for the '04 100 says that there is a "towing brake controller" built-in in the car. This gizmo receives signal input from the car brakes/stop lights and outputs to the electric brake pin on the 7-way trailer socket. Yet there is no mention that I see of any sort of adjustment that one would need for electric brakes, I would think.
What's up with that? Do I need an additional electric brake controller or not?
thanks
Eric

rleong · January 2004

Eric:
If I can find someone with a scaner I will scan a copy of my 03 LC brochure for you. Please tell me your email address. You may email me directly instead of posting it here.

stever · January 2004

I think block heaters are pretty much universal Tlcman. The city of Anchorage gives a bunch away every fall - I think they just have to fit in a freeze plug.

E9999, if you want an original brochure, you might be able to find one on eBay.

Vavavavolvo, some Sienna owners thought they were maintaining their engines and got sludge/gel (surely you heard about that stink). I don't trust the color or smell of used oil to mean much of anything - if you have concerns your best best is to get an analysis done.

Steve, Host

mobiweld · January 2004

Anyone removed the factory roof rack from a 100-series?

ccco1 · January 2004

I have an 2000 LC. I took the roof rack off about two years ago. It's something that I had no use for. It comes off very easy. When you take it off, you need to plug up the bolt holes so water doesn't get in them. I just used some old bolts with silicone on them. Then I went to the Toyota dealer and got the six plastic covers for the holes.

Just be aware that the six plastic covers are very expensive!! Back in 2001 I paid $39.90($6.65 each) for mine :-( The part number for mine was: 75557-60010. If you can make some kind of cover for the holes, you could save some money.

mobiweld · January 2004

I looked at mine last night and I can't figure out where to start removing the rack. Do you have to remove the inside roof-liner to access the bolts, or do you access them from the outside? And if so, where the hell are they? I didn't see any tabs where bolts would be accessible. Any help or pics would be greatly appreciated, as I have little use for the rack too. Thanks, Scott

blockislandguy · January 2004

The synthetic vs. petroleume based oils discussion rages on. But here are two things no one has mentioned yet: synthetics flow more easily and permit easier starting in cold weather. I for one am happy I've had it all month. Secondly, they transfer heat better. So, if you are running down the interstate in July towing and/or fully loaded with the AC on, wouldn't you want synthetic in your oil galleries?

Now here is a wild idea that I haven't seen discussed before. Everyone knows that synthetics "last longer" yet people are reluctant to extend the drain interval because dirt still gets into the oil and synthetics get dirty just as fast as petroleum based. SO, what about extending the interval but changing the filter only at say 5K? That way you invest $5 and drain out the trapped dirt, but the $4 per quart synthetic is left in for another 5K or so. (Naturally you would add some make up oil to replace what was in the filter.) Years ago people would do a variation of this and change the filter at only every other oil change. (Of course, the interval was then 1K miles.)

stever · January 2004

I just used a block heater and dead dino when I lived in Anchorage. It rarely gets over 105°F here in Boise so I figure I'm safe, lol.

I'm of an age to remember the filter replacement every other oil change and I did plenty at 6,000 mile intervals.

The problem with just swapping filters is the mess, unless you have some sort of bypass gizmo I suppose.

For more grins, research the comments that the molecular tails on synthetic oil break off just as fast as the ones in dino. That entertained me for a few days several years ago :-)

Steve, Host

grantchstr · January 2004

The idea of keeping synthetic in longer but changing the filter on schedule to take out the crud was what I had in mind with one of my previous questions - see prior post quoted below:

"I understand the rationale for Mobil synthetic holding up longer and getting you your long intervals between the oil change - but do you change the filter at all during that time period?"

The filter change is pretty easy - just unscrew and replace, no?

Another point about synthetic oil surely is the fact that engine wear is reduced so one should be able to get many more miles out of the engine?

ccco1 · January 2004

The rack comes off from the roof, you don't take anything apart on the inside. It's been a long time since I took mine off and don't have a camera.

All of the covers over the bolts are just snapped on. If you look at the rack were it is attached to the roof, you can see very faint lines in the front covers over the bolts. You can use a screw driver to work them off, if you cover the tip with black tape and use rags to protect the paint. Just work slow and be careful! The other covers can be worked off just as easy with the screw driver. When you get the covers off you will see two bolts in each hole that hold the rack on.

Hope that helps. If you need more help let me know.

trout14 · January 2004

Anyone with experience in the Denver area, could you tell me if they require chains just for commercial trucks or passenger vehicles as well. Have seen reports for chains several times, but do they ever require passenger vehicles to have them, and use them for the I-70 drive west from Denver?

tlcman · January 2004

Do you mean through Denver metropolitain or closer to the mountains? I live in Fort Collins and have never been required to put chains on but once or twice throught the mountains. Sombody else could help out more than me mostlikely. I would just carry a set with you to be safe. For a passenger car chainsmay not be the best... if it is a sedan or coupe FWD and RWD cables work better and are easier to put on and take off, 1 pair of chains/cables will work, just put them on the front tyres. If you mean an SUV then same thing only Chains work better, and a pickup....chain all fours with a load in the back. The C-DOT does sometimes require Trucks to use chains/ traction tyres, and in rarely may require Passenger cars with tration tyres/chains. Hope this helps.

hank14 · February 2004

Back in the summer, I switched my 98 Avalon and my (then new to me) 99 Landcruiser to Amsoil synthetic. They recommend 6 month or 12,500 mile filter changes and 12 month or 25,000 mile oil changes. I just did the 6 month filter changes. It was easy, the oil was light brown, but who knows what is going on inside the engine? I am going to take the companies word that this is the way to go. I may do an oil analysis when I change everything out in another 6 months. BTW- I am also using Amsoil's super duty oil filters.

stever · February 2004

The filter change is pretty easy - just unscrew and replace, no?

I guess it depends on the filter location; part of the mess is unscrewing a filter that's full of oil, and the engine oil may still drip out until you can put the new filter on.

Another point about synthetic oil surely is the fact that engine wear is reduced so one should be able to get many more miles out of the engine?

That may be a factor if your engine is attached to a F-16 fighter jet. For the typical automobile, I think it's way overkill. Of course, the most miles I've ever driven on any one car was 114,000 over 17 years. That was a Toyota too <g>.

ymmv :-)

Steve, Host

bgilgall · February 2004

Hi, I'm looking for any help the group can offer on purchasing a Landcruiser. What kind of things should I look for/avoid when checking out the vehicles. Are there any websites that I should check out too.

I'm condsidering two at the moment, a '93 with 154K miles for $10K and a '94 for $11.5K with 135K miles. Carfax checked out fine on both of them.

What does the group think of the prices on both vehicles?

Thanks, I'd appreciate any insight you can provide.

BG

hank14 · February 2004

Having been through the Landcruiser search recently also, here's my $.02. Read every post on this discussion and use the search capabilities for answers to specific questions. Be patient and find a one owner vehicle with the maintenance records. They are out there, but require some searching. Landcruiser owners seem to be good about routine maintenance (more so than other folks), which is a big plus. What part of the country are you in?

Those prices seem reasonable to me. You can usually add 1500-2500 for each newer model year from what I've seen. That's why I kept looking at newer and newer vehicles. I started looking at an 84 and ended up with a 99.

grantchstr · February 2004

I would say, depending on the age you are considering, that its important to check the birfield/steering knuckle repack situation. Do a search on birfield in this forum and you can see what to be aware of. This is the only really important issue that I have encountered over many years of LC ownership.

tlcman · February 2004

Be prepared to have a slightly underpowered machine, correct me if im wrong but if i remember right 93 was the last year for the small 150 ish 4.0 I-6, the 94 (which i have one) has a 212 hp 4.5 I-6 which is a vast improvement. Ok with that said. See if you can take them for test drives, look at the under caraige, normal rust and mud will be there but look for anything out of place i.e. broken lines misaligned shocks ect. then look in the engine compartment, with 120k+ miles on it there should be some dirt but not alot. If there is no dirt and it looks very clean then the seller might be trying to hide a leak from you. Drive the car accell quickly to about 35-40 then brake hard (in control of course) see how it feels through the corners and slight maneuvering (an empty parking lot is a good place to do this) next find an empty lot (where not to many people will see you) and test out the 4WD shut the car off put the transfer case shifter all the way into low and then start the car. at least two lights should light up on the dash, ABS and CENTER DIFF lock light. these are both standard as the ABS can not function with the center diff locked. Do either of these SUV's have factory or after market lockers on them? if it has factory lockers try them in the same fashion, go into the dirt lot and test the 4WD out listen for any sounds (try this with the window down) and make sure the 4WD is engaging. Now the 4WD with only a center diff locker will mean that power is supplied to both front and rear axle, this DOES NOT mean that all 4 wheels have power in a slipping situation, for example if the left wheel on the front axle slipps the power from the right wheel will be directed towards the left. Like water the power trys to find the easiest way out. OK your almost done, after you have tested the on and off road capability see what the general MPG is by the owner (if hes honest he will tell you about 9-12 MPG) the price is actually allittle high for a stripped down 93 (base price with minimal options is about 7,425) But thats with MINIMAL OPTIONS see for your self go to www.kellybluebook.com and dink around in there. hope this helps!

tlcman · February 2004

these are very reliable and excellent SUV's. Mine with 100,000 miles on it has never broken down or had any malfunction. Toyota dealerships and service departments are usually nice too! To go along with that these are also some of the best Off road SUV's around, in stock form they are just about as capable as the stock H1 (according to H1 and LC owners that i have known)

coupedncal · February 2004

The 4.5 L engine was actually introduced in late 1992 as a 1993 model. The previous pushrod engine that originally came from 62 series was indeed lacking power and the new DOHC inline six improved the situation a great deal.

You were correct in recommending 4WD test but it should be emphasized that the lockers MUST NOT be engaged on dry pavement but only on an off-road scenario with deep mud and / or sand.

tlcman · February 2004

thanks coupedncal i wasnt aware of that. so thanks! and of course the lockers should not be locked on pavement thanks for clearing those things up

cruiserg · February 2004

I have a 96 LC with 115k miles on it. Had an issue a few weeks ago while playing in the snow... I go it stuck on the frame with only the driver's rear tire touching solid ground. When I went to lock the FR & RR diffs, the front engaged fine, but the light for the rear just blinked on and off. After getting it out, I tried to engage the FR-RR lock again and haven't been able to get the RR locked up. Any ideas short of going to the dealer? I took it there when my check engine light came on and they could only guess that the Catalytic converters were bad and should be replaced (for $2500+!!). Needless to say, won't be going back to them for $80 checkups when they can't do more than guess.
Thanks!

grantchstr · February 2004

Cruiserg mentions the catalytic converter - I have a question as I havent had to replace one on my (109,000) LC yet (my Volvo needed one @ 85,000). Whats the mileage range for when a replacement is necessary, and how can one do it cheaper than shelling out $2,500?

hank14 · February 2004

Cruiserg-

When was the last time you used the lockers? Did you hear any nose from the differential, and could you tell if it was locked but the light continued to flash? The only way I have been able to lock mine is by turning slowly in a tightening circle. This, of course, requires having the rear diff locked before getting stuck. My manual states that the rear locking differential (mine's a 99 and only has a rear locker) should only be used to get unstuck, and to not try to engage it by spinning the wheels, so there is a little confusion there.

cruiserg · February 2004

Hank14- I used it last summer in a little mud and didn't need to do anything special to get it locked-in. While stopped, put the tranny in Neutral... shifted to 4L, waited for the center to lock (light on dash) then switched to FR-RR Diff Lock and watched the front lock up but the rear just blinked. I'm sure there are differences between the 80's and the 100's, but I'm new to this. Thanks for your help.

hank14 · February 2004

CruiserG-

It sounds like the switch itself is working, but perhaps the gear or solenoid which actually engages the pinion is not working. I'm not sure if this is easily removed and tested or not.

Have you serviced your diffs lately (fluid change)?

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