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It might jsut be "sticky" too that will be easier to fix. And for everyones info if the light is on Steady on the dash like FRONT DIFF then its locked but if its blinking REAR DIFF then its attempting to lock but is unable.
and hank thats not good to have to turn your vehicle to get it to lock, you should be able to flick the switch and it may blink for a while but once the drive train starts to turn it should lock.
Thanks,
Mark
Thanks,
fj100
What kind of coolant is in there anyway...looks red...is there any quality aftermarket coolant that can be used vs. toyota's?
Also I want to ask where can I get a new remote key. One toyota dealer in NYC has asked for 475.00 and another one asked for 280.00 for one key and programing.
What you are seeing in the schematics is probably a reference to the fuse for this connector. That fuse is also marked as such in the engine compartment fuse box.
Any advice on changing the battery would also be appreciated. My range is down to about 10 feet....
-make sure the positive side & negative side of the battery should be faced correctly.
-be careful not to bend the electrode of the battery insertion & that dust or oils do not adhere to the case.
-take care not lose the screws.
-close the cover securely.
That's what the manual said.
Thanks.
sunlight 5250K
HIDs 4300K
Xtreme Whites 4150K
Super Whites 3800K
Easy install and I'm only 150k below the HIDs!
Anyway, a few quick questions:
1. Axles...are they full-floating??
2. Lockers...are they clutch-type or mechanical (like Detroit)??
3. Any particular weakness that i should look for when buying it?? (aka radiator, leaks, etc.)
Thanks in advance. Apparently, this LX is very well cared for...no off-roading.
I traced the electric brake wiring from the trailer socket up to the left hand side kickpanel, and looked under the dash but can't see this controller connector. It's not on top of the steering column, is it? What's it look like?
I guess I have to remove the lower plastic cover above the pedals and under the steering column to get to this heater duct and the connector? (if so, how do I remove that cover besides taking off the screw on the left and pulling?)
Is that some sort of standard connector? I can't find anybody carrying a pigtail to plug in there (including the Toy people).
Sheesh, that's not the best location, Toyota!
thanks
Eric
The Kelvin (K) rating on these bulbs has nothing to do with actual operating temperatures. It also is not a rating for how bright the output should or would be. Kelvin (K) is a basic unit of thermodynamic temperature (colour temperature) used to measure the whiteness of the light output. The higher the number is the whiter the light is. The only factor regarding operating temperatures has to do with the rated wattage of the bulbs.
Think of the colour rating scale as a rainbow instead. A standard incandescent bulb in the traditional shape that is common to the old style reading and coffee table lamps is rated at about 2400K to 2600K. A standard halogen headlamp bulb is rated at about 3000K to 3200K. Early generation HID systems where rated at about 4300K to 4500K and current generation HID systems are rated at about 4000K to 4250K. Just as a reference point, sun light at high noon on a clear day is rated at about 5000K to 5500K depending on the season, level of pollution in the air and your location on the planet. A cloudy day at high noon can be rated at about 6000K to 7200K.
The red side of an incandescent bulb rated at 2400K to 2600K. As you move through the spectrum you will go through orange, yellow, white and then start to go into the blue and finally ultra violet. As the human eye sees light we all note that blue is actually the hardest to see with. This of course is due to the fact that blue light has the shortest wave length and is not recommended for good vision. Hence the reason that most current generation of HID systems have gone to a lower Kelvin rating. Rainy weather is the worst to be using bluish light in because the wet surfaces actually absorb the blue light and give you little return of information on what is actually there, sight wise.
The other factor into why something is brighter is a simple one, output wattage or intensity. Just because the sun is the brightest thing around doesn't mean it has the highest Kelvin rating. Cloudy days are dimmer than sunny days yet the cloudy days have a higher Kelvin rating.
A higher Kelvin rating has nothing to do with brightness as far as headlamp bulbs are concerned. Wattage and design of the headlamp bulbs and housings have everything to do with brightness and output. Some people like blue light and are willing to pay extra money for extra blueness and less brightness---and thus the 6000K and up market.
Anyway, the dealerships were offering $14K for their LX450. I checked Edmunds and KBB and both priced a 1997 LX450 with all options and 100,000 miles on the odometer around $11K to $15K (trade-in value). I assume that this LX450 was very well-kept; thus, the dealerships was offering top dollar (a rare sight in my opinon).
I offered to buy it from them. I gave them my business card and am waiting for their call.
So, no, i have not actively looked around for LX450...this one just fell onto my lap! Fate?? There was another LX450 on the Lexus dealership lot...and it did not have the lockers...priced around $18K with 88,000 miles on odometer.
BTW, i live in Texas.
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#Any 03 or 04 LC owners out there who can tell me if the "Booming Bass" sound with the engine running still exists as a problem? This was the subject of many earlier posts on this board (starting with page 1) and seemed to affect many....some took it to arbitration with Toyota. It was attributed to the stock subwoofer and the impossibility of independently changing its settings.
Does your stereo sound this way or is it a little piece of heaven, analagous to the place where we all hope to end up after we die and find out if there is a god or if this whole thing was one big joke...on us. Does your stereo suck owing to this bass boom? Is your life meaningless? Deep in the earth I rested now and cool is its hand upon the brow and soft its breast beneath the head of one who is so gladly dead...because the JBL stereo in his Landcruiser has a problem with booming bass that hasn't been fixed by Toyota and JBL. Is this a continuing problem...I beseech you '03 and '04 Landcruiser owners to respond to this plantive wail...
Had Goodyear Svc center perform the 30K mile maint (approx $500)just this past Friday.
This morning (Monday) was rather cold - it said 10 degrees on the dash outdoor temp. gauge. I was going to warm it up for her - when I started it, I noted that the check engine light and the VSC went on and stayed on. Turned it off and started it a number of times, let it warm up, turned it off and restarted it - to no avail! The friggen lights stayed on all the way to the GoodYear location - approx 15 miles. Let them look at it - they ran the computer diagnostics and could not determine what the issue was other than there was some sort of sensor fault - they subsequently went back and re-set the system and drove the thing on and off during the day - the damn lights never reappeared! I also have a similar issue a few months ago with the A/T warning light. Have anyone any idea was to what is going on?
Many Thanks
Anyone else has more info on this ??
tirechains.com
Please advise...
The 2003 does not have that problem. The stereo is fantastic.
I plan to get one as soon as one arrives in my area, but those earlier complaints worried me.
thanks.
I didn't know stereos were coming through with aux jacks on front. Are you talking about stock systems or aftermarket that have these?
On cold days, say 20F or colder, how many LC drivers (4.7L)get a fairly loud gear whine from the tranny area until the drivetrain warms up? Sounds sorta like planetary gears meshing. Is this a bad sign of wear? My 1997 4Runner never did this but was not the same system of course.
I put 285.75.16 on my 99LC and I get a slight wobble in the steering wheel at +/-65mph, I had the shop reballance the wheels and it improved but is still there. Should I have them do it a third time or is it partially due to the larger tire, the wobble goes away at 75mph.
Bryan
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/orat.jsp
Bryan
I had the "wobbles" on my '02 (my first IFS LC) and got a hold of a good balancer that passed on the "cone" info. He balanced them (BFG 285s) with about half the weight that was on them at first and I had them re-balanced after I got back from my cross country drive this past fall using the same method. Less weight and no wobble.
Never had any wobbles on my solid axle LCs. I'm sure one of the "engineer" types will be able to provide a more comprehensive and thorough explanation than I can (Idaho Doug?)
How's your alignment?
As to tire pressures--I've run 35 f 38 r for quite a few years on my 285/75/16 BFGs and coupled with rotations every 3K miles, I consistently get in excess of 60K tread life.