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Toyota Land Cruiser

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Comments

  • tuition06tuition06 Member Posts: 20
    My 97 LX 450 has 60,000 on it. Bought it with 30,000 miles with extended warranty til Jan 04. Never had one problem in the four years I've had it. The A/C unit failed last week. Dealer diagnosis was two fold. Number 1: The fan clutch failed providing inadequate cooling ($240.00 at Ray Catena Lexus). When the AC system was brought back online, a few leaks were detected, service and replacement of all leaking "O rings" for the fee of apprx. $600.00. I understand the costs involved. Is this type of repair and service expected? Appreciate your input.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    with O rings and there is no way that that should run a 600 dollar bill... o rings cost about 5 cents to 5 dollars, and installing them on componets is not time consuming or hard...Im sorry to say but they riped you off... but you should not have anymore problems!
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    The A/C compressor seazed up on my '91 Fj80 at approx 70,000 miles (out of warranry just unfortunately). I had to cut the appropriate belt in order to be able to drive. I havent repaired it yet as I guess I am too cheap to fork out well over a $1,000 for the fix. Still, its one of the few problems I have had - the A/C also failed on my Volvo so I guess its more of an A/C problem than it is a Toyota problem.
  • ddw78ddw78 Member Posts: 16
    Anyone had the pleasure of changing out the starter on a '98 TLC? The dealer is telling me that it's 6.3 hours because its under the intake manifold. Sheesh!! Is it really that miserable of a job to R&R?

    I'm not totally confident in their diagnosis, but the battery is good and it suddenly has developed a tendency to not want to crank the engine unless you give it a couple of tries. (crank as in the starter motor turning the engine over.) When it does crank, it cranks a little slow, then starts. Have about 100,000 miles on it, this is its first problem.

    On another note, now have about 30,000 miles on a set of Brigestone Dueller A/T REVO tires on it. They were a major improvement over the Dueller HS skins that I pulled off. Quiet, with good snow traction, considering.

    Cheers,

    DDW
  • ddw78ddw78 Member Posts: 16
    While fooling with gettting the starter done... I think I'll change out the timing belt (at 100k miles.) Just curious, does the 4.7 v-8 bend valves if the belt fails?

    Thanks,

    DDW
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    I'm not surprised about the starter estimate. I posted just a couple of weeks ago about this same problem on my 99. When I looked at the service manual, I was amazed what all had to come off of there to access that thing. I don't think I would try to tackle it by myself, although apparently there are rebuild kits for the starter. I never figured out why mine was doing what you described, but the problem seems to have gone away, at least temporarily.

    As far as the timing belt, I believe the service manual calls for replacement at 90K, and previous posters said you don't want it to break for fear of damage. Go ahead and get it replaced.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    Timing belt was changed at 90k on my '98 at it was ready. Look at water pump too. The starter, along with the alternator, are the components with the highest failure rate on any vehicle. As such, it's amazingly stupid to locate those items in areas that are difficult to access. Starter location has been a gripe from Lexus techs early on, as it requires the engine to be elevated to access the starter. Lots of brain-damage for a wear item like that.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    And to make it even more frustrating, it's often the contacts, not the starter motor itself, that are the problem
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    ddw78- Did you have your starter replaced? Did it correct the problem?
  • amsiotamsiot Member Posts: 2
    Hello, everyone! I just wanted to tell you all that I have learned so much by reading your postings in the past months.

    I got my 04 TLC for $53,783 (not including taxes) for the basic model with the four manufacturer packages. Does anyone know if this is a good deal?

    In addition, would you recommend to buy the extended warranty 7yr/100K for $1,600? It is not offered by the manufacturer, but a third party, JM&A Group.

    Thanks!
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    Thats a pretty good deal, although I dont know about 7 year 100k Warranty, the Quality of the New TLC's is very high, although they have simple and pesky problems like tps sensors. Also the dealership will try to jerk you around by trying to tell you that this is not covered under warranty, it might not be worth the 1,600.
  • mobiweldmobiweld Member Posts: 99
    This was posted on another Land Cruiser website, the topic is some guys buddy says his Yukon is a better vehicle than his Land Cruiser. Thought it was an interesting perspective:
     
     
    My cruiser was built by a team of men who start each day doing calisthenics. They are greatful for the opportunity to have a career and be middle class. They take a personal interest in the quality of their work and their company's reputation. Each one is virtually guaranteed life-long job security. The production methods used by their company are the benchmark for which all other manufacturing operations are judged. Their suppliers conform to these standards of production or they will not be suppliers.

    Your friend's Yukon was built by some UAW with a hairy back and plumber's crack. He hates being working class, and hopes that union wins some concessions or that the gov will increase tariffs on imports so he can keep his job. His back is killing him so by the end of the day his assembly gets a little sloppy, but who cares? His contract allows for 10 warnings before his firing can go before the committee for final approval. His company has an output sensitive business model and will make the most money if production is plentiful. The suppliers to the company come from all over. Lowest bidder gets the contract. His company spends a holy fortune trying to convince the public that it's products are professional grade or whatever.

    Here's a funny story I like to tell people like your friend: As part of a new quality control program instituted at GM, their vehicle engineers traveled to Japan to observe toyota production techniques.

    Each time after the Toyota engineers recalibrate their assembly equipment they test the tolerances by conducting a little test. They showed the GM guys this test. They place a cat in the glovebox of the cruiser. If the cat suffocates by the next morning they know everything is up to specs and continue with the producion run.

    Impressed, the GM guys went back to their plant and tried the cat trick with their Yukon. When they came back in the morning the cat was gone!
  • junjun Member Posts: 1
      I have an 1998 TLC 100 VXR (V8 engine with Active height control and adjustable suspension).
      Problem 1: The suspension control is not working with note of excessive bouncing "like the shock absorbers are not functioning".
      Problem 2: The active height control LOW setting is not working for the rear.
      The shocks were replaced just 2 years ago.
      A visit to the local toyota dealer showed "low shock absorber pressures"
      The toyota technical group in our locality advised checking the "accumulator"
      Can you help me with these 2 problems?
      Can you also recommend where I can get a shop manual for this unit? Thanks!
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    1st-I would think you can get the RM from your dealer, or via an on-line source.

    As to the other issues, you state the shocks were replaced 2 years ago, but how many miles have you put on them since then?

    And you said you've visited the dealer but.....you didn't like there analysis or? Sounds as if they diagnosed the problem for you, no?

    How many total miles on your LC, what country are you in etc?
  • albivalbiv Member Posts: 35
    I traded in a 2002 Yukon for a 2003 TLC Landcruiser, so I have first hand knowledge. Anybody that makes a statement saying that the Yukon is better that a LC is either a troll or is a complete moron. While the Yukon is not a bad truck, if you can get past the piston slap and tranny whine and cheap interior and GM's crappy service and lack of accountability, it's not in the same state when comparing to a TLC. After 1 year with the Yukon it had been taken to the dealer over 10 times for quality related issues, the TLC has been taken once for a recall of the throttle body. After 1 year of owning the Yukon I was well on my way to figuring out a way to dump it, after the same amount of time and similar mileage the TLC looks, feels drives and even smells like the day we drove it off the lot. There is no way I will get rid of it. I could go on but I hope I got my point across.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I have a 1991 Fj80 - 114,000 miles - and I have just noticed that the steering is now very slack, not precise as it once was. Anyone else have this by chance and at what mileage? Any remedy to recommend?
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    Bushings, and baring need to be re packed in the front differential. If you are not a person with general mechanical know how, this is not a job for you, take it in to get serviced. Tell them the problems and see what they recommend. It is pretty common on Fj and FZJ-80's
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Thanks...
    Cheers.
  • qualitynutqualitynut Member Posts: 36
    Toyota quality and reliability (reinforced by many sources; press, forums, friends). Look at Forums for any other brand and you will read about issues and problems that are common for most owners of the vehicle. Look at Forum for Cruiser; largest issue is that people would like better mpg. No design or reliability issues to speak of.

    The purchase prices of Cruisers are high, however, the ownership cost over years is considerably less (Edmunds can help here). Mine replaced a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee and even the insurance was considerably less (98 vs. 03!) Quality is expensive and most manufacturers (auto and other) will not invest. Starts with the engineering and then trickles down to suppliers of parts. Seems to me that many people have been accustomed to low quality levels for products for so long that they expect and accept them!

    Plan to keep the vehicle for many years and wanted the most durable, versatile and comfortable vehicle available. Although a vehicle for everyday use cannot be an investment, I felt that the purchase was a psuedo investment when considering the expected repairs, resale and owner satisfaction of the vehicle compared to others.
  • seattlecruiserseattlecruiser Member Posts: 45
    I just test drove a 2000 Land Cruiser. It is from an unaffiliated used car dealer (specializing in luxury vehicles coming from lease returns) and has 84,000 miles on it with one previous owner. It is advertised for an uncharacteristically low (in this area, anyway) $25,900 with room for negotiation. That's what 98 and 99 models are usually selling for around here.

    I did notice a few things that might explain the price, most notably:
    1. At its mileage, the big 90k service is looming.
    2. The tires are near the end.
    3. The brakes make the whole vehicle vibrate considerably and run very hot (pads/rotors?).
    4. (Not sure if this is normal or not) When I was going up a hill at about 30 mph, there was a very slight vibration and a definite high pitch whining noice coming from underneath the vehicle (transfer case/differential?).

    I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, so I'm thinking about taking it in for an inspection. However, any thoughts or comments by the boardwould be greatly appreciated. Also, is it a good idea to take it to a Toyota dealer for an inspection, or are they just going to trash talk it to sell me one of their used ones (for $5-8k more)?

    Thanks!
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    In my opinion, take it to a dealer for a pre-purchase inspection. It will cost $150-250, but will save you from overlooking some potential problems. If they have any used LC's for sale, use the opportunity to compare them to what you are looking at, compare estimated costs to get your proposed vehicle up to par with other comparable used LC's, and make your decision from there. Heve the inspecting dealership give you an estimate of all needed repair and maintenance items to aid your decision.

    If they do have comparable used LC's for 5-8K more, that may end up being the way to go. Just a thought.

    Have you owned a Landcruiser before?
  • seattlecruiserseattlecruiser Member Posts: 45
    Thanks for the advice. I have never owned one before, just been following this board for months. So I'm not familiar with the sounds that are supposed to be there and the ones that aren't. But I do know something isn't right with the brakes, the whole dashboard was shaking when applying the breaks.

    I think I'll spend the day test driving a few more to get a better idea of what they're supposed to feel and sound like and then take my favorite to the dealership for an inspection.
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    With the brakes, you can be assured they at least need new rotors (don't have them turned) and pads while they're at it. The noise from the drivetrain is not normal, but may be related to lack of lubrication of the driveshafts. With brakes and tires, you'll spend at least $1,000.

    Like any vehicle, knowing the past service history is very valuable. I would look for one with complete service records.

    Good luck with your search.
  • seattlecruiserseattlecruiser Member Posts: 45
    I drove a few more today, and the 2000 seems to have problems. The 99s I drove felt and sounded quite a bit smoother overall, so I'm putting the 2000 into the "if-it-sounds-too-good-to-be-true-it-usually-is" category. Regarding service records, I haven't seen a single one that had them. Does anyone know if Toyota has a central database where they could call those up by VIN (at least the major ones)? Also, all I have looked at so far were lease returns, am I correct to assume that Toyota requires their leasees to bring it in for every service? (I know I had to with my Mercedes M-Class.)
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I have had a Fj80 since new in 1991, and serviced it at a Toyota Dealer for years, however I was ripped off regularly as my dealer charged for service stuff that highly tuned cars need but LCs dont. Dealers charge a fixed hourly fee even if they actually take half the time or dont do anything (its not on the LC chart but on a Supra chart for example). After my dealer took three failed attempts to repack my birfield/steering knuckles I switched to an Indy and have never looked back. This means that my records arent 100% on a computer, and as I am not a great record keeper I dont have all my records - but my machime has been regularly serviced - at way way less cost than my "expert" dealer! I suspect that Toyota mechanics dont all have a lot of LC experience compared to say Camrys.
  • njpaguynjpaguy Member Posts: 55
    Lookign for names (if any) of independent TLC service folks in Eastern PA/NJ area ('01 V8).

    If not there, someone somewhat near who is well worth the drive. Thanks.
  • rich999rich999 Member Posts: 3
    My Land Cruiser Compact disc player is not working. Two days ago I tried to play CD#6, got the Error 3 message, then it just quit working. It does not play the CD, does not eject the CD, and has been staying like this until now. Before I bring it to the dealer I am thinking about replacing the CD receiver with a newer one that can play MP3 songs too. Can any one tell me which brand and model is the most compatible with the existing system. Thanks.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    you have a 1999 LC and you want to get rid of the rear seats?
      If I were you I would save them until you plan on resaling the Car, then you can use them as leverage for more pay
  • rich999rich999 Member Posts: 3
    Not 1999, it is the 2000 model. It is the optional third row seat which I don't need.
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Member Posts: 252
    That is exactly what tlcman meant. Save the seats and store them somewhere. 90% of the buyers of your vehicle will be put off when you tell them you cruiser only seats 5. Unless you know you will keep it forever and ever.
  • krn1krn1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 LC with 14K miles, best car I have ever owned, but worst cd player also. I skimped and did not do the nav system, got the 6 CD changer set-up. After 9 months, the cd player constantly displayed an ERROR 4 message, and would not do anything. At first the message would go away upon restarting the car, then it started staying on for longer periods. My dealer here in St. Louis changed out the stereo three months ago, the new CD player worked for couple of weeks and now is doing the same thing, although the ERROR 4 message is now a permanent fixture. The dealer is "waiting to hear back from Toyota" regarding the message. They are going on two weeks. Any thoughts out there.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    There have been lots of 'bad' stereos that Toyota has put out, It is probably a flawed system and a bad face/changer. The remedy that I have seen that works 100% is to buy and aftermarket system. Its allittle on the pricey side depending on the sound quality that you are looking for, but removing the old system removes the problem.
  • ddw78ddw78 Member Posts: 16
    Hank,

    Sorry for the delay in answering... been traveling and not paying attention (so what else is new?) Yes, I had the starter replaced, and it cured the problem (for about $750.00 after whining a lot.)

    I'm still chasing an anoying rattle off idle to about 1500 rpm that sounds like a heat shield on one of the cat-cons. My friendly dealer has replaced the shields twice and and one cat con for free under the California Emissions warranty, but it still rattles off idle. It stopped for about a week after each repair attempt, though.

    Cheers,

    DDW
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    DDW- mine just got out of the shop, same problem. I didn't see how tackling that starter replacement, with it located under the intake manifold, was a DIY job.
  • explorer001explorer001 Member Posts: 1
    I'm coming up on 50,000 miles on my 2000 LC (4 years). The shocks don't seem to "bounce" when I try to test them, but the wheels seem to feel every little bump in the road lately.

    I'm trying to figure out if it's just because the tires are about due for replacement, or if the shocks might be on their last legs also.

    How long can I expect the OEM shocks to last?
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    OEM shocks can last up to 150,000 miles and still work effectively, most work to about 100,000-120,000 but there are in very few cases "Bad Batches" of shocks that will go out after about 20,000...
    The reason why you are noticing more bumps it because you car is at its peak and fully broken in and drives slightly differently, and also you are looking to find a flaw and when you are you notice allot more.
    Hope this helps
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    The question I have is, Do shocks gradually lose their effectiveness, or do they work like new until they leak, then completely go out at some point, and can you test this on the vehicle?

    In my opinion, if you have to remove the shock to check it and there is any significant mileage on them, they might as well be replaced.

    (I'm just looking for a good excuse to order a new set of OME shocks).
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    They do change over time like any kind of shocks do, they will not always drive like they did the day you drove it off the lot. Although they do not deteriate fast like Fords shocks, or other cheaper company s. They will stay effective until they leak, but the effectiveness will decrease as millage and driving conditions increase or get rougher. Like I said my shocks were 'effective' until 120,000 miles then the rear left leaked and I decided to replace them all. You should not have to replace a pair with 50,000 miles on them, they are completely broken in and feel differently but they still work.
  • mt_vesuviusmt_vesuvius Member Posts: 3
    Anybody encounter a squeek somewhere in the undercarriage when hitting small bumps in the road? Shocks, springs maybe. My dealer said it's not the shocks, but wants to lubricate the emergency brake cable. Does that sound right?

    It's a 2000 TLC with 63K, otherwise perfect.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    sometimes the cable will hit the frame on small bumps making a 'clank' and maybe a squeak type sound. a squeak would possibly be a loose nut/bolt which would allow panels too move, I think you should try to pin point the squeak, does it happen on accel. or decel? turning left or right, A/C on or off, ect...
  • ironside7ironside7 Member Posts: 38
    I have a 98 that does the same thing. I've also noticed (from a pedestrian's vantage point) that other TLCs from 98 forward do the same thing, normally when going over small bumps in the road. I believe that this is a normal, albeit somewhat annoying, sound on the 100 series. If you fix it, please post the solution.
  • rich999rich999 Member Posts: 3
    I have decided to replace my original system with a new one. I like one of the Pioneer CD players. I can order it on-line for over one hundred dollars cheaper together with the Wiring harness and in dash kit. I am trying to find out how to dissemble my old system. I would appreciate it If somebody can tell me how to do it. Thanks.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Some things I've found to cause a squeak or rattle:
    loose running board mounts
    worn shock bushings
    loose muffler mount/brackets
    Crawl under your truck and tap and shake "things"

    If you just can't find the rattle or squeak after your best efforts--turn up the volume =))
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    I just had the starter replaced by Toyota on my 99 LC. There is another problem I am experiencing, however, which is apparently unrelated. Oftentimes when starting, especially cold, the engine will start, then stall shortly afterward. This can be avoided by pressing the accelerator to maintain 1200-2000 rpm immediately after starting. Once running for a few seconds, the problem goes away. It has never hesitated or stalled while driving, and this problem does not occur every time.

    Based on previous posts, I suspect it may be the throttle posiiton sensor, but am unsure. The problem with the starter not turning over has been corrected. Looking at my repair manuals, the instructions for TPS replacement include programming and adjusting with a Toyota hand held tester. The replacement sensor is $180.00 from Toyota Wholesale Parts. Has anyone tried this DIY?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Have you checked to see that all of your vacuum hoses etc are connected? Since this just started after your recent repair work, sounds like "something" might not have gotten re-attached?
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Actually, Steelcruiser, both problems were there before the starter replacemant. I suspected they were unrelated, but now am certain since the starter not engaging has been corrected, but the idle problem at startup is still there. I know it could be any number of problems- sensors, theft deterrent system, etc, but with the history of TPS failures, thought that was a good place to start.
  • quixotequixote Member Posts: 4
    I am considering a new 04 Land Cruiser. Does anyone have experience with the a/c in very hot desert climates? Is the a/c adequate?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Hmmmm, hate to see you buy and replace components. Have you cleaned the throttle body? I've experienced the idle problem you mention, but on my 80 series. Throttle body cleaning helped. HTH helps some.

    As to #3865, I drove my '02 cross country last fall and the AC worked just fine thru the CA, AZ etc deserts on 40 (this was in early Sept and it was still plenty hot--100+ temps)
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    Steelcruiser- what is HTH? I have used Techron, complete tune up, etc. What would you use to clean the Throttle Body? I guess you're right. I would prefer to wait until the TPS is diagnosed as being failed before replacing it.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Hank--guess I stuttered a bit with my reply. HTH=hope this helps. So I had hope this helps helps =)

    I used a little brake cleaner and old tooth brush on my 80. I didn't remove the TB to do it. I cleaned all areas I could reach within the port, then wiped out the residue with a rag and blew it out with the air compressor to make sure it was thoroughly dry. In my case, I had an accumulation of black residue (carbon?) (Also, use the compressor to blow out all the junk in the air cleaner). Maybe TLC man might have more suggestions?

    Fuel filter changed recently? Bad gas?

    Let us know how you make out. Hopefully, you can resolve this without replacing the $en$or =)

    Forget how many miles you've got on your 100 series, but I noticed the rough/low idle start at about 60K or so on my 80. Once I had it, it seemed to come back after about 15-20K more miles, then the cleaning routine above would "cure" it for another 15-20K miles.

    As for Techron etc, I remember umpteen years ago, I knew a guy who worked on exotics and he swore by Marvel Mystry Oil as an additive with every fill up
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