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I'm not totally confident in their diagnosis, but the battery is good and it suddenly has developed a tendency to not want to crank the engine unless you give it a couple of tries. (crank as in the starter motor turning the engine over.) When it does crank, it cranks a little slow, then starts. Have about 100,000 miles on it, this is its first problem.
On another note, now have about 30,000 miles on a set of Brigestone Dueller A/T REVO tires on it. They were a major improvement over the Dueller HS skins that I pulled off. Quiet, with good snow traction, considering.
Cheers,
DDW
Thanks,
DDW
As far as the timing belt, I believe the service manual calls for replacement at 90K, and previous posters said you don't want it to break for fear of damage. Go ahead and get it replaced.
I got my 04 TLC for $53,783 (not including taxes) for the basic model with the four manufacturer packages. Does anyone know if this is a good deal?
In addition, would you recommend to buy the extended warranty 7yr/100K for $1,600? It is not offered by the manufacturer, but a third party, JM&A Group.
Thanks!
My cruiser was built by a team of men who start each day doing calisthenics. They are greatful for the opportunity to have a career and be middle class. They take a personal interest in the quality of their work and their company's reputation. Each one is virtually guaranteed life-long job security. The production methods used by their company are the benchmark for which all other manufacturing operations are judged. Their suppliers conform to these standards of production or they will not be suppliers.
Your friend's Yukon was built by some UAW with a hairy back and plumber's crack. He hates being working class, and hopes that union wins some concessions or that the gov will increase tariffs on imports so he can keep his job. His back is killing him so by the end of the day his assembly gets a little sloppy, but who cares? His contract allows for 10 warnings before his firing can go before the committee for final approval. His company has an output sensitive business model and will make the most money if production is plentiful. The suppliers to the company come from all over. Lowest bidder gets the contract. His company spends a holy fortune trying to convince the public that it's products are professional grade or whatever.
Here's a funny story I like to tell people like your friend: As part of a new quality control program instituted at GM, their vehicle engineers traveled to Japan to observe toyota production techniques.
Each time after the Toyota engineers recalibrate their assembly equipment they test the tolerances by conducting a little test. They showed the GM guys this test. They place a cat in the glovebox of the cruiser. If the cat suffocates by the next morning they know everything is up to specs and continue with the producion run.
Impressed, the GM guys went back to their plant and tried the cat trick with their Yukon. When they came back in the morning the cat was gone!
Problem 1: The suspension control is not working with note of excessive bouncing "like the shock absorbers are not functioning".
Problem 2: The active height control LOW setting is not working for the rear.
The shocks were replaced just 2 years ago.
A visit to the local toyota dealer showed "low shock absorber pressures"
The toyota technical group in our locality advised checking the "accumulator"
Can you help me with these 2 problems?
Can you also recommend where I can get a shop manual for this unit? Thanks!
As to the other issues, you state the shocks were replaced 2 years ago, but how many miles have you put on them since then?
And you said you've visited the dealer but.....you didn't like there analysis or? Sounds as if they diagnosed the problem for you, no?
How many total miles on your LC, what country are you in etc?
Cheers.
The purchase prices of Cruisers are high, however, the ownership cost over years is considerably less (Edmunds can help here). Mine replaced a '98 Jeep Grand Cherokee and even the insurance was considerably less (98 vs. 03!) Quality is expensive and most manufacturers (auto and other) will not invest. Starts with the engineering and then trickles down to suppliers of parts. Seems to me that many people have been accustomed to low quality levels for products for so long that they expect and accept them!
Plan to keep the vehicle for many years and wanted the most durable, versatile and comfortable vehicle available. Although a vehicle for everyday use cannot be an investment, I felt that the purchase was a psuedo investment when considering the expected repairs, resale and owner satisfaction of the vehicle compared to others.
I did notice a few things that might explain the price, most notably:
1. At its mileage, the big 90k service is looming.
2. The tires are near the end.
3. The brakes make the whole vehicle vibrate considerably and run very hot (pads/rotors?).
4. (Not sure if this is normal or not) When I was going up a hill at about 30 mph, there was a very slight vibration and a definite high pitch whining noice coming from underneath the vehicle (transfer case/differential?).
I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, so I'm thinking about taking it in for an inspection. However, any thoughts or comments by the boardwould be greatly appreciated. Also, is it a good idea to take it to a Toyota dealer for an inspection, or are they just going to trash talk it to sell me one of their used ones (for $5-8k more)?
Thanks!
If they do have comparable used LC's for 5-8K more, that may end up being the way to go. Just a thought.
Have you owned a Landcruiser before?
I think I'll spend the day test driving a few more to get a better idea of what they're supposed to feel and sound like and then take my favorite to the dealership for an inspection.
Like any vehicle, knowing the past service history is very valuable. I would look for one with complete service records.
Good luck with your search.
If not there, someone somewhat near who is well worth the drive. Thanks.
If I were you I would save them until you plan on resaling the Car, then you can use them as leverage for more pay
Sorry for the delay in answering... been traveling and not paying attention (so what else is new?) Yes, I had the starter replaced, and it cured the problem (for about $750.00 after whining a lot.)
I'm still chasing an anoying rattle off idle to about 1500 rpm that sounds like a heat shield on one of the cat-cons. My friendly dealer has replaced the shields twice and and one cat con for free under the California Emissions warranty, but it still rattles off idle. It stopped for about a week after each repair attempt, though.
Cheers,
DDW
I'm trying to figure out if it's just because the tires are about due for replacement, or if the shocks might be on their last legs also.
How long can I expect the OEM shocks to last?
The reason why you are noticing more bumps it because you car is at its peak and fully broken in and drives slightly differently, and also you are looking to find a flaw and when you are you notice allot more.
Hope this helps
In my opinion, if you have to remove the shock to check it and there is any significant mileage on them, they might as well be replaced.
(I'm just looking for a good excuse to order a new set of OME shocks).
It's a 2000 TLC with 63K, otherwise perfect.
loose running board mounts
worn shock bushings
loose muffler mount/brackets
Crawl under your truck and tap and shake "things"
If you just can't find the rattle or squeak after your best efforts--turn up the volume )
Based on previous posts, I suspect it may be the throttle posiiton sensor, but am unsure. The problem with the starter not turning over has been corrected. Looking at my repair manuals, the instructions for TPS replacement include programming and adjusting with a Toyota hand held tester. The replacement sensor is $180.00 from Toyota Wholesale Parts. Has anyone tried this DIY?
As to #3865, I drove my '02 cross country last fall and the AC worked just fine thru the CA, AZ etc deserts on 40 (this was in early Sept and it was still plenty hot--100+ temps)
I used a little brake cleaner and old tooth brush on my 80. I didn't remove the TB to do it. I cleaned all areas I could reach within the port, then wiped out the residue with a rag and blew it out with the air compressor to make sure it was thoroughly dry. In my case, I had an accumulation of black residue (carbon?) (Also, use the compressor to blow out all the junk in the air cleaner). Maybe TLC man might have more suggestions?
Fuel filter changed recently? Bad gas?
Let us know how you make out. Hopefully, you can resolve this without replacing the $en$or
Forget how many miles you've got on your 100 series, but I noticed the rough/low idle start at about 60K or so on my 80. Once I had it, it seemed to come back after about 15-20K more miles, then the cleaning routine above would "cure" it for another 15-20K miles.
As for Techron etc, I remember umpteen years ago, I knew a guy who worked on exotics and he swore by Marvel Mystry Oil as an additive with every fill up