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Toyota Land Cruiser

17879818384101

Comments

  • cruiserlustcruiserlust Member Posts: 19
    Well, its been about a week and a half since we got our new LC and I have figured out one thing: My wife will give it up when I pry the steering wheel out of her cold, dead hands!

    She loves the navigation device and has already used it several times to find things - never mind that she has lived in this town her whole life.

    OK, I really don't want to get anything started here but should I get the SIMONIZ? I said yes to the dealer and they want me to schedule it, but I'm not sure if I want it now. The two reasons I'm considering it are that the car is black and has a very light color ivory interior and I also have young children.
    I've read on other discussion boards that it's not worth what they charge, but I haven't heard of any good alternatives... shouldn't I just have them do it and be done?
  • kevin107kevin107 Member Posts: 1
    I started to get violent shaking in my 96 tlc at 45 mph. Mechanic said only one thing could cause it, the steering damper. Sure enough, he removed it and said it was sticking. It is an inexpensive part, ($31) and very easy to install. Maybe this might help
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    I'm a tax code Section 179 buyer and need to get in under the wire by 1 Jan. To date I've looked at '02 BMWs as CPO units with extended warrantys (my thinking is all Ultimate Driving Machines should have a factory warranty). Used X5s are not cheap. An '02 CPO will cost you about 35-36K after all the pushing and shoving. This IMHO not much of a discount from a new one.

    As a result of thinkiing I was paying a lot for a 40K mile car with a fancy name, I've looked at '03 Denalis. ('03 is the sweet spot for Denalis due to it being the first year with 3 channel stability control and later decontenting). Used '03 Denalis are a bit less money than the '02 X5, have fewer miles , seem less problematic, but are less fun to drive and own.

    I'm in a quandry: I don't want to spend 48K plus for a new X5 or Cayenne, yet don't think that you save much on a used X5 CPO (there are no used V6 Cayennes out there yet). It is well known that the Certification process costs the BMW Center $1200 plus whatever parts and labor they put into it. The dealer seems to get an easy 4K over a non CPO car. Should I just buy a non CPO unit and hold my breath?

    What can I get for the mid 30's in a LC? What year should I avoid? How would you compare the cost/value equation of a used X5 vs. a LC? The extra room would be useful but $1200 starter motors (how much would one be for a Denali, $55 at NAPA?) are a major turn off.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Gee, you must be looking at a different section of the tax code than I am. Vehicles with a GVW greater than 6000 pounds qualify and some of the costs are deductible according to what % of use is for business.

    Have you ever been on a job site and seen guys with pickups and SUVs with stuff in the back? I assure you that they would not want to be called a derogatory name just because the IRS feels that investment in such a vehicle helps get the job done.
  • ddw78ddw78 Member Posts: 16
    Hi People,

    Since I last posted about my undercarriage rattle back in July, I finally have it resolved (after 6 trips to the dealer, at 106,000 miles.)

    It was not the heat shields... they (dealer) allegedly replaced two sets per the techical service bulletin.

    They also fiddled around with some bolts and hangers, then replaced one, then another catalytic converter.

    It was finally fixed when they replaced the passenger side cat-con. The claim was that it was an internal rattle in the cat-con. I think it was a broken exhaust stud that got replaced when they finally did the last cat-con, but who really knows? The vehicle is silent as a tomb under acceleration now, and Toyota picked up about $3,200 worth of exhaust pipe, cat-cons, labor, etc, under the federal emissions warranty, so I am reasonably happy (other than the week of my life spent in and out of the dealership debating with the service writer about how it was STILL NOT FIXED in iterations 1-5.

    Nothing else to complain about... What a truck; 106,000 miles and it still drives, rides, and sounds better than any thing new that I've been in lately.

    Cheers,

    DDW78
  • ddw78ddw78 Member Posts: 16
    For what it's worth, I have a set of the Revo AT's on my '98 LC. I have had them on for about 40,000 miles, and am impressed. I drive at high-speed through the desert in CA, then spend weekends in the mountains with lots of snow and 13% (really) grades.

    The AT's are pretty quiet, and were a major traction upgrade from the Bridgestone Dueller HS tires I pulled off. I still need chains on the ice on the steep stuff, but I seem to be able to drive through 12" deep snow on the moderate grades like it wasn't there.

    I am considering more aggressive snow tires, but will hate to give up the nice quiet ride on the other 98% of my driving. Have gotten pretty good at getting chains on and off.

    Cheers,

    DDW78
  • george7george7 Member Posts: 9
    I was torn on getting dedicated winter tires vs. a more agressive AT (which includes the REVO). In the end, decided for the dedicated. Figure I can run the AT's down to the tread bars in the summer (caution in heavy rain of course) and as I plan to have this LC until it turns to dust (at 2000 w/ 45K, should be a while yet) it is worth getting a second set of rims ($250 delivered on ebay). I live in NE and we get lots of ice so that is what really pushed my decision over the edge, nothing like real ice tires on ice. Ordered up a set of Blizzak DMZ3 275/70 16's. I'll post what I think of them after some miles.

    BTW 13% is impressive.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    Honestly ive never gotten too stuck with my stocks... but then again i didnt have those for more than one winter... I have to say the A/Ts are traction getter on snow but are noisy on concrete, and well almost anything even studs can be quiet on asphalt. The thing about A/ts is i have noticed that alot have flexible sidewals, which helps when tyre pressure is lowered but when going into turns on a dry road you can some times get a understeer starting because the tyre is rolling. If extream rolling occours you can cause a blow out or pull the tyre off its bead. (but then again you shouldnt run A/ts with out Bead locks IMO) Also A/T will lower gass milage, lager diamater (if you go with it) will do it too.
    -mike
  • wu8wu8 Member Posts: 6
    Does anyone know what could be causing a whining noise from the passenger side wheel. Very faint and only happnes when it's cold out. Again, it's very faint to the point that if you had the radio on low, you probably would not notice.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    After damaging my front end for the second time I finally put an Australian ARB on my Fj80 to replace the fragile "assembly" of expensive flimsy plastic parts which masquerades as the LC Front "Bumper". The ARB gets a lot of "Wows" and it also saved me around $3,000.
    Its too bad I didnt put on one of these on the first time my front end was damaged. I assure you that with this baby mounted there would never have been a second time.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    amen
  • steenh1steenh1 Member Posts: 28
    I've had a FJ80 for about 6 months... wife took the 99. I love it as is but now am ready to get off road a bit more. Looking to make a few mods.

    The ARB... what did that run you and did you install yourself? Is it something that you can attach a winch to later?

    For offroad, what would be the first mods to make. I'll be taking a step at a time and want to prioritize.

    Thanks as always for the excellent advice!
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    http://store1.yimg.com/I/cruiserconnection_1810_1600303

    It cost $650 plus a few extra bucks at my indy to install during the regular service. It takes less than na hour to take of the plastic end pieces and bumper and then 1 hour to install and wire. All the bolt holes match 100% - its a good thing :)

    http://www.4by4connection.com/arbwinbarfor7.html

    I would have done it myself but my tool set has deteriorated over the years and it helps a LOT to have it up on a hoist.
    I will attach a winch in the spring to pull some tree stumps on my property. In the mean time I dont have to worry about hitting deer anymore!
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    You might want to take it out as is to get a "feel" for it in stock form. Usual upgrades are suspension and tires. Most common tire swap is to 285/75/16 (approx 31") OME makes shocks and springs for LCs--and they're pretty widely used by lots of LC owners. You can go with either a "low lift" option of approx 2" or, the 3" lift option. They also make "J" springs which provide even more lift, but some other mods will need to be made as well.

    You may want to check out man-a-fre.com or sleeoffroad for more details.

    I had the 3" lift on my 80 and was very happy with it, though I would recommend the castor correction kit with that lift. Breather hoses and brake lines need to be checked and possibly extended with the higher lifts--and the brake proportioning valve usually needs adjusting after you install any lift on the 80.

    I think you'd be very happy with the "low lift" OME components

    HTH
  • coupedncalcoupedncal Member Posts: 252
    I can see folks who are big on running their rigs offroad to push for a couple inch lift but is there any other reason for doing so ? Does it provide any other benefit I don't see ?

    Just curious.
  • steenh1steenh1 Member Posts: 28
    All, thanks for the advice! I like the look of the ARB bumper and may have to bite that first... mine is dented anyway.

    For off-road, I've done some real basic stuff and have been impressed. I actually think I am dramatically underestimating what this beast will do. Never been in a situation where I felt even slightly challenged. I have looked into some of the off-road clubs and will be going to a meeting in a few weeks. I'm sure they'll be able to "challenge" me. Looking forward to it and many years of playing in the mud!

    Thanks again and I'll let you know how it all progresses.
  • ternesternes Member Posts: 13
    I have an '04 LC with 12,000 miles. At the 10,000 mile service I had the dealer check for a very small brake fluid leak under the master cylinder area.
    The service adviser said I had a leak in the ABS pump and they would order one.
    Long story, but they had my unit a week as they didn't order all the parts or correct ones before starting the repair. They provided me a loaner at no cost to me including gas.
    This is where my problem started. My brake pedal goes down almost halfway before the brakes start to engage. You can pump the brake pedal 40+ times, as stated in the owners manual when adding brake fluid to the reservoir, and the brakes will engage higher on the pedal for awhile.
    Prior to this work being done my brakes always engaged at the very top of the pedal. I have driven three other LC's and all engage at the very top.
    Does this sound like air in the system?
    The service adviser says there is no adjustment for this and infers it is not a problem.

    Thanks
  • ternesternes Member Posts: 13
    I need to clarify something in my above post.
    The owner's manual states that you pump the brake pedal > 40 times with the ignition key turned off.
  • mgreenemgreene Member Posts: 32
    I know that sounds low, but would you pay 20k plus far a 01 LC with 117k miles? I know I would be hard put to. My 2cents. On the other hand I believe the dealer low balled him.

    simmikie
  • mgreenemgreene Member Posts: 32
    Not to be mean spirited, but let see if I read your post correctly. You wanted to get 27k for your 01 LC with 117k miles on it, and pay 30k for an 05 withprobably less than 10k miles. If the dealer gave you 27k for your 01, what should he sell it for and would you pay that amount. Man, are you an optimist!
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    KBB trade-in value indicates approximately $20K and I continue to believe one would could get low $20Ks advertising through the paper without too much effort. $27K is a stretch given the high miles.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    I need a drivers side front Fj80 Flare......Fj80 1991 model. These things are fiberglass by the way so many body shops won't touch em to fix. So far I have found an outfit that will only sell ALL 4 Flares for $360ish. Any suggestions.........
    Thanks guys.
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    got one suggestion... just go ARB
  • zuma13zuma13 Member Posts: 35
    Did you know that the '05 Sequoia has a modified 4.7 liter engine that now delivers 282 hp? That is with 320 lbs of torque. If Toyota was able to do this hp increase with the Sequoia, why haven't they taken the same steps to increase the hp on the '05 LandCruiser?
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    Not only have they modded the Sequoia (using the i-FORCE system) but the 4Runner uses VVT-i to Increase the V-8 to about 255. I suspect that the Land Cruiser will have a new redesigned or, brand new engine next year when it is redesigned.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    IMHO, there should have been a new LC with the '05 model year. That there wasn't one and since there were no changes made, except making 18" wheels standard makes me think that these are really '04s ?

    I'm guessing that things were on track for a new LC this year, but perhaps Toy wanted to do some addtional tweaks to design and powertrain options? I've heard rumors of a 5 litre/300HP engine. Also, given the # of yrs between new models, Toy may have spent more time considering the rise in oil prices and the worldwide concern about that and fuel efficiency and emissions?

    Just guesses on my part, but hopefully we'll be seeing a blockbuster LC soon.
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    I have always like the looks and tire options that the 16" and 17” wheels equipped on the LC of years past, but now see that 18" wheels are standard in 2005. I believe they were pretty much a standard option in 2003 and 2004, too. I have read in other forums that the traction afforded by many 275/60/18 tires may be a concern in inclement weather, etc. The last thing I want is limited traction in a $55K vehicle that is renown for it’s off road abilities. Has anyone had any traction issues in the snow or off-road and/or experience with tire replacement options for 18” wheels. Would also like to get your thoughts on the perceived advantages of the 18" wheel?
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Don't know of any advantages of an 18" wheel, though I can think of some disadvantages. A 60 series tire doesn't afford much sidewall flex when you air down and I imagine they're more prone to sidwall puntures too. You can put a 65 series tire on the 18" wheels--at least BFG makes them for the 18" wheels.

     

    I haven't checked out what's available from other tire makers for 18" wheels
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    I have an 05 LC with 18" wheels. No traction problems yet. What is the reason to believe there is reduced traction. I understand that the overall circumference is the same, you just trade off a greater percentage of steel diameter for rubber diameter. I suppose that there would be less deformability owing to a shorter sidewall, but we're only talking about 1/2 inch on each side of the rim, which on a percentage basis is pretty trivial. I would be interested in seeing some kind of objective comparison.

     

    On this topic, I am interested in getting a set of dedicated steel wheels and snow tires. I went to tirerack which recommends 16 inch wheels (I guess there are few to no snow tires that fit 18 or 17 inch wheels). Problem is they sell only one wheel and it sells for $260/wheel! I am looking for a more utilitarian steel wheel for this application.

     

    Does anyone know where I can order less expensive 16" steel wheels to fit a 100 series LC?
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Member Posts: 1,150
    Supposedly, 18" wheels significantly increase road noise in most vehicles. Has anyone noticed this?
  • njpaguynjpaguy Member Posts: 55
    16" wheels for snows: don't bother trying to find steel rims to fit the TLC (you won't). Just monitor eBay. A set of 4 slightly used just sold for $50 for the set (plus shipping). More choices for snows in the 16" size.

     

    18" wheels: I believe Toyota went this route to enhance the "look" of the TLC without compromising vehicle handling. (I don't want to say Toyota wanted to increase the "bling" factor with the larger wheels because that's not what the TLC is all about). Having driven both the ride quality did not suffer with the 18s (obviously Toyota made some suspension tweeks). If you don't off-road, you can research a better tire for highway driving (either a performance summer or all-season tire) that will greatly improve drivability. And as mentioned in an earlier post, TRD/Japan makes larger sway bars for the TLC (e-mail me for info on how/where to get them).

     

    Personally, I use the Bridgestone Blizzak DM-Z2 snows (great on ice/good mileage for a soft compound) and the Bridgestone Dueler H/P D680 for summer driving (had to go up to 285/70-16). Superb dry and wet weather handling. Quiet. Not too stiff. In combination with the TRD sway bars changes the whole driving experience of the TLC.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Do you change the tires on the same wheels in spring and fall? If so doesnt that process reduce the life of the tires - I read somewhere that the life of tires is reduced by the stress on the walls caused by too much changing.........
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    Thanks! I was planning on exactly that Blizzak.

     

    Just took a look on ebay and realized that there is an additional problem: the 2005's have gone to a 5 lug configuration. I may be stuck having to buy the expensive custom wheels from tirerack, unless of course there are other 16x8 wheels which are out there with the same lug configuration.
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    Thanks Steelcruiser.
  • rcf8000rcf8000 Member Posts: 619
    I have an LX470 with the 18 inch wheels. Although I was initially skeptical about road noise, it's not a problem. The road noise is exceptionally low, even compared to an LS430.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Here's another good source for Cruiser parts from around the world. Marv Specter's a great guy and long time Cruiserhead. If it's related to Landcruisers, Marv will know about it.

     

    http://www.sor.com/
  • njpaguynjpaguy Member Posts: 55
    I have my snows mounted on a second set of TLC factory rims. As I mentioned you can pick up a set used on eBay for a reasonable price. May even be lucky enough to get a set of new takeoffs complete with new factory issued rubber! Just search for "land cruiser wheels."

     

    All TLCs from 98-on (current model w/V8 engine) have the 5-lug wheel pattern. Previous generation TLC had 6-lug pattern.
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    Thanks for the correct info on the lug pattern change. I will take your and Steelcruiser's advice and be searching for a better value in wheels.

     

     The guys at tirerack indicated that there were almost no snowtire choices in 17 or 18 inch sizes, therefore they were recommending 16X8 rims (the expensive one I referred to). In the past couple years the stock rims on the LC's were 17 and 18 inch....isn't that correct? Just wondering how far back in the 100 series I'd have to go to get a set of 16" takeoffs, and how I could know for sure that they would be correct fitment for an 05. I wonder if there is any resource that gives all the info one would need to determine wheel compatibility with a given vehicle. In this regard, does anybody know what "offset" refers to?
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    Thanks, steel. Just a few other thoughts and questions if anyone has a second or two. Does a 65 series tire cause any speedometer calibration issues? Would going up to a 285/60,65/18 help matters? Just wonder how much you can vary OEM size without having issues.

     

    Wonder why Cross Terrains and LTXs are not offered in the 275/60/18 or similar sizes. They are rated much higher for mud and snow purposes than the currently equipped Pilot LTXs. Maybe the tire options will continue to evolve down the road as more and more mfgs go up in wheel sizes.

     

    Just a little disturbed that Toyota would inconvenience the consumer like this when making the 18" standard. I understand there is said to be better on-road handling with 18", but the 16 or 17" wheels offered a plethora of options with respect to tires that can provide greater off-road traction with higher tire patch area. I just don't like the idea of having two sets of rims and tires.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    The 17" wheel, with 18" optional was introduced with the '03 model year. '98 thru '02 came with the 16" wheels. Offset relates to how far in or out the wheel "sits" when it's mounted on the vehicle relative to the width of the wheel.

     

    A change in the aspect ratio of the tire will alter the speedo/odo.

    For example, switching from a 275/70/16 to a 285/75/16 gives about a 5% error. There are speedo correction kits available

     

    FWIW, most 80/100 series owners who opt for larger tires seem to go from 275/70s to 285/75s. There are larger sizes available that will fit, but balancing them and keeping them balanced can be difficult. I don't know anyone with 17" or 18" wheels who have put on larger tires.
  • ternesternes Member Posts: 13
    I posted several days ago about the low brake pedal on my '04 LC since the master cylinder, ABS pump unit was replaced. I had it back to the dealership Friday and they don't think there is a problem but will have the division service manager look at it on his/her next visit.

    My question is this; when you are stopped at a traffic light, if you press the brake pedal moderately hard while you are still stopped, will your brake pedal go completely to the floor?

    I could really use some help on this from anyone that ownes a 100 series Land Cruiser, I need to know what is normal and what isn't.

    Thanks
  • vavavavolvovavavavolvo Member Posts: 110
    Mine doesn't. If it's any help, on pg 287 of my owner's manual is a section titled "Does your Vehicle Need Repairing?". They list a series of Important Clues". Item 9 reads:"Loss of brake effectiveness;spongy feeling brake pedal;pedal almost touches floor;vehicle pulls to one side when braking".
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    That's definitely not normal.
  • flyfish4lifeflyfish4life Member Posts: 103
    I think the move to 18" was made in response to Range Rover. Now pretty much all of their models include 18" standard (2005 LR3, 2004 Discovery) and the 2005 Range Rover has 19" standard and an available 20" option. Surely bling is not the motivating factor, but I am not hearing of many advantages for increased wheel size other than possibly enhanced on-road handling. I'm afraid the next generation LC may include even larger wheels in an effort not to be outdone by RR. Hopefully, I'm not giving Toyota enough credit for this move, but this trend is starting to get a bit disconcerting.
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    fly4--that's kind of my feeling too. Though they don't seem to have a covert campaign to overtake RR, I've gotta think Toy would love to have the LC/LX become the luxury SUV for the country club set. RRs have some sweet touches that I'd like to see in the next LC--like the contrasting piping on the upholstry.
  • perrymperrym Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm a proud new owner of a 98 TLC as of 3 days ago and was wondering if any current owners could answer a few questions for me. I bought the car from my Lexus dealer and it has 69K miles but no service history.

     

    1)timing belt change...when is it required? the owners manual didn't state it and i thought that they ran on a chain. has anyone changed one?

     

    2)common problems...i know that many same models have the same types of problems. what are they on this vehicle?

     

    3)tires...any recommendations?

     

    I'd appreciate any input that can be provided. I'm a very hands on guy and enjoy working on cars and plan to make this SUV last till 500K mikes.

     

    Thanks much!!!!!
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    comon problems.... none just make sure your fan belts are ok, timing usualy occours around 80-90,000 miles change oil and tranny fluid as recomended

     

    Tyres Michilene P265 (stock on FZj-80s and the 03-05 LC are P275 but for some reason i have only seen P265 on 98-02 modles, you could step up to P275 but that might put an error in your speedo of about 5%
  • steelcruisersteelcruiser Member Posts: 402
    Mike--not sure where you've seen the 265 as standard equipment. I've only seen 275/70/16s as standard on US spec late model 80s and 100 series that have 16" wheels.

     

    A couple of other maintenance tips--flush cooling system, change brake fluid, check diff and tcase levels and change as needed. Going from 275 to 285/75 will add the speedo error you mention. And don't forget to loosen the FILL plugs on your Tcase and diffs BEFORE you drain them =))
  • tlcmantlcman Member Posts: 220
    never said i saw them being standard spec, but its just funny that all of the 98-02 i have seen (while limited) had 265s and yea thats in the US, lets remember that I just live here in brasil for one year working an engineering project in Matto grosso do sul, and will return to my home in Colorado. I know all F(Z)J-80s were 275 and now im certain that it standard from the introduction of the FJ-80.
  • perrymperrym Member Posts: 2
    Cool...Thanks for replying guys....As soon as it warms up(I'm in Chicago) i'm gonna get under the hood and start flushing everything that looks bad...I just hope the dealer did some of it.

     

    As far as tires, i'll have to check and see whats on'em now--Michelins i believe.

     

    Thanks again!!!
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