Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
She loves the navigation device and has already used it several times to find things - never mind that she has lived in this town her whole life.
OK, I really don't want to get anything started here but should I get the SIMONIZ? I said yes to the dealer and they want me to schedule it, but I'm not sure if I want it now. The two reasons I'm considering it are that the car is black and has a very light color ivory interior and I also have young children.
I've read on other discussion boards that it's not worth what they charge, but I haven't heard of any good alternatives... shouldn't I just have them do it and be done?
As a result of thinkiing I was paying a lot for a 40K mile car with a fancy name, I've looked at '03 Denalis. ('03 is the sweet spot for Denalis due to it being the first year with 3 channel stability control and later decontenting). Used '03 Denalis are a bit less money than the '02 X5, have fewer miles , seem less problematic, but are less fun to drive and own.
I'm in a quandry: I don't want to spend 48K plus for a new X5 or Cayenne, yet don't think that you save much on a used X5 CPO (there are no used V6 Cayennes out there yet). It is well known that the Certification process costs the BMW Center $1200 plus whatever parts and labor they put into it. The dealer seems to get an easy 4K over a non CPO car. Should I just buy a non CPO unit and hold my breath?
What can I get for the mid 30's in a LC? What year should I avoid? How would you compare the cost/value equation of a used X5 vs. a LC? The extra room would be useful but $1200 starter motors (how much would one be for a Denali, $55 at NAPA?) are a major turn off.
Have you ever been on a job site and seen guys with pickups and SUVs with stuff in the back? I assure you that they would not want to be called a derogatory name just because the IRS feels that investment in such a vehicle helps get the job done.
Since I last posted about my undercarriage rattle back in July, I finally have it resolved (after 6 trips to the dealer, at 106,000 miles.)
It was not the heat shields... they (dealer) allegedly replaced two sets per the techical service bulletin.
They also fiddled around with some bolts and hangers, then replaced one, then another catalytic converter.
It was finally fixed when they replaced the passenger side cat-con. The claim was that it was an internal rattle in the cat-con. I think it was a broken exhaust stud that got replaced when they finally did the last cat-con, but who really knows? The vehicle is silent as a tomb under acceleration now, and Toyota picked up about $3,200 worth of exhaust pipe, cat-cons, labor, etc, under the federal emissions warranty, so I am reasonably happy (other than the week of my life spent in and out of the dealership debating with the service writer about how it was STILL NOT FIXED in iterations 1-5.
Nothing else to complain about... What a truck; 106,000 miles and it still drives, rides, and sounds better than any thing new that I've been in lately.
Cheers,
DDW78
The AT's are pretty quiet, and were a major traction upgrade from the Bridgestone Dueller HS tires I pulled off. I still need chains on the ice on the steep stuff, but I seem to be able to drive through 12" deep snow on the moderate grades like it wasn't there.
I am considering more aggressive snow tires, but will hate to give up the nice quiet ride on the other 98% of my driving. Have gotten pretty good at getting chains on and off.
Cheers,
DDW78
BTW 13% is impressive.
-mike
Its too bad I didnt put on one of these on the first time my front end was damaged. I assure you that with this baby mounted there would never have been a second time.
The ARB... what did that run you and did you install yourself? Is it something that you can attach a winch to later?
For offroad, what would be the first mods to make. I'll be taking a step at a time and want to prioritize.
Thanks as always for the excellent advice!
It cost $650 plus a few extra bucks at my indy to install during the regular service. It takes less than na hour to take of the plastic end pieces and bumper and then 1 hour to install and wire. All the bolt holes match 100% - its a good thing
http://www.4by4connection.com/arbwinbarfor7.html
I would have done it myself but my tool set has deteriorated over the years and it helps a LOT to have it up on a hoist.
I will attach a winch in the spring to pull some tree stumps on my property. In the mean time I dont have to worry about hitting deer anymore!
You may want to check out man-a-fre.com or sleeoffroad for more details.
I had the 3" lift on my 80 and was very happy with it, though I would recommend the castor correction kit with that lift. Breather hoses and brake lines need to be checked and possibly extended with the higher lifts--and the brake proportioning valve usually needs adjusting after you install any lift on the 80.
I think you'd be very happy with the "low lift" OME components
HTH
Just curious.
For off-road, I've done some real basic stuff and have been impressed. I actually think I am dramatically underestimating what this beast will do. Never been in a situation where I felt even slightly challenged. I have looked into some of the off-road clubs and will be going to a meeting in a few weeks. I'm sure they'll be able to "challenge" me. Looking forward to it and many years of playing in the mud!
Thanks again and I'll let you know how it all progresses.
The service adviser said I had a leak in the ABS pump and they would order one.
Long story, but they had my unit a week as they didn't order all the parts or correct ones before starting the repair. They provided me a loaner at no cost to me including gas.
This is where my problem started. My brake pedal goes down almost halfway before the brakes start to engage. You can pump the brake pedal 40+ times, as stated in the owners manual when adding brake fluid to the reservoir, and the brakes will engage higher on the pedal for awhile.
Prior to this work being done my brakes always engaged at the very top of the pedal. I have driven three other LC's and all engage at the very top.
Does this sound like air in the system?
The service adviser says there is no adjustment for this and infers it is not a problem.
Thanks
The owner's manual states that you pump the brake pedal > 40 times with the ignition key turned off.
simmikie
Thanks guys.
I'm guessing that things were on track for a new LC this year, but perhaps Toy wanted to do some addtional tweaks to design and powertrain options? I've heard rumors of a 5 litre/300HP engine. Also, given the # of yrs between new models, Toy may have spent more time considering the rise in oil prices and the worldwide concern about that and fuel efficiency and emissions?
Just guesses on my part, but hopefully we'll be seeing a blockbuster LC soon.
I haven't checked out what's available from other tire makers for 18" wheels
On this topic, I am interested in getting a set of dedicated steel wheels and snow tires. I went to tirerack which recommends 16 inch wheels (I guess there are few to no snow tires that fit 18 or 17 inch wheels). Problem is they sell only one wheel and it sells for $260/wheel! I am looking for a more utilitarian steel wheel for this application.
Does anyone know where I can order less expensive 16" steel wheels to fit a 100 series LC?
18" wheels: I believe Toyota went this route to enhance the "look" of the TLC without compromising vehicle handling. (I don't want to say Toyota wanted to increase the "bling" factor with the larger wheels because that's not what the TLC is all about). Having driven both the ride quality did not suffer with the 18s (obviously Toyota made some suspension tweeks). If you don't off-road, you can research a better tire for highway driving (either a performance summer or all-season tire) that will greatly improve drivability. And as mentioned in an earlier post, TRD/Japan makes larger sway bars for the TLC (e-mail me for info on how/where to get them).
Personally, I use the Bridgestone Blizzak DM-Z2 snows (great on ice/good mileage for a soft compound) and the Bridgestone Dueler H/P D680 for summer driving (had to go up to 285/70-16). Superb dry and wet weather handling. Quiet. Not too stiff. In combination with the TRD sway bars changes the whole driving experience of the TLC.
Just took a look on ebay and realized that there is an additional problem: the 2005's have gone to a 5 lug configuration. I may be stuck having to buy the expensive custom wheels from tirerack, unless of course there are other 16x8 wheels which are out there with the same lug configuration.
http://www.sor.com/
All TLCs from 98-on (current model w/V8 engine) have the 5-lug wheel pattern. Previous generation TLC had 6-lug pattern.
The guys at tirerack indicated that there were almost no snowtire choices in 17 or 18 inch sizes, therefore they were recommending 16X8 rims (the expensive one I referred to). In the past couple years the stock rims on the LC's were 17 and 18 inch....isn't that correct? Just wondering how far back in the 100 series I'd have to go to get a set of 16" takeoffs, and how I could know for sure that they would be correct fitment for an 05. I wonder if there is any resource that gives all the info one would need to determine wheel compatibility with a given vehicle. In this regard, does anybody know what "offset" refers to?
Wonder why Cross Terrains and LTXs are not offered in the 275/60/18 or similar sizes. They are rated much higher for mud and snow purposes than the currently equipped Pilot LTXs. Maybe the tire options will continue to evolve down the road as more and more mfgs go up in wheel sizes.
Just a little disturbed that Toyota would inconvenience the consumer like this when making the 18" standard. I understand there is said to be better on-road handling with 18", but the 16 or 17" wheels offered a plethora of options with respect to tires that can provide greater off-road traction with higher tire patch area. I just don't like the idea of having two sets of rims and tires.
A change in the aspect ratio of the tire will alter the speedo/odo.
For example, switching from a 275/70/16 to a 285/75/16 gives about a 5% error. There are speedo correction kits available
FWIW, most 80/100 series owners who opt for larger tires seem to go from 275/70s to 285/75s. There are larger sizes available that will fit, but balancing them and keeping them balanced can be difficult. I don't know anyone with 17" or 18" wheels who have put on larger tires.
My question is this; when you are stopped at a traffic light, if you press the brake pedal moderately hard while you are still stopped, will your brake pedal go completely to the floor?
I could really use some help on this from anyone that ownes a 100 series Land Cruiser, I need to know what is normal and what isn't.
Thanks
1)timing belt change...when is it required? the owners manual didn't state it and i thought that they ran on a chain. has anyone changed one?
2)common problems...i know that many same models have the same types of problems. what are they on this vehicle?
3)tires...any recommendations?
I'd appreciate any input that can be provided. I'm a very hands on guy and enjoy working on cars and plan to make this SUV last till 500K mikes.
Thanks much!!!!!
Tyres Michilene P265 (stock on FZj-80s and the 03-05 LC are P275 but for some reason i have only seen P265 on 98-02 modles, you could step up to P275 but that might put an error in your speedo of about 5%
A couple of other maintenance tips--flush cooling system, change brake fluid, check diff and tcase levels and change as needed. Going from 275 to 285/75 will add the speedo error you mention. And don't forget to loosen the FILL plugs on your Tcase and diffs BEFORE you drain them )
As far as tires, i'll have to check and see whats on'em now--Michelins i believe.
Thanks again!!!