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The 450 became the 470 in 98, and knowing what I know now, and after having my 2000 TLC for 5 years now, I'd probably still would have bought the same SUV. The only reason I wouldn't get it would be if gas prices were to go past $3 ($1.20 back in the days)
Interms of an SUV without full time four and third row, an eairlier LC or LX450 might be what you're looking for.
Actually, all Landcruisers (since 1991) and LX450/LX470 (since '96) have been full-time four-wheel drive. If you are looking for part-time four-wheel arrangement, I'd recommend V6 4Runner
LC/LX Upside: An extremely reliable and well-made vehicle. But looking at your needs, it seeme to be over-built.
LC/LX Downside: Poor gas mileage and relatively high cost of repairs if something does breakdown. Most people here are do-it-at-home people so likely won't realize the high cost of ownership but those who are going to be taking it in for repairs will attest to high repair tab. But since repairs are rare, the cost of ownership could be a wash.
Ain't it annoying? One (OK, two) of the best made SUVs out there are out of consideration just because they do not have my kind of 4WD...maybe Infinity will come out with a successor to the QX4, altho it would be well out of my price range until it was 2-3 years used...
However, I would recommend you go with the color you like best. Seems like the LC doesn't come in any colors that a few years down the road you couldn't stand anymore (unlike some Humvees I see around town in bright yellow or Jeeps in purple metallic).
THOUGHT YOU SHOULD KNOW THAT THE "COST TO OWN" IS CONSIDERABLY BETTER THAN THE OTHERS - IN MY CASE, WAS LOOKING AT A LINCOLN NAVIGATOR AND THE INSURANCE COSTS ALONE WERE $60 MORE PER MONTH - POINT BEING THAT THE LAND CRUISER IS RATED HIGHER BY INSURANCE STANDARDS IN SAFETY, ETCETERA - AND BCAUSE OF ALL OF THE SAFETY FEATURES AND SECURITY (I.E. VIN ENGRAVED ON EACH WINDOW, ETC.) IT RATES LOWER FOR INSURANCE PURPOSES.
CHECK IT OUT. I'D SAY THAT IT MAKES A DIFFERENCE OF ABOUT $500 - $800 PER YEAR IN INSURANCE PREMIUMS ALONE.
YOUR POST MENTIONED SOMETHING ABOUT A TORQUE CONVERTER CAUSING YOUR TRANSMISSION FAILURE. CAN YOU BE MORE SPECIFIC SO THAT I CAN UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU'RE REFERRING TO AND MAKE SURE THAT MY CAR IS REPAIRED CORRECTLY THIS TIME?
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME
People tend to ignore messages typed in ALL CAPS. I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK when posting.
tidester, host
mgreene
I hope I haven't totally confused you! I took many words to "explain" this. After reading this you may decide to grab a beer or two and hope it doesn't rain for several months!
I did attempt to do what you described but I only succeeding in busting a little u-clip that held on to the rubber section of one half of the wiper. I wish now I had just gone to a dealer to have it done, I am sure its easy but there is a learning curve - and I am at the starting gate. :sick:
Taken as an "average" vehicle my Fj80 1991 is valued by NADA at $7650 and by Edmunds at $3067 (Private Party Transaction).
Even the "Dealer Retail" price at Edmunds is way lower than NADA at $5269. Thats a huge percentage difference even though the numbers are small.
I think Kelly values are even lower than Edmunds.
This is an issue where I now live as the cars are taxed on "assessed value" , and the NADA values used seem to be out of step with reality certainly for LCs.
Comments?
I've heard that some books cater to bankers so they can justify making bigger loans. I've also heard that Kelley has a consumer book and one they just sell to subscribing dealers (and you have to be careful which drawer the salesperson open when they start talking about the book price, since every drawer has a different book).
Steve, Host
I am removing the running boards from my cruiser and was wondering if anyone had a resource to buy the front mud guards.
Thanks
What should I look for?
When will the brakes need replacing?
What kind of real world gas mileage do you guys get, both city and hwy?
Thanks!
PS. What would be a good price to pay, they are asking $49,000?
Does anyone know if tire stores will install 285s? As in 285-70-16s? I was just wondering from the standpoint of tire warranties vs. manufacturer specs.
I figured that one size up or down might not be a big deal, but I do realize that going one size up could be more of a problem potentially with things like clearance, rubbing, etc.
Does anyone know if that can be done without having to change anything else?
Below is a web site so you can do the calculation and get the objective numbers.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
As for price, yes they are more expensive. However, i learned that buying tires is like buying cars - be willing to walk and they will chase you out the door offering you lower prices. I paid $699 for my set - out the door. I was originally quoted $825.
Re: repair manual. Factory is probably the best, however, for the things you want to do you may not need to spend the $$$ for the factory manuals. Maybe these manuals are available in your public library?
Now what I need to know is there anywhere to get a cargo area cover to hide items from people looking into the rear windows. I will probably never use the 3rd row seats and can remove them. I will carry tools back there and would feel more comfortable that they were not out in the open to temp anyone. I asked the dealer's parts department and they said they did not know of anything for a LC. Do you guys know of anything?
Replace transmission fluid - $80
Replace radiator fluid - $80
Replace power steering fluid - $65
Clean fuel system - $55
Replace front differential fluid - $63
Replace rear differential fluid - $24
Replace transfer case fluid - $63
Replace air filter - $15
I got this list and prices from one of those rapid oil change shops. I question the need for a fuel system cleaning because the engine seems to run smooth. I have been averaging 14.5 MPG city and 15.6 MPG highway. I also question the need for the power steering fluid replacement as it's not mentioned in the maintenance manual as something that needs replacing. However the shop did a color test on the fluid which showed the oil has broken down. Any input is greatly appreciated.
The main reason I am leaning toward the '97 is I have a line on one in excellent condition, 107k, just had the major maintenance done (timing belt etc.) for $13k. It is a "friend of a friend" so I am very comfortable with the history and care of the vehicle.
Thanks for your input.
As for other fluids, if you're planning on keeping this rig for a long time, invest now in synthetic gear oil and transmission fluids (Mobil 1). Your truck will love you for this. My rig (01 TLC w/119k miles) has really only needed regularly scheduled maintenance. I also do Mobil 1 for the all oil changes.
Good luck with your purchase!