Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Any Ideas?? This happen EVERY morning!
When we had baught the car it took a little reving to get the transmittion to engage, but then it was fine after it had warmed up. Any advice ?
We'll see what happens....
2000 cougar V 6 auto , 55,000 mi -- steady 70 mph , after 4-5 miles will Jerk /shudder hard a couple times , engine tach will go from like 2800 to 4000 rpm, sometimes 5000 . . . then OK for 3 -5 miles, does it again. Does not do it with short drives, at lower speeds like to work in morning.
New fuel filter, transm oil -- 2 shops couldn't find anything. Maybe heat related , I've heard hot trans oil is very bad - does the auto trans oil cooler have a thermostat ??? I'm actually thinking bad computer , trans can't decide what gear it wants to be in. wouldn't that show up on shop check of faults ???
service bull # 042107 - date Dec 04 , NHTSA # 1001 4086
B> '97 Taurus (red). Just bought it don't know it's history. Engine is good. Have to rev it and after 5 or 6 seconds it will start to move. Can get up to 20mph, but it won't shift up. Reverse acts the same way. I've changed the fluid and filter. Possibilities? bad bands? weak pump?
Is there any way to check if its a good one before I install it? And, what is the
best procedure for dropping the current trans?
I am new to this forum and just started to work on my 2006 Ford Taurus SE. I am not an expert mechanic, and don't have much experience fixing cars - but I do enjoy it and have the patience to persevere.
The car is leaking transmission fluid. I believe this is because the transmission pan is no longer sealed well, due to an impact on it while driving. So I need to change the pan, gasket, and filter.
As I got ready to do this work, I noticed one part that looks like a think circular plate is somewhat loose: I can move it with my hand. There's a space between it and another part in the transmission. Also, a couple of bolts seem to be missing.
I have a short YouTube video which more clearly shows what the problem is. Please take a look at it at this link:
Transmission Pan and Concerns Video
Should I be concerned about this? If so, what should be done?
Thanks,
JPG.
only $ 80. for part, $200. labor. drove 35 mi right after repair, no problem. drove 90 miles today non stop, mostly 60 mph , no problem. fixed.
Why the Merc dealer I bought car from new couldn't fix ...
same solution or diff?
Rebel Jew
Today my daughter called me and said her 2003 Ford Taurus was doing the same thing. Put it in any gear and it just like being in neutral. I know that its the torque converter on this one too.
Has anyone else had these problems and has anyone had any luck getting Ford to help out?
I hooked up a Snap-On scan tool, and watched the shift solenoids as it wasn't a constant thing at first, but became more common and hit the point where when you were driving it would "drop out of gear" and into neutral, and then back into gear.
So when in park, the solenoids read:
A: OFF
B: ON
C: OFF
When in drive (or 1st), when the car *would* go the solenoids read:
A: ON
B: ON
C: OFF
As you drove slowly around the yard, the car would drop back into neutral and the reader showed the solenoids were in the first list.. when it started moving again it showed the solenoids were now in the second list.. and it would keep doing this for a minute or two before it just got "stuck" in neutral and wouldn't move (and the solenoids were back to the first list.. same as in Park)
I tried switching solenoid A with solenoid C to see if that made a difference.. and it didn't. Also, there's no Reverse anymore (this was the case even before I changed solenoid A and C)
The kicker to me is, if you unplug the main harness to the transmission (located right next to the side pan cover.. white plug, flat on one side, and curved the rest.. wires from this plug lead internally to the solenoids and TCS), you get drive back (I forget, but don't think reverse is there even with the harness unplugged).
This sound like a sensor, solenoid, or broken wire to me.. but I don't have a factory service manual to find any diagnostic steps and/or suggestions as to what may be wrong.
There are no codes, unless you unplug the harness which obviously spits out codes for solenoids A, B, C and also the Torque Converter Solenoid or whatever.
Has anyone experienced this before, and what did you do to rectify the situation? I don't want to replace the transmission as it's a car she no longer uses, I'd rather mess around with the thing and try to fix it "the hard way" lol.
Thanks for any info, input, help, links, whatever you can pass my way.
HC
Either the shaft binds and then breaks, or the torque converted is defective. In my case it was definitely a defective torque converter, but I let them replace both components anyway. They convinced me they knew exactly what to do.
After circulating a flush chemical treatment to remove any particles that might adversely affect the operation of the valves in the transmission, followed by a 30 quart flush of transmission fluid and $1291 later, I was on the road again. I currently have 154,000 miles with no subsequent issues.
I wished Ford would have covered some of the cost, as my dealership admitted that this is a very common problem on the 2003 Taurus. Depending on where you happen to get stuck, it could be a safety issue.
In an unrelated incident only 3,000 miles in late December 2010, my Camshaft Synchronizer Shaft Assembly "chirped" so badly in the cold, that the engine almost stalled and set a Check Engine Light Code.
When they removed the shaft, it looked like a piece of varnished wood. That told me the 5W-20 Synthetic Blend specified by Ford was the wrong engine oil. I switched to Castrol Edge 5W-20 and the car runs better with a slight increase in mileage and no chirping.
I would recommend you use the full synthetic oil of your choice in your daughter's 2003 Taurus, and NEVER use that Syn-Blend stuff again.
Also, noticed a squeaking sound, and it has gotten worse lately. Vehicle has ~70k miles. Engine and pretty much everything else are in good shape, no indicator lights.
Trying to figure out what to do. Local shop gave it a test drive and pounded the hell out of the accelerator (likely making whatever it is worse) and going "see, it's slipping gears" when it wasn't. It only slips that first gear.
Transmission fluid is black, and was never replaced. Maybe past the time that can be done without doing damage.
Looking for an idea. I mean, yeah, one could replace the whole transmission, but I'm not sure its even possible to find a warrantied certified transmission for the vehicle at its age (and I'd want that warranty if I'm shelling out that much).
I don't think it needs all that. I'm trying to filter out experts versus thieves. The mechanic I trust says, "drives fine except that, but I don't know enough about transmissions to diagnose it." Well, at least he's honest.
He called today after having the car for three days and is now certain that our catalytic converters are clogged? This frustrates me, as we specifically asked him to check the cat's the first time the car was there and they were "fine" That was a month ago, now they are bad?
He said he can do it for us for $500.00, when I told the price to another shop in town the guy told us the trans shop is probably cutting us a deal because he knew that he did wrong in the first place with the cats/trans ordeal but doesn't want to say so. Either way we don't have the 500.00 to put into it, after putting in 2,000.00 for a rebuilt trans/alternator.
This '99 taurus is costing us approx. 300.00 a month to maintain .. if only we could go back in time and pass it up.