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Probably a Model A has such low compression that it wouldn't break anything, but it might sprain you. Cranking a big 6 would be riskier.
I used to crank engines on airplanes in Alaska. That was fun, as you had both backfire and a guillotine to worry about. Prop starting was even more fun, but up there, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do, as John Wayne would say.
Another fun experience is kick starting a 441 BSA Lightning motorcycle. That's a one cylinder bike. So it's like cranking a 3.0 V-6. Fortunately they provide a compression release lever.
All of this has me looking on ebay. Quite a few of them there and not that inexpensive. There was a nice sedan I liked until I read it had been Mickey Moused up with a Pinto engine!
Not one of those dumb Shay replicas either!
Besides half the fun of a Model A is fixing it up.
it is a gt convertible, looks new, has about 33k on it, runs great, but needs maintenance. basically, it is really, really original.
i am thinking about agreed value with my regular insurer.
my number is about 10k. from what i understand, i have to get an appraisal.
what is a ballpark figure for one, and is it worth it?
my original dream is about to be fullfilled. my youngest kid will be able to drive it starting monday(if the weather is good).
i really like this one and it is located only a couple of hours from where i live. a year older and 5k more miles, but limited edition:
7 up
pretty close to what i have, but 2 years newer, leather, 10k less miles:
very white
ebay: i have black top, black cloth
The other comparables aren't really accurate. The one car is two years newer, and these Mustangs behave like used cars in price, not like collectibles....so the newer they are, the more they are worth. A 93 is worth more than a 91 by about $1,500 to $2,000 dollars.
As for the 7-Up edition, that's worth way more than your car, so no good on comps there.
Oh I'm sorry you asked about price of an appraisal as well. That usually runs from $150 to $225, depending on who does it and how well. Sometimes a dealer will write something up for you for cheap, but that's a bit risky when it comes to settlement time, and it's possible your insurance company won't take such a "brief" appraisal. But maybe they will.
I'm kind of surprised they would even write an "agreed upon" value. Usually it's just ACV or "stated value" with these larger companies.
That might be part of it, but at that point in time, I think the idea of just having a car was still considered a luxury, and we hadn't really progressed to the point of a roomy, comfortable car yet. At least, not for the driver...sure, there were luxury cars and limos built that were great for the back seat passengers, but probably torture for the chauffeur. Remember at that time, cars were still evolving from the old stagecoaches and wagons that came before them.
Even in the 40's and early 50's, a lot of cars really didn't have a whole lot of legroom. I remember sitting in a late 40's Buick that was for sale at a swap meet, and was really disappointed at how cramped it was. The seat was high up, but way too close to the pedals and firewall to be of any use to me. And that bus steering wheel took up a lot of space. Really makes you wonder how heavyset people could squeeze behind the wheel back in those days.
i will just leave it as is. the local agents can't even get which vehicles i own correct.
91 stangs have a forged piston engine, which was downgraded the next year.
full insurance goes into effect tomorrow, but the weather for the next week or so, doesn't look to good, so it will just sit in the garage for a while longer.
It would be good to get an agreed upon policy on the car; otherwise, if its ACV policy they're gonna offer you $3,500 bucks for it, and that's not good.
nothing the matter with poking arounds hemmings for a while though!
I'd love to have an insurance company named SNEED. It's like nobody would mess with you. "OH YEAH? Well I got SNEED insurance buddy, so you are dead meat!"
• American Collectors Insurance Inc.
498 Kings Highway N, P.O. Box 8343
Cherry Hill, NJ 08034
800-360-2277, 856-779-7212
www.AmericanCollectors.com
• American Hobbyist Ins. Agency
2501 SE Aviation Way
Stuart, FL 34996
800-395-4835, 772-287-9363
www.AmericanHobbyist.com
• Condon & Skelly
121 E. Kings Highway, Suite 203
Maple Shade, NJ 08052
800-257-9496
www.condonskelly.com
• Great American Insurance
Classic Collectors Program
P.O. Box 429569
Cincinnati, OH 45242-9569
800-252-5233
www.classiccollectors.com
• J.C. Taylor Antique Automobile Ins. Agency
320 South 69th St.
Upper Darby, PA 19082
800-345-8290, 610-853-1300
www.jctaylor.com
• Sneed Insurance
PO Box 34698
Memphis, TN 38184-0698
800-619-7827
www.sneedinsurance.com
one thing i have figured out is that you need each driver in your family to have a primary driver other than the vehicle you want to insure.
i'm about to be 4 cars, 4 drivers. :sick:
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
If it's a very clean sharp resto but not a show car, probably around $25,000 should do it.
For show quality, it could bust $30K.
A #3 "driver", a "ten-footer", perhaps $13,000 to $15,000.
A kinda shabby but running, all there car, around $7,500
This is, by the way, a difficult car to restore.
By that I mean that, while I would never drive it in the ice and snow or use it for a daily driver, I would drive it. Even-HORRORS!-in the rain.
It sure is a beauty though, and the TR3 has been my favorite "affordable" British sports car ever since I was a kid. I find myself wondering "What would Peter Egan do?"
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
And last of all, I hate chrome wires--they should be painted. This is a 60s British sports car for gawd's sake. Don't put a rhinestone collar on a workin' sheep dog.
Think of a baseball bat that is highly varnished and hung on a wall as opposed to oiled up and used in a baseball game. That sort of thing.
I've noticed, people are putting these on mid-fifties Buicks. They just aren't correct unless it's a 53-54 Skylark. Almost as bad as a continental kit of fender skirts!
I HATE those items on an old car!!
For instance, I'd much prefer disc wheels or period knock-offs on a British sports car myself. Again, to my sensibilities, TCs look absolutely ghastly with chrome wires. Painted a dull silver they look fantastic. Jags and Ferraris are not so bad with chrome wires, if they are concours cars, since everything else has been over-restored as well by that time, so why stop now? People are often shocked to see how an original Ferrari was bolted together. As Enzo used to say: "You buy the engine, we give you the body".
But on the road cars, I just love the look of muddy painted wire wheels on a British sports car, lathered in patina, sliding around a corner. British sports cars were affordable cars, for the middle class (at best). They were never built to be fussed over. A Jaguar was considered a bargain in its day (and it was).
I have friends who won't even SELL parts to people who are over-restoring British cars or motorcycles. Unless they race them, no dice, no parts. Don't know as I would be quite that self-righteous, but I do understand the sentiment behind it.
As for British car makers disagreeing with me, I'd consider that a compliment given some of the decisions they made.
They also used whatever they had on the shelves and assembly was haphazard. I've seen MG TCs with one door longer than the other.
Still most early British sports cars were RACED, which is what i liked about them, and which differentiates them from later sports car, or from touring roadsters like the Mercedes 190SL.
Wire wheels weren't so good for racing. They really can be a pain as they don't take stress very well. I've seen them fly apart or collapse.
this is why, ironically, classic Ferrari buyers spending millions are far less fussy about matching numbers and authentic sheet metal than a 69 Camaro buyer. This amuses me.
Infiniti FX that were built before a certain date are particularly strong and so are all black Escalades.
Minneapolis, MN
1994 Porsche 968 Convertible (thin market for these)
6-sp manual, RWD
70,000 miles
Black / black
Leather, CD, heated seats
Good / Clean condition (no major problems)
Private Party: Edmunds TMV says $9300, KBB says $14,900
What's it really worth?
Thanks.
I'd say that for a very very nice one, about $16,000 should be all the money.
Deduct accordingly for paint issues, interior wear, mechanical repairs, etc.
Price guides are tricky. One has to know precisely what the "condition" they are showing actually means. One man's "excellent" is another man's "good" or even "average", while another person's "excellent" is actually show quality.
I don't think price guides should list show quality pricing, since true #1 cars are very rare, are NEVER driven, (some never even started up, lest the engine be discolored or stained) and are trailered with little tire muffs to keep the grass out of the treads.
Many #1 cars are never even offered for sale publicly, so it's hard to know the prices they bring.
I'm looking to buy a '67 Tbird and have been searching around online to find some numbers to gauge the current value of the car. I found a website online called www.collectorcarnet.com which sells a database of actual classic car sale prices. It looks pretty reliable, but I was hoping to get some feedback first. Has anyone used this website and bought their database before?
Thanks,
Brooke
In the case of the type of car you are looking for I don't think you need to spend money on a subscription, since these are not high dollar automobiles. I think if you checked out www.nadaguides.com, then looked at www.collectorcartrader.com for comparable ads, you might start to get a sense of value
You didn't tell us if you are shopping for a coupe or a 4D, or what kind of condition you are seeking (fixer-upper, clean driver, show car) so we can't really offer an opinion of value.
What is the overall condition? Is it show quality, spotless, prisitine? Or is it a "clean driver"? Or does it have a few scrapes and bumps and faded paint?
What color is it?
What is the mechanical condition? Does it need overhaul of any major component?