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2010 Hyundai Elantra

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Check the tire pressure and maybe drive again. Often, cars come from the factory with tires that are grossly overinflated. This makes the ride seem harsher than it truly is.
  • afigafig Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2010 Elantra about three months ago - brand new.

    My Navigation system locks up when I believe the temperature in the car, after sitting in the sun, is high. When I start the car, the navigation system starts up, but even with AC running, after awhile I see a fuzzy image and every half inch I see a blue vertical line and the whole navigation system locks up.

    When I say navigation system, I am including the radio, XM radio, GPS, and the Blue Tooth phone (the whole electronics package in the one unit). So all those functions quit working. While the car is still on, I can push the on/off volume control and the unit does turn off but comes back to its previous locked state when turned on after pushing the on/off button.

    The only way to reset the navigation system is to turn the car off for over 5 minutes (not sure on exact time). I have turned off the car completely for 30 seconds and the navigation system comes back locked up.

    Wondering what should I do ? And wondering if anyone knows a button combination that will allow me to reset the navigation system while I am driving (versus turning the car off on the side of the road for five minutes) ?

    I was going to take it to the local dealer I bought it from. But I get the feeling over the phone they have never dealt with any Navigation system on the 2010. Meaning I am scared to take it to them in case something else goes wrong while they "tinker" with it. For other than the above everything in the car runs fine.
  • tannortannor Member Posts: 7
    I was at a dealer today, and looking at the 4 door GLS, and list price was $17,810, they gave me a price of $15,461 not including taxes, final price with taxes and everything else was $17,179

    Is 15,416 the best you think I can do? Or i can negotiate to get it lower?

    I am still going to look at the Kia Forte, to compare I heard good things about that car but not sure.

    Thanks
  • denp3denp3 Member Posts: 99
    We just picked up my wife's SE yesterday (7-3-10). The SE steering may be a little stiffer, since it has sport tuned steering and suspension. So far my wife hasn't found it to be an issue. She went from a 2003 Elantra GLS to the 2010 Elantra SE.
    Keep in mind, they do have electronic power steering, so on the highway, they will tighten up.
  • jblahjblah Member Posts: 7
    edited July 2010
    I got a 2010 Elantra GLS for 13500 OTD price. they tried to be a stickler for my trade-in offering me 500 below blue book fair value. I said I would leave because that was just insulting and started to leave but then they stopped me and said they would give me 200 below blue book fair value if I reconsidered. I estimated that 13500 OTD was probably +500 for me so that would make up for the -200 below blue book fair (although I would put it in between fair and good but who knows i'm not an appraisal expert). I got 3.9% financing though Hyundai for 60 mo. This is in the Northern VA area. Thoughts?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    So the OTD price includes or does not include the value of your trade? If the trade is included, how much did the dealer give you for it? What was the price of the car before taxes and fees? It's hard for others to compare deals w/o knowing facts like that.
  • jblahjblah Member Posts: 7
    edited July 2010
    the OTD price does not include the trade. it was 13500 OTD. it only includes tax, tag, title, freight, and all that stuff. i got 200 below bluebook fair price for the trade. i estimated the trade value to be between fair and good but i might have sentimental value for the car so i guess u can put it as fair. so it was 13500 - trade $ for the total price i paid.
  • on2010on2010 Member Posts: 2
    After being manipulated and intimidated into buying a new car, cars were switched without my knowledge and consent. I brought the wrong car back the next day for dealer to take back but they refused even they knew that I didn’t want that car from the start. Dealer offered to only buy it back or trade it in robbing me of thousands and thousands of dollars. They did everything possible to force the sale of the wrong car even processed unauthorized transaction on my credit card!
    General Manger of Crown completely ignored my emails for help! Hyundai Co. is no help either!
    Please be aware that any dealership can alter their contract anyway they want but they will not do so as they will not be able to rob you of your money!
    Crown Hyundai should have done the right thing and take the wrong car back, switch it back to the original car or return my money as this was their fault!
    As they haven’t done so I will NEVER buy anything at Crown Hyundai again!
  • on2010on2010 Member Posts: 2
    After being manipulated and intimidated into buying a new car, cars were switched without my knowledge and consent by Crown Hyundai, St. Petersburg, FL salesman. I brought the wrong car back the next day for dealer to take back but they refused even they knew that I didn’t want that car from the start. Dealer offered to only buy it back or trade it in robbing me of thousands and thousands of dollars. They did everything possible to force the sale of the wrong car even processed unauthorized transaction on my credit card!
    General Manger of Crown completely ignored my emails for help! Hyundai Co. is no help either!
    Please be aware that any dealership can alter their contract anyway they want but they will not do so as they will not be able to rob you of your money!
    Crown Hyundai should have done the right thing and take the wrong car back, switch it back to the original car or return my money as this was their fault!
    As they haven’t done so I will NEVER buy anything at Crown Hyundai again!
  • stephen987stephen987 Member Posts: 1,994
    How about not letting yourself be "manipulated and intimidated into buying a new car"?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    There are only two entities that can force you to part with your money:
    1. the government, and
    2. you.

    I don't agree with high-pressure sales tactics, but ultimately, the decision to purchase and/or trade in is yours alone. It is very, very rare that a dealership will take a new car back - it is then a USED vehicle, so when they re-sell it, they take a huge loss. They aren't going to do that simply because you weren't able to resist their sales tactics.

    The only suggestion I can offer you is that you should take someone (objective) with you next time you shop, so that they can help you say "no" if the deal doesn't seem right.

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  • huskycthuskyct Member Posts: 1
    Hello,

    I am scheduled to finalize a purchase for a used Hyundai Elantra 2010 with 16000 miles for $13,000 (this was the best deal I could find). I am a student and am trying to keep my cost as low as possible. Accordingly, the car as a 5 year/100,000 mile factory warranty. The dealership is trying to sell me their extended warranty which would only up the factory warranty to a 10 year/100,000 mile. I am wondering if this is a deal I should take? I am looking for a long term reliable car, but am not sure that it is worth the $870 extra dollars. Also, I am not at all interested in the roadside assistance, etc. I have AAA.

    Thanks!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    A couple of points here...

    1.) The warranty on a used Hyundai reverts back to 5yr/60,000 miles, not 100,000, unless the car is "Certified" and offered with the full 100k warranty. I'd put the $870 into a 5 year CD at the bank and use the cash to pay for a repair later should you need it. You must do relatively little driving if you expect to drive less than 86,000 miles in your car before 2020. As a suburban commuter in a mid-size city (Birmingham, AL) I drive 25,000 a year.

    Otherwise, why pay for the 5 extra years?

    2.) If it comes with roadside assistance, dump AAA for the next few years; you'll need it to pay for that pricey warranty.

    In the end, remember that a warranty is a gamble, and you're betting against The House -- in all likelihood, you wouldn't spend $870; they've done the math for you and priced it in their favor. Assuming a 5 yr/ 60k warranty, its so good I'd still feel comfortable with it. The Elantra is a 4-5 year old design, whose engine design quite dated, but proven.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Roadside assistance transfers to the new owner.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Then maybe the owner could put some of the money towards to the warranty that they'd normally spend on the AAA membership, if he or she is apprehensive about buying without it.
  • donn11donn11 Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to decide between Elantra and Camry. Longer warranty sounds tempting. I have been with Toyotas for 20+ years, and am a bit scared to branch out. Are any loyal Hyindai customers who have been happy with Hyindai reliability? Thanks.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Well, I am a little surprised you are comparing the Elantra to the Camry. Sonata to Camry would be a closer comparo, or Elantra to Corolla.

    But anyway, I've owned two Elantras (2001 and 2004--still have the 2004, my sister still has the 2001) and I was very satisfied with their reliability and general ownership experience. And these are the previous-generation cars--not as good in many respects compared to the 2010. I've driven a lot of 2007-10 Elantras in test drives and rentals and like them a lot. Would have bought a used one in April if the resale values hadn't been so strong. One thing I like about the 2010s made after December is the improved crash test scores. That was never a strong suit of the Elantra--until now.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited December 2010
    Was trying to find one of your posts, backy.

    I wanted to ask you as you might be someone who knows, or can find out.

    It's about the dif in wty coverage on Hyundai in USA vs Canada.

    Yours is 10/100000 miles.
    Ours is 5/100000 km which is only 62000 miles.
    If I ask at my local Hyd dlr, they simply have no explanation. It really sticks in my craw that we don't get NEARLY as good a wty coverage as our American neighbours. The only way it would be more unjust is if I lived in a border town like FtErie/Buffalo.

    this is ours..I think Kia is identical.

    5 Year
    100,000 KM
    Comprehensive Limited
    5 Year
    100,000 KM
    Powertrain Protection
    5 Year
    100,000 KM
    Basic Emissions Coverage
    8 Year
    130,000 KM
    Major Emission Coverage
    3 Year
    Unlimited KM
    24 Hour Road Side Assistance

    and see if you can make sense of these exclusions/conditions. It sure sounds complicated to me. Eng and tranny for 1 yr? this is just a small example

    1 Year
    20,000 KM
    Replacement Parts

    Genuine Hyundai replacement Parts purchased from and installed by an authorized HYUNDAI dealer will be warranted for 12 months from the installation date, regardless of distance travelled. Engines and Automatic transaxles are covered for 12 months or 20,000 kms, whichever occurs first.
    Genuine Hyundai Parts purchased over the counter (not installed at an authorized Hyundai Dealership) are warranted for 12 months from the date of purchase. Only the cost of part is covered under this warranty.
    Genuine Hyundai replacement Parts replaced under the terms of the HYUNDAI New Vehicle Warranty, including powertrain, emission, etc., will be warranted for the remainder of the warranty period applicable to the replaced part. Refer to the Service Passport for complete details of Hyundai warranties

    3 Year
    60,000 KM
    Replacement Accessories

    Genuine HYUNDAI dealer-installed Accessories are warranted for 36 months or 60,000 kms from the Warranty Registration Date, whichever occurs first. If installation occurs after the Warranty Registration Date, warranty coverage is 12 months from the installation date, regardless of distance travelled, or the balance of the 36 months or 60,000 kms coverage, whichever is greater.*
    Genuine Hyundai Accessories purchased over the counter (not installed at an authorized Hyundai Dealership) are warranted for 12 months, unlimited kilometres from the date of purchase. Only the cost of accessory is covered under this warranty.
    Refer to the Service Passport for complete details of Hyundai warranties.
    * 3-year warranty does not apply to Genuine Hyundai Accessories installed on 2010 and prior model year vehicles. Such Accessories are warranted to be free from defect for 12 months, unlimited kilometres from installation date.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Maybe call Hyundai Customer Service and ask them to explain it?

    Or write a letter to John Krafcik and ask why the Canucks are like Rodney Dangerfield when it comes to the Hyundai warranty: don't get no respect, no respect at all.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Is John Krafcik with Hyundai Cda? I have tried up the ladder back in July when i was car shopping. Now i am again, but i didn't have success before. Somebody has to know the real poop though.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    For you, might be better to go to Steve Kelleher, President and CEO of Hyundai Auto Canada.

    http://hyundaicanada.com/pages/About/Message.aspx

    I wrote a letter years ago to the then-President and CEO of HMA about my 2001 Elantra, and eventually I did get a call from someone in HMA about it. Didn't really solve the problem, but at least they followed up.
  • butterfly46butterfly46 Member Posts: 2
    I bought my car 12/30/11 and now it is rattling, squeaking & creeking in the dash board, ceiling, and the rear of the car...dealer wouldn't take it back of course, noise in dashboard & ceiling near drivers door more than likely can't be fixed & everytime I hit a bump, it gets louder-has anyone had any similiar issues?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    edited February 2011
    You mean 12/30/10?

    If your dealer won't investigate these noises, go to a different dealer. Also have you tried contacting Hyundai Customer Service?

    Does your car have a moonroof?
  • newhartfordnewhartford Member Posts: 49
    Did you mean 2011 Elantra or 2010. Here is the thread for the 2010:

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f1e9191!make=Hyundai&model=Elantra- &ed_makeindex=.f1e9191
  • butterfly46butterfly46 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for replying to me-yes my car has a moon roof...and the noise is near the door in the ceiling on drivers side & the noise in the dashboard sounds like a baby rattle & the passenger door is starting to make some noise now--I am just in a pickle because if I trade, I am spending more money & will lose money-I am so disgusted,who would have thought you buy a new car & then have all these problems! :cry:
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Rattles can be tough to find but can be fixed, sometimes very easily. For instance, overhead rattle could be a loose moonroof cover.

    Have you let your dealer try to find and fix the rattles?

    The other thing to check if you haven't already is make sure there isn't something rattling around in the glove box or sunglasses holder or other cubbie in the dash or the door bin. I used to hear a rattle if I put my sunglasses into the overhead bin with the bows facing out (in an Elantra, btw). When I place them in with lenses out, no rattle.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    A reporters seeks to interview a recent car buyer who opted for an Elantra or Cruze after considering Corolla. Please email pr@edmunds.com by Monday, February 14, 2011 with your daytime contact information and a few words about your decision.
    Thanks,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

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  • lordy1952lordy1952 Member Posts: 8
    I recently purchased an 2010 Elantra GLS from NJ just before the new year. right now it has about 500 miles on it, I was wondering does the gas mileage get better? right now i estimate i might be getting 20 mpg city driving ...how long is the break in period for you elantra?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Perhaps others will weigh-in also, but I think you will be waiting till around 5000 miles in order to see full mileage potential. Avoid idling more than 30 seconds if possible. That will help more than people realize. In the morning I start it, let the revs just start to come down a hair naturally by the engine management, then drive away slowly which will bring engine up to temp quicker, but not really cost you drivetrain longevity. Gentle use the first few minutes is best for FE and component life. Is it an auto or a stick?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    edited March 2011
    We rented a 2010 Elantra that had about 36K miles on it for six days last week. Good points were it was very roomy for a small car, had a large nicely shaped trunk. It seemed to have adequate power and, though I didn't formally check mileage, seemed to be quite fuel efficient.

    Low points were engine was a bit noisier than I would like and engine vibration transmitted into the steering wheel. Steering feel was quite remote. There were intermittent rattles in the dash center stack, and the wiper control stalk was much more complicated than it needed to be. The wiper control setup integrated with the turn signal on my 2000 Taurus is much better.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Not sure if you've driven many Asian cars, but the Elanta's wiper stalk is very conventional for Asian cars: flip up for mist (one wipe), down one notch for intermittant (with a rotary control to adjust interval), down one more notch for slow wipe, and down one more notch for fast wipe. That's the way most Asian cars including Hyundais have done wipers for many years. I find it very easy and intuitive... but it would take getting used to if you are used to having wiper control on the turn signal stalk, which I don't happen to like (maybe because I'm so used to the dedicated wiper stalk on the right with all the Hyundais, Nissans, Toyotas, Mazdas etc. I've owned).
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    edited March 2011
    It's not the position of the control so much as the need to do two separate functions to set the intermittent speed and to turn on the wiper. A simple twist through the intermittent speeds and on to slow continuous and fast continuous is more ergonomically simple to me than having to twist a separate ring on the stalk to set intermittent speed and turn it on with a down motion.

    I really will miss the dual sun visor system on my Taurus when I change vehicles next, which I believe no one offers any more on any vehicle. :(
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    In most cases, it's a single action to turn on the intermittent wipers: flick the stalk down one notch. You only need to touch the dial if the speed needs adjusting. I leave my intermittent setting on low, and rarely have to adjust it. It's all what you're used to. I'm used to the way the Elantra et. al. do it; you're used to the way Ford does it.
  • kingdomsakingdomsa Member Posts: 14
    I bought two new Elantra's in 2010 - a Blue manual trans model and a GLS auto.

    The GLS has 11k miles and just stalled on the road a month ago. After 3 weeks in the shop, Hyundai replaced the engine. The dealer's shop said it spun a main bearing - and said he had never seen that before. Running good now.

    The Blue has a vibration in the steering wheel at cruising speed. It's bad enough to make my hands go to sleep after an hour. The dealer road force balanced all the tires/wheels and found one way out of spec and corrected it. But the vibration is still there - as bad as before. Interesting that if I push in the clutch at speed, the vibration goes away - so I'm thinking the vibration is associated with some part of the power delivery system, e.g. engine, clutch, trans, half-shafts or? Anybody got ideas of how I can explain the problem to the dealer - and how he should troubleshoot it?
  • janhopejanhope Member Posts: 1
    I bought a new 2010 Elantra GLS in Jan. of 2011. Also had a 2003 Elantra GLS that had a great ride - very smooth. I took the 2010 back to dealer complaining of the ride being excessively bouncy day after I received it. They said the shocks needed time to loosen up. Went back today - have sold the 2003 and now only driving the 2010 complaining of the same problem - especially if you are riding in the passanger seat. After waiting over 2 hours they say they don't notice any problems when they drive it. Has anyone else had this problem? Everyone that rides in my car complains. Feels like you are in a bouncy house!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    So, a year and a half later...wondering if you ever found the source of the suspected drivetrain vibration?
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