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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • drew_drew_ Posts: 3,382
    FWIW, the Eaglites are not very good bulbs. They were pulled off the market by a very large auto parts chain in my part of the woods because they're illegal and the stores were getting fined by the insurance companies and the police for selliing them. They do not meet DOT regulations. Look for bulbs that do meet DOT or SAE regulations.

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • lambdaprolambdapro Posts: 51
    Where can I get a third row seat for a 2000/2001 Suburban? I also need the three pins and six bolts for the seat hold downs.
  • jamesc35jamesc35 Posts: 1
    heY people!

    I recently applied with to have my SUV wrapped with an ad for a monthly cash payment. Has anyone here done that? I think this is pretty basically pays for your car! Let me know what you guys think??
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Posts: 29
    Well I have sent and received at least 6 emails to GM Customer relations and Tech Center plus phone calls, if holding on to a line for 20 minutes listening to sales pitches counts too. All I wanted to know was an answer to two questions:
    (1) Is it possible for the Dealer to use a Tech 2 to correct my speedometer accurately for an up grade from 245/75/16's to 265/75/16's. If so, why has it not worked after three tries.

    (2) If the speedometer can not be set right on, is a 4% error acceptable?

    No one at GM can answer or will answer. I have been referred to the Telephone center back to Customer Relations to Tech Center and back to Customer Relations with dealer referrals thrown in. Just answer the two questions! I am contemplating sending the CEO the same questions and ask him what the purpose of On Star, Customer Relations and the Tech Service is beyond supplying purchase information and referring questions to back and forth between the sites. This is really bugging me. Skipjack
  • blueburbblueburb Posts: 3

    Here is a link to some useful info from Like you, I also upgraded my tires from 245/75/16 to 265/75/16 and investigated getting the computer calibrated. I paid my dealer $38 to do the job but it only calibrated the ABS. This was confirmed to me by the mechanic who did the job.

    See this link...


  • jspeedyjspeedy Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Suburban LT with 130,000 miles and have loved it. Now looking to buy a 2001 Sub or
    Yukon XL. Do any of you guys have pros or cons on either model in comparisons from when you bought?

    Also any good websites to search to buy a new vehicle as well as dealers in the New England areas to buy from?
    Anyone used an autobroker to purchase?
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Posts: 48
    We sold our 1993 GMC Suburban LT last year with 165,000 miles (and got $10,000). We looked at both the Chevy and GMC versions of the larger SUV's as a replacement and ended up with the Yukon XL. From what I recall, the Chevy was less expensive largely because you could buy it with less options. The GMC had more robust "packages" and was priced a little higher. By the time you added all the same stuff from Chevy, the Chevy actually came out a little higher. We also noticed the there was a different "cut" to the leather in the GMC, which we liked just a little bit better. As with previous Suburbans, they are undoubtedly built on the exact same line and only get their "names" towards the end. We got a private tour of the Janesville (WI) plant several years ago (interesting story for another day) and to a layperson like us (we had the whole family) we didn't know what the car was going to end up being until they slapped the grill on and added a few "bowties" towards the end. Bottom line, to me anyway, is that either one is a great truck and the differences are too minor to fuss over for the most part. I would add that if you want to go upscale, GMC offers the Denali package whereas Chevy does not offer anything similar. You could also choose the Cadillac Escalade as an option, but I don't believe it is offered in the bigger versions, only the Tahoe/Yukon size.

    As to Internet deals vs. local dealers, we tried "Autobytel" and had very little luck with it. Our best bet was to use the figures provided right here at and use them as negotiating tools with the dealership. We took that one step further and presented them to both Chevy and GMC dealers - and then had them compete with each other for our business! "Gee, I don't know, Dealer X has just offered us this Yukon XL for $1,000 over invoice" When they caved, we would go back to the GMC dealership and say, "Well, this is what the Chevy dealership said they would do on a loaded Suburban." By the time neither would budge we had saved several thousand dollars and were driving off in a new YXL. Car salespeople don't like it, but being a career sales guy myself, I know it is the American way. Also be sure to check on any rebates and factory discounts BEFORE you start negotiating. I hear there is a factory loyalty discount/rebate of $1,000 for previous Suburban owners. Negotiate your best deal and then remind them of the rebate when you have finished. You will get a GREAT deal!

    Good luck and ENJOY your upgrade - I know we have!

  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    just to add a little bit to what y2kgts stated..

    we leased an '01 Chevy Subn 4wdLT Black on 4/30 ...used the $1000 Current Subn loyalty coupon .. If you own a Subn or tahoe that's all that is required

    now there is a $1000 Dealer cash Incentive on Subn and Tahoes.. also Yukons & Yukon XL.. where we live in NC--Chevy's Southeast region.. most other regions have the same.. some dealers are passing this along to customers.. others 'play dumb' and say they never heard of it.. they have..

    also there is a GM Lease Incentive for old GMAC Leases that originated before 3/30/99.. turn them in without any penalties.. all remaining payments are waived.. I scanned the GMAC info that I received in the mail at I have an older '99 Subn that falls in this category.. so I'm now looking for another one if I can cut the deals all together... this ends on 7/15/01

    tried the Internet 'deals' in the past.. no good for us..

    I have scanned the Loyalty Coupon at this link.. you don't actually need the coupon .. just show the registration to the dealer to get the $1K Loyalty Rebate.. it ends on 6/30/01

    the $1000 Dealer Cash Incentive link is at or go to Edmunds and Look up National Rebates and Incentives and plug in your make/model for your State.. this ends on 7/15/01

  • connievconniev Posts: 1
    I am interested in purchasing a new Suburban. I am confused about the seat mounted seat belts. I am wondering if they are an annoyance since they
    lock in place, and in a crash would they stay locked in place. I now drive a 97 Suburban and
    the belts allow movement in the chest area, is it
    an annoyance to loose this movement. What were
    others told was the reason for this change, I am
    getting different stories from different dealers. I am not sure they are safer that the ones mounted
    to the steel of the car. Please advise me if you
    have these and use these, and if they have or have
    not protected in a crash.
  • viperrulzviperrulz Posts: 17
    I saw where rhanson3 mentioned a quad headlight relay to make the low beams be on when the high are on. Is this an aftermarket part? Where can I get one? I've got a 2001 Tahoe I'd love to have that setup.
  • bstrandbbstrandb Posts: 12
    I'm interested in replacing the factory fog lights on a 2001 Suburban with PIAA 980 dual lamps. Has anyone installed these? Did you run into any problems?
    Based on the dimensions shown on the PIAA web site, the lamps will fit the opening in bumper. I'd like to use the factory fog light switch to operate the fog light half of the PIAAs and add a second switch for the driving light half. Is it possible to place another factory fog light switch in the blank panel above the regular switch? Or perhaps a cargo lamp switch from a Silverado?

    Any help/ideas on installation and wiring would be appreciated.
  • viperrulz:

    I installed the headlight relay (ID #1259) from R&D Truck & Auto Accessories.

    I ordered the upgrade special which also includes a foglight controller and a door unlock controller. They were all easy to install and work perfectly.


  • viperrulzviperrulz Posts: 17
    Was it just basically a plug and go installation? I really don't want to do any splicing... Thx for the quick response, btw.
  • araftcoaraftco Posts: 23
    I also installed the quad headlight relay from R&D and the installation is very simple and straightforward. You simply crimp into the existing wires with no true "splicing" of the wires. You don't even need tools.

    Another thing to check out at R&D is the automatic door unlock. My DXL unlocked only when you took the keys out of the ignition and the relay from R&D changes that to unlocking when you put the vehicle in PARK. Makes much more sense.
  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    The seat belts still move in the chest area. They can be manually locked for child seat installation, but otherwise function as any other seat belt I have had in 25 years.

    They do seem a bit more "sensitive" than others I have had. When leaning forward they seem to "lock" easier than other vehicles. Some have found this to be a pain. Leaning back a little then resuming your forward lean gets them moving again. I personally find it reassuring. The belts in my old Dodge never locked up and I often wondered if they would in an accident.

    (Matt D)
  • Has anyone seen a picture of the 2002 models?
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Posts: 462
    I had the same concern about the seat mounted belts versus the B-pillar mounting on my 1992 Suburban. At 6'3" I was definitely concerned that the seat belts on the new Denali XLs would be intolerable. After 4 months I can honestly tell you they are comfortable and I can't even remember what the previous belts were like. Took about a month to get used to. Unfortunately it is a two hand maneuver to put on the belt where the previous design could be engaged with one hand.

    I also installed the 3 relays (quads, fogs and locks) from the R&D site above. It is definitely worth installing and quite easy, takes about an hour and a half. No wire cutting. You won't be disappointed.
  • viperrulz:

    No splicing. Simply crimping wires together. Very easy, very clean install.

  • hooopshooops Posts: 64
    I have 2000 Suburban (1500 LT, leather, power, roof, etc) with approx.
    11000 miles.

    I like it a lot more than the Expedition I use to have, but I've had a
    problem with the rear passenger windows. I have brought the car in for
    service at least 3 times to correct the problem. I've been told it's the
    motor in the window. I've also had problems with the radio/clock,
    where it periodically gets reset to the default settings.

    Today the right rear passenger window went out again. I plan on
    bringing it back again tomorrow.

    Is anyone else experiencing this type of problems ?

    Since the windows have been in for service 3-4 times, does this
    qualify under the lemon law ?

  • subliminalsubliminal Posts: 29
    There is a Tech Servce Bulletin on this that your dealer should be able to retrieve. It states the rear window motors (regulators?) must be replaced. If they haven't done this that is the problem. If they have, they may have gotten the wrong/older parts or used parts from a local distributor that were old.

    Personally I think invoking the lemon law for power window failure is a little extreme. This is a problem that can be fixed.

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