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Based on the dimensions shown on the PIAA web site, the lamps will fit the opening in bumper. I'd like to use the factory fog light switch to operate the fog light half of the PIAAs and add a second switch for the driving light half. Is it possible to place another factory fog light switch in the blank panel above the regular switch? Or perhaps a cargo lamp switch from a Silverado?
Any help/ideas on installation and wiring would be appreciated.
I installed the headlight relay (ID #1259) from R&D Truck & Auto Accessories.
http://www.truckautoaccessories.com
I ordered the upgrade special which also includes a foglight controller and a door unlock controller. They were all easy to install and work perfectly.
Rich
Another thing to check out at R&D is the automatic door unlock. My DXL unlocked only when you took the keys out of the ignition and the relay from R&D changes that to unlocking when you put the vehicle in PARK. Makes much more sense.
They do seem a bit more "sensitive" than others I have had. When leaning forward they seem to "lock" easier than other vehicles. Some have found this to be a pain. Leaning back a little then resuming your forward lean gets them moving again. I personally find it reassuring. The belts in my old Dodge never locked up and I often wondered if they would in an accident.
Subliminal
(Matt D)
I also installed the 3 relays (quads, fogs and locks) from the R&D site above. It is definitely worth installing and quite easy, takes about an hour and a half. No wire cutting. You won't be disappointed.
No splicing. Simply crimping wires together. Very easy, very clean install.
Rich
11000 miles.
I like it a lot more than the Expedition I use to have, but I've had a
problem with the rear passenger windows. I have brought the car in for
service at least 3 times to correct the problem. I've been told it's the
motor in the window. I've also had problems with the radio/clock,
where it periodically gets reset to the default settings.
Today the right rear passenger window went out again. I plan on
bringing it back again tomorrow.
Is anyone else experiencing this type of problems ?
Since the windows have been in for service 3-4 times, does this
qualify under the lemon law ?
Thanks.
Personally I think invoking the lemon law for power window failure is a little extreme. This is a problem that can be fixed.
Subliminal
I began to look around late March intending to order a new XL or Burb for the Summer. I then discovered several discounts & rebates that prompted me to purchase right away. I did my homework, researched all the options, reviewed all the posts here (THANKS!), pulled all the purchase info from Edmunds and KBB and then set out to look at colors and options with the family. We wanted a full dress, all options vehicle, I think it was the 1SC pkg- leather, memory seats, onstar, climate control etc. My wife kept leaning to the XL looks and that became our focus.
White Yukon XL, 2WD, fully loaded, upgraded wheels, 5.3 liter, 3.73 rear axle, tow, etc. etc.
Here's the net of my deal. (Southern California)
'01 Yukon XL at $400 over invoice. Approx $35,900.
Customer loyalty discount $1,000.
Aouto show area discount $1,000.
GM Mastercard points $2,000.
I had found there was a price increase March 1, 2001, by $365 on the configuration we wanted. I found this by asking for copies of the invoice from the dealers, and found price discrepancies. The fleet managers I was calling didn't even have a clue until one fleet mgr was comparing the invoice of the vehicle he had on his lot to a new delivery. Costa Mesa GMC matched my best price of $400 over invoice, however, I insisted they find the vehicle at "OLD" invoice (invoiced prior to March 1), thereby netting a price of $45 over the current invoice. The kicker to go with Costa Mesa GMC was they threw in "LIFETIME" Oil & Filter changes and Lifetime carwashes. With my wife's office only a few miles away, I figure that could easily add up to over $700 in bonus savings.
With my "Fuzzy Math" and GM card points, I ended up at better than $4,000 below invoice.
My wife loves it and has laid claim to it. I don't get to drive it unless it's weekends or vacation. She gave up her 540 BMW for it. I'd rather have that than her being afraid of it.
Mileage: City around 16mpg.
Hwy best has been 18.8 mpg.
By the way, tried Internet companies, did better on our own. Internet will generally give a fair deal and no fuss, no muss. I saved at least an extra $1,000 over the best Internet Service.
Last Note: I wish I could have bought from Brad at Boulavard GMC in Signal Hill, GREAT GUY!! Costa Mesa threw in extras and close to wife's office.
Sorry for being so long. I appreciate all the help, input and dialogue from this forum.
Anyway, we have climate control since there is no sunroof. According to the owner's manual if both the fan and mode switches are in 'Auto', the I shouldn't have to turn on the A/C button to get cold air. It will not blow cold unless I push the button. Do I have a problem? or is this normal?
Also, does anyone know if this comes standard with the weight carrying or weight equalizing hitch. Both stickers are on the hitch, but it does not say in the owners manual and the dealer has no idea.
Thanks for the reply.
2021 Toyota Venza Limited Hybrid, 2022 Ram 2500 Laramie 6.4 Hemi, 2007 Mazda MX-5 Miata PRHT
I did not like it at all for the following reason.
Those trucks are ground (negatif)switched and use very small, must be gauge 18 wires, to the headlights.
The relay that I got, relay is a wrong term since I opened this little box and the only thing inside was 2 diodes.
The way it worked was , when you turn your high beams on, to use the negatif, ground from it to feed it to the side of the low beams wiring that now was positif.
Very bad idea for 2 reasons.
those wires are way too small to carry twice the amperage that they were designed for and consequently they heat up and your low beams are not as bright than they should be.
It is easy to check,put the switch in low beam and use the flash to pass lever,( in this mode the factory design turn the 4 lights on)if the low beams are brighter than with the "relay" on,you have a problem.
Also the 2 wires to each light, high and low reverse polarity when you turn this light on.
In another world the positif become negatif and the negatif become positif.
If you have this problem, I can tell you what I did to my truck to sole it.
luc.
If you turn off the AC button in auto mode (which you can...override) it will stay overridden until you reset auto mode. Meaning you will have to manually turn onthe AC by the button. (at least that's how my 2K K2500 burb works).
To reset to full auto, put the fan knob to auto and cycle the vent knob to anywhere (floor, bilevel etc) and back to auto. When you do this you should notice the fresh/recirc button lights go out and the AC light come on (as long as it's over 40 degrees F).
Enjoy the new ride.
Subliminal
Haven't been to the dealer yet because of time constraints. Would like to get armed before doing so.
I'm curious as to why were you surprised that the hitch bent down? That's a good thing! It dissipated the crash energy that would otherwise be transfered to the passengers, and it probably prevented a good amount of damage to your rear bumper. A competent body shop should be able to replace the rear frame crossmember so that it's as good as new. On the same token, I personally wouldn't re-inforce it past the original specs simply since, once again, if it may not crumple the way its supposed to in an accident so as to dissipate the energy from the crash.
Good luck,
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
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Probably 100% of the MY2000 and early MY2001 rear power windows will fail eventually. They have since been improved. One of mine failed and when I took it in they replaced BOTH rear window motor assemblies - GM is telling their dealers to replace BOTH of them when either one fails - if you ask they might replace them even if they are still working (or just tell them that one is "intermittent" - which is probably true, even if you haven't noticed it yet). The trick is to be sure that they use the redesigned parts (not old stock of the defective assemblies).
Crank sensor
------------
Also, it appears that 100% of the crankshaft sensors on the early 2001 8.1L motors will also fail. This is a $40 part than can cause much grief - the engine computer does not report the problem until it gets really bad (to the point of engine failure). If you've notice any funny behavior (e.g. a slight hesitation during full throttle shifts, hiccups, stalls, any difficulty starting), you might want to have the dealer check the computer for CKP (crank position) codes. I don't understand why GM hasn't recalled all of the early 8.1L vehicles and replaced their sensors - unlike the power window problem, this problem results in intermittent engine failures that could be a safety issue (unexpected loss of steering/braking power, stall in an intersection or congested area, stranded somewhere, etc).
I got to experience the "limp home" mode when the crank sensor finally had a hard failure - the engine runs very roughly on half of the cylinders at 1000-1500rpm. It ignores the throttle (at least on the 8.1L - I'm not sure what the mechanical-linkage motors do). It will eventually get up to 20mph on flat ground (1500rpm). The display on the dash says "reduced engine power" - that is an understatement. I was glad that it failed on paved roads - just a few days earlier I was on 4x4 roads (I wonder if GMC "roadside assistance" is provided on 4-low BLM trails?).
Anyway, since the third crankshaft sensor has been installed, I have not experienced any of the slight hesitations that I previously experienced from time-to-time (and it also fixed the recent flurry of stalls, starting difficulties, and transmission malfunctions). The first two sensors were from the early production lots - the dealer was fairly confident thet the sensors from more recent production are more reliable?
You need to buy a 12V relay.
if it had 4 prongs they will be marked:
30
86
85
87
If it had 5 prongs,you will also have a 87a.
doesn't matter which one you get, just don't use the 87a prong.
On the driver side headlight,you will find 2 wires,yellow and orange for the low beam and 2 wires,purple and orange for the high beam.
You need to connect # 30 with an inline fuse(15/20Amps)to a GOOD ground.(frame is the easiest)
# 85 is also connected to the same ground,use a screw/bolt on the frame,but with no fuse.
# 86 need to be connected to the ORANGE wire of the high beam
# 87 go to the yellow wire on the low beam.
That is the simplest way to do it.
The way it work is that when you turn the high beam on,#86 receive + and close the relay.
When the relay is closed,you have continuity between #30 and # 87 and consequently,the - negatif from the frame is directed to the yellow wire of the low beam.
Just because I am a perfectionist, I did run 2 wires with inline diodes (one way switch for electrical current)from #87.
one go to the driver side low beam and the other one go all the way to the passenger side yellow wire on next to the low beam plug.
The reason for that is that the yellow wire is very small and i didn't wanted it to carry the juice for 2 low beam lights.
With this system, the low beam will be "factory" bright.
Luc.
Have a 2001 Yukon XL 1500 SLT, and recently got a new Nokia 8260 phone. Really like it, but reception is not better than my old one, which was half my reason for getting the new one.
Nokia does not offer a "hardwired" car kit - cradle, charger, wired through stereo, etc., but most importantly an external antenna. They have a hokey cigarette lighter adapter, which I've heard from various people is not worth the money.
Is it possible to connect my Nokia phone to the OnStar antenna in any way? Just the reception increase would be worth it for me, even if it costs a decent amount. Otherwise, does anyone know of any aftermarket car kits for this phone? If not, any thoughts on trying to have a second external antenna installed? (Outside of the fact that it would look kind of stupid...)
Thanks in advance.
Scott
Is there any way to utilize the (2) diodes in that KC module, or did you buy (2) new ones?
If new, where did you get them, & the relay? What are the current (amps) spec's on the diodes & spec's on the relay you chose? I've been contemplating doing just what you did, but just have not found the time to sit down & plan it as you did! Thanks for your help! Dave
I got the parts from RadioShack, web site"www.radioshack.com"
6 Amps rectifier Diode. Pkg of 4 $ 2.29
Part # 276-1653
Relay 30Amps 12V $ 5.99
Part # 275-226.
Remember to put the Diodes correctly, you need to cut both low beams yellow wires close to the headlamp and put the diode in line with the cutted wire making sure of the direction of the diode.
By the way, thoses diodes are exactly the SAME than the 2 in the KC box.
Don't you think that the KC fake relay/electronic module is a rip-off?
Diodes are designed to let go through only the negatif on one side and the positif on the other side.
In another word you want the negatif from the truck electrical,(thoses lights are negatif switched)to be able to go through the diode when you are in low beam.
Luc.
When I attempted to tighten the filter, I did so from an awkward position and was not able to put much torque on it. I suppose that if I positioned myself better, I could tighten it some more by hand. How tight should a filter be? Can I over-tighten it by hand? Apparently the mechanic at the dealer who changes my oil/filter does not think it has to be very tight at all. All comments are welcomed.
Problems....
1. Steering wheel is not on straight, even after going to the dealer for repair. So has to go back again.
2. Hood not on straight, (almost rubbing on one side). Dealer tried to fix but only put 8" crease in the side of the hood.. now needs official body work. So has to go back again.
3. Cut on the interior plastic driver door panel. Dealer got replacement part, but the new one came with a cut on it, so has to go back again.
4. Could not figure out how to get the middle headrest off. The dealer (sales&service) and manual does not state. Finally the car wash guy at the dealer used a paper clip, and with the paper clip, showed us how to take the headrest off.
5. HOME LINK DOES NOT WORK. I have a newer Genie electric garage door opener that I bought at HOME DEPOT, and the rotating codes do not work the the HOME LINK system. The manual says to bring it into the dealership, but they say it won't work. Any suggestions?????????
Fit and finish seems only , Yukon AL was made in Mexico. Am I just to picky? Or is this the way these trucks are?
It rides great, feels solid.
Guess I will be buying extended warranty.
http://www.geniecompany.com/Support/gdocommonquestions.htm#4HomeLink
it should answer your question.
Good Luck.
Campo57
Went to www.cellphoneshop.net
They show a picture for a external antenna but for use with a 8210/8290 cell phone only.
Would it be practical to trade out your new cell for one of the above models? Go back to your Cell Shop and compare the cells. Some may have an external antenna jack.
Before doing this I would investigate the new very short cell antennas by Antenna Specialist. Like they are using as a roof mount on the new Chev. trucks.
The antenna they pictured would likely do a good job but it is long and you may not have clearance in your garage. Just a few thoughts on your conversion.
Last item - if you are not using the OnStar radio that antenna could probably be made to work IF the cell has an external coaxial jack on it. I don`t. think yours does.
Hope this is not as clear as mud.
Don.
http://www.criterioncellular.com/html/adapters.html
Let us know how it goes!
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
The only thing that I know,beside the fact that the KC module is a piece of crap,is that ANY relay/module that use the very small wires(18 gauge)going to the headlamps as a power source to supply voltage to the low beams when the high beams are on, is a BAD design.
Electrical wires are sized depending on the load,(Amperes) that they are designed to carry.
You calculate Amps by dividing the wattage,( let say 45 watts per low beam bulb)by the voltage(12V)
in the case of the truck.
So each low beam bulb draw about 3.75 Amps.
In this case you are aking a wire that was designed,(sized) to carry the Amperage for 1 bulb,to carry the Amperage for 3.
What happen in this case?
It's like trying to put 1/2 inch bolt into a 1/4 inch nut,it is not going to go through.
Resistance is created and the wire get hot.
Where do the power source on the R&D come from?
Did you try the simple test of pulling the flash to pass lever when you are on low beams?
Are you low beams as bright when you are in high beams than with the flash to pass?
does anyone have any info on what the difference in gas mileage would be or if any other problems with the 4.10 gears.. don't need to tow anything large so don't really need the 4.10
got to do the deal by this Sat to use my $1k loyalty rebate again( also used it on my wife's) as that's the last day.. also have to take advantage of Lease Incentive Program.. old lease on my '99 Subn gets wiped out..no penalties.. plus all payments remaining (8) are gone..
I called Chevy Incentives # at 1-800-950-2438.. all they said on a couple of different phone calls.. that there would most likely be new loyalty rebates.. but not yet in writing .. whatever that means.. so 6/30 remains as last day...
anyone hear about any other Incentives coming up..???
no coupon is needed according to Chevy but you then have to show a registration or some type of current ownership of a Subn or Tahoe to get it.. here's what the coupon looks like.. http://greengrouper.com/ggserver/Chevy1KLoyaltyCoupon.jpg ... also at message # 692 my post..
good luck
An additional $1,000 on top of any other incentives already offered - 7/1/01-9/30/01.
**Note an exclusive offer code did appear on my email**
Says to print it & contact local GM dealer for details.
That is on top the $1,000 loyalty refund.
A deal. Wish I could have got that 4 months ago.
That makes me want to sell my 01 YDXL with only 1900 miles. Just to see if it works and purchase a 2002.
We're leaving today for family reunion and have arranged to purchase over the phone but need to know if this is true! How do I get the code for the extra 1,000?
there is anotherDEALER CASH INCENTIVE of $1K that some dealers are passing along to their customers.. that's the one that ends JULY 2 go to this link on Edmunds at http://www2.edmunds.com/servlets/rebate.RebateStart#model and put in your state..then follow instructions.. or go to http://www2.edmunds.com/servlets/rebate.RebateDetail?subp=17070&make=Chevrolet&model=Suburban&program=Dealer for the Southeast Region
I have a 01 Burb. So far love it. No major issues. Do have a few questions for the group:
1 - squeaky metal noise on driver door when opening/closing - not hinge related, but something inside with the door stop? Any guesses on how to check without taking to dealer?
2 - Saw earlier post on air flow noises on front door seals. I have the same, more so on driver's door. Is this something we just live with? No seals appear to be worn or torn.
3 - Rear suspension - slightly lower on left rear (about 1-2". Is this an issue of when the vehicle's suspension was compressed during transport from the factory? Is it easily fixed?
Thanks for the input.
Oh, I just subscribed to the ONSTAR Personal Communication Service (cell phone) They offer 30min free trial. I thought maybe with all the hands free legislation coming down I would check out the systems capabilities before going out an purchasing more gadgets.
It would be great to hear from anyone who has already tried it.
JG