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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    Just completed a 5 hour tow each way with about 6500-7000lbs in very hilly terrain in western PA in a 2001 Denali XL which has the 6.0L and AWD. I have made this trip over the past ten years in 2 different 3/4 ton 4wd SUB, a 1992 with 7.4L and a 1985 with the 350ci.

    There was no comparison. The 6.0L was far superior to the 7.4L in towing ability. My primary point of comparison is a very steep hill just off the Fort Littleton exit of the PA turnpike on the way to Raystown Resort. There is a 3+ mile grade that in the 3/4ton SUBs with the pedal floored my maximum speed was about 30mph (performed this task consistently over the past 10-12 years).

    This year with one more passenger (6) and a similarly loaded boat trailer, I climbed this same grade, floored at 40-42mph. Overall the 6.0L felt much stronger, accelerated better and maintained cruise much more easily that my previous SUB.

    I can't make any comparison to the 8.1L but I can assure you I was very satisfied with the 6.0L in the DXL and its towing ability.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    It is still possible, the distribution lot still have them, so it may be a few weeks before they are all on the dealer lots. I seem to remember someone on here mention a railroad website that if you type the VIN of the vehicle into the tracking system it can tell you where it is, if indeed it is still in transit. I just can't remember what railroad it was. Might have been Norfolk and Sothern.
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    It was Burlington Northern...check out this site:


    http://www.bnsf.com/


    then click on tracing tools and go from there.


    Campo57

  • buster27buster27 Member Posts: 28
    The 6.0 in the Denali is a stronger motor than the regular 6.0 in the Suburban or YXL. I just pulled my 9500# travel trailer over the same turnpike two weeks ago with my 8.1 in a Suburban.
    Never got below 50mph and didn't even have to floor it. Downshifted to 3rd with about 3/4 throttle.
    What's important is if you're happy with your vehicle. If the 6.0 in your Denali is doing the job for you, then who cares what the next guy says.
    I'm extremely happy with the performance my 3/4 ton 8.1 Suburban gives me.
  • mike346mike346 Member Posts: 5
    Whats different in the 6.0 in the Denali to make it stronger(5ft/lb)? The only difference I see is bigger wheels/tires.
  • whatever7whatever7 Member Posts: 19
    The main difference between the two that I understand is the Denali is a half ton and therefore weighs less. In addition, the transmission is geared differently. The Denali should feel quicker than the 3/4 Ton due to the gearing differences and the lower weight. I personally drove a 6.0 3/4 ton and felt that the power was very similar to the 5.3 in the 1/2 ton. Therefore I purchased the 8.1 liter. The Denali was not available at the time I purchased. If it were me I would go with the Denali if you do not intend to tow a heavy trailer on a frequent basis and if you are I would go with the 8.1 liter 3/4 ton. Not only is the engine stronger in the 3/4 ton but so is the suspension, transmission, axles and differentials.
  • c1jmkc1jmk Member Posts: 3
    I think it is possible as I had a similar experience this week. I was speaking with a dealer a couple of days ago who said a car that I had located on GMBuyPower had not yet arrived at his dealership. He called me this morning to say that the vehicle arrived yesterday.
  • c1jmkc1jmk Member Posts: 3
    My San Francisco area-based dealer told me today that as of 8/1 Chevy is now offering $1,000 rebate/incentive on 2001 Suburbans. You can choose this rebate OR the financing, but not both. Has anyone else heard of this new $1,000 rebate/incentive for Suburbans on the West Coast or is this dealer just lowering his price to me by $1,000????? I can't find reference to the offer on any chevy site.
  • c1jmkc1jmk Member Posts: 3
    Just heard from a second San Francisco-area dealer who states...
    "As of 8/1/01 you have a choice of $1,000.00 factory rebate or subvented rates through GMAC of: 12-36 months 1.9%, 37-48 months 4.9%, 49-60 month contract 5.9%."

    What's interesting is that after posting my first message, I called Chevy 800# (got it on the chevy.com site) and was told that there was no $1,000 rebate on the West Coast, only special financing.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    There are some significant structural and numerous luxury feature differences between the 6.0L Denali XL and a 2500 6.0L Sub. The Denali does not have leaf springs in the rear which are on the 2500. The transmission in the DXL is different from both the 1500 and the 2500. It is heavier duty than the standard 1500 but lighter duty than the 2500 and also acommodates the AWD with a limited slip center and rear diff in the DXL.

    I believe the engines are the same in both applications however in the Denali XL you have a slightly lighter vehicle than the 2500 (Denali XL 5690 vs 3/4 ton 4wd w/ 6.0L 5840lbs).

    The lack of leaf springs and lighter chassis in the DXL provides an 8400LB tow capacity while the 6.0L in the 3/4 ton 4wd Sub has a 10000lb tow capacity.

    The comfort in the two suspensions is significantly in favor of the Denali however the towing capabilities are the trade-off.

    buster27: that area of the Turnpike is some beautiful country. The grade I was referring to in the earlier post was not on the turnpike but up in the Blue Mountains and is quite the "bear" to climb with a full load. The DXL handled the entire turnpike trip from NJ almost entirely in cruise and tow/haul mode without breaking a sweat.
  • jonkaojonkao Member Posts: 12
    I got the $1000 2001/2002 Yukon rebate certificate a couple weeks ago from GMC. This rebate is for current GMC Suburban owner and is not transferrable. I purchased a 1997 GMC Suburban SLT 4WD. This certificate is valid until 9/30/2001 and it made me thinking about getting a Yukon XL Denali.
  • j2smellj2smell Member Posts: 13
    Just took delivery of new 3/4 4wd Yukon AL with the 8.1. This truck replaces a 1/2 ton with the 5.3 which was totaled in an accident. It was a nice truck except for towing. Never compared to my 96 with a 454.Also didn't really care for the new coil spring s. leaf spring. Felt too light weight on a long trip. CM put too much car and not enough truck into the new style. My wife says the new 3/4 ton is quitter and better riding than the 1/2 it replaced, not to mention the power. If you are going to tow anything over 4500 go for the 3/4.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    I owned two previous 3/4 ton Subs and now own the 1/2 ton Denali XL.

    The following would be my assessment (not factoring in $).

    If you're towing more than 7000lbs regularly get the 3/4 ton with the 8.1L. I'm not sure what application would justify the 3/4 ton with a 6.0L. If you're going to step up in chassis, you might as well get the additional power.

    Almost all other towing applications can be comfortably handled with a 1500 and very comfortably handled with a DXL. It really comes down to your tow package and frequency. Having owned two previous 3/4 ton's, I preferred the heavier duty chassis, transmission, rear and 8 lug wheels when towing when particularly when they were new. However after 50,000 miles be prepared for the ride to get progressively bouncier when not towing as the leaf spring rear hardens. I owned both previos 3/4 ton's to about 130K miles.

    Ultimately thats what motivated me to move to the 1500 with coil/air rear suspension (maybe I'm getting softer as I age). My tow package (6500lbs) and frequency (12-15 times a year) didn't demand the 3/4 ton.

    It's worth noting the new 3/4 tons are measurably more comfortable than the previous 3/4 tons (I drove several prior to deciding on the DXL), however the 1500's have significantly improved as well, with the DXL, IMO, having the best handling and best overall ride of the line.
  • whatever7whatever7 Member Posts: 19
    The infamous cold start engine noise in 2001 8.1 Liter engines (piston slap as GM calls it) will be fixed in a recall according to the GM customer assistance group. They told me that they have fixed the problem for the 2002 engine by putting in a new piston design and that the engineering team is currently working on a fix for existing customers with the 8.1. There will be notices going out in the September/October time frame. They were not very specific about what the fix will be but it sounds like the fix may be new pistons for an existing engine. It will be interesting to see how they roll this thing out. I attempted to get this in writing from GM but they stated that the 1-800-222-1020 group is specifically told not to give anything in writing to customers.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    your going to let em tear down your engine? Thats what they will have to do to fix the problem

    I think it would be a safer bet to just listen to the noise
  • whatever7whatever7 Member Posts: 19
    I completely agree with your assessment. They claim that whatever is causing the noise is not causing any harm to the engine. However, I highly doubt that GM would spend the significant dollars to fix a problem that is only a slight nusiance for a few minutes upon cold startup. My guess is that if they are going to put out a fix that the problem is more serious than what they are admitting to at this point. I could be wrong ...
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    alot of people are complaining about this problem. I guess they are sick and tired of people complaining.

    As long as its not effecting performance why change it? There are alot of 5.3's and other motors out there with this noise and they have alot of miles on em

    Personally i think its alot of widepread panic

    Ryan
  • wesyangwesyang Member Posts: 32
    Does anyone know where I can get aftermarket skid plate. My LS doesn't have it. How much I need to pay for the parts and installation. I am also looking for running board and fog light. Thanks
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    try a junk yard


    http://www.copartfinder.com


    Probably get a good deal on a skid plate

  • buster27buster27 Member Posts: 28
    I don't want to tear down my engine. If the problem is severe enough to warrant a recall, then I want a whole new engine, or they warranty my current engine out to 100,000 miles.
  • matazzmatazz Member Posts: 2
    2001 Suburban - Is anyone else having trouble with 3rd seat shoulder belts locking up and not releasing? After complaints by my kids I examined both belts and found that indeed they would lock up and not release, only getting tighter like a noose as I tried to release the tension. I had to unbuckle the belts to fix the problem. This problem occurs both with and without the vehicle in motion. Dealer says "No problem noticed".
  • matazzmatazz Member Posts: 2
    cgold028, I am having a window motor replaced @ 10,000 miles. This is troubling, your having had 4 replaced in 23K miles.
  • murmurmusicmurmurmusic Member Posts: 13
    I remember reading about a recall on 2nd and 3rd row shoulder belts for GM trucks. Not sure if it was on this list. This sounds just like the problem that was described. Check with your dealer.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    I got this off the NHTSA site ( see below) .. about recalls on '01 Suburban seat belts.. only one on seat belts I found..Main NHTSA site is at http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/


    NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 01V159000

    Component: INTERIOR SYSTEMS:ACTIVE RESTRAINTS:BELT RETRACTORS

    Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.

    Mfg. Campaign #: 01043

    Year: 2001

    Make: CHEVROLET TRUCK

    Model: SUBURBAN

    Potential Number of Units Affected: 9196

    Manufactured From: SEP 2000 To: OCT 2000

    Year of Recall: '01

    Type of Report: Vehicle

    Summary:


         Vehicle Description: Pickup and utility trucks. Some of these vehicles have an internal component in the outboard

         seat belt retractors for the 2nd and 3rd row of seats that could be cracked. With repeated actuation of the locking

         mechanism, the crack could spread to the point such that the seat belt would no longer lock.


         In a crash, increased occupant injury could result from the no-lock condition.

  • j2smellj2smell Member Posts: 13
    Does anyone know whether the skid plate package for a 2000 Suburban 1/2 ton will fit the 3/4 ton?
  • bigc113bigc113 Member Posts: 5
    my 1999 sub. has given me very good service with the exception of having 3 rear ends replaced. I pull a 26'6" trail light that only weighs 4000 lbs. My sub. has 5.7 285 hp engine with 3.73 rear end. I had a 93 chevy pu with the same type rear end and never had a bit of trouble with it. I am now ready to have the 4th rear end put in, with less than 36000 miles on the vehicle. I know about the lemon law, but what would I expect to get if I blew the whistle? The vehicle gets 16 mpg city, 20 mpg on hiway, and about 13/14 pulling my trailor. I have 100,000 ext. warranty and the dealer assures me that I will never be out any money on any trouble with rearend. Has anyone else had a similar situation?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    Is the dealer replacing the ring and pinion gear only? Do you have a locking diff? In either event tell the dealer to replace the entire housing, a complete unit from GM. By housing I meant the whole thing, drum to drum, all assembled at a GM factory, not a dealer. 99% of the service guys do not know how to properly set up the gears in the rear end to start with, and that is more than likely the reason for the second, third and now the fourth. It will cost them more money to do it this way but I would bet money it will be the last time they have to mess with it!
  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Does anyone know the website address for info. that a person had listed for things to look for before buying a suburban? I think it was a earthlink site but I lost my bookmarks. Thanks.
  • subliminalsubliminal Member Posts: 29
    Well, had the K2500 for a little over a year and approaching the warranty end, so time to start thinking about some mods.

    I would like to find a good exhaust and/or performance shop in Eastern MA that I can go to for some educated installations. Does anybody have anyone around here that they have worked with and can recommend?

    Thanks,

    Subliminal
  • campo57campo57 Member Posts: 94
    I think this is the site you're looking for...if not, it has a lot of great information.


    http://suv.s5.com/


    Campo57

  • bigc113bigc113 Member Posts: 5
    infomercial on tv about hurricane systemintroduced into air intake hose or on top of carb. anyone out there used this product or know anyone who has?
  • bkmartinbkmartin Member Posts: 2
    Maybe the 2002 Z71 pricing on Edmunds and Webcarbook is incorrect. I priced a 2002 Z71 at Chevy Car Prices and it is within a few hundred dollars of the 2001 prices (the same as the other 2002 models).


    Brian

  • btenbten Member Posts: 28
    I think the early numbers were wrong. I just checked webcarbook again. the Z71 is about $700 more.
  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for the website. Yes this it. I am looking now since GM has offered incentives of low APR in my area (Columbus, Ohio).
  • jleinenjleinen Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know if Chevy is going to offer the Z71 trim on the K2500?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    there has never been a Z71 pkg on a 2500 (truck or burb) and their probably never will

    Buy the skid plate pkg and get some good shocks and then add some stickers and you will be set
  • sims57sims57 Member Posts: 1
    I discovered that my 2001 'burb 5.3 is using about 3.5 qts of oil in 6000 mi. Dealer says that it may be within normal limits, but he started an oil consumption test, just to get it on record. GM says acceptable consumption is 1 qt. every 2000 mi. Owner's manual says you can go up to 7000 mi or more between changes. I can see why. At this rate of usage, theoretically you would never need an oil change! Anyone else having the same experience?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    "GM says acceptable consumption is 1 qt. every 2000 mi"

    "3.5 qts of oil in 6000 mi. Dealer says that it may be within normal limits"

    within normal limits? What kinda math is your dealership doing

    6K miles = 3 qts

    you said its using 3.5 so that means it 0.5 qts over

    Better tell them to go back to freshman math
  • skipjack2skipjack2 Member Posts: 29
    I just returned from a 2200 mile trip from Florida up through Augusta GA, North West through S.C./N.C./VA/WVA into Eastern Kentucky and SE Ohio. We pulled a Sunnybrook Camper that weighed in at around 7000 LBS. Although I had a 4.10 rear end, an upgrade from 245 to 265 Michelin 16
    " tires cut the ratio to about 3.93, and I feel did effect the performance. After the first tank of Gas in Georgia, I stopped using the cruise control. I tried to keep my speed in the 55 to 65 MPH, speeding up, down hill to make the next hill, some times hitting 75 down hill and throttle floored, first gear and 48 MPH on long 4 to 5% grades. Having not towed through the mountains before, I did not know what to expect. Taking speedometer 4% error in effect, at times I was disappointed and at other times I felt we were doing real well. On lesser hills and with a good down hill start, I might make the next hill in OD. On the other hand the truck seemed to perform better if I kept the RPM above 2000 RPM and best at 2500 to 3500 RPM. Only a couple of times did my transmission get over the mid mark and most of the time was just below that mark. Engine temperature stayed very close to normal most of the time. Gas mileage went 7.9 worst to 8.8 MPG best, with an adverage of 8.5 MPG I was in First gear three or four times, 2nd quite a bit and overdrive downhill and later on lesser hills. The trip back was through Eastern Kentucky, Eastern Tenn., Knoxville and Chattanooga mountains. With about 4800 miles, oil is still on the full mark. Surprising, since I used a quart in the first 2500 miles. Must have broke it in right? Most hills, I would gain speed in 2nd, hold or gain some in 3rd. Over flatter terrain, I could hold overdrive on over passes and smaller hills. How would you rate this performance through the mountains, compared to say the 8.1 engine, or the Ford diesel, I'm thinking of getting to pull a 5th wheel. Chevy is still too proud of their Diesel to get competitive. Thanks for any input, (if you got this far). Skipjack2
  • garrett128garrett128 Member Posts: 1
    Can someone advise on what the difference the gas mileage might be with a 2001 Suburban 5.3L with a 3.73 rear axle vs. a 4.10 rear axle? (That is while not towing)
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    skipjack2: Sounds like pretty good performance overall on your trip. Although I'm abit surprised by the gas mileage, seems low based on my experience with a 6000lb boat/trailer on a trip I made this summer. Steep grades in Western Pa in a Denali XL over a 5 hour trip and I averaged about 10mpg on the trip computer. Is your vehicle a 3/4 ton Sub (Yuk XL) with the 6.0L or a Denali XL, which also has the 6.0L, but on the 1/2 ton chassis?
  • lavosby1lavosby1 Member Posts: 1
    Just traded my 2000 1/2 ton 4x4 burb for the 2001 3/4 ton 4x4 yukon xl. I am looking to replace the dainty tires on the new beast. The stock 245/75/16 look like tiny little donuts. Does anyone know how big you can go WITHOUT a lift? Getting all sorts of stories from the local tire guys.
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    265's safely

    285's iffy

    I have 285's on my 1500 silverado with no clearance problems

    Ryan
  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Just purchased a 2001 Yukon XL with Firestone Tires. Does anyone know if these tires where part of the recall with the Suburbans on the 2000 models? Or has anyone pressed the issue with requsting the dealer to exchange the tires for G/Y or Mich. tires? ANy help would be great.
  • mike346mike346 Member Posts: 5
    We just returned from a trip pulling a 28' Prowler weighing about 7000lbs with our '01 YXL 3/4, 4x4, 6.0L & 4.10 rearend. We traveled from Maryland up through PA, across the turnpike through OH and up in to MI. I was pretty impressed with the way we were able to handle the grades going through PA, I was able to keep it above 55mph the whole way. The mileage was from 8.01 to 9.6 for the entire trip.
  • ecc1ecc1 Member Posts: 11
    Anybody know what changes were made on the 2002's?
  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Has anyone used the GMS discount for purchasing a GM vehicle? I think I am eligible for this discount since my employer supports GM. I have submitted for the form 1753. After talking to GM help desk, they said the dealer holds the magical number for the predetermined price of the vehicle. Which is 4% over what a GM employee would purchase for the vehicle out of dealer stock. If anyone is interested here is the website https://www.gmsupplierdiscount.com/index.html
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    "vehicle out of dealer stock"

    You can also use the supplier deal for vehicles you order
  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Does anyone have any experiences with DVD entertainmant centers for Yukon XL? Looking for what is available. I have no sunroof with rear Climate controls.
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    cat1ia: I used the GMS program as my company supplies to GM. Easy process and it resulted in a a price for a 2001 Denali XL of about $200 under factory invoice. The employee price is about 4% under factory invoice, therefore the Supplier price, which is the employee price plus 4% should net you out around the factory invoice. Good luck!
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