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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • cat1iacat1ia Member Posts: 16
    Thanks for your input.. Does the dealer and only the dealer know the GMS price? SOunds like I have to take his word on it?
  • heatwave3heatwave3 Member Posts: 462
    The dealer is the only one with access that I know of, however if you have a good relationship with your salesman, he/she should have no problem with you looking over their shoulder while they look up the pricing on the computer. Typically it varies across different GM models and for example is not available on the Vette.
  • j2smellj2smell Member Posts: 13
    Just got a 200l Yukon XL.I can't believe GM redesigned this vehicle with such a cheap sounding stereo. I would rather have had the spare inside and the larger fuel tank instead of the subwoofer. Otherwise it is an excellent vehicle. Has anyone done any sound upgrade or modifications using stock system?
  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    Just arrived in PA from Maine - 400 miles - in our 95 Chevy Suburban. With the wife and 3 kids spread out throughout the cabin, luggage easily stowed in the back, dual A/C cranked, you just can't beat this vehicle for family travel! Granted it's not a new one, and does have 76K on the ticker now - but what a great vehicle! The wife will drive around to see our various friends in the area while I work in my office here for a few days as usual each month - then head back to Maine/NH again - and get reimbursed $0.33 per mile. I usually bring the family once or twice a year (drive my '00 Bonneville the other times) - and the Burb does the job every time.

    Gotta love it!

    Ken
  • gmusic7gmusic7 Member Posts: 42
    just finished a 4 day weekend to LA with 7 people. i originally rented a dodge grand caravan to fit everyone and everything for 4 days. the rental agency told me that the grand caravan broke down on someone else on the way back and there were no other vans available. at first they offered me a ford expedition...room for 7 but no room for baggage. then i saw the suburban. room for everyone and everything!!! i knew we were going to suffer on poor gas mileage but oh well. some of the passengers being 5'0" to 5'2" had fun climbing on board. the lack of running boards didn't help so they just made fun of the situation

    at first i complained of it's huge size and weight. but after spending a couple of days driving the "beast" i actually miss it now.

    a couple of complaints:

    - the stereo speakers were poor. i don't know if all the speakers were even working though.

    - the rear window wasn't working. this is probably a very abused rental

    - with 7 people and 4 days of baggage, the 5.3 liter seemed to lack a little bit of power on long climbs.

    - poor gas mileage of course but it's expected.

    positives:

    - it's hulking size!!! 8-) i wasn't abused much on the LA freeways as long as it wasn't fully loaded.

    - great interior space.

    - great vision looking over most other cars

    we had a great weekend over all!!! everyone was happy with the roominess of the vehicle.
  • elgato88elgato88 Member Posts: 10
    According to GM Web site:

    New For 2002

    Additions to standard LS trim
    Heated, outside rearview mirrors with self- dimming driver side
    Six-way power driver and passenger seats
    Side-step assist steps
    Electric rear-window defogger
    Fog lamps
    HomeLink Universal transmitter
    Vortec 5300 V8 capability for regular and ethanol-content fuel
    Electronic climate control available with sunroof
    Redfire Metallic exterior color available on LT model with body-color components
    Discontinuation of base trim
  • mpitzer1mpitzer1 Member Posts: 11
    The GM employee pricing, as heatwave mentioned, varies by model. On the Sub/XL the empolyee price is, IIRC, 84.5% Base MSRP + 83% option MSRP + 100% destination charges if you take from stock(on ordered unit it is 83% (Base + Options) + 100% destination . To that you would have to add the 4% (I would guess of the MSRP w/o dest.) to get to the GMS pricing.

    They used to publish the employee pricing in a book that was available to employees. To my knoweledge they do not do this anymore. I figured the above numbers by working backwards for several units I had them quote both off the lot and as an order. These numbers were true as of Jan. for 2001 models and may have changed for 2002 models, but highly unlikely because these numbers are very close to what they were in 1997.
  • lambdaprolambdapro Member Posts: 51
    It looks like you are right. No more two Suburbans for $45k. I was looking forward to another couple in 2006.
    Glad I got them while I could.
  • one4thegipperone4thegipper Member Posts: 24
    cat1ia-

    We had an Alpine in-dash DVD player installed in our '01 Suburban (no sunroof, rear air climate control) immediately after we picked it up in Aug. 2001. We have a 7" overhead LCD screen that was installed where the rear climate control was. The new console incorporates the climate control. Everything looks and works great. Within a month of install, we travelled from Indiana to Orlando with three kids under 5 and didn't hear "are we there yet" once. Well, worth the price ($3,000, which at the time nearly gave me indigestion). I requested that the player be installed where the CD holder was below the tape deck. Very nice since the lid covers the DVD player and keeps it out of sight. Otherwise, it would have replaced the tape deck which removes the rear audio functionality. Very happy with the setup. Let me know if you have any specific questions. Good luck!
  • gpvsgpvs Member Posts: 214
    Can you post the pictures for your setup?

    TIA.
  • poc322poc322 Member Posts: 22
    I'm in the process of purchasing a Z71 Tahoe using the GM Supplier Discount. The dealer that i've been working with has let me see what the GMS price is on the models i've been looking for. So since i'm having to locate one i've been able to determine which one i would preffer since the GMS price differs on each vechile because of the varring options. But they should show you the print out which has the GMS price, the Supplier Price, Invoice Price, MSPR, the mark up %. But what i have found is that the price runs anywhere between 700 and 1000 below invoice. In my expereince at least.
  • fcornayfcornay Member Posts: 6
    Recommend you visit the GMSUV web site at www.delphi.com/gmsuv/start/ then look under discussion titled "Audio, Video & On Star". Then look under subtitle "Audio System Upgrades". there are currentyly 81 messages. Start with #1 and read through all of them. This should help.
    I modified my audio system and the results were superb. Good luck.
    Sincerely,
    fcornay
  • one4thegipperone4thegipper Member Posts: 24
    Haven't had time to post them to my web site yet, but here are links to the pics:


    Overhead console -

    http://exitstageleft.homestead.com/files/suburban/console.jpg


    LCD -

    http://exitstageleft.homestead.com/files/suburban/lcd.jpg


    DVD Player -

    http://exitstageleft.homestead.com/files/suburban/dvdplayer.jpg


    Rich

  • one4thegipperone4thegipper Member Posts: 24
    Got the pics posted on the web site for easier viewing.


    http://www.homestead.com/exitstageleft/pics_suburban.html


    Rich

  • deckboat1deckboat1 Member Posts: 12
    Does anyone know of any rebates on 2001 yukon xl's in the Illinois area? Want to sell y 99 and get a new one if there are any rebates!
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    just speaking from what we have on our two '01 Suburban 1500 4x4's..

    my wife's black 'bourbon has P265/70R/16.....My white Z71 has P265/70R/17.. here's a couple of pics of both side by side.. stakeout "Suburban/Tahoe Owners: Photo Gallery" Jun 30, 2001 6:54pm

    you might want to go to a 17" tire like I have on the Z71 if you want to fill the wheel well up a bit more on your 3/4 ton.. but that means new wheels..an LT265/70R/16 should be the best overall value ..

    my only complaint is that they are still putting the 'P' or Passenger series tires on all 1/2 ton Suburbans.. no option to go to the 'LT' or Light Truck series like they used to have.. I replaced the 'P' series on my old '99 Suburban 1500 4x4 with the same size' LT' series.. I liked them a lot better overall.. wear better too..didn't ruin the ride as some might suggest.. all the 'bourbons deserve the 'LT' series tires..
  • y2kgtsy2kgts Member Posts: 48
    We were VERY pleased with the set up we chose:

    Audiovox Flexvision 13.3" flip down LCD TV (big!)
    Audiovox Wireless headphones (four of them)
    Pioneer portable DVD player (PDV-10)
    Power converter and inputs for home videogame system (PlayStation 2, etc.)

    I used the company that is the wholesaler to the local dealerships and installs 90% of the aftermarket systems here. The whole thing cost me less than $2,500 and the quality is fantastic. The wildest part was that they installed this gorgeous drop-down display WITH the factory sunroof in place! Didn't even effect the sliding sunshade even though it is mounted a few inches behind the sunroof opening. The TV has a built-in tuner so that we can watch local news/weather wherever we travel. Outside TV antenna is mounted horizontally below OnStar antenna. The Pioneer player is great because it comes with a remote (the kids can change it without fumbling for the player itself). Even better, it is completely removable and comes with the connections for the house as well! Two simple plugs and it goes from a 12 volt DC system to a 110 volt AC system. Gives us DVD capability anywhere we want it, including the hotel rooms. The videogame input is great when the kids want to play a bit. They can use the headphones while we listen to whatever we want on the car's stereo/CD system. We also added a radio frequency tuner for the video so that we can have the audio come across the entire vehicle sound system and not just the headphones. Great when you want to listen to Ralph Wigginton on "The Simpsons" (grin).

    If anybody wants pictures I can shoot some and post them here. Hope this helps!
  • michml320michml320 Member Posts: 42
    Well with mixed emotions I'm turning in my 1999 suburban. It's LT with every option. I loved the ride of this thing compared to each and every ford SUV I've ever ridden in which includes most of them. Any Expedition/Navigator owner who likes that ride must have grown up riding in bouncy trucks. The suburban ride is that much better it was incredible. The extra room inside was perfect for the family and friends. Lots of room. Huge gas tank was great. I told people I can go 600 miles on a tank of gas. Then I told them it holds 44 gallons and they would laugh. About 14 mpg in city up to 15-16 highway. Now the bad parts. The brakes are the worst brakes I've ever experienced. In three years, 65k miles, I went through at least 6 sets of brake pads. And include in that 2 rotors. Horrible horrible brakes for that reason alone I'm happy to turn it in. Throw in a massive alignment problem too. And throw in 2 serpentine belts. Two. Please give me back the individual belts anyday if I have to go through a serpentine every 30k miles. I think my 30k service was around $600. Expensive to own and operate(it was fine for me I wrote the whole thing off on business lease). I won't be getting another in all likelihood but I hear very significant improvements after my year so they should be fine now. Anyway, my 2 cents ymmv.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Does anyone have a 2500 badge or Z71 badge for sale?
    The 2001 Suburban 2500 doesn't come with the badges on the front doors and I would like to have them. I know that some people have removed badges for ease of waxing, but if you never wax these are not a problem.
    How about the Suburban badge on the rear door or the Z71 badges on the sides? Anyone?
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Your GM dealership's parts department will be happy to order a "2500" , "Z71" or an "Escalade" badge for you if you wish!


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • larrys7larrys7 Member Posts: 35
    Just finished a couple trips 2,000/900 miles in 01 YDXL - 18.8 average mpg on the interstate & 16.7 in the hills - LOVE IT!!!... Still miss my 97 burb 19-23 mpg & that large fuel tank.
  • balserbalser Member Posts: 90
    I miss the large fuel tank too. Don't know why the larger fuel capacity on the 2500's isn't at least an option on the 1500 (at least it wasn't when we bought our '00). Miss the switchable third seat light as well..although I haven't checked out the '02's to see if they fixed that yet. Someone posted that I could use the third seat light from a Tahoe, but haven't gotten around to checking that out either.
  • bberisford1bberisford1 Member Posts: 18
    Any ideas on floor mats to cover aisle between 2nd row
    buckets on '01 Yukon XL ?

    No joy checking MacNeill, etc.

    Thanks for the help.

    Barry
  • swampcat1swampcat1 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 2001 1500 LS in Louisiana with leather, towing, flares, running boards, premium ride, cassette. Paid 32,800 after the rebate. Orginal invoice was 33,450 before rebate. I'm wondering whether or not I got a good deal. I set out to get one with leather for under 30, but then my wife got picky with the color (charcoal) and options. I shopped over 8 dealers in and around Baton Rouge. No one would quote me better than $1,000 over invoice after adjusting for the $1500 rebate on a leathered up bourbon. When the guy in Hammond came down to $650 over, I figured this was the best I could do considering I wasn't flexible on color and leather. Just wondering what other people are paying.

    Swamp Cat
  • alfred7alfred7 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Suburban. This past week I experienced one of the hinges popping apart on the glass portion of the rear lift gate. Anyone else had this experience? Of course, it is under warranty and the dealer has to order the glass to be replaced. While I wait the "burb" sits in the garage can't take it out during this rainy season as there is an opening at the top of the glass. Otherwise this is the first trouble I have had. It is a great vehicle. Far superior to my 1997 Suburban.

    Al
  • jamiedcjamiedc Member Posts: 3
    Does anyone know if or when GM.is going to put the duramax and or the allison trans, in the suburban?
  • ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    smaller dmax probably with the 4L80 trans but not the allison. Allison wont fit under the burb
  • joe_jensenjoe_jensen Member Posts: 27
    My wife experienced complete brake failure with our 2001 Yukon XL. Please take a look at my thread in the SUV forum and reply if you've had this problem too...joe

    [url]joe_jensen "Brake Failures on GM Fullsize SUVs?" Aug 28, 2001 8:13am[/url]
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    I remember some of you having the cold air problem on the passenger side during the cold winter months. GM now has a TSB dealing with it, here it is.

    I apologize for the long post, but it is the entire TSB, and is for the people that have"problem" dealers that don't beleive, or want to do the reasearch so they print it up and take it to the dealer as proof.

    Passenger SIde of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Drivers SIde (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl
    Seal) #01-01-37-008

    Passenger Side of Vehicle Colder/Warmer Than Driver's Side (Repair HVAC Case to Cowl Seal)

    1999-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup (Silverado, Sierra) and Utility (Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL) Models

    2002 Cadillac Escalade

    Condition

    Some customers may comment that the passenger side of the vehicle may be:

    1.Colder than the driver's side when the heat mode is on.
    2.Warmer than the driver's side when the air conditioning (A/C) mode is on.
    3.There may be dampness on the vehicle dash assembly when the A/C mode is on.

    Cause

    Condition may be due to poor sealing of the HVAC air inlet case to the front of dash or the recirculation mode door actuator may not hold the recirculation door closed while driving.

    Correction

    Replace the recirculation door actuator (if necessary) and repair the HVAC case to cowl seal using the following procedures:

    1.Place the A/C control in the manual heat mode.
    2.Remove the fixed mast radio antenna.
    3.Open the hood and install fender covers.
    4.Remove both wiper arm assemblies using the following procedure:
    A.Disconnect the washer solvent hose from the air inlet grille panel nozzle.
    B.Remove the cover from the wiper arm retainer. Remove the retainer.

    Important

    Use a battery terminal puller in order to remove the wiper arm.

    C.Rock the wiper arm back and forth in order to loosen the arm from the drive shaft. Remove the wiper arm.
    5.Lower the hood.
    6.Remove the air inlet grille panel using the following procedure:
    A.On each end of the air inlet grille panel is a rubber flap for the hood hinge cutout. Lift this flap and remove the air inlet grille panel attaching screw.
    B.Remove the air inlet grille panel center top push pin.
    C.Remove the clips that position the forward edge of the grille panel to the top of the cowl.
    D.Disconnect the windshield washer supply hose from the bottom of the grille panel.
    E.Remove the air inlet grille panel by sliding the panel rearward up the windshield and out.
    7.Just to the left of the right hood hinge, on the horizontal surface of the cowl, locate a cover that is sealed in place. The cover has TRW stamped into it.
    8.With a sharp knife, cut out the panel following the panel impression in the sealer tape.
    9.Place a lifting device between the cover and the dash. Lift the cover enough to allow another tool to depress and release the front retaining tabs by pushing rearward on them. Remove the cover.
    10.Look through the opening where you just removed the cover. You will see what looks like a piece of foam about 76 x 127 mm (3 x 5 in). This is the A/C recirculation door that is within the HVAC
    module.
    11.Reach into the opening and carefully pull on the air inlet recirculation door. If the recirculation door moves with very little effort, replace the air inlet (recirculation) door actuator (Manual systems
    only). For systems with the Automatic Temperature control, initialize the system using published Service procedures.
    12.Between the top of the HVAC air inlet module (appears as a 6 mm (1/4 inch) black strip) and the cowl sheet metal is a foam seal. This foam seal may be improperly positioned or damaged in some
    way (insufficient crush/sealing). This may allow outside ambient air to enter the passenger compartment incorrectly (under driving conditions). This can be corrected using the following procedure:

    Important

    It is imperative that a good seal be achieved over the entire surface areas (no voids or skips), especially around the rear and sides of the HVAC case to cowl areas.

    A.Seal the area between the cowl and HVAC case with RTV Silicone Rubber Sealant, P/N 12345739 (in Canada, use P/N 10953541).
    B.Using your finger, from the engine side of the cowl, ensure that the foam is stuck nicely to the HVAC module and does not have any distortions.
    C.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, place a shop cloth into the opening and cover the blower fan. This keeps silicone from
    dripping onto the motor and causing an imbalance condition.
    D.From the engine side of the cowl, working through the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, apply the RTV silicone to bridge the gap and cover the foam between the cowl sheet
    metal and the HVAC module case. Inspect your work with a light and a mirror. Ensure that no gaps or skips are present in the RTV seal.
    E.Inspect your work for potential drips, runs, etc. If no problem is seen, remove the shop cloth covering the blower motor.
    13.Apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive, P/N 12345097 (in Canada, use P/N 10953479) around the opening in the horizontal surface of the cowl, where the cover fits into the cowl.
    14.Place the cover on the workbench, top on the surface, and apply a 3 mm (1/8 in) bead of weatherstrip adhesive on the edge of the cover.
    15.Place the cover into the cowl opening and snap into place.
    16.Apply another bead of weatherstrip adhesive around the joint between the cover and the top of the cowl. Smooth this bead into a smooth surface with a finger or tool of some kind.
    17.Place the leaf screen to the cowl. Attach the washer supply hose to the bottom of the air inlet grille panel. Do not place the fasteners in at this time.
    18.Install the radio fixed mast antenna. Tighten 1/4 turn after contact is made with the base.
    19.Lower but do not close the hood.
    20.Center the opening in the air inlet grille panel around the antenna mast and then install the air inlet grille panel retaining screws. Tighten

    Tighten the screws to 2 N·m (18 lb in).

    21.Raise the hood.
    22.Reinstall the air inlet grille panel center retainer and front edge retaining clips.
    23.Cycle the wipers to ensure the wiper system is in the parked position.

    Important

    Inspect the windshield lower edge on each side. About 51-76 mm (2-3 in) from the bottom, you will find a 13 mm (1/2 in) long black mark embedded in the glass. The black line is the position for
    the wiper blade to be in when the wiper system is in the parked position.

    24.Install the wiper arm asse
  • tpkentpken Member Posts: 1,108
    The shocks in my 95 Suburban 1500 are pretty squishy now at 78K and I am wondering what suggestions some may have for replacement. I've done plenty of Sears best gas for RWD cars but no experience with their truck shocks. Am I better off with Monroe or other?

    Smooth ride quality is important - no off roading use here.
    Towing is limited to 2500 lb boat - nothing heavier.

    Suggestions?

    Ken
  • loywilliamsloywilliams Member Posts: 3
    Got delivery of 01 YXL end of July. Had problem starting after 300 miles. Stalled on main road. Dealer replaced fuel pump, filter and re programed computer. OK so far. My petite wife complains that the steering is not centered and that she feels like she is sitting sideways to drive. Dealer tried to adjust steering, but did not work. Has anyone experience this? I changed the dome light to the switched reading light, it makes a difference.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    "My petite wife complains that the steering is not centered and that she feels like she is sitting sideways to drive."

    One of the early complaints about the new interior, was the miscentered steering wheel/column. It is not as noticeable in a bench seat as it is in the buckets seats. My petite wife refused to buy the '00 Tahoe because of it and opted for a new '99 instead. There are safety issues, i.e., 4 wheel disk, etc. that in my opinion makes the '00 better, but what the heck we all have our opinions. The '99 has better visibility because of the larger glass area, etc.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Try the Bilsteins. The '99 Tahoe came with them (2WD, LT), and they are the best I have seen or ridden on. About $55 each but well worth it. You can pay $15 each for junk and up to $45 each for good quality, but excellent starts at $55.00. I tried the Monoe VST (Variable Sensity Technology) which were supposed to be Monoe's latest. Junk. I removed them and took them back to Pep Boys for a refund.
  • smwls8smwls8 Member Posts: 103
    My mother-in-law tried to purchase a Yukon XL last week from a huge Atlanta dealer using the GM employee discount(her father is a GM UAW retiree). The dealership tried to talk the mother-in-law to do the deal WITHOUT using her Father's GM employee discount! Then they told her if she used her father's discount,she MUST finance the Yukon through GMAC and for a term no longer than 48 months! What kind of BS were they trying to pull?

    I have a Ford employee in my family that allows me to make A-plan purchases/leases deals since 1992, I have never ran into a problem like this. At Ford Lincoln/Mercury, if there is ANY factory rebates or special interest rates, you get these ON TOP of the A-plan discount( 2000 Lincoln LS, $500 cash back+0.9%interest on lease on top of A-plan discount)! My wife's grandfather has added my wife to his list of eligible buyers under his discount, but from the experience of my mother-in-law, I may stick with Ford, even though I would prefer to replace my LS with a Denali rather than a Navigator next year.

    Can anyone shed light why the GM employee discount seems to be such a hassle compared to Ford's? My mother-in-law claims you have to "hide" the fact that you are a GM employee discount buyer until after you negotiate a price, than spring for the employee discount. At FoMoCo, you tell the dealer straight up you are A-plan qualified, the dealer pulls up the A-plan price from Ford, and than any applicable incentives are added.

    Any experience with GM employee discount would be greatly appreciated.
  • munchomuncho Member Posts: 14
    I am trying to figure out how to get a 1/2 ton Suburban with an 8.1 in it. I have put off buying a Sub for a couple years because of lack of engine options in the 1/2 ton. The ride quality between the 1/2 and 3/4 is very different and since its my wife's car during the week and mine on the weekends, it needs both the nice ride and the big engine.

    The car manufacturers are putting smaller and smaller engines in their high volume vehicles for fuel economy reasons. I have read on this board people saying that the Sub is sluggish with 7 passengers in it.

    Has anyone bought a 3/4 ton with the 8.1 and then changed the suspension after-market to make it ride like a 1/2 ton? I wonder if the attachment points for the coil springs are there on the 3/4 ton so that one could take the leafs off and put coils on?

    I would especially be interested in the name and number of a shop that has done the above for someone.
  • minikinminikin Member Posts: 389
    I take it you have't been able to get your truck reprogrammed right from your tire size swap yet. Reading through your posts going back to the beginning of May, I gotta tell you this: 1) Your dealer's an idiot. 2) He/she is quite possibly confusing 265/70's with 265/75's. 245/75X16 tires have the same diameter as 265/70X16s which are a stock Sub size. 3) Your unhappiness with the performance on your trip in July (Aug) is related. I realize 4% doesn't sound like much. But it WILL screw up your shift points, ABS, and performance. Your truck's computer knows the difference. Ask Ryan, he had the same problem when he went from 265's to 285's and I had it when I went from 245's to 265's on my Silverado. 4) The only reliable way for you to fix this is to bite the bullet and buy a Hypertech III programmer. Your nutcase dealer has screwed with you endlessly. Even the competent ones will mostly just scratch their butt because it's not "in the manual". Even if they could possibly figure out how to deal with it, it will take you another six months and ten trips. Your alternative is to continue to live unhappily with what you have.
    -- Don
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Member Posts: 872
    That dealer is trying to pull one over on you, you can use any bank you want. I think the dealers get a bigger commission on the GMAC loans and ever sweeter deal if they can get you in under 48 months. In fact my mother used a credit union to purchase her car. The GMS/GMO pricing is good for any length loan, and any banking institution. My father got a van on a 6 year loan with gm discount. Just go to another dealer, if they don't have what you ant there, have them dealer trade for the one you saw at the other dealer lot. Tell her to call the "800" number to request a certificate, and just take it in to the dealer when it's time to buy.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Bill Heard Chevrolet in Kennesaw had no qualms about ordering exactly what I wanted using a GM Supplier Certificate. We did not discuss a payment option until I went to pick it up. Whether I had cash, credit union, or GMAC financing, it made no difference with them. The invoice from the factory has the GMO price and the GM Supplier price right on it (GMO+4%=GM Supplier). I paid the GM Supplier price and sales tax. NO adds on of any kind (no delivery add on, no documents fee, dealer prep or regional advertisment, etc BS.
    Find you another dealer... The one you are dealing with stinks...

    '01 2500 4x4 LT Suburban, autoride, 6.0 liter and all the goodies except sunroof
    Add on Cord Lighted running board, and Michelin 265 tires
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Member Posts: 21
    You can soften the rear by removing leafs or having a weaker leaf pack made for you - I wouldn't recommend changing to coils (the 8.1L has a 1-ton axle assembly - much larger than the 1/2T). However, I don't think the ride of the new 3/4T with autoride (autoride is mandatory with the 8.1L) is too bad anyway - certainly better then the older 1/2T models. The 3/4T autoride is different than the 1/2T - it uses computer damping control shocks, not air leveling. You can also air-down the 3/4T tires for a softer ride when not towing.

    Unloaded, the performance of the 1/2T 5.3L and 3/4T 8.1L is probably pretty similar, because the 3/4T has higher drivetain losses and is heavier. However, it will "feel" like the 8.1L is faster due to the higher torque and peak acceleration. When towing, the 8.1L is king of the road. The denali 6.0L with the light heavy-duty drivetrain has by far the best unloaded performance, but you loose 4wd offroad capability and pay through the nose.
  • rdtaylorrdtaylor Member Posts: 21
    After you buy something, you're probably better off not asking if you got a good deal - it will just make you crazy because there is almost always some joker that was able to swing a better deal than you somehow. Enjoy your great new truck and try to forget how much or little you paid for it!

    "Never criticize a friend's wife or his latest purchase"
  • munchomuncho Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for the post.

    What do you mean by higher drivetrain losses? I am aware that the Denali XL with its 3 fluid transfers for the AWD has drivetrain losses such that it has a zero to 60 acceleration figure of 9.2 seconds versus 8.7 seconds for the 5.3 liter Yukon XL, even though the DXL has the 6.0 engine. But I was unaware that there were significant drivetrain losses for the 8.1 liter.

    5,700 pounds is a lot of metal to move - I would think that the 8.1 with its torque would move it faster whether loaded or unloaded, but I havent seen any 0-60 acceleration figures for the 8.1.

    I think I'll test drive the 3/4 ton again. Thanks for the advice on softening the leafs.
  • whatever7whatever7 Member Posts: 19
    I have driven three of the four options that you have to choose from. I have driven all three after the break in period as well because I have neighbors that have each of these. My observations are the following:
    1) The 5.3 Liter and 1500 - Has roughly the same acceleration as the 3/4 Ton 8.1 when you are doing a 0-60 run (floored) with no load. This is due to a higher reving V8 and a transmission geared for quicker accelaration in the 1500. However, under normal dirving conditions the 8.1 Liter will feel much more powerful due to the 40% more torque at lower RPM's. Where you really will feel the difference is normal accelaration in 2nd, 3rd and OD. The ride is moderately smoother than the 3/4 Ton.

    2) The 3/4 Ton with the 6.0. I think feels about the same as the 5.3 Liter in the 1500. It has about 10-12% more torque than the 5.3 but is heavier and has a transmission that is not geared for quick acceleration. Unless you need the beefier suspension, transmission and differentials this is the last option that I would consider.

    3) The 3/4 Ton with 8.1 (this is what I own). The accelaration under normal driving conditions is awesome. You have tons of torque at all RPM's and 340 HP at a reasonable RPM (4200). The ride is not as nice as the 1/2 ton and the gas mileage is bad. Expect 10-11 MPG in most driving conditions. If you are going to tow anything their is no comparison. Particularly if you are going to tow on the highway or in the mountains. My wife drives the car most of the time and has no complaints about the ride. She also could probably care less about the extra power.

    4) Denali XL - I have not driven because it was not available at the time. I would have taken a serious look at this option because of the 6.0 mated to the quicker geared transmission and the better ride.

    Given the four options you should be able to find one that will work for your family. If you do go for the 3/4 ton I would not change the suspension though. The ride is not that bad and I willing to bet changing it will be more problems than what it is worth. The way I finally made my decision was that after driving a 93 1500 that was grossly under powered, I decided that I did not want to spend $40K plus and regret not getting the most powerful engine. The difference in dollars spent on gas for the amount of driving we do is $25-40 a month. Not worth worrying about in my book (unless gas goes to $3.00 a gallon).
  • mreid72mreid72 Member Posts: 3
    Hi! I need some help, and hopefully owners of Yukons and Suburbans and other SUVs can help me.

    Here's my situation: My wife and I are having our first children, twins, in about 2 weeks. We currently own 2 cars: a '93 Buick LeSabre and a '96 Toyota Camry.

    I have vowed to never own a minivan, and so the next obvious choice is an SUV. The cars will be too small, especially going on trips. I have looked at the Sequoia and the Yukon, and briefly at the Suburban. In fact, this weekend, I'll be spending a lot of time at the dealerships driving, inspecting, talking, etc.

    We will use it mainly for hauling the family around, along with friends from time to time, and for vacations which we take 2-3 times a year. We live in Florida, and visit family in Alabama, spend time in the mountains in Tennessee, do lots of camping, hiking, canoeing, etc., and are planning on going out west within the next 1-2 years. Our travel time will probably increase over the next 2-3 years, and I plan on keeping whatever I choose for at least 3-5 years. We probably won't tow anything since we have nothing to tow. However, that may change in the next 2 years, but that is not my primary concern.

    I would like to hear from owners of ALL full size SUVs, but what I want to hear is strictly their personal experiences with their own SUV; no bashing of the competition!!

    How have you used your SUV?
      
    How many people do you usually carry around?

    How much luggage space do you have?

    How much room is there in the 3rd row of seats?

    How much trouble is it to get into the 3rd row of seats?

    How does the vehicle perform in bad weather conditions? (rain, snow, ice, etc.)

    What do you NOT like about your SUV?

    I would also like to know approx. how much you paid for yours and what model it is along with the options you purchased. That way, I can better compare apples to apples.

    Any comments would be much appreciated. As I stated earlier, I will be doing some investigating this weekend, and will check back on Monday to see what responses I get.

    Also, I'd like to know of some good websites for good vehicle reviews besides this one and Consumer Reports.

    Thanks!
  • mpitzer1mpitzer1 Member Posts: 11
    I have to agree with what others have told you, find another dealer. I have bought many vehicles using the GM employee pricing, most recently an 01 Burb LS which was/in NOT financed through GMAC.

    Was the dealer by any chance owned by the Kelley Automotive Group? They are based out of here (Fort Wayne, IN), but I understand thay have some dealerships in the Atlanta area. I have never felt too comfortable with most of the people I have talked to at their dealerships.

    As for having to "hide" the fact that you have the discount, Not true. The way the program works now, it is a fixed price weather you order or buy off the lot (slightly better for ordering). In the past, the off the lot option was 5% off of the best deal you could negitiate rather than the fixed price it is today. There were some that felt you could negitiate a better deal before taking the additional 5% off if the dealer did not know you had this benifit. That may be where your mother-in-law is coming from. I don't know exactly when the change occured, but it was sometime between September of 98 and August of 2000.
  • chuckee98chuckee98 Member Posts: 39
    Your questions, and my answers follow. I kept it brief, if you need clarification or more info, let me know.

    How have you used your SUV?

    I currently own a 2001 Yukon XL 1500 (1/2 ton), which was bought to replace a 1995 Honda Passport. It is used a a daily driver.

    How many people do you usually carry around?

    Wife and two toddlers.

    How much luggage space do you have?

    With the third row up, enough space to haul at least a dozen standard size grocery bags, with room still to spare. With the row down, (rather flipped up and stowed), a double stroller, a single umbrella stroller, two kids sized suitcases, two adult carryons, five beach chairs, beach toys, beach blankets, three buckets, (you get the picture). I bought the Yukon XL to replace the Passport because I basically ran out of room. I had a Yakima Rocket Box on the roof that I used to haul the strollers around in. When I vacationed in Ocean City, MD two years ago, I had the Passport PACKED, with the Rocket Box. This year, going to Bethany Beach, DE, the YXL wasn't even close to being packed, and that's WITHOUT the Rocket Box (third row flipped up and stowed). We looked at the Honda Odyssey, Ford Expedition, GMC Yukon, Toyota Sequoia, and Dodge Durango before settling on the YXL. Minivans don't have enoough room behind the third row. One double stroller, and you're done. Same for all the other short wheelbase SUVs. The fact that I can have the third row available, and still have the double stroller, AND still have room for groceries sold us on the YXL. Plus, as an added bonus, if you get the second row bench, you can fit eight passengers rather than seven in a minvan.

    How much room is there in the 3rd row of seats?

    Sufficient for adults. Compared to a minivan, not quite as comfortable, because the height of the seat cushion is shorter than that of the minivans. The regular Yukon is impossible to tolerate for any distance, as the height from the seat cushion to the floor is almost non-existant. The seat bottom actually rests on the floor, and there is no foot well for the third row passengers. This is the same for the Sequoia, but the seat cushion is higher (thicker), so it isn't as bad. The YXL actually has a foot well for the third row pasengers. Can't remember if the Durango or the Expedition has one. Ruled out the Expedition because there was no headroom. Ruled out the Durango because the seat cushion was too short - felt like I was sitting on a ledge. Ruled out the Sequioa because they wanted $ 5K MORE than what I was paying for YXL. Make sure you sit and spend some time in the third rows of all the SUV's that you try out.

    How much trouble is it to get into the 3rd row of seats?

    Easy, since GM finally got their act together with the tilt and slide forward second row seat. Much better than the old way of folding up the seat cushion and then folding down the seat back to get in. Not as easy as a minivan, but you get the extra seat capacity that you can't in a minvan. If you get the second row buckets, it's even easier.

    How does the vehicle perform in bad weather conditions? (rain, snow, ice, etc.)

    No problems, but I've only had it through one winter so far. With dedicated snow and ice (winter) rated tires (NOT all season tires), I've been able to get by without even using the four wheel drive. I used it anyway just to give it some exercise.

    What do you NOT like about your SUV?

    The usual GM build quality and dealer BS. It doesn't feel like a $ 40K truck. The minor troubles that are well known for these vehicles. But I knew this before I bought the truck, and was willing to deal with it - fixing them myself.

    I would also like to know approx. how much you paid for yours and what model it is along with the options you purchased. That way, I can better compare apples to apples.

    2001 Yukon XL 1500 (1/2 ton) 4WD, 1 SD package, barn doors, 4.10 ratio rear locker, sunroof, skid plates, running boards. Stickered at $ 43K and change. Paid $ 750 over invoice, just over $ 39K. Purchased fall of 2000, delivery in winter. You can get a much better deal these days, usually under invoice.
  • buster27buster27 Member Posts: 28
    To whatever7-
    I have a 3/4ton, 8.1 liter, 3.73 axle ratio.
    Gas mileage around town averages 12mpg. Just returned from 1000 mile trip without the trailer and got 14-15mpg at 70-75mph. Pulling our 9000lb trailer, I get 8-9mpg. Do you have the 4.10 rearend?
    Have been very happy with performance. Just wish they could do something about the engine clatter on startup when cold. I've heard they are making changes to the 8.1 for 2002 to get rid of the noise.
    Ride is better than any 3/4ton Suburban I have ever owned. (I've had a 76,85,89,93, and 96--all 3/4 ton)
    Only complaints-- Spare tire mounted outside(don't care anything about a stupid subwoofer), and a smaller gas tank (38 vs 42gals in my old Suburban)
  • yukonxlxpert1yukonxlxpert1 Member Posts: 8
    Has anyone had water under their drivers side carpet ? My dealer claims it is coming from the grommet through tthe firewall, where I had added in extra wires for my emergency lights and siren.The dealer's "water guy" checked it and claims they are right, however even in the slighest rain , where the grommet is dry, I am still getting water . HELP !!The carpet is beginning to smell :(
  • whatever7whatever7 Member Posts: 19
    Buster27,
    We must be heavy footed ... we to have the 3.73 and although we do not religious track MPG I can honestly say that we have never approached 14-15 MPG. I think the best we have ever done on mostly highway driving is about 12.5. We are alsoo very happy with the truck and quite frankly do not really care about the gas mileage. If we did I suppose that we would drive a minivan (cringe). I did talk to both the dealer and to GM about the piston clatter on a cold start up and both have told me that a fix is coming for 2001 8.1's that involves puting in new pistons. That is a pretty scary proposition to me. They also claim that the noise will not hurt anything. If that is true I would rather put up with the noise (unless the fix is dropping a new engine in). Although I find it hard to believe that they would go the expense of fixing it if it was not causing any harm. The other interesting thing is that the GM customer service line told me that the fix would be available September or October and the dealer (this week) told me January.
  • munchomuncho Member Posts: 14
    You've convinced me I need to have my wife test drive the 8.1 again and see if she can live with the ride of the 3/4 ton. You summed up my thoughts exactly when you said if you are going to spend 40K you might as well get the most powerful engine.

    Thanks.
  • buster27buster27 Member Posts: 28
    We certainly didn't buy the 8.1 for the gas mileage either. I've just been pleasantly surprised that it is equal to and sometimes better than the 454 that I had in my 96. It has awesome power, and is a great trailer tower.
    I agree with you about the cold start clatter. Don't know if I want them to tear down my engine to put in new pistons. Would rather keep this engine and GM provide an extended warranty- possibly out to 100,000 miles, as an alternative to ripping out my old pistons. Good point about the fix-- if the clatter is not hurting anything, why are they going to the trouble and expense of putting in new pistons?
    To muncho- I'm not trying to tell you that the 3/4ton rides like a 1/2ton. But, with the Autoride suspension, it's better than any other 3/4ton Suburban I've ever owned. I need the power of the 8.1 to pull our RV, and I'm very happy with the way it rides.
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