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A Mechanic's Life - Tales From Under the Hood

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Comments

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    ATF fluid level? Loose oil pickup in the pan?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Oh, so you mean the jiggling of the car in an uneven field would slosh the fluid around enough to allow the transmission to engage, while on a smooth road it would not---that's an interesting theory, but I dunno...it's out there......

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889

    ok. So I have another mystery. Well, maybe not a mystery, but ... I dunno.

    The CEL came on the van on Sunday. I didn't have time to check it and figured it was probably just the gascap again anyway. Wife was then driving it Monday night. She was about a quarter mile from the daycare when, per her description, the traction light came on, steering got real stiff, brake pedal become hard and nonresponsive, and the car started to slow. She managed to get it to the side of the road before it completely stopped itself.

    She called me from the side of the road, car was still idling. I asked her to cycle the ignition off and on again. The TCS light went away and everything seemed to be functioning normally again. I told her to drive carefully to the daycare and she could call AAA from there. Well, she wound up driving it back home, too.

    I searched the ole interweb and found 2 similar reports (I think 1 was here on Edmunds) that supopsedly both led to a bad EGR valve. And, sure enough, when I got home that night and checked the CEL, it pointed to EGR valve.

    My problem is, how/why in the world does a bad EGR valve lead to TCS light and dead brakes and power steering?! I have ordered the part and gaskets and should have them tomorrow. I just worry that's not really the solution.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756

    @qbrozen - Well, I don't know on that vehicle how the EGR system would be linked to the power steering, but power brakes are controlled on vacuum, and if the EGR valve is not functioning properly, that could very well affect other vacuum-controlled systems.

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    If the car actually stalled while she was driving, that could replicate most of those symptoms.

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756

    @MrShift@Edmunds said:
    If the car actually stalled while she was driving, that could replicate most of those symptoms.

    That's what I thought initially, too, but Q said that the car was still idling when she came to rest on the side of the road...?

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889

    Right. No stalling. The TCS must have slowed the car. The steering concerns me...but maybe that's something to do with the TCS as well?? But why should the EGR affect the TCS?

    Vacuum was also my thought. Its about the only thing that KIND OF makes sense. But without being able to completely resolve it in my mind bothers me. It is an incomplete theory at best. Really not even a theory, just a WAG.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,250

    @qbrozen said:
    Right. No stalling. The TCS must have slowed the car. The steering concerns me...but maybe that's something to do with the TCS as well?? But why should the EGR affect the TCS?

    Vacuum was also my thought. Its about the only thing that KIND OF makes sense. But without being able to completely resolve it in my mind bothers me. It is an incomplete theory at best. Really not even a theory, just a WAG.

    I'm hesitant to say this, but 'cardoc' might be able to help.

    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    @explorex4

    He'd probably want to "have some fun" with the problem- and then blame gbrozen because he didn't take the car to a "professional technician"...
    :D:D:D

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889

    so far, so good. Van seems to be running smoother, shifting smoother, and the brake pedal is firmer. I just hate not understanding why a lousy EGR should cause so much havoc.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited December 2013

    Well if the bad EGR was sucking off a lot of vacuum, that could explain most of it---but you know, you weren't a witness to the event so maybe in the confusion of the moment some things were perhaps not simultaneous but sequential.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    edited December 2013

    yes, that's usually a problem.
    the first thing she said was "a yellow light with squiggly lines came on."

    palm-->forehead.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited January 2014

    Had Subaru problems this week. My '97 has a dealer installed OEM alarm that has always caused grief. I pulled the actual siren in '04 or so and turned it "off" with the dip switches a year or two after that. The key fob is tied in with it so I never wanted to completely pull it out.

    Last week the passenger side rear door wouldn't open unless I unlocked all the doors a second time with the fob. After unlocking all the doors with the fob; seems like I had to open the driver's door and then fob the rear one open or use the switch on the dash. All the other doors and the hatch worked normally.

    We drove it Monday and parked it. Tried to drive it Tuesday and nothing. The lights worked but there was no click. Hooked up the trickle charger and let it charge most of the day and overnight.

    Wednesday it still wouldn't start. Tried to jump start it and nothing. The alarm seemed to be acting up though and when I'd put the key in the ignition, the dash lights would momentarily flash. So I'm thinking either the alarm is flaky or there's some other "ground" issue going on or the battery has a bad cell. Maybe the starter.

    Checked my notes and my last battery was installed in 2005. Okay, should get a new one anyway after 9 years. The counter guy "load tested" the old battery and nothing registered. Funny thing was that my mechanic was at the counter too picking up a part and asked me if the Quest had died. He was in a bit of a hurry and I didn't get the chance to quiz him on the no start. Or maybe he ran to avoid the free advice, LOL.

    So $90 later, I swapped out the old $40 Walmart Exide for a Carquest (JCI?) one. Nothing changed. Tapped on the starter a little but not aggressively. Time for some sleep engineering.

    This morning I had the epiphany - try cranking it in neutral. D'oh, cranked right up. Turn off, put in Park, cranks right up.

    I probably could have gotten another year out of that $40, 9 year old battery. :D

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    So you have a wonky neutral safety switch? You'd best get under there and see if it's loose, or the linkage is falling apart or some such. Your battery was overdue anyway. Chalk that one up in the "proactive" column.

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454

    Could be. The several weeks of cold (zeroish) weather is just hard on stuff.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    After NINE years, did you really want to try coaxing that battery another year?

    I think Shifty has this nailed!

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756

    @Stever@Edmunds said:
    Could be. The several weeks of cold (zeroish) weather is just hard on stuff.

    What?! Bah. You're going soft, Steve!

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited January 2014

    @isellhondas, I was surprised when I looked at my logs to see that the battery was that old. Hunted down my receipts to see if I forgot to write one replacement down, but apparently it was getting up there.

    And yeah, if I had managed to get it started before replacing the battery, I'd try for a few more months. :)

    My previous best as I recall was 8 years. This guy has me beat. On an OEM battery to boot.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    I'm sure there's a Guinness Book of Records entry for this, if you feel so inclined to go for it, Steve.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    The battery in our 2003 CRV is five years old. If it even gives the SLIGHTEST hint of impending doom I'll replace it. I like replacing car batteries on MY terms rather than getting stranded somewhere on a dark rainy night!

  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 19,250

    @Stever@Edmunds said:

    My previous best as I recall was 8 years. This guy has me beat. On an OEM battery to boot.

    I'll have to check my records. I think I'm on my 2nd 100 month Motorcraft battery. The last one made it pretty close. The car sits from at least October to May and I try to start it at least once during that time period.

    2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454

    Now that we're in Michigan, the rust will win before the new battery dies I'm afraid. Drove it an hour out of town and back tonight, and it did fine. All the electrical gremlins are gone and that rear door opens just fine.

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Yes but will mechanics consent to look like dorks? :) I could see this working in a limited way, but replacing technicians---I don't think so. Right now it looks like an R&R tool.

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454

    Seems like half the stuff "fixed" now (i.e., replaced) could only be repaired with a soldering gun and high powered glasses.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    I found a great local guy who can work on the Mazda. Factory trained and he charges either the shop rate or actual time spent- whichever is shorter. He also prefers that I obtain the parts(!) I had him R&R the front sway bar bushings and it was a quick and painless procedure.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    This fellow working out of home?

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    Yes, but he has a lift and is possibly more obsessive-compulsive than me...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889

    oh boy. I feel bad for people like that only because they are so naive. I hope he at least knows the folks he does work for very very well and has at least some glimmer of trust that they won't sue him into oblivion the moment something fails that causes inconvenience or an incident.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    It's risky not having the protection of a corporation or errors and omissions insurance.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342

    Yep, the "old days" are gone now. If that guy changes a water pump and the transmission fails the next week, it HAD to be caused by something he did.

    Too bad....

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited April 2014

    He really only does work for members of the local Mazda Club; that's how I was referred to him. As a consequence he doesn't take on all that much work and his customers aren't the typical strokes whose automotive knowledge amounts to less than zero.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    I thought that a few of you might find this story interesting...

    In October of last year I had my dealer R&R the radiator, water pump, thermostat, and the upper/lower radiator hoses on my 2004 X3 2.5. At the time it had 156,500 miles on the clock and the only cooling system failure had been the expansion tank(at 148,800 miles). While it was apart the tech noticed that a couple of the vapor separator hose were beginning to collapse so I had the entire VS system replaced with the upgraded parts. The intake had some sludge in it so the tech performed BMW's proprietary intake system cleaner process.

    Fast forward to late December where at around 158,500 miles the truck started throwing an intermittent SES light. I ran it over to the dealer and my Service Advisor told me that the fault was the dreaded “catalyst efficiency” DTC. I had resigned myself to spending a few hours under the truck trying to install spark plug anti-foulers(and cursing the stuck O2 sensors) when I ran across an ad for Cataclean: http://www.cataclean.com/ It was apparently developed in England and is now sold over here by Mr. Gasket and Prestolite. Pep Boys had it for $18/bottle so I figured that I’d give it a try. You add it to the tank when it is almost empty(below 1/4 tank), drive for 10-15 miles then fill up with a quality fuel). I added it when the truck's OBC showed a range of 30 miles(@2-3 gallons remaining) and then I drove it for 20 miles before filling up with Shell 93.

    I’ve since driven the truck for over 1,100 miles and the SES light has not returned. I’m thinking that the catalysts may have been fouled with oil from the failing vapor separator and that the Cataclean removed the contaminants, but who knows?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    It's entirely possible. Actually lacquer thinner works quite well, so maybe that's all that product is. I've also heard of people removing the CAT and dumping it overnight in a bucket of laundry detergent.

    The dreaded P420 code will apparently go off even if the CAT has lost only 5% of its efficiency.

    Wish I was as lucky as you. When my CAT failed on my MINI, it just fell to pieces inside. Were it not for imaginative intervention care of my excellent local boys, I would have had to cough up $1700 bucks.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    Wow, it was going to be a bit more than that for the X3; it has a pair of 3-into-1 stainless steel manifolds, and each has its own integral cat...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Hmmm...my book shows around $1500 for the cat. Of course, then there's labor, which is another 3.5 hours---so yeah, you could bust $2000 no problem.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312
    edited May 2014

    Well, the RB fleet remains in good health. 1700 miles after the Cataclean treatment the X3 has yet to throw a code. The Koni FSDs I installed on the Mazdaspeed have made the car a pleasure to hustle down a twisting two lane road; I defy the so-called "experts" who bleat "always use OEM parts" to find even one person who thinks the stock damping is equal or superior to Bilsteins or Konis. Finally, I installed a Hypertech Sport Tuner on the Mazda, which-combined with the Mazdaspeed cold air intake-boosted horsepower to nearly 300 and torque to over 320 ft-lbs. Improved fuel economy was a pleasant surprise- as the car has averaged over 30 mpg since I installed the tune. There is more power to be had with a COBB AP tuners and more extensive modifications, but I wanted a safe tune that didn't impact reliability. And anyway, putting 320 ft-lbs through the front wheels is about all that the car can handle if you are going to track the car in anything other than a straight line...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    I often wondered about FWD and these tuners--I already have CIA and supercharger tweeks on my MINI and Autologic has a program which promises an additional 40 ft lbs of torque (!!)--it's a pricey upgrade but given the torque steer I'm already experiencing, I wonder if it's worth it for everyday driving.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Did you read the latest issue of HotRod where Kevin Byrd (engineer on "Overhaulin'" and "Two Guys Garage", stuffed an LS3 V-8 into his 1990 M3? He practically tore the car apart to do it but what a slick job. Lots of cutting welding and fabrication however. Do not try this at home. I think he showed it at SEMA in 2012. He also did some custom paint and bodywork.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    There are several people I know who have stuffed SBCs into 1989-up 5ers; but that is a considerably easier job, as those cars had a V8 option. What is an extremely common E30 M3 swap is to install an M5x or S5x six.
    Today a friend of mine threw a rod in his E30 M3 at Buttonwillow; that's going to leave a mark. On his debt/equity ratio...

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Ah, too bad. M3 engines can be a tad fragile as they mile up. Did he ruin the block or we don't know yet?

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    Don't know yet; my friend has the knowledge and the cash to keep it in fine fettle- I'm certain he doesn't cut any corners with maintenance.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    I wonder if he missed a shift or something--that's a good way to blow a motor. Happens to the best of us.

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    I missed a shift in my 318ti; fortunately the M42 is pretty resilient. Haven't heard what happened to the M3.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Wonder how many hours he had on the motor, if he tracks that.

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889

    I'm getting a little behind. Been driving the Benz almost daily, but as the ambient temps have increased this week, so has the coolant temp. Finally got it hot enough one day that the aux fan definitely should have been kicking in, and it wasn't. So I got that to diagnose yet, plus there is still the final injection tuning to do.

    Aside from that, the Town & Country's A/C has given up the ghost. Check it out a couple of weeks ago and found a particular junction o-ring leaking. So I replaced that and dad sucked down the system and recharged it. It was holding pressure at the time. That last all of about 2 days and I heard hissing in the dash. Added more refrigerant and the sniffer is beeping when poked into the front vents. Seems that next up is pulling the dash apart on Sunday to get to and test the front unit.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    If it yje Benz cooling system is anything like BMW's setup, I'd check the auxiliary fan resistor as well as the coolant temperature switch(es). One or the other usually goes Tango Uniform on a Bimmer.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 32,889
    edited May 2014

    Benz fan problem turned out to be a corroded connector. So easy fix although took a little while to figure out. Wasn't until about the 4th time unplugging that same connector that I got a real quick, brief response from the fan. Played with the fuel mixture, too, and now it idles much much better, although still hard starting and a slight stumble if you give too much gas from a dead stop. So more tweaking to do there.

    As for the van, holy cow! Book calls for 9.9 hours to remove and replace the front evaporator, and its definitely not an exaggeration. I have not found any instructions online so I was flying blind and it took me 5 hours to get it out. Here is a pic of the aftermath (even in this pic, you can't see where it used to be; it can be found in the very center of the dash sandwiched between the firewall and heater core).
    imageUntitled" alt="" title="" />

    I did not have any parts on me because I wasn't sure what the problem was. I was hoping for a bad o-ring, but it seems the expansion valve may be bad. Could not test inside the car, and bench testing proved challenging. Its $100 for the evaporator and valve, and given the labor involved here, I'm just getting and replacing both. Hindsight, ya know?

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Nasty business. Take your time. You don't want to do this job twice!

  • roadburnerroadburner Member Posts: 17,312

    @qbrozen:

    You should be aware that you are tackling a job that should only be attempted by a trained professional. You are endangering yourself and the lives of others, not to mention potential legal liability. Stop RIGHT NOW and have it towed to a qualified shop.

    (I felt like someone had to say it... ;):DB) )

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive

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