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Geo Metro Exterior and Body Work

Just got it.. love it.. but when I was out trying to make it all shiny I couldn't help but wonder if there is no clear coat there?? It's obviously been around for awhile without me in it's life and the decals are all in excellent (almost too good) condition so I have to wonder if somebody stripped it off before and applied new decals?? My question is basically this: were all 1990s shipped with clear coat? THANKS!!

Comments

  • My '89 Geo Metro LSi has some sort of clear coat and it still looks absolutely fabulous! My '94 Intrepid has the paint peeling off the roof and my '91 F150 has the paint starting to peel from the hood. My '89 is still standing the test of time.
  • I thought that my 1994 Geo Metro had white clear coat when I bought it in 1996, but when I went to touch it up, I noticed that wasn't the case. However, I drove that car for 12 years and never had a problem with the paint. It's possible that it was repainted if it looks that good after all this time. If you can ask the original owner, you might get a better answer because I think clear coat cost extra at that time.
  • I own a 1996 Chevy Geo Metro which for the most part has been a very reliable vehicle for my family.
    We bought the car brand new off the lot back in 1996.
    But just today I noticed that when i went to take the tire off to do a brake pad change, I noticed an area of rust in what I think is a critical spot to the point that I think this car is no longer drivable, except to drive it straight to the junk yard.
    I own a 1996 Chevy Geo sedan. The car has only 76,000 on it. Not much for being a 12 year old car. Thats why I find it dissapointing to find this out.
    I will try to add pictures for you to see, and please give me input weather you think this car is salvagable.
    The problem seems to be at the front of the framerail where it meets the A-Frame. Allmost all the frame seems to be rusted off at this location. I would think that running thru a large pothole may totally break the remaining steel left in this spot.
    I myself think the cars is no longer safe and am ready to junk it out so a possible major accident may occur.
    I would like some of you in the know to please respond. I want to know if I should get rid of it and find something different.
    Thanks

    OK, it appears I cannot add pictures, so I will leave links for you to view the pictures.
    thanks

    http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000485kj4.jpg
    http://img227.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000487fe5.jpg
    http://img262.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000484fw7.jpg
    http://img227.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1000489im8.jpg
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,068
    ... it's not the years, but the mileage. True, 76K is not a terribly large amount of miles for a 12 year old car, but the car hasn't been sitting in a garage not being run either. And that's a spot that's pretty exposed to the elements.

    Just on first glance that would seem like a spot that would cost more to fix than it's worth, but I'd want to get something more expert than my two cents on that.

    That mount for the front end of the lower control arm looks a bit precarious! Seems a shame since the little bit of the body work that shows in the one photo shows no signs of "cancer" around the fender. :sick:

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  • It is the common problem with these cars. I live in Michigan and my 98 Metro has 80K on it. I have been dousing the A-frame with used motor oil and old grease and I have had no problems. Then again, I've only had it since June 2007, and the car was in Michigan and Ohio before that, so I don't know what "trick" the previous two owners used. Barely any rust. Then again, I don't drive it too much in the winter.

    The cost "repair" (although "replacement" is the more appropriate word) will exceed the value of your car.

    I'm not sure what else you can do with low mileage. If you have the time and a friend (and yourself perhaps) who is adept in body work, you work on it yourself. But, it's a tedious job.
  • I am afraid my practice of dousing just a couple areas of the suspension arm (prone to rust...connecting to the control arm) is not going to be enough. How else can I prevent rust? I live in Michigan and I will not be doing a lot of driving this winter (maybe two days a week). What's ideal? This car has 80K and I'd like to keep it awhile. It's a 1998 hatchback.
  • geo4dekegeo4deke Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Chevy Metro Sedan with less than 50,000 miles. Recently spun out and wrecked the body to where it is not worth repairing. I am looking to purchase a similar metro with a bad engine and or transmission that I can swap out the engine and transmission from my car. Located in the Sacramento Area.
  • lbroughtonlbroughton Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Metro and the driver side rocker panel is rusted out. I cannot find a replacement. Does anyone know where I can Get a replacement panel. Thanks Leon
  • mona47mona47 Posts: 1
    I have recently put a new top on my "91" Geo Metro LSI.
    It did not come with any weather stripping. Chevrolet quit making it 3 years ago. What kind of weather stripping can I use. My body man is looking but he has had no luck yet. I can only drive it when weather is good. Never up. Please any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • I have a 1992 Geo Metro LXI convertible with 130K miles on the odometer. I've owned it since 1999 and it still runs like a top & looks great. Unfortunately, due to a failed safety latch, I now need to replace the hood of the car. Can anyone tell me what years & models shared the same hood as my '92 LXI convertible? Any info will be appreciated. Thanks. Lou
  • Do you still have your convertible? I just found your post and can help with the weather stripping issue.
    These roofs are very easy to seal if you get 1/4" thick by 2 inch wide ruber with adhesive on one side. place the on the plat that attaches to the roof not the frame of the car. make sure you cut out where the latch comes thru so that it doesn't bind.
    when closing the roof tight make sure the bar in the back that you snap to is loose. Do NOT have this snapped when try to close your top. once the top is closed then snap the back support bar in place it makes if very easy to open and close, plus it keeps your roof from becoming to loose.
    We did this to our 91 convertible geo metro and have not had any leaks. We are in Florida and have after noon storms daily.
    Hope this helps.
  • ronnieredlineronnieredline Posts: 1
    edited January 2013
    i have a 98 metro, it is a salvage vehicle.
    i bought it with something like 60,000 on it.
    it needed new bumper,grille pass fender etc...
    anyway, it is a great little car, nice run about for me.
    i kept going through brakes even replacing everything, so i let it sit for about 2 yrs.
    well i found the drivers side frame rotted out, needless to say , so does every one else.
    BUT i researched it.
    guess what i found??????
    the charcoal canister sucks fumes from the gas tank, well when the canister goes bad or saturates and cant nuetralize the gas fumes from the tank, so it puts out sulfur fumes from the gas fumes from the gas tank.
    well when the canister fails, the fumes in our fuel conatains sulfur, when sulfur is in a vapor form mixed with other contaminates in the fuel it makes sulfuric acid fumes ! ! !
    why does this have anything to do with the frame rot?
    because chevy put the exaust tube from the canister INTO the frame in a hole???
    its a factory hole and they did it!
    now sulfur is heavier so it falls down and condenses in the frame around the rack and pinion steering frame or hole.
    it also has a passage way to get to the passenger side frame as well.
    THIS IS WHY MINE ROTTED OUT if you reseach it, the frames are rotting from the inside out, not the outside in ! ! !
    what ive done is rebuilt the drivers side.
    then to end it all, ive plugged all the holes in the frame, drilled 1" holes in various places and used a funnel and poured in the gas tank sealer called red kote. then installed plastic body plugs.
    this seals alll welds and holes from the inside, then when your done, pull the plugs and let it drain back into the can. this seals all the insides.
    dont forget to plug the 2 small holes on either side of the frame rail past the front seats, tilt the car up on a jack and it will all run out the back frame rails if you want to.
    this will encapsulate all the rust and anything inside, thus it stops rust dead in its tracks.
    any questions please email me.
    look at your own metros, i bet the charcoal canister tube emties into the frame on the drivers side like mine does.
    what id like to say to the engineer who decided to do this huh?
    ronnieredline done for now.
  • 2000 Metro hatchback, automatic transmission--120,000 miles in Dec 2013. Engine needs replacing. Want to sell it. This is first time I've been on Edmunds. Don't know how to post an original comment. Please contact me. DonHendon1@gmail.com. I live near Las Vegas, Nevada.

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 6,068

    @donhendon said: 2000 Metro hatchback, automatic transmission--120,000 miles in Dec 2013. Engine needs replacing. Want to sell it. This is first time I've been on Edmunds. Don't know how to post an original comment. Please contact me. DonHendon1@gmail.com. I live near Las Vegas, Nevada.

    Since the engine needs to be replaced, you'll be selling for parts. You might try Craigslist, or you might want to look into local salvage yards. I'm not sure that buyers would be looking at it as a "fixer-upper", but you never know

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