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Ford F-150 Owners

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Comments

  • FordTruckFan25FordTruckFan25 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem If you find out what it is let me know.
  • pisto25pisto25 Member Posts: 2
    Ok I have a 2001 Ford F150 4x2 6 cyl. automatic transmission. I went to take off one morning and it reved up to about 4000 RPM's before I could get it to move. I check the tranny fluid and it was completly dry. I filled that back up and realised that I had a leak in one of my lines. Got that fixed but it still wont move in drive, first or second. I have reverse perfectly fine. Someone said to try and rock it while I had someone put into drive to see if we could get the valve unstuck (if that is even the problem), someone else to me to put a bottle of lucas tranny fluid in it so see if that would help. Anyone have any options? I dont want to trade it in right now bc i would get nothing for it with the tranny problem. Any advace would be great!
    thanks
    Aimee
  • newfynewfy Member Posts: 12
    Hi, My F 150 V8 4.6 (4x4) has blown the no.2 cylinder twice. The first time it did not strip out and a new plug and coil fixed it. Last nighn (in -11 degree newfy winter weather) it blew again. I tried to install anew plug but I cannot get it to screw in. could something have fallen in while I was removing the coil pack or could it be stripped out and have to be re-bored.How big a job is it to re-bore and what is involved.Thanks Tom :confuse: <img src=" Visit my NEWFY car space.
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Autozone sells a rethread kit with an insert with the 14mm thread. Takes about 15 minuts to do. Comes with the oversized tap and threaded insert.
  • 84pete84pete Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how many Pittsburgh Steeler 150's were produced in '04? Have called local dealer and FoMoCo with no luck.
  • sameasamea Member Posts: 1
    In the past 25 months all 4 of the electric window regulators on my 2005 F150 Super Crew have broken and the truck only has 57K miles on it. There is a loud pop and the window just falls into the door. The problem was the same for all, the plastic parts that retain the end of the drive cable let loose and then the cable unwraps from the motor pulley. Since Ford does not sell any service parts for these regulators the entire assembly must be replaced at a cost of about $200 each. So far it has cost me a total of $815.56 and I am extremely upset over this situation.
    As a comparison, I drove my 1985 and my 1994 F150's for 152K and 204K miles respectively and never had a single electric window problem with either. I have seen a lot of complaints about this problem on auto web sites and my Ford dealer service and parts staff admit there is a high failure rate on these regulators. Ford should issue a recall on these regulators and reimburse the costs paid by those of us who have had to replace them already. If not there should be a class action law suit filed!
  • jhull0919jhull0919 Member Posts: 1
    Question for you i took my starter to Autozone to get tested and they said it was [non-permissible content removed] because of the solenoid is there anyway i can just get that piece and it would be fine or would it be easier to buy the whole starter and just bit the bullet??? I have a 95 F150 4.9l V6 any help???? :sick:
  • ford150ford150 Member Posts: 1
    I have a fully restored f 150 1991 5.0 4x4. Some time back it started rev fluctuation. I replaced the IAC, it was better but now it will start fine when cold, cold idle fine, drop to curb idle fine for awhile and then just die, instantly. What's up with that? Nearly everything is new, engine, TPS, 02 sensor, IAC, wires, plugs, cap & rotor, fuel filter, ...GO figure !!!!!! Please Help..... Thank you
  • cleve94cleve94 Member Posts: 1
    Hi friends, I got a 94 5.8 small eight,auto/overdrive only 90,000 have never even had a tune up and runs real good ( but its about time for some plugs ) it did sit a few years ago for about a year and when I got her up running again the AC Compressor or the Clutch locked up. I then had all new hoses and belts put on and the next step was look for a deal on a rebuilt compressor. But for some reason it just freed up and never gave any trouble again til this season, I did try to run it every week or so as they say but its locked up again, Now I'am only a fair mech. but is it possible to tear down that compressor and rebuild it with a kit or fix clutch ect. I asked different people and couple mechanics and I get a long blank look and no answer. but I dont have the $300. $650 plus labor I've seen quoted and hear in S">outhern Cailf. you gotta have air or forget it. Thank you for any thing you you might advise . Cleve
  • don787don787 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, I can't believe I have to ask this question but here goes . . . How do you get an oil filter off of a 2007 F-150, V8 5.4L? I've got it up on ramps and can get one hand on it, but I can't get both hands on it and there is no way to get an oil filter wrench on it. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • markbrown1967markbrown1967 Member Posts: 1
    i need a list of the fuses in 2005 f-150
  • rjr2565rjr2565 Member Posts: 27
    I think chevrolet must be using the same vendor. I replaced my power units twice for the driver side and once on the passenger side.Truck is a 2000 silverado ext.cab with 64000 mi. Never had a power winow fail before.
  • elbbirpelbbirp Member Posts: 2
    When I shut off and then restart my truck, there is an intermittent high pitched noise accompanied by an unsteady too low idle speed. If I do nothing it usually dies or dies as soon as I put it in gear. If I give it some gas I can keep it running, and after a minute or so the problem disappears completely. I replaced the Idle Air Control which had no effect on the problem. The noise sounds sort of like maybe the air pump that is not getting enough air, but I can unplug the air pump and the problem remains.
    Thanks.
  • sadfordownersadfordowner Member Posts: 1
    Have had several episodes of truck suddenly accelerating. Even with brake pushed to floor, truck continues to go full throttle. After placed in neutral and tuned off/on, goes back to running normally. Has happened in drive and reverse. Each time has been at slow speed or slowing to stop. Dealer finds no problem, but on National Highway Transportation Safety Ad site, has dozen or more complaints listed. Truck has less than 7000 miles on it. Any one with luck on this? Dealership states Ford has no "bulletins" out on this "concern."
  • bob237bob237 Member Posts: 6
    Finally, I have found my problem with the surging of my truck with light acceleration. It was my air cleaner, it looks' good but my friend took it all the way out and it was filthy. I put a new air filter in and have had no problem and it has been a couple months.The engine was starving for air with light acceleration and was all right when I gave it more gas.
    Thank's for all the sugestions and help, great group
    Bob237
  • davis53davis53 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever solve this problem? If you did please tell me how?
  • bob237bob237 Member Posts: 6
    the air filter looked good but when I took it out it was almost pluged solid so with light acceleration it wasn't getting enough air.21/2 years nobody could find the problem.Put a new filter in and 3 months now and no problem also gained 4 mpg.
    The dealeres were very surprised.
    Bob
  • davis53davis53 Member Posts: 3
    I solved this hesitation problem. My truck acted the same as yours. One of the answers was the removal of the rear tank which gave me a clue to solve the problem. I simply loosened the fuel cap of the tank in use. Yes it is a venting problem. The hesitation probem went away. Now I need to solve why the tanks wont vent.
  • miller606miller606 Member Posts: 1
    1999 F150 which is the return/outlet transmission line from the radiator top or bottom.

    I have a 1999 F-150 5.4L v8 with a 4r100 transmission, and I need to know which is the transmission return line from the radiator in order to install an aux. cooler. Its important that its a 1999 because I've been told that new f150's have a different setup from the 1999. I've tried touching the lines after start up with little luck on feeling which one is hotter. If you have a 1999 f150 with a aux cooler or you know this answer I appreciate your help.
    Thanks
  • cohiba007cohiba007 Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at getting a F150 King Ranch and have driven both the 4x4 and 4x2. I don't need a 4x4 but think that the ride is better. Seems more sturdy. However, I do a lot of hwy driving between FL and GA, about 3k a month. Aside from the MPG, am I crazy for wanting a 4x4?
  • cohiba007cohiba007 Member Posts: 2
  • tickets1tickets1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey everyone,

    I've found a truck that I like but wanted to get everyone's opinion.

    I found an 04 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat with 96k miles. If I bought it, I'd have to finance it 4 years to get the payment I want. Is that too many miles for it to still be reliable? I don't want to buy it and then start dealing with all kinds of problems because of the mileage.

    Thanks for the help,
    Joe
  • tickets1tickets1 Member Posts: 2
  • tmcburneytmcburney Member Posts: 8
    I recently purchased a 93 F150 Flare Side for my son. This is my first experience with the truck. How can I determine what body components are stock and what are after-market additions? Fiberglass accents on the fenders / quarter panels and wheel wells, and the step / running boards by the cab entry doors for instance?

    One of the wheel well accents is cracked, and the tubing under the running boards is rusted out and needs replacing. I am wondering where to look for replacement parts or, alternately if all of this is aftermarket, whether to look to repair or remove and replace.

    Thanks,
    Tom
  • tmcburneytmcburney Member Posts: 8
  • newdelmannewdelman Member Posts: 2
    I bought a 98 F-150 about 2 years ago in a private sale. I did not go to any dealer for this transaction. There are only two problems I haven't been able to address:

    When I turn on the headlights, the dash lights fail to come on. Night driving is difficult because the lights don't work so the driver cannot see the gauges nor the speedometer. I have tried to clean the light switch but this didn't do anything. Does anyone have an idea of what the problem is?

    Second, the door alarm sounds whenever the driver's door is opened. If the key is in the ignition or the lights are left on, the alarm should sound. But when the key is in my pocket, just opening the door sets off the alarm. Pressing the steering shaft enclosure will temporarily stop the alarm but after a few seconds the alarm again sounds. Does anyone know what the problem is?

    I have heard that the light switch problem is a common problem for the F-150. Is this true?

    Thank you for your help.
  • cody28cody28 Member Posts: 1
    i bought a 1995 f150 4x4 in 2007 it had 95,072 miles.the only thing i hate about it is that the truck is weak. It has no top end torque. It cant even do a burnout unless the road is wet. But what can you expect out of a 5.0 liter v8 302 with about 172 hp. What i like about it is that it can take you anywhere you want to go through the mud up hills you name it. the fords like mine have a exhaust leak problem,you can hear it when you go down the road which irritates me because it sounds crappy. And another thing that sucks about it is that it gets poor gas mileage at 15 mpg,it could be better and the transmission shifts hard at about 30-35mph if you stomp on the gas. I had to replace the starter and a tie rod and fix a wire on the transmisson.
  • jh1954jh1954 Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same issue's on my 2008 FX4. It turned out it was me. I have the power adjustable pedals (gas and brake) and if you look they are really close together. This truck is unique in that the brake pedal when pressed will go below the level of the gas pedal when pressed. I found out that I was pressing on the brake pedal and gas pedal at the same time when I thought I was just applying the brakes and not realizing this was happenning. So, every time I apply my brakes now, I have to check and make sure I am not pressing the gas pedal also. It was a process I had to teach myself.
  • cruisin66cruisin66 Member Posts: 12
    I mentioned this in other forums, but felt it was worth repeating... If you are a F-150 owner - try to check out the Ford Owners ( http://www.fordowner.com) website.

    It has Towing & Hauling advice including understanding your payload. Also helps with keeping everything online, and allows you to keep track of your cars&#146; complete maintenance records, calendar/mileage of recommended maintenance, and tons of coupons to use when you have your car checked at a Ford dealer.
  • wdhytewdhyte Member Posts: 92
    hey, do these trucks have a cabin air filter and if so, where is it? I found a replacement filter at Autozone (IF one exists in the 2001 Lariat SC of course).
    TIA...Dave
  • labaker52labaker52 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 F-150 4X4. When I put the truck in 4 wheel drive the light on the dash comes on but the front wheels do not engage. Any ideas.

    Allen
  • process79process79 Member Posts: 3
    my 92 f150 nite is :sick: ...... i havent heard it run in 6 years now. it used to be my dads, and one day during my senior year, he went out and started it to go to work, it ran for about 2 minutes, then stalled out, and hasnt started since. well after tracing down a thousand different issues, i believe i finally have it licked,but i am faced with yet another issue. to tell you the full story, i have hooked a scan tool up to it, and had code after code come up, so i replaced the computer, did nothing, moved on to changing out sensor after sensor.....i.e. mass airflow, throttle position, so forth and so on, i even replaced the fuel pressure regulator, thinking maybe it wasnt getting the proper fuel amount. no such luck. now the thing i have found interesting is that there is no crank positioning sensors, or cam positioning sensors on these 302's. well finally a ford tech friend of mine told me to check the timing, it was off, way off, id say 2 or 3 teeth, so i reset the timing, and checked to make sure the distributor turned right away, and it wasnt a slapped timing chain. well i got all of this set, and the right firing order set (since there is two different ones for the 302's) and this is not a high output engine. i put a battery in it and went to turn the key, and the key wont turn. the steering wheel and ignition are locked, and no matter what i try i cant get them to unlock. wiggle the steering wheel both ways, wiggle the shift lever on the steering stem, both at the same time, i cant get it to unlock to save my life and im out of ideas, outside of chancing the whole steering stem out out. :mad: has anybody had similar issues before? or know any ideas, and does this truck fall under the saftey recall for the ignition switch? im getting sick of this and starting to think its a :lemon: so any advise would be greatly appreciated, and for 22 years old, im quite knowledgeable so dont be afraid to ask any questions in return.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A reporter for a major daily newspaper is looking for someone who just purchased a new Ford F-150 and why you purchased the vehicle. Please send your daytime phone number to ctalati@edmunds.com by July 1, 2010.
  • ktolly1ktolly1 Member Posts: 1
    About to blown our kool-got 1995F150 rebuilt tran.and servo and power pack new dist,wires,plug and used good computer.Cranks and will run but reverseing kills it every time..After hundreds of dollars and three mechanics we still do not know what to do help....
  • mysupercrewmysupercrew Member Posts: 1
    I'm glad you figured this out before you had an accident. I have a 2007 SuperCab w/o power pedals that use to scare the heck out me. I finally realized like you that I was pressing the accelerator when I pressed the brake causing the truck to race forward when I was trying to stop. This is not good for traffic signals. I think the pedals are a little to close to each other. Other than that Great Truck!
  • Karen_SKaren_S Member Posts: 5,092
    A reporter seeks to talk with any Ford F-150 driver whose airbag deployed unexpectedly. Please email pr@edmunds.com today, April 14, 2011, if you care to share your story.
  • ralphdiditralphdidit Member Posts: 3
    awesome idea
  • rickey6565rickey6565 Member Posts: 1
    The heat actuator valve in the dash is a common failure to several Ford models. And it happened to me on my 2000 Ford 150. The common fix is to take the whole dash out and replace the plastic actuator door with a new one or on the computer , they sell you a do it yourself kit that you can go through the glovebox. This actuator is a pain in the butt. Sometimes no heat in winter or in my case, had heat in the summer..WHEW....nevertheless, here's my quick fix much simpler than any I found on the internet or elsewhere.......go to the hardware store , get a ball cutoff valve and two nipples, 3/8 size, and two hose clamps, cut the inbound water line to the heater under your hood just past the 90 degree turn it makes and install your ball valve.....instant air......!!!! Need heat??? Turn you valve on....total cost about 10 dollars and 30 minutes at most...
  • flaco54flaco54 Member Posts: 1
    :confused: 1998 f-150 w/v6 overheating remove thearmost its ok but water doesnt seem to be flowing heater hoses dont get hot--install thearmost engin over heats starts clattering and spilling water from fill tank ??????????????
  • davis53davis53 Member Posts: 3
    Is the thermostat installed backwards? I have done it before.
  • steveaspesisteveaspesi Member Posts: 46
    I wish I had your mechanic. My window regulator, which has been slow from day one finally gave out at 60,000 miles ('04 F150). I dropped the truck off at my local Ford shop in Sunnyvale to have warraty work and the window fixed. They quoted me $500 to replace one window regulator. I was already $140 into it for just having them "diagnose" the problem. These guys could of easily told me what it would cost up front, but they had me over a barrel when they said it would cost $500. After telling them what an independant shop would charge (half as much) they knocked off 10%. I feel sorry for anyone who has to use a Ford dealer and their price structure for repair work.
  • r15r15 Member Posts: 1
    My husband has this truck for 4 years it is more when a problem. This year we spend $11,000.00 in repairs already. Engine, transmission and all other problems, yes it has 157000 miles, but it seems what after 150000 miles you have to rebuild a new Ford or put it in a dumpster. From a lot of reviews I feel what this car is defected , so I tried to contact Ford factory complaint center, but the only think they can do is register complain.
    I will try to post complain at Better business bureau and if they will get enough complains will start to investigate. I feel it is not safe to drive this car and it is so unfair what you buying a car only to drive up to 150000 miles and when it is over &#131;¼((( I hope if someone has similar issues will complain at the better business bureau too.
  • temj12temj12 Member Posts: 450
    I own two F 150's. One is a 2007 and one is a 2011. The 2007 has a tough suspension and you feel the road. The 2011 is much more refined. I have been happy with both. Consumer Reports refers to the Silverado as more refined in its handling. Why is that?
  • rlmxrlmx Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2011
    At 53-55 MPH the bed of my F-150 (60K miles, short bed, 6 cyl., manual transmission) shakes so bad, emanating from the rear driver side, that it makes me sick to my stomach. So far the spend/repairs have included working on the e-brake, balancing the tires, rotating the tires and purchasing two new rear tires.

    The mechanic is now suggesting that the tires on the front of the vehicle are causing the rear to shake. I am not a rocket scientist, but something about that logic does not wash. I respectfully disagree.

    I was very disappointed that Ford had nothing on their records for a problem that is less than uncommon. A call to Ford did not give me any confidence that the issue will be resolved without randomly throwing money at the dealer so he can continue to either keep guessing or skillfully playing me like a fiddle, I cannot tell which path he is on. I hope the former.

    This is very frustrating. I have been in IT for 15 years, Microsoft plays the same game. They release products with bugs which leads to hundreds of complaints that somehow, if not magically, Microsoft is not aware of.

    I spoke with another mechanic that I trust. He owns a shop that focuses primarily on the high-end vehicles (e.g. A Ferrari was perched on his lift when I stopped in at his garage). He immediately shared a story of a friend that had the same vehicle with the same problem. After the tire rotation/balancing route, he changed the U-joints and had the drive shaft professionally balanced. All to no avail, the owner rid himself of the vehicle.

    A pointer to a sure solution would be much appreciated. This dollars are coming out of my pocket to fix this. The game of randomly throwing money is not an acceptable solution.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    A reporter would like to speak to a loyal F-150 owner who is considering replacing his old truck. If you have owned F-150s, think it may be time to replace your aging truck and would like to share your story, please send your daytime contact info to PR@edmunds.com no later than Friday, Jan 18, 2013 at 8 a.m. PT/11 a.m. ET.
  • newfynewfy Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the website. Finally found my owner manual. Tom :)
  • erikaideerikaide Member Posts: 1

    Looking at a 99 F150 with 132k. Dealer says transmission was rebuilt. We test drove it and found that the needle doesn't line up with the letters (R,D,1, 2, etc). When we got back he said that was just from sitting cold, that the rubber band gets stiff (we're up here in Massachusetts). Same with slight vibration we felt- he said that was from the tires sitting cold but that after 5 miles the tires warm up and vibration goes away. It's a beautiful truck, but the price seems low....originally asking $2500. Too good to be true?

  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516

    @erikaide said:
    Looking at a 99 F150 with 132k. Dealer says transmission was rebuilt. We test drove it and found that the needle doesn't line up with the letters (R,D,1, 2, etc). When we got back he said that was just from sitting cold, that the rubber band gets stiff (we're up here in Massachusetts). Same with slight vibration we felt- he said that was from the tires sitting cold but that after 5 miles the tires warm up and vibration goes away. It's a beautiful truck, but the price seems low....originally asking $2500. Too good to be true?

    The indicator being off the letters was a result of thew transmission reinstallation and the mechanic not double-checking the shifter linkage with the indicator... it can be readjusted. Has nothing to do with sitting. The tires could cause such a vibration, but if the rest of the truck seems ok, get fresh shoes on it as soon as you can, along with an alignment.

  • jimsouthjimsouth Member Posts: 8

    I posted this under it's own thread ( F 150 Frame Failing ) for input from other F 150 owners who may have experienced the same problem. Jim I purchased a Ford F 150 - 4wd - std transmission - manual hubs, new, in 1995. I ordered the 4.9 ( 300 cu in ) in line 6 cylinder engine. I was well aware of the engines track record; and the availability of the 4.9 liter in line 6 was the very reason I made the purchase. A brutally powerful engine - reasonable gas mileage - incredibly dependable ( does not know the meaning of the word "quit" ). One major tune up in 15 years, Every previous diagnostic showed all codes in order. ( PLATINUM PLUGS ). Problem is, now, at just over 100,000 miles ( little more than a break in period for that engine ) , the frame & undercarriage is failing. What good is owning a truck with a drive train that can hit up to 500,000 miles when it's sitting on a frame that is ready to break in half at 100,000 miles. I can only make an educated guess, that Ford contracted different rolling mills to manufacture the F 150 frames, and some used different alloys that were more inclined to rust & decay. I have seen ( in my area of PA ) F 150s ( identical design ) 8 & 10 years older than mine with frames still in very good condition. I have been in contact with Ford, and hopefully, the problem will be resolved. Footnote: Why the 4.9 engine was discontinued is beyond me - all I can come up with is, they don't wear out - and if they don't wear our - the truck will not be traded in. Just me. Jim

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    @rlmx said:
    At 53-55 MPH the bed of my F-150 (60K miles, short bed, 6 cyl., manual transmission) shakes so bad, emanating from the rear driver side, that it makes me sick to my stomach. So far the spend/repairs have included working on the e-brake, balancing the tires, rotating the tires and purchasing two new rear tires.

    Has anyone ever checked the rear wheel alignment on this truck?

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