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Options, as far as what I have found out the side impact (seat mounted) airbag and anti lock brakes are going to be standard on the upscale models, like the SLT and LT, but options on base models like the SLE. The 4 wheel discs are here to stay for the trucks, GM was nagged too long and too hard about poor braking on the trucks and SUVs so that feature will be permanent.
'03 Tahoe-sorry about that your picts are on the way!!
it. Twice when I was stopped at a light and started to go the transmission seemed to slip as if the tires were spinning then catch a second later and drive normally. The 1st time it happen I thought it possible the tires did slip because the road was wet. But the 2nd time the road was dry. Anyone have this happen to them? Any ideas?
I thought I read here that the little plastic disk was some sort of temperature sensor, but when I mentioned the whirring noise to my technician, he said the little plastic disk was the ON-star speaker and he didn't see how it could make a whirring noise.
I know I've also read about the "whirring" noise coming from above the driver's seat on this forum before ... but can't find it now.
Help!
Thanks a lot / Pierre (from France)
C.A.F.E.
(^$^&$*#^$%$%)*(%&%*(&$%
Id love to see it but it wont happen (unless you are jay leno who is the only person to have a 1500 reg cab with a 6.0 installed by gm)
http://www.chevrolet.com/csv/pickup/sil1500hd/index.htm
GVWR for the 2500 (non HD) is 8600 and the GVWR for the 1500HD is 8600. Both have 8 lug rims.
1500HD = 2500
They named it a 1500HD to appeal to more people (GM marketing) cause the average joe would buy a 1500 over a 2500
when the roads were wet or dry. I also tend to have a light foot on the gas, so I don't feel
it's that.
jwbray: How is that possible for the yolk to slip?
There are no clutches in the drive shaft, it's a
solid connection. I'm glad you answered I thought
it was just me. I'm going to take it in & see
what the dealer tells me. I'll let you know.
Does it seem to get worse or more frequent over time? Other wise does your tranny work OK? also does your truck shift at the same speed all the
time? My truck will not go into 4th gear till
50MPH.
I do not currently own a Suburban, but can at least share an experience.
I test drove a 2002 3/4 ton 2wd Suburban last week. I noticed the slippage. I would notice the slippage once I stopped as I was getting ready to "go" again, ie. a redlight/greenlight change. I was also using a light foot so I could "feel" the truck better during the test drive. The pavement was dry, no painted surfaces nearby. I would apply pressure to the gas pedal, the engine would begin to accelerate, the vehicle would sit there for about 1.5~2 seconds, and then the vehicle would begin to move. Based on my knowledge of these powertrains, I would think that the problem is in the torque converter or transmission pump. If you had an old TH350 GM automatic that was really low on transmission fluid, it would do the same thing. However, I cannot recall if I observed this problem at every stop and go transaction or if it did it even after the engine and transmission was hot and had been running for a while. For the record, this suburban was a 3/4 ton, 3.73 gears, 2wd, 6.0L, and for some reason, it did not have a trans. temp gauge. I thought all 3/4 tons had a trans temp gauge?
I have not had any problems with this vehicle and will go to the dealer service department for the first time in May to check for any error codes/ recalls etc.
Scott
they will not attempt repair. They say call if happens again. Has stopped running while driving numerous times. Every time they say no error codes. No repair even attempted. Wife now afraid to drive it - has stopped on her many times. Takes up to 20 minutes to restart. This defect creates a potential deathtrap. Oh yeah, the transmission slips also. Any other info??
E-Mail: hscw@bellsouth.net
Have you reported the dealers refusal to attempt service to any automotive safety council? If not you should. Engine cut-outs at highway speeds can cause loss of life. How would you like to attempt a lane change, only to have the engine shut down just as you are halfway between the two lanes. The sudden loss of power could cause multiple collisions in the two lanes.
For this serious type of failure the dealer knows that a test set can be installed in your vehicle to trap failure codes. They can do more. Many codes clear when the engine is shut down and then restarted.
I would NOT simply call the dealer when it happens again. I would take the truck in for service every time the truck stalls out. KEEP A GOOD,ACCURATE RECORD and process a Lemon Law buy-back. It is far better to go thru this process than chance the loss of life.
I started the vehicle in a parking lot... and immediately put it in forward gear... I pressed the accelerator.. that awful feeling.. almost like a blown tranny ...I put it in neutral... then Park...kept the engine running... never happened again.. all was fine...
the only conclusion I can come to was that I 'beat' the computer by putting it in gear too fast after starting... sounds silly..... dealer said they never heard of it... I think they 'fib'... I'm sure if it happened to both our 'burbans it's happened to many many more... got to be a 'computer thing' that recycles and goes back to 'norm' hasn't happened since last year to either vehicle
maybe someone else on here has seen/heard of it on other message boards...
Under the section known as "General Discussion - GM Customer Service" please read post 19. "Hub Cap" tells of his 100% small claims court success and offers help to others.
You might also try your local Better Business Bureau and your State Attorney Generals Office.
You also have the right to ask your dealer for a contact Name and Number for the Local Zone Office.
By the way what is the Dealers exact name - the one who can`t fix your truck. Others considering purchases might want to know of this service "lack of ability".
It's just a guess but it could be a bad crank sensor, and that should have been replaced as standard practice to ensure that is not the problem.
the problem would be unheard of. But I guess
judging from the responses that this is another
little quirk we can add to GM's list of glitches
they don't want to fix!
From what I can tell, the 2500 6.0 engine should have just the same amount of towing power as my 454 TBI motor,and better mileage to boot.
Although usually used for my wife's transporting kids to and from school, basketball etc..., I do have occasion to tow (6000lbs+)some steep grades in and out of Southern California.
Does anyone have any towing experiences between the 6.0 and the 8.1?
I test drove an 8.1 and it kicked butt!....but
reports of it being at least 4 mpg worse than the 6.0 are tempering my desire.
Do you folks have any first hand experience that could aid me in my decision making?
Thanx!
the 6.0. We sometimes tow a trailer weighing approx. 6400 lbs. It seemed to strain a little even on fairly flat roads. Had numerous problems
with vehicle - GM bought back after 2200 miles.
That is when we bought the 2500 series that we are having the engine stopping problem with.
Post 2170
The 8.1 engine tows this same trailer with ease.
First off whered ya get that?
Sorry to hear of your Suburban Problems.
I know how it feels as when our 95 was brand new it shipped with a defective engine block!
The 8100 is enticing.
If it weren't for the fact that the Ford Excursion is actually 2000 pounds heavier (and less powerful)and that Dodge does not even make a Suburban-style vehicle, we would have bailed on the GM option. They(GM)still hold center court.
As I read here I keep seeing Trans-Slipping reports. Has there been a fix or recall for these seemingly common problems?
For 2002 AVALANCHE
DENALI
ESCALADE
SUBURBAN
TAHOE
YUKON
Cost is $120.00 + Shipping of about $6.00
The 95 was the last year before the Vortec. The Vortec did indeed have extra power. I was just one year early.
We are also leaning toward 6.0 and 4.10 gears.
So I went to the engine shop today and saw first hand what a spun rod bearing can do to a crankshaft!
I sure hope I have better luck with the new models!
Say, is there any info yet anywhere on the 03 XLs and Suburbans?
else having this trouble?
I have had 8 Suburbans in 15 years. 86,94,95,96,
97,99, 01 and 02(z-71)
I have had two lemons 94 for OIL CONSUMPTION and
97 for Electrical Issue that caught truck on fire.
96 was a Paint (lemon peel problem) issue but
too late to do anything with it. Had it 54 months
was in shop 7 of them.
02 is ok so far. 95 was a used one with the odometer rolled back.
Christ, I have had some luck with Suburbans.
But the mileage is an issue. Anyone with the
same problem.
When I drive at 65 I heard tapping noises
coming from the engine. Anybody else
have that.
Email me lafnjim@wt.net
Other factors are how you drive and how often you sit at idle.
I have a 5.3 2002, it gets about 15 and 18+. I drive it at whatever speed is prevailing on the highway, and try not to idle too long (at the store, if I am waiting for my wife -- for example). If the traffic is really bad I'll go to about 13 but is the rare occasion and low end.
There are several other web sites try this one navigate around it to the big truck forums, yours is a topic on there.
chevytalk.org
Good luck.
Wow back in december 2000 i drove in 4 wheel hi and autotrac for a whole month. Only seen about a .5 - 1mpg loss with 3 fillups
I dont know if itll make you feel better but i filled up yesterday and i got 11.6 mpg which was 100% city driving. Mainly because of my stlye of driving (short trips, stop light to stop light racing)
TIA
Charles Hahn
My good buddy only has service manuals for 1999, 2000 and 2001 years. Just for kicks, tomorrow I will compare these three years to see if the codes stay the same. Maybe GM keeps the same codes year after year.
CH
During highway speed driving, the vehicle feels unstable..it feels as though the tail will, without warning, shift to either the right or left, requiring steering reaction to correct the vehicle, or it would go onto the shoulder or the next lane. (I have never had this feeling with any of the previous vehicles, and with the much publicized improved handling on the new generation suburbans, this is very disapointing).
Has anyone else experienced this problem? Should I pursue this with the dealer? My 'burb is a 2wd 1500 with autotrac.
Thanks in advance to all who respond.
Rock
For the 2002`s
There are 126 pages covering ABS Systems.
There are 79 Diagnostic Trouble Codes listed.
All of this information is in Volume 1 of a four volume set.
Coverage begins on page 5-120 and runs through page 5-246.
The codes start with C-0201 and run thru C-0298.
At the end there were a few odd ball codes such as P-1571, P-1644 and P-1689. There are about 24 numbers missing in this otherwise sequential list.
You said a number is flashing - does it fall with-in this number/letter series? If you can give me a code I`ll at least check all three years and see if the code changes.
Would like to help more but I am NOT a auto repair person.
Just hanging in here looking for 2003 Chevy SUV ordering info.
Another thing to check is the brake light wiring, if you have a trailer light harness tied into the brake lights it could be shorting out causing the problem. I don't know how it is connected to the ABS system, but I have disconnected or fixed several harnesses and that took care of the light flashing.
I have made 3 long hwy trips had speeds over 80 (if conditions and others allowed), with anywhere from 1 (me) to 4 people, and both empty and pretty heavy full loads and still nothing like what you are describing. Either here or on the Tahoe forum, someone mentioned something about the torsion bar, could that be a clue?
Otherwise a trip to dealerville might be in order.
Good Luck
CH
1. Start with the ignition OFF, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel. Turn the ignition key ON (do not start), OFF, ON, OFF . Release power unlock button on the door panel. The locks will cycle once.
2. Hold down the keyless entry transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons for 15 seconds. The locks will again cycle once.
3. Repeat step # 2 for each additional transmitter.
4. Turn the ignition ON to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode. Programming is now complete.