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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • woody555woody555 Member Posts: 9
    just traded in my 99 burb for a 2004 Yukon XL. This one has Auto Ride and self leveling rear shocks. Any idea on how I set up my equilizer trailer hitch? Air shocks on or engine off and shocks settled?
  • crocusiriscrocusiris Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 1997 Suburban LT with an aftermarket Audiovox overhead LCD screen and VHS player. I'm really happy about the purchase so far. The car has 105K miles on it and it appears that the two previous owners took good care of it. It is a second car for the family and I won't be putting too many miles on it - maybe less than 5k a year. Other than rapid wear on the front bakes (a problem reported in various sites) what other maintenance issues should I be on the look-out for? How many more miles can I expect out of this vehicle? I will not tow anything and I will not be taking off the road. Also, I am a fairly conservative driver. I look forward to reading your comments.

    Charles
  • kbmortonkbmorton Member Posts: 8
    I recently purchased a 2004 white Yukon XL with the Autoride air suspension. My question is this, does the Autoride give you a better ride over the standard "Premium Ride" suspension, or is it just for load leveling. Also has anyone purchased "Stabilatrack" AWD option vs. the 2H, 4H and 4L transfer case. If so, what are your impressions. I work for Verizon Wireless and was able to purchase my Yukon using a "GM Supplier Discount (Verizon supplies the On-Star network for GM) and loved the $7,000 plus savings.
    Also, has anyone had any problems with their 2004 Yukon's.

    I look forward to reading the responses from fellow Yukon owners.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    Should improve ride and load leveling. Cehck your tire pressure as well. Should be 30-32.
  • rominalavirominalavi Member Posts: 1
    I've heard a few people complain about the onstar system and wanted to share my opinion. This is my first time posting, so I apologize if I don't follow some kind of custom that I don't know about.

    I previously owned a 2001 Chevy Blazer with onstar and then bought a Mercedes E320 (2003) which came with Mercedes TeleAid system. Its supposed to be a competitor of onstar. Yesterday I bought a 2004 Suburban again with onstar. Let me tell you, comparing the systems Onstar is hands down a superior system. I will never buy another Mercedes, mostly because I hate their TeleAid system. First, it takes forever to speak with someone, second, they charge you per minute while you are on hold!!! I think the onstar system is great, and I never have to wait to talk to an advisor. Just my opinion...
  • resque84resque84 Member Posts: 21
    I have a 2003 Suburban LT with StabiliTrack, I couldn't find it on any dealer lot so I had to order it from scratch.I had a 2000 Yukon XL with autoride and with the regular 2H,4H and 4L system, so I guess I can compare them fairly honestly.The StabiliTrack AWD system is so much better than the regular transfer case.It has AWD all the time and the option to go into 4L for a big storm or deep mud.I have tried, in the last snow storm we had, to spin out on turns and I COULDN'T , it just won't let you !! Pulling through the big pile of snow the township plow dumped in front of my driveway was a breeze as well.I ordered the stabiliTrack because I felt it was a little safer than the regular system as it works all the time, even on dry as well as wet pavement .As far as Autoride goes, it is MUCH more comfortable than the premium suspension.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    I have it on my '03 YXL and I think it's great, too! Just drove back from Reno the other day and I was just "cruising" along while other vehicles (both 4wd and chain/cable) were just putt-putting along, relatively speaking. Not once during the snow-covered stretch of freeway did my YXL feel like it was gonna lose traction, and if it weren't for the crappy Firestone Wilderness LE tires I probably would have been able to bump the speed up a notch or two (no flames about driving fast in the snow--it's not like I was doing freeway speeds!)...

    Plus Stabilitrak gives you a little bit of an extra safety margin as far as traction control is concerned while driving on wet pavement (e.g. when it's raining) vs. that when enabling Auto 4WD on the Autotrac-enabled GM 4wd vehicles.
  • aa555zzaa555zz Member Posts: 55
    The main, and possibly the only, advantage that Autotrac has over Stabilitrak,, is the ability to equip your vehicle with the locking rear axle option.

    If you do a lot of driving in very low traction situations, then a vehicle equipped with Autotrac and the locking rear axle would probably be the best choice. Especially, if the terrain causes one wheel on each axle to have little or no traction.

    If all your driving is on the highway a Stabilitrak equipped vehicle is probably the best choice.
  • looramlooram Member Posts: 17
    The current OnStar Systems in All GM vehicles will become non operational by Fall of 2008. A friend of mine showed me a in house memo(he works for GM) that says all current OnStar systems will not work beyond the above date because OnStar is Analog not Digital. The FCC is ordering all analog transmissions to end by the fall of 2008. Apparently the FCC is going to use the analog frequencies for something else. GM is working to put a digital system in all 2006 models. The memo also states that at the present time there is not going to be a conversion kit to upgrade the current analog OnStar to the Digital due to cost. This also applies to all analog cell phones,as they use the same frequencys.
  • kiilewkiilew Member Posts: 17
    I am having some problems with the Catch All floor mats in my 2000 Suburban, and I am wondering if anyone has suggestions with respect to working with these mats or purchasing a better design. I like the floor coverage and protection the Catch Alls offer, but I find that their fit is less than perfect.

    I have found that it is virtually impossible to place the front passenger mat in a position that will prevent passengers from pulling them off of their carpet anchors. Even worse, the second row mat interferes with that seat row's sliding mechanism. The result is that when anyone enters the third row of seats, the second row floor mat is torn away from it's mount on the right side.

    Any suggestions?
  • viperrulzviperrulz Member Posts: 17
    Anyone know what the next set of incentives will be after the current ones expire the 12th of this month? I'm going to be getting a Suburban, but I don't know if I should wait and see if Chevrolet will give better incentives. Thanks for the help.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    I havent had a problem with the mats coming loose. I did have the second row problem. I cut out 2 pieces of sheet metal and mounted it under the seat. The mat slides under the sheet metal and I eliminated the catching problem.
  • hawk248hawk248 Member Posts: 27
    Last Tuesday, while driving on a rural snow/ice covered road, my '03 Z71 suburban lost control and spun around. It came close to ending up in a roadside ditch. But, luckily the rear bumber hit a roadside post and the vehicle came to a stop. Just before the spin, I tried to slow down and realized I had no traction. The ABS kicked in, but did not help the skid. I was doing about 40 MPH or little under it.

    At that time (before the spin), I had 2 wheel drive switch selected. I wonder if it would have been different had I selected Autotrac or 4-hi on that slick pavement.

    The damage was minimum, just the plactic center piece on the rear bumber came off. No other scratch. After the spin, I selected 4x4 switch and drove carefully to the destination.

    I am sure stabilitrac would have corrected the skid, but I opted for Z71 for it's agressive looks and bigger wheels. However, I am very happy with the truck and will be more careful on the icy conditions from now on. I perhaps overestimated the ability of Z71 burb to handle slippery conditions.

    Any recommendations on where to get that center plastic cover on the rear bumber for a '03 Z71? A dealer is the last resort.
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    but I have no advice on where to find the piece. :)

    Jim
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    Only helps in acceleration, not braking. Stabilitrac and ABS help with braking/steering situations
  • mkarpmkarp Member Posts: 22
    Am interested in a 99 suburban diesel. Can anyone advise on what the real world mpg would be? should I be concerned with any maintenance issues (approx 75-85k)?
  • aa555zzaa555zz Member Posts: 55
    Check this website for floor mats. I have these in my vehicle and they work great. However, they are expensive.
    http://www.foxweatherboots.com/
  • smwatson95smwatson95 Member Posts: 3
    first timer here - be gentle! i am looking at buying a suburban or denali xl with second row captains chairs and third row seat options. currently i drive a venture mini-van, and it's getting time to look for a newer vehicle. i'm expecting # 4, so i'm looking for something with lots of room. these have tons of room behind the third row! anyway, i was wondering if anyone could give me some information on what they're like to drive, how they handle, and what kind of gas mileage i can expect. i do a lot of highway driving, and quite a few gravel roads, too. this will be the family vehicle, so any suggestions on putting a tv vcr/dvd in there would be most welcome. thanks for any information you can give me.
    sandra
  • aa555zzaa555zz Member Posts: 55
    It is hard to know if StabiliTrak would have prevented your skid. StabiliTrak will prevent some skids, however, the laws of physics still apply.
  • watchdog3watchdog3 Member Posts: 29
    After some initial research I now know that Suburbans are made in 1 of 3 plants. Janesville, WI: Arlington, TX: or Silao, Mexico. I do not own one yet but am seriously considering a 2001 or 2002 1/2 ton and maybe even a 3/4 ton. I have seen no less that 30+ 2001 3/4 tons on the web and everyone is from Mexico.

    I have a neighbor with a 2001 3/4 ton purchased new and it has been back to the dealer 13 times with 33k miles on it. He has had LOTS of little issues: window motor, autoride sensor, didn't start...... I have also read of oil consumption issues with the 8.1L engine and vibration with the Allison transmission.

    I also have a another neighbor with a 2001 1/2 ton LT from the Janesville plant. He has 44k miles and has NOT had "one" issue. He doesn't even do maintanance.

    I am not trying to start a debate........just looking for some good first hand experience from owners who can comment on their Suburban. Can anyone shed some first hand experience on any differences in quality or reliability between these production facilities if you own one? If your truck's VIN# starts with a "1" it is American and on your driver door there will be a sticker of either the state of Wisconsin or Texas differentiating the two plants. If your VIN# starts with "3" it is Mexican.
  • smwatson95smwatson95 Member Posts: 3
    first timer here - be gentle! i am looking at buying a suburban or denali xl with second row captains chairs and third row seat options. currently i drive a venture mini-van, and it's getting time to look for a newer vehicle. i'm expecting # 4, so i'm looking for something with lots of room. these have tons of room behind the third row! anyway, i was wondering if anyone could give me some information on what they're like to drive, how they handle, and what kind of gas mileage i can expect. i do a lot of highway driving, and quite a few gravel roads, too. this will be the family vehicle, so any suggestions on putting a tv vcr/dvd in there would be most welcome. thanks for any information you can give me.
    sandra
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Welcome to the forum; I'm a relative newbie in here too, but I'll try to address your issues as best I can...especially since I just recently bought an '04 Denali XL!

    As far as Suburban vs. Denali XL--think of the Denali as a small step below the Escalade but a bit above the 'burb (and Yukon XL--more or less the spitting image of the 'burb) as far as luxury refinements and minor body appearance are concerned. Given all this...if you're willing to spend the extra $5K or so that the DXL costs vs. the 'burb, then by all means go for the DXL.

    The primary differences between the 'burb/Yukon XL and the DXL can be summed up like so--some of the stuff that can only be added as factory-installed options on the 'burb come standard on the DXL (Autoride and Stabilitrak/AWD are standard on the DXL, but add-ons on the 'burb/YXL); also, DXL has the 6-liter engine, whereas the 1500 'burb/YXL doesn't offer it even as an option. There are some cosmetic differences between the two but that's your call if you wish to consider it as a purchasing factor.

    As far as the ride--you can't go wrong with the Stabilitrak/Autoride combo, especially in the conditions you describe.

    2nd-row captain's chairs are a $490 MSRP option but nice since they are heated (seats only--front seats have warmers in both seat and seatback); you may want to consider the rear-seat DVD entertainment option, although if you need the TV/VCR capability you'll need to do that aftermarket.

    For many people, the 'burb/YXL is the better buy since just about almost everything (notwithstanding exterior/interior cosmetic differences) that comes standard/optional on the DXL can also be had on the 'burb/YXL except (at least for now) the navigation system; OTOH--if you want to impress fellow GM full-size (and/or other) SUV owners as to which one is the best, period, but can't afford an Escalade...the DXL is the way to go.

    FWIW--I currently own an '03 Yukon XL; although it does the job, I regret not going all out (short of getting an Escalade--I'm not that rich) and getting the Denali XL last year. With the SUV tax break at my disposal, I was able to make up for my previous lack of judgment and bought an '04 DXL--black exterior/gray interior, with every available factory-installed option (2nd-row captain's chairs, moonroof, rear-seat DVD, navigation) except for the engine block heater (I don't need it where I live).

    HTH in whatever purchase decision you make; if it were up to me, I'd go for the Denali XL! ;)
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    I forgot to mention about the gas mileage--with the larger engine in the DXL (6.0l vs. 5.3l in the 'burb/YXL), fuel economy will probably suffer a bit--how much is more or less dependent on how heavy your foot is. EPA on the DXL is rated at 13/17, and 14/18 on the 'burb; I average around 16 overall (majority of it highway driving) on the Yukon XL--can't say about the DXL since I haven't driven it that much yet.
  • kiilewkiilew Member Posts: 17
    Those Fox floor mats look awesome! All I have ever wanted is a floor mat that completely covers the door sill plate-to-carpet edge area, and I see from your attached link that those Fox mats do just that.

    I wonder if the Fox mats are available for the rear cargo area, too. I didn't notice any mention of that in that web site's pricing lists.

    I also wonder how well they work with the Suburban's sliding second seat mechanism (alluding to my earlier note regarding my Catch All's). Or will I still need to do something similar to lobsenza's innovative sheet metal fix for that issue!
  • smwatson95smwatson95 Member Posts: 3
    thanks so much for the information - i really appreciate it.

    sandra
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    *************************************************

    I have had two Subs, one 1500 and one 2500 that both came from Mexico. They are just as good as the ones built in US. Really would not give it a second thought.
    Mine does have 'piston slap' when cold. I can not blame it on Mexico because the engines are assembled in NY.

    *************************************************
  • watchdog3watchdog3 Member Posts: 29
    I am still looking at used low mileage 2001 Burbs. I like the idea of owning 3/4 Ton due to its heavy duty attributes. My wife and I drove both the Z71 and C2500 4X4 versions. Definite "FEEL" difference. The C2500 is 1400lbs heavier and it feels it. The Z looks sportier but feels softer.

    Please comment on ease of driving a C2500 4X4 with the 8100 engine for daily driving in the city if you have one. I know mileage is about 10mpg vs. maybe 14mpg for the C1500 with the 5.3. For us it equates to about $400 more per year to drive the C2500. No biggy.
  • lakleinlaklein Member Posts: 8
    I've been feeling a banging sensation that feels as if something is loose telegraphing into the steering wheel mostly when making a right turn (like on an enter or exit ramp). Anyone have any idea what it might be? Thanks. 2003 suburban LS
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    I have found that auto recycle centers are a good place to start.
  • dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Wife's '01 K2500HD has had zero problems (100K mileage warranty on the cold engine knock)
  • aa555zzaa555zz Member Posts: 55
    My vehicle is a 2002 Tahoe. My second row seat does not slide forward. I do not know how the Fox floor mats will work with the Suburban's sliding second row seats. Sorry.

    I do not think that Fox makes a floor mat for the rear cargo area. However, there are several other companies that do make a mat for the rear area. This website has a pretty good selection of mats. http://www.cabelas.com
  • aa555zzaa555zz Member Posts: 55
    My 2002 Tahoe was assembled at the Janesville plant and it has had its share of problems:

    *Front inner axle seal replaced - Leaking oil.
    *Wiper/turn signal switch replaced - Wiper delay not working correctly.
    *Oxygen sensor replaced - Failed
    *Fuel tank module replaced - Leaking gasoline.
    *Rear axle shaft seal replaced - Leaking oil.
    *Outside rear view mirror replaced. Heating element failed.

    I do not think that the failure of these parts had anything to do with where my vehicle was assembled.

    The parts that failed were parts of components that were built elsewhere and placed on the vehicle at the assembly plant.

    The parts would have failed regardless of which assembly plant used the components. Unfortunately, for me, they were shipped to Janesville and used on my vehicle.
  • jenvwjenvw Member Posts: 4
    I am wondering if there is any aftermarket option for adding shoulder belts to the middle seats of the back 2 rows in the Suburban. We use 3 of the 4 shoulder belts for our kids and would like to carpool to school next year, but are limited to only one other child due to lack of enough shoulder belts. I just don't feel comfortable driving my own, or others kids with only a lap belt. does anyone know if this is something that can be done. I called my local Chevy dealership and they were clueless.
  • kiilewkiilew Member Posts: 17
    Thank you for your response! Actually I called Fox Enterprises a few days ago and actually spoke to Jeff Fox who owns the company. You are correct that he does not manufacture mats for the either the cargo area or the 3rd seat floor space. Instead, he recommends Weather Tech pieces for those areas; he apparently has a close relationship with that company.

    As far as accommodating the Suburban sliding second row seat, he will have to cut an area out of the rear passenger floor mat lip to allow the sliding mechanism to clear it. However, this is standard operating procedure apparently, so he wasn't phased a bit by my request! At any rate, he was very responsive and helpful.

    Anyway, I have ordered a complete set for the '00 Suburban, and look forward to trying them out! If I like them well enough, I might order another set for my '02 Tahoe as well!
  • fred127fred127 Member Posts: 1
    Three out of four power window motors failed and had to be replaced by my local dealership. GM agreed to pick up 1/2 the cost. My cost was about $250. Has any one else had a similar problem. I understand that the motor design has been changed for later models..FHS
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    My 2002 c2500 has a clunking sound when turning at low speed over bumps. This may be addressed by a Technical Service Bulletin that describes servicing the 'intermediate shaft on the steering column'. I've been told that GM has a 'kit' to remedy the problem. I have the text of the TSB if you need it.
  • lakleinlaklein Member Posts: 8
    It would be geatly appreciated if you could help me with locating the TSB pertaining to the steering column. Thank you very much. 2003 suburban LS
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    I would love an answer to this also. I looked at retrofitting the seat back from the 03 and it was cost prohibitive...
  • tbone379tbone379 Member Posts: 3
    Got a problem with my 4x4. It does not seem to engage when I shift into 4x4. It is a model that has the shift lever on the floor, not the new push button variety. The light on floor shift console will not illuminate and the 4x4 does not seem to engage at all when it is manually shifted. I checked the linkage at transfer case and found all levers to have no play. I also checked the 4x4 fuse and it was ok as well. Could this problem be associated with the shift actuator located on the transfer case, or is there something else that could cause the unit to fail?? The 4x4 has never made any crazy noises since I have owned the truck. The 4x4 just quit working all of the sudden with no prior warning. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks tbone
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    here is the text of the TSB for lubricating the Intermediate Steering Column. The TSB number got lost somehow. Local Chevy/GMC shop should be able to find it.

    **************************************************
    Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assembly)
    2002-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

    2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade ESV

    1999-2004 Chevrolet Silverado

    2000-2004 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe

    2002-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche

    1999-2004 GMC Sierra

    2000-2004 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL

    2003-2004 HUMMER H2

    With Recirculating Ball-Type Steering

    This bulletin is being revised to add additional procedures and time for vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals and to add additional models and years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003B (Section 02 -- Steering).

    Condition
    Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

    Correction

    Important
    DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns:

    26085548
    26049343
    26083324
    26088325
    15772436
    26078079

    Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below.

    Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position.
    Install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
    For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.
    Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
    Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
    Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so that the intermediate shaft can be removed.

    From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.

    From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
    From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column shaft.
    From under the hood, slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
    From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

    Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
    Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.

    Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.

    Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.

    Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
    Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.

    Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
    Repeat steps 11-14 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
    Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.

    Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.

    Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.

    Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
    Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
    Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
    Install the upper bolt and nut. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m(35 lb ft).

    Install the lower bolt and nut. Tighten
    Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m(37 lb ft).

    For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, do the following steps.
    Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
    Install the two retaining nuts. Tighten
    Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).

    Reposition the carpet back into place.
    Parts Information
    Part Number
    Description
    Qty

    26098419
    Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
    1

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
  • glsableglsable Member Posts: 77
    Hawk248:
    I agree with aa555zzz. Stabilitrak might not have made a difference. If it is really really slippery stuff nothing would help - other than attitude control thrusters! But there is a chance the spin could have been prevented, depending on how slippery it was.

    I disagree that running in 4WD-HI wouldn't have helped. In 2WD, even small movements of the accelerator pedal can send the back end out, but in 4WD-HI (unlike AUTO-4WD) the torque is continously balanced between the front and back axles and reduces this tendency.

    Around here in Virginia we get lots of black ice and compressed snow that is as slippery as anything anywhere. Studded tires are about the only solution!

    So far, we are surviving just fine in the snow with the stock Firestone Wilderness LEs, even though they have a street-tire tread. But I haven't been out in more than 6 inches of snow yet!

    I have noticed that 4WD-HI is noticeably better than AUTO-4WD in the snow.
    glsable
  • glsableglsable Member Posts: 77
    tdoh:
    Are you saying that you can get heated seats in the middle row buckets on the Denali? They are not available on the Suburban.
    glsable
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Yes--at least on the '04 Denalis (and I assume the last few previous model year Denalis, too), the second-row captain's chairs are heated...albeit just the seat bottoms--seatbacks aren't heated like the driver and front passenger bucket seats.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Sorry if this has been addressed previously--I don't know about the other '04 GM full-sized SUV models, but GM in their infinite wisdom decided to remove the glovebox light on the '04 Denali/DXL. The following question is more or less rhetorical, but why the heck did GM do this?

    And on a related note--the idiot light next to the headlamp switch that indicates whether or not the auto-headlight-on/DRL is enabled apparently isn't offered on the '04 Denali/DXL, either...is this also true on the rest of GM's '04 full-sized SUV line?
  • sgj55sgj55 Member Posts: 34
    Anyone know a good lawyer to sue GM for not fixing my Yukon? Better business is a farce! I listed 17 things wrong & they sent over their own mechanic to look at my truck & he could not find ONE thing wrong! BULL!!! GM is not concerned with it's unsuspecting customers.
     
    If you have a problem with your engine knocking call GM & complain & insist on an extended warranty. Also, as worthless as it is, file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. Auto manufacturers are rated on how many complaints they receive. The more we complain the more pressure we put on them to build better cars & fix those that are already sold.

    If something seems like a safety concern file a complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, that's how recalls get started.
  • lakleinlaklein Member Posts: 8
    terryasullivan, I thank you very much for your help. laklein 2003 suburban ls
  • pconnorpconnor Member Posts: 1
    I'm waffling like crazy here and need to make a decision. I'm looking at either getting a Denali XL or a 2500 w/ Quadrasteer.

    The only reason I would get the 2500 is because of quadrasteer. I drove one and was very impressed by the advantage - it seems like the type of thing you would appreciate every day. I also tow a boat and figure it would help there.

    Though, I'm not thrilled by the stiffer feel of the 2500. At the price I'm looking at, I could get a Denali XL w/ bigger engine & less weight and more luxury.

    Has anyone else had to weigh this decision? I'd appreciate your feedback.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    The 2500 should have the same Engine as the Denali or a larger one. The ratios in the transmission are different so the power could feel different. One option is a different axle ratio or the 8.1 engine to give the 2500 more power. Autoride on the 2500 might improve the ride somewhat. In addition, swapping the tires to Denali type tires could help as well (this will reduce the load carrying capacity).

    I have never drive quadrasteer. How much is the option now? I think GM missed the boat not putting it on the 1500 series SUVs. But the reason is that the design has to be different for a coil spring rear end than it does for a leaf spring rear end. So, it is available on vehicles with leaf rear springs, but not coil rear springs.
  • highenderhighender Member Posts: 1,358
    do you know how they measure cargo capacity in Suburban ? they say it has 132 cu ft. I noticed that the minivans have a reported 144 to 158 cu ft with the 2nd and 3rd row folded up. is my suburban smaller than the minivans, or is the lower figure just the result of measuring without removing the 3rd row ???, or without removing the 2nd row?// Help appreciated. I have a 1999 Suburban, and I still think it has more cargo capacity than a Toyota Sienna or Previa, or any other minivan.....help..
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Here is my guess on cargo capicties.
    Minivans do have more room. Why? They have smaller gas tanks, no rear-wheel drive and much less ground clearance. This allows for a much lower floor. I'll guess well over a foot lower.
    I currently own a Tahoe and traded a Grand Voyager for it. When I removed the third row the van had tons of space! So given nearly same width and length, but more height the van wins.

    Note the seating in the vans can be poor! many vans only can have 2 people in the second row. (new toyota can have 3) then you must have the 3rd row seat in/up. Then your Burban and even my Tahoe win. I got three kids....

    --jay
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