Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Mazda5 Brake Questions

13

Comments

  • larry8061larry8061 Posts: 37
    The $8.00 "universal" tool From your local parts store for turning the rear pistons back into the caliper will not fit the Mazda 5 pistons - save the $8.00.

    Larry
  • we've had a shimmy feel when we apply brakes for a longtime, probably since 26,000 miles. finally took to local dealer where we bought car in '08(car is an '08) at 33,000 miles, needed front brake job, and resurface rotors.

    obviously unhappy nothing was covered. We don't drive like teenagers, just a 40something couple. I'm thinking these rotors are just super thin?

    I guess it wouldn't hurt to call Mazda, at least let them know their brakes stink. Hey wait a minute. isn't this the same vehicle as the Mazda3 in a lot of aspects? wouldn't the 3 have good rotors, because you expect people to drive like a teenager with the 3?

    I think I will call Mazda and ask them what the setup is on the 3, and see if the brakes on the 3 last longer or not.

    Anybody have a clue as to what is causing this? What should I do if I need another front brake job in another 30,000? I've owned many vehicles, and about the earliest I've ever had to do a brake job was 50k, maybe 60k.
  • I am SHOCKED that the rotors had enough metal to be turned. Yes, the brakes SUCK. I did all 4 rotors and the pads at 33,000. As I said earlier, upgraded ALL of it and I am VERY happy. The rear OEM rotors aren't even vented.

    I would expect pedal pulse any time with turned front rotors.

    Good luck

    Larry
  • grwsjgrwsj Posts: 1
    I replaced the fronts about 10k miles ago. Rears were fine. They still have more than 1/8 inch. The rotors look normal (I think... no scoring, just wear).

    The right rear only is making a grinding noise when braking, and at low speeds (coasting from a stop) even with no brakes applied. I took the wheel off and I can hear it when turning it by hand. The left wheel is dead quiet. Since the pads look fine, what else could it be?
  • The rear pistons are screw type, and can't be pushed in. They can be retracted with a Mazda tool, but my local mechanic doesn't bother - he just inserts the tips of a needlenose and starts turning! He has the tool but doesn't bother with it. So this should make life a lot simpler for all of us! He also says you don't have to bleed the brakes during retraction. I did have a little pad drag and cold squeaking with the new pads but he says this is normal and will go away. There is no separate adjustment of the handbrake, according to him.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,599
    Yes. That is all correct.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • I have exactly the same problem. I did think, however, that that right rear rotor was badly scored, but I am not an expert. What did you finally do about it?
    Matt Cotton
    Parsippany, NJ
  • I got sick and tired of replacing front rotors because of warpage. I talked to someone in my area with a M5 and he sent me to a local garage that races Mazdas and does general repairs. They recommended Raybestos rotors and pads (I may even do the back with the same brand eventually) and have had no warpage or scoring, plus I like the feel of the brakes better now also.

    They had no suggestion about the squeal that comes from the rear when backing up in damp weather but maybe the new rotors/pads will fix that too when the existing ones get replaced.

    Just my 5 cents worth (inflation ya know)
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    I have a slight pulse in the steering wheel when braking light at 65MPh, but no pulsing in the pedal.
    At slow speeds the slowing down to a stop is not even though. It does feel like a like warped rotor (20k) but the high speed braking suggests a ball joint?
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 158
    I tried the above by intuition today, but didn't succeed. I turned the piston with needlenose pliers dozens of turns, but I don't think I made any progress getting it retracted at all. Any further clues? I've got it put back together now with the old worn pads -- luckily only 2/3rds or so it turns out -- so at least I've got time to educate myself
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 158
    I figured it all out and can now answer my own questions. Yes, the above comment about the cheap little universal caliper retraction tool not fitting MZ5 applied to my 2006 also. I needed a two-peg one, with the pegs as close together and skinny as the tool's side that had 4 pegs. The solution turned out to be the $60 caliper tool kit from the local O'Reillys which is fully refundable before 48 hrs. This kit contains a serious threaded rod 6" long which can press things apart as forcefully as a big C-clamp can push things together, with the business end pegged like the cheap universal tool, and turned by the threaded rod. This tool worked like a charm in less than a minute, and did not require breaking open the brake fluid line to relieve any pressure. I had it back to the parts store and my money back less than an hour later.
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    hello boys and girls,
    My 2010 @ 24k is pulsing really badly when braking at high speeds (the problem grew slowly) and stops choppy, as if the brake disk has a thinner and a thicker part, or square wheels. I followed the advise on this forum and bought two Reybestos advanced. I've done brakes before, but only twice rotors.
    I took the wheel off just to see what's in there and saw that the disk is not held by a screw, but it is also not moving at all.
    How do you take this thing off? Hammer? I hope not... Some have a screw whole to bolt in and push the disk out, but I don't remember seeing one....
  • Yep!! I found heating it up with a torch and then giving it a good whack did the trick. Yes, it is a bit un-nerving. Welcome to the world of Mazda!

    Good luck!

    Larry
  • vicenacvicenac Posts: 229
    edited August 2011
    Thanks! A light double tap set them loose.
    Vibration is fixed, braking is better. The more disconcerting find was that I saw one of the tires being really worn on the inside only - camber issue or some alignment - !@#$%^&
    I have never seen a car drive nicely straight after alignment. I just don't know of a good place to do this. I remember a Honda Accord (87) drove much better after I re-did the alignment myself with a measuring tape LOL.
    ehhh
  • Glad to hear it worked!

    Just shocking that a Mazda 5 would have a Camber issue! (NOT!!)

    I haven't done it in a few years but, 15 years ago and before the amateur sports car crowd did all of their own alignments with tape measures and strings. It IS doable - good luck!

    Larry
  • Hi! We just bought a 2008 Mazda 5. Of course, we have the braking noise... It's been going on for a month, so we brought the car to the garage and they replaced the front pads (even though we thought the noise was coming from the back, but then again...). That was two days ago, and we still have braking noise...

    But here's one thing I've notice: most of the time (but not always), it is almost sure that if we break while going uphill, the brakes wil make some noise. But if we brake while going downhill or on flat, it probably won't make any noise, IF we didn't previously brake while going uphill... Do you have any suggestion about what's going on?!

    Thx!!
  • sim6sim6 Posts: 2
    edited November 2011
    Hi. I've recently acquired a Mazda 5 auto, this after having two of the Premacy models, my last one I'd have for many, many years, and just recently on reversing only I noticed this awful squealing!! This shocked me as I've only had the vehicle a few months, and on making enquries I was told it was caused by condensation, and the noise is made worse because of the alloy wheels?
    To say I'm disappointed with the 5 model is an understatement, and as to why this problem does not appear to have been looked into by Mazda is unknown, if it has, it would be good in my opinion to let 5 owner's know what their thoughts are, dealership's just look at you when the subject is brought up, and that has left me so frustrated, and I should add that in all my motoring years, I've never experienced squealing to the extent that my Mazda 5 has.
    I'm so pleased a friend told me about this website.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 17,599
    First question: is it only the first time you back up after the car has been sitting? that is the only time you should/would have any noise (even if you went straight ahead, the first time you apply the brakes for the day will usually result in some sort of noise).

    Second: why let such a little thing as some brake noise ruin the entire car ownership experience for you? if you let such a minor thing like this bother you this much, you are in for a lifetime of horrible disappointment.

    And, finally, my solution is that you replace the pads with a superior aftermarket set of pads. Odds are, if they are squealing that much, they are probably glazed. You could have the pads removed, scuffed up, and reinstalled, but there is little point to going through that trouble when replacements are so inexpensive compared to the labor involved.

    '13 Stang GT; '15 Fit; '98 Volvo S70; '14 Town&Country

  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 158
    Is it possible this is your first car with disc brakes in the rear as well as the front? The other commenter mentioning "first thing on driving" may be getting at the tendency of brake discs to get rust spots while standing parked, if the wheels get splashed with water. This corrosion is completely harmless but does make some scraping noises during the first brake application after leaving your parking spot. If the above is not the case with your Mazda, if it is brand new I think you have something you should have your dealer service department inspect. If your car was bought used, you may be experiencing the effects of a poor and/or wrongly-done brake job, and an inspection is all the more important.
  • sim6sim6 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply to my first message on this site. Today there was a very early start with lots of condensation about, and on reversing 'early morning' there was the squeal back again!
    I will go back to the dealership and talk to them again, the vehicle is not new so will ask also for a further check to be made.
    I must add that I've been driving automatics for some time, but the dual gearbox on this 5 is something different and I have got used to it quite quickly, only one grump and that is, if one uses the gears manually whilst driving, dont foget to swtch back to auto before you stop, otherwise when the car pulls away it will not automatically move up from bottom gear!!
  • I did not see any further issues listed other then the 2 about the brake pedal fading or what felt like the lack or resistance, has anyone on here had this issue and had it diagnosed by a Mazda Dealer that actually fixed this issue? My wife had it happen today and one other time about a month ago, very intermittant, the front Brake pads are New Mazda OEM parts installed last month, and the rears are original still good shape all 4 rotors have been replaced in the last year, due to warpage and vibration, and the fluid is full with no signs of any hydraulic leaks at any wheel the master cylinder the ABS Unit or anywhere on the lines or fittings, but it feels like either the primary or secondary piston in the master cylinder is bypassing the seal intermittantly causin g the brake fade whereby the pedal feels soft and if you place the vehicle in park shut the car off, and repeatedly pump the pedal to deplete all vacuum, the pedal gets high and hard, and then the car stops fine and the pedal feels great, has ANYONE had this happen?? If so, what if anything have you had done to address or repair this issue? Any help would be much appreciated, thank you.
  • staypuftstaypuft Posts: 6
    Brake pulsation here as well, but it is so slight that I just plan to live with it until the pads wear down. Going to replace with aftermarket brakes when the time comes.
  • I have a 2010 Mazda 5 with 37000 miles. I have had to replace the ABS Control Unit twice now. The first time it was under warrantee, and this time it should be covered by my extended warrantee. It is a safety issue, besides the deductible I have to pay this time around, as the car is unsafe to drive when the fluid is leaking out of the unit. Has anyone else had this issue? It worries me that I have had this problem with 2 units now-- what is to keep it from happening again? I am thinking of complaining to Mazda but not sure how to contact them.
  • Check out this link to see a write up on how to replace your brakes on your mazda 5!

    http://freecarsupport.com/diy-write-ups/2012/10/6/how-to-replace-brakes-on-a-201- 0-mazda-5
  • buhddybuhddy Posts: 1
    I just used needlenose pliers to fit into the holes. I did rent the universal kit from ORielly's, but they didn't have an attachment for the Mazda. The needle nose trick works great.
    Just make sure you are turning it the right way. (i think clockwise, and I THINK it's clockwise on both left and right rear pistons.)
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 158
    I take it you're talking about getting the rear caliper pistons to retract far enough in, that the thick new brake pads will fit, right? I've tried needle-nose pliers on my MZ5 and found it quite difficult. The universal kit from my O'Reilly's does work -- without sticking in any of the adaptor dealies at all -- the basic tool had the right two prongs in it and would turn the piston like a champ
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Mine has done this a couple of times. The first time I had my complete brake system flushed and therefore bled which fixed the issue for a month. Now I just got it bled again because the pedal again went to the floor before grabbing. This time I had it looked at Romero Mazda but they didnt find anything wrong with the system and no leaks at all. Since mine is MT I had them bleed the system again and also bledd the hydraulics on the clutch system since both systems share the same brake fluid reservoir. Pedal feels good and normal again. We will see how it fares in the coming weeks or days. It is as if the system gets air in the system from somewhere. Did you figure this issue out? I am suspecting bad master cylinder but I don't want to start throwing money at it blindly...although I may have to... :(
  • luna04luna04 Posts: 1

    I bought my 2013 Mazda5 almost a year ago. I took it for an oil change at the dealer the other day and was told there was an oil leak and my front break pads needed to be replaced. I only have 16,000 miles on my car!!! I have owned 4 cars in my life and never had I needed to replace the brake pads so early on. I also drive a Chevy Tahoe and I don't remember the last time I had to replace the brakes. The service guy said it's probably the way I drive but I beg to differ. I've noticed since I first started driving the car that it takes quite a while to come to a complete stop. I just thought this was the way it was supposed to be since all cars are different. I've grown accustomed to how the car works now and just got used to it. But now that I just got my car back from getting new brake pads I am noticing that it still takes awhile for my car to come to a complete stop. On top of that I feel a slight grinding as I brake. I am a first time Mazda owner so I was wondering if anyone has had the same issue. Thanks for your help! :)

  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 5,958

    If you're seeing symptoms after the brake pads were changed, I'd go right back to the dealer and have them take a ride with you to demonstrate what it is you're seeing.

    MODERATOR
    Need help navigating? pf_flyer@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • vaniajovaniajo Posts: 2

    Hi, I'm a new Mazda5 owner - just bought a used 2012 from a Mazda dealer with 36000 miles about a week ago. Today, just as I was getting off the freeway, but as I was travelling at a good clip still, the car made a loud, high pitched sound (seemed to make a few times during the week when braking - but this time louder and longer, lasted for maybe 30 secs) and then went away... I was perplexed, but then I stopped at a stop light and white smoke started wafting from the rear passenger side back wheel. And then I opened the window and there was a very intense burning smell - kind of plastic-y but not totally. It eventually stopped smoking as I took off. I got home, called the dealer, brought it in and this is what they said:

    • New brake pads, so not that.
    • All mazda brakes squeak, so don't worry.
    • Could have been the emergency brake - but it wasn't that.
    • They could smell the smell, but could find nothing wrong.

    Anyone have any ideas?

Sign In or Register to comment.