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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

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Comments

  • sub9904sub9904 Member Posts: 72
    It bothers me too. The roof is very flimsy imo. However, I've read that Nissan is aware of the problem and is going to fix it. Assuming it does get fixed I'd rather have that as an issue vs the trannie and engine and other parts that GM seems to have.
    I read another board exclusive for Suburban owners. You'd be amazed at all the reoccuring problems that pop up amongst the fellow posters. I've already mentioned the IM leak. Most have replaced the fuel pump at 100k miles. Most have gone through at least one A/C compressor. Trannies. You'd think you could get more than 100k miles before having to go through all of that. Knock on wood for my engine and trannie but been there done that on the rest. All that and I'd still consider buying another burb. Not many alternatives though.
  • highenderhighender Member Posts: 1,358
    yes, I have a 1500. I did notice some smell, like burnt oil or transmission , on the way up a very steep, very long, montain road this past weekend. Do you think I should have a mechanic check it, or just check the trans fluid dip stick ?? I had a new engine placed in it, so I only have 10,000 miles on the engine, 59,000 on the rest . Do you think IM leaks will occur now ?

    thanks for your info...
  • sub9904sub9904 Member Posts: 72
    I wouldn't even bother checking the level. Just go get the fluid completely flushed with new filter too.
    Surprised you already have a new engine with such low miles. Was it a new crate engine? You might not have any problem with it. I wouldn't worry about it at this point since your engine is so new.
    If you are really worried there is a co. called Blackstone Labs www.blackstone-labs.com They can do an oil analysis and tell you if there are any problems with coolant etc. They caught my last leak very early. Cost 20 bucks and is well worth it imo.
  • highenderhighender Member Posts: 1,358
    yes....well mine has a supercharger on it...and I tried to add synthetic oil into the engine at about 40,000 mile marker,,...then after a few months,I noticed the coolant level going down, so I added more and just kept on driving, then added more....and so on for about a week....(stupid me) when I finally brought it in, I had already damaged the bearings.....so paid $4000 and change to have a new one installed. It has regular organic oil now....I'm a little leary of changing to synthetic....what do you think ?

    what is a new crate engine ? Yes, they did take out the whole thing and installed a whole new one....if thats what you mean.. thanks
  • sub9904sub9904 Member Posts: 72
    Sounds like you had an IM leak. The disappearing coolant was going into your engine oil. It will damage the bearings. The Blackstone analysis would show both bearing wear and coolant in the oil.

    Yup you have a crate engine. So there is a very good chance that you won't have the IM leak again. Where did you get the engine from? Even if GM I believe they are no longer using the same gaskets. That's why I asked my original question for which no one seems to have any input.

    As for dino oil (organic) I think you are fine using that. I've got over 134k miles and it's all I ever used. I burn less than a quart per 3k miles of normal driving. If on a long road trip I'll burn more. Just make sure you change it regularly. You could also use synthetic too. I've read that it's not good to start using if you have an older engine. It is so fine that you can actually start leaking oil. But personally I'd just stick with what you are using.

    I am leaning more and more towards the Armada. Just hoping my Sub can last until fall w/out having to throw in another couple of grand. But I've already put 1600 into it since Oct. Funny thing I read on another board that the owner of a sub has been spending about 2k/year for repairs for the last 3. That's not counting maintenance either.
  • woody555woody555 Member Posts: 9
    Just took delivery on a 2004 GMC Yukon XL 3/4 ton with wheel flares and factory running boards. Dealer says GM does not make molded mud guards for this truck. Does anyone know of a vendor that makes molded flaps for this truck??
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Fitzmall is adverstising all of their regular Yukons and Denalis with at a price that equates to almost exaclty $10k off. These are all brand new 2004's.

    Any idea of what the actual break down of rebates and dealer discounts are that allow them to do this? I'm just interested because they're not anywhere near me and I might be interested in a new '04 XL if I can figure out how to get a local dealer to come down $10k!
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    might want to try their online sales site at http://www.fitzmall.com

    do a Search on the make then type of vehicle you are looking at... they have posted selling prices etc..

    has anyone on here bought a vehicle from them .. reliable..know anything about them ???
  • highenderhighender Member Posts: 1,358
    I got the engine from my mechanic, who ordered it from GM, I think. So if they are no longer making this gasket, then my engine should not have the IM leak, right ?

    Your diagnosis is right on the money....that is exactly what my mechanic said.... :-(

    I guess I could keep using dino oil...but some have suggested syn oil... But I am just afraid the cleansing properties of the syn oil will cause another gasket leak.

    the Armada , from what i hear, will be a great vehicle. good luck.

    and thanks for all your help... :-)
  • sub9904sub9904 Member Posts: 72
    I think you are ok with the new gaskets. Just make sure you monitor the fluids. I check mine ALL the time (few times a week). Only because mine is older.
    Still think you are safe going to synthetic since your new engine has such low miles but dino is fine too. Just don't use synthetic in the trannie or differential because of the miles on the sub. Oh and get the trannie fluid changed soon.
    Still not sure about the Armada. I really like the cargo space of a burb.
  • tkreytaktkreytak Member Posts: 5
    Hi I have read the article above, regarding where to purchase (gmpartsdirec.com) extra headphones for the Yukon XL Denali(04) DVD system.

    Does anyone know what the part # is?
  • sub9904sub9904 Member Posts: 72
    Read on the other thread you have a K&N. I'd get rid of it if I were you. I had one in mine. It screwed up the MSA by depositing oil from the air cleaner onto the filaments. It won't happen right away but it will or can. Makes you wonder what is going into the engine. Caused the burb to miss off and on for about 15 months before I got it fixed. Very intermittent. Drove me crazy. What made it worse was going through a dust storm outside of Reno and the ash from the fires combined with the Santa Ana winds. I had cleaned it back in March too so knew it was fairly clean. When the mechanic showed me it last month it was filthy. New MSA isn't cheap either. My mechanic cleaned mine up even though GM doesn't recommend it. Runs great now. Not to mention new air filter.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    I know all about the site and the listed prices--that's where I got the $10k off from! What I was asking was if anyone knew what rebates or other incentives there are out there, in addition to dealer discounts, that can allow them to cut such a big chunk off the price.
  • looramlooram Member Posts: 17
    Does anyone know when the Suburban is due for a redesign? Also, are there any pictures out there of the new redesigned Suburban?
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    All right, I'll ask. What is "the MSA". In my lingo that means "Maximum Size Aggregate". I know that not what you are talking about.
  • sub9904sub9904 Member Posts: 72
    Sorry a bit of a typo on my part. Its called the Mass Air Sensor and sits between your air cleaner and intake manifold. Think the mechanic said it runs about 250-300 bucks if I remember right. He just used some carb cleaner and a cardboard match stick to clean it. Rubbed the match stick against the filaments. Heck I could have done that! Q-tip would work just as well if not better imo.
    Anybody going to buy a new vehicle I'd strongly suggest using consumer reports pricing guide for 10 bucks. I got one on the suburban and was surprised to see that the dealer is getting over 1100 back from GM/vehicle on their holdbacks. As an example the dealer cost right now on a bare bones 1500 LS 2x4 is a shade over 29.1k Anything over that is profit. That includes the rebates.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Next year, the 2005 model, will just receive the typical cosmetic updates, like new colors and the in-dash Navigation System. For 2006, the redesigned models will be out. All the exterior sheet metal will be new except for the roof, meaning that it really doesn't look all that different. The front bumper is lower and the grille is considerably larger and taller, along with much bigger headlights. On the inside, it's all new and supposedly very stylish and high quality.

    I have some pics that will give you a good idea of what to expect, I'll try and get them up within an hour!
  • markamblermarkambler Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2004 2500 Chevy Suburban 8.1L 3:73. Just prior to this I ordered the same thing with the 6.0L engine. The 6.0L came in with the wrong interior color. They let me take it home for a few days hoping I would take it. I liked the ride and the feel of it compared to my 1988 2500 Chevy Sub 7.4 that I had put 400,000 miles on (two engines and 1 new tranny). I was not happy with the color of the 6.0L so they reordered for me.

    After reading many posts on this and other forums I noticed that I would not be able to tow much more that the 1500 series suburban unless I went with the 4:10 or the 8.1L engine. I decided to reorder with the 8.1 since the mileage penalty was not going to be that much and I could still get the 3:73 since it is my daily driver just like my good old 88 2500 7.4L Sub.

    Just got the new sub and it looks perfect, but it seems to ride just a little better than my old 88 2500 7.4L Sub. It seams rougher riding than the 6.0L did. I can really feel the road with the 8.1L. I am trying to figure out why. Would anybody know why I am experiencing a different and stiffer feel they are both 2500’s, I had autoride on both and (autoride is mandatory with the 8.1). I know it’s still a truck and will never ride like a car I just want to make sure that this thing is operating correctly such as the autoride. The following below are the only things I can think of please add your comments if you may know why.

    1. I have heard rumors of different axle design (Full Floating and heavier on 8.1L vs. Semi-Floating and lighter on the 6L) Can’t get a straight answer on this from GM or local dealers.

    2. I forgot to check the tire brand on the 6.0 but it did come out of the dealer under pressure at 40 psi. just like the 8.1. On the 8.1 I have the notorious Firestones. Some say these ride rougher than Michelins.

    3. I received the other truck two months ago when it was warmer. It has become very cold in the northeast and lots of potholes and buckled seams in the road that were not there 2 months ago.

    Just want to make sure that this suburban that I am going to keep for the next who knows how many years is right from the start.

    Thanks for any light you can shed on this mystery for me.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Okay, here's the link to the pics. They're at the end, after the C6 and Ford pics:

    http://community.webshots.com/album/106016140hpPGSI
  • highenderhighender Member Posts: 1,358
    yeah....I did not know what MSA was, but mass air flow sensor....yes.....

    Yes, I do have a K&N.....but want to keep it because of the increased air flow needed for the supercharger....but I will be careful with the cleaning and oiling of the airfilter.....I heard you only need to clean it every 50,000 miles or so, depending on usage and dirt levels. I just did the cleaning about 15,000 miles ago. so will wait a little ....

    but I did dirve it to Disneyland during the firestorm last year (october) and had to drive around to get to Las Vegas....they closed I-15 due to the fire....it was an inferno....had to go I-10 East, then I-95 north.....took me and the SUbbie another 7 hours.....so I guess the filter is severely clogged......maybe I will clean it after the superbowl....:-)

    I will also try to get the mechanic to clean the MAS filaments.....

    thanks again .....
  • grogman1grogman1 Member Posts: 76
    Husky makes a pretty good mud flap. I got mine mail order through Cabellas. Pretty easy to install and they fit well.
  • tbone379tbone379 Member Posts: 3
    Was wondering what everybody out there thinks about buying an extended warranty. Should I go through the dealership? They seem kinda high. Have also looked online and found a couple of pretty good ones there. Should I even think about getting one? I have an 02 yukon xl with 4 wheel drive. What does everybody think? Would I be OK without the extra protection? I am close to end of gm warranty and have not had any problems so far. If that makes any difference. Thanks for your advise in advance. tbone
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    The newer SUVs have an additional position on the headlight switch that my 2001 does not have. What is it for?
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    "Maybe the new bulb wiil help quick burn-outs."

    Yep, nothing like making it easier to smoke them tires on our GM SUVs...LOL! j/k...
  • dako_tiandako_tian Member Posts: 298
    WOW! Those must be some powerful light beams!?!

    But, if I remember my physics correctly (every action has an equal and opposite reaction), wouldn't those bulbs only help with burnouts in reverse?!? ;-)
  • lmc58lmc58 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to get at the license plate bulb on a 97 Suburban? The hitch gets in the way from behind, and I don't see another way to get in there to change the bulb!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    From the GM factory manual, for all 5 variants of the 97 Suburban:

    Removal procedure
    1. Remove the lens from the lamp assembly
    2. Remove the bulb

    Installation procedure
    1. Install the bulb
    2. Install the lens to the lamp assembly
    3. Install the wiring to the back of the lens assembly
  • jfaschingjfasching Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone else have this problem?? It seems GMC is very much aware of the engine knock, and is quietly buying some back after giving the owners a major run around. Go to www.pistonslap.com to read more about this problem. I am one of the owners that GMC is giving a major run around. First they were going to replace my engine with no guarantee that the new one would not knock also. I refused. Then they offered me the new engine with a 6 yr./100,000 mile warranty. I accepted. A week later GMC Customer service called me and said they had NO engine fix for my vehicle and would tear the whole engine apart and replace the pistons. I refused. I am now battling it out with them to buy back my vehicle. This is certainly not what I expected when I bought my Yukon XL. I paid $40,000.00 for a piece of junk. The sunroof also leaked, and am having the trim all around the vehicle replaced for the second time. I thought I was getting a quality product for my money, but no more GMC for me.
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Save your money. If your worried about the big bill that might happen somewhere down the road, set aside money each month in a repair fund. You'll earn interest on it and if you never need it, you still have your money. Most people do not see a return of their money when they buy a service contract. If you MUST buy one, go with a factory backed, top of the line contract. Be sure you know exactly what is not covered and what your deductible is. Read the contract carefully.
  • circutmanncircutmann Member Posts: 40
    While you did not say the year, engine size, or mileage of your vehicle, I am guessing that you have a 2000 or 2001, probably w/ a 5.3L. I also have a 01 YXL 5.3L that developed a severe CSK (cold start knock) at about 15,000 miles. It would last 1-3 minutes, then was completely silent until the next time it was totally cold (had to sit about 8 hours or more). It sounded like a diesel engine during that time, & was worse if the truck was in gear under a bit of load. There was no CSK if the engine sat for only a few hours.

    I took it to the dealer the night before, let it sit over night, & had the dealer's top service tech & service writer present when I started it the next day after work. They said it was the worse case they had seen/heard & got GMC involved, right away. The dealer 1st tried to remove any carbon from the combustion chamber at their own expense....no luck. GMC then offered a 6yr 100k warranty, that I declined. They then offered to totally rebuild the engine with different, tighter tolerance pistons, rods, & bearings. GMC said an engine replacement would be cheaper than the rebuild, but could develop the same problem, as the production engine is built for peak performance, fuel economy, & best emissions, but a small percentage have developed this problem.

    All the parts were ordered, the rebuild took a week, but they provided a rental truck, & the rebuild took place. The top service tech & I examined all the OEM parts afterward, but could not see any wear or witness marks from the CSK. The work was done perfectly, no paint scratches, no oil leaks, no oil burning, same gas mileage, & best of all.... NO CSK. The engine is still quiet after 18,000 more miles. I couldn't be more pleased w/ GMC & my dealer for the way they handled my CSK problem. The dealer & GMC gave me options & no hasle.

    While all dealers may not be created equal, I would not hesitate, if you have a good, trustworthy, competent dealer, that you have confidence in. Mine is excellent, I have boughten (5) vehicles from them, because they have earned my trust. It sounds like GMC is offering you what they offered me. The choice is yours. I still love 01 YXL. Good Luck in whatever you decide. Dave
  • jfaschingjfasching Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for your message. I am glad it worked out for you. Mine is a 2002. In my case, I do not have a lot of faith in my dealer. It was my first buy at this dealer and have not been happy with them from the time of purchase on. They offered me the 100,000 mile warranty also which I did accept until I read the stories in the newspapers about the GMC products with this problem. In that timeframe (5 months) my mileage went over 24,000 which is the cutoff for a buyback thru the BBB Autoline. I contacted the Lemon Law attorneys and was told I needed one more work order that shows GMC attempted to fix the vehicle. My dealer will not look at it again. I even offered to pay for it, they refused. I took it to another dealer and they heard the noise, but only gave me the bulletin that GMC published on the knock. They would not give me the work order. I am in their computer system and am sure no matter where I take it, they will not give me that work order. I am so frustrated and if I were a violent person, which I am not, I would drive the darn thing through the dealer's window.
  • circutmanncircutmann Member Posts: 40
    If I were you, I'd go back to your dealer & request that they give you the GMC zone rep's phone #, or call GMC directly, & try to set-up a face to face meeting with the rep., when he/she will be in town. I would also have your vehicle parked outside at the dealer overnight if possible, so that the CSK can be heard. You have every right to meet w/ the rep. in person.

    If the problem was reported & on record before the 24,000 mile limit, I don't see why that should limit your options. I sympathize w/ you, and wish you luck. My dealer is in upstate NY. Just curious, what area of the country are you & your dealer in? Dave
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    RE: Cold Start Knock

    One reason the dealer can push back is that the Helm's factory manual states SEVERAL times; noise at startup is NORMAL. I could fax a page if you like.

    I have a c2500 with the 8.1 engine. Sounds like a diesel every morning. This is the second engine as the first one lost a water hose and overheated. What's my point? As stated by others, even if you get a NEW engine, it is possible that it will have the same noises. I am out of warranty so, not much I can do. I plan on running it until it blows. If I still like the truck, I will rebuild it myself. I am a little upset that it makes noise, but I bought it used and I knew what I was getting into. Most knowledgeable sources say that the engine will not suffer any major damage from 'Cold Start Knock' or 'Piston Slap'.
  • lakleinlaklein Member Posts: 8
    I had the intermediate steering column lubed as per the TSB you located for me. I'ts been two weeks now, and so far all is well. No banging. Thanks again.laklein 2003 suburban
  • terryasullivanterryasullivan Member Posts: 24
    sounds good.
    I have to admit though, I have not done mine yet. I have lots of excuses.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    does anyone have any info what the new Rebates will be starting 3/2 on the Suburban... the current ones end 3/1.. just trying to see if anyone had any good info available..

    we have two '01 Suburbans on leases right now.. they have a current Pull Ahead program.. early turn in on leases.. that ends on 3/1... might want to turn one back in for a new one..

    decisions.. decisions..

    any info appreciated..
  • aureachaseaureachase Member Posts: 5
    I have just purchased a 2004 Z71 Suburban loaded and am very pleased. After owning several suv's that were plagued with problems, (Mercedes ML 430 and 2003 Lexus GX 470)I decided to see if GM can make an suv that spends more time on the road than in the shop for warranty work. I really was pleasantly surprised with ride quality and ease of steering. I do agree the interior has quite a bit of plastic, but the gadgets are nice quality. Overall, this has been a pleasant purchasing experience and I am pleased with the Suburban.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    having two '01 4wd Suburbans currently.. was looking at the new ones..

    haven't paid too much attention to Stabilitrak option.. until now.. they have their Safe and Secure Package with $1K discount so you net it at $100 list that includes Stabilitrak..

    what I'd like to know before heading down to the dealer.. since we have the Autotrak 4wd system now in the '01 subn's.. what does Stabilitrak do.. does it eliminate the 4 button 4wd options on Autotrak...or is it just a fancier high-dollar name for Locking rear end a/k/a Posi-rear/PosiTraction... or am I missing something here... I like what we have.. don't want to go to AWD like the Denalis, etc..

    any help/info much appreciated.. :)
  • lobsenzalobsenza Member Posts: 619
    is awesome. I ran a vehicle with a stability control system on a closed course with cones. The first run was with the stability control on and the second run was with it off. I was supposed to go the same speed the second run as the first. I couldn't go as fast on the second run ant I took 4 cones out. Stability control systems help prevent the vehicle from going out of control when the vehicle is being steered in one direction yet it is going in another. It applies the appropriate brake to bring the vehicle back into control. The amazing thing is that you do not appreciate how much it is doing for you until you go back to back runs through the same course, once with it on and once with it off.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    being that it was Sunday I drove down to the local Chevy lot.. finally found a Subn with Stabilitrak.. obviously they were closed..yippee..

    I looked inside the Subn.. I noticed that instead of 4 buttons for the 4wd system.. there were three with the Stabilitrak.. the top two had 'squiglees'/skid marks on them.. the third was '4 with an arrow'.. can anyone decipher what they are for.. what button is regular 2wd that you normally drive in.. and what type of 4wd is it.. 4wd Hi or 4wd Lo..????
  • yukonxlxpert1yukonxlxpert1 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2003 Suburban with Stabilitrak it really is great.I did own a 2000 Yukon XL with the autotrac system and there is no comparision.the 3 buttons are: Top (with skid marks) stability system off, middle(default) stability on, bottom is 4 Lo , there is No 2 wheel drive setting it is always 4WD.We didn't have so much snow here in Jersey , but you can't skid with this system.It also saved me once on an off ramp when I was going too fast in the rain.when I got mine, I had to order it from scratch as no dealerships had the Stabilitrak Suburbans in stock, up here in the Northeast.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    thanx for deciphering all those buttons for me...

    sounds to me like Stabilitrak is AWD in default mode then if no 2wd mode is available unless it's truly 4wd high which I doubt..... if that's the case I'd rather have my old 4 button system.. I use my truck on trips to the Outer Banks to surf fish on the beach ...

    most of the ones with Stabilitrak that I've seen have that Safe and Secure package with the $1K discount.. it nets the package out at $100 rather than $1100...

    again, thanx for the info
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Just to clarify, the drive system in the 3-button Stabilitrak setup you describe is technically "full-time 4WD", as opposed to the "AWD" offered on the Denali and Escalade--I made the assumption that it was AWD based on what was stated in the owner's manual (I own an '03 YXL w/ Stabilitrak) but someone pointed out that it's technically full-time 4WD.

    IMHO--you'd be better off going with the 3-button Stabilitrak setup (no 2HI/4HI) vs. the 4-button Autotrac setup (2HI/Auto4WD/4HI/4LO--note that Auto4WD mode is not the same as full-time 4WD offered in the 3-button Stabilitrak models); the only (I won't get into the maintenance/repair costs of 2WD-only vs. 4WD) "advantages" of having 2WD (2HI) are slightly (if noticeable at all) better gas mileage and more power to just one pair of drive wheels, if wheelspinning power is your thing...not that one could generate much wheelspin on a near 3-ton SUV. If the latter is very important to you, then you'd probably be better off just getting a 2WD-only vehicle; otherwise, you're not losing a lot by going with the full-time 4WD/Stabilitrak setup--I mean, you get full-time 4WD AND the ability to go 4LO...nothing wrong with that.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    thanx for that info ...

    and to make things even cloudier.. I visit my dealer again this past Monday.. ask him to explain the Stabilitrak.. with the owner, Lease mgr and salesman all there, they say that first button is fulltime AWD and is the same as in the Denali... and that the last lower button is for 4wdHi .. no 4wdLo

    the saga continues..
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    Definitely a sign that you may want to go check out a different dealership... :-) Heaven help anyone who has to take their vehicle there for service...
  • aa555zzaa555zz Member Posts: 55
    Autotrac is a better system for off-road driving. 4x4 models with StabiliTrak have a full-time all-wheel-drive transfer case with 4LO lock. StabiliTrak not available with the locking rear differential.

    Also read post number 3335.
  • tdohtdoh Member Posts: 298
    True, but given that it seems the majority of 4WD SUV buyers these days don't plan on taking their vehicles "off-road"...
  • catamcatam Member Posts: 331
    I am sure this has been discussed but I'll ask anyway because I don't want to read 3000+ posts.
    I am thinking about a Suburban 2500. I am trying to decide between the 6.0L and 8.1L engines. What kind of mileage are people getting both daily and when towing. I am also curious about comparing with 1500 with the 5.3 for daily and towing.
    I have a 4500# boat so the 1500 would handle it, but I think I would prefer the beefer tranny and leaf spring setup in the 2500.
    Also has anyone heard any more rumors about GM putting the Duramax in a Suburban, last I heard was it wasn't likely to happen anytime soon.
  • stakeoutstakeout Member Posts: 173
    when is Chevy going to smarten up and put the HD tranny like what's in the 2500 series in the 1500.. my wife's friend just had her tranny 'go' completely with 50K miles on it in her 2 year old Tahoe with the 5.3 engine... she doesn't tow.. never off road.. drives 30 miles each way to w*rk .. does some over the road driving .. no stop and go big city driving..

    I know a couple of people whose trannies went while towing their medium sized boats.. but this stinks..

    we lease two '01 Suburbans right now.. both are due to go off-lease within the next couple of months.. sure is hard to justify getting a couple of new ones.. Chevy has been known for this in their 1/2 ton trucks for a while now..

    our trannies on the two Suburbans have had minor problems.. both re-calibrated for hard shifting per tech svc bulletins.. this shouldn't be.. not on $40K+ trucks.. also had that 'missing' slippage' that seems like it's out of gear when starting .. only has happened 2x to each one.. then went away.. Chevy service people have no idea.. but I know they know about it...

    whatzzup with the trannies.. I just was in to get a price on a new '04 Suburban.. spoke to the owner, lease manager and salesman at the same time.. the owner seemed dumbfounded that I mentioned how bad the trannies are and the rep they have.. I think not.. but then he questioned what payload I wanted to tow.. I said I didn't..

    darn trucks should be able to tow their limit.. and not have the tranny act up or have it questioned.... I've never towed with either truck.. but know others who have.. the trannies just can't handle it..

    another person I know had to get rid of his new 1500 Subn a while back after towing his 5k# boat.. went up to a 2500HD p/u.. just shouldn't be..
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