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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited April 2014

    @fibber2 said:
    When Subi people get together, the topic still drifts to who's 2008/2009 recently went in for a teardown. The newest I've heard of was a 2010. It's one of the reasons I went for an FB engine.

    I think that MY 2011 was the start of the FB series for Forester, but it did not roll out to Legacy/Outback and Impreza until 2012...? I'm sure cars101 could confirm. Head gaskets are definitely my primary concern with regard to my 2010 Forester.

    Funny enough, the one "real issue" we had with the car's engine this far was due to the oil pump coming loose and a seal between it and the block leaking profusely. It went from a tiny leak (somewhere around Ontario/Quebec on our transcontinental trip last Sept, and about 60K miles) to a fairly severe one (about a half-quart per fill-up at around 64K miles) by the time we were in Montana.

    Having a few stationary days in eastern Oregon, we were able to get a nearby dealer to take it in on short notice. The shop manager said that seal was probably getting very close to a full-on blowout, so it was a good thing we didn't wait to address until we arrived home (which was only about 3,000 miles later!). 71.3K miles on the car now.

    The 0/100 7-year warranty pretty much paid for itself right there. B)

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786

    I think Subaru was somewhat cautious with the roll-out of the FB. It didn't make it to the Legacy & Outback until 2013, I believe. A 2012 CPO we looked at was still an EJ and while the deal was very attractive, I just didn't want to go there again.

    There have been some internal oil consumption issues with early FB's. Some bad rings, etc. But overall it looks (knock on wood) like a solid engine. Believe me, fingers crossed.

    In the mean time, my daughter, despite her putting the first real damage on my 12 year old car, is still thoroughly enjoying driving my old Outback. Don't get me wrong. Despite the HG issues, Subaru makes an excellent product. My Toyota spends far more time in the shop!

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Do I need an intervention? I have a 2002 OBS and I have st stump. I will insert a dropbox link. Not terribly thick - the stump that is....maybe I am. When I was changing my oil the last time I saw two grommets(?) about two feet from the front of the car hanging down. I assume they can be used for towing but should I risk it? I stopped by Home Depot and on the impulse picked up tow straps but I think they have loops on either end - not sure how they would even work. But is it just a real bad idea? The stump moves a bit when I push the top with my foot. So it might not take much but I don't want to leave part of my car in the driveway. I assume if I do it, is it appropriate to use one of the grommets in the front and put it in reverse.

    https://dropbox.com/s/bwgyz1wnnz15ag0/stump.jpg

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Just remembered the jack kit which I left on the side of a West Virginia highway had an eye bolt that may be the proper way to attach a tow strap. I bought a second hand jack but not another eye bolt. Maybe the best thing to do is try to rent a pick and got at it some more.....it sucks cuz I can tell it is just about to go - haha

  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786

    @stackman1 said:
    Just remembered the jack kit which I left on the side of a West Virginia highway had an eye bolt that may be the proper way to attach a tow strap. I bought a second hand jack but not another eye bolt. Maybe the best thing to do is try to rent a pick and got at it some more.....it sucks cuz I can tell it is just about to go - haha

    G'day

    Preparation is the key. Dig around as much of the stump as possible, exposing side roots. If possible get a pruning saw and cut off side roots. Loop strap or rope around d lowest portion of root you can reach and secure to cassis of car. Take up slack in cable, place weighted bag or similar over cable to minimise whip effect when cable breaks. Ensure nobody is nearby as a broken cable is potentially lethal.

    Do not jerk cable. Pull gently and evenly. Be prepared to destroy clutch or transmission as loads can be very high. If you are not prepared for this cost, consider hiring professionasls .

    An alternative is to drill stump and dose with salt-petre to promote fungal degradation of the stump.

    Cheers

    Graham

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited April 2014

    I'd keep digging and chopping. Or, since it looks like the house is masonry, maybe you could start a small charcoal fire at the base, dump an inch or so of dirt on the fire, and let it smolder for a week or so.

    Stump pulling gone wrong (youtube)

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Hey Guys - thanks for the replies. I worried about ending up on Youtube so I returned my strap at Home Depot and picked up a pick axe. That way I can only hurt myself. If the moderator will indulge me I found this video on Youtube that maybe you might enjoy. Sorry if I am way off topic here but you can't beat the American Male when it comes to having stupid fun....

    https://youtube.com/watch?v=5UfRVV3RAVQ

  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454

    I was expecting an American Graffiti moment 20 seconds in. :D

  • busirisbusiris Member Posts: 3,490

    @Stever@Edmunds said:
    I was expecting an American Graffiti moment 20 seconds in. :D

    Too funny!!!

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited April 2014

    @stackman1 said:
    it sucks cuz I can tell it is just about to go - haha

    I pulled a whole bunch of stumps similar to this one back in 2001 when we were first clearing our property. I used my '96 Outback. Fabulous creation, that Outback!

    I think I pulled 18-20 stumps around the size of the one you showed downward to about a quarter that size. I would dig around the stump with my pick axe to break up the smaller roots, dig under the core of the stem until I could wrap the chain around it, and POP! out it comes when I backed the car up. I had a nylon strap through one of the car's front recovery/tie down loops, and then attached that strap to a short length of heavy chain (which was wrapped around the stump core) on the end.

    If the stump has a little give, that's all you need. The weight of the car and momentum will do the rest for you.

    The following year, I used that poor car to tow my pickup, loaded with block, gravel, goods, trailer(s), or you name it(!), up the slippery driveway multiple times. Had it to 220,000 miles and it still left this world far too soon.

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454

    I'd never do that Xwes.

    Okay, once with the Tercel for some Siberian pea bushes. B) It's a wonder we're all not on YouTube.

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762

    Yeah, I'm a wild card. Did I mention that before I pulled the stumps with the Outback, I cut down all of those shrubs (old growth willow, mostly) with a bow saw? I lost count after the second set of 100.... Hahhah!

    But, I didn't end up pulling too many stumps w/ the car because it just took too long. In the end, I pulled the ones I had to pull in order to get up onto the property with vehicles, but left all the rest until I had a dozer up there to start shaping the land for the building site. My original plan was to pull them all with the backhoe that had dug the first rudimentary ramp through the roadside cut bank. Sadly, a hydraulic hose broke about 2/3 the way through the stump-pulling job, so that was that. :p

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    https://dropbox.com/s/q6x6hvdgjyekhfx/Stumped.jpg

    Couldn't risk it - bought a pick.

    Anyway I hope the board has some a/c experience. I have a 2002 OBS and when I went to use the a/c last summer it only worked for first 5 minutes or so - took it to dealer and they recharged but then told me the compressor was shot and I was looking at $1,000. So I decided it was time to start doing more or at least learning more. Got some good jack stands - changed my oil etc but since I am headed to Florida for the summer I need to figure this out. Can't pay that kind of money.

    Watched some videos and realized the first thing I need to do is buy a manifold gauge set. Should arrive this week. The system has a charge and the compressor clutch is engaged or at least spinning. But like I said it blows cold for the first few minutes only. From what I can tell if the pressure on the lines on either side of the compressor are the same it means the compressor probably is dead.....any thoughts?

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    If the compressor clutch is engaged and the compressor is spinning and is quiet, I don't think that's the problem. There are lots of possibilities. You could have too little pressure or too much in the system, you could have a bad or clogged up expansion valve, or you could even have a problem in the HVAC ducting.

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    The system has a charge and the compressor clutch is engaged or at least spinning. But like I said it blows cold for the first few minutes only. It isn't real hot here yet on Long Island. When I turn on the a/c the vent thermometer takes it from 80 to 60 but then it fades back to 70 pretty quick. The high pressure line out of the compressor going into the condenser gets hot like I assume it should - at first - but after about 5 minutes it is just warm. The low pressure line going into the firewall is fairly cool but actually feels colder coming out???? Bad Evaporator?

    Then when I went under the car it appears like the boot on my axle arm is torn under the driver side and sprayed grease everywhere....beautiful. Don't know how much that will cost.

    And to top it off - when I was putting the guard back on top of my drive belts... the back plate(?) that takes the bolt that keeps my guard tight dropped into the engine area and can't find it. Black hole I guess.

    Great day - all in all. :)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Okay, I have gone off into my cave to meditate on your problem and I have answers!

    My crystal ball tells me it is the INNER boot that has torn on the left side. What you need is a set of factory boots and a mechanic to do this disgusting job----here in California that will cost you $237 bucks.

    For the AC I have meditated further and a brilliant light appeared before my eyes---on Subarus of your vintage, it is not uncommon for the AC relay to go bad---just a guess, as the supernatural is always mysterious--but it's cheap and easy to fix.

    @stackman1 said:
    The system has a charge and the compressor clutch is engaged or at least spinning. But like I said it blows cold for the first few minutes only. It isn't real hot here yet on Long Island. When I turn on the a/c the vent thermometer takes it from 80 to 60 but then it fades back to 70 pretty quick. The high pressure line out of the compressor going into the condenser gets hot like I assume it should - at first - but after about 5 minutes it is just warm. The low pressure line going into the firewall is fairly cool but actually feels colder coming out???? Bad Evaporator?

    Then when I went under the car it appears like the boot on my axle arm is torn under the driver side and sprayed grease everywhere....beautiful. Don't know how much that will cost.

    And to top it off - when I was putting the guard back on top of my drive belts... the back plate(?) that takes the bolt that keeps my guard tight dropped into the engine area and can't find it. Black hole I guess.

    Great day - all in all. :)

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    I went and bought a set of Mountain Manifold gauges for $58. Recap - the a/c blows cold for five minutes but then goes back to room temperature. The Compressor clutch is engaged and spinning the whole time. Initially the line going from compresssor to condenser gets hot but soon - not so much. The lines going into the firewall and coming out feel cool but not ice cold; oddly coming out seems colder?!?
    Ok the gauges.
    I hooked them up and before I turned the car on the Low valve read ~65pi; High Side ~ 65psi. I ran the a/c. The High valve briefly spiked to 100psi but then settled back at 60 psi after 5 minutes. But The low side went from 65psi to negative 30psi! What does this mean to you? Was the dealer correct - does it sound like the compressor? The way I see it - the compressor is sucking in the refrigerant - enough to create a vacuum! - does that sound like a compressor issue? I know it also sounds like I am low on refrigerant but now I don't know what to think. This is the first time it had a gauge on it. Maybe the dealer never charged it and just tried to get me to replace the compressor sight unseen....but maybe he did and there is just leaks.....gonna get to the bottom of this somehow. Thanks Shifty

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Shifty - forgot to ask. Are the 'relays' those cartridge type fuses in the engine fuse compartment? I didn't want to pull too hard. Should they be pulled out or do you need a tool? If you get one out - do you just look for a broken filament band like on regular fuses? Thanks

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    No, the AC relay is a little box, I think marked "A", in the main fuse panel in the engine bay. I'm sorry I don't have your car in front of me so I can only give you general location. The actual identity of the relay should be in your owner's manual chart.

    @stackman1 said:
    Shifty - forgot to ask. Are the 'relays' those cartridge type fuses in the engine fuse compartment? I didn't want to pull too hard. Should they be pulled out or do you need a tool? If you get one out - do you just look for a broken filament band like on regular fuses? Thanks

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited May 2014

    Stackman, you cannot see into the relay like with fuses. You can test them, though. They have three prongs, and they should make a "click" sound when you supply power.

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    And if you have two relays in there with exactly the same part numbers, you can switch them out for a test.

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085

    If the AC system was ever totally empty... and was not properly dessicated before recharging... then there may be moisture in the system.

    Why do I tell you this? Becasue your symptoms point to moisture in the system. After running fine for a short time, the water in the system can FREEZE and plug-up the orface-valve. At that point, the HIGH side goes to max pressure while the LOW side goes very low... and no cooling takes place.

    All AC systems contain a "dryer" unit which is supposed to desiccate the moisture from the system. Perhaps your Dryer is saturated.

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Yes. I don't think it was ever totally depleted but I could be wrong. I also was wondering if it could be icing. I mean why would the compressor work great for 5 minutes but not blow cold after that - even though the compressor is engaged? Then wait 10 minutes - run it again - good for 5 minutes etc...

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    Yes it could be icing--that points to low freon or clogged orifice tube. If you are icing, you should see it on the dryer. Also you could have totally gunked up condenser and radiator fins--time for a pressure wash if you see that.

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Is the drier on the 2002 Impreza OBS in the dash with the evaporator? I dont see it.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481

    No I think it's probably on the right inner fender area, in front though I'm not sure. The proper name is "receiver dryer".

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    There is a silver cylinder running the full length of the right side of my condenser. It is about 1.5" in diameter. I am hoping this is it - might take pic in morning. I read that in the 2001-2002 time period they moved the receiver/dryer from inside the condenser to the outside. I bought my 2002 in August of 2001 - go figure. It seems like a pretty solid and lengthy tube....I don't know - the ones I have seen look like smaller soda cans.

  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54

    Looks like my receiver/dryer while external to the condenser is integrated directly into it. There are no lines just soldered ports every few inches up the side of the condenser.

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762

    For those towing or hauling heavy loads, I must highly (HIGHLY) recommend King springs. I picked up a set for ~$500 ("standard" height for 2009+ Forester) and am only sorry that I did not buy them at least a year sooner! They are worth every penny, my friends!

    Check out the difference:

    July 2010 fishing trip:

    July 2014 fishing trip (essentially the same load):

    Spring Comparison:


    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited August 2014

    I gotta go with the silver springs myself. Anything but chums.

    (sorry, a little Alaskan humor there....)

    Got a little seat time in my sister's '05 Forester today. It has a bit over 170,000 miles and is driving great (she just got new tires on it). She's a bit concerned that it may be starting to burn some oil, but her mechanic eyeballed it ans saw nothing wrong. She used a fast lube joint for the last oil change and I'm wondering if they simply didn't top it up. I had the usual issue trying to get a good read on a Subaru dipstick.

    She wants a MINI but is afraid of the reliability, and a Crosstrek has been on her radar for a year now.

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762

    Just be careful out there and don't park too long in the wrong neighborhood..... ;)

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Took the car to the dealer only to learn that the few drops of oil on our garage floor are from an HG leak, both sides. 2009 Forester Limited, purchased new 7/08 with 69.9 now on the odometer. Tech appears to have missed the leaking in July when he changed the oil and did a multipoint inspection. Always serviced at the dealer. My wife's third Subaru and first HG leak.

    Shocked that this is a problem on an 09 with low mileage. Good part is that the cost will be picked up by the Subaru 7/100 extended warranty.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762

    Took the car to the dealer only to learn that the few drops of oil on our garage floor are from an HG leak, both sides.

    Sadness!

    I should check my car's HGs again. I know it was seeping a couple years back, but could not get dealer to confirm. I wonder if they've developed into anything more than that now. 77K on the odo.

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I'm still surprised that I dodged that bullet on my '97 over the years. Bummer @snowbelter. :(
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Hi, all!

    A few years back, someone mentioned about a place to get some good all weather type floor mats. The ones that I got from Subaru for my 2010 wore thru in only a few years, so I am looking for some recommendations for good sturdy floor mats for my 2010 Forester? Thanks!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2014
    @sgloon , hey stranger, lost track of you. We wound up in Las Cruces a month ago and are really liking it. Sold off the old '97 Outback before leaving Michigan.

    The mats you are thinking of are likely the WeatherTech brand.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    sgloon said:

    I am looking for some recommendations for good sturdy floor mats for my 2010 Forester? Thanks!

    Yes! MacNeill Weathertech is the way to go! I bought a complete set for my 2010 Forester upon purchase, and they are still holding up very well (perfectly?) after five years and about 77K miles.

    I am not thrilled with the fit of the back seat floor liner because it tends to slip forward a little, but I put some anti-slip matting under it and that makes all the difference. My kids are absolutely brutal on that back seat!

    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Yes! That was the brand I was trying to recall. Thanks! Unfortunately, I checked their website and they say they are not currently making the all weather for the 2010.. Boo! Perhaps I'll wait a bit to see if they are just redesigning them. I only 'need' the front driver side as there others are in good shape.

    Thanks! XWESX
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    @stever Hey, Stever!!! I think I lost track of myself, too! How is LasCruces? You are not too, too far, you'll have to come visit on your travels. Of course, I love Ojo Caliente, although I think that is a ways from Las Cruces? Have ya run the Rio Grand? If no outback, what do you have now? I'll have to send ya a note later. Hope all is well!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2014
    LC is great! Spent a whole day soaking at Ojo on the drive down (camped there two nights). Did the Racetrack section in June and swam Big Rock (sold our last canoe a couple of months before that). The old van acted up and the AC quit, so we "downsized" to one car, an '09 Grand Caravan, and moved two loads out here in it and one load to Chattanooga, and sold the rest of our stuff.

    Trying to get a place on a rough "private" road - may be wishing for another Subaru when it washes out.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Love Ojo, hope to be there in a couple months if all goes well. Caravan easy to haul your stuff in...but I have seen some of those NM roads...you will want another subie...but by then, you can get rid of the caravan as you have moved already. Ha! I'm trying to get rid of stuff. How did you do it? Garage sale, craigslist? You can always rent a canoe when you want to go...not so much water in/near LC.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Basically we sold our house with everything in it. And yeah, we plan for the van to be a short timer. But ask me again in a year. :)
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Wow! Didn't know people would do that. Makes it much easier for you, and not as much stuff to move. You must to down to next to nothing. Looms?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2014
    Yep, saved a few sentimental things, bikes and camping gear, and left the rest behind. A newly divorced guy snapped the house right up and wanted everything, so I didn't have to try to parcel stuff out. I had borrowed a ~36" Finish barn loom the last year in the UP, having sold my big floor loom the year before. Gave that back so am between looms, but my wife has her smallish tapestry loom. It's pretty portable and lightweight. Going to wait until we get settled to get one for myself. Lots of weavers down here so it shouldn't be too hard to find a nice used one.

    Oh, we managed to make a deal to get the bedroom set and antique Mexican dining room table in this house we're trying to buy. We'll buy some patio furniture for the living room to tide us over while we hunt for real furniture. Yet another reason to keep the van a while.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Another question for my Subaru experts: TIRES? Brand/Model? I'll need new ones for my 2010 Forester after I replace the struts. Any suggestions on brand/type that handle well with this car. The ones that came with it are so-so. I do still have some mileage left to make a decision. I have the 17" version. I might consider switching to 16" wheels at the same time to make it easier to put things on the roof, but not sure if it would be worth it at this point as I do like the clearance. Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited September 2014
    Me again - I really liked the Nokian WR-G2s I put on my '97 Outback. All weather tires. You may want something a bit more aggressive up your way near Denver, but I liked the Nokians so well, I put a set on the Quest. It still was lousy in the snow but the wet weather performance was much improved. The Subie plowed through anything with them.

    Did I mention we got around 240 inches of snow last winter? We weren't the only ones who left town this summer, lol.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    WOW!! 240 inches! No wonder you left for the dry heat. Of course, it was 80 here yesterday.

    I hadn't even thought about that brand. Thanks, Stever. I remember hearing about them a long time ago. It was favorable then as well. I'll check 'em out.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    "I might consider switching to 16" wheels at the same time to make it easier to put things on the roof,"

    If you properly size your tires, switching to 16" whls would put you on 215/65R16 96H tires (instead of 225/55R17 95H). The effective diameter would be almost identical. It won't lower the car.

    I've used several sets of Continental Extreme Contact DWS on my previous Subaru thru 260,000+ miles.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Quite true on the tire size!

    I use that size (215/65R16) on my Forester for its winter tires, which are Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice WRT now. The last set of UGI tires I had on it, which were a prior version, lasted 31,000 miles and five winters (with six months of use each year), wearing from 13/32 down to 7/32 over that time. To contrast, I tried Continental ExtremeWinterContact tires on my Escort and they lasted only about 20,000 miles. I am now trying Blizzak WS70 on my Fiesta and it looks like they will also run about 20K, perhaps a little less.

    Add to this the fact that the UGI have far and away better deep snow traction than either of these two brands, and they are the clear winner for me. I hope/expect that the current UGI WRT will last and perform on par with the last set.

    Honestly, I have not run all-seasons year-round for several years now, so I don't have a good basis for recommending a set at this point. I have been quite happy with the performance and longevity of Goodyear's TripleTread. I have a set on my Forester now (225/55R17) that I use during the "summer" season, as well as having used that tire as the last year-round all-season on my '96 Outback.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • shopdog97shopdog97 Member Posts: 160
    I have a question I'd like to ask for a friend at work who recently bought a 2002 Outback with the 3.0 6 cylinder motor. He got the car pretty cheap because the head gasket(s) need to be replaced. Other than that he says the car is in really good shape. He's an excellent mechanic and has the motor torn down and is in the process of finding a good machine shop to do the head work. He tells me that he can't find the torque specs for the head bolts; he'll be using new ones of course, but he can't fine the torque spec for the 3.0 motor(He tells me he can find all the info on the 2.5 motor (4cyl) but not this 3.0. I suggested a trip to our local Subaru dealer and he says he will eventually do that if he can't find out this info on line anywhere. Does anyone KNOW the torque specifications for the 3.0 engine, or can you steer me in the right direction to find this info? Thanks!!!!
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