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Towing tips for SUVs

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Should be able to tow it without a problem. The problem with the Pilot is that it's a mini-van based chassis, so towing will always be an issue with a FWD based vehicle combined with a mini-van chassis. I've had a few friends tow with the Pathy and it should tow the 3800lbs fairly easily IF you put the proper towing equipment on it.

    Weight distributing hitch
    Sway Controller
    And properly distribute the weight inside the trailer

    With that said, if you are going out and looking for a tow vehicle I'd say you probably want to get something slightly beefier with maybe a 6000lb towing capacity. I had a 2000 Trooper that would tow 3800lbs with ease, so that is a vehicle you could start by looking at.

    -mike
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    The problem with the Pilot is that it's rated for 3500 lbs, not 4500. The salesman that told you that a boat at 4500 is the same as a trailer at 3500 was lying his head off to make a sale. Actually, it's the opposite, since a boat is typically hauled up a ramp, which requires more capacity than hauling on level ground.

    Also, the Pathfinder is also unibody, I used to own one and towed my 4000 lbs boat/trailer with it with no problem. It did have a couple of stiffening rails added to the frame, so it was a bit of a hybrid, frame-wise.

    At this point, there's not much point responding to the original poster since he hasn't been at TH since 5 days after his post (back in April), but I'll say that 75-80% of capacity is a good rule of thumb that I've used, and that trailer was right about there, so the PF would probably have been fine. The trouble is that that would be with nothing but a driver. If the PF was loaded with another passenger or two and some cargo (likely), the capacity could be exceeded by another 300-600 lbs easily and that would be a problem.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The Pilot's rating is 3500 for a std trailer, 4500 for a boat trailer. I think Honda does it that way not because the Pilot is underpowered which 99% of the time is NOT the towing restriction of the tow vehicle, but rather the chassis does not provide enough UMMPH to tow a trailer greater than 3500lbs with a larger cross sectional area. The chassis of the pilot will get tossed around in crosswinds if you have a non-popup trailer or other trailer with a large cross section, whereas a boat generally doesn't have a big a cross sectional area.

    The Pilot is a great vehicle for folks who need a mini-van but are too "cool" to get one and feel they need an SUV. As a tow vehicle yeah it's pretty weak.

    I towed at my Trooper's limit for a while and when time came to get a new vehicle I went for the truck with the most towing capacity in the class. The only trucks with more towing that I can find over my Armada is the 2500 Suburban w/8.1L Engine, and the Diesel Excursion. Both of which cost a ton more and get way way worse fuel milage. (even the Diesel Excursion)

    -mike
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    Ok, I see that you're right, that's what the Honda website says...although I'm dubious over that distinction. Never saw any other tow vehicle make such a distinction.

    In any case, I would agree that it's not a great tow vehicle.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Until the pilot/MDX came out. I believe the Ridgeline has similar restrictions as well. Also interesting in the Ridgeline book they say in there that the tow package has and this is a quote "Huge Brakes" I thought that was interesting and wondered what "Huge Brakes" can do for me. My friend and I were literally laughing when we read the brochure.

    -mike
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Looks like we have an interesting first report in the pipeline for our long term test Ridgeline:

    editor_karl, "Karl's Daily Log Book" #751, 5 Jun 2005 3:54 pm

    Steve, Host
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    From that post:

    "Give me a vehicle that looks like I live an active lifestyle. Don't worry about it actually supporting this look in the least."

    Sounds so familiar :=)
  • boatingboating Member Posts: 17
    I have an 05 Pilot which has the towing package. I have NO problems towing my 19 Ft Stingray Bowrider. The boat/trailer/gas,gear, ect weights about 3,600lbs. Another poster is correct that the Pilot has a weight limit of 3,500 lbs for box trailers and 4,500 lbs for boats. I came from a 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee 6 cyl.
    I have towed on the highway at 65 mph and around town with no problems, including a steep boat ramp. I believe the Pilot tows just as good if not better that the Jeep GC.

    The Pilot has its limitations, just like the Jeep. Both vehicles will never beat a full size truck for towing capacity.
  • 1846618466 Member Posts: 46
    What kind of terrain do you tow in with the Pilot and how many miles do you tow?

    On a flat road towing would be easy on the drivetrain, but continued towing like I do up and down very steep mountains makes the Pilot really work.
  • boatingboating Member Posts: 17
    I live in RI and we have numerous hills in my area. I towed several weeks ago to Foxboro MA, about 60 mile round trip. Several times this season to boat dealer about 25 mile trip. The lake where we boat is about 4 mile trip.

    Hopefully, we will make it to Lake Winnipausaukee this summer with the boat.
    There is no doubt it can handle it, I will not take chances with my two young kids.

    Gas mileage was a concern while shopping for a new SUV as was towing capacity. I am averaging 19 MPG with the Pilot not towing, in every day driving. I figure that 98% of the time, we will not be towing anything. Just every day driving. The Pilot fit the bill everytime it was compared to other SUV's such as a Merc. Mountaineer, Envoy, ect.

    If gas $$ was about $1.30-1.50 a gallon my first choice would be a Tahoe/Yukon. We will never see those prices again. You can't beat a v-8 with full size frame for towing capacity. You have to know the Pilot's limitations before you buy.

    P.S. The Honda sales people were clueless about towing capacity of their vehicles. I did the research myself.
  • rwest6rwest6 Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,
    I have a new popup trailer which will weigh about 2100 lbs when packed and my Drawtite hitch is a Class 1 with a rating of 2000 lbs max. How critical is the 2000 lbs max? Is there any over capacity built in? The TW is right at 200 lbs which is the rating for the hitch. Do I need to replace the Class 1 with a Class 2 hitch?
    Thanks....Ron
  • biglatkabiglatka Member Posts: 78
    I’m planning on getting a 29 foot Fleetwood Pegasus Travel Trailer, dry weight is about 5500 lbs and GVWR is 7500 lbs. I plan on loading it up to no more than 7000 lbs. I presently own a 2004 SR5 V6 and have been dickering with a local dealer to trade it for a 2005 SE V8. He wants $8100 for the exchange and I’m coming back with $7600 (my limit) and he might take it. I was just wondering if the 7000 lb trailer is too much for the 4Runner V8. I’ve been told that wheelbase is very important too. I know the spec on the 4WD SE V8 is 7000 lbs, but has anyone had any experience with a travel trailer this large (and long) hooked up to a 4Runner.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My rule of thumb is 75% of the trailer capability of the tow vehicle will yield the best towing ability. So if your trailer is 7000lbs you want a tow vehicle that can handle about 25% more or roughly 8-10K towing.

    -mike
  • averybaveryb Member Posts: 4
    I am relocating from Atlanta, GA to Phoenix Arizona. I currently have a 1988 Blazer that is in much need of repair – air condition doesn’t work well, door knob fell off and taped backed on so I can’t enter through drivers side, runs like crap, many many other things but you get the picture. Everyone who’s seen it says it won’t make the 2000 mile trip and I’m in agreement with them. So I looked into renting a truck and pulling a vehicle behind it and everything I found was north of 1000 (excluding gas!!) which is way to much for someone barely making above minimum wage and in my economic position. Then my parents generously (and out of the blue btw) offered to give me their 1996 Ford Explorer thinking this would solve my problems. I knew I could get a U-Haul trailer for 230 bucks from my earlier searches using the Blazer. So all my problems solved. I get a really nice car (has leather, temp, all the bells and whistles) and I can rent a trailer which is the perfect size for a one bedroom apartment at what I consider a very reasonable price. Only one problem U-Haul won’t rent you a pull behind trailer if you’re in a Ford Explorer. So I’ve done every google search I can think of for a week trying to find a company that will rent me a trailer for my cross-country move with no results. I called Budget and Ryder and both places said that only U-Haul rents cargo trailers. I’m hoping someone knows of a place that will rent me a trailer or any other advice will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the length of the post but I had to EDIT to get down this much. I could go on for pages on everything I’ve done to try to resolve this.
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    I can confirm that only u-haul will rent trailers to pull on a private vehicle and also that they (idiotically) won't rent for an Explorer. Nonsense, since they will rent to a basically identical Mercury Mountaineer.

    I see 2 possibilities for you:

    1) Go to u-haul with the Blazer and then switch the trailer to the Explorer when you get home. Do the drop off when the u-haul at the other end is closed. Downside of this, of course, is that if anything happens on the way, u-haul will not cover it, so this is a high risk option.

    2) Buy a used trailer in Atlanta and sell it in Phoenix. I did something like this when relocating my son back home in NY from Denver. Bought a Ram 1500 PU to pull a u-haul trailer in Denver and sold it back home...and made a profit on it, even including sales tax.

    Hope this helps and others may have better options.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Option 2 does sound familiar. :).

    Maybe you could trade the Blazer for a cargo trailer?

    Btw, I used to have good friends in Tucson and loved visiting because the thrift stores there are great from all the retirees downsizing. I bet Phoenix is similar. Maybe you should just take what will fit in the Explorer and perhaps get a rocket box for the roof, and then buy stuff as you need it.

    Steve, Host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Besides just tell uhaul if you get jammed up along the way "the guys at the other end didn't say anything about it"

    -mike
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yeah, but if you get jammed up along the way and the trailer busts an axle in Baton Rouge, you'll want to be able to call on U-Haul to fix it without worrying about them grabbing the trailer and dumping your furniture on the curb.

    U-Haul's FAQ is pretty clear about their policy.

    Steve, Host
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    Option 2 does sound familiar.

    LOL, best idea you ever had. I still owe you a few KKs.

    Actually, to make it more familiar and combine my idea and yours about trading the Blazer....I'd say tow the Blazer as the cargo trailer. 'Cept it's too big to use with a dolly carrier afaik.

    Although option 1 is prob very tempting, I think option 2 is the way to go.

    In any case, good luck to averyb...let us know how you made out if you can.

    And paisan....at least he actually needs his SUV, huh? ;)
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    haaaaa.

    What are you driving these days LI Sailor?

    My stable is the 04 Armada, 94 Legacy Turbo 5MT and the 96 Impreza Racecar.

    -mike
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    Well, it's in my profile, an '02 RSX type S. Very Sweet ride...better handling than the Pathfinder or the Ram 1500 was :)
  • gizmopilotgizmopilot Member Posts: 1
    I own a 04 V8 4Runner Sport 4x4 7000lb towing capacity, and own a 2000 235RR (actual trailer length is 25ft)Keystone Tailgator. Keep in mind since this is a toy hauler the axles are further back than a typical travel trailer. The distance the axles are from the pivot point, is what creates the "lever" that pushes around the (especially a short wheelbased) TV. Trailer empty weight is 5200, max weight is 7700 assuming %10 tongue.

    I purchased this trailer in May 2004 and had to drive it home empty 250 miles including several steep grades (the type with the required turn off that has has special signage showing the run-away ramps for vehicles with trailers). The trailer came with a Reese dual cam anti-sway weight distribution hitch and I installed/calibrated a prodigy brake controller before returning home.

    What I found out is going more than 60-65mph and getting passed by tractor trailer was an adrenaline rush. I was pleasantly surprised that the hills didn't have much impact. This got much worse when I filled the trailer with water, groceries and about 1000lbs of "Toys" in the back total trailer weight approx. 6600lbs. After towing the trailer round trip 200 miles by myself I had decided I wouldn't take my family (and probably myself) and the trailer on another trip until I resolved the sway issues. I thought I was going to lose control of the vehicle a couple of times especially going down (not even a steep grade) hill 55mph in winds gusting to 25mph and a tractor trailer passing on the Thruway.

    I looked all over the the net and found that the only possible solution for my setup was a very expensive hitch called a Hensley Arrow MSRP $2995 http://www.nosway.com . I looked further and found they were selling used for around $1400 on ebay and hitchtrader. I found someone selling a used hitch for $1350 but 300 miles away/ I decided it was worth a try and if it didn't work I could just sell it.

    Bottom line there is an amazing difference with the Hensley and I've already had my family on a couple of trips with the trailer and we are planning a 700 mile trip at the end of July to OshKosh WI.

    I would suggest to try and tow the trailer with your tanks empty and fill up as close to your destination as possible. When loading the trailer try to keep it as balanced as possible with approx. 10% of trailer weight on the tongue.

    Other Tips:
    Get a 18volt+ cordless drill with a 3/4" deep well socket it works great for raising/lowering stabilizer jacks and for adjusting the trunnion bars on the Hensley Arrow hitch.

    The only mirrors that I could find that would allow me to see around my TT, not damage the 4Runner, and not virbrate out of position, where the McKesh mirrors at nosway.com. These people definately know their stuff.

    Good luck
  • averybaveryb Member Posts: 4
    I’ve pretty much decided to get the U-Haul with the Blazer and then switch it over to the Explorer unless something better presents itself. I don’t know why (yes I do because I’m a chicken) but I’m worried that some cop will pull me over in Texas and say, “Boy, don’t you know that you can’t pull a U-Haul behind an Explorer.” I don’t think that it is illegal to do this but it might be if it is explicitly stated in the contract in fine print that you can’t pull it behind an Explorer (but who reads that anyway??) So I have to hope there are no problems (ie wrecks or breakdowns) and if they do then just plead ignorance “I didn’t know any better - No one told me I couldn’t pull it with an Explorer - My Blazer broke down.” Well we’ll see what happens but I think this is the cheapest and best option, at least that I can see right now. Someone mentioned that I should trade the Blazer for a cargo trailer. This is not an option because my dad still needs the Blazer to pull the boat. Actually the only reason I bought the Blazer in the first place was to pull the boat and it does this just fine. But as a mentioned earlier the Blazer is getting a little run down so two months ago we put a new hitch on the Explorer so we’d have something nicer to pull the boat with. On another note my brother is a mechanic with Ford (hence the Explorer is in excellent condition) and he as offered to do some maintenance before I leave –oil, breaks, plugs, basically a really good tune-up and said he might replace the factory shocks with some heavy duty ones. So I was wondering if anyone has suggestions on what kind of shocks and any other maintenance/upgrades that I should get for my trip. Specs on the car are 1996 Ford Explorer Limited 4door 2WD 4.0L and the trailer is 6x12 empty weight 1800 with maybe 2000 lb of cargo so lets just say 4000 lbs towing.
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    There's nothing illegal about using the Explorer, it's just a question of u-haul providing support. No cop will give you any trouble. But you are right about the risk of breakdown/accident, etc. I guess you should be extra careful :)

    Actually, the "my Blazer broke down and I switched" is not a bad approach...unless the $ amount is big (you hit a bus), in which case they will find out all the details.

    In any case, good luck, hope all works out.

    Hey, maybe you should just change all the emblems to Mountaineer ones :)
  • averybaveryb Member Posts: 4
    I've been doing more research and more than once transmission coolers have come up. Do you think it would be a good idea to get one installed or is it just a waste of money?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    What kind of vehicle do you have, Avery? And what are you towing?

    tidester, host
  • averybaveryb Member Posts: 4
    Specs on the car are 1996 Ford Explorer Limited 4door 2WD 4.0L and the trailer is 6x12 empty weight 1800 with maybe 2000 lbs of cargo so lets just say 4000 lbs towing, I will be towing this load 2000 miles from Georgia to Arizona. My route is going through AL, LA (New Orleans!!), TX, NM so a lot of desert and some pretty hot areas especially in mid August.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think I would consider it just to take some of the load off the radiator! Does anyone else have any thoughts?

    tidester, host
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    The number one cause of transmission failure is heat, i.e. 'burning' the fluid. Towing that much weight that many miles through that much heat without one is asking for trouble.

    You're towing as much weight as the Explorer weighs. Be careful of the tail wagging the dog, and be sure you have really good trailer brakes!

    Keep it out of overdrive, too...

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • danj1danj1 Member Posts: 1
    I was looking at the Milford GM truck testing facility and noticed a yellow towbar being used on the test trucks. The guy said was a digital towbar that displayed the tongue weight of the trailers. I think it was called it a senzbar. It looked real valid, are they available outside the industry to us truck owners?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    All you really need is a bathroom scale put the tounge on it and then you'll know the tounge weight.

    -mike
  • chris56chris56 Member Posts: 1
    I think Tongue weights of 300 - 900 + lbs would obliterate a bathroom scale.

    Motorweek had a Pat Goss Segment on a product called SenZBar here is the link... http://www.mpt.org/motorweek/goss/2434.shtml

    they have it on the Moterweek website but do not indicate who sells them. Any auto/truck retail outlets carrying them?
  • genghistrongenghistron Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone...

    I'm not a Pilot owner, but I'm interested in buying one soon.

    However, I will be doing a TON of towing in the Pilot. I know it's not the best vehicle for towing, but when I say a TON, I mean a ton of time, not weight.

    In fact, less than a ton of weight! The loaded 5X8 cargo trailer I'll be hauling will probably weigh in at 1600-1700 pounds. With 4 people in the vehicle (this is for a touring band), that's about 2000 lbs, which, from what I understand, is well within the Pilot's limits, even following the 70% rule.

    Has anyone here towed smaller loads like this? Cargo trailers? I know the Pilot isn't great with 3000 lb. boats, but I was wondering how it towed smaller loads. And keep in mind I will be towing this load 5-7 hours a day for 30-day stretches several times a year!

    We used to tow with a Tahoe, but got in a terrible accident this summer (flipped off the highway; trailer and Tahoe destroyed; luckily, everyone was ok). Obviously, safety is the *most* important thing to us. The absolute most important. So in terms of Pilot vs. Tahoe, which would be best consdiering our safety concerns? I know the Pilot is safer all-around, but the Tahoe is better suited for towing and is longer, heavier, and more powerful. Therefore, considering that we will *always* be towing, does this make the Chevy a safer choice?
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    "I know the Pilot is safer all-around, but the Tahoe is better suited for towing and is longer, heavier, and more powerful. Therefore, considering that we will *always* be towing, does this make the Chevy a safer choice?"

    The Pilot IS NOT SAFER if you plan to do a lot of towing. The front wheel drive vehicle is not well-suited to a lot of towing. It seems that there have been many who have had transmission problems towing trailers with the Pilot. If you want to be safe-you need a body on frame vehicle. This setup is much more suited to towing. You don't have a true frame on the Pilot. The entire "stress" of towing is put on every wield, every joint, every door. NOT GOOD for towing. If you want to stay with a smaller tow vehicle, take a close look at a 4Runner. You could get the V6 and be just fine. This come equipped from the factory ready to tow and are built for it. You could also take a look at the Tahoe.
    Good luck!
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    I agree that the Pilot is not a great towing vehicle, in general. But 1600 lbs is a very light load. I highly doubt that folks that have had problems towing with the Pilot have had such low loads.

    Hmmmm...1600 + 4 folks = 2000 lbs? Pretty lightweight folks...a all (small) girl band? :)

    IMHO, if your numbers are right, you should have no trouble with the Pilot.
  • pretzelbpretzelb Member Posts: 64
    Is there any advtanage or disadvantage to having the tow hitch installed when you get the car or having it done after the purchase? Or maybe having it done at the dealer or somewhere else?
  • rvtowguyrvtowguy Member Posts: 1
    I have a Ford Escape 2005 4WD, and I want to tow it behind my Motorhome. Problem is, FORD has no information on the best means of towing the SUV. I would REALLY appreciate any information that can be provided, i.e., Do I need a special tow dolly? Equipment, etc.... :confuse: :confuse:
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Here's a link to the information you need:

    http://www.motorhomemagazine.com/dinghytowingguide/2005/DinghyRatings_p16_25.pdf-

    Scroll down to the Truck/SUV category to see the Ford Escape. Looks like you have a 55 mph speed limit, no distance restriction, and can tow 'wheels down' if it's a manual tranny.

    Hope this helps.
    Cheers!
    Paul
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you get it installed by the dealer then there would be no question if there are warranty issues later on. I have installed my own hitches and haven't had issues. Some cars are harder to install your own than others. I like the Hidden Hitches best for aftermarket.

    -mike
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    All car makers have maximum recommended towing capacity for their products. So, if they say a car can tow a certain weight, one is going to assume you need to put a hitch on it. The only thing I would caution is putting the right class number hitch on the vehicle. If you put a heavier hitch on it than what is recommended to tow, then you could have issues should a warranty concern come up. They will say, "Well you have a class one instead of a class two-you apparently have been towing for than you should!"
  • brandonflybrandonfly Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2006 Honda Pilot. I want to put a towing package on it but have run into some questions. Having a towing packaged installed by someone other than the dealer, they said they could install one only if I did not have a full size tire. I called the dealership and they said if I purchased the Honda one that was not an issue, however, the recommended installing an automatic transmission cooler and a power steering cooler. THis basically quadrupled the price of a trailer hitch. We pull a small pop-up camper and a utility trailer on occasion with yard/landscape supplies for our home.

    My previous vehicle was a 97 toyota 4-runner, we had no problem pulling with it. Did it have coolers on it from factory? Are these really necessary? Help before a fall prey to a scare tactic.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    If the towing is less than 1000 pounds, I would just go with the transmission cooler. This helps the tranny in heavy stop and go traffic as well.

    I have an '05 4Runner with the V8. It came ready to tow from the factory with brake controller wiring harness, transmission cooler, power steering cooler, etc. I don't know about your '97 though. I tow a 4,500pound-21 foot travel trailer with my 4Runner.

    Make sure you get someone who has been in business a long time to install your hitch. These guys generally know what they are doing. This (hitch install) is all they do. Stay away from people who install hitches and rent trailers!

    If I remember correctly, if the hitch came with the Pilot from the factory, I believe the transmission cooler is installed as well. I wouldn't sweat the power steering cooler for light duty towing.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Heat is the number one enemy of a transmission. Get the tranny cooler & change the fluid annually. Cheap insurance, IMHO.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • tahoedavetahoedave Member Posts: 9
    I recently traded up (way up) from a '97 F-150 to a '07 Tahoe LTZ. I need to find the proper ball mount to tow my Floe gull-wing style enclosed snowmobile trailer. With my F-150, I used a straight ball mount (little to no drop). The Tahoe, however, appears to sit much higher off the ground. From the ground to the top of the ball mount hole is 25" but from the ground to the bottom of the trailer coupler is only 13". Do I really need a 12" drop ball mount? I'm not even sure they make such a thing. What I would ideally like is an adjustable, cushioned ball mount. Being that the F-150 is the only vehicle I've ever towed with, can someone with more towing experience give me a hand? Thanks.
  • zahrezahre Member Posts: 3
    I am new to this forum and need some help. We have just ordered a horse trailer. I have a 2002 Toyota 4Runner 6 cyl. 2 wheel drive. We have had a class III hitch installed rated 5000lbs., which is our maximum towing capacity. We plan on having a transmission cooler and a trailer braking system installed this week. Would the weight distribution hitch and Air shocks be a good idea also? Or should we just go out and get a used truck for trailering? Trailer weight empty is about 2500lbs. We will be mostly hauling 1 horse (1000lbs.) around town for lessons etc. occasionally 2 horses for about 4500lbs. max. I am new to trailering and I just want everyone to be safe. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    You need to be very careful here, as you're approaching the maximum rated towing capacity for your 4Runner. As a rule of thumb, you don't want to exceed about 75-80% of your rated capacity - lest the tail start wagging the dog.

    Trailer brakes & the weight distributing hitch would be absolutely mandatory. The tranny cooler would be money well spent, otherwise you'll be spending more for a fried tranny later. :) Air shocks? maybe, but the weight-distributing hitch should take care of most of that issue. Be sure to add air to the 4Runner tires when towing to compensate for the extra load.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You have to consider how occupants and gear were accounted for when comparing vehicle towing capabilities.

    varmint, "Acura MDX" #6363, 19 Sep 2006 10:10 am
  • lbotrlbotr Member Posts: 3
    I am exploring my options: open to new or two to three year old SUVs or Trucks that are $25,000 or less. I am towing a fish and ski boat with a 90 HP engine and of course trailor. Can't find the weight of the boat/trailor, but I know I can take it to a weigh station to weigh. My qst is what do I want to be sure the SUV or Truck is equipped with for towing? And does anyone have any suggestions as to some vehicles to look at? I was thinking at the least an AWD/V6 (really don't want a V8) vehicle, I would like ESC, and compatible safety features. ( I do alot of traveling). I just don't want to be "fooled" by a sales person trying to convince that their vehicle "can tow". thanks!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    And it's just a guess would be that it weighs in at around 3000lbs for the boat, motor and trailer. So you'll want to get something that tows about 25% more than that.

    -mike
  • lbotrlbotr Member Posts: 3
    thank you so much for the info mike!
This discussion has been closed.