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Acura MDX (pre-2007)

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Comments

  • ams00ams00 Member Posts: 2
    In every Honda that I've driven, you have to turn on the AC for the defroster to work correctly, so you may want to try that. I'm getting my MDX this afternoon, one day to late for our "snowstorm" of last night, but hopefully I can find some DC roads that aren't yet clear (shouldn't be too difficult).
  • albert123albert123 Member Posts: 71
    I'm planning a trip to Truckee(north of Tahoe) next week. Do I need(or will I be required) to put chains on the tires?
  • albert123albert123 Member Posts: 71
    mdorhan, a new V8 will first appear in RL(2002?). Then it'll show up in the MDX(2003?). It'll be targeted on ML430/X5 4.4 instead of ML55/MX5.
  • outlaw32outlaw32 Member Posts: 8
    I beleive you need to keep the ac ON for the system to be most effective. Actually, it is the flow of air at similar but slightly warmer temp (from the AC) that defrosts best rather actual heat coming from the air (convection process) . That's why american car defrosters (which rely on warm air to defrost) defrost ok in the middle of the windshiel but form a cloud of condensation in the periphery of the windshield. Hope this made sense.
  • mdx1mdx1 Member Posts: 63
    About 2-3" snow fell this morning. I went out the lunch time to start my almost 2 weeks old MDX but it wouldn't start! It took three tries to get started. I never had this problem before. The outside temperature was not too bad. It was about 34 degrees. This is the 2nd tank of gas for the car and I put in Texaco Plus (octane rating 87 here) as an experiment. The 1st tank was provided by the dealer and my salesman told me they put in Amoco premium. Let's hope this is not a regular event.

    Other than that, driving on the roads covered with some snow and some slash has been very secure without no slips or slides.
  • albert123albert123 Member Posts: 71
    pocahontas, how do I pull up all the messages(#1 to the last) for a keyword search. With the new format, it only gives me up to 20 messages at a time.
  • galvanggalvang Member Posts: 156
    No, I do not believe you have to put chains on the MDX if snow controls are in affect(R1,R2). But you do have to carry them in your trunk in CA or get ticketed with a fine if the CHP decides to search. Your 4x4 should get you thru without chains. Some storms are coming the christmas weekend so be prepared.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    ... what the MDX's CG height is? Someone in the Rollover forum is wondering what the MDX's Static Stability Factor is.
  • wmquanwmquan Member Posts: 1,817
    Please note that the MDX manual specifically says not to use chains. Instead, it specifies cables. I believe you can do damage with regular chains.

    That said, it's tough to find cables to fit the MDX's relatively non-standard tire size. Tried Sears and Les Schwab (the latter being a major regional tire supplier that carries lots of chains, with very friendly refund policies on them if you don't use them), no luck. Tried a few Internet sites. Called up the Acura dealership and they wanted $80. Pricey, but since I want them in the back just in case when we go over to grandma's for Xmas, may not have any choice!
  • rxcurerxcure Member Posts: 33
    A few posts back you noted the stick-on "BackSee" mirror which helps when parking. Is this mirror actually so designed that it enables you to see the bumper? Where could we find one? I find this a common problem with SUV's and minivans -- it's a lot harder to gauge where your bumper is than when driving a sedan.

    Thanks for the tip
  • foobarguyfoobarguy Member Posts: 16
    I ordered a DX in October. I'll probably be getting the call soon that it's ready to pick up. Last week, however, I did some extensive test-driving of Sequoias and got won-over by this big beauty. I know that the DX and Sequoia are different animals but I was really surprised by how nice of a ride the Sequoia produced. I elaborate on my decision more on a DX s. Sequoia thread on Acuramdx.org. You can see it here. Good luck to everyone with your new SUV!
  • foobarguyfoobarguy Member Posts: 16
    Someone probably already noticed this but my prior post got messed up by the software on this message board. The "DX" references should obvoiusly be m-d-x. wow.
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Member Posts: 58
    The defroster works best with the A/C on. When I turn the dial to defrost on my Passport (I know its an Isuzu) the A/C turns on automatically.

    The A/C actually cools the air, condensing the moisture and trapping the water before it gets out of the vent. The vent blows dry air and no fogging.

    Hope that helps.
  • mdx1mdx1 Member Posts: 63
    On the colder winter days with the climate control set to full auto, my MDX always runs its heater fan at the maximum speed after the engine heats up. The fan blows this way for a very long time. Frequently I have to hit the fan speed button to set it to a lower speed to reduce the noise.

    Is there a way to change this default behavior to have the fan start at a lower speed in the full auto mode?
  • hairman_61hairman_61 Member Posts: 10
    I picked up my Base GG today, MSRP with wheel locks and cargo tray thrown in. When I picked it up there was a slight problem with the rear hatch (the thing that hides the 3rd row headrests) not lying flush with the 3rd row seats down. It appears the hatch was slightly bowed. The dealer noted this and suggested I bring it in to a dealer closer to me so that they can order me a new one (didn't want to have to drive 90 miles again just to pick up this piece!).

    This thing drives GREAT! Computer says I averaged a little over 20 mpg (mostly freeway driving). Base stereo seemed just OK. Seats were very comfortable. I was having problems slamming the rear hatch hard enough for it to close properly. I noticed that my interior lights were not going off when I shut all the doors and it was because the rear hatch was not closed completely. Not too crazy about the parking brake but I'm sure I'll get use to it.

    I was thinking about the extended warranty but needed more time to mull this over so I didn't purchase it at the time (I'm leaning towards getting it though) The dealer wanted $1650 (no deductible) for the factory warranty which extends the warranty to 7yrs/100,000 miles What do folks think about the extended warranty? What were other folks quoted?

    Tomorrow I'm going to buy some accessories for this thing. Has anyone ordered the Fender Flares and installed these themselves? Do they just snap on/require glue? I'm also going to get the tailgate defector. Someone had mentioned a while back that it requires some drilling but that it only took them about 15 minutes to do it. Finally, has anyone bought the 6-disc CD changer that mounts underneath the driver's seat? Hopefully its already pre-wired to accommodate this.

    Thanks and Merry Christmas everyone.
  • ams00ams00 Member Posts: 2
    The only things that I see in the manual about the break-in period are that you should avoid full throtle and hard breaking. I didn't see anything in the MDX manual that says that you should remain below a certain speed for a certain number of miles, but I have heard people mention that here. Could someone tell me where they heard that the speed should be maintained below a certain speed for a certain number of miles and could someone tell me what is the max speed for the break-in period.
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    I bought my BackSee 8x10" lens from JC Whitney after wandering through the AutoZone and Pepboys in my area in vain. I also bought the DesignTech halogen lightbulbs for the backup lights (haven't installed them yet but sure could have used them last night on a badly lit street). I'm glad Drew told me about the BackSee. I find it very useful. When parallel parking, you know you're just about to hit the car behind you when its bumper disappears off the lens (where it's mounted on my ML...not sure how it will work on an MDX). I'll have pictures up soon along w/ a longer review if you're curious.
  • scubaflexscubaflex Member Posts: 13
    First off let me congratulate Edmunds on finding the sorriest posting software available :) This stuff logs you out *quickly* when trying to post a message THEN requires you to buzz around there site to log back on to try and post a message again ... go figure???????

    Thanks everyone for your responses and suggestions regarding using the AC in conjunction with the defroster. Seems goofy to me to be running the AC w/the heat on during the winter time as a default setting for the defrost. I've never owned a car *that made that decision for you* ... and don't like it. I've used the AC intermittently with other cars in the past and it will pretty much clear up the "fogged" areas immediately but generally I can leave it off and just run the heat up the windshield and that works fine -- that's in my other cars of course -- NOT the MDX. Perhaps it's because the windshield is SO big.

    My original posting was more of an observation that the heat level and vent direction IS inadequate for melting ice off the windshield and side windows while the vehicle is in motion. Having the AC on could not possibly assist in clearing this exterior ice; although it probably would have some impact on "defogging" all areas of the interior of the windshield -- separate problem. The other point was the fact the wipers seem to be mounted too low to benefit from the heat produced by the defrost system. Generally the wipers will lay in a position high enough on the windshield that they will be directly above the air flow of the defroster vents -- resulting in heating the wiper blade and melting any ice that has formed on them. SUCH is not the case w/the MDX -- the blades are too low. If you have frozen crap on your blades --- enjoy it cause your defroster isn't going to melt it -- and when you need to use your wipers to wash away all the road muck that has splashed up on your windshield -- foget it cause they will be covered w/ice and will streak the windshield bigtime. So the question is ... has any one else experienced this OR am I just a big moron who has been driving for 27 years and can't figure out how to use my wipers and defroster correctly?
  • kkuetkkuet Member Posts: 28
    no, you're a moron. just joking. i know what you're talking about, but all of my cars i've ever driven have problems with the wipers in real heavy snow. don't know what to tell you.
  • wmquanwmquan Member Posts: 1,817
    mdx1:

    It shouldn't have problems starting under the conditions you described (e.g. it should start on the first try). Another poster here mentioned starting in much colder conditions in Minnesota, with no problems. Perhaps you might want to get it checked at your dealership?

    scubaflex:

    Don't know what to say, so far we haven't seen similar complaints from others driving in even harsher conditions. But maybe someone will peep up, along with their solution.
  • snowman6snowman6 Member Posts: 13
    Thanks for earlier posts regarding chains and California requirements. Just so that I fully understand, if you are driving up to Tahoe and are required to carry chains, does the CAP require you to have chains for all 4 wheels or are chains for 2 wheels sufficient??
  • bicoastalbicoastal Member Posts: 10
    I'm pretty sure that only chains for one axle are required; that's all a 2wd vehicle needs to have for R2.

    I've never been checked for the presence of chains at one of the checkpoints (Toyota Previa AWD, Range Rover, Subaru), and I've never been in any situation on the principal roads where I ever felt like chains were needed.

    Regarding getting the right size chains/cables for the MDX - you only actually need to put them on when conditions get to R3, and, as I understand it, the highways are usually closed by then. I suspect that you'll never actually put them on (unless you live up there and need to be out and about in the most severe conditions), and I also suspect that the CHP would never check to see if the sizes of the chains match the wheels/tires. So....
  • zonnzonn Member Posts: 9
    I too am new to driving an SUB and I was intrigued with Kenyee's response to your post about lane changes and getting used to the larger size of this vehicle. Kenyee wrote that in addition to adding the BackSee, he adjusted his mirrors according to what he read in a book by Curt Rich. I wanted to know what this adjustment was and I found this article. Although this method may not be the same as the one in the book, it might help. Here is the method.

    Now there is a remarkable simple solution discovered by an engineer named George Platter. He presented his method at the prestigious Society of Automotive Engineers. The National Safety Council tested his theory and discovered, to their amazement, that it works! The method has been tested and fully endorsed by the National Safety Council as described in their September/October issue of Traffic Safety. Here's how it works.

    First, forget how we learned to adjust our outside mirrors by plopping behind the steering wheel and turning the mirrors so that we just saw the side of our car looking back at us in the mirrors. Instead, adjust the driver's side mirror by resting your head against the driver's side window and then turning the mirror so that you just see the side of your car. Once this is set, move to the center of the vehicle and turn the passenger side mirror so that you can just see the side of your car from the center of the vehicle. That's it. You won't see your own car in either mirror, yet what you will see is far better. Cars behind you show up as usual in the inside rear view mirror above the dash, but the instant the car leaves your field of vision from the rear view mirror the outside mirror picks it up. No. blind spot; no delays; no wondering where that car about to pass you has disappeared to--and no waiting a few seconds for the car that you just saw in your rearview mirror to show up in your outside mirrors. All three mirrors work in harmony with one another, and the blind spot has been eliminated!

    I'll try this myself. Kenyee, if your method is different, let us know!
  • zonnzonn Member Posts: 9
    It also changes S.U.V to SUB
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Yep. That's it the technique. Curt mentioned it in one of his newsletters as a quote from his book, but I couldn't remember which one.
    It works very well for the ML's blind spots which are worse than the MDX's IMHO. The BackSee lens fixes the blind spot that's covered by the hatch for the most part unless someone/thing is resting directly on your bumper.
    p.s., you could avoid using the Spell Checker...people always wonder why I never have a spell checker installed on my system ;-)
  • galvanggalvang Member Posts: 156
    Agree with coastal that two wheels are suffiecient for cables. Cables only please for MDX, no chains. I have been in a couple sitiuations where the CHP has checked if I was carring chains. And happily pointed out to them. Most of the time they don't check and also for sizes when they do.

    R3 conditions means that you have to have cables/chains including 4-wheel drive and I do beleive its all four wheels. After driving for many years in the sierras I have yet to drive under R3 chain controls even in the worst of blizzards.

    Here is the official CALTRANs winter page that talks about the r1,r2,r3 chain controls. For some tips check it out.

    http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/wntrdriv.htm
  • always49always49 Member Posts: 29
    Thanks a lot for this forum. I've learned a lot here and is a daily reader. I have been watching the news about MDX for quite a few months and bought my MDX w/ navigation two weeks ago at MSRP. So far I love it a lot. If anyone needs to know more about the experience to drive the new MDX, feel free to ask me questions.

    BTW, can somebody educate me what IMHO is?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Member Posts: 1,078
    It means In my humble opinion or In my honest opinion.
    What car did you own previous to the MDX? Do you find the width of the MDX a handful when parking? Does it feel car-like. I currently own a 2001 CL-S, and I've got the itch to perhaps trade-up to get the all-weather capability of the MDX but I'm concern that I would miss the smooth power of the CL-S.
  • always49always49 Member Posts: 29
    Thanks for the meaning of IMHO.
    I drove Accord94 EX and used to park it with my wife's BMW328i in the garage. Now after the DX, I am out. Fortunately we have a NV parking space next to the garage, so far DX is there over night.
    Ye, the DX is wide. As it's still brand new, I have to park a mile away if the space is narrow. For bigger space like in Costco, I don't need to do it.
    Comparing with those Subs (Sequoia, 4Runner, QX4, Explorer sports Track) I drove (or test-drove) before, DX is much car-like. But DX 300 is a little better than MDX, just IMHO. The 01 CL-S? can't be compared with MDX in car-like. MDX is power smoothy but bumpier than most sedans for sure. But I like the feeling.
  • always49always49 Member Posts: 29
    Sorry canadiancl, the above msg is for you. Forgot to put your name in.
  • mdx1mdx1 Member Posts: 63
    It is rather interesting that California chain requirements do not differentiate
    4WD from 2WD vehicles.  The Colorado
    Chain Law     permits 4WD vehicles without chains provided they have proper tires.
  • jcyoungjcyoung Member Posts: 1
    Here is the outside air temperature calibration instructions for a 2000 Acura TL with this same outside air temp display.
    Press the reset and select button for the odometer at the same time for about 10 seconds.
    The outside temp will then change to numbers from -3 to 3.(-3, -2, -1, 0, 1, 2, 3)
    Depending if you want it to go up or down, release on the number you want.
    If you want it to go down 3 degrees, release on -3, and so on.
    If you want to do more than 3 degrees, do it repeatedly until you get what you want.
    I hope this helps.
  • nyckidnyckid Member Posts: 16
    This new forum really bites!!

    How many times do I have to log in to post one message??!!
    Anyway....
    I just got a call from my dealer. Apparently, the factory was backed up with orders to NYC for December. I put my order in on November 15 and I'm hoping that it will be here before the New Year (hey... don't make fun of me.....a guy can dream, can't he?)

    I have a car for sale now..... any takers?

    I will be back with comments on how it handles here in NYC. West Coast and East Coast experiences seem to differ slightly. I want to see for myself.

    Happy Holidays :o)
  • mdrohanmdrohan Member Posts: 6
    albert123: let me clear up what i meant in what i said about a v8 being in the mdx and other acura products:

    >a new V8 will first appear in RL(2002?).
    yes, that is what i hear they are planning on

    >Then it'll show up in the MDX(2003?). I
    Well, maybe. I'm not sure if they will put it in the 2004 NSX before the mdx or not.

    >t'll be targeted on ML430/X5 4.4 instead of ML55/MX5.
    Yes, i am aware of that. What i meant was that a v8 TYPE -S would compete with the ml55 and the x5m or whatever bmw is gonna call it. If you think what acura did when they "type-sed" the 3.2 v6 engine, by adding 35 more hp (i think), just think what a tupe-s v8 could do. I just can't wait untill 5 years from now in a motortrend article comparing high performance suvs: "SUV SHOOTOUT!! we compare the ml55, the x5m, ACURA MDX TYPE-S, porsche cyanne, and the ford svt expedition lightning."
  • kenyeekenyee Member Posts: 738
    Will soon be no more because of the MX5. My guess is a supercharged one using the same system as the C32 :-)
  • toeouchtoeouch Member Posts: 14
    We've got over 4k on our MDX. It has developed a series of irritating squeaks that appear to come from seats, but it is still a bit hard to follow their exact sources. I was wondering if any other owners have experienced odd squeaks from the rear areas?
  • kkuetkkuet Member Posts: 28
    enchante

    well, i tried posting last week but it didn't show up on the screen. damn new software:-) i'm in michigan and we got six inches of fresh snow last week. i got up pretty early and was able to test it before many others were able to get on the streets. it performed marvelously. didn't hesitate at all as it plowed through the undriven road. it doesn't even have trouble going from a dead stop in really deep snow. however, like any other cars, it does slip a little when breaking and the abs really pulsates. but at no time did i feel unsafe. i also drove it later in the day where the roads were still covered, but others havd had driven through. again, no problems at all. didn't experience any fishtailing or sliding sideways.

    like someone else mentioned earlier, i also have the abs light go on if the front passenger is leaning forward or something. is that a problem that should be brought to the attention of the service dept?

    as for oil change, i signed a liftetime oil change with my dealer for $129. it not just the lifetime of the mdx, but for any acura i may also buy in the future. and i can change oil as often as i like.
  • wmquanwmquan Member Posts: 1,817
    "... i also have the abs light go on if the front passenger is leaning forward or something. is that a problem that should be brought to the attention of the service dept"

    If you mean the SRS light (airbags), and not the ABS (braking), and it happens when the front passenger leans forward, then it's not a problem. There's a sensor that tries to determine if the front passenger is too small or too close to the airbag.

    There have been similar "complaints" from folks who have a bag sitting on the front passenger seat in a certain position.
  • railrrailr Member Posts: 36
    This was discussed a whiles back (but with this new BBS software it would be hard to know).... Squeaks/noise from the rear are usually due to the leather seats, check out :
    This Link

    Rail
  • need4spdneed4spd Member Posts: 92
    I've not posted in a few days mainly because it's so frustrating to get this to work right. Every time I think I've got it, the next time a post won't post or something else happens. I even followed all the instructions about dumping the cache, etc. Also, note that the spell checker gives some strange results. "Audi" becomes "Audio" and "BMW" becomes "BUM" or "BAM" or something like that. I had tried to post regarding mirrors and blind spots but somehow it never made the board even though I was logged in and everything. Let's see if this one even makes the board...
  • mdx1mdx1 Member Posts: 63
    The 10 min timer and spelling checker are annoying. Here are a couple
    of things I've tried:

    1. Use a word processor to write up the message and run the spelling check. I found Netscape composer is quite adequate for this task plus it can manipulate HTML tags with ease.
    2. If the timeout occurs, start another windows (Ctrl+N) and use it to post while keeping the message visible on the original window.
  • GLeenGLeen Member Posts: 46
    I too am hearing minor noises from time to time coming from the back seats. It is more of a rattle then a squeak. Like the seat belt is hitting the plastic side. Any update on what it is?
  • rkuehnrkuehn Member Posts: 120
    You are not alone, I agree the new software is lousy. But someone at Edmunds is insisting, probably the guy who was hired to "upgrade" things. One of the ultimate measures of a web site is eyeballs, and I personally have been spending much, much less time on Edmunds' town hall since the software change. If my experience is not alone, Edmunds is chasing away many visitors to the site. Doesn't that defeat the whole purpose?
  • sgautamsgautam Member Posts: 1
    I scraped my brand new MDX while backing off, thanks to my neighbor who parked his truck blocking half of my driveway. The paint got peeled of a little at couple of places (just a 5 inches line and a spotty chip off). Though I can live with that but I want to know if there is a cheap and reliable way to fix this up. Or do I need to go to the Acura service center.
  • tsc020tsc020 Member Posts: 8
    Adh57 and Jaynedough, I did receive my MDX on Dec 20. My refundable deposit ($2,500) was placed on Oct. 7th (before the MDX open house.) The mileage on my car was 5 miles.

    The following was posted on the old forum after the cut over.

    Got my VIN number on Dec 13th, hopefully my baby MDX
    is delivered before the holiday.
    Here is a check list based on the inputs from many
    of the current MDX owners in this Edmunds
    townhall:
    1-look for orange peel paint
    2-the mileage on the car, to ensure is not a demo car
    3-the accessories purchased
    4-free tank of gas, promotional gadgets, leather
    cover for the user manual
    5-w/o rust proof under-coating still under
    warranty
    6-the extended warranty can be purchased later or
    elsewhere
    7-pick up the do-it-yourself accessories at the
    parts department
    8-Break in period is the first 600 miles, no hard
    breaking (first 200 miles), avoid full-throttle
    starts and rapid acceleration, Premium gas
    preferred, drive 55MPH or below .
    9-first oil change ~3500 miles
    10-first VTM-4 fluid change ~ 7500 miles
    11-submit your dealer survey and provide dealer
    rating at www.acuramdx.org
    12-continue to provide feedback to this conference
    after you became an 'official' MDX owner
    13-park your car on 2 parking spaces to avoid door
    dent
    14-expect other drivers to check out your car
    15-expect some noise either from the wind, glove
    compartment or the 3rd row seat.
    16-expect 5 stars from the crash test for the
    MSRP(or more)price we paid.

    I would like the MDX owners and buyers to the waiting wasn't easy (2+ months) but it is
    finally coming to an end for me.
  • DimaDima Member Posts: 14
    Go to your Preferences, type "MDX" in the box for spell check exceptions.
    I agree with the new software critics - simplier the better. Edmunds town hall used to be THE place to go just for that reason. Guess what? The tribe may just pack up and move to another valley one day. I am spending more and more time in the other dot org place.

    Also, to answer some of the recent questins I am posting my collection of the MDX tips and tricks I've cut and saved over a couple of months, so get your author rights layers ready - here it goes:
    #211 of 322: insurance (andyn2) Fri 27 Oct '00 (11:57 AM)
    Got my base model MDX last week. I just got it
    insured with Farmers Ins. for $325/6 months with
    $1000 deductible. Also quoted for $388 with $500
    deductible, $418 with $240 ded. and $464 with $120
    ded. I live in Glendale Hts, IL 60139. I was paying
    $242/6 months ($1k ded.) for 1993 Sable before. I
    don't know how are the quotes compare to every body
    else, but I think it's reasonable for me.

    #221 of 322: Hondacuraworld (jhw01) Fri 27 Oct '00 (02:07 PM)
    Just contacted Hondacuraworld, their prices are
    about 5% cheaper than AHMotors and if you order
    enough, they will ship them free for you. Not bad.
    Has anybody had any experience with them before?
    They are Ray Laks Acura based in Buffalo, NY.

    Tim P.
    E-Mail: hondacuraworld@aol.com
    Phone #: 716.826.4109
    Web Site:
    hometown.aol.com/hondacuraworld/myhomepage/business.html

    The sunroof
    visor was also pretty easy...just a couple of
    brackets. I also bought Prostripe 1/2 round 1 inch
    wide molding (M941202) and put it on. I
    positioned it using the lines where the front and
    rear bumpers meet the upper body, so it looks like
    it actually belongs on the car.

    Prostripe is owned by Avery-Denison, the label
    people. They have their own website,
    www.prostripe.com. This site has a distributor
    listing; I found a few of their dealers in my So.CA
    neighborhood so I will be contacting them for an
    install price.

    JDFord has more guts and experience than I do so
    I'll have the auto body guy put the molding on -
    the last thing I want my wife to say is, "Gee, it
    looks kinda crooked, doncha think?"

    Leather fails? What does that mean? It is skin,
    you know, and has to be cleaned and conditioned
    regularly (ideally every 2-3 months). If not, the
    leather will dry and the creases will be very
    obvious. It may even crack further down the road.
    It will not be covered under warranty since its due
    to lack of care (considered wear and tear).
    Use a good product such as Lexol cleaner/Lexol
    conditioner, and you should be fine. The protection
    package is a waste of money since it will wear outafter a couple of months.
    Simply follow the detailed step-by-step
    instructions (with pictures) at www.lexol.com and
    you should be fine. It's basically like washing
    your face with a soft cloth. No special tricks
    needed to cleaning perforated leather. I recommend
    that you clean/condition the leather around the 1st
    or 2nd week of December. The protection should
    last all the way till late February. Remember to do
    the leather steering wheel as well.

    #198 of 216: Invisible Bras (railr) Mon 27 Nov '00 (02:06 PM)
    A search with Google.com led to:
    http://www.xpel.com/

    They don't appear to have an MDX bra yet.

    To be prepared, I applied for PeopleFirst auto
    loan. Got approved in 10 minutes!!! Incredible.
    Their "Blank Check" is "in the mail"
    ;-). Good for 45 days. I hope there will be NO
    SURPRISES with the dealer's estimated delivery
    time!
    Based on earlier posts from today, I also checked
    e-loan, which actually had better rates (7.3 vs
    7.9). I called PF and they gladly matched! What
    an incredible customer service. I wish some Acura
    dealers learn from them!

    I've been in contact with Thule US. The've
    confirmed in writing that THULE is the OEM Supplier
    to acura fo
  • tsc020tsc020 Member Posts: 8
    I just installed the moon roof visor and splash guard on my base Beige MDX. Although I am usually pretty handy but the visor was a little tricky to install. It is easier to install it from outside than through the sun roof. After you line up the 2 corners below the holes on the visor, put the protective tape on, 1 hand hold the hook and the nut, the other hand hold the screw from the top of the visor then slowing tie the nut on each side. My mistake was to put the screw, the hook and the nut on first then try to push the hook to clip on to the corner of the roof. I think I can do it in less than 5 minutes the next time.

    For the rear splash guard, someone mentioned that you only need to put 2 screws (the screws were already on the car). However, the splash guard has 3 holes (like a triangle) and the lower one is the one hard to get to. (directly behind the tire)
  • tsc020tsc020 Member Posts: 8
    For this new software, it seems to lack of 2 important features:
    how do you index to a particular or a range of postings to look up references ?
    How do you print a ranger of postings (more than 20) ? When it gets busy at work, the only way to participate with the interesting discussion is to print them and read them on the bus.
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    The problem with the old (Well Engaged) software was that the version that we were using was no longer being supported by the software company. The server (which resides at that company's office) was not being maintained either. So, if anything broke, it couldn't be fixed. Well Engaged also had many quirks that mostly only the hosts knew about. These quirks were not only annoying, but limited the expansion of Townhall. As such, we had NO CHOICE but to move to a new software platform. FYI, the new forum software (Web Crossing) is used by CNN, NY Times, and a whole lot of other companies; it also won Cnet's builder award for best community software.

    Additional features (such as the jump to a specific post feature) may be activated after we squish the intial bugs. The login/timeout bug, for example, is top priority.

    Thanks for your understanding!
    Drew
    Edmunds.com Townhall co-host
    Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories conferences
  • thirdsuvthirdsuv Member Posts: 209
    Grrrr. Those double space parked cars are usually where
    I'll launch my empty shopping carts to. Ooops, sorry about that.

    How about instaed parking out in the distant and walking your lard a** in!
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